Japanese Racecar Radiator cooled SLI Setup

Red Sky, that website is amazing. Most of the fans are $4

They have a huge selection. I was looking at one of them. 2.4 Watts and 60cfm at 30dbl.

Lots of fans there comparable to the Late yoons. If I cannot find the 140mm's. I would likely buy from there.

I'm thinking the 38mm ones are a good choice. Maybe one of the 80cfm ones which I can tone down with a controller.

I'm using 12, so Power comsumption can get quite high. So far the Late yoons use like 3 Watts, thus 36 Watts total. Some of those deltas use a lot less.

I have to open the spec sheet for every product though, its a pain. Looking for the best Watt/CFM ration.'
http://www.excesssolutions.com/mas_a...ull/ES2909.jpg

Mmmm.. that particular Delta is .42A (5.04W)...

there is ythis one site that sells delta AFB1212VHE's for $1.50 a peice... you have to buy 27 tho

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Looking for the best Watt/CFM ration.'

---

When cooling a rad or heatsink(as opposed to moving air in the case) you want the highest static pressur/wattage rating.

Static pressure is far more important than CFM in this case.

Delta does make great fans for this, but they also make fans for low pressure/high CFM applications.

You want one designed for high pressure/low cfm + low noise. This will yield better cooling results per the same db.

which fans have the best static pressure/cfm to noise ratio?

38mm fans have better static pressure than 25mm, apparently... In reality it depends more on blade design than armature thickness, but its a better rule of thumb than many in the "computer enthusiast" world...

Very few reputable manufacturers (delta, yate loon, panasonis, sanyo) release static pressure figures for their fans though, unless you go ask them for the PDF.

Again apparently, Yates are supposed to have good pressure for low-flow 25mm fans.

Nice job Zen keep the pics coming :)

Thanks for Info mtl and Crediki

So 38mm has higher startic pressure and blade design is important. How does AFB1212VHE look in terms of fan blade in relation to static pressure (sory, this is probably a tough question, no clue how to judge blades)
http://www.excesssolutions.com/mas_a...ull/ES3875.jpg



Red Sky, Wheres that link for the $1.50 for 27. That sounds like a great deal. :)

From the Specs of AFB1212VHE They run at .6amp for 129CFM at 48dbl. This seems like an ideal fan. With such a powerful fan, I have a wide RAnge for tuning it to acceptable cfm/noise levels. And by using a PWM, when I tune down it power is conserved so it won't use full wattage at lower cfm levels.

But it will be FUN to run 16 of those on full blast for a minnute.:D

If you can't find it, here's a site that has them for $2.00 each, looks like it's tailed too

Be careful not to get them too powerful.

I have an FFB1212EHE, and its much louder @ 5v than all my computer put together, and thats counting not the hellish motor noise + motor tick like a miniature jackhammer.

WC Annihilus, thanks for the link

Motor noise, I never thought of that.

Wondering if AFB1212VHE will be loud motor when tuned to around 50cfm.

The AFB1212LE 2.2 watts 84cfm 34dbl. is also not bad, considering realistically 84cfm is the maximum one can use on this radiator without being noisy.

Its hard to pass that deal for $1.50 or 2$ though :p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

WC Annihilus, thanks for the link

Motor noise, I never thought of that.

Wondering if AFB1212VHE will be loud motor when tuned to around 50cfm.

The AFB1212LE 2.2 watts 84cfm 34dbl. is also not bad, considering realistically 84cfm is the maximum one can use on this radiator without being noisy.

Its hard to pass that deal for $1.50 or 2$ though :p

---

It appears that the AFB1212VHE would be the best choice for you on that site.

Thats a good price for Delta's if you plan on buying from there. Anybody know about ther reputability?

