Asus Maximus SE X38 WC with MIPS Mosfets, SB,NB
Scope of work: Modification of the Asus Maximus SE X38 and removal of the original Fusion Block.
My existing build is this
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9418/pict0063sf6.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Cpu: QX6700
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/1756/cpuidue6.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-02-12
Geil PC2-6400 DDR2-800 Dual Channel Kit GX22GB6400UDC
I run them at 900MHz, CAS 4-4-4-12
http://img358.imageshack.us/img358/2...v2ndrunpb1.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-03-08
Water Cooled solution is based on the following parts
- D-TEK FuZion CPU Accelerator Nozzle Kit
- D-TEK FuZion CPU
- Laing DDC-1T-PLUS
- Alphacool Laing DDC Pro/Ultra top
- Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV Blue
- ClearFLEX 60 Premium 3/8 ID
- ATX PSU Starter 20pin
- ThermoChill PA120.3
- 1/4 BSPP 3/8 D-TEK Hi-Flow studs
- Cape Coolplex Pro 25
The replacement part will be a
• 2 x EK-Backplate Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a
• FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set
• 1 x MCH034 Northbridge
• 1 x MCH003 Southbridge
• 2 x MCH150 Mosfet
Will look something like this
http://www.mips-computer.de/images/a...ximus_full.jpg
It has been said by MIPS that the fittings should be ¼” and the threads should have max. 5mm, if your fittings are longer than 5mm, then must use the distance rings which are included to every freezer.
Thus the of the HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread) with the following specifications Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18") should fit and the distance rings are not needed.
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/ProductIm.../DT-G14-38.jpg
HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread)
Chrome Plated Brass with O-ring retention groove
• Barb Size OD: 3/8" (11.2mm at largest point)
• Barb Size ID: 7.9mm (.31")
• Thread Size: G-1/4"
• Material: Chrome Plated Brass
• Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18")
• Total Length: 30mm (1.18")
• Recommended Tubing: 3/8" ID
1 x MCH034 Northbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
Northbridge Freezer:
Dimension bottom plate: 60 x 45 mm
Dimension: 60 x 45 x 10mm (L x B x H)
Weight: ~127g
Bottom plate: 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´
1 x MCH003 Southbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
Southbridge Freezer:
Footpoint bottomplate: 40 x 38,5mm
Dimensions: 49,5 x 40 x 14mm (L x B x H)
Weight: ~117g
Bottomplate: 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´
2 x MCH150 Mosfet Freezer in with 4 Distance rings
Mosfet Freezer:
Footpoint bottom plate: 75 x 16mm
Dimensions: 90 x 17 x 15 mm (L x B x H )
Weight: ~123g
Bottomplate: 5mm
distance plate: Brass 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´
The side panel of a Stacker 832 is able to fit 4 fans. Iam using the latest from Noctua NF-P12 120x120x25 mm 1300 RPM 92,3 m³/h 19,8 dB(A) 1,68 mm H2O
Note: I had to cut a small piece of the side panel as it was hitting on the PA120.3 Noctua fans
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/651/pict0073db2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-24
I also plan to use Revoltec Fan-Adapter 80-120mm 2x on the side panel.
The configuration will be: Top 2 to exhaust. Lower 2 Intake with Fan adapter. Given the fact that the motherboard is inverted the CPU is at the lower end thus the BFG 8800GTX OC is placed near the top back fan, exhaust and the hot air is taking straight out of the case.
Same fans have been used on the PA 120.3
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2024/pict0050hi2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-17
Front Intake i have one more Noctua and the one fan from Stacker832 with a fanduct
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/9858/pict0070vh5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
The Top 4-in-3 Device Module has the 2x HDD with 2x Coolink Silent Savior 80mm
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6349/pict0067sq5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Current Status:
Iam waiting for some parts to arrive before i can proceed further.
In the mean time if you have suggestions for removing the fusion block pls PM me.
Asus Maximus Removal of Fusion Block
Talonman was kind to provide a collection of posts regarding the removal of the Removal of Fusion Block
Many thanks to all the guys that contribute with much effort to this collection.
