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Yes,I can confirm.
Set in BIOS Vcore 1.3000V with LLC level4,load with LinX stay always at 1.3080-1.3200V.
Btw,UD7-B2 board with B3 BIOS.
http://i9.aijaa.com/b/00904/7882750.png
Set in BIOS Vcore 1.3650V with LLC level4,load with LinX stay always at 1.3680-1.3920V.
http://i10.aijaa.com/b/00497/7883129.png
C_N, why don't you try a cross-shipment RMA for a B3 UD5, flash it with F3g jz, then see if you like it. Then just return the other board back after testing (or claim the B3 is defective if the B2 board winds up more stable with the same bios version).
Because if you like the F3g beta, I think you'd be alot happier having LLC1 with small vdroop (0.03v measured?) and LLC2 with the vdroop of LLC1 of your B2 board, than the overshooting problems now.
(f3 final will still be erratic vcore anyway...I flashed back to f3g for now).
Ye thought about it amongst my usual crazy thoughts of buying another few 1155 boards chips etc but as luck would have it I've been real busy & as my board/rig works fine (still stoked to run 5G) Its not bothered me to the point of doing anything about it. Z68 is just round the corner I'll sort it out when I get a new board :D..... maybe :D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
3rd Results post updated right up to this post, not much to add & as ever if I have missed anyone let me know.
Forgot to say that’s a sick looking rig simon747 :up:
Hoss331 got the top spot for a couple things & not by just a little bit either!!
OCM's new chip moved him up a fair way
AMD Freak started the 3DMARK 11 scoreboard off nicely
ok I understand.
But I still think you should RMA because the B2 board will have almost no resell value if you move to z68.
Also can you update the main page with the info that the B2 UD5 may have an uncorrectable hardware problem with LLC overvolting that is fixed on the B3 boards (and not in the BIOS?)
GA-P67A-UD5-B3 - F3g1 -Modified BIOS to flash back from B2 to B3
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte...tml#post270423
Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Cheers:) Lots of dust coming I suspect:)
GOOD NEWS! Successfull cold boot with Pll enabled today on b3 f3g:) This was after 24 hour shutdown. I guess the 4 hour prayer session worked:):shocked: Yea, I hope it continues; then I will feel like it was a worthy investment:) Thanks to all for your help so far and I will keep you posted:)
Something is so weird with this mobo. I have bought myself a 1333mhz ram 1.5v 99924 1T as a back up until i get my G.SKILL replacement ram sticks and today the mobo had a cold boot problem again with 1333mhz ram, after being shut off for 9 hours. This brings me to the conclusion that the problem is in fact the motherboard or my PCI sound card. I will pull my sound card tomorrow and see if it will do this in the next few days. Im pretty sure that it will be doing the cold boot even with my G.SKILL replacement... :(
Turbo:
Did you try Control F1 in the BIOS to bring up the PCI latency screen? Probably won't do anything...
It does sound like the problem is "partially" fixed, but I guess it's more complicated than it seems. Maybe I'll actually power off the sysem tonight.
Try sleep. It's not a fix, but is faster any way.
Proud to say I haven't had the cold boot loop in over a week now with jz F3C or F3g but the system seems lots more stable and voltages hold better with the F3g and works well with the PLL 1 enabled so far.
Turbo I hope you get it sorted out I know it can be frustrating to wake up and go threw the loop, Did they say how long before you got your replacement Ram?
2nd hand value dont matter to me as when im finished with it I'll use it at work till it dies anyway but I take your point. It has a 2 or 3 year warranty anyway so plenty time to send it back if I want to or it failsQuote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
Hardly worth it everyone knows about it & in any event who says its wrong to overvolt... thats the way it was designed at the time & after people said they didn’t like it GB did something about it when they got a second go thanks to Intel.Quote:
Also can you update the main page with the info that the B2 UD5 may have an uncorrectable hardware problem with LLC overvolting that is fixed on the B3 boards (and not in the BIOS?)