Now you got me thinking of re-faning my case, but I think the AFB1212SHE is what I want. :D

Just got price quote from JMAG, this is what it has come down to
http://www.gindi.de/ebaypics/D12SL-12yateloon4.jpghttp://shop.erfrier.net/pics/thumbs/itfan32.jpg

The Yoon or the Delta. Both more or less same price. $50 from Jmag or $52 from online store for Deltas

Leaning toward the Late Yoons are the performance is well known and verified by people on Xs
Delta's benefits are 38mm thickness, and higher max cfm/pressure than the Lates though will never use it at that level.

hard decision, leaning towards Lates
but would be nice to try something new..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Just got price quote from JMAG, this is what it has come down to
http://www.gindi.de/ebaypics/D12SL-12yateloon4.jpghttp://shop.erfrier.net/pics/thumbs/itfan32.jpg

The Yoon or the Delta. Both more or less same price. $50 from Jmag or $52 from online store for Deltas

Leaning toward the Late Yoons are the performance is well known and verified by people on Xs
Delta's benefits are 38mm thickness, and higher max cfm/pressure than the Lates though will never use it at that level.

hard decision, leaning towards Lates
but would be nice to try something new..

---

*Yate Loon

its for the car radiator right? and your having 10 fans? vel then i dont think it will matter. take whatever is the most silentm cause it will be overkill anyway!:)

gee what a luxury problem!

Yeah, i reckon those yates in push-pull will be more than enough @5v with all that fin area. I mean, actual surface area of that rad is like the size of my living room (yes its small :P).

Even though the airflow through the rad iwll be next to 0, the yates would be the choice i would go with. Even 16 yates at 12v would be loud.. 7v would be perfect. TBH, i put my ear up to one at 7v and could barely hear it except for a little bit of noise from the movement of the air.

Lates it is. Each fan will cover an area the size of PA160, meaning 8 fans on each side.

Now for the shroud
I'm thinking Cheap Bendable Aluminum sheet metal which I can cut with scizors can carry the weight for these fans.

Now all I have to do is make it :)

^^change of mind when about to get 20 lates.

though the lates were not a bad price, I went with the Deltas. Someone at OC forums uses AFB1212VHE and said has low noise at 5V, and no ticking.

$2 per fan price to me is well worth it.

Purchased 25 of them for US$54.
we'll see how well they perform~.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

^^change of mind when about to get 20 lates.

though the lates were not a bad price, I went with the Deltas. Someone at OC forums uses AFB1212VHE and said has low noise at 5V, and no ticking.

$2 per fan price to me is well worth it.

Purchased 25 of them for US$54.
we'll see how well they perform~.

---

YATE LOON!!!!!!!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Theo404

YATE LOON!!!!!!!!!

---

Dude... it's pretty obvious he knows... He just feels like abbr... nothing wrong with it...

@Zenj Nice man, you can tell us how good the company is ;) Can't wait for results :)

Lol, 25 fans... what'cho gonna do with the spares?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WC Annihilus

@Zenj Nice man, you can tell us how good the company is ;) Can't wait for results :)

---

I'm waiting for this as well.

$2 a pop for Deltas simply cannot be beat. The cheapest it can be fount on eBay is 3.50 and most reputable dealers sell it for around $10.

@Zenjirou - please post a "reseller review" when you get these. IE - how were they packaged, do they come with tails and connectors attached, how long did shipping/processing take, etc

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Recently it is quite warm wether here. At night its not much cooler. (South California), so little use of keeping rad outside. I will put it outside though, because nights may be cold (but recently not been cold)
http://www.surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/uprightfront.jpghttp://www.surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/upright.jpg




Stock Speed Prime95 Load
http://www.surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/stocktemp.jpg

Quake 4 Load at 2.7Ghz with GPUs at 511/1.3
http://www.surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/quake4temps.jpg

---

what kind of psu are u using that gives that kinda instability on just about every rail?

...its onboard sensors. if youre going to rate your psu by what your mobo tells you... lol

hey,
a few pics of my progress so far. :)
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...linalihole.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...tempcooler.jpg Temporary Radiator and D5 in a box until Koyo is ready
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/tatsurev2/mp01.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/tatsurev2/mp05.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...v2/g71mp01.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/tatsurev2/mobo1.jpg No Chipset Block this time
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...2/deltabox.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...v2/deltas1.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...v2/deltas2.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...tasradpump.jpg

The Deltas blow ~130 Cfms. The noise is slightly more than a Sanyo Denki 109R1212H1011, so its bareable. Looking for PWM to buy.

I dont think you have enough fans for that radiator.:p:

Awesome box of fans :woot:

Hecka tight! Now we know that site works and is reliable! (I think). How long did it take for them to ship? How much did shipping cost? Anyways, looking very nice! :clap: :D

I like this little thing:
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...linalihole.jpg

Very stylish.

