borec, thx!
:woot:
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3165/img5217.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3584/img5218q.jpg
Printable View
turns out really nice...
how much it cost you ...
daym expensive for powder coating in my place, guess have to paint my self..
ooooh GK that's looking reaaaaally good :clap:
sekitar 500k-600k y kayany, kmrn sempet tanya2Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis_is_evil
I spent $33 for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis_is_evil
I called to each company I found here and everyone has minimum price $66-80, except for this one :rolleyes:
thanks :) Waiting for some nice mdpc rivets to assemble itQuote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
Thats damm! nice powder coating, really is sweet there GK and for $33.00 I would be fired up.
Looking forward to your next update there mate.
I really like how your powder coating came out! Good Stuff.
great powder coating, cheap too!! seeing you have your rig in pieces.... how hard would it be to mod the p80 for inverted ATX?
amazing, really love the powder coating, and amazing price too!!
Nice pics/paint. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
wow, nice work man!!!!!
The black paint looks awesome!
kgtiger, shazza, m1013828, djmattm, Xion_X2, LeandroJVarini, hotwaxisbad
thanks mates, glad you like it :up:
hm, didn't really thought about it, I guess it would be not so easyQuote:
Originally Posted by m1013828
Bought some paint today and decided to give it a test run
Fresh newspaper is the best background :D Test piece is that so painly removable drive bay plate, no sanding and priming to it.
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9968/img5252s.jpg
Waited for 30 mins (it is said on the can "touch-dry after 10 mins")
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/1381/img5269f.jpg
Nice! I wish it was not so dusty on my balcony :shakes:
Color differs a bit from powdercoating, but still rather good. Powdercoated one is shinier (both colors are matt black) and grainier.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5016/img5276a.jpg
to cut down on dust, first sweep it best you can,Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
then take a spray bottle and lightly mist the area with water to cut down on the dust rising back up.
of course if it is windy, then the solution is useless.
my 2¢
I was like "May be I should use bathroom for paintjob? No, my GF will kill me for that", now I know how to make a bathroom out of my balcony :D thank you! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by MadHacker
Your powdercoating of parts turned out great and WOW! thats an amazing price. I must sat that your spraypainting looks every bit as good though.
I tried that, put a big cardboard box in the bathroom, and put the parts inside, and sprayed away...Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
well over spray got every vertical surface of the bathroom.
lucky for me the paint particles were dry when they landed, but what a mess.
took a couple hours to clean that one up...
just joking :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MadHacker
Heard that photographers change lenses for their DSLRs in bathrooms to avoid dust particles inside.
well the paint job did turn out pretty good.
can live without the mess.
Looks good there GK, I do like the look you got from the can.
If only it lasted like powder coating.
The idea about weting down the ground before you paint is correct and also very useful.
We used to hose down the concrete floor of the paint booth when the extractor fan was not working to help keep the dust down.
Looking sweet :)
Love the new look! Your new project name perfectly captures it.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Great job, GK :up:
Really like the copper look of the parts you have used.
Even thou HK may not be the coolest WC block, temps wise.
I still feel its the best looking.
Cap, tiger, thank you both!
Nice countersunk rivets arrived to mdpc so I can't miss it :)
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5192/img5353t.jpg
Some tape onto the tool
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/8999/img5360m.jpg
and we are ready to start
*snap*
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4770/img5362c.jpg
*snap* *snap*
This rivets are reallly of top notch quality, especially dome headed ones :up:
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/4816/img5368j.jpg
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/839/img5365.jpg
Mostly all rivets are applied excepts for ones on the MB tray holder and on those white plastic thingies preventing doors and tray from vibrations (hope you understand me, don't know how to call 'em :D)
========>
Moving further.
I have OCZ XTC ram cooler, guess you've seen that it has been powdercoated, it has two nice blue LED fans inside
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8857/img5292.jpg
but with the cover on they look just like 8 lighting dots, that's not a nice appearance :( had to cut lines to the LEDs.
Also this thing can't go without sleeving. Yeah, now it is right appearance
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1866/img5399f.jpg
======== Bonus track ========
my kitteh (small one :D)
She loves to play with my hardware and steal zipties
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3645/img5346a.jpg
Hay GK, the first 3 riverts are countersunk rivets, the other 3 look dome to me.
