Rotary Fitting leaking!! Suggestions needed.

So yes, A rotary has started leaking. Didn't notice till I opened the case to take a look and found the liquid level really low. I panicked and wiped off the dry dye surrounding the leak so it doesn't seem as bad as it was. Thankfully, it's leaking on the outer side of the fitting instead of the side facing the card.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ingRotary2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ingRotary3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ingRotary4.jpg


Those are Feser 9017s aka 8mm ID, 11m OD 90 degree rotaries (1/4" Thread Rotary Right Angle Compression Fitting for 8mm ID - 11mm OD Tubing 4 Pack : Feser)
http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=320
http://www.feser-one.com/site/images/fi-9017-p.jpg


Apparently, it's leaking from both the G1/4 thread area and the rotary portion. Ironically, this is a fitting I would least expect to leak as it's in a rather 'slack' part of the loop.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...opFullshot.jpg
(yes, I use multiple tubing types with Feser one black. Not recommended but no coagulation though :ROTF:)




Solutions solutions. I definitely cannot use a straight 1/4" barb there.
There simply isn't enough space.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ingRotary1.jpg

So, do I get another pack of Feser 9017s? (aftr all, the 7 out of 8 fittings still work fine.)

or do I get another 90 degree rotary? The enzotech ones?
http://www.enzotechnology.com/rcps_g14_14_90.htm

http://www.enzotechnology.com/images/rcps_g14_14_90.gif

It's not a compression though. but it looks less likely to develop the same problem?

Also, I can't get any of these here so I'll need to ship it from the US or UK again. Will need to get more 1/4" tubing as well at the same time. Tygon B-44-4X sounds good? Soft enough unlike the damned silver tubing?

Thanks

(P.S I'm running an OCed QX6700 and OCed 5870 on a single 120mm feser rad!!!!)












Just joking. Its actually 2 X 120mm. the other is outside

From what i've heard from others, rotaries might leak when they get skewed by force with eg improperly bended tubing/or some component weighting on tubing attached to that rotary. No skewing/bending of rotary = usually no leaks.

Given the way the tubing is routed there you'd be much better off with a 45-deg elbow fitting rather than a 90-deg elbow. I've also had several bad experiences with leaking compressions from manufacturers other than Bitspower - BP rotaries are the only ones I'll use now, and I've not had a problem yet in about six loop builds for client PCs. They are expensive, yes, but for peace of mind I'm prepared to pay extra.

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Originally Posted by churchy

From what i've heard from others, rotaries might leak when they get skewed by force with eg improperly bended tubing/or some component weighting on tubing attached to that rotary. No skewing/bending of rotary = usually no leaks.

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yes. That is indeed true. but in this case, it's pretty slack and yet has leaked. I presume that once it leaks, it's a goner?

and 45 degrees might work. though with the fan directly over the fittings, it could be real tight. but I haven't seen any 45 degree 1/4" rotaries around.

as for bitspower, hasn't there been cases where it's leaked as well? (complaints about loosening of the rotary and then leaks)
http://www.google.com.sg/search?sour...rotary+leaking
Warranties aren't gonna work here as they'll be shipped overseas. besides, I must say that 12 USD is REALLY high for a simple fitting that's made in china. Those fesers cost bout 11 pounds a pack of 4. I'm not sure how much a meal at macdonald's or subway costs in the US but I'm pretty sure it costs less than a single feser rotary. The high price may simply be... a lack of competition?

Personally, I've never had problems with compressions. Even those low end innovatek ones which were more of 10/8mm instead of 11/8mm worked pretty well. More of rotaries being the problem. caught a couple of them leaking at the start but they were fixed with proper placement of tubing.

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Originally Posted by churchy

From what i've heard from others, rotaries might leak when they get skewed by force with eg improperly bended tubing/or some component weighting on tubing attached to that rotary. No skewing/bending of rotary = usually no leaks.

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yep. caught a couple of them when I started my loop. but I fixed them with proper placement of tubing. but that particular one was fine till now. (it looks pretty slack isn't it?)

Thats not a rotary. Thats a 90 deg compression fitting. Rotaries have an extra twist spot in the middle. Anyhoo, look at the BP rotaries or just the BP filttings like the one you have.