-k0nsl

Just found this thread, VERY impressive!
Amazing stuff :) Makes me wan´t to go H2O :p:

Except fot the fact that CPUs and GPUs seem to start getting cooler again, as they are going from 120nm -> 90 -> 65nm and so on.
But they still need Active FAN cooling, so this could be a VERY silent cooling solution if one would have it passive.

My Intel 550 D0 stepping (115W stock) is a killer in temps, but I will be going to a Conroe 65W in a few month.
I suppose that would reduce the idel/load temps alot :D

But if I get some money... wich I hope (via stock market :cool:), could you post all your components for the little ignorant man, me :confused:

Why not start WC cooling with style, if I get the money :)

P.s.: Don´t suppose your much for LAN gaming :D (Me neither).

glad u like um... sweet deal too...

ps: ur welcome

pss: skuliaxe... stock market isnt a good way to make money unless u are truly dedicated and do tons of research... i made 2G of google stocks... but i lost 500 off of others... real estate is way better lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ReD.SkY

pss: skuliaxe... stock market isnt a good way to make money unless u are truly dedicated and do tons of research... i made 2G of google stocks... but i lost 500 off of others... real estate is way better lol

---

In short, i´m not really on the stock matket... PM so I won´t go off topic ;)

THank you Annihilus and Redsky for the link

I now have 25 of these at $2 each. What to do with so many...

I do not know what shipping cost was, it was not on my invoice for some reason (free maybe?)

It took 1/2 week to arrive. They all look top quality.

I tested some out earlier. I pointed two of them towards my face. It feels like you are sticking your head out of the window while going on freeway :D

http://www.surfinchemical.com/Zenjir...10mem282sp.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...superpi305.jpg
http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...memtest282.jpg

any pictures of them on the radiator?

Not yet, as the hardest part awaits

I to make a shroud. Or ask someone to make one for me. I wonder if Weapon can make one.

Controlling the fans might be a problem. I need to find a good PWM, or some way to Undervolt the fans. I don't want to use variable resistor, as with that method power is not conserved. If use PWM, not sure this specific fan's tolerance to PWMs. Motor might make ticking sound. If anyone knows a good PWM to use or some other way to use 5V from the PSU, ideas appreciated :)

Sure, just hook them up to the 5v line - on 4-pin Molex, Yellow = 12v and Red = 5v. You can also do 7v like that, use 5v as your negative and 12v as your positive.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by creidiki

Sure, just hook them up to the 5v line - on 4-pin Molex, Yellow = 12v and Red = 5v. You can also do 7v like that, use 5v as your negative and 12v as your positive.

---

Some fans won´t power ON @ 5v.
Here is a list of Delta fans and theyr Operating Voltage.
Just check that first.

7V solution is fine, but those fans would take up a whole lot of Molex connectors.

You should check this out:
SUNBEAM THETA TP-101, Controlls 8 fans.
If your are interested in this solution,
A) Check your fans rated Watts (also in first link).
B) You can have 10W on each 8 Channels on that fan controller, so IF your fans are under 5W then you could have 16 fans on one of these Fan Controllers :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Not yet, as the hardest part awaits

I to make a shroud. Or ask someone to make one for me. I wonder if Weapon can make one.

Controlling the fans might be a problem. I need to find a good PWM, or some way to Undervolt the fans. I don't want to use variable resistor, as with that method power is not conserved. If use PWM, not sure this specific fan's tolerance to PWMs. Motor might make ticking sound. If anyone knows a good PWM to use or some other way to use 5V from the PSU, ideas appreciated :)

---

cardboard + paint is your friend :)

Don't have camera, but MD30 just arrived :)

Hoping to test it out on weekend. Its a tad fatter than MD20.

Looks like a beastly pump:)

Also have asked Thrilla to make the shroud for this.

Anyone know of any good PWMs that can take lots of amps (10+)

10 amps.. none in the PC buisness.

if you dont want to adjust the voltage, but rather have a set lower voltage, you can use a resistor... just run the fans in parallel (i think its parallel anyway) and you can use one resistor.. or a pentiometer...

