Let's not mention the fact that the single T3 will power two rigs in teh build (and one PSU). No, that would just be showboating. Four 3d monitors built in would also be a little grandiose ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Printable View
Let's not mention the fact that the single T3 will power two rigs in teh build (and one PSU). No, that would just be showboating. Four 3d monitors built in would also be a little grandiose ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Only 4 displays DB? Wow. Haven't you done that B4 like 2-3 times? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
What he isn't mentioning is that he has gotten tired of hefting his 100 pound rigs so Trek will have DB type wheels, ans a suspension system lol.
Im SERIOUS.
i would like to see a regular PC, but its wheels actually work, and a fan controller is used to adjust the speed and turn it. so it would look 100% stock, but can drive
Put a powerfull enough motor on it, so if someone is beating you, you drive you comp over and knock him out of his car ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
That is allowed right :D
I'm looking to put upgrade to watercooling for the first time and will be running a single loop to just my i7 and motherboard full block, do you guys think it's worthwhile to buy the T3? Will it with the MCP655 perform better than an MCP355 w/ XSPC Res top for a CPU/Mobo only loop?
And I saw some others mentioned installing it in the ATCS 840 and that they had a little trouble because of the tool-less 5.25" bay mounts? Do you just have to totally remove the retention mounts and just use screws?
Well, do you think there is a chance you will decide to GPUs on water? Skinnee is getting really close to posting the test results it sounds like, I would give it another day or so for those numbers to come out, and then make your decision :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by burningrave101
At the moment I'm just running a 4870 and selling my 4870x2 so I won't be watercooling any GPU's for a while but I may when I upgrade to a next gen part down the road. Right now I'm mostly just in water because if I keep this i7 setup I'm gonna be ready to get away from this TRUE since it's not cutting the mustard at 4Ghz+.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Any word on the availability of this?
Jabtech has them: http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-T...C-pr-4497.html
Can order direct from Primochill: http://www.primochill.com/reservoirs/5-1-4-bay.html
Those are the main 2 I know of atm.
I'm curious to heard a pump with this res/top, because there are no noise dampening ...
PS : Sorry for my realy realy bad English :(
New rule. Your mod can't be taller then you are. Or weigh more :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/9...eandmodder.jpg
Well, although the performance on 2 loops is amazing, the single loop performance doesn't exactly suck lol. Its middle of the pack for pump tops. As another poster pointed out, its also good to have that second loop ability if your going to add other blocks down the road. Call it future proofing.Quote:
Originally Posted by burningrave101
As for your case, several guys have posted pics of their T3's mounted using the rails.
Also FrozenCPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
We all speak case modding and water cooling so no worries.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moitrux
There is actually quite a bit of MASS to the T3. It is not a lightweight part. There are also 8 rubber mounting washers included that isolate vibration.
Short answer. Once all the air is properly bled off (as with any pump) the T3 is very quiet. Certainly quieter then 2 DDC's would be (and in some cases the T3 will beat TWO DDC's on performance as well).
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/1...6973189592.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Any word on if someone is going to put the T3 head to head with the XSPC dual bay res for the dual DDCs? I thought question was put forth earlier and Skinnee said he's not going to have a chance to do that one for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I was wondering if anyone else was planning on it, would be interesting to see the results. :yepp:
darth is that you but shaved?
Performance is my main concern more than the possibility of upgrading to a dual loop later on. I just wanted to know if anyone has tested to see how a single loop with just like a CPU block would perform using it vs using a DDC+ and XSPC Res top. The main thing I'm after is just getting the best temps I can out of an i7.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Also, how are temps with the D5 pump mounted up in the 5.25" bay? Does it get hot without a fan or anything blowing on it?
Shirt is a little looser on the belly and tighter on the shoulders :) felt like giving up modding after that eventQuote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
Skinnee I think is suppose to have those types of tests done and posted here any time now.Quote:
Originally Posted by burningrave101
Thats just not fair! :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
no mustaches either
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/9...eandmodder.jpg
Damn DB, congrats on the self Mod. Keep up the great work.
Trimming the stash does not count for weight reduction. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Honestly though, keep up all the awesome work. ;) :up:. . . .and stay away from the Jager! :p:
Looks like 2 different people :D Grats on the weight loss man!Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
finally...
skinnee labs - PrimoChill Typhoon III
:party: :D
Keeping in mind I designed the T3 (in the interests of full disclosure) I can give a pretty good idea of the results of a head to head.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
PQ curves will look great for the DDC dualie. In real world usage, the much more restrictive CPU blocks will like the higher pressure the DDC's bring to the table. GPU's, rads, and lower restriction cpu blocks will like the better flow rates of the T3. To my mind, even if you have a restrictive CPU, your GPU's and rad/s are going to want the better flow...How do you loop two DDC's so that they can leverage their pressure edge? It will depend on your loops, the T3 will win some (more in my mind =) and the Dual DDC will win others. I think the fact that T3 does it with one LESS pump, and the fact that it is the quieter and the one generally considered more reliable makes it the much more elegant solution.
