Best liquid coolant arround ?!

[Aphellyon]

Anybody know about how long it would take distilled or deionized water to ionize to the point of being "unsafely" conductive in a std loop with copper blocks?

Would it stand to reason that glycols, (such as those in Feser) would slow this up in the same way it's supposed to hinder corrosion?

Of course, I doubt one can get around the dust issue.

@neonatas: Anyway, you're assuming your leaks are harmless... based on what... marketing hype? Really? C'mon dude... so far, your non-conductive argument is pretty week. And, instead of just attempting to google you're way out with a favorable cherry picked test, why don't you actually try to educate yourself on the topic you are so ravenously defending? Critical thinking beats selective thinking every time. Also, hey man, don't sweat the personal attacks. They may not be civil, but they do nothing to detract from any merit your argument may or may not have.

my $.02

[rge]

Anybody know about how long it would take distilled or deionized water to ionize to the point of being "unsafely" conductive in a std loop with copper blocks?

Would it stand to reason that glycols, (such as those in Feser) would slow this up in the same way it's supposed to hinder corrosion?

Of course, I doubt one can get around the dust issue.

I will give you my biased opinion on "non-conductive" fluids from my experience and may answer your question as to whether glycols help keep non-conductive fluids from damaging components.

2 years ago, I decided on 8800 watercooled video card, but no WB's were currently in stock... then bought EGVA black pearl 8800 ultra when it came out, then realized it was an aluminum block, so I would be mixing metals.

So I ran 85% distilled water, 15% pentosin (glycol). I was caught up in the non-conductive issue, hence bought double distilled water at chemical supply company that listed conductivity less than what feser 1 currently lists.

After 1 month, I come home to the smell of burned electronics, and my computer was off. I "intelligently" turn on my computer and see a huge orange glow and smoke billing out, so yank plug out. After posting this in evga forum in 2007, I first thought it was not a leak b/c could not see wet spots and t-line was not low, but after someone pointed the residue out on my pic of my 8800 ultra, I went back and ran pump through WB outside computer and sure enough...slow drip from seal in WB. I just rmaed it, since the card comes preinstalled wb and all. Here is pic I posted in that forum.


Maybe pure distilled never in a loop that leaked on a brand new component where everything is very clean wont short anything.

But after normal use, and even though my shorted 8800 looked clean from dust to naked eye, as I have good dust filters, I dont live in a "factory grade clean" environment. I dont know if water was no longer conductive, though after 1 month have a hard time with water being issue. More likely slow leak dissolved something on card then shorted it.

I could drive 15 mins to chemical supply company and buy double distilled, or 1 min to grocery store and buy distilled. I will let you guess how likely I am to waste that 14 mins of my time.

[millertime359]

Wow, that really sucked.

At least the video card didn't take anything else with it.

[rge]

yeah, I was lucky with it being small slow leak, though wife had another opinion about my wcing after that

Never was to happy with that alum block and having to use that much glycol, but had to hand it to evga, had a new card installed in a few days. Just glad I am finally rid of it, will sometimes use 1-2% pentosin for color or biocide, but dont like hit from using more, and prefer having the option to use no glycol.

[Aphellyon]

Oh man, sorry for your loss. Great pic though.

Yea, gurus on another forum were debating this same issue a while back... they were claiming, er, non non-conductivity within days if I remember correctly. I was just wondering if there were solid numbers on this somewhere... although your scenario would suggest well under a month. I suppose the info may be in the SD/Feser horror thread here... (I haven't read all the way through it yet)....

[millertime359]

yeah, I was lucky with it being small slow leak, though wife had another opinion about my wcing after that

Yea, I bet you got an earful after that.

Oh man, sorry for your loss. Great pic though.

Yea, gurus on another forum were debating this same issue a while back... they were claiming, er, non non-conductivity within days if I remember correctly. I was just wondering if there were solid numbers on this somewhere... although your scenario would suggest well under a month. I suppose the info may be in the SD/Feser horror thread here... (I haven't read all the way through it yet)....

IIRC correctly, there wasn't much talk about conductivity in SD's thread. It was more about the dye breaking apart in the loop. I would imagine if you could keep your case 100% dust free (clean room), it would probably be ok for a while.

No matter what you use, you still need to take all the necessary precautions. Inspect all blocks when you get them, take your time installing and make certain everything is properly tightened, leak test it properly, and inspect your case from time to time.

[Waterlogged]

Here's what PC Ice did to a brand new board when I decided to Prime it overnight. So much for "non-conductive".

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...9&postcount=61
(There are supposed to be 2 images there but Imageshack is being a pain ATM, it might show up later )

[Aphellyon]

Yea, I bet you got an earful after that.

One sympathizes.

IIRC correctly, there wasn't much talk about conductivity in SD's thread. It was more about the dye breaking apart in the loop. I would imagine if you could keep your case 100% dust free (clean room), it would probably be ok for a while.

Yea, I figured dust might have been less of an issue if it was a full cover block. But I guess my point is kind of moot anyway... when water hits the tin/lead/steel trifecta of soldered components it's probably a safe bet conductivity will quickly follow.