I do take your point about the B2's overvolting & am one of the people that don’t like it infact I'll go further its sh1t & I would never expect a top flight company like GB to release such a hash but it is what it is. I don’t like it & maybe it is harming my chip maybe not but as P67 will have like a 6 month lifespan for me I don’t really care anyway... I've had fun, the board has maxed everything I have out & is still pulling like a champ so in that respect :up: GB
Can’t remember who said they never saw the 1st post screen when booting there UD5 but I have something to say about it.
Last night I gave F3G a bit of a high speed run & it was almost impossible to get into the BIOS with AHCI enabled, the rig booted so quick at 5.5GHz it gave me like .000000000001 nano sec to push del before moving onto the second AHCI screen before the windows logo. I gave up benching with AHCI enabled & switched back to IDE & all was fine once again.
AHCI enabled also just like most other BIOS's needs del to be pressed at a specific time to get into BIOS, sometimes pressing del a couple times makes the board reboot sometimes it get to the blue BIOS screen & hangs. I would suggest you use IDE mode if you want to be in & out of BIOS a lot.
This was with a SSD maybe the issue is less noticeable with a conventional platter drive :shrug:
Anyway F3G clock just as good on my B2 board as my fav BIOS F5x but I think it accepts settings a little better in as much as it never once failed to post anything 1st time every time unlike the numerous maybe 2~5 boot loops F5x sometimes takes to latch settings. I like it I'll just leave it on/in my board now as it’s no worse than my fav bios I have nowt to grumble about.
I've got an RMA# for my B2 but having a real hard time letting her go. She is pwning so good but if I ever want to sell the board it'll need to be a B3.
http://hwbot.org/signature.img?iid=5...se&iehack=.jpg
Hall-loo-ya!! Praise the lord!! I am on one day 2 with no cold boot issues on f3g with Pll enabled; looking good!!Quote:
Originally Posted by AMD_Freak
Can you remove the RESET jumper from the case i/o panel?Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiv
Sounds almost like a reset is triggering.
I just did two cold boots, one after 6 hours powered off (PSU remained on), another after a bit after one hour powered off, but PSU switched off (so no +5v going to the board. If you turn off the PSU, it should be irrelevant if the board is powered off 1 hour or 1 day).
(I have a PCI X-fi fatal1ty).
If you try S3 with PLL enabled, can you recover out of the infinite boot loop by pressing RESET, or do you have to clear the cmos?Quote:
Originally Posted by AMD_Freak
I pulled my sound card yesterday and now im using the on board Azalia codec. This morning, it gave me the overclock failed screen again, w/o a sound card plugged in so the problem is not the sound card at all. I have enabled the special functions in bios and i have disabled Spread Spectrum and also Enable Intel PLL overvoltage just to see if it will help in the cold booting. My CPU is stable without Internal PLL but just in case.
What is this jumper for reset in mobo ? You mean my RESET switch that's plugged in the mobo ?
ps2: And BTW, the onboard sound is damn good. I don't get why people think its bad. I had my sound card for a few years and at the time i purchased it it made a difference, but today this Realtek on-board chip is doing damn fine job. I got Sennheiser HD 555 so i know what im talking about. I dont think ill put the sound card back. :)
Yes I mean that reset jumper that's plugged into the motherboard. Try pulling that out just to see...
When you get overclock failed, do you get two or three boot loops?
the S3 as in the sleep? i never use sleep either its on or off for my system. IIRC I was reading someplace a while back if you had SSD sleep was a no no http://thessdreview.com/Forums/ssd-discussion/657.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
here is a thread on it "Sorry...
According to OCZ, i should:
[ You must set your BIOS to use "S1 Sleep Mode" for proper operation, and
Using S3 or AUTO may cause instability ]
And what about the internal HDD's ?"
Complete bs.
Pardon me?
