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Thread: New Koolance CPU-380 Water Blocks!

  1. #26
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    Any single inlet, dual outlet tops in the backburner?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
    Definitely impressive. I don't suppose you have any pictures comparing the internals of both the 370 and the 380? Including the impingement plate.

    I'd also prefer black mounting plate and hardware. Chrome is so 2010.
    370:
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post5123407

    380:
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post5123408

  3. #28
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    Clear top: We do not have plans to offer this. With acetal, you might strip threads if fittings or assembly screws are over-tightened, but the block won't crack. That's not the case with acrylic. Acetal and metal are more robust, but you do lose the transparency option.

    Black bracket: It's a suggestion we've been tossing around, too. We might at least offer the top bracket optionally in black, but that hasn't been decided yet.

    USPS: The processing time is "up to 7 days", but it's usually 1-3. We don't have a daily pickup service with USPS (unlike with UPS), and it takes our shipping person longer to ready the USPS labels and schedule a pickup. We just started offering USPS this year for lighter weight packages, so shipments will become more frequent as we increase the max weight and automate more of the labeling process. We also want to get FedEx into our website options.

    Quote Originally Posted by jogshy View Post
    Why they place the I/O holes too close omg?
    I doubt you could use two 45 degrees 13/19mm compression fittings there...
    As mentioned, our straight 13x19mm compressions fit the CPU-380 just fine. There's still another 1.5mm left in between them.

    Tim

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boogerlad View Post
    Any single inlet, dual outlet tops in the backburner?
    Not at this time. We've worked hard to get as much performance out of the block as possible. Adding another outlet would make it a totally different beast, requiring very different internals and a redesign.

    Tim

  5. #30
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    Koolance: btw .. what do you think of crazy idea to separate looks from performance for future blocks. As in bracket covering whole block but inlets (with standartised inlet/outlet distance for all the blocks (of course allowing biggest of them)), no difficult cutout shape (like four halfrings in 3[6,7]# or one in 380) in bracket or of block core itself. This way any future bracket should fit any block internals, even old (post-380 ) blocks be usable on future sockets without releasing specific parts for specific blocks, or different outwards looks be combinable with any block insides. This will strike out clear top option though. There can be optional brackets with integrated pump tops, or optional brackets with multi inlets/outlets (probably acting like cut inside bracket waterpaths like some T adapter), and again, usable with any (thus upgradable in future) block core.
    Another crazy idea is to release bracket with integrated mini lcd-s for displaying temp & flow and/or leds. If it's separated from block core (thus allowing upgrades), it might be more universal to justify purchase of such higher priced accessory. Hmm, then again it might be designed standard sized & detachable from bracket as well, for even more universality.
    Hmm, thinking even further .. maybe for such universal brackets some adapters below them can be released for them to be mountable upon even older blocks like 360/370 ..
    P.S.
    You can also consider for future blocks about possibility to change bow to optimize block for specific sockets like supremacy does with different thickness shims/jetplates to squeeze out every last performance bit.
    Last edited by Church; 11-05-2012 at 08:07 PM.

  6. #31
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    Another crazy idea is to release bracket with integrated mini lcd-s for displaying temp & flow and/or leds.
    oohhhhh...i like that idea. an integrated temp readout built into the block itself. flow might be difficult since i would expect that it would change the restriction and flow characteristics within the block, but temp should be possible.....
    i7 3930@4.5GHz (EK Supreme HF), GTX690@1.2GHz (Koolance NX-690), 128G 4M + 2x128G 4M raid 0, Silverstone TJ07, Custom Enclosure w/MoRa, 18x GT AP-31, 401X2 dual PMP-400


  7. #32
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    How do i install it on Intel socket 2011?
    Do you screw the threaded posts from above the mobo? (No need for access from behind the mobo). And 4 plastic washers is enough right?
    https://koolance.com/files/products/...0i_d100eng.pdf
    Step 3: "Use the included threaded posts on the motherboard?s back plate for Intel socket LGA 2011."
    There is no installation instructions for LGA 2011 except that sentence.

  8. #33
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    You use the stock backplate that comes on every LGA2011 board. The screws will be m4 threaded screws, likely different than the ones used for the one motherboard types.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
    You use the stock backplate that comes on every LGA2011 board. The screws will be m4 threaded screws, likely different than the ones used for the one motherboard types.
    Ye but i should screw the short threaded size from top right?
    Should i use a wrench when i tighten the screw?

  10. #35
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    Yes thread them from the top. You shouldn't need a wrench.

  11. #36
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    Ok i mounted it now, but i made 2 mistakes.
    I'm more embarrased about the first mistake: i forgot the springs, but i noticed the mistake before i fully tightened the thumb screws.
    The second mistake: it seems like i bottomed out the springs, so apparently i tightened the thumb screws too hard? But i used only a little force so i was surprised when the thumb screws suddenly stopped turning. So i don't really understand how that can bee to tight.

    Did i destroy the CPU block, motherboard, and/or the CPU?

  12. #37
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    Some blocks are designed to bottom out the screws. Is the motherboard warping at all from too much pressure? If so then loosen them. If not then it should be ok.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
    Some blocks are designed to bottom out the screws. Is the motherboard warping at all from too much pressure? If so then loosen them. If not then it should be ok.
    It kinda felt like they are designed to bottom out. But i could be wrong.
    I can't see if the motherboard is warped.
    Have you installed 380I? If yes: you didn't bottom out the springs?

  14. #39
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    Nope. I've never used the 380i.

  15. #40
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    When using the 380i you do not bottom out the thumb nuts. Below is from the instructions included with the block. If the mounting system was designed to bottom out this info would not be necessary.

    DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THUMB NUTS OR DAMAGE TO THE WATER
    BLOCK, PROCESSOR, OR MOTHERBOARD COULD RESULT!

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Praz View Post
    When using the 380i you do not bottom out the thumb nuts. Below is from the instructions included with the block. If the mounting system was designed to bottom out this info would not be necessary.
    That info doesn't help at all because it's impossible to know how tight is too tight.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird_CaD_ View Post
    That info doesn't help at all because it's impossible to know how tight is too tight.
    I apologize that did not answer your questions. Everything you wrote referenced bottoming out the thumb screws not "how tight is too tight". How tight is a matter of feel and comes with experience. Using all the included hardware I adjust the thumb screws until the distance from the top of the thumb screws to the surface of the motherboard is 1.073" for Intel..

  18. #43
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    Black plate for 380.
    Now i can say that this block isn't ugly anymore.

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