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Thread: kraken x60 + peltiers

  1. #1
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    kraken x60 + peltiers

    Why not put some peltiers in the kraken x60 to make it a closed loop water chiller -- extreme OC for the cheap/lazy masses.

  2. #2
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    Like just like a H100 and others to me. I think with these the pump would hold you back.

  3. #3
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    check out the TEC section for all you ever wanted to know about TECs. there are some very knowlegable guys. they may not check the threads every day, but if you post they should answer eventually
    i7 3930@4.5GHz (EK Supreme HF), GTX690@1.2GHz (Koolance NX-690), 128G 4M + 2x128G 4M raid 0, Silverstone TJ07, Custom Enclosure w/MoRa, 18x GT AP-31, 401X2 dual PMP-400


  4. #4
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    I moved this to the TEC section.

  5. #5
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    A Pelt in one teeny spot on the side of a rad. Only affecting a VERY small part of the waterflow. If you have the pelt on max (most noobs do) the cold side will build ice up till it freezes and clog the rad and it expands goes boom.

    And how will you cool the hot side of the pelt? With a heatsink or another watercooling rad setup? A 100 watt cooling Pelt needs 200+ watts cooling on the hot side.

    Nope.
    All stock for now, no need for more, but it's gonna be soon methinks.
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  6. #6
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    Simple. You put waterblocks on both sides of the pelt. The loop goes through the hot block pre-rad and then goes through the cold block post-rad. The rad can get the water to within 5C of ambient even if it goes in at a really high temp.

  7. #7
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    First, you also need two pumps for cold and hot loop. Second, Pelts are square 40mm to 62mm square and need a block fully cover them. Most waterblocks today are small and round. This means you have to buy x2 Kraken kits. Better off building a kit, it's cheaper. Then you can run off computer PSU but pelt can draw 10a to 20a from 12V line. A dedicated 12V or 13.5v psu is recommended. As mentioned, the cold side builds condensation, especially at idle when there is less heat. It's easier to condensation proof a direct die pelt and single stage VS cold and hot loop. I've done all three and even dunked radiator into dry ice alcohol bath. Setup can survive a few drips and turned off ASAP. but never sitting water.

    Finally, the heat from pelt can be equivalent to entire PC rig, +200W of heat dissappated. A small room can get hot real fast.

  8. #8
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    The loop goes through the hot block pre-rad and then goes through the cold block post-rad.
    i'm pretty sure this would never work. but, i don't know how to explain why so i'll leave that to the experts.
    i7 3930@4.5GHz (EK Supreme HF), GTX690@1.2GHz (Koolance NX-690), 128G 4M + 2x128G 4M raid 0, Silverstone TJ07, Custom Enclosure w/MoRa, 18x GT AP-31, 401X2 dual PMP-400


  9. #9
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    AIO kits do not have the pump flow to properly cool a TEC, plus a TEC does not take the same cooling as a CPU - it's heat is spread across the whole surface, not a central die. You need cross flow, not center impingement like on a waterblock made for a CPU.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Headshot View Post
    Simple. You put waterblocks on both sides of the pelt. The loop goes through the hot block pre-rad and then goes through the cold block post-rad. The rad can get the water to within 5C of ambient even if it goes in at a really high temp.
    You need two separate loops for a TEC chiller - a hot side loop with a rad, and a cold side loop without a rad. Sharing both will just heat the water you just chilled with the heat of the processor PLUS the heat output of the TEC.

  10. #10
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    http://www.overclock.net/t/1298546/h...t-a-chiller/40

    Theres alot of nonsense from people towards the OP in that thread but in theory it can work but there's a few of things to do differently...not much tho...
    Last edited by Elloquin; 08-28-2013 at 03:34 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by chew* View Post
    Nonsense,

    There is no spoon.

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