Maybe ...Maybe not but I don't have boot loop anymore in over a week.Quote:
Originally Posted by nijel
I am enjoying the b3 ud5 now that it is booting better with f3g beta bios, so much better than my ud4 b2:))) Man...FSX is finally where is should be. Cls 6 ram does wonders for this badly coded game. Common another day of nice booting....if all ok, problem solved via beta bios:):yepp:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
I've been using sleep=S3 only + Intel G1 and G2 now on different platforms for a looong time and never had problems. Actually now I remember when G1 came out I had sleep problem on Vista for a short time but don't remember what was the culprit. I think it was Intel AHCI driver. Maybe it's OCZ thing but I doubt that. To say on official forum SSD + sleep is a no go that's bs, someone didn't do their job.Quote:
Originally Posted by AMD_Freak
But if works for you... that's good.
I dont get a boot loop, ever. What happens is this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
Machine been off for 9 hours, than I press the power button and than it boots, starts doing its memory check and shows the bios/CPU speed than it suddenly shuts off by itself and boots up again, and than it shows me the "Overclcok failed screen" and asks me to press a button to continue. Thats my only problem ever since B2. Than i press a button and log into the bios - SAVE AND EXIT and than it boots perfectly fine and stable untill i shut it down for 9 hours and than the same procedure. I have never had more than 1 self-reboot on the board.
ps; Very rarely, the board re-boots like described above but manages to keep its settings and doesnt give me "overclcok failed" screen. It just reboots with no reason and than loads windows. Thats extremely rare tho, most of the time it comes with overclcok failed screen after it does it.
ps2: My intel SSD is hooked up on the second white 6gbps SATA 3 port. Is it a Marvle controller or Intel controller for the white SATA 3 ports on this mobo ?
I really don't know either but since I have turned it off I haven't had problems I am by no way a fan of OCZ and this SSD will be my last purchase from them I did how ever do a google on the Issue and did find others saying the same things with BSOD and boot loops with other brands of SSD and find it hard to think its a SSD issue for everyone since some prolly are not using them so far the f3g has been the best for me ive been able to use PPL 1 without issue. if i remember tonight Ill try to enable the s3Quote:
Originally Posted by nijel
and see what happens in the morning.
You just described a boot loop, my friend :) Well, a double boot. Just not an infinite boot loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiv
It says 100x34 when you see that screen, right before the restart, right?
Try removing the RESET jumper just to see. Because that's exactly what happens if I press RESET to reset the computer, or if I go too high with PLL Overvoltage disabled. (I do have the reset jumper on, but I don't use it since it boot loops (twice) then OC failed.
BTW I also have the RAM set to turbo and timings set to "quick" and 13.33 manually; I don't know if that has any effect, but I saw something months ago (pre-B3) saying setting to "quick"/speed helped.
for info purpose ill add this maybe we can figure something out : I have my SSD in the top white port nothing in the 2nd all other drives are in the black ports 2-DVDs / 2HDs, I have the ram set to 1866/ 101.0 fsb in slots 2&4 just to allow better air flow to the bottom of the cpu cooler I guess :D
all C-states/EIST/CPU thermal to disable, I wasn't aware of a jumper of any kind so it must be in stock pos. the open case setting is disabled, ram settings to turbo and the other is quick, XMP 1/ PLL overvolt 1.
Im kinda lost why you unplug your PSU? mine has been plugged in since the build. also what is the jumper for?
2 days ago I had my 1st crash while gaming in a week (code 0124) set Vcore up but I feel that was me trying to run at1.27v core now set to 1.280v RAM is set to 1.50v if I raise it to much or try to OC the ram over 102.0 it will crash 9/10 times after 20-30min. @ 9-10-9-28 T1
I have ran LinX for 20+ times any times over not an Issue. Only tried Prime 95 once since I hate it with a passion and figure if its going to crash it will crash with linX or Wprime , vantage, 3Dmark11 I have not had 1 single loop or failed OC since f3C w/PLL disabled now with F3g it is enabled and has been since the day it was posted. I feel pretty confident everything is stable ATM. so if you would like me to try something let me know and we will find out in the AM. it just confuses me as to why some are having troubles and Im not, when its the same board and bios,CPU, it just has to be some setting we are missing. hope this helps in some small way.
I just visited the official Gigabyte site and according to the description for the F3 bios it adresses the reset switch abnormality. I think ill upgrade to this bios tonight.
lol it doesn't.