This is all the posts I can find on the matter:
My advice on the removal of the stock ROG cooling:
It took me a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer, warming the heat sink, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
Remove the 4 screws and all pins before starting. The entire cooling rig is all connected, and will want to move as 1 big unit.
You will need to make sure to give the SB some heat too. It has to let go at the same time that the NB does.
Never pull up! Just gently wiggle side to side. It will start to move when it's ready. Pulling up can cause your NB'es IHS to come off too. Most of us like it on, and think it works well with waterblocks.
Ware a glove as the sink get's hot with the hair dryer's heat blowing on it.
Mine was coaxed off successfully.
Try to avoid over heating the mobo if possible. Mabey use a towel as a heat shield for the chips?
The stock goop will be semi-molten when it slides free. It is the ideal time to use some acetone to clean the rest off.
From Malik:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...4&postcount=96 click for pictures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Eastcoasthandle
Quote:
Originally Posted by KALISPIMENTA;2669574[B
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Exahertz
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Exahertz
Quote:
Originally Posted by
shim-on
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5352/pic096ab8.jpg
[QUOTE=awhir;2596002]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c8...r/DSCN1829.jpg
From systemviper
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...90&postcount=1
This is the post from CLUNK
with the following note
UPDATE 18-10-07: CAUTION! - I have seen a couple of people damage their boards so far because the thermal cement that Asus use is just too strong. See this post for what can happen if you aren't careful enough. If possible, remove the fusion block and replace the thermal cement on the NB and SB BEFORE you fire the board up for the first time. The cement seems to harden and cure when it gets hot, so be aware of that.
So, I started by removing the Fusion block - it came off with a small amount of pressure. I used a small pair of fine nosed angled pliers. I covered the area close to the NB with masking tape, so the PCB wouldn't get scratched if there was any slippage, and gently used the angled nose of the pliers to lever up the block. Start at one corner and work your way along and you should hear the cement give way as you get to the next corner. The SB came off at the same time for me, but if not, just use the same method, and take your time.
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/723-post10.html
And here when things went wrong by RevolutionX
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/1330-post164.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by
deepcover
Removing the Fusion Block
I started taking off the 4 screws around the Northbridge and then i removed with a bent long noise plier the plastic pins from the south bridge and the mosfets
Removing the plastic pin off the mosfet
I did the following press it with the noisetip and with my fingernail press it again to come out from the other side.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/3711/pict0138bl8.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
Removing the South/North Bridge
I started with a COMPRESSED AIR CAN to cool it down. Besides the fact that it came all over did do a thing. Both chips are rocksolid and nothing i did made it better.
At the time i try to put dentalfloss between the heatsink and the chipset to see if there is a gap so i could try that first. Well that did not work.
Then i tried to move it sidewise. nope that did not helped either.
I tried to put a plastic card and see if i could get anywhere under the heatsink but as the space is limited came up empty handed.
Took the hairdryer and sterted with it. after several minutes i trought give it a go.. BIG Nothing. either chips didnt want to move a mm.
Back to the aircan. with the MB inverted pressed for several secs and in did it become very cold. Then again try to move it sideways.nothing.
After spending about 1 hour trying to cold.warm,cold etc i was ready to give up.
then .....
I cut a piece of a credit card.put it between the MB and the heat sink. again some with the aircan to get it cold and then put the tip of the screwdriver and with a twist i heard the CRACK!!! resulting to 5 years of my life scared sh...less.
But to my big surprise the SB come off!!!
So i did the same for the NB with the same crack and 5 more years gone,
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2907/pict0139dg0.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1959/pict0142vq4.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1401/pict0143lf6.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
Apparently the thermalp ast ASUS is using was rock solid. Pieces that i removed after where hard like stone and did not gave much to heat.
Remember that i been using the MB since Dec07 about 3months solid.
The SB ws removed clean with very few traces of the thermal paste.
The NB was few spots what i tried to clean with ArticClean 1,2 with no luck. After about 1hours used aceton and it removed in a sec.
This brings me to the point. IF it was posible to put some aceton between the chips and the heatsink it would make life much easier to remove them. Just need a way to get it there.
