I know they have all the blocks made exactly for the Maximus, but to my knowledge they aren't sold as a kit yet.
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I know they have all the blocks made exactly for the Maximus, but to my knowledge they aren't sold as a kit yet.
lol cheers fellaz silly silly me
Anyone want those blocks in white acetal? i do ... but i don't think eddie would do just one set.. maybe if a few of us got them :) hmmmm
Hope this image works for your datbase Talonman. It's been folding stable for over 48 hours at this point. :) Ambient is currently 70F. Cpu is at 100%.
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/2...ingstabki3.png
Wow!!
Looks like you could easily run that 24hrs, 7 days a week with no problem on NB temp.
Are you running the EK-NB S-MAX, or EK-NB S-MAX Acetal water block?
Thanks for the post. :)
OP has been updated!
WFO -------------- 1.46v ------ 30°C -Folding 48Hrs - Q6600 GO @ 3.7GHz ------ EK S-MAX Acetal
BTW, If anybody is feeling chatty about helping a newbie OC his system, please come dirty up my build thread: :)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=160606&page=5
I am at that phase now, and would keep this thread dedicated to the cooling of the board. ;)
Got my blocks and everything right (including the backplates) except the NB (did not deciper the forum thread referral link right). Some how got the general Asus 775 block EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal instead of the maximus formula specific one EK-NB S-MAX Acetal (For Asus Maximus) . Was already to start when noticed that one bad part. Still working on case mods for the rad etc so it would have only been running on the workbench. Guess it would have been worse if the case was ready too and much worse if I had disabled the board before noticing the wrong part. Know how Talonman felt now with the long build delay in getting his parts.
Sorry to hear dogin...
Waiting and rounding up the correct parts has got to be the worst thing about building a new system.
I have Asus maximus formula. Do you think, that passive cooler for SB is enough?
does the EK blocks come with backplates?
No, they doesn't come with any backplate unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
i think he will be bringing some out for his blocks very soon though
Just a thought ... are you using the sound card that came with the Maximus or an aftermarket sound card ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
In either case, have you tried some form of shielding for the sound card to see if this alleviates the issue ?
My system has been OC'ed to 3.7GHz. :)
This shot was taken right before I manually shut down Prime95, after successfully completing 1.5 hours of hard labor.
Room temp was 63.2F.
It also drove my CPU's temp's to a new high! :eek:
The 1 hour OCCT test was not getting this high before successful completion. I now believe Prime95 given time, runs your temps higher than OCCT will.
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/4974/run6brr4.jpg
My NB hit 27C for the first time!
System is currently stable at 3.7GHz, with a 414 FSB setting, using a 400 NB Strap.
Them OC'ed Quads Priming can really throw some heat!
Quad stock speed couldn't break 31C.
Quad OC'ed to 3.7GHz, after 1.5 hours can put me real close to 50C!
Wow! :shocked:
Updating OP...
Talonman --------- 1.57v ------ 27°C --1.5hr Prime95 -- Q6600 GO @ 3.7GHz ------ EK S-MAX Acetal
I wonder if I need to look at starting to walk my NB BIOS setting of 1.57v back down some. It is currently reading 1.62 in Everest.
That seems a bit high, and might be running my NB heat up unnessisarily?
it would appear that the mips-sixdegidn blocks will take some time to come around. the question is if i will go ahead and try to get them anyway or go for the EK blocks.
2) Southbridge, It is the opinion of many that the SB is not getting that hot and with some pasive cooling it works fine. I dont mind going for it but the VGA is in the way for the tube,barbs i think. i have not yet try to fix a piece of tube at my system but i think i will. the question is if i need to at the same time WC the vga and get some space cleared out then ínstall the SB block or get some pasive cooling.
Any ideas pls let me know. and if any one has a picture (close up) pls post it so to get some ideas on the subject.
those temps are good for 3.7ghz talonman push it to 4ghz....
loading even in the 65-70c is fine :)
I know I am still doing fine on temps... ;)
I would like to see 4.0...
I don't know what to try next...
Come school me! :)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=160606&page=6
Talonman, show the memory side of CPUZ too. What divider on ram and what latency. Does your ram do mem test 86 at higher speed? I think I would crank down the CPU multiplier and see how high your ram will go first? Then I would crank your ram down and see how high your CPU will go. Then you have a limit to move to????