On F3 final (before I flashed back to f3g), it just boots loops twice instead of three times :/
I don't touch that switch unless I want my CPU back at stock...
Maybe I'll try the onboard reset button and see what happens. nvm...not on F3 final anymore so no point....
OK, so whats next ? PSU ? :)
I just ordered a brand spanking new OCZ ZX 1250W - 104A on the 12v line(its a single rail monstrosity). This Chinese beast has to hold me for a while, it even has a 80+ GOLD certificate and its on sale for 150$ right now at NCIX after mail in rebate. I mean, i just could not resist at this price. After my memory replacement arrives, if its still doing cold boot crap i dont know what im gonna do, maybe obliterate the mobo... :rolleyes:
ps: For those interested, the PSU is built by a Chinese manufacturer called Great Wall which has pretty good reputation over the web, its same PSU that Sparkle uses in their gaming units.
WOW.... Thats awesome man :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Maximus
Maybe this template would helpQuote:
Originally Posted by AMD_Freak
Code:
### MB Intelligent Tweaker ###
Advanced Frequency Settings:
CPU Clock Ratio .......................................[ 48
> Advanced CPU Core Features
CPU Clock Ratio .......................................[ 48
Internal CPU PLL Overvoltage...........................[ Enabled
Real Time Ratio Changes In OS .........................[ Disabled
Intel(R) Turbo Boost Tech .............................[ Disabled
Turbo Ratio (Core 1)...................................[ Auto
Turbo Ratio (Core 2)...................................[ Auto
Turbo Ratio (Core 3)...................................[ Auto
Turbo Ratio (Core 4)...................................[ Auto
Turbo Power Limit (Watts)..............................[ Auto
Turbo Current Limit (Amps).............................[ Auto
CPU Cores Enabled ............................ ........[ All
CPU Multi Threading....................................[ Enabled < 2600K Option Not Available With 2500K >
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) ...............................[ Disabled
C3/C6 State Support ...................................[ Disabled
CPU Thermal Monitor ...................................[ Disabled
CPU EIST Function .....................................[ Disabled
Bi-Directional PROCHOT ................................[ Enabled
<
Spread Spectrum .......................................[ Disabled < Ctrl + F1 Option >
BCLK/DMI/PEG Clock Control ............................[ Enabled
BCLK/DMI/PEG Frequency Control ........................[ 104.4
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) ........................[ 21.33
Advanced Memory Settings:
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) ........................[ 21.33
Performance Enhance ...................................[ Extreme
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) ..........................[ Quick
Channel Interleaving ..................................[ Enabled
Rank Interleaving .....................................[ Enabled
Channel A Timing Settings:
##Channel A Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time ......................................[ 8
tRCD ..................................................[ 9
tRP ...................................................[ 8
tRAS ..................................................[ 20
tRC ...................................................[ 2
tRRD ..................................................[ 1
tWTR ..................................................[ 3
tWR ...................................................[ 1
tWTP ..................................................[ 12
tWL ...................................................[ 6
tRFC ..................................................[ 67
tRTP ..................................................[ 3
tFAW ..................................................[ 32
Command Rate (CMD) ....................................[ 1
IO Latency ............................................[ 2 < DIMM Slot 1 & 3 >
Round Trip Latency ....................................[ Auto
Channel B Timing Settings:
##Channel B Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time ......................................[ 8
tRCD ..................................................[ 9
tRP ...................................................[ 8
tRAS ..................................................[ 20
tRC ...................................................[ 2
tRRD ..................................................[ 1
tWTR ..................................................[ 3
tWR ...................................................[ 1
tWTP ..................................................[ 12
tWL ...................................................[ 6
tRFC ..................................................[ 67
tRTP ..................................................[ 3
tFAW ..................................................[ 32
Command Rate (CMD) ....................................[ 1
IO Latency ............................................[ 2 < DIMM Slot 1 & 3 >
Round Trip Latency ....................................[ Auto
Advanced Voltage Control:
CPU
Load Line Calibration .................................[ Level 1
CPU Vcore .............................................[ 1.355
QPI/VTT Voltage 1.050v ................................[ 0.86
System Agent Voltage 0.925v ...........................[ 0.935
PCH Core 1.050v .......................................[ 1.12
CPU PLL 1.800v ........................................[ 1.54
DRAM
DRAM Voltage 1.500v ...................................[ 1.66
DRAM Vref 0.750v ......................................[ Auto
DRAM Termination 0.750v ...............................[ Auto
Ch-A Data VRef. 0.750v ................................[ Auto
Ch-B Data VRef. 0.750v ................................[ Auto
Ch-A Address VRef. 0.750v .............................[ Auto
Ch-B Address VRef. 0.750v .............................[ Auto
Miscellaneous Settings
Isochronous Support ...................................[ Disabled
Virtualization Technology .............................[ Disabled
PnP/PCI Configurations:
PCI Latency Timer (CLK) ...............................[128 < Ctrl + F1 Option >
Sick big bad ass single rail..... like it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiv
C_N:
You said that LLC1 was overvolting when you crossflashed:
Did you try reflashing with the non modded B3 BIOS instead?
