Thanks for the update! Only Performance is receiving a shipment, or are they being sent to the others who previously carried them as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
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Thanks for the update! Only Performance is receiving a shipment, or are they being sent to the others who previously carried them as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Moddersmart will have stock Thursday. They have a few with the extra port now.
As far as I know, Performance got 50 of the Pumped ones, and 50 of the non pumped 8 port reservoir version. I think Primo is just going down their list of who ordered when and filling each as they have parts to ship. Not for sure though.
Thanks again for the update!
Just spent all night reading this thread from start to finish!
Just designing myself a new system, which will go into a MM Ascension case, everything is sorted except for the front panel, the style of which hinges on how I will change my loops and their requirements.
Currently I run 2 separate loops.
#1 Micro res -> 655 -> 360 Fessler -> HK 3.0 (i7 975) ->BP VREG ->BP NB
Planning on adding a Fessler 240 between HK 3.0 & VREG n 1/2"
#2 Micro res -> 655-B -> 240 Fessler -> 2x285 GTW (Original) with EVGA HC blocks on 3/8"
Planning on upgrading to 360 Fessler
I have my rads with shrouds in a pull config. I have the EK tops on both my pumps.
The T3 looks and sounds good, but with this set-up would I be better with 2 rather than just one?
Heat is a big issue for me, I live in S. Florida so anything to drop my temps is a plus!
Fluid is something that is worrying me, I used to use Primochill, but I added one of their dye bombs and it clogged up my system, it separated from the fluid and basically sent a 360 rad to the trash. I've used Fessler ever since.
Currently I am considering the T3, changing pumps and going with the XSPC dual or getting the EK res's with the waterfall.
Unless I am mistaken, the T3 seems to improve flow rate, but how much - if at all - does it improve temps?
It will probably not improve temps, but may not hurt them either, at least in my setup that was the result. The new XSPC top is a true dual loop configuration with two pumps and two separate chambers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
Well, the micro rezes would be gone from the loops with eiter solution so scratch them.
So, after the upgrades you would have a PAIR of 360's and a 240? Unless they are for aesthetics in a mod, seems overkill (not that overkill isn't usually the BEST kill =) to me. I am in WAY South Texas, officially a sub tropic so we have the same weather.
Whether or not more flow will help will largely depend on how you configure the loops. Not the answer you want I know. Keeping in mind I have at least a perceived bias towards the T3, it seems like the extra flow would benefit you if you do use all the radiators you mentioned because radiators like the extra flow.
If the XSPC dual is acrylic or polycarbonate it will also have issues with the ethylene glycol in any fluids.
Maybe Skinnee or Vapor could advise you better on the actual flow rates you could expect with the parts you listed.
Are you o/c'ing the cpu or the gpu's?
I want to get the Typhoon III but have a question.
Since I have a faceplate covering my drive bays, can I move the reservoir towards the inside of the case more? I know I won't be able to see it from the front, but I can still see it through the case side window.
I also understand I may have to drill some holes to mount in the drive bays to seat it further back?
Thanks.
Planning on taking the 240 from the video card loop and adding it to the CPU/NB loop and getting another 360 for the VC loop. So a total of 3 rads.
When I aded the VREG/NB blocks I saw a 1 - 2 degree increase at idle temps, so thought is adding a 240 there will help bring them down.
Run at 4Ghz 24/7 and am looking at 47 degrees at idle on CPU loop. Same on VC but it goes up to around 60 with anythng much of a load. Only OC the VC's when I am benching.
If I do go with the T3, will I need one or 2 units with this set-up?
Yes you can slide it back behind a face plate. There are custom machined aluminum face plates for the T3 also that will be available in a few weeks. You can check back a page or two for some pictures.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
I do believe one would be enough if you laid out the loops optimally. What that lay out would be for your particular set up might take a bit of experimenting--which it does not sound like you are shy about doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
Utnorris replaced a two pump dual loop system with a single pump T3 and his temperatures held at what they were previously, without the second pump. He added another rad when he switched out to the single D5 T3 which no doubt helped, but he still ended up with less total radiator then your looking at.