I have it all listed in this thread: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=160606&page=6
with my BIOS settings.
And the history of what I have tried so far.
I would be glad for any OC'ing advice you might have... :up:
Talonman, I would go here to speed up your progress:
http://www.asktheramguy.com/v3/forumdisplay.php?f=131
You can see what others have done with your ram. You can also post an inquiry and you will get some expert assistance (including some from corsair)based on your CPU ram combination. They helped me get to 1800FSB and as soon as I am water cooled, I am expecting more as it seems the NB is the main limiting factor especially when you have 4 gigs of ram. My CPU (know its not the same as yours but) by itself (with the ram not pushed) goes to 4GHz easily.
Thanks for the link... Checking it out now. ;)
EK Mosfet Backplates for EK ASUS 1, 3, 3a blocks are out now.
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=236
$5.13 USD
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/images...ate-mosfet.jpg
You can also get these from chilled PC http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/shop...sort=2a&page=1 and these chip protectors http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/shop...sort=2a&page=3
Although the availability is still limited by Ek's production, Have found Chilled PC to be great to work with.
Links are broken.. they just take me to an empty shopping cart.Quote:
Originally Posted by dogin
iam trying to justify for my self the 140€ plus shipping for the EK blocks as a kit.
a) will make my loop with less flow.
b) will take the temps few C down from what they are now
c) will probably raise my CPU temp
d) will loose the waranty off my maximus
e) i might destroy the modo trying to remove the stock fusion block
dont know.....
what is the plus side of it..
for the glory of doing it??:down: :up: :shrug:
Because you wanted it ? Show you have balls ? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
because this is xtremesytems bud
I'm about to embark on this road myself.
Parts list so far:
CPU- D-Tek Fuzion
NB - EK-NB S-Max Plexi
GPU - ???? (Still deciding whether to keep my 8800 GTX or go for 3870x2 (and then Crossfire it!)
Pump - Swiftech MCP655
Rad - Thermochill PA120.2
Tubing - Tygon R-3606 1/2 ID 3/4 OD (How many feet do I need?)
Res - Swiftech MCRES-MICRO
stock cooling makes me laugh :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
i guess you might raise your cpu temps a little if their on the same loop, but then again mine dropped, so i have no idea what you could be insinuating here. the stock NB water cooling block on the maximus is very restrictive and makes less than 40% contact to the heatpipe/heatsink cooler (due to a very cheap TIM application process at the manufacturer). but think of how much cooler the entire chipset gets. Trust me, and all of the results, you will benifit from cooling the north and south bridge.
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Some Person I Dont Remember Their Name
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
I agree with you all. ( guess just needed to hear it again)Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
we all do it because we can and for all these little things inside us that makes us want to do one more thing, try one more product, get that extra mhz or ghz or 1C temp down
to go where no one has gone before!!
Not by much, but still enouigh to officially get me into the 3.8GHz club! :woot:
Prime doing it's thing crossing the hour mark error free. Still looking :cool: too.
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/5362/run8ql4.jpg
I can go higher, but have to add more voltage to the CPU, and set the Transaction Booster to Disabled, and insure the 'Relax Level' is set to 0 too. ;)
FYI - I did successfully Prime95 error free for 45 minutes at 3.9GHz, but it makes me set my CPU Core to 1.55v in the BIOS, and I pannicked and stopped the test. I still have no idea what is safe there... Everest reads 1.53v on the CPU core when I set the BIOS to 1.55v.
I am not sure how much voltage I want to give my CPU 24 X 7. For now I think I will keep my 3.8GHz, and wait for my GPU... ;)
I did lower my NB voltage too. I didn't need that much even for my 3.8GHz. It maxed out 1C cooler, even with the CPU clocked faster.
Updating OP!
Also note my signature update...
Processor: Q6600 G0 @ 3.8GHz :sonic: :banana3: :bounce:
It just needed to be done. You can't have any street cred on XtremeSystems running stock! :shocked: :down:
mines OCs exactly like yours and I run 1.52v 24/7 all day @ 3.825GHZ
For my 3.81GHz, I keep my at CPU Voltage : 1.506v (BIOS), 1.49v in Everest.
I think that is safe....