I like your cat, has been years, like 25 years since I had one thou. She/he looks ready to pounce:cat:
Lol, that cat is awesome. :P
You are absolutely right :) I got dome headed ones earlierQuote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
I like her too but she's a bit crazy :D Actually since I moved to another place this kitteh lives with my sister, I just had her for a week because sister was out of town.Quote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
But anyway my lovely big cat stays with me, I hope you'll see him later ;)
You should rename your project to Duracell :ROTF:
It reminds me of Duracell batteries :p:
haha well spotted :rofl: :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by ohms
http://i00.twenga.com/werkbenodigdhe...p_448237vb.png
Another update in my Duracell log :D
I started to think about HDD mounts, why I didn't did it earlier? :shrug:
To my mind the best place for drives is backside of 5.25" bays. Standart holes on the bottom of 3.5" HDD do not fit Lian-Li holes. More over if drive mounted closely to the panel there is the lack of space for cables going to the drive.
Well, I have Xeon mounting something don't know how it is applied and where - it came with case. It nearly fits 3.5" HDD by width and has UNC 6x32 threaded stands on the back side.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/6097/img5453f.jpg
And I am going to mount Storage HDD like this, upper or lower
I am sorry for messy background :rolleyes:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/329/img5464i.jpg
Lets start, first of all holes for HDD.
Applied some tape and marked points (connectors will be in the left hand side)
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/6452/img5513r.jpg
As I do not have any precious drilling hardware I prefer start with small 1.5mm drill
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1786/img5515i.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1531/img5520.jpg
and continue with 4mm drill
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2936/img5524t.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/10/img5528b.jpg
Otherwise drill just slides out of marked point and holes just do not fit each other while screwing.
4 holes done, some handfile tweaking to make sure drive is lined up perfectly
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5962/img5532i.jpg
and test fit
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5931/img5539.jpg
Even in this state I like it :D This thing is going to be cutted and painted. Unfortunately it is too late for dremelling as I don't want to disturb my neighbours (and their children as well), I'll continue tomorrow, I hope.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5864/img5545y.jpg
That's it for now, I hope I'll finish mount soon and post some pics here.
Noiseblocker fans for the rad are nearly to be shipped, but this will take 2-3 weeks to arrive.
Also my package from PPCs is already at customs, I can't stop clicking refresh button at the page with tracking info, those guys in customs are sooo slow :shakes:
Oh, forgot to mention: on par with 1.5TB storage drive there will be Kingston SSD M series. This is carbon copy of Intel X25-M, but Intel ones are not available in Moscow.
http://www.legitreviews.com/images/r...ngston_ssd.jpg
======== Bonus track #2 ========
My lovely kitteh, he don't like photo sessions :D
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7429/img5475k.jpg
Thanks for reading :)
Are you kidding? its one of the best.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
cute kitty :)
Hay GK when drilling holes, try this, after you have marked where you need to drill your hole.
If you don't have a center punch you can use either a sharp nail or a pop rivet with the pointy bit down of cause.
Once lined up to your mark, just give the top a "lite" hit with hammer on a hard surface. Not to hard or you will dent the surounding aluminium.
This will leave a small divet and you will find now that your drill bit doesn't wonder off.
Exa, No I was not kidding, like you said "its one of the best" and I pointed out "Even thou HK may not be the coolest WC block, temps wise."
The HK is now the second best block for cooling CPUs, first place now goes to Swiftech Apogee XT.
If you would like to see what Vapor had to say about it then here is a link http://vapor.skinneelabs.com/i7/Round2/XT/R2i7XT.html
Or if you would like to compare the HK to the XT then here is another link http://vapor.skinneelabs.com/i7/Roun...i7Overall.html
I still love the looks of the HK but the performance factor of the XT does have a slight pulling me, just a tad.
Yeah, I was about to say use a center-punch as it'll keep the bit from sliding.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Still not a bad idea to drill with a smaller bit first, but a punch would make the process easier.