I've had BP fittings leak personally when there was tension on the line. That said, they are pretty solid when there isn't a lot of force on them. Currently I'm using enzo 45 rotaries and they are rock solid also... On your gpu block can you switch the plug to the other side and use regular compressions.

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Originally Posted by Conumdrum

Thats not a rotary. Thats a 90 deg compression fitting. Rotaries have an extra twist spot in the middle. Anyhoo, look at the BP rotaries or just the BP filttings like the one you have.

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It's a rotary.

http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=320

it says rotary on the page. unless I made such a serious mistake as to buy a 90 degree fitting that wasn't a rotary, Install it in my loop and proceeded to twist it like a rotary thus causing the metal to break and the coolant to seep out.
I've seen the BP ones. The price puts me off. Could get like 3 meals at macdonalds here for the price of one :ROTF:

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Originally Posted by Vinas

I've had BP fittings leak personally when there was tension on the line. That said, they are pretty solid when there isn't a lot of force on them. Currently I'm using enzo 45 rotaries and they are rock solid also... On your gpu block can you switch the plug to the other side and use regular compressions.

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ah. Well, i didn't put much force on mine too and it still seeped out. what a bummer.

45 degree enzos? Too bad they don't have 1/4" love. But i'd be willing to try the 90 degree enzos even though they're not compressions and they look silly. build quality looks decent. Do they wobble around when pushed? How's it secured? I mostly have experience with compressions only. DO you cable tie them?

as for switching it over, that's a no go. The fan sits directly above both fittings. tried the straight compression barb. No go. not even with 1/4" tubing. Seen any 45 degree 1/4" rotaries around?


btw, I must note that the most secure rotary in my loop happens to be my 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD one.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...at=1619&page=1
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/file...bs/62148_0.jpg

Bizarrely, It's an el cheapo no name, roughly finished, industrial looking one that does the job surprisingly well. That rotary is under a hella lot of stress yet doesn't budge at all. oh my..... they don't have the 1/4" version though darn... I'd get a handful of them.

Use Bitspower rotary compressions.

Such as this double rotary:

http://members.cox.net/danco/BP-45R2CPF-CC5_01.jpg

Or this triple rotary:

http://members.cox.net/danco/BP-90R2CPF-CC5_01.jpg

But in your tubing size.

I know, I know, you'd rather eat at McDonalds...

I stick with teh BP's and have had zero issues with mine when no force is applied to them. I have only had one BP rotary leak and that was caused by me being a fool when messing around with a HD and snagging the line.

It's funny how everyone recommends BP rotaries even though they were the first to start leaking and we still see topics about them leaking pop up from time to time. The only rotary fittings I don't recall seeing a "help, my rotaries are leaking" topic about are Koolance. I could be wrong on that but honestly, I really don't recall seeing any "leaking" topics about them. :shrug: If I'm wrong, please link me.

Yea, I remember seeing a bp rotary leak thread around here a few weeks ago. Anyways, I ordered a hand full of bp rotaries from ppcs a little while back for my upcoming build. If I have any leaky ones, would it be better to deal with ppcs or directly with bp to get replacement/s?

Sorry if this is a bit OT.

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

It's funny how everyone recommends BP rotaries even though they were the first to start leaking and we still see topics about them leaking pop up from time to time. ...

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because if you make things shiny enough.. people are willing to forgive and forget. :p:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

It's funny how everyone recommends BP rotaries...

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I have seen pictures of horrible corrosion with Koolance fittings and also someone complaining about them possibly being steel instead of brass underneath. Strange stuff.

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

It's funny how everyone recommends BP rotaries even though they were the first to start leaking and we still see topics about them leaking pop up from time to time. The only rotary fittings I don't recall seeing a "help, my rotaries are leaking" topic about are Koolance. I could be wrong on that but honestly, I really don't recall seeing any "leaking" topics about them. :shrug: If I'm wrong, please link me.

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koolance fittings dont have threads becuase no one buys them:yepp::ROTF:

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Originally Posted by astrodanco

I have seen pictures of horrible corrosion with Koolance fittings and also someone complaining about them possibly being steel instead of brass underneath. Strange stuff.

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From how long ago? I know in my case, it was left over stock that was not returned to Koolance from P-PCs and Koolance was more than quick enough to swap out at no charge to me. I have no problem ordering any of Koolance's fittings without any reservations at all.