I just don't know when you start to get into 1.55v's and above, if it can hurt your CPU if I wanted to chase 3.9GHz or 4.0GHz...
A Core voltage of 1.55 and above is what my board will require to hit thoes kind of numbers.
That would be BIOS setting too.
Looks good Talonman. I tend to agree about the 1.5v range, but you could see what temps you get a little higher??
Yes... Priming 45 minutes at 1.9GHz made my CPU to go to about 53C.
1.8GHz is much easier to hit, and still get Everest to register 4. anything. :)
It was strictly the Voltage I was putting to the Core that scared me.
With my current 1.8GHz setting, just surfing the web for 3 hours, (pritty much idle) temps are:
Core1-24C, Core2-23C, Core3-22C, Core4-24C.
NB-22C
SB-26C
Room temp-61.3F.
I ask the guys at MIPS few questions about their freezers. They have been very helpfull and got some answers regarding the installation.
I believe you understand the questions
a) freezers comes without backplates, for the nb you must use the
original backplate and screws/springs
b)the fittings must be 1/4" and the threads should have max. 5mm, if
your fittings are longer than 5mm u must use our distance rings which
are included to every freezer
c) there is no problem with the 8800gtx card, when you look at the pic and
take a imaginare line from the 2nd pcie 1.0 slot you will see thats enough
space.
(will make a new thread for the installation, need to get some other bits here and there before i start)
Thanks for the update, and keep us posted.. :)
Hey Talonman, just wanted to say thanks for the detailed reports of your OC adventures. :) As a folder first, I strive for stable clocks in extreme temps. 85-103F :yepp: I couldn't resist putting the pedal to the metal for some benchies after your posts. I hope to improve on both of these before the hot weather arrives. . :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Edit: And no, I didn't bother running prime95 because I'm still chicken. I have no intention of running this voltage 24/7. Maybe after another 6 months of lurking and learning. :) I've followed all the Maximus threads since this board was released. With the problems I've read about, I dreaded starting the OC process. This has been the easiest board to OC I've ever had. I've had a couple failed OCs and 1 hard lockup. I haven't had to clear cmos once. And I never even hooked up the LCD display. Best board I've owned yet!!! Beats down my P5Ks without even breathing hard. :)
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/8...pi39152sl3.png
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8...0619439pk3.png
No problem.... 3.9GHz :clap: :D
Sweet!
1.528V!! Running er into the red zone too I see.... ;)
LOL! You were my guinea pig. :ROTF: Thanks for injecting some courage into a chicken. :rofl: I've never been extreme but I'm working on it! :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
WFO, I just found this info in the Intel section of the board. It is an OC Q6600 voltage chart! I guess me having to run a 1.55v core setting in the BIOS to get 3.9GHz, isn't as dangerous or uncommon as I origionally had thought.... :up:
Have you seen this? http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=157690
Q6600 Table-----------------------------
Q6600 G0 - L727A856 - 4.36Ghz P stable - PC (custom) - 1.7v - Asus P5K-E - by -------------------jinu117
Q6600 G0 - L737B186 - 4.01Ghz - WC (custom) - 1.504v - ASUS P5K Prem - by --------------------Devious
Q6600 G0 - L727A934 - 4Ghz P stable - PC Vapo LS - 1.425v - ASUS P5K Prem - by ----------------dragonhunter
Q6600 G0 - L723A795 - 4Ghz P stable - PC jinu117 - 1.485v - ASUS P5K Prem - by -----------------billdavis
Q6600 G0 - L724A629 - 4Ghz P stable - WC D-Tek Fuzion - 1.6v - EVGA 680i - by ------------------turtletrax
Q6600 G0 - L724A784 - 4Ghz P stable - WC D-Tek Fuzion - 1.62v - ASUS P5K Prem - by ------------TinTin
Q6600 G0 - L723B010 - 4Ghz (500x8) P stable - WC D-Tek fuzion - 1.64v - ASUS Blitz Formula - by---Ic3man
Q6600 G0 - L725B057 - 3.9Ghz P stable - WC D-Tek Fuzion - 1.496V - ASUS P5K-E - by ------------dj883u2
Q6600 G0 - L723B284 - 3.9Ghz P stable - WC Apogee GT - 1.52v- DFI P35-T2R - by - --------------RLM
Q6600 G0 - L726A840 - 3.9Ghz P stable - WC Apogee GT - 1.5375v - EVGA 680i - by ---------------CraptacularOne
Q6600 G0 - L726A822 - 3.9Ghz P stable - WC D-Tek Fuzion - 1.58v - ASUS P5K Dlx - by ------------rbsmontemor
Q6600 G0 - L726A951 - 3.85Ghz P stable - WC D-Tek Fuzion - 1.52v - ASUS P5K Dlx - by -----------no_n|ck
Q6600 G0 - L726A850 - 3.85Ghz P stable - AC TR Ultra 120 - 1.537v - ASUS P5K Dlx - by ----------crossg.