Looking good, aka_GK. You have a good worklog going here. :)
Ive red the tests. You made it sound like the block was mediocre, when in fact i would put it side by side with the XT. The sub 1C difference is worth it in my eyes when you consider that the HK is much less restrictive than the XT. You can do the silicone mod on the HK and it would be in front of the XT while still beeing less restrictive. They both have theire pro's and con's, but dont make it loook like the HK is wastly inferior to the XT when in fact its not.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
thanks ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by illidan
kgtiger, Xion X2
yeah, I know that trick but for some reason it doesn't work for me :) It is easier for me to drill twice and I do not drill that much holes to worry about it :D
kgtiger, eXa
I guess even if HK 3.0 is leading block for i7 it is not that evident it is leading for Core 2 Duo which I use. I haven't seen any direct comparison tests on socket 775 between HK 3.0 and other blocks such as D-tek and cuplex xt di.
But anyway I have Heatkiller that is custom painted, matches my colors, not very restrictive (as I am using silent mcp350) and performs at highest (or nearly so) level. That's all I need :)
I received another package and shaped that plate for HDD so be ready for next update soon ;)
Cutted unnecessary metal
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8858/img5549.jpg
I am not showing right after dremelling because my skills are nearly between zero and 0.1 :D This is after handfiling.
Rounded corners as it was before cutting
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/257/img5558k.jpg
and shortened stand-offs a bit so that case side panel does not scratch HDD. Used the same mirror and sandpaper techinique as used during CPU lapping to achive perfectly flat surface.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3136/img5560.jpg
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3058/img5590.jpg
Final view before painting:
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2066/img5587.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8290/img5592u.jpg
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/1902/img5594.jpg
w00t! another package with toys arrived
Lian-Li casters
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/816/img5564d.jpg
lamptron 24 LED Flexlight strip
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5448/img5569v.jpg
BitsPowerfull brigade with their commander :D
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9036/img5583p.jpg
and Koolance TMS-200 board, bought additional temp sensor for it
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9259/img5574l.jpg
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/2971/img5575j.jpg
thanks for reading, stay tuned ;)
Absolutely fantastic job! I like the Cpu cooler. :)
Love this update!
scor12, GregSG
thanks mates, appreciate your feedback ;)
As my term in university goes to the end, I have tons of tasks to do and almost no free time. I hope I'll manage to do them by the end of December and continue my build.
Fans for the rad are on their way and I plan to make another order at PPCs in early January to get case sidepanel, some missing barbs and probably new tubing.
Now I have a task for you, try to guess what is this thing for :)
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/384/img5599x.jpg
Hey @aka_GK,
I was not around for a while, I just finished to check your worklog updates now. :( I liked your powdercoated HK blocks, they simply rocks. :up: If you had hard time with rivets, you can try to use the drill bit with your dremel next time. You can handle with them with less effort.
You got talent and nice components down here mate. Keep up the good work. :)
PS: I also ordered the same rivets from ChilledPC yesterday.
Cheers,
Arthur
thanks, glad to see you here Arthur, was wondering where did you disappeared :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur
looking forward to updates in your log ;)
Hey bro,Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Yeah, I know its hard to understand who subscribed my worklog recently but my family had several funreals in near past so I could not focus on my worklog enough. :( As I said in my worklog post, I'll be able to continue my worklog until Feburary 2010, it'll be done until that time of course. I also speed up it a bit. ;)
I saw your worklog down here and I must admit it what you covered serious route here mate. I believe I'll catch you on that route soon enough LOL! :up:
You take care yourself.
Thanks,
Arthur
oh, sorry mate, sometimes life hits hard but I am sure you can go through it. Keep your head up!Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur
I didn't quite understand what's the point February 2010?
I appreciate your good wishes and feelings my bro. Life is cruel and we should go though it like you said. :( I'll be joined the army for my military duty after Februrary 2010 thats the point LOL. :) I want to finish it before that happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Thanks again,
Arthur
ah, that's sucks. I know lots of good guys from my local communities who has to go to army too and that's not fair imho, but that is law.
be strong friend and go forward ;)
I am sorry for the OT here :)
No problem at all. :up: Yeah my bro, thats really sucks but its the law because of that I have to do it. :) By the way, I subscribed your worklog long time ago and I'll be still follow your foot steps out there LOL. :up: Lets finish them all. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
You take care yourself.