Just wondering (wanted to make sure), because I remember someone in the UD7 thread saying that when you crossflash the B2 board to B3, PLL Overvoltage doesn't work at all, until you flash it a second time (with a normal B3 bios).
(I mean it is worth a try...I don't want to post in another forum claiming that B2 and B3 have actual VRM changes unless I'm fully sure...)
Not consciously mate, I flashed from F5x to the latest official B2 BIOS think it was F7 then onto the B3 F3G JZ Mod BIOS then onto the official B3.... F3 Bios. Its funny you mention int pll not working because I remember thinking to myself before working out the voltages needed a PSU power off to set/change properly that I felt maybe int pll had been reduced or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
My chip boots x49 without int pll & it still as far as I can remember booted x50 on the mod BIOS so I figured it worked just not properly :shrug: you convince yourself of allsorts of things when stuff don’t work as you expect it so take what I say/said as it is/my experience rather than proven fact...
I am still on F3G & all is well so whatever caused my initial issue has been resolved, maybe it was because I later flashed to B3 F3 & back to B3 F3G :shrug: im just glad it works now...
Yeah but still that overshoot on LLC1 :(
(I know you flashed with the normal (non modded) F3g, when you went back to it from f3, am I correct?)
Ye still overshoots & ye non modded F3G.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
so it seems like Gigabyte fixed a non disclosed hardware flaw, while Asus didn't (people with p8p pro/deluxe B3's having the same problems they did with B2's....most notably random freezes even with manual vcores....)
No wonder the Asus rep completely vanished from hardforum, after apologizing for vanishing previously....
I'm almost afraid to see what will happen with Z68...
Just tryed to update to latest bios from gigabyte site, but I got update bios failed. Can't start the computer anymore, it start then shutdown right away and start back, shutdown... I try to clear cmos with no luck.
Did you update from BIOS or in windows? You perhaps should have tried the update again following the failure before powering off.Quote:
Originally Posted by autoct
The board is dual BIOS so should have recovered.... I have bent the BIOS on my board a few times & it still recovers well but a failed update may be a different story... I would if you haven’t already strip all the components you can from the board.... extra ram, cd/dvd 2nd video card etc & leave the CMOS/BIOS battery out, it don’t need it to post just to remember things. If the board really wont post or loops you could try forcing it to boot from the backup BIOS chip by shorting pin 1 to ground on the main BIOS chip this should get the board to post on the backup chip.... This is not a recommended method but I've used it several times on my UD5 & she's still ticking.
The most sensible thing to do would probably be to have someone piggy back flash your chip on the board or remove the chip & replace it but if you're anything like me you'll work your own method of recovering out :D
update from windows, but failed at the beginning, I tought there was some kind of safe .Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
GB flat out are the hardest boards ive ever used to bork the bios i would say safety wise GB are the best when it comes to flashing but on the whole the flashing process is a risk for many reason. I think you got unlucky & unknowingly added to the problem when u rebooted.