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Originally Posted by NKrader

koolance fittings dont have threads becuase no one buys them:yepp::ROTF:

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Just goes to show that the majority of water coolers are nothing more than a bunch of Lemmings when it comes to fittings. ;)

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Just goes to show that the majority of water coolers are nothing more than a bunch of Lemmings when it comes to fittings. ;)

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hah everyone is lemmings with everything... look how many ipad sell.. :shrug:

I was also afraid about my 45ºC rotaries (TFC ones...) but fortunately for me, they don't leak. I think that you should try to buy new ones, you may get better luck...because Bitspower in Europe is ridiculously expensive.


PS: how the heck do you have all of that with only a 120mm rad?????????

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Originally Posted by prava

PS: how the heck do you have all of that with only a 120mm rad?????????

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You see 2 tubes goes out on back... prob rad back mounted

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Originally Posted by Fatfool

ah. Well, i didn't put much force on mine too and it still seeped out. what a bummer.

45 degree enzos? Too bad they don't have 1/4" love. But i'd be willing to try the 90 degree enzos even though they're not compressions and they look silly. build quality looks decent. Do they wobble around when pushed? How's it secured? I mostly have experience with compressions only. DO you cable tie them?

btw, I must note that the most secure rotary in my loop happens to be my 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD one.

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My apologies, I should have mentioned that I've only used the enzo compressions and 45 rotaries. Both have been top notch, I'd put them up against my BP's which is a pleasant surprise! :up: I've pulled very hard on the enzo 45 to see if I could make it leak. No leaks so I'd recommend them to anyone -- if you can find enzos in the size you need. TO be completely honest, the BP style compressions have a better finish IMHO. You would have to be very picky (and I am) to notice. I've asked several people that have seen my rig and no one can tell the difference (but me).

I think this is because the BP's are silver plated whereas the enzo's are nickel? :shrug: For the price difference, enzo are the best price performance ration I've used. :p:

That 90 you showed looks like a koolance... Does it have a red o ring?

Have you tried contacting Feser? Maybe they can give you a replacement.

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Originally Posted by Fatfool

It's a rotary.

http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=320

it says rotary on the page. unless I made such a serious mistake as to buy a 90 degree fitting that wasn't a rotary, Install it in my loop and proceeded to twist it like a rotary thus causing the metal to break and the coolant to seep out.
I've seen the BP ones. The price puts me off. Could get like 3 meals at macdonalds here for the price of one :ROTF:

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It's not a rotary. A rotary lets you swivle it AFTER you tighten the oring down. The BP's ones in the pic here have a seperate ring that allows it to rotate. The Feser doen't besides it a pure 90 degree, and the inside is much more restrictive than the BP ones.

Feser says rotary, but it's not in my book. Typical Feser.

Where it's leaking looks more like a hose size problem.

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Thankfully, it's leaking on the outer side of the fitting instead of the side facing the card.

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After you locate the problem with the leak, be sure to take that block off your video card and check for water just to be safe.

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Originally Posted by Conumdrum

It's not a rotary. A rotary lets you swivle it AFTER you tighten the oring down. The BP's ones in the pic here have a seperate ring that allows it to rotate. The Feser doen't besides it a pure 90 degree, and the inside is much more restrictive than the BP ones.

Feser says rotary, but it's not in my book. Typical Feser.

Where it's leaking looks more like a hose size problem.

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They are indeed rotaries, and that is why they leak, as when pressure is applied they lose balance and the o-ring (the one that allows to rotate it) stops working properly and there you go: a leak.

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Originally Posted by astrodanco

Use Bitspower rotary compressions.

Such as this double rotary:

http://members.cox.net/danco/BP-45R2CPF-CC5_01.jpg

Or this triple rotary:

http://members.cox.net/danco/BP-90R2CPF-CC5_01.jpg

But in your tubing size.

I know, I know, you'd rather eat at McDonalds...