From a total possible cost perspective (does not seem like cost is something your shy about either but it IS a consideration) I think it breaks down best depending on what pumps you have now.
one T3 and one D5 or the worst case 2 T3's and 2 D5's
vs
one XSPC Dual and 2 DDC's or worst case 2 XSPC Duals and 4 DDC's
Go with what you have "in stock"
What deters me from putting everything on just one loop is the amount of heat the vc loop puts out. I am running 2 x EVGA 285 FTW's, I run 24/7 at factory clock of 720, when benching have had them over 800. If I am in a gaming mood and play all day they can easily reach 60 degrees +.
Room temps can get into low 80's when hubby's machine is on also, so I have to look at getting maximum cooling.
Having already got 2 x D5's cost wise the T3 is definately the way to go! Guess best way is to buy one and just see how it goes in various different configurations.
If I do combine both loops, has anyone tried with different diameter tubes? One loop is 1/2 and the other 3/8.
If you start with one and are close but think you have room for improvement...can always add the second one. I would not just get two right off. With as much radiator as you have, it might still make sense to use one loop of each T3 for the rad/s on that leg.Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
The different or mixed tube sizes is actually a very interesting thought. Had not occurred to me yet, but I will tinker with that when some time frees up.
I use 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tube and still have a bunch of Primochill LRT in that size left.
I don't see any compression fitting size for my tube, what are the options for 7/16 ID tube users?
I would hate to buy new tubes because I invested in a bunch of $$$ Compression BP fittings in various flavors.
Guys have made the BP comp fittings work by switching out the BP o-ring for a thicker o-ring. It seems something like Swiftech's o-rings work pretty well.Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
You can also use these ghost fittings barbs if you wish.
http://www.primochill.com/primochill...ng-2-pack.html
http://www.primochill.com/images/pro...b7905cf88f.jpg
Yeah, I'm one of the ones who switched the o-rings on their BP compressions with Swiftech o-rings. The ones I used were from Swiftech High Flows (i.e. their chrome barbs). Their awful nylon barbs have o-rings that are a little bit too big and will end up being loose.
Anyways, that solution has been working fine and leakfree for me for the past three weeks or so.
I am going to see if Brian can find the correct size O ring (the thicker one) and sell just the O rings for .10 cents or w/e so people don't havr to buy the whole fitting to get the O ring. That or at least find the Correct size and a store online that sells them. There are also some very sexy metal compression fitting coming--will be a while though.
Really? Sorry don't mean to doubt you, but it looks to me like there's a pretty significant lip at the front.:confused: Just want to clarify.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
O-rings for people to use: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/reo.html
Just use 2 per fitting (so 1 extra per fitting) and you'll be good to go :up:
(getting the bigger o-ring is a slightly more elegant solution, I'll admit)
I cannot support the use of two o-rings back to back without at least putting a washer between them. I have seen too many o-rings roll off of the other ring, leaving a gap between the two.
on the BP highflows, two o-rings doesn't give enough thread exposed to get the barbs in and secure. :(
i could use some tips from the experts who played with everything.
i use just normal barbs that comes with my blocks, or the ones i had to instal into my heatercores, and i clamp them with normal worm gear clamps. however with the T3 i dont think i can really reach in there from a side angle to screw in the worm gears, (but honestly i can if i need too, its not that bad). i just dont like the clamps that came with the T3, i had leaking issues cause they were loosened up a little, and i so i just used vice grips to lightly grab the plastic fittings and tighten until i was comfortable.
im thinking i will be taking off the outside clamp of the T3 standard clamps and use my own worm gears, or unless you guys can recommend me something else (i really dont know what else is out there). but the goal is something that will not leak and easy to install and work with (the T3 ones really twisted up my tubes and i had to put them in first or have fun spinning the tubs on the other side of the line)
IMO, the easiest way to install the tubing on the T3.
Install the T3 and measure your tubes coming off of it. Remove the T3 and install the tubes to it outside the case, then snake everything back in and secure those tubes to your blocks or rads.
It's a lot easier than trying to reach into your drive bays.
No not at all...better to be sure B4 you spend your monies for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
Have to agree as O rings are famous for getting along while your looking at them...then the second your not, one slips off. Better to just go with the fatter ones IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Z3VH
Not sure why your having an issue with the compression fittings. Tighten them finger tight, then about 1/4 (1/2 at most) turn more. If your having trouble getting the extra tightening, just cut a short--like 1/2"--length of tubing from some scrap. Slit it lengthwise so you can easily slip it onto the barb, and use a pair of common pliers to tighten the barb down. The tubing will protect it against scratches.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
The compression rings do NOT need to be really cranked down hard to make a seal as they are mostly to make sure a kid or whomever doesn't reach in and yank a tube off of a fitting. Hold the tube with your left hand while tightening the compression with your right hand in case it wants to spin.