Can you say more, how to short that pin and where is it.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Thank you for helping
Picture borrowed from Clunks UD5 reviewQuote:
Originally Posted by autoct
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur...:0&tx=62&ty=84
You can see the lower chip is the M BIOS & the arrow to pin 1.... I just shoved a small screwdriver in-between pin 1 & its neighbour which forces the board to change chip & try to post on B BIOS.
Don’t do it if you are not comfortable messing around.... this is not an approved recovery method, your safest option is to RMA or have a pro fix it.
thank you but, it didn't work. the computer boot for less than a sec before shutting downQuote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Oh well, it was still worth a try... I guess you are going to have to send the board off for repair.Quote:
Originally Posted by autoct
The board will boot loop to change BIOS chip just like it does sometimes when you get stuff wrong & it posts OC failed or chip corrupt. I have severely bent my UD5 BIOS 3 times, twice I recovered it within 1/2 hour & once took 1/2 the day. I also have a post diagnostic card so could tell I was making progress as the display would get further & further until I got into BIOS. If you don’t have a diagnostic card id say it will be very difficult.
Please try THIS that was posted over on tweaktown also:
----------------
It is possible to make the BIOS Auto-Recovery kick in (Dual BIOS) and re-flash the MAIN BIOS with the contents of the BACKUP BIOS.
This is a simple and easy method for anyone to try before having to resort to other more difficult methods, or a RMA.
1. Shut off the power supply using the switch on the back of the PSU, wait 10-15 seconds.
2. Press and hold the case Power On swtich, then while still holding turn on the power supply from the switch on the rear.
3. Still holding the case power on switch, the board will start, once it does release the case power on switch and shut off the power supply via the switch on the read of the unit. (Do the latter two parts as quickly as you can once the board starts)
4. The board will shut down.
5. Turn the power supply back on using the switch on the rear of the unit.
6. Turn on the motherboard by pressing the case power on button.
Once the board starts this time you should see the Gigabyte splash screen, or POST page, then the Auto-Recovery from Dual BIOS will kick in. You will see a checksum error, and then recovery from BACKUP BIOS will begin. Once it is done reboot your machine and enter the BIOS and load optimized defaults then save/apply/reboot back to BIOS.
Now you are done, and will be using whatever BIOS was in your BACKUP BIOS, From there you can attempt whatever you were previously trying, or update your BIOS to the latest version.
===========
Also, why did you use @bios to update the bios?
That's been the primary cause of a lot of bricked boards... Flashing in windows and then something goes wrong. You should always use FlashSPI with a DOS boot flash drive to update the BIOS as this is 100% safe and working, and even worked on the original release of the B2 bios (where it was claimed that flashSPI didnt work-when it was qflash that didn't work until after the board was updated to something qflash could recognize).
Anyway, try that thing. If the board recovers, use a flash bootable drive and use the HP storage format tool to format a usb flash drive, and you can grab the windows 98 startup files to make it bootable with it. A search (I think the link was posted here) should bring up a link along with the 98 startup files too. Useful utility.
BTW, C_N's method should have worked. Perhaps you weren't shorting the pins correctly? They are extremely small...
I will try this tomorrow morning, I used @bios because I never had trouble in the past, I was thinking if they still offer this method, it shouldn't be so bad, and what can happen at worst I have the bios recovery. Now I've learned.
The board shut down after max 1 sec, no beep nothing, and try to boot again. The fans starts but they don't have enough time to get to there full speed before it shut down.
Yes, you have to shut down the board with the PSU switch while holding the case power button before it shuts down itself. One second is rather fast...
Should be a way to short the primary bios, though. Those pins are really small...probably could use a mini screwdriver.
Hooked up my new OCZ monster and its been awesome so far. No more squeel when i play a 3D game. Its dead silent compared to my old one. Board booted up perfectly fine even after i replaced the PSU which is awesome. VOltages have been better, 3.3v was going up to 3.44 under load before, now its like 3.32 and its nor moving much actually even under load. So far so good !
Turbo, are your issues fixed? What did you change?
also never trust software readouts please, use a DMM to check REAL voltage!