Q6600 G0 - L727A918 - 3.82Ghz P stable - WC Apogee GT - 1.52v - ASUS Striker Extreme - by -----linflas
Q6600 G0 - L724A*** - 3.82Ghz P stable - WC D-Tek Fuzion - 1.54v - ASUS Striker Extreme - by----nugzo
Q6600 G0 - L723A674 - 3.81Ghz P stable - WC Apogee GT- 1.54v Gigabyte DS4 - by ----------------aspms*
Q6600 G0 - L731B163 - 3.8Ghz P stable - AC Tuniq Tower - 1.525v - Maximus Formula SE - by ------loc.o
Q6600 G0 - L726A*** - 3.8Ghz P stable - WC - 1.43v - ASUS P5K Dlx - by -------------------------njkid32
Q6600 G0 - L727A673 - 3.8Ghz P stable - AC TR Ultra - 1.472v - Gigabtye P35-DQ6 - by ------------dertimaushh
Q6600 G0 - L720B066 - 3.8Ghz P stable - AC TR 120 - 1.5v - Abit IP35 Pro - by --------------------Ace-a-Rue
Q6600 G0 - L726A849 - 3.8Ghz P stable - AC TR Ultra 120 - 1.5v ASUS P5K E - by ------------------sam95ta
Q6600 G0 - L724A*** - 3.8Ghz P stable - WC Apogee GT - 1.55v - DFI P35-T2R - by ---------------RLM
Q6600 G0 - L719B278 - 3.8Ghz P stable - WC D-Tek Fuzion - 1.6v - Abit IP35-Pro - by - ------------vkostas
I now think I can set my CPU core voltage higher than 1.555v's in the BIOS, and expect my CPU should be able to brunt it fine! Especially on water...
In case you guys havent figured it out yet, I'm a charts and listings guy!! ;)
man i said that awhile back :)
I remember.... But I needed to see the numbers. :p: :rofl:
I believe, I believe....
I remember a thread from about 8 months ago asking who was running 1.5 or over for 24/7. There were a good 3 pages of responses. Most here don't seem to care if they only get 6 months out of a cpu because something better will be released that they will buy. I should probably adopt that philosophy. :yepp: For some reason my mindset has been that I need 2 years out of the procs in my folding farm but I've been upgrading about every 8 months. :shocked: Too, my clocks have always been temp limited as average temps are 88-93F in the summer. I think this rig has the cooling for 3.8 in the summer. :) Yesterday I did some tinkering with 1.575 vcore in the bios. I'll probably keep looking for a bench stable 4.0 as I want to improve my 3DMark '06 and 32M Super Pi scores. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
After seeing the chart, it gave me the wish to try to run 3.8 GHz 24/7. I have one of the best G0 on hand (proven to get over 4 GHz by someone else here with the same batch as mine).
I think I may fool around and try for the coveted 4GHz myself too!
If any of you guys get 4GHz stable on the Maximus, post up your Core voltage.
I do know what you mean WFO on the mindset of protecting your chips. But I bet we both will be on another processor in 12 months....
We both might have to just run the pants off of our Q6600's. :p:
I have placed orders for the remaining of the parts.
MIPS Freezers by Sixdesign are on delivery route. PS Michael from Mips has been vey kind and assisting me with the order. (very pleased customer,i am)
Some other parts coming from Vcore.dk who by they way are very easy to deal with. also ordered the D-Tek FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set
Not to make any advert, but both firms have been very service minded :up:
:) :)
That is good to hear, and think that super customer service dosen't happin enouigh in this world!