An m-Cubed T-Balancer miniNG will do 100W in PWM mode...

What about using a heator core or a condensor as a radiator, instead of a radiator?

http://i4.ebayimg.com/03/i/06/e9/e4/ff_1.JPG

http://i13.ebayimg.com/03/i/06/fd/c7/5a_12.JPG

Like that one, let's say?

hahahah...make a SUPER cardboard shroud!

Zen, get back to work! :slapass: :slapass: :slapass: :slapass: :slapass:























:D

just use this to power and control the voltage of all the fans
10amp at 2-15v with a 12 amp peak rating.
Lee

http://www.tessco.com/products/displ...14&eventPage=1

how many fans you got there? :eek:

he has 25 of them (we talk alot on aim) lol

What in the name of all thats holy possessed you to want to use that many deltas on your radiator. your ears never did anything to hurt you

why not a undervolted car fan

just get a seperate pc psu for powering the fans, make a switch to select the voltage you want

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mindwreck

What in the name of all thats holy possessed you to want to use that many deltas on your radiator. your ears never did anything to hurt you

why not a undervolted car fan

---

hey mindwreck,

I've spent a month or so looking for car radiator fans. There were a couple of problems. Although 12V, they take many amps to start up. I would need seperate power supply as well as a DC PWM kit which I would have to solder myself. I was very close to going that path, buying a 100W Dc pwm and toyota Radiator Fan. But I would have to make a shroud with very large distance from fins, thus making big and bulky.

Also this rad requires very very little airflow to cool the water to ambient, thus 120mm's at silence are more than enough.

Shroud is possibly going to be made by Thrilla out of Aluminum. If not, then by me out of thin sheet metal. He is also making Tubing Pass through Piece which fits in rear 80mm fan, seperating tubing inside case from outgoing from case.

I have purchased that new Swiftech Chipset Block (forgot name) to add to this system.

On positive note, my cpu is burning in and is slowly reaching 3.2ghz, at 3.15 currently. Ram is stable at 300 2.5-3-3-8 :) Gpu at 701mhz (memory not oc'd yet)

oy zen, get on msn or aim lol

gotta tell u something / ask u something

I would just wire all the fans up in serries. connection the red tail to the black tail of each fan thn hook it upto a pot on the 12V line. sould work well if im not mistaken.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LvMike

I would just wire all the fans up in serries. connection the red tail to the black tail of each fan thn hook it upto a pot on the 12V line. sould work well if im not mistaken.

---

I hope your either joking or not paying attention. All fans in SERIES?!?

This would result in like half a volt getting to each fan. They wouldn't even start up.

Put them in parrallel, run them at or slightly below their rated voltage. Too low is bad. Higher than rated is bad.:fact:

you could combine parallel and series!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by eXa

you could combine parallel and series!

---

With this many fans, thats quite possible. Save the $$$ over a fanbus.

Plus a potentiometer setup for that would either have to be DIY or $$$.

Most PC style fanbuses only support <20W per channel.

thanks guys.

series or parallel. 0.0
or does it not matter?
I think both are same except in series if one fan is dead, all are not receive power.

I plant do exactly that, connect them up and have the wire go through small opening in the shrourd and connect it to the tubing which flollows into the Rear of the Case.

I just need to find a Pot or PWM /Fan controller capable of so much current. I like those which have rear PCI slot external knob because using drive bay controler will not look tidy :p, so Can keep it fixd at a low speed in rear of case.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

thanks guys.

series or parallel. 0.0
or does it not matter?
I think both are same except in series if one fan is dead, all are not receive power.

I plant do exactly that, connect them up and have the wire go through small opening in the shrourd and connect it to the tubing which flollows into the Rear of the Case.

I just need to find a Pot or PWM /Fan controller capable of so much current. I like those which have rear PCI slot external knob because using drive bay controler will not look tidy :p, so Can keep it fixd at a low speed in rear of case.

---

A quick lesson in basic electronics:

let n be the number of devices you are to apply power to
let all n's have the same resistance
let Vt equal the total voltage of system, this would be your PSU or 12V going in
let Vn equal the voltage experienced by the devices n

IN SERIES: Vn = Vt / n
So the total voltage divided by the number of fans. 12 fans in series, each one would only get 1V and would not start.