Do the same when removing a compression ring. hold the tube with one hand and loosen the ring with the other.
Yeah, I have big hands that are old and beat up so working on ANYTHING in those tight spaces is too much of a PITA for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
The Coolmaster drivebay systems is a bit of a hassle with the T3 as it doesn't work with it. I found that you can only screw it in on one side as the holes on the other side are for the lower holes and the T3's holes are the upper ones. I found that if you bend that spring tab inwards though, it seems to hold that other side of the res fairly well.
I forgot to take photos, but if you have a coolermaster case with that latch system, you will see what I'm talking about.
I got the MB installed and the loop bleed for the most part. It is alive. :D I just hope it stays that way. :yepp:
You can see my subloops in the sig.
It seems my GPU (700/1500/1200) idles @ 37 peaks @ 41 playing Crysis warhead
CPU (stock still atm) idles @ 35 peaks @ 40 playing Crysis Warhead
I'll keep an eye on these and update later one when I get my CPU OC'ed.
edit: room temp 23.89 degrees
I have a Cosmos Black Label with that latch system as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Thinking of getting a T3 to replace my EK Res. Care to show some pics of the problem with the drive latch?
Much appreciated!
I can't without tearing it all down again. (well I may have to anyways seeing I can't seem to keep these stupid Asus Striker II Formula boards running :shakes:)Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
You have to remove the latch on the 2 bays you are going to fit the T3 into. You will see screw holes once you do. Those are where you screw into to mount the T3. (If you wish to flush mount it, you will have to drill the holes a little further back.) Then if you look into the drive bay, you will see the metal tabs that normally put pressure onto your dvd drive to hold it in when you push the button to lock it in. If you take a screwdriver and bend those tabs a little further into the bay it will help to hold that side of the T3 as you can't put any screws into it.
You mean it's not flushed when installed? Unless you drill new holes that is.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Can the door be closed though if it isn't flushed?
Yea, it doesn't stick any further than the drive bay covers. You move the hole back by like 1mm. It's not much at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
Awesome. I hope future revisions follows the CD/DVD-ROM hole standards, so all those latches can work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Personally, I've never had problems with double o-rings at all before. . .but then again, I've always used double o-rings with fittings that had a well seated captive o-ring and the double was going to be sitting in one of those silly Swiftech recesses. If you use a o-ring that fits the T3 recess right but is small enough to allow proper thread engagement, I don't see why doubling wouldn't work on the T3 either. :shrug:
The T3 fits every case in my shop...about 10 different Lian-Li's, and maybe 10-15 more Silver stones, Older Chieftech etc...I need to make a video for mounting them in the cases with the ez mount rails...need to get one firsts though :DQuote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
FYI PPCs got them in.
thanks for the tips, i messed up by not being able to really tighten down the barb first until after i had the compression fitting on, when i go to duel loop, when i care to get more tygon, ill do it your way.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
also btw i need longer screws, i have acrylic holding these in, and the ones supplied are too short. is there anything similar to threading of your screws? i dont really have much to try it with since i have custom standoffs for my HDDs and i dont think its a standard cdrom screw.
The T3 PEC at $65.95, and the MCP655 w/ speed controller at $77.95?
Or the T3 Vario at $152.95?
Hello every one. I will try not to make this lengthy, but to best describe my experiences it may become that way.
I wanted to post here, as this specific thread led to my decision to purchase the Primochill Typhoon III. I am not new to modding or OC’ing and have many years of builds under my belt, my first being a 333mghz machine in 96. But I am new to watercooling and wanted to do it right. So I did my research first, choosing the parts I purchased by listening to the people who use them and their experiences/comments. I saw many negative comments about the fittings that come with this unit and the o-rings and the recessed o-ring grooves. I saw people say they didn't get any better performance/temps using the dual loops. But I read what was in this thread and made the choice to go with this unit as it fulfilled five of my goals, to save space, to run dual loops, to have a dual bay reservoir, it looks nice from the front of the case, and so many people here are talking highly of it.