Glad to hear you have your parts in route too... :up:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...85#post2767385
Link to my worklog for the installation of the MIPS freezers
:welcome:
Thanks for posting your exact order in that link. I am sure it will help the next guy out that want's to go the same route as you did.. :up:
We will be watching... :cool:
Don't be shy on giving this thread some direct updates too.
I will be wanting a temp report out of you! ;)
The OP's listing is dyeing for some numbers on your blocks.
How did you guys mount the EK S-MAX with the backplate that came with the SE?
The screws supplied with the block dont fit at all, so I guess you modded the backplate somehow.
I'm also wondering about the Mosfet-blocks, could I just keep the thermal pads already on the board? (They didnt come off when I removed the cooler)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Page 30. Cutt um and drilled um!
Not sure what most of the MOSFET guys are doing for their blocks, TIM or pads?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You guys will have to forgive me, this was already posted in the section for Q6600 temps, but I simply must call attention to the performance I'm getting out of that NB block.... :D
Taking advantage of this cold Ohio day, I cut Prime loose for an extended run using my 'new improved' normal every day 3.8GHz settings:
My 4 hour error free run using my 3.8GHz settings. Room temp was a brisk 55°F or 12.7°C:
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8839/run10yv4.jpg
Granted, my basement is a cold sucker, but ya still have to give the block some big credit for keeping the NB at 22°C, 4 hours in with the hammer down hard. :yepp:
I am officially an EK fan!
My basement is so cold I feel guilty even thinking about updating the chart! .... snicker. I think I should probably let this one slide? ;)
Can you believe it, now my crappy basement makes me feel guilty for having low temps! :rofl:
However I am proud of my shiny NB block, and how it tames the NB'es heat on the Maximus.
1 Free life tip: If you have a cold basement, go stand outside and smoke your pipe (Captain Black BTW!:slapass: ). When you come back in, it seems warm! Just keep your hat on and fire up a game. With a sweat-shirt on, you'll sweating like a pig in no time. ;)
It's quite evident that my system loves my temps that aren't fit for most humans! I really am used to it, and dress accordingly... :) :shrug:
We truly have an OC season in this house, in my basement. :p:
Talonman, You are too funny, but that is an oustanding result!!!!!!!!!! I have one more block (NB) coming that was waiting for a modified top before they ship it. Got my Fluid XP+ Extreme - UV Deep Purple fluid today so getting close. Still have to finish painting inside of case Black Cherry Metallic (Should be a good contrast with the purple fluid) and touch up the edges on the cut out for the PA120.3 on the case top. Need some warm days.
One more fine rig will be comming online. :up:
Glad to hear, and keep us posted.
PadsQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
TIM is just not suited for this application
>The MOSFET blocks don't have much support except for one off-center mounting point on each end allowing it to wobble a lot. If you use TIM it could be continusily squished in many different ways that it could be moved right out from under the block.
>While using pads they will stay in place much better.
>you also cant acheive the pressure required to make good TIM contact.
>Furthermore, if you dont use a back plate there will be a little bowing and the MOSFET chips in the middle may not make any contact at all!
>pads are a lot thicker than TIM, so they will form to the bow a little better.
> the amount of cooling required to cool the MOSFET chips is minimal. so theres no need for high proformance TIM
Tip: use the pads that are removed from the original MOSFET cooler as their the perfect cut size.
Today i was very excited as i received the package with the freezers.
Nicely packaged sent by airmail. From the day of purchase door to door 4 days! Excelent.
Each freezer is nicely packed in a air bubble bag.
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/710/pict0108ei1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/1492/pict0121hd0.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14
Before I start I notice that the bottom place is not mirror like. This is the same for all freezers.
For the Mosfets you will need the pads from the original fusion block
For the Northbridge you will need the backplate and the screws from the original fusion block.
For the Southbridge screws, washers are provided
This is the Southbridge freezer
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/1382/pict0118zn0.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14
Nice copper with 2 distance rings and plastic washers.
It has been said that: the fittings should be ¼” and the threads should have max. 5mm, if your fittings are longer than 5mm, then must use the distance rings which are included to every freezer.
Thus the of the HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread) with the following specifications Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18") should fit and the distance rings are not needed.
Now that i try it on this happens
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/1687/pict0111zl2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14
The one with out the distance ring is not airtight. meaning that i must use the distance ring, who by the way was a O-ring. So one side fits the freezers and the other from the barb (O-ring) the distance ring.