1st test 3.6 Ghz Qx6700 MIPS
This is the 1st test with the MIPS on the QX6700 3.6Ghz NB Vcore 1.70
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/3218/mips36vt8.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-02-21
It landed at 33c for both SB NB and 44c for CPU
I did stopped it to take the picture reson the timer says 15secs only
Ambient 24c
Collective experience and thoughts
Collective experience and thoughts regarding the installation / modification of the Asus Maximus with After Market Freezers
First of all I would like to thank the 'Aftermarket Block Club' and Talonman who started the thread and ignite me to start me own modification.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=162085
His thread has significant information and is a “must read “for all of the Asus Maximus SE owners.
Also many other users that provided valuable information and where the first ones to remove the fusion block, build WC blocks and posted several pictures with greate value to my self and others.
So with out further due,
Both my personal opinion and the opinions of others is that the Asus Maximus Formula SE and its variations Maximus Formula, MAximus Extreme, Maximus Formula SE, a motherboard based on the X38 chip with the highest degree of bios versatility, Over clocking capability and flexibility.
Several reviews grant it as best buy, best performance etc.
In regards to the Aftermarket Block Club there are few things you need to know before you decide to “enhance” your board. (There are several opinions for sure on this but here is mine)…
First off, what ever you do with your board revokes the warranty so you do this on your own risk.
The Removal of the Fusion Block and the selection of the so called freezers.
Removing the Fusion Block is the greatest challenge and subject to debate as to what method is suitable (not better than the other). Two methods so far: Hot air and Cooling the block. The hair dryer or solder iron on the NB & SB block to warm up and loosed up the thermal past underneath has proven to work for many users. It has been said that: preferably to do this before your start your motherboard for the first time as the burn in time will make the thermal paste to “mature” and make the disassembly difficult. This is logical as the thermal paste hardness over time and bonds to the surface of the chip making it difficult to remove. From my own experience (after the removal of the Fusion Block), the thermal paste was hard and I had to scrape it off with a plastic tool to remove it; it was so hard that it broke off (pieces of it) during the process.
The second is to freeze the surface of the NB, SB. This will make the thermal paste to cool “and contract to some level “ and loose some of its elasticity, grip onto the metal surface. (Probably some one can give a more correct explanation, but I think, in principle iam correct saying the above) . Compresses Air can/spray will have a cooling effect on the surface and it produces low temps. Friedge has been proven as well.
In my case, having running the fusion block for 3 months before taking the decision to remove it, 1st try the warm method. I could not get it to move and as the SB is surrounded by chips it was very hard for me to do it. NB same. Then I try the compressed air can. I had to invert, upside down, the motherboard and spray inside the NB block, and on the SB (was covered by towel to prevent the spray). I did that for about 10 secs and several times.
Starting with the Southbridge, I placed a plastic piece (5cmx1cm, cut out of a credit card) by the side of the heat sink and with the tip of the screwdriver twist it gently. A loud brake noise was heard and the thermal paste was removed from the chip surface as one piece. (lost 5 years of my life as I got scared by the terrible noise).
Any way my SB heart sink came off with all its thermal paste attached to the heat sink, with very few pieces on the SB chip it self. Now remember that the Fusion Block has to come out as one piece meaning both the SB, NB and the mosfets. One more quick spray on the NB and repeated the procedure, yes with the same loud noise and 5 more years gone. The majority of the thermal paste was on the heatsink with some residence on the NB chip it self. There plenty of pics for you to see on the previous page. Removing the mosfets is easy. With a bent long noise plier, press the plastic pins and push them. They come out nicely.
The NB had few spots of thermal paste, where I used coffee filter paper ArticClean 1,2 with no luck. After about 1hours used aceton and the remainings where removed in a seconds. One more sweep with ArticClean 1,2 and I was ready.
This brings me to the point. IF it was posible to put some aceton between the chips and the heatsink it would make life much easier to remove them. Just need a way to get it there.
PS: I used Arctic Cooling MX-2 for the NB, SB, CPU during the installation.
Time for ther freezers aka Chipset Water Blocks. The ones from EK are popular. If you want something different as the ones from MIPS copper or Nickel then http://www.mips-computer.de/ is the place to goto.