I found it easy to install in my NZXT Tempest case (though I needed some longer screws), and easy to mount the MCP655 pump. The fittings, though plastic and proprietary to this unit, didn't leak even though I could move the hose a little within the compression fitting by hand. I ran the loops outside on the floor on a dark towel for 24 hours before installing everything in the case. Everything went well during pre-testing, install, and for about a week of overclocking and testing.
After many attempts at OCing my MB/CPU, and many voltage tweaks for stability, I found a stable 3.66 with an 1833fsb. All was going great. I was happy with my OC, was finally stable in Prime95 for 20 minutes several times, the CPU temp never went above 63 at load during those 20 minutes, so I decided to go for the 24 hour torture test.
Now to the part that doesn't make me so happy.
At about an hour into the CPU torture test my CPU maxed out at 66C. After a couple of hours I noticed a small amount of fluid under my case. I shut down and went looking for the source of the leak. When I opened the fill port at the top of the system (not the fill ports on the Typhoon III) fluid came out quickly as it was under a little pressure. After taking everything apart I found that the Typhoon III had developed cracks at the lower fitting hole on the return side of the unit. By design you can only hand tighten the fittings that come with the unit, so it’s not an issue of over tightening a fitting. It was only after the water temps went up to 66 degrees Celsius and remained there for over two hours during the 100% CPU test did the leak develop. So I’m wondering if the small cracks were there when I purchased the unit and only after the cooling system heated up and pressurized did they start to leak. To test it outside the cooling loop I ran tubes from the inlet to the outlet ports to seal it, and filled it up with cold water to test it. It did not leak. I then put the unit on the back porch to heat up in the sun. After 15 minutes or so the leak was evident. So I cannot tell you if they were there before or not as it wasn’t until after about a week during a stress test of the system that the leak started. Or maybe it was an issue with pressure within the cooling system after the system ran for hours at 100% CPU load that caused the crack in the possible faulty manufactured unit.
I am in the process of hooking everything back up without the typhoon. I have to put my video loop on the same loop as my MB now and am curious what the affects will be of having 6 WB’s in the same loop, and without having a res at all.
I sent an email to Brain at primochill a few days ago but have yet to receive a response.
Wow that is not good. I have one of these on the way. This is the first really negative information I have read though so it sounds like you may have just got unlucky. It just makes it worse that they haven't responded to you. Hopefully your post here will draw the attention and help from BoxGods.
What are you using for coolant by the way?
Well add the 2 up and add in shipping and handling and see what's cheaper. They're both going to get you to the same end result. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
Calling him is easiest. The number is on Primochill's site. Did you get one with the yellow band?Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoofyOne
Edit: o and +1 on Centurychild. Where you using Feser 1 or anything with Glycol in it, or was it distilled water?
Unless of course when you order the two together the pump does not come with its retail mounting kit and only comes with the hardware necessary to mount it to the reservoir. That, and some places sell the items separately in which case the shipping for both items will be comparable to the shipping for one.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I noticed the discrepancy as well, but figured that it probably relates to the extra cost of installation and/or packaging. Plus, if someone has a problem with their pump, will Primchill be tasked with handling the warranty claims? That there could very well be the the major reason for the slightly higher cost.
The mounting screws to install the T3 in your case are M3.5 so any M3.5 that are long enough to compensate for the extra thickness of your acrylic case will be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
Yeah, Brian likely gets a ton of email (takes forever to answer mine) so your best bet is to either call, or start a support ticket at PrimoChill. I got a hold of Mel at PrimoChill just now and she checked and said there were no support tickets pending...so I would just start a ticket.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoofyOne
About the pressure. Typically a PC water cooling loop's operational pressure is under 5 PSI and ALL Typhoon III's are pressure tested to at least 20 PSI.
They are also tested in a more real world fashion in that a machine with a plate with rubber stoppers that are pressed into place is not used. A real fitting with an O ring is inserted by hand to populate all the ports and an actual D5 is installed. Then the T3 is pressurized with air to 20 PSI and submerged in water for 5 full minutes of observation. That way all the actual O ring surfaces are checked as well as the bonded seam.
The T3 is then dried off with a towel and polished with a blue micro fiber cloth. The last step before packaging is hand inspection that includes a full spectrum light that makes any cracks stand out like a neon sign.