In Parrallel Vn = Vt
All devices get the same voltage, each drawing the same amperage.


This applies ONLY if n are all the same.

For your fans, the suggestion was made that you can combine the set in series and parallel giving you a voltage lower than 12 but high enough to start the fan. Somewhere in the 7v to 10v range.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

its same noise level as the other two iwaki md20's I have. I know for sure the 50z is quieter. The iwaki should make a low pitched Humm sound. Is it very very loud? (i hope its not insainly lound , meaning sometimes wrong with it...:(



BTW- After much debatorizing, I've decided on using (don't laugh :p ) 12 120mm Fans for my Radiator.

reason I decided on this is

1) Using 12" Fan would have an enormously large dead spot in the middle . To remedy this the fan would have to be quite far away from the fins, thus the shroud would be long and bulky.

2) The radiator is Rectangle and in addition to the dead spot large portions of the radiator would be without direct fannage, unless I used TWO 12" fans side by side

3) Using 12 120mm's allows fannage across the entire surface area as fans are in every section of the radiator

4) Automobile Radiator Fans would require both a seperate Means PSU, as well as a 12V DC motor PWN.

5) Its reasy to make a shroud for 120mm's; making one for Table top fan I previously used would require strange mounting.


I'm only scared of noise, but as I found out earlier, very little airflow was needed to maximize the radiators cooling capability for the heat load I applied.

The FPI is very large, probably close to the 17.5 of BI series. Its thickness is in between a BIP and BIX.

I was thinking 6 on one side 6 on the other in push and pull configuration. If not, other option is 10 fans on one side.

Just have to look for a good 120mm which is cheap (buing 10+)

---

check out allelectronics.com, they have some 6.75" fans. you could use 4 of them and have them drawing air through the rad. give about 10-15" of spacing and you would feel that air is being pulled through the fins over the entire surface area.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slicey

check out allelectronics.com, they have some 6.75" fans. you could use 4 of them and have them drawing air through the rad. give about 10-15" of spacing and you would feel that air is being pulled through the fins over the entire surface area.

---

he's already got his fans. Just needs to mount them and get/build a shroud.

@zen - lets see them mounted! Use zip ties if you haven't got a shroud yet. Its ghetto but it will work for testing/benching

thanks for the link slicey
http://www.allelectronics.com/images...ull/CF-244.jpg

These would be perfect, being only 200cfm's they would be silent. too bad they are 24V fans.

I think I'im getting impatient :p
I'm going to remove the temporary cooling box and connect the koyo as it is right now and use huge fan with cardboard shroud until real should is made.
I do knot know if changing the radiator can help overclocks, as hardware fails/passes in superPI within a few seconds, too fast for water too heat up. Eitherway Overclcoks seem to be at its maximum at 3.15 on opty 146 and 703Mhz on 7900Gtx

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

just get a 24v psu while ur there

---

Thanks KaptCrunch

But I cannot change fans now since already purchased. that Powersupply is battery charger and has not enough amps. If I were to use 5-10 24V fans, a means powersupply would be necesary.

Do the shroud already, ya lazy bum :p:

I wanna see "Zenjirou's Wall Of Fans™" ^_^

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by creidiki

Do the shroud already, ya lazy bum :p:

I wanna see "Zenjirou's Wall Of Fans™" ^_^

---

Only problem with getting a shroud is the fact he can't find most people that can make it...

Cardboard ftw! ;)

http://surfinchemical.com/Zenjirou/t...v2/radfan1.jpg
It will do.. for now :p

You win: 15 GhettoPoints™

Nice shroud.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by creidiki

You win: 15 GhettoPoints™

---

agreed, lol! :slapass:

at least he has a shroud now!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

thanks for the link slicey
http://www.allelectronics.com/images...ull/CF-244.jpg

These would be perfect, being only 200cfm's they would be silent. too bad they are 24V fans.

---

I have one of these fans, they work well @12V. I used it with my old setup using an A/C evaporator. You'll probably want some mounting cushions as the large motor creates a pulsing vibration, almost a ticking.

I repeat the best powersupply option is one of these they are great completly silent and can handle the current and vary the voltage. they are also small and fairly inexpensive.