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To be honest, other than the cost, I'm quite apprehensive as that sort of rotary actually has even more chance to leak.... (more rotary joints after all)

Full cover block - 100 USD
Rotary Fitting - 20 USD

Something's wrong here. Sure both aren't mass produced parts and both are targeted at enthusiasts but that kind of price comparison shows the absurdity of the price of a fitting. Full cover blocks obviously demand higher investment and time to design. Those C & C machines aren't cheap to rent either. But fittings manufacture?
Reason? Full cover blocks are produced in different and completing designs by ~ 10 companies. they range from ~80 USD (eg XSPC) to 120 USD (eg watercool) for single GPU blocks.
Rotaries have like ~ 3 companies making em'. Plus it's the focus product of 1 of them and that company dominates the market. For the other 2, it's a sort of side business.

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Originally Posted by Vinas

My apologies, I should have mentioned that I've only used the enzo compressions and 45 rotaries. Both have been top notch, I'd put them up against my BP's which is a pleasant surprise! :up: I've pulled very hard on the enzo 45 to see if I could make it leak. No leaks so I'd recommend them to anyone -- if you can find enzos in the size you need. TO be completely honest, the BP style compressions have a better finish IMHO. You would have to be very picky (and I am) to notice. I've asked several people that have seen my rig and no one can tell the difference (but me).

I think this is because the BP's are silver plated whereas the enzo's are nickel? :shrug: For the price difference, enzo are the best price performance ration I've used. :p:

That 90 you showed looks like a koolance... Does it have a red o ring?

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I see. Well, that's good. Generally, I haven't had any problems with vanilla compression fittings so far. The only rotary enzo I can find in my size is the 90 degree 1/4" ones. but that'll do. How do I attach the hose to the barb securely? any herbie clips?

BPs are silver plated?! didn't know that... won't it tarnish? And if that's why it's so expensive (to manufacture, the silver should be negligible), then shouldn't their matt black ones be cheaper? But no? those are even more expensive haha. I generally don't give a damn about the plating so long as it's not something silly and reactive. Never had any corrosion anyway. I prefer pre mixed coolants instead of messing around with distilled and PT nuke so I guess that helps.

Did i mention that the case doesn't have window? :)

That 90 degree 1/2" rotary doesn't have a red o ring. It came in a plastic packet. the sticker on the packet is in Deutsch. Number 62138




Lemme start making a list of stuff to order.. maybe I'll get 6 enzo rotaries. Gotta plan as I'm using a freight forwarder to ship it half the way across the globe. Living on a small island in an unknown part of the world has its disadvantages. Thankfully the currency isn't that far from the USD. 1 USD = 1.3 SGD.

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Originally Posted by Conumdrum

It's not a rotary. A rotary lets you swivle it AFTER you tighten the oring down. The BP's ones in the pic here have a seperate ring that allows it to rotate. The Feser doen't besides it a pure 90 degree, and the inside is much more restrictive than the BP ones.

Feser says rotary, but it's not in my book. Typical Feser.

Where it's leaking looks more like a hose size problem.

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http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=244290

Oh come on it is a rotary. just a very leaky one that leaks from both the rotary area and the thread area.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Fullshot-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...aryfitting.jpg


There's even that one that rotates on its own when the case door is opened and shut.

Hose problem? can't be. I'm using it for 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD tygon tubing. the rest of the fitting's don't leak like this.

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Originally Posted by prava

I was also afraid about my 45ºC rotaries (TFC ones...) but fortunately for me, they don't leak. I think that you should try to buy new ones, you may get better luck...because Bitspower in Europe is ridiculously expensive.


PS: how the heck do you have all of that with only a 120mm rad?????????

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if it's expensive in europe, imagine how expensive it'll be if I buy it from the US and then ship it half way across the world to south east asia. Then imagine how much more it costs to me as we earn say about 1/2 to 1/3 of what a typical west european would earn. :ROTF:

sure the taxes ain't that high and income rates aren't as low as developing countries like China and India but you get the idea.

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Originally Posted by Blueking

You see 2 tubes goes out on back... prob rad back mounted

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yep. there's another 120mm feser behind there.

I figured that I'd either be playing games (load on the 5870) or encoding (load on the QX6700). not both at the same time so why not allow some load balancing instead of going for like a 240 or 360. the temps should be fine if I don't do some silly stress test on both the proc and the card. I was right :)

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Originally Posted by rootz0r

Have you tried contacting Feser? Maybe they can give you a replacement.