Thanks,
Arthur
Hay Gk I like your handy work with the HHD bracket, looks really good.
The Lian-Li casters look a bit like there from a skateboard :rofl:
I have been reading up on the Koolance TMS-200 board and Koolance's TMS-EB200 Expansion Board and trying to compare them to the T-Balance mcubed bigNG/miniNGs Expansion Board.
At this stage I have still not made up my mind yet as to which one I will get.
Hi Arthur, I am sorry to hear for your loss, it's a trying time.
I have been through the loss of a family member just some two months ago, keep your head up mate.
Thanks ExA for taking the time to read the testing that Vapor has done, he really has done some excellent work there.Quote:
Originally Posted by eXa
However, I am not sure how you can say I made the HK block " sound like the block was mediocre" I in no means stated or gave the impression in any way that,
"the HK is wastly inferior to the XT".
I do admire your passion for the Heatkiller block. I do admit I was not happy to read that HK had lost the crown,
but are really looking forward to Watercool's new version of the HK when that finally happens.
At this point there is no retailer selling the HK in Australia(that I can find, PCCG did, but don't now) and at this point I will buy the HK block from overseas.
I did state that "thou HK may not be the coolest WC block, temps wise."
The HK is now the second best block for cooling CPUs, first place now goes to Swiftech Apogee XT"
This statement is correct, the HK block is second compared to the XT, as found in Vapor's review.
As to your statement "The sub 1C difference is worth it in my eyes when you consider that the HK is much less restrictive than the XT
Well this is also ture, to a point. In Vapor's graphs the HK is 0.19 GPM more restrictive than the XT. To me that is only a tad less restrictive.
As for the "silicone mod" I to agree it does help the Hk drop about 1C.
It also helps the XT in the same manner, (also found out by Vapor in the 10-20-2009 Swiftech Apogee XT test report) so the silicone mod works just as well for both blocks.
So as I see it the XT is the best block by 1C, but to me it really just comes down to looks with the HK.
As I stated " I still feel its the best looking"
Please feel free to write a reply to what I have written, however as this is GK's work log, with respect to him, I will not be post further comments on this matter.
Looking forward to your next update GK, as for testing the HK on the 775, I also have not seen any, also have not been looking either.
Well, from a quick glance and a person who is also interested in picking up a controller - I feel that the koolance is the worst of the 3. Why? Simply because it offers 3 separate fan channels while the BigNG and Auqaero offer 4. The koolance does offer a "pump" channel, but I don't know if this can double as a 4th fan channel.
thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
yep, they do, it is a good idea for somebody's rig to use skate wheels :D
I bought TMS-200 because it has enough power per channel to handle a pump without any tricks like powerboosters on aquaero. Only 3 channels for fans is no probs for me as I don't need more, in addition I have built-in case 2 channel controller which handles at least 3 fans per channel.
Moreover koolance board have full range of accessories needed (aquaero doesn't afaik)
Each chanel in TMS-200 can handle 24W, so we can say that there are 4 chanels like in aquaero and bigNG. Anyway at least one channel will be taken by pump, we are in liquid cooling section, aren't we? :)
oh yeah, I have plans to test limits of my CPU soon and the weather favors :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/994/97637956.png
Yes, perhaps. For my intentions though I'd like 4 separate channels so I can use 2 channels for each rad and give me a more flexible control over the fans. It may be the watercooling section, but I leave my pump on full and like to control the fans for maximum silence.
I bet you also plan to push/test that CPU to its limits, but whats that got to do with the weather, at -20C do you plan on going outside with it ?:rofl:
As for the Koolance TMS 200 there is a 2amp limit per channel GK.
I just went to dsumanik review
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=225585, but I see you have also been there. :rofl:
The more I look at it (TMS-200) the more I like it, I think I will also get the TMS-EB200 Expansion Board, as I need to buy it in from overseas,
I might as well go all out and get the optional Koolance INS-FM16 flow meter.