The current fail rate is 2 per 100 or 2%.
That is not to say one didn't sneak by of course, or that some chemical like ethylene glycol or alcohol was not put in or on your part by mistake.
**UPDATE**
Just talked to Brian and he said he does not have an email about this issue. If you can get a ticket started within the next 30 minutes or so your replacement can ship today.
Got some photos for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
The redrilled holes with screws mounted:
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...9/P1000270.jpg
The metal tab (look in the empty bay, you will see them):
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...9/P1000269.jpg
T3 mounted:
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...9/P1000266.jpg
Edit: link to an internal shot: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=650
Thanks for the pics, I see what you are saying now.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I didn't go through the whole thread but I think some faceplates are incoming for the T3? The acrylic or whatever clear material it's made of doesn't fit well with black case IMO.
Thx Miller
Clearer understanding of it now :)
Just wondering, if installing together with the T3, possible to buy any pump accessories for the MCP655?
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Nice clean build man, and thanks for the pictures...make it a LOT easier to understand...
Yea there are some faceplates and BoxGods has some templetes that you can use to paint the face. My camera sucks, it doesn't look that bad in real life, but the black faceplate should make it look better. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
Not certain what your asking for here. Are you asking about the Bitspower kit? I did look into that, but I don't think it will work. It seems that the collar is part of the housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2066_27829953
The pump sits fairly far into the drivebays. A few guys here just painted the housing on theirs. It will void the warrenty, but it will make it blend in a little nicer. You can also rotate the pump so the sticker faces down. I left mine facing up as you don't really see it and I liked the wires being at the bottom of the pump and not the top.
Thanks much Geno. I'm doing my best to climb my way up to your guy's level. Still got a way to go though. ;)
can the primochill typhoon III be used with the old school mcp600 pumps? or is it strictly meant to be used with the d5?
It looks like there is a T3 on Amazon now.
Man Geno, this thing really is a breeze to fill and bleed. I've gotten the hang of it now seeing I have drained. filled . and bled this thing, I think like 8 times already. I found that if you slowly fill and pinch the tubes it seems to help. The only annoying part is getting the first initial amount of air out of the pump inlet. Once you do that, the thing bleeds nicely.
Sorry your getting put through the ringer wit that ASUS board...I have never had an issue with them so lucky so far.
Yea, I went out to MicroCenter this weekend and got the Gigabyte board. The more reviews I read, showed some of the same issues popping up with the Asus maximus board. I couldn't find anything bad about the Gigabyte board (outside of the color scheme). The board was a healthy clocker and even though it didn't perform as well as other P45 boards that cost more, it was still hanging with them. I'm just going to send that striker board back in and put it on Ebay when it comes back.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I was using Feser 1. Not sure how I missed that when doing my research.
I have ordered another Typhoon III and will use distilled water only.
Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
I have also sent another email to Brian at Primochill advising him to disregard my complaint.
That is funny (not that you used the feeser one) that Brian just emailed me saying he found your email in the spam folder of another email account so I popped in here to post that he found your email...and here is your post.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoofyOne
Don't feel bad about missing the fesser fluids thing, quite a few people are and at least you manned up and said my bad...a lot just swear they didn't and blame the T3. I hope Brian gives you a break on the price of the new one just for being an honest guy.
It is designed for the D5 as a pump top with combined res. Yes you will need a D5 for this.Quote:
Originally Posted by idleuser
So G,
When am I going to get my hands on one of those black faceplates. ;)
join me in quest to end asus put the asus image url in my sig in your sig and save people from deadly taiwanese engineering.:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I'm not mad at them. Their RMA department has treated me just fine and has been very helpful. (Once I got past the guy that didn't even know what a motherboard was and the other guy that really wasn't listening to me. :shakes:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chumbucket843
I just wish that would put the same amount of time they put into making it look good into making it perform without issues, so I didn't have to RMA it twice. :yepp:
Not to try and pull things somewhat back onto topic, but is there any news about the faceplate for the TIII?