My self as you have seen used the copper ones part nr. MCH415 (set of 4 pcs 1x MCH034, 1x MCH003, 2x MCH150).
The Nickel Blocks should have the following part nr's:
ASUS MAXIMUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1034. (NB block)
ASUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1003. (SB Block)
ASUS Maximus Mosfet Freezer Nickel MCH1150. (MOSFET block, you need 2pcs) "SET" with part nr MCH1415
I used the backplates from EK thought as MIPS did not had any to offer at the time of the build.
My experience pre-order, order, delivery, installation.
First off the MIPS website is in German. I don’t know German but it was not difficult to understand and with an English german lexicon I was ready to go. I emailed MIPS my questions and where very prompt to reply and help me with my inquire order etc. The order process was not difficult and once completed I received email with paypal details where I transfer the money. Received confirmation and within 3 days I received the goods from Germany to Sweden. Excellent! The water blocks arrived in a well protected box, each one within its own envelop. Nothing extra arrived. The idea is simple. Use the original backplate of the NB, use the thermal pads of the mosfets. Simple and it works 100%.
The quality of the blocks is impressive, German quality at its best, they are shiny, heavy and robust. I would prefer a backplate for the Southbridge, and I tried to make one my self with disappointing results. So I didn’t use it.
The way the SB water block fits the MB is good and rock solid with only 2 screws. In comparison to other blocks it seats lower to the VGA card and there is enough clearance for the tubing to pass over the VGA card. Picture is attached to page 2 of my work log.
If I put a rate: 9,5 out of 10 for the reason no back plates where available (at this time of the order) from the source.
:up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up::up:
HR-03 Plus TEMPS BFG Tech Nvidia GeForce 8800GTX OC
Temperatures
Side Panel on Stacker 832 Removed- Idle
GPU 38 °C (100 °F)
GPU Diode 47 °C (117 °F)
GPU Memory 39 °C (102 °F)
GPU Ambient 39 °C (102 °F)
Side Panel on Stacker 832 Installed with 4 fans - Idle
GPU 36 °C (97 °F)
GPU Diode 45 °C (113 °F)
GPU Memory 36 °C (97 °F)
GPU Ambient 36 °C (97 °F)
Side Panel on Stacker 832 Installed with 4 fans - During testing
GPU 46 °C (115 °F)
GPU Diode 54 °C (129 °F)
GPU Memory 46 °C (115 °F)
GPU Ambient 45 °C (113 °F)
GPU 46 °C (115 °F)
GPU Diode 54 °C (129 °F)
GPU Memory 47 °C (117 °F)
GPU Ambient 46 °C (115 °F)
GPU 46 °C (115 °F)
GPU Diode 55 °C (131 °F)
GPU Memory 47 °C (117 °F)
GPU Ambient 46 °C (115 °F)
GeForce 8800 Series Clock Rates Table...
GeForce 8800 Series Clock Rates Table...
- Core : 576MHz - Shader : 1350MHz - Memory : 1800MHz
- Core : 594MHz - Shader : 1404MHz - Memory : 1836MHz
- Core : 612MHz - Shader : 1458MHz - Memory : 1872MHz
- Core : 621MHz - Shader : 1512MHz - Memory : 1890MHz
- Core : 648MHz - Shader : 1566MHz - Memory : 1944MHz
- Core : 675MHz - Shader : 1620MHz - Memory : 1998MHz
*Original settings
8800 GTX Water Cooled OC
- Core : 650MHz - Shader : 1500MHz - Memory : 2000MHz
8800 GTX OC
- Core : 600MHz - Shader : 1400MHz - Memory : 1800MHz
8800 GTX OC2
- Core : 626MHz - Shader : 1450MHz - Memory : 2000MHz
I believe the next step will be to OC the already overclocked 8800 GTX OC card from the original settings of 8800 GTX OC
- Core : 600MHz - Shader : 1400MHz - Memory : 1800MHz
to something better.
Google shows the way to go http://www.mvktech.net
and will see where i will end up.
In the mean time i am having hard time to find OC settings for this card so if you have any link pls let me know.
Iam interesting in getting an idea about the Core : - Shader : - Memory : as well as Voltage settings