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Done that. First reply:

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What kind of block is this? I think the block does not have the right g1/4 thread.

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:hm:

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Originally Posted by Fatfool

(yes, I use multiple tubing types with Feser one black. Not recommended but no coagulation though :ROTF:)

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You mean you're using Feser One Purple. ;) And good luck getting the stains out it'll leave in your MicroRes. Had to trash one after using the same crap a couple of years ago.

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Originally Posted by lennox

After you locate the problem with the leak, be sure to take that block off your video card and check for water just to be safe.

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Problem has been located. I've run my finger on the other side of the fitting. All's clear. no liquid marks either. the feser one black leaves a lot of dye when it flows and dries up so I'm safe :)

Still using the comp because of this haha!

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Originally Posted by Fatfool

Done that. First reply:


:hm:

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Don't you know? There are Feser G1/4 threads and then everyone else's G1/4 threads. :p: :ROTF:

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Originally Posted by Humminn55

You mean you're using Feser One Purple. ;) And good luck getting the stains out it'll leave in your MicroRes. Had to trash one after using the same crap a couple of years ago.

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it says black but yeah. it looks like a very dark purple.

So far so good on the micro res. the liquid level has dropped but there hasn't been a stain.

On my GPU block (EK 5850) you must use a spacer or a fitting with a stubby thread on the copper side. The reason being that the thread on that side is shorter. Maybe someone can expand on this, I'm not exactly an expert.

I don't know if this helps but thought I would mention it as my block was leaking in the exact same place until I used a spacer.

As far as replacements go, a (Bitspower) "cube" elbow fitting might be small enough even when combined with a mini dual-male G1/4" adaptor.

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Originally Posted by NKrader

koolance fittings dont have threads becuase no one buys them:yepp::ROTF:

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All the comp fittings on my setup are koolance, btw. No Problems and its been running for about 6 months now.

Anyway back on topic...

...Yeah, um, Feser basically just said "STFU, noob." :p:

2 small things to add..

You mentioned something about a rotary that moves when you open the case door, yes they're called rotaries and yes they move, that doesn't mean I'd want any of mine moving all the time and expect none to ever leak. They're convenient in that you may change your mind on the direction you need them to face or something like that but to just be moving them or even just 1 all the time I don't think I'd chance it. (I know your problem fitting probably isn't moved I'm just speaking generally).

I was a complete beginner and went with all bitspower compressions/rotaries and I'm sure I was much harder on them than I should have been trying to get everything how I wanted it. Tweaking and removing and bending and what have you and I've never had 1 leak that wasn't completely my fault (not tightening fitting enough or fitting became loose when trying to move a rotary counter-clockwise after loop is filled). Yes they're expensive but so far they seem worth it to me (newbie proof and no leaks after many rebuilds).

Good luck.

Edit: Probably too late for a change but I went with 20 noctuas and just recently changed to 20 s-flex F's, I love them. You can turn them down to where they push more air than noctuas and they have nearly the same noise signature and most importantly they're not horribly ugly. If you like the look of them disregard, if you don't care that once you put a grill or something in front of them they practically stop pushing anything but a hint of air disregard.

next Reply:

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I think danger den blocks are with Bspp 1/4 which is not exactly like G1/4"

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http://mypetjawa.mu.nu/archives/picard-facepalm.jpg

You have to be careful with some of the rotary fittings - at each rotary connection there is a small o-ring inside there, which may leak if you put too much force on the fitting, which would end up tilting the connection just enough that it would break the seal with the o-ring and case a leak.

If you're set on using rotary compression fittings, look no further than the BitsPower range of fittings - these are by far the best rotary/compression fittings available on the market today, and as said above, you really shouldn't have problems with leakage if you put a bit of force on the fitting via the tubing

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Originally Posted by Orangey

On my GPU block (EK 5850) you must use a spacer or a fitting with a stubby thread on the copper side. The reason being that the thread on that side is shorter. Maybe someone can expand on this, I'm not exactly an expert.

I don't know if this helps but thought I would mention it as my block was leaking in the exact same place until I used a spacer.

As far as replacements go, a (Bitspower) "cube" elbow fitting might be small enough even when combined with a mini dual-male G1/4" adaptor.