However I think I will use the AquaComputer inline temp sensor to monitor water temps.:up:
With balcony door opened I can easily get 10C room temperature :DQuote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
yep, isn't it the same? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
P = U*I = 12V * 2A = 24W
As for the flow meter I guess FM-17 is better looking and less restrictive than FM-16, but more expensive too. I also think of getting one :)
Aquacomp temp sensor is good looking one, nice choice :up:
ok, it's each others'. I pursuing max silence too :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Antioch
AAARRR Damm!:dammit::censored::brick: Man you are Totally right I did mean the INS-FM17, the, nice straight one, that looks just O so sexy, not the, chuck a Uee around the block INS-FM16 lets just restrict heaps of water flow sucky one.
My humble apology GK, You are now the man! :up:
I think ive never seen a russian worklog bevore :D But this one is very nice i have to admit!
I really like the individual style of the cpu cooler and the color scheme:)
Keep up the nice work:up:
I've managed to pass major part of tests and tasks in university and will have time to work here, I hope I'll please you with some test&overclocking setup pics/results soon :D
I bought two cans of Motip primer today and as I have no previous experience with it I would like to ask you some questions if you don't mind :)
1. You can see plastic primer on the right hand side, can I (and should I?) apply several layers of simple primer after plastic one? I am gonna paint pump case and it is a bit dented, I'd like to flatten it.
2. Should primer completely dry before applying next layer? for simple primer this time is 2 hours as it stated on the can.
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7351/img1131f.jpg
thanks, I hope result will not dissappoint you ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by .raw
Hey @aka_GK,
How's the Moscow? :) Its gotta be freezing right now. :rolleyes: We are waiting updates for new year mate, show us what you got down there bro. :up:
Cheers,
Arthur
Edit: Damn, you are pretty fast actually. ;)
:cool::rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur
It is not that cold right now, especially comparing to the temps few days ago :D
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/492/34240146.png
I sincerely hope to receive NB fans before new year and assemble the rad, but aquatuning delivery is sooo slooow :shakes: If not, I'll be able to get them only after January 10th because of very long russian New Year celebrations :D
nice project !!!
Keep up the good work ..
Hey bro,Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
When there is cold like freezing to death, I have to do only a few options in my mind. :rolleyes: Here's one of them LOL! ;) They gotta be all fine on that temps what you got out there. :up:
http://www.eddievargas.com/images/po...anzka2-big.jpg
and of course
http://www.oemcentral.com/Absolute_Ad_Page_3.JPG
I giving you a bottle of Absolute which you wanted in new year bro. Cheers. :up:
I do not know why Aquatuning has such a slow shipment time to you but it should be related with your location I suppose. :( I also hope to get my currently order before new year. :confused: And then I can start to modify my top panel and rad replacement at that time.
Your worklog will be fine, you just enjoy your new year mate. :yepp:
Thanks,
Arthur
Congrats on doing well in school, aka_GK. I'm looking forward to your comments on the Koolance controller.
Hay GK, how dented, is dented?
As this primer, like all primers, is really only there to prep the surface to be painted, so when you do paint it (top coat/colour you want) it can stick better and also give better area coverage.
If you spray a light coat, let completly dry and sand back, it want really fill much of the dent.
The best stuff for dents and to fill scratches is automotive body filler, normaly just called bog. It a two part mix, really easy to use.
All car panal beaters use it (by the ton) to fill dents and imperfections. Once mixed up, fill the dents, let dry and sand back.
Have a very Marry Christmas and an excellent new year. Enjoy the long russian New Year celebrations my friend.
Be safe and throw a snow ball for me. :up:
As Christmas day is looking like it's going to be 38 Deg c here in Perth. :yepp:
thanks, glad you like it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Raiden
haha thanks :rofl: I've never tryed Absolut or Danzka, my favourite drinks for celebration areQuote:
Originally Posted by Arthur
http://pics.livejournal.com/okmagazine_ru/pic/000607a4 and http://www.regstaer.ru/images/catalog/full/006308.gif
:D
Thanks Sharon, I'll try to provide with some info on this soon ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
take a look at this, I've tryed to paint it as it is and this is what I ended up with (what a rhyme :D)Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/9417/img5423.jpg
This dents are barely noticeable when plastic is not painted :shrug:
I've heard about two-component filler but unfortunately I have no place near home to buy it.
Now I am going to sand all paint down and to think what I can do with this, It would be perfect if I manage to find filler.