The VS12 is rated to 12 amps at 2-15 volts and cost $94.00

The VS20 is rated to 20 amps at 2-15 volts and cost $116.00

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lross78550

I repeat the best powersupply option is one of these they are great completly silent and can handle the current and vary the voltage. they are also small and fairly inexpensive.

The VS12 is rated to 12 amps at 2-15 volts and cost $94.00

The VS20 is rated to 20 amps at 2-15 volts and cost $116.00

---

Maybe it's just the picture but that psu looks like it's at least four times as big as a regular psu? And 20 A for 116$ sounds kinda expensive to me!

http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/4...s9400gr9qn.jpg
I brought my Maas SPS-9400 3-15.4V 40A, used for under $100, it's small enough to fit in front of my regular PSU in the lower area of my P180 (with some minor modifications.)

That is a switching power supply. I prefer linear power supplies. they both have advantages and disadvantages. as you have noticed one of the advantage of a switching power supply is size and weight also efficiency.
More on this topic can be found here

http://web.indstate.edu/ect/ECT680/ECT680New/Fall%2004%20680%20transactions/Jean%20Niyikora.pdf#search='difference%20between%2 0linear%20and%20switching%20power%20supply'

Lee

Thanks guys,
I'm gonna test out running the fans in daisy chainged and connected to Fan controller to my reguluar PC powersupply. if that works well, then i'l use that. I hope it works so that I do not have to buy and find room to place another psu in my system. I'm getting a Controller which supports 14amps on fryday, so I'l test that out this weeknd

Serious problem with my choice of fans. I feel kind of stupid now that I have these. These fans are perefect except for one thing. When using only a couple of these its no problem, but with many of them it adds up. The power usage of these fans is around 11 Watts at 12V, they consume .9Amps each when at 130cfm

If I run these at 5v, they will still eat 5W each, thus if I use 16 of them I will be consuming 80W of power!


In contrast, if I used Late yoons at 5V, my total power usage would be
24W of Power


I overlooked this; I'll have to thest with multimeter its wattage at silent levels. I really hope they consume around 2 Watts each, otherwise using these fans will consume more power than its worth

Here comes the "I told you So's"

I told you so! ^_^

i've seen people with undervolted radiator fans, i think one person over in the chilled liquid cooling section ran one off 5v from an old PSU and was near silent, the other option would be to get one of those 20" box fans for $10 and make a cardboard shroud

Owner of a fan company told me that PWM's are bad for these type of fans, and will have ticking noise and shortens life of motor.

He also explained how most Controllers just use resistors/POTS to lower speed of fan, and udervolting does not conserve power, because takes more current to maintain rpms at the lower speed


No clue how much truth is in that, but anyways, just ordered Lates from J-mag.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Owner of a fan company told me that PWM's are bad for these type of fans, and will have ticking noise and shortens life of motor.

He also explained how most Controllers just use resistors/POTS to lower speed of fan, and udervolting does not conserve power, because takes more current to maintain rpms at the lower speed


No clue how much truth is in that, but anyways, just ordered Lates from J-mag.

---

Interesting news. But, don't you mean "Yates"? ;)

Late Yoons or Yate Loons.....

DAMN DISLEXIC PEOPLE!!!



:) jk

have you ever thought of using a floor fan for that car rad?
http://www.xs4all.nl/~eikelman/proje...ng/phase2b.jpg

Why not use a AC unit?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by t1no

Why not use a AC unit?

---

Because this is xTreme h20 cooling. Using mechanical energy only to move air and liquid in such ways to cool your pc as close to Ambient as possible without resorting to Refridgeration practices.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Because this is xTreme h20 cooling. Using mechanical energy only to move air and liquid in such ways to cool your pc as close to Ambient as possible without resorting to Refridgeration practices.

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W00t!!
I love that:clap: :clap:
Thats real Xtreme WC

I challenge you zenjirou, with my MD-30RT + Reserator 1 with top blow fan + single 120cfm 120mm blackice + Dual Blackice III with SIX 120 mm 80cfm fans OUTDOOR!!!:p:
i know it is no contest against your car rad, but we will see how well it goes
pics coming soon, i need some help from you with the pump setup thou

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1803/dsc000481xq.jpg

pass-through piece for rear 80mm fan mount to sepearte internal and external tubing to prevent problems from accidental pulling of tubing while setting up, or moving radiator. Has holes for cables comming into PC Chasis from radiator (pump, fans , etc)

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Originally Posted by t1no

Why not use a AC unit?