Asus rocks IMHO. I proudly BUY their products for my personal rigs. I also had dinner and hung out with a couple of their people at QuakeCon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chumbucket843
Is everyone happy with the T3? I didn't go with this product mostly due to timing and because I found another that did the same thing at least as good if not better for cheaper... but I wanted to know if anyone regrets not going with the XSPC dual bay ddc res
Well, you can't call the XSPC cheaper. In order to run parallel loops with a XSPC, you need 2 pumps. The T3 only needs 1 pump to run parallel loops.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon K
I'm plenty happy with mine. It was a great investment. it really cleaned up the inside of the rig and the temps have been solid.
My P5N-D works just fine. The Striker II Formula was the board I was having problems with. The main reason I just got the Gigabyte was that I started to read reviews about it and the Maximus II Formula and saw that the Gigabyte perform great and was half the cost. I also saw that people were having some of the same issues I was having with my Striker, so I decided to just get the Gigabyte. No ill feelings toward Asus, just felt more comfortable wtih the Gigabyte.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
I went with the XSPC dual bay res/dual pump top, so no experience with the T3. It was mainly about having dual pumps for a dual loop setup, and the T3 didn't offer it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon K
Much of respect to BoxGods, for such an great and innovative product!
It is also great for confusing n00bs like me, when i first stumbled across this product, my mind was instantly trying to find innovative ways to use Typhoon III, and after bit of brainstorming i came up with this idea: single loop with two pumps, T3+D5 acting as two pumps instead of one! Like T3 -> CPU -> Rad -> T3 again -> GPU -> Rad -> T3..
After few minutes of planning the loop further, realization struck: my great plan was ultimately simple parallel loop and this thingy had been planned to do that all along, no big innovation hath been discovered, and i was left blushing at my own stubidity..
by reading this whole thread i got a little bit confused in the middle xD as there was so many drama's and trolling... a quick question :x
If i wanted to cool my gpu for example 2x 285's normally we would do 2 loops, 1 for cpu alone and 1 for gpu alone, so we have to buy 2 pumps, 2 rads, more fittings, etc.
with the T3+Mp655 we don't need to buy 2 reservoirs nor pumps anymore ? :D less spending would be yay!
T3a -> Rad -> CPU -> NB -> Reservoir
T3b -> Rad -> 2x GPU -> Reservoir ?
Basically correct. It would be more like:Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinzaku
T3a -> Rad -> CPU -> NB -> T3a
T3b -> Rad -> 2x GPU -> T3b
100% sure ? oh my... this is very tempting xDQuote:
Originally Posted by nypunkgeek
basically just need to buy a radiator now.. don't need to buy anymore pumps, reservoirs, fittings etc.. O-o brilliant!
I assume using 1 triple rad for both gpu and cpu even with Primo won't be enough ? hehe
T3a -> Rad(1) -> CPU -> NB -> T3a
T3b -> Rad(2) -> 2x GPU -> T3b
Could be, depends on radiator, fans, cpu/gpu/overclock etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinzaku
I would feel safe with two triples total for the system. I am currently running a triple and a double and have great temps with a 920, full classified block, and a single 285GTX all very overclocked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinzaku
Where are your temps right now? i forgot to ask you in your other thread. You might be ok with 1 360 for the CPU and NB and a 240 or 360 for the GPUs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinzaku
It is a nice piece. I enjoy mine. :yepp:
Just waiting for BoxGods to stop slacking and get those faceplates done. :yepp: ;)
Face plate pics tonight. They fit awesome and look killer so PrimoChill is placing the order for at least a hundred shortly. The only issue I saw with the samples is that they got the brushed pattern going the wrong way...I was sure they would on the sample anyway lol so no big shock there.
My plotter is FINALLY back from the repair shop and I hope to have it back up and running today or tomorrow...so I should have the little paint masks ready to send out by the end of the week "ish" for those wanting to paint their T3's
Good job i pointed the brushed effect issue out last week in this thread otherwise Brian would have at least a hundred $30 paper weights on his hands and that would be an expensive faux pas in anyones book ;)
Right, cause none of the rest of us would have noticed... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
That's why we get SAMPLES though. The image your referring too was a render. Can't have too may eyes checking for mistakes before the money is spent. Always feel free to point stuff out as it's MUCH better to catch things before the chips start flying.
OK. Picture time woot. These are the first actual production samples. As CoolerMeister pointed out, the "grain" or brushed pattern in the silver and the black anodized versions is running left to right, but it will run up and down in the final ones--these were just to verify the fit etc before the production run.