[Stellarex]

The non-conductive fluids become conductive when they have been in contact with copper and silver (they take the copper and silver ions and purify themselves with it so they become copper or silver based) thus non-conductive stuff is crap. Computer parts + any kind of liquid is a bad bad bad combination. Thats why you keep it in tubing and reservoirs

[NaeKuh]

Looking around on that site I found earlier, i came across this page: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/sp...ids-d_151.html

It's says Ammonia has as higher Specific Heat Capacity,

1. pure ammonia (Not talking about a mix like windex) is illegal to buy without license in the US, because concentrated ammonia will knock you out in less then 5 seconds after u inhaled it.

2. our tubing is pourous so you will get evap of ammonia, and you will leak out gas.

3. meh.. stay away from ammonia unless ur doing biological experiments or inorganic chem to break Oxides up.

Here, for 3/8", I have a store that has in stock the following brands :

- MASTERKLEER
- FESER
- TYGON (R3603)

Any preferences from you guys on one of those brands ?

We don't have here the Primochill brand.

Primochill > Fesser > Tygon > Mastkleer... however masterkleer is less then half the other prices.

[Aphellyon]

The non-conductive fluids become conductive when they have been in contact with copper and silver (they take the copper and silver ions and purify themselves with it so they become copper or silver based) thus non-conductive stuff is crap. Computer parts + any kind of liquid is a bad bad bad combination. Thats why you keep it in tubing and reservoirs

Yes yes, we know. The question is how long does that take... seconds, hours, days, weeks?

[Stellarex]

Yes yes, we know. The question is how long does that take... seconds, hours, days, weeks?

Instantly...

Look at this poor HD4850... This is Feser 1 non-conductive cooling fluid that didnt even get in the loop, it leaked onto the back of the GPU (without me noticing) and this is what it did... I guess once it hit the back of the PCB and came in contact with the solder on the back of the card, it just went out in a blaze of glory. As soon as the computer was turned on the card instantly artifacted and turned off.

[Aphellyon]

Wow...

Any luck getting it replaced?

[Stellarex]

Wow...

Any luck getting it replaced?

Its a visiontek card.....so no

[AndrewZorn]

this thread is hi-larious. cheapest... best... IT CANNOT BE!

[jVIDIA]

...
Primochill > Fesser > Tygon > Mastkleer... however masterkleer is less then half the other prices.

PrimoFlex Pro LRT is the best tube in your opinion, right?

Someone said that it doesn't get the water "cloudy" ... is this true ?

I'm thinking on going to the PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black or Clear Tubing.

Is there some vulnerability knowned in the Black tube ?

Thanks,
J

[millertime359]

PrimoFlex Pro LRT is the best tube in your opinion, right?

Someone said that it doesn't get the water "cloudy" ... is this true ?

I'm thinking on going to the PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black or Clear Tubing.

Is there some vulnerability knowned in the Black tube ?

Thanks,
J

I like my Primochill PRO LRT Black. I have had it in for almost a month now and distilled water is still clear. I haven't ever heard of it making the water cloudy though.

I would just get the black.

[jVIDIA]

Do you have any pictures from your rig with the black Primochill tube ?

[millertime359]

Do you have any pictures from your rig with the black Primochill tube ?

Click on the link in my sig.

[Sadasius]

I took out a 3870X2 a couple weeks ago. It was not a leak that did it as it was my stupid fault. Had the system partially disassembled and leaked water on the video card and mobo. Thought I got it all nice and dry after a few hours with a hair dryer on medium...Nope! The ATI died a silent death. It simply did not bother to turn on. That's why CPU-Z in my sig shows a 7600 GS. That's my tester card. Thankfully my motherboard lived to tell the tale.

I find the video cards have such small circuitry that it is easy for any kind of moisture to hide in the so-small places. I don't think it mattered what liquid fell on it. I do wonder however if clear nail polish would or could have helped in preventing the water from getting under the circuits.

[millertime359]

I find the video cards have such small circuitry that it is easy for any kind of moisture to hide in the so-small places. I don't think it mattered what liquid fell on it. I do wonder however if clear nail polish would or could have helped in preventing the water from getting under the circuits.

That's an idea. I guess as long as it drys completely. I would also be worried about it holding in excess heat.

[d50man]

towel blockade while leak testing it will say you money.
i always used distilled walmart water

[Sadasius]

I use distilled. From Shopper's Drug Mart only a block away from my house. Cost about $2 for 4 litres. However it did give an excuse to upgrade. I have the money right now for a 5870X2 when it comes out. Heck I may just get 2 of them this time around.

[xREDMAN]

am i screwed? i got a feser one uv red coolant

[Sadasius]

am i screwed? i got a feser one uv red coolant

OMG You got the UV red?!? That stuff will eat through your tubes and rape your mother...... Just joking! Once you see it goes clear in your loop, you have to take your loop apart and clean out your blocks and rad. It's a messy job!