Congrats on the beast PSU Turbo :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiv
PSU good but I still got the overclocked failed screen... LOL
I replaced everything so far except the CPU. Still waiting for my Sandy certified memories tho. These 1333mhz are still P55 certified so there is still small hope...
It did not work, I guess, I don't have enough time, also tryed shorting pin again but no luckQuote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
Im also going to replace my video card soon. So really, the only thing connected to the mobo that was not replaced was my DVD writer and my hard disks...
if you want to boot of backup bios you need to short pin 6 & 7 on primary bios. Those are middle pins on the opposite side of where the white market is (white market usually points to pin1)
Hope that works for autoCT. Should work fine as long as his backup isn't damaged.
well my PC rebooted this AM after almost 2 weeks running no "Overclocked failed" or 3 boot loop it only cycled 1 time never had that happen before. booted up with same oc with LLC1 on
Thank you all for helping but I RMA the board yesterday
I noticed that i get a high pitched noise upon boot for like 1 second, when this happens than i get the overclock failed screen. Im guessing this is the PSU, because with the old PSU i never got that noise, just the screen upon boot...
new beta CPUz for GBT boards should read vcore better
http://filefactory.com/file/cbd369d/n/cpuz_vcore2.zip
i thought you had the black and yellow themed cpuz...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
thanks still anyways woot
hahaha that would be so gangsta :rofl:
Just tried to use this board in a built and man is it EVER warped. Its warped so bad you can't use the PS/2 port and the two top USB ports at ALL.
That's impossible. Check the mounting holes. A board can't be warped that badly unless it's not mounted correctly. Any slight warping would be fixed once in the case. This is user error here, unless the I/O panel itself is somehow not properly on the board. Did you put it correctly through the I/O shield?
All standoffs are proper as per case and all secured properly as well.
I've built many machines and never had a problem. I pulled the board out and the board itself is SEVERELY warped.
You can't use the top two usb ports and the only way to lower them down is by pushing on the ps2 port on the inside of the case.
Case?
Is it the board itself that's warped or bad soldering of the I/O panel?
(like, it looks like the bottom left side of the panel is higher than the right side)
Because I know there is a screwhole JUST below that PS/2 port. And if that screw hole is completely down, the port should be flush (even with a warped board), since it's right above the screwhole. You can't have a warp there...it would have to be the panel itself is too high or warped), otherwise you would have difficulties just getting the screw flush with the screwhole.
Do you see what I mean?I'd love to see a pic of that board outside the case...I'm at my brain's limits....UNLESS the warp exists in the half inch between the screwhole and the edge of the board?
So I'm guessing the screwhole isn't even flush on that side...
hey men :) getting back my ud5 today. What is the fav bios so far?
I like f5x with the b2 board and currently on f3g the b3 bios with my b2 board for me its a little funky setting voltages & ahci makes it post so fast its a bit tricky getting in bios but it runs just fine.
Btw awesome chip & hyper runs in the 32m thread
im gonna switch to UD5 board again, probably my fav board out of all of them
you using some B3 bios? performance similar?
Top board mate for me the b3 bios on my b2 board is as good as all the b2 bios's. Havent pushed to the max but 5/5.5g performance looks just fine.
I think that high pitched alarm noise that comes up for 1 second on boot was because of my video card. The 4 pin molex was loose(probly didint plugged it firmly when replacing PSUs) and the card was talking to me. :)
PS; Overclcok failed screens still continuing...
Can you set your ram to 13.33 manually and see if it happens?
And did you get your new RAM yet? I thought you got it...
thankyou seems the hypers REALLY come alive on ud5. 1.18vCCIO 1.72vDIMM :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
No wazza and 3dOS only lsc and maxmem
Nice chip there splave, will it prime at that vcore.
He's not using 1.57.1. That voltage is his VTT
There have been a few working cpu-z 1.57.1 links floating around.
Yeah, post #962 from Dino orQuote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4668167/cpuz_1.57.1.zip
Yah too easy splave ;)
Ah that would make sense. My L040B208 is still kickin at 1.375 prime stable at 5G.:D
UD5 Rocks my friend, waiting on you getting medieval on its ass mate, you got a killer chip & hypers that run & skills that = pure danger :D smash it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Splave
No doubt, that why where here.