What you can almost start to get from the pictures is that the machined aluminum face plates have about a half inch of depth...it just looks amazing in person because you see that depth in the basins...it is not the typical flat faced acrylic reservoir with a thin "2D" face plate screwed on.
The finishes to start will be brushed and anodized silver and black and a polished aluminum.
The silver colors looked awesome with a blue fluid but no pics as the batteries in Brian's camera died =(
Also, the clear polycarbonate plugs that ship with the T3 are smaller and less obvious and look better IMHO. Brian has also asked me to design a custom metal plug that is smaller and uses a smaller wrench. Will post pics of those when they show up.
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_01.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_02.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_03.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_04.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_05.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_06.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_07.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_08.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_09.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_10.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/T3_FP_11.jpg
The white line you see on the edge is light coming through from the T3 and obviously would not be there when installed in your case.
Also, I forgot to mention but it looks like the price will be under $30 USD which for a faceplate machined from a solid 1/2" thick chunk of aluminum is very reasonable in my book.
And yes Shazza...if you REALLY REALLY want one anodized pink, I will see if they can make one just for you.
:shocked:
Those look absolutely amazing. I will for sure be buying a black one. That first picture with the polished aluminum makes it look like an entirely different reservoir.
Very very nice geno.
They look great. I can't wait to get mine up and running with the black face and the red.
Those are so gorgeous.......
The depth is like the difference between an attractive flat chested woman and a hottie with a FAT rack =)
Yeah...in person, the polished one has a very strong Cylon Centurion like feel/look. thanks for the comment =)Quote:
Originally Posted by viper2004
Um...not to objectify women or anything...cause I would never do that ;) but oh yeah!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsaroth
I'm sorry, those pictures were too small for me to see. Can you make them any bigger? :ROTF: :rofl:
When are they due to arrive in the EU?
I really want the black faceplate.
Agreed on changing the plugs to something that fits in a little better but without doubt these will look real nice in a stock Lian Li or Coolermaster chassis :up:
Yea, I agree with you on the clear plugs Geno, they do look better than the metal ones. I'll be in line for one of the black faceplates too. :up:
Box, what fluid is that in there? id like to get that kind of red in mine
PrimoChill fluid and a blood red dye bomb.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
ok box, you seem to be using alot of primochill things, i have most of my tubing as tygon which goes fro 3-4$ a foot, how does it compare to the primochill stuff for 2-2.5$ a foot?
Hm, I seem to recall pointing that out a bit sooner. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=222
Brian from Primochill actually took those pictures and mixed that dye bomb. I have never ordered their red before though based on those pictures I might :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
Their tubing on the other hand is very popular and I have used a lot of it. I used the tygon for years and I would go with the PrimoFlex LRT over it every time because it really DOES turn tighter radius's without squashing or kinking.
If it is good enough for $20K murder boxes...
The incorrect brush direction was not really the point of his post Bai Fei so it doesn't matter who pointed it out first as long as it gets fixed =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
CoolerMeister has made it known he is not very fond of the T3 (which is his right) and he was being a gentleman by linking to his thread rather then making comments in this thread, which I appreciate and shows a lot of class.
As a product designer himself he holds me and the T3 to a different standard and anyone not sure about buying the T3 should absolutely read his thread before buying so they can make a decision based on as many views as possible.
I have added or corrected as many of the features and fixes he mentioned as I can. There is now a version of the T3 with a top port available, though many people who have actually had a chance to try the front ports are now saying they love them. He thought the pump mounting plate should be thicker and new T3's will be shipping with a 3/8" mounting plate instead of a 1/4". He also thought there should be a notch in the side for cases with the optical drive installation training wheel tabs so users didn't have to bend the tabs back. Missing that notch was a mistake on my part no bones about it. The down side of injection molding is that once you have spent 25K on the molds what you have is what you get. For the foreseeable future people with those cases will just have to bend the tabs back or get the XSPC Dual bay (which I have been told he prefers or is pleased with).
The Phillips/cross point screws are being changed out also for the socket head hex which I wanted originally also.
wow $25K on molds, maybe you should have your dentist make them next time, insurance may cover it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA,
Man, imagine how much they would be if a Dentist really did do them though. Those molds (which I thankfully did NOT pay for) would shock most people with their size and complexity. You know how big the T3 is and you would think the molds might be like maybe 3-4 inches bigger all around but they are actually HUGE...like a 2 foot by 3 foot block. I guess its because the hot plastic is forced in with several hundred tons of pressure and it would suck if the mold exploded.