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3016/pict0115go7.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14
quick question for you guys
I see niksub kept the stock mosfet coolers and jus removed the fusion block along with the sb sink. Is it one big cooling piece or is it detachable?
Yes it detachable, from the SB and NB heatsinks, it is only attached with some tape, just take it nice and easy when pulling them apart.
@neo, looking good bro, feels like christmas again ah!!!
The North Bridge and South Bridge are connected as one peice, and the two Mosfet rows are connected together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aldy402
Bridges and Mosfets are separate.
thanks to everybody for the answers, I've aquired an old sb sink from an old p5b deluxe and using that on my formula along with a mcw30
pics to come on sunday
Glad you received your parts, and thanks for the picts.Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
I'm going to flog my EK's and get the MIP LTD edtion ones. I fancy something differnt. Though i hear the mips is tight as a duck ass for flow!!
Had a random leak on the bottom of my ek mosfet as well, Fesser does work as i noticed it when i pulled the rig from the pc as mosfets etc have been well covered in fuild whiest @ 5ghz!!
[QUOTE=Pete;2771410]Though i hear the mips is tight as a duck ass for flow!!
[QUOTE]
I asked the question my self (before ordering them) regarding the flow and here is the answer.
"our freezers are channel freezers and have no flow restrictions."
When i look side the NB freezer it has a spiral share
( ( ( ) ) )
(sort off) and to my self appears more in depth than the normal stock block
Will let you know after i have installed them
Hey Talonman, I'm so jealous of your basement temps. :p: Please tell us the basement warms up to at least 75F in the summer so we don't feel so bad. :)
I'm not sure I can promise that WFO... ;)
Just in case any of you water heads never make it into the 'Intel' section of the board much, I just picked up on a Maximus tip I must post in here too just once. ;)
If when your desktop comes up, and your red X stayes lit up in the bottom right hand side of your screen, indicating your internet connection isn't made for 90 seconds, you need a sound card driver update. When I was OC'ing, at every boot-up, after the desktop would appear, no programs would launch, nor internet connection would be made for 90 long seconds.
Trunes out the soundcard driver that is on the CD, that comes with the Maximus needs updated.
I had to install the updated driver, and using Device Manager remove the sound card too. The next boot Vista found the sound card, and installed the new updated driver. The third re-boot delay is gone. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMike
That 90sec wait on every re-boot was driving me nutts especially when BIOS tweaking. Just watching the X, and riding the timer out get's old fast!! Man!!
We are all Maximus guys in here, so the idea that the Driver on the supplied CD is the direct cause of this delay, can't be kept a secret.
Even the Aftermarket water-cooling thread should know... ;)
BTW, I have to say they do look like quality blocks, and I do think they gave you a good responce too. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
Time will tell. May cool temps blow your way! ;)
neo_rtr, what is the current temp today in the room your plan on running your rig? (Just thinking ahead already about your situaction.)
Right, so there should be no problem just mounting the MOSFET blocks on top of these:Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4485/maximus2ri2.jpg
None what so ever. They still look new.... :p:
I think that's good advice on the pads. Our chips are so tiny, it would be rough using a TIM i'm sure.
Right On :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
I made the mistake of taking the time to cut each pad and place it over every MOSFET chip (see it on page 8) :shakes:
Im afraid that someday something might make one slip out of position or something...
Northbidge
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/6087/pict0122zq8.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15
- Here you can take a look on the inside.
Mosfet
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/2386/pict0123zc0.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15
- Here you can take a look on the inside.
and again with barb (but with out the distance ring) Also notice that the screw will be going from underneath the motherbord
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/3782/pict0124fn2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15
- CloseUp
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/671/pict0126cw3.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15
Also the link to my worklog is:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post2772860
Just in case you want to have a loooook here as well!!
Yes i am thinking of this as well. I start takign readingsQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Just now iam at 24C. But i am going to get a better digital thermometer to get some more accurate reading at the time of the testing.
75.2°F ... Wow. It's warm there! :)
Today my room temp is 59.7°F or 15.3°C. ;)
I think the wife must have kicked the heater up a notch... :up:
Dont make me open the window ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
PS what do you think about the SB backplate, do you know any better ways of doing it?