And lucky you are with your weather :surf:
Snowy days are coming to Moscow - time to get my snowboard out of its package :cool:
:party:Merry Christmas everybody and have happy New Year!:party:
I wish to thank you for your feedback here, it is much appreciated :up:
In Russia Christmas is celebrated at January 7th, that is why we work until December 30-31th and then have 10 vacation days :)
Small update:
Aquatuning rep in Moscow just said that my Noiseblocker fans and some other stuff arrived! I'll be able to get them before New year :cool:
stay tuned
Fantastic work and amazing photos! :up:
I really like your attention to detail and the enthusiastic energy you convey. Your work is a pleasure to follow and I enjoy the welcome addition of your cats. :)
Looking forward to following your future updates!
Hey Charles!Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_h
thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it :)
and you should know what I want from you :D still waiting for news about res holders :shrug:
update time! :)
My inner voice recently sad to me, why the hell you're sitting on your butt and playing L4D2? Guys and girls at XS are clicking refresh button and waiting for something interesting! So I went to my frosted balcony and
quickly sanded HDD mount,
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1549/img1169i.jpg
primed
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/3702/img1171s.jpg
sanded again and applied two layers of black matt color... but ran out of paint, need to buy more
assembled test setup to overclock the cpu and test everything out
first channel on Kaze Master shows pump rpms and ambient temp
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/9366/img1190.jpg
Coretemp showed 36/38 °C Idle, I guess I need to remount CPU block :shakes:
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/261/img1193aa.jpg
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6388/img1196v.jpg
and meanwhile I am selling all hardware I will not ever be using and one guy wanted to buy stock Lian-Li case 140mm fans. I was removing them from the front panel and one thing really surprised me:
Lian-Li placed separate PCB to connect 3 fans together and did it so that you can easily change stock fans, connect them together and monitor their rpms (even if built-in Lian-Li controller doesn't use rpm wire).
Thermaltake usually just solders fans together and you will not ever use them again :shakes:
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/9013/img1185lg.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5125/img1188y.jpg
I hope since now updates will be coming faster :)
It looks really cool :D
Nice update GK.
If you don't have and panal beaters near by you to get some from.
Just try spack filler.
Spack filler is just very fine plaster that is mixed with water to make a past, you normaly use it to fill hole's and cracks in the walls of house's.
You may find it a little porous, meaning it will suck in the paint like a sponge at first.
Just let the first coat of primer fully dry before applying the second coat of primer and you should be sweet.
One other thing you could use is wood putty that you would use in woodworking to fill nail holes and cracks.
It's normaly an oil base filler that drys hard and can easily be sanded back and then painter over.
Just see what you can find, you will find something champ.:up:
;)Quote:
Originally Posted by -TYPHOON-
Sure I will, thanks for the tips :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
I am finalizing my order at PPCs (last one for this build, I hope :D), so I need to know whether I have everything for proper cable management or not, as it is very hard (almost impossible) to get stuff like connectors, pins, extenders here in Moscow.
Internal USB cable that was with Koolance board is ok, but 10" SATA cable I bought previously is not long enough, 12" should be fine.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2857/img1211e.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4972/img1215w.jpg
This is how TMS-200 going to be mounted.
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6537/img1218n.jpg
painted TMS-200 bracket:
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/6026/img1206i.jpg
Also I have a bunch of parts primed, but not painted yet. Store that sells my paint opens on 11th January, I have to wait for a few days :(
Koolance temp sensor (sorry for the fur :rolleyes:)
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/3809/img1224us.jpg
Misc. screws for rad bracket and MB tray
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2894/img1226r.jpg
Can you not just cut the sata cable, and add 2"-3" and solder it back up?
Will need to add some heatshrink to it, but would be cheaper.
Also, have a look at the top of the Koolance temp sensor, can you see the black dots around the inside, near the wires.
That is from silicon, the mortal enemy of paint.
It repels the paint when it is wet, stopping you from getting an even coverage.
Just get some solvent like mineral turpentine and wipe down the affected area.
As it is only primer, it will also remove the primer as well.