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I compared the feser fitting with the 1/4" straight barb fitting the danger den block with. It definitely has a shorter thread. (as in the threading extends more for the danger den fittings.

as for the cube, it's this one?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22950
It's not a rotary though...

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Originally Posted by mbreslin

2 small things to add..

You mentioned something about a rotary that moves when you open the case door, yes they're called rotaries and yes they move, that doesn't mean I'd want any of mine moving all the time and expect none to ever leak. They're convenient in that you may change your mind on the direction you need them to face or something like that but to just be moving them or even just 1 all the time I don't think I'd chance it. (I know your problem fitting probably isn't moved I'm just speaking generally).

I was a complete beginner and went with all bitspower compressions/rotaries and I'm sure I was much harder on them than I should have been trying to get everything how I wanted it. Tweaking and removing and bending and what have you and I've never had 1 leak that wasn't completely my fault (not tightening fitting enough or fitting became loose when trying to move a rotary counter-clockwise after loop is filled). Yes they're expensive but so far they seem worth it to me (newbie proof and no leaks after many rebuilds).

Good luck.

Edit: Probably too late for a change but I went with 20 noctuas and just recently changed to 20 s-flex F's, I love them. You can turn them down to where they push more air than noctuas and they have nearly the same noise signature and most importantly they're not horribly ugly. If you like the look of them disregard, if you don't care that once you put a grill or something in front of them they practically stop pushing anything but a hint of air disregard.

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Yep. I was worried about that moving rotary as well. I started a thread on it too But all seems fine for now.

as for bitspower fittings, too expensive in my opinion. If I really had to use bitspower only, I'd rather trash my entire liquid cooling loop, buy another 5870 and crossfire it on air. Gonna try Enzotech this time.

as for the noctuas, yep weird colour. I have 2 S-Flex 1600 RPM for my case too. they'll probably do better on my rads but I like bizarre stuff. :) Gotta have those grills there. Not gonna lose part of my finger to them. There's one on the back radiator too. Dangerous to move the case around if there's an exposed fan at the back. Btw, this casing has wheels so I often move it around and open it even when it's running.

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Originally Posted by ButtSprinkles

All the comp fittings on my setup are koolance, btw. No Problems and its been running for about 6 months now.

Anyway back on topic...

...Yeah, um, Feser basically just said "STFU, noob." :p:

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Koolance seems a little icky to me.... not sure why but the brand has never seemed favourable. it seems like 'ZOMG LOOK AT ME', you know.... attention whoring. But I may be wrong. They don't have rotaries too.

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Originally Posted by Sneaky

You have to be careful with some of the rotary fittings - at each rotary connection there is a small o-ring inside there, which may leak if you put too much force on the fitting, which would end up tilting the connection just enough that it would break the seal with the o-ring and case a leak.

If you're set on using rotary compression fittings, look no further than the BitsPower range of fittings - these are by far the best rotary/compression fittings available on the market today, and as said above, you really shouldn't have problems with leakage if you put a bit of force on the fitting via the tubing

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yep. I've figure out how those rotaries work now. but that fitting is definitely leaky. shifting it around doesn't solve that break in the O ring so it's probably toast.

I'm pretty sure bitspower are the best. but even they leak. (though probably a lower chance). I'll be taking my chances with enzotech and herbie clips.

Any rotary is going to leak if one abuses it. They're not wheels. They're not meant to be rotated often.

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Originally Posted by astrodanco

Any rotary is going to leak if one abuses it. They're not wheels. They're not meant to be rotated often.

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YES I KNOW. but that fitting that moves is not the problematic one. the leaking ones are those which don't move and are connected to my FC block and CPU block.

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Originally Posted by Fatfool

Koolance seems a little icky to me.... not sure why but the brand has never seemed favourable. it seems like 'ZOMG LOOK AT ME', you know.... attention whoring. But I may be wrong. They don't have rotaries too.

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Then I guess these are figments of the imagination.;)

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...=&inc_subcat=1

(Pardon some of the flaky search results)

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Then I guess these are figments of the imagination.;)

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...=&inc_subcat=1

(Pardon some of the flaky search results)

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Okay. their term is 'swivelling elbow'. me bad! but arg! no compression ones. only quick disconnects.