Hey cheers dude for taking time to show us the blocks and everything. Now i need to order them which is fun as i don't do German and Google wont translate the page!Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
My bord is dead, gurt crack in the middle of it and stick stuff on the back..odd! So i will hot swap it at the shop tomorrow. Then i can strip the new working bord, get it ready for blocks being fitted.
New sb block by EK for Maximus ?
LINK
Not sure what to think about that block?
It is in the NB directory, but looks like it is made to handle both NB and SB. Mabey it's a new replacement?
Wow.. I might have a Limited Edition model NB block already!! Goes good with the SE! ;)
You mean are lack of SB backplate.. Not sure. The SB dosen't get that hot, so your probably fine withought one?Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
I did the old 'stick a sink to the chip' thing, and never had to make that decission. ;)
I think SB only and better barb/hose alinment than the current if running dual cards, someone PM Eddy and ask
Custom made backplate for the Southbridge.
IT is in fact the AMD one from the D-Tek fusion , just cut it on my kitchen table and drilled it with a 3mm drill.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/7083/pict0130io7.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15
I believe that before i start the build to "fix it (better looks)" but if not it fits as it is..
If the general opinion is that is not needed will not bother putting it on.
better be prepared though!!
Obviously you did something that worked for you Talonman. :) I'm not trying to start any arguments. In the same thread, someone mentioned, it isn't a Realtek sound card. The drivers supplied by Asus are "Soundmax." At least on my board. The High definition audio device in Device Manager has a Microsoft driver. The SoundMax is listed as an analog device. Does device manager show a realtek device or driver on your rig? I suspect you uninstalled the SoundMax driver and Vista replaced it with MS. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
I too had the 90 second plus delay. I followed this suggestion...
It worked for me. Now... 10 seconds after hitting enter from the password screen, I have a fully functional desktop. If it's true Vista boots from 1 core by default, 1 core could not handle the read from my 4 drive raid 0 array. :yepp: The tweak didn't speed booting from my 2 drive raid 0 Vista rig or single hd XP rigs. ( All Quads) It may be a real driver issue in which case standard Vista drivers should be considered. Let us know if you see Realtek mentioned anywhere in device manager for your audio device. ;) I'm curious to know if they actually installed. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenEffect
Under my High def audio device it has Microsoft v6.0.6000.16386 for the driver.. :)
Heck, I don't know any more. I am just glad the delay is gone, and my sound card is working.
Are you saying the driver update is totally unrelated? :)
anyone know if the EK Asus 1 block would work on the maximus' SB?
it looks like it was made for it.
No, it's been said why manny manny times and even Eddy has said it with the blocks that fit it. #3 only due to the single cap that next to the SB that feeds it
I got some info boys!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
What are you saying Pete?
We need to add the "EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal" to the SB list?
I'm sort of confused about what to do with my q6600 and maximus formula. I have a mcp655 vario and I will be getting a pa120.3 and d-tek fuzion with nozzle kit shortly.
My dilemma is simple; have a loop containing only the fuzion, or add the appropriate EK block for the northbridge. The goal obviously is stability at speeds higher than 3.6 ghz, 24/7.
Will a set of thermalright heatsinks for NB, SB and mosfets (or even the stock heatpipe :banana::banana::banana::banana:s) be adequate for 400+ fsb @ 1.5 NB voltage running 24/7? I took the iniative to remove the thermal adhesive on the entire assembly before first boot, replacing it with MX-2. My NB temps are around 50 C at 1.5v using the stock heatpipe assembly.
Will adding the EK-NB S-MAX into the loop have a negative effects on CPU temps? Also, which nozzle is appropriate for a q6600? Obviously, I'd assume the quad nozzle is the right choice here, but I'm not sure how the addition of the ek nb block would factor into the equation.