If you like the dots, don't bother, if they bug you, give it a go. :up:
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/3809/img1224us.jpg
hmm, I really have no idea how SATA cable looks inside but according to lots of golden pins at the end of connector I always imagine lots of wires inside that are impossible to solder back once cutted, am I wrong? :D that's why I've never thought of cutting this cables, but it is a nice suggestion, I guess exact length I need is somewhere between 10" and 12", may be I'll go this way :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
yeah, I've noticed that sponge like thing, but I think when covered with black paint those dots will be barely visible, it doesn't bother me ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
keep going. i will see results :)
Hay GK just PM either Nils or Fhantastic and ask them about the Sata cable.
I have never cut one up, but I would take a guess that is is only a group of single wire's, could be totaly wrong, wouldn't be the first time. :rolleyes:
As for the Dot's.
When you go to re-paint the temp sensor with the top coat (colour you want to see).
The paint will act the same way and be pushed to the sides, leaving a hole without paint over it.
You can paint it like 5 times and the same thing will keep happening. :yepp:
The only thing that will change is, around the outside of the "Dot" will form a thick ridge of paint, that should of been over the hole, it will end up looking butt ugly. :down:
Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
perhaps this link will help give you some ideas.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Baby SATA
it about cutting a SATA cable smaller, perhaps using a longer SATA cable and cutting it down will suit your needs.
I myself never tried it.
Thanks Madhacker for the link, it's interesting that, in the sata cable that was used it had solid wires.
As GK is looking at extending the cable, might just be easier to buy the right size sata cable.
is getting more and more beautiful!
new rad fans arrived afterall
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/7523/img12701.jpg
I ordered the same fans :up:
very nice work dude.
Looking great as always. I like the hard disk mounting you've done.
I could never work out what the hell that piece of metal was for that comes with the P80 - you've found a good use for it :P
thx for the link, it helped me to decide to not cut the SATA :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MadHacker
thanks ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by LeandroJVarini
thanks, glad to see ya here :DQuote:
Originally Posted by WaterFlex
Thank you mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
Yeah it turned out well, on par with TMS-200 bracket it is waiting for the final layer of black paint.
Sure, I am not going to cover them with paint. They will be black too, that's all I need :DQuote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Finally it turned out great :up:
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/7369/img1308hn.jpg
I did some overclocking yesterday and hit 4.5GHz - completely LinX stable without crazy voltages and temps :woot: that was my goal when I started this build, but now I see that I can go even higher :cool:
This was made at 27C ambient with rad fans running 1000rpm and it looks like voltages can be lowered a bit :up:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/2408/4500cut.png
Nice work GK, looks good mate. :up:
Looking great, GK. I love the look of those Black NBs
Looks great so far!
I too ordered the NB fans. They seem
damn quiet and they had blue...
BTW the rad brackets are 1.94mm thick, just FYI
Looking forward to seeing it all together.
Your temp-sensor looks sweet my bro, you got such a nice talent on sleeving. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Your vcore also looks good on E8500. I oc'ing my E8600 4.5Ghz between 1.2xx~1.325 vcore ranges, nothing fancy.
PS: Last night, I saw 16C CPU temp. in the air. Snow worked out well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
thank you guys ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by CptDreadFlint
Thanks Dave, glad you like it. And thanks for the info about brackets, I'll keep this in mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by armeniandave
Yeah I am looking forward to assembling all this parts together too, but daym something is missing everytime and I have to wait again. Hopefully pieces of this puzzle will come together soon ;)
Tbh I am a bit dissapointed about those Noiseblockers I recently received :shakes:
Accessories and look is second to none, but they cost 16 euro and sound not better than $9 Yate Loons :shocked:
Considering their awesome 120mm Multiframe I've expected something better. Please don't get me wrong, they are quiet but that is not a good deal to my mind. For anybody searching for good 140mm I would definitely recommend medium speed Yates.
Thanks Arthur, your second run on sleeving looks way much better than the first one :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur
Voltage setting are pretty rough here, had no time for accurate tweaking, hopefully I'll be able to lower them a bit.
==================================================
Small update.
I've finally managed to finish HDD bracket, that was real pain in the ass to paint it. Having -20C outside and nearly 0C in dusty balcony it is not the thing can be called perfect painting conditions.
But anyway it is finished and looks fine.