TBH I ordered a UD7 but the shop fcuked up & I ended up witha 5..... I didnt need a 7 just there was only like £40 between boards & I figured wth. As luck would have it the UD5 is rocking & can easily max all my kit out so once again fait is on my side great board :DQuote:
Originally Posted by flesheatinvirus
Yup I almost did the same thing. Money is not a problem and I usually grab the best hardware but decided on the 5 and never looked back. :banana::banana::banana::banana: I am still using my older one and never turned it in for the replacement as this board can max every chip without issue. I have three liquid systems in this room alone and have the hardware for at least two more full builds if and when I choose. Great board indeed.:up:
You not wrong buddy you got some killer 3d scores with the UD5..... cant be bad :up:
I know its crazy! I'll take a pic tomorrow when I'm at work again and post it here for folks to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
Just to thank-you guys for the beta bios help...the f3g bios has fixed the cold boot issues on my ud5 b3....thanks for ths bios and the help guys...It has been booting fine for two weeks now:)
gj..!Quote:
Originally Posted by splave
Here is the side shot of the board.. Even when I place ALL the screws into this thing.. I STILL have to physically push the board down to align the PS2/USB ports on this thing.. its THAT warped. :(
Got some cheap sticks to see what psc was like :D
the 8-10 clocking is pretty good but looks like only F7E bios can do high enough bclk.
it boots straight from 100 to 108.3 (108.1) although my sticks have tRCD 10 problems before that.
think it was the last B2 beta
same setup max bclk 105.7-9 on other bios, tested with the B3 bioses as well but not good for bclk here.
4x2GB Exceleram Speedslider :up:
close to tRCD 10 clocking limit.
1.50 Aida for consistency with earlier stuff
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/q...7E_EXE_8GB.png
not sure if someone already posted this bug on mem multi.
i got it a couple of times trying to boot to higher bclk straight from 100.
on both b2/b3 bios. is there a secret way to run 24x on GB ?
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/q...2400_BUG_1.jpg
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/q...2400_BUG_2.jpg
Didn't notice any BCLK limits with any of the BIOS's, think the max I've done is 107.X only thing is some BIOS's are a bit rebooty to get higher BCLK's to catch... sometimes if say 105 fails try 104.9 or 105.1 & it works!!Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapseats
Nice bit of work & info comparing the Hypers to PSC over in the 2D Madness thread :up:
^ my findings are exactly the same.
PS. Thanks C-N for the bios suggestion, chip booted 5827 for the first time on any board last night!
what is the trick for Hyper? mine doesn't work, max 1650/1700MHz,
Dominator GT 1866 & UD5 B3 bios F3G
Rams just need to be GOOD hyper and they run easy. I have 2 kits that dont do 2000 and one that does 2200 it just has to be good sticks
cheers mate :)Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
on the bclk, i mean how far it will go before i get completely stuck @ OC recovery or it just wipes cmos.
i get a full 2mhz higher on F7E before any problem with booting :up:
OK so, with my 4.9 Ghz 24/7 settings i lowered the multi directly to 46 and its still giving overclcoked failed screen. Internal PLL enabled, 13.33 mem multi. There is definately some kind of incompatibility. Im also still waiting for my new memories.
all that stuff went away with f3g on mine....been fine ever since...
need help .... i have flashed the bios of my ud5 to a newer one ...board is still the b2 stepping ... while running benchmark, it hang and rebooted ...during reboot the boardis trying to flash to its backup bios but was not able to complete it since another reboot happened...after that now the bord will just turned on for 1-2 sec, then off then on then off..endless on/off and will not be able to POST ... is my board dead already? any way to force it to use the backup bios ? is there a way to revice this board? please help as i am in the middle of oc contest locally here and this board is the best i have right now
sir bart ito po
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=957
@hondaycity ...thanks a lot sir! will try later in the evening again :D am using the gigabyte ud5 board for MOA 2011 Ph qualifier hehe ... thanks again !