Wow!! Look famiar? Hey Bei Fei!

[mjtir]

Tim , are there any plans to combine with COV-RP400 ?

[Waterlogged]

For those that didn't like the acrylic Koolance top.

[Church]

For full bling set only thing that's left - to sleeve pump's wires

[OC Maximus]

Wish I had the space in my mini-tower for a heatsink, pump, pump top and reservoir. I really like that setup Waterlogged.

[Waterlogged]

Somehow I expect to see waterblocks for those kits in a while (possibly DIY'ed) .

Your wish is my command.

We have a design for that, too. But there aren't any current plans to produce it.

Tim

You sure about that? BTW, I found a use for that GPU-220 that didn't fit my GFX card.

[Johnny87au]

looking sweet their waterlogged , I remember the days when everyone was fully against koolance, Koolance is taking over now hehe well starting too!

[Koolance]

Tim , are there any plans to combine with COV-RP400 ?

We don't have plans to sell them as one product. COV-RP400 "works" with this heat sink, but the 120mm mounting bracket included with COV-RP400 currently doesn't align with HTS-PMP400 (which is being corrected in the future).

You sure about that? BTW, I found a use for that GPU-220 that didn't fit my GFX card.

Ha! Microfin block for the pump... I think the only thing left now is a DDC LN2 pot.

Tim

[NaeKuh]

You sure about that? BTW, I found a use for that GPU-220 that didn't fit my GFX card.

And people laughed at me for watercooling my SAS controller.



At least mine killed all the noise.

[Utnorris]

And people laughed at me for watercooling my SAS controller.



At least mine killed all the noise.

Yeah, I got told I was basically an idiot for WC'ing my PERC5i card on overclock.net. I figured I had the block and it was quieter, so why not.

[avddreamr]

Great thread, great product, I guess the question is will this work with my existing top. I have an ek top v2.... have to check out the threading.

[rioja]

[Church]

Hmm, cannot it be simply dremeled off? I'd prefer rev2 though, that works with dual tops aswell :/

[Koolance]

Rioja: I'm not sure about general compatibility with dual tops, but you don't need the heat sink bracket to face side-to-side like that. It can be rotated front-to-back (relative to the nozzles/top). You just have to make sure the wire coming out of the pump during installation is oriented correctly for the bottom bracket. (This is illustrated on an earlier page, it relates to the pump wire solder points.)

Tim

[SmugBoy]

When I look at the install diagram and the pictures it seems like they are different, the mounting sides vs. the small bracket with out screw holes.

Can someone provide dimensions of the Koolance heat sink and mounting bracket and orientation?

I bet some modding is involved, but thats what we do, Dremel, grinder, duct tape...

[Waterlogged]

Well, the main body can be rotated 90° from that position in relation to the top, so those tabs are in the "front" and "back". The minimum center to center distance between the holes in the dual top would need to be about 13.8mm from the rough measurements I was able to take of the PMP-AC400 I have for them to work with a dual top.

Anyone out there that a has a dual top or two that could take some accurate measurements?

[lowfat]

I don't suppose anyone has tried to use these w/ a dual top yet? If not can anyone using a ddc dual top can anyone take a pic showing how close the two pumps sit together?


Also Koolance, are screw holes on the bottom of the heatsink meant to fit any fan size or no?

[MagisD]

I'd like to know ifs it's works on swiftechs new mcp-35x ....?

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[Waterlogged]

I'd like to know ifs it's works on swiftechs new mcp-35x ....?

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

Just tested on mine. . .

[MagisD]

Just tested on mine. . .

Crap..... now i gota buy 2. ....lol

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[Creekin]

^

I can't wait to see the bill for "Overkill"

[luke997]

Hi,
Some have been wondering whether 2 of these heatsinks - 2 Koolance HTS-PMP400 - fit to the EK Dual DDC V2 Top - the answer is - yes, with a little help of a dremel.

Here's a way to do it:

1) One of the "sidepods" on each of the metal frame has to be removed:





2) Here's the frame after cutting of not needed bit:



Cut piece vs uncut:



3) Here's the clearance after cutting and mounting:



4) Here's the heatsinks on:



5) Finished product - looks quite nice - and definitely much better than my old plastic housing cut with a dremel



I'll post it to both threads where the questions were - so it will be easier to find the answer.

[MrBean]

Ah, nice effort, Luke, I like.

I have ordered 2 off these to go with my RP-401X2 reservoir and 2x 3.25 Laings for my Project. As you have done, I will need to mod the brackets to fit to this reservoir. But, the end-result will look pretty decent.

I note you have 2 different brackets - old and new revisions?

ps: Apologies for reviving this one

[Waterlogged]

WOW! Good catch on that Beany ol boy.

Luke, in step 3, the housing on the left has the wrong orientation. It should be 90° so that the solder joints for the wires are in one of the open areas.

[MrBean]

Hehe - no worries, Waterlogged - saw he had two different revision-brackets, so I guess he will have to dremel a notch to accommodate the cables, as he can't rorate the bracket really.....pity about the revision-differences....

Just glad you pointed me in the direction of the Heatsinks a few days ago.....so now at least the Wife can blame someone else for once

[luke997]

I note you have 2 different brackets - old and new revisions?

I got 3 heatsinks from 2 shops, 1 was older revision - the bracket is a bit different and you have to cut the thermal pad yourself - new revision have it ready cut.

Luke, in step 3, the housing on the left has the wrong orientation. It should be 90° so that the solder joints for the wires are in one of the open areas.

Hehe - no worries, Waterlogged - saw he had two different revision-brackets, so I guess he will have to dremel a notch to accommodate the cables, as he can't rorate the bracket really.....pity about the revision-differences....

I thought about it while doing it, however:
1) Top and bottom parts (orientation as on the photo) are securing the frame around the pump and as it's surely for a reason. If I moved it by 90 I would have to cut it so they would "squeeze" the lower frame in place anymore.

2) There is enough clearance between the solder/wires and the housing to eliminate any risk of shorting - so I had no need to dremel it for that.

BTW - obviously the left one is the old revision but in case if anyone wonders...