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Originally Posted by Fatfool

Okay. their term is 'swivelling elbow'. me bad! but arg! no compression ones. only quick disconnects.

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Koolance does things the simple way, this way they keep their SKU numbers low. Simply mix/match/add a fitting/compression to any swivel fitting you want and you can achieve the same effect as any BP.

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Koolance does things the simple way, this way they keep their SKU numbers low. Simply mix/match/add a fitting/compression to any swivel fitting you want and you can achieve the same effect as any BP.

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You forgot the last line.

'At an even higher price than BP':ROTF:

just use duct tape.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

It's funny how everyone recommends BP rotaries even though they were the first to start leaking and we still see topics about them leaking pop up from time to time. The only rotary fittings I don't recall seeing a "help, my rotaries are leaking" topic about are Koolance. I could be wrong on that but honestly, I really don't recall seeing any "leaking" topics about them. :shrug: If I'm wrong, please link me.

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:p:
http://forums.koolance.com/download/file.php?id=178

Koolance Tim responds

"Fittings with multiple o-rings have more areas of potential failure. We have taken steps to improve their reliability. The largest change has been in switching to EPDM rubber (black) o-rings from the earlier silicone (red). It makes swiveling joints a little harder to rotate and QDCs a bit harder to connect/disconnect, but the material is more robust. We have also reduced fit tolerance on many fittings.

Our EPDM o-rings are available separately on our website, but not all types of fittings can be serviced in that way. Later angled nozzles and female QDC fittings are permanently sealed. Generally, the internal o-ring material will match the thread collar o-ring (which is visible)."
http://forums.koolance.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1467

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Simply mix/match/add a fitting/compression to any swivel fitting you want and you can achieve the same effect as any BP.

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I disagree. A single fitting that combines compression with rotary is not the at all the same as screwing a compression fitting into a rotary fitting. A single fitting that combines barb with rotary is not at all the same as screwing a barb fitting into a rotary fitting. It doesn't take very much thought about the mechanics of the situation (tube torque causing the separate fittings to unscrew from each other) to realize that either. This is why Bitspower makes barbs and compressions with built-in rotaries. They're not just trying to create specialized parts where multiple parts connected together would do just as well. Multiple parts connected together would NOT do just as well in this case. Fittings with built-in rotaries and fittings which combine multiple functions into a single fitting are a a real breath of fresh air.

Also integrated ones are cheaper then one you make with screwing in compression or barb into rotary. I don't know how might differ flow resistance between rotary with G1/4 and separate barb/compression vs integrated one, but i'm guessing that integrated might have larger ID, no?

I hope you guys will forgive me if I play the world's saddest song on the smallest violin for you when you say you have to use all these swivel fittings in your builds because you can't figure out a way to properly radii a tube in a case the size of a closet.

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/971...0violinjpg.jpg

I'm from the old school days when you got e-castrated for using an elbow, so I use as little of the stuff as possible out of habit...and in much smaller cases than you guys. Your builds will still look good without all that crap if you would just be willing to put in a little serious effort during layout.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MUGEN02

:p:
[IMG]snip[/IMG]

Koolance Tim responds

"Fittings with multiple o-rings have more areas of potential failure. We have taken steps to improve their reliability. The largest change has been in switching to EPDM rubber (black) o-rings from the earlier silicone (red). It makes swiveling joints a little harder to rotate and QDCs a bit harder to connect/disconnect, but the material is more robust. We have also reduced fit tolerance on many fittings.

Our EPDM o-rings are available separately on our website, but not all types of fittings can be serviced in that way. Later angled nozzles and female QDC fittings are permanently sealed. Generally, the internal o-ring material will match the thread collar o-ring (which is visible)."
http://forums.koolance.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1467

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I stand corrected, thanks for the link MUGEN02.:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

I hope you guys will forgive me if I play the world's saddest song on the smallest violin for you when you say you have to use all these swivel fittings in your builds because you can't figure out a way to properly radii a tube in a case the size of a closet.


I'm from the old school days when you got e-castrated for using an elbow, so I use as little of the stuff as possible out of habit...and in much smaller cases than you guys. Your builds will still look good without all that crap if you would just be willing to put in a little serious effort during layout.