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/9059/img13371.jpg
Still kooks good to me GK.
When it is so cold it is hard to get a high gloss, even with the best paints.
One thing you could do to help get better resultes, is to put your small items in the oven on low, basicly just turned on.
Don't try and speed up the proccess by over heating the item to be painted, this will just burn the paint and will look crap.
By doing this it will take the chill out of the steel/aluminium. Have everything ready to go outside where your painting.
That way you can paint as soon as you hang up the item your painting (coat hangers work really well for stands to hang/rest thing on plus there portable).
By the time you get outside the item will be about 25-30c degrees.
Once you have painted it, bring the item back inside to dry fully.
Keep up the good work mate.
well, yeah I am trying to do the same: take everything, go outside, quickly spray and go back
I use matt paint and it is a bit easier to get smooth surface than while using gloss
Regardless of temperature, this is why I avoid paint (because I am lazy).Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Looking good 'GK! And good luck with the paint!
Very nice OC you got!
I believe you can be able to lower them. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Yes, I had to re-sleeve my cables with my new PSU, I suppose they are more proper for my project now. I would like to see your feedback on my worklog too. :)
Live long and prosper, :D
Arthur
Wezly, Anemic, Arthur
thanks guys, appreciate your feedback :)
Work moves a bit slower than I would like to have it, but yet it moves.
Trying to improve CPU cooling this days, first step is lapping.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/871/img1354e.jpg
Some intermediate pics
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/6596/img1357.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9567/img1362k.jpg
And final. I am way too far from mirror finish but I don't have thinner grit sandpaper :shrug:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5393/img1368n.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/7237/img1369io.jpg
But at the end of this 2 days run I was a bit dissappointed :( footprint is not perfect and temperature gain is negligible.
Maybe problem is in Heatkiller block? For some reason I've expected it perfectly flat :shrug:
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9849/img1393aq.jpg
Another box from PPCs arrived:
Primochill LRT tubing, it was very dusty that is why picture is smaller than others :p:
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4017/img1397ol.jpg
some rotaries, sealing plug, barbs and blue o-rings
http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/5069/img1399r.jpg
o-ringies party :party: :D
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/7715/img1407l.jpg
and Koolance FM-17 flowmeter
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/6864/img1414ic.jpg
================================================== =============================
Also I am thinking of MB cooling change, I want to know your opinion on this (both design and prefomance):
those copper things for mosfets
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal.../mst-81_01.jpg
tbh I've found them in Kibbler's previous buildlog :p:
high and low profile heatsinks for Southbridge and some chip near SB
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2549/bmrc102.jpg http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ts/bcc9_02.jpg
and this cool block for the Northbridge
http://www.mips-computer.de/images/mch2034.jpg
Thanks for reading :)
Hay GK sorry to hear your not happy with your temps.
New parts look sweet.
What TIM are you using?
After reading Vapors [Review] Indigo Xtreme vs. AS5, MX-2, IC Diamond, Shin-Etsu X23-7783D I bought some.
I haven't had a chance to use it yet as R3E is not out and about.
After reading the review and also reading other peoples comments I do feel it's well worth the $20.00 investment.
Let us know how things go, hay. :up:
I have both MX-2 and MX-3, but mx-3 is so damn hard to apply - it is very thick, you can only put a piece of it on the CPU (or somewhere else) and then just press it with your finger, almost impossible to smear it. Moreover for some reason it brought me +1 degree under load, I am really confused what I am doing wrong :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Nice to see your updates, aka_GK - please keep them coming. The fittings look spectacular with the blue o-rings.
(and, umm, after reading this I snipped a SATA cable in half ... yuck, no way I can figure out how to do anything different with it. Too many tiny strands of wire in there)
HeatKiller has a bowed plated. Several people with a HK have experienced worse temps after lapping there CPU.
yeah, you're right, sata is not the thing I would like to change by myself :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
fortunately PPCs has wide range of this cables, starting from 8" and up to 36" with and without angles - have to scratch the head to choose right one :)
btw there were two 12" cables in box I received today, hopefully they will be fine
I've heard that Heatkiller lapping doesn't improve anything, but not about CPU lapping (while using HK) :shrug: My temps didn't went higher after lapping thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s