They also have these ejector pins and closable gates and all kinds of stuff. I have seen video and this little guy reaches into this like maw and slips the inserts onto locator pins, the top hydraulically clamps down, the machine does the shot, maw opens and the part is ejected and the little guy hustles the next batch of inserts in place...and it looked like it was a timed cycle, not switched so I would hate to be the guy who reaches in there...you have to be fast but also careful because the brass inserts can scratch the aluminum and those scratches then have to be polished out.
I switched from Tygon R3603 to Primochill PRO LRT and I don't regret it at all. The Tygon cloouds too easily. The colored tubing just rocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
Another gold star for water. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I think the T3 gets a bad rap more so because of a certain group rather than it's actual performance. There were issues, but most if not have been corrected. I was on of the first to get the T3 and I have been happy ever since. I did have issues, but Box Gods took those issues and fixed them, i.e. the top port for large cases. Does the T3 work for everyone? No, but does any water cooling part? Even what type of fittings are best are debated daily in various forums. I really wish folks would look at a product for what it is designed for and not what it wasn't designed for. I think that would be a better approach than what has been happening lately. But as it has been stated before, "You cannot please everyone."
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Perfectly stated Norris. :up:
Here is a problem I discovered and have not seen on the forums yet - perhaps I missed it.
I have my TIII installed on its side and am using one of the two rear ports as an inlet. The channels on either side of the ports are too close to allow the use of a compression fitting. It took some very careful work with my trusty Dremel to widen the opening.
I suppose a standard barb would fit but that is not the way I am wired.
BoxGods, perhaps this is a future mod?
I agree with UT. Who would listen to arseclowns who drive away MM? Of what value is the MMembers Only jacket then? What kind of idiot says they will test and review this product that they thinks sucks even before laying hands on it? Then they whine about shills when their leader comes up with a business plan predicates on shilling? There is Anton of Koolaid being consumed and it is not at XS. The only problem here is the admin and mods are too over-protective and censor the people who would shed light on the roaches thus furthering the roaches' agendas which is soley to tear down XS and it's contributors. I wish someone like Kyle from [H] would handle the issue for XS. He would stomp the roach into the ground.
I'm a little lost on what you did genec. Can you post a photo?Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
I have a 24" wide screen, and I can't see those pictures without scrolling. What a silly thing to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler358
Just for the record, i actually think the concept behind the T3 is fantastic but it was more the aesthetics that didn't agree with me but that's all down to personal taste which we all have the luxury to comment on with any product whether it be good or bad and for me it was just a bit to "busy" looking though the addition of the front aluminium bezel goes a long way to correct that in my personal opinion.
The few small functional issues i found and pointed out were just my attempt to help improve the product on further runs which again i'm glad to see most if not all are being addressed though i do understand that these things don't and can't happen over night which is totally understandable given the initial cost of the mould.
I purposely stayed away from the hype around performance running dual loop from one T3 as i decided to run dual loop from two separate units so i'm in no position to comment on those performance figures but i can say that i'm more than happy with the way mine perform running single loop though i'd have been more surprised if it hadn't performed well in that respect given its basically a D5 running a multiple block loop which shouldn't prove too hard a task.
For me its the idea of having a pump / res combo that sits tight in a couple of dual bays and eliminates a lot of hose clutter which allows for a nice clean set-up plus the fact i found them easy to set up and bleed also which gets my vote though i do understand its not everyone's idea of fun, flipping their case onto its back to fill though i had no problem with that at all.
Its all about options and the T3 certainly adds a new dimension to our ever expanding hobby so i'm all for that and humbled that Brian gave me the opportunity to try them out and in no way was i trying to discredit the concept but more so adding a few suggestions for the betterment and progression of the product which we all benefit from in the long run.
While you're at it. Would you mind asking if they can do bright yellow? Not gold but yellow. My case has a black/yellow theme. Black will work but yellow would be, well, just awsesome.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
:ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
Shazza got you in trouble it seems Geno. :p:
Oh Geno that silly fella. He sure is a swell guy by gollyQuote:
Originally Posted by Capt Proton