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I just moved my comp in front of an AC vent and I get like 26c idle, 34 load with koolance 601b. Lol :)

AC Vents rock it hardcore.

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Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Because this is xTreme h20 cooling. Using mechanical energy only to move air and liquid in such ways to cool your pc as close to Ambient as possible without resorting to Refridgeration practices.

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true. but why not just make it Xtreme Cooling instead of Xtreme h2o cooling.
better performance is what being Xtreme is all (mostly at least right?) about. ;)

How did you manage to get one for $75? :eek:
Koyo radiators go for like $300.
Junkyard?

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Originally Posted by vudoodoodoo

How did you manage to get one for $75? :eek:
Koyo radiators go for like $300.
Junkyard?

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eBay.

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Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Serious problem with my choice of fans. I feel kind of stupid now that I have these. These fans are perefect except for one thing. When using only a couple of these its no problem, but with many of them it adds up. The power usage of these fans is around 11 Watts at 12V, they consume .9Amps each when at 130cfm

If I run these at 5v, they will still eat 5W each, thus if I use 16 of them I will be consuming 80W of power!


In contrast, if I used Late yoons at 5V, my total power usage would be
24W of Power


I overlooked this; I'll have to thest with multimeter its wattage at silent levels. I really hope they consume around 2 Watts each, otherwise using these fans will consume more power than its worth

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You could build a rectifier to get 120v dc from the wall and just run all those fans in series.

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Originally Posted by Zenjirou

thanks for the link slicey
http://www.allelectronics.com/images...ull/CF-244.jpg

These would be perfect, being only 200cfm's they would be silent. too bad they are 24V fans.

I think I'im getting impatient :p
I'm going to remove the temporary cooling box and connect the koyo as it is right now and use huge fan with cardboard shroud until real should is made.
I do knot know if changing the radiator can help overclocks, as hardware fails/passes in superPI within a few seconds, too fast for water too heat up. Eitherway Overclcoks seem to be at its maximum at 3.15 on opty 146 and 703Mhz on 7900Gtx

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ALL compouter suplies have a -12V Buss what does 12V + (-12V) equal in electronic terms? = 24Volts So you and every one ells who has a spar PSU all ready have 24V and a 10V bus at your finger tips (5V + (-5V) = 10V)

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Originally Posted by Zenjirou

Owner of a fan company told me that PWM's are bad for these type of fans, and will have ticking noise and shortens life of motor.

He also explained how most Controllers just use resistors/POTS to lower speed of fan, and udervolting does not conserve power, because takes more current to maintain rpms at the lower speed


No clue how much truth is in that, but anyways, just ordered Lates from J-mag.

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He was 1000% Honest with you and truth full. The axial computer fans us the hall effect to spin ie they watch for a pulse within them selfs, now obviously pulsing the power will mess up its internal pulse sensor.

They use an RC circuit as the Pulse timer to coordinate with the Hall, now if you sub the resister with a pot you can synchronize all the fans. This is where they get the tach from as well, by watching the hall transistor.

Been following this thread with great interest. I'm going to have to replace the stock rad in my car with a Fluidyne or PWR eventually, so when I saw a Koyo rad cooling a computer I was very impressed!

Anyhow, I guess you've already moved on from finding an Automotive fan but the most popular aftermarket rad fans are from Flex-a-lite or FAL fans for sport compacts. Here's their website http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/electric-fans.html

Funny thing though, the stock fan shroud on my vehicle has been shown time and time again to be more efficient than these electric fan.

If I wasn't a total newb to watercooling, I'd consider finding a car radiator for passive watercooling as well. My HTPC is in my theatre room, and the A/V wires come through a wall from an unfinished room. I want to setup a slient watercooling system where the radiator and pump is located in the other room.

bump!!!

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Originally Posted by bigslappy

bump!!!

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Haha, dang.... talk about bringing back from the dead!!!!! :rofl::rofl::ROTF:

But this is a very cool rig Zenjirou!! Excellent job there m8! :up:

For the love of God, why?