Personly i have no idea, probs safer to ask Eddy that one which i will do now. It too me look like it allows corssfire & SLI as with the ASUS 3 on mine i can't as the 1/2'' EK barb is too cose over the line of the slotQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
I think the delay may be related to the SoundMax driver provided by Asus. Vista has drivers which make the sound card functional a on install if the speakers are plugged into the right jack.. I was just saying the Realtek download probably had nothing to do with it. Like you, I'm just happy that long delay is now gone. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Vista is ya problem, why run an os that hapmper everything, oc is worthless on vista but needed to get it to work at all
When you get your pa120.3, don't hesitate to add an aftermarket NB block in your loop. Your OC'ed Q6600 processor can only make 200 to 250W's of heat. The pa120.3 can handle 390 to 400W's of heat. I don't think adding in a NB block into a CPU only loop, would move your core temps any higher at all. I have a CPU and NB block in my loop, and have low temps. I intend to add 1 GPU into the same loop, and think I will still be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by theystolemyname
If you want 3.6GHz+ 24/7, you might be able to pull it off with the stock block, especially with the TIM you added in yourself, but I still would recomend EK NB block. It is a super performer! ;)
Thermalright heatsinks are nice, and I like mine allot, but also believe the stock heat sinks will do fine too...
Users choice in the MOSFET case I think? :)
You do use the Quad nozzle with a Q6600 processor.
No update will be done at this time then. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
I will just wait until I receive confromation from a member who gave it a try.
I have the followingQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Driver Provider: AnalogDevices
Driver Date: 2007-07-11
Driver Version: 6.10.1.6260
Vista 32
Does this helps?
I love Vista, and am receiving updates from Microsoft all the time. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
Sounds good buddy!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by WFO
I am just gald it's gone too. I will relax my position that the driver update solved the problem then.... It's officially a grey area!
To all with WC loop on the Nb, Sb, Mosfets
Is there a proven way for the tubbing that is best for this configuration?
I recall a CPU. mosfet1 , mosfet 2, Nb, SB on a picture.
Then we have the picture on the 1st page (with vga cooling though)
How about Mosfet 1, Mosfet 2, CPU, NB, SB
you know what i mean? best ways to get the tubbing in place without have to give much of the cooling to away from the cpu.
Glad ya do, just don't talk to me via MSN etc, not you personly but i just find it a bore now hacking Vista via MSN.Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Anyway Eddy spoke again
[QUOTE=Eddy_EK][QUOTE=Pete]Hey Eddy,
How come a smaller block, why the need. Did the ASUS 3 not fit properly then?
There we go, a revsion devlopement with the thought, care and attension to what ever is going to be coming next!Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
So we are saying the "EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal" is a replacement block for the SB, or NB and SB?
SB only, i think Eddy just lists them as it all for god know what reason but SB only and smaller probs to fit bord better, cleaner, nicer looking blah blahQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Thanks Pete.
SB line now reads:
South Bridge - EK-NB/SB ASUS 3, EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal, EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal, Sixdesign sold by MIPS.
Do you think the EK-NB/SB ASUS 3, EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal are discontinued?
Quick question guys, how did you remove the stock chipset assembly? I am pretty sure I broke my board trying to get that thing off....My top PCIe slot doesnt work anymore..... It was on as if it was Soldered on there....
are you kidding? mine just fell off when i removed all the screws/pins.
I have this in the OP:
My advice on the removal of the stock ROG cooling:
It took me a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer, warming the heat sink, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
Remove the 4 screws and all pins before starting. The entire cooling rig is all connected, and will want to move as 1 big unit.
You will need to make sure to give the SB some heat too. It has to let go at the same time that the NB does.
Never pull up! Just gently wiggle side to side. It will start to move when it's ready. Pulling up can cause your NB'es IHS to come off too. Most of us like it on, and think it works well with waterblocks.
Ware a glove as the sink get's hot with the hair dryer's heat blowing on it.
Mine was coaxed off successfully.
Try to avoid over heating the mobo if possible. Mabey use a towel as a heat shield for the chips?
The stock goop will be semi-molten when it slides free. It is the ideal time to use some acetone to clean the rest off.
That is my advice... :up:
Sorry to hear about your PCIe slot.
Cool, I should have come here first...... Ah well. The SB came off easily. I sure didn;t heat the NB up though, that would have been a good idea. I don;t have a hair dryer, nor a heat gun though, so that would not have worked for me. Oh well, had a bad weekend all together, apart from re-doing my whole loop. Got a DFI X38, so I should be putting that in today, and posting my machine (once it is up and running)
Thanks guys, will come in handy soon...
I just pulled mine off normaly. Nothing fancy. However i did pull the IHS off the X38. I was left with a naked X38. Amazing thing was it still worked naked and i also can put the IHS back if i need to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cptn Vortex
I seam to be the only one with a nake X38 working