then it is the D5
Thank you creidiki very much for ur help
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then it is the D5
Thank you creidiki very much for ur help
so other than the midplate difference and top plate being nickel plated brass or delrin, is there any other difference between the MP-05 SP LE or Pro LE? Is there a reason you'd want delrin over the brass or vice versa? I'm looking at picking up one of the MP-05 LE's, but not sure if one is more advantageous than the other. I realize everyone likes the #3 midplate and that would be my choice as well, but I'd still get the delrin midplate kit regardless.Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
No. Well, brass is heavyer so I suppose it puts more stress on your mobo or die but its still a heck of a lot better than a 600g airsink lol.
in gas stations they seel the green ( sometimes it is blue ) water made specially to use in cars' radiater which is known to have better heat transfer rate than water + stop rust ( i know it is useless for computer's w/cing ) and has higher boiling point
is using tihs water instead of distilled water will be better or atleast won't give worse performance since it looks more nice that normal transperant water
and won't it harm the pump in anyway
no one have any info about teh green water used in the car's Rad ?
Accoding to whom? It just sounds like a standard antifreeze+water premix. Which would lower the heat capacity of the water and raise the viscosity (if it is an ethelyne glycol based soloution) and thus lower it's cooling performance. (ever so slightly though)Quote:
Originally Posted by SaFrOuT
I'd bet money you wouldn't notice the difference cooling wise.Quote:
is using tihs water instead of distilled water will be better or atleast won't give worse performance since it looks more nice that normal transperant water
Pump will be fine.Quote:
and won't it harm the pump in anyway
thanks for the info
cause here in Egypt u can't get at all a di-ionized water + finding a REALLY distilled is very very hard and in the end it won't be as distilled as u imagine
and i forgot to order the HydrX with my order from Petras and it will cost me around 40$ to order it by itself
so i am searching for the best solution for me now
this coolant in the gas station has a label on it saying that it is made of Glycol G30 and there is another verison with G34 , does this make any sense ?
also due to our hot wether antifreeze and water wetter is not available any where
You don't have distilled/demineralised/deionised water at your supermarkets? Have you looked at a mechanics too?
The coolant will be fine BTW.
just distilled will be fine...
demineralised/deionised is a dream
and i don't trust the distilled water which si sold in the gas stations at all
all i can use is this untrusted distilled water or the coolants sold there to be used in Car's rad
ur not near a supermarket.... water such as alhambra or arrowhead (if its exported to egypt lol)
no it is not
i did my homework and searched with ZERO results
i know someone who work in the swimming pool area, i will ask him what do they use to avoid algue
Usually people just add drops of iodine to prevent algae.Quote:
Originally Posted by SaFrOuT
yah, pool people use chlorine (almost bleach)
so iodine is what everyone recommends to me
i foudn the perfect solutiong, here in EGypt they sell distilled water for medicine stuff in the pharmacy, so i think i will use it
but what is that iodine ?? is it something related to pools ? like chlorine
and won't it break or damage the Cu or plastic in the loop ?
I dont wanna open new thread so i'll ask here.
I ordered some WC-stuff.. PA120.3 MP-05 PRO LE and DangerDen Maze 4 Standard Profile.. But the shop accidentally shipped me the Low Profile Maze 4. And now they aren't no more stocking that SP model of it for some reason. So i'll asked them to ship me that MP-1 GPU-block.
But since both MP-05 PRO LE and MP-1 are quite restrictive I would like to know if my pump (Laing D5) would be able to handle that restriction.. Or should I use that Maze 4 LP that I already got and shave off a bit from the ramsinks so they would fit nicely?
the MAze4 LP has the same performance AFAIK as the SP one,so yes keep it and start installing them, beside don't forget to show us some pic of ur setup when u finish it
No distilled water?
What water do you guys use to iron your clothes then?
Hello and GREAT guide.
I'm just getting into WC and looking for a cpu block. I searched for the Swiftech MCW6002/6000 but they seem impossible to find. I was also looking for an all copper but that is hard to find too. What's a good block that can be "universal"? If that is not possible than what is the "next" best thing? Really don't want to go over high $50's. from reading it seems that pure copper is best way to go.
I have a micro case
Swiftech MCP350 pump
775 socket
Live in US
I'm getting the Swiftech h20-120 and looking for a different h2o Block. It comes with the apogee but looking for something "better" in the same price range or high $50's.
Should I just stay with the Apogee?
thanks
Is clearflex tubing usable? Because I'm rebuilding my setup and Tygon is very, very expensive here in Sweden.
Yes. it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Viktor
Thanks Safrout... :)
Anyone else an opinion???
I read the sticky and it doesn't seem to give the Danger dens such a good "rating".
Storm is too much (plus I don't hink the pump can handle) and the Swifties 600x impossible to find. Danger Den seem to be okay but for price and reading stickies seems that one can do better.
I have the Swiftech h20-120 kit coming and the Apogee will probably stay in New box.
I have a Qpack with an ATX board
Swiftech MCP350 pump
For 775 socket
why in d 1st page..is Apogee so bad compare to others??
im totally new to the water cooling relam and i've been doing some reading on this.
1. kits can be a pain when wanting to upgrade?
2. im looking for the best performance, period. what should i be looking for in pumps, rads, CPU blocks, and GPU blocks (im running SLi so thats an issue with space between the #1 and #2 card)