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:slapass:

In my case, it was required. This case wasn't designed for such large radiators so I had to work around it. To cool both the graphics card and processor (both have high heat output), I'd need at least 2 X 120mm radiators. But only a single 120mm could be inside the case as the second one would interfere with the full cover block. Not just any slim one either. I had to get a highly efficient one. But the size of an efficient one required the use elbows to divert the inlet and outlet around the large radiator. I'd rather got with normal compressions too. but when you're working in such a case, despite its size, it was never meant for such large rads.


This was the built in cofig previously:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../P1000027s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../P1000028s.jpg

I couldn't liquid cool my card with that built in rad. The case door simply wouldn't close if there was a FC block on.

It's not because of poor planning. I planned this loop for months, measuring and re measuring the dimensions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NKrader

just use duct tape.

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That's a quick fix. not one that'll hold for long.

Wow. Fantastic results after using it with that leakage previously:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ingrotary6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ingrotary5.jpg

I'm not even sure it's just the fitting on the left that's leaking anymore.

My card is still fine though. No liquid got between the block and card. Looks like no more games or even usage on that rig till the enzo fittings arrive. sheesh..... btw feser told me to contact the dealer.

Seems like Feser is trying to dodge the blame on this on =/... Hope those Enzo fittings work better for you.

Well, it looks like you might be learning that Fester isn't a really good company to support, a little late but your learning. ;)

I would have gone with a Swiftech MCR120 on the door which would have allowed you to use a standard straight compression fitting instead of the swivel that is leaking. ;) With the sheer amount of water cooling hardware available nowadays, there is almost always an answer to avoid swivels/angled fittings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Well, it looks like you might be learning that Fester isn't a really good company to support, a little late but your learning. ;)

I would have gone with a Swiftech MCR120 on the door which would have allowed you to use a standard straight compression fitting instead of the swivel that is leaking. ;) With the sheer amount of water cooling hardware available nowadays, there is almost always an answer to avoid swivels/angled fittings.

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TBH, I'd have gone for EK rads if given the choice to choose again. I'd even be able to move the back mounted radiator's fan into the case. arg! why didn't EK have those rads back then!!

the MCR120 would have worked for elimination of swivels on the blocks but I doubt it'd have been able to keep the QX6700 and Radeon 5870 anywhere near decent temps.

btw it's not just 'the swivel that's leaking' it is 'The swivels that are leaking'. the one on the processor is leaking too though it leaks slowly onto the northbridge cooler where the liquid evaporates so it doesn't cause hell to break loose.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fatfool

TBH, I'd have gone for EK rads if given the choice to choose again. I'd even be able to move the back mounted radiator's fan into the case. arg! why didn't EK have those rads back then!!

the MCR120 would have worked for elimination of swivels on the blocks but I doubt it'd have been able to keep the QX6700 and Radeon 5870 anywhere near decent temps.

btw it's not just 'the swivel that's leaking' it is 'The swivels that are leaking'. the one on the processor is leaking too though it leaks slowly onto the northbridge cooler where the liquid evaporates so it doesn't cause hell to break loose.

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I think the EK's might still be a bit too thick for that area. I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the MCRs, they were designed by BillA after all. Not sure what RPM your Noctua is running at but compare the Fester to the MCR (non stacked) for some eye opening results. ;)

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Originally Posted by rootz0r

Seems like Feser is trying to dodge the blame on this on =/... Hope those Enzo fittings work better for you.

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yep. hope they work out fine with herbie clips this time. Now i just gotta wait for it to bounce around the US before being shipped here.

Specialtech seems to be helpful though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

I think the EK's might still be a bit too thick for that area. I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the MCRs, they were designed by BillA after all. Not sure what RPM your Noctua is running at but compare the Fester to the MCR (non stacked) for some eye opening results. ;)

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Ok now that is eye opening. those noctuas run at 1300 RPM, nearly smack in the region where the lines intersect. maybe the MCR inside and EK outside would have been better. though the EK at that RPM may not be doing so well either.

Well, the 'RMA' procedure went smoothly. Mr Adrian Mundy saw the pictures and will ship the replacements without myself needing to send the leaky fittings there. He went the extra mile sending it outside of the EU, more like half way round the globe to Singapore (Tiny island in south east asia) where I live.

So guys, thats www.specialtech.co.uk for you.