Again, just my biased opinion :)
Yeah, I have watched DB shaving off the weight with such dedication that I ALMOST feel like loosing some weight myself. I am not ashamed to say DB, VERY proud of you for sticking with it man.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Ah well, looks like Skinnee didn't make it tonight for the review :(
To make up for it, here is a little video of the results of glue trial 4.
And yes, I added a top AND bottom port for grins. I would move them over closer to the sides on the next one. Since Bei Fei was obviously WAY unhappy and has NO problem expressing himself about things that piss him off, this particular unit is on its way to him.
geno.boxgods.com/MVI_0358.divx
I spoke with Brian about making a version with the top port available on ModdersMart and/or the PrimoChill store available for a slight premium for those users with very large or heavy cases. He said he wouuld consider it.
WOOOOT, OH HOT DAM!!!. Looks like we cross posted AHAHAHAHA.
Crossing ma fingers for the big read. Wait 70 seconds? NOOOOOOO
13 minutes late...you're gonna stick me on 13 minutes.?
first the short and skinnee joke now 13 minutes, jeez.
:rofl:
Thanks for the review skinnee, good read. Any plans to do testing of dual loops with a Y coming off the other tops going back into a res with dual inlets as a base of comparison? Just seems like a more realistic comparison and better way to see what advantage the T3 really provides. Comparing dual loops against single loop is kind of like tying one hand behind your back in a boxing match :DQuote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
Did you notice any temp difference using the T3 with dual loops versus the other tops with single loop?
I thought this at work today, and we discussed it earlier in this thread...its not needed, but I will run some just to prove out Vapor's math. But I am moving my lab to a new room this week, earliest I can get to it is maybe this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
I didn't run any thermals, that would've taken weeks longer.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
K, Thanks man very curious about it. Appreciate all the work your doing here!Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
Cheers
Actually...if you're curious still, you should go back and reread some of the posts in this thread...Vapor explained the math. Running those tests will only take more time away from testing other blocks/pump/rads etc, to put a chart to the facts already discussed.
I'm not saying that to be rude, just my tail is getting to big of a backlog...and thats not good if we want to continue to see more reviews from skinnee labs.
Skinnee, thanks for spending SO much time with the T3. No doubt at all that Martin made the right choice for his successor.
Blue Haze; Does that mean I get to add Y's to each of the T3 loops for a little Quad loop love? Obviously the Typhoon III has the flow power to pull it off :D
And just in case you guys missed the video cause the page switched:
http://geno.boxgods.com/MVI_0358.divx
Again, Thanks a lot for the great review Skinnee.
:up:, my pleasure!
[Review] Typhoon III (forum version)
Those are thoughts exaclty. Even if it is slightly better than the T3, it will cost you more than the T3 because of buying a second pump. So taking in account the whole thing. T3 seems to be the better value. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Just curious how you tapped it, just used a drill bit and simple G 1/4" tap?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Thanks,
Or a laser and a tapping arm. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
First cut a hole through the top of the T3 large enough to recess the top of the plug.
I then added a 1/4" thick acrylic circle inside with a 29/64" hole, bonded to the inside of the reservoir (obviously the 2 holes need to be aligned concentrically) then tapped.
Looks like its a hot product.
Primochill site OOS for all 3 models.
Darn it.... most resellers OOS already....
No, I read it all that is why I am curious, Vapor posted his math then Boxgods disagreed with it so I don't think any conclusion has actually been drawn nor can it be until we have a comparison vs another top running two loops. As it stands it seems you would get similiar performance via adding a Y to the outlet of the pump and having each loop dump back into individual ports on the res.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
Nevertheless I don't want to beat the horse here so if you don't have time to do the testing I will drop it. I am sure someone will be curious enough to do it eventually. I don't have a d5 or I would try it. Maybe I will try it with my ddc and see what happens, just have to pickup another flowmeter.
Anyways thanks again mate!
Well it would kind of defeat the purpose :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I disagreed with Vapor's math? Don't think so lol. He actually worked out the formula MUCH more accurately then I could, and I am told he did it from the back end...MUCH stronger math skills then my "weak sauce" maths.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Guess I misunderstood then :shrug: The math is all french to me anyway :doh:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
AH, I was not disagreeing with his math, was this part "EDIT: BoxGods' PEC explanation is the true way to look at it" and I was referring to his original statement being the easiest to UNDERSTAND. He has a way of explaining complex concepts in really easy to understand terms.
His math is actually more accurate then the formula I used.
When he used the Term "Through the pump" that really is an excellent way of explaining how a T3 does dual loops compared to placing a Y before and after a pump. Certainly easier for most to understand then the math formula.
I DO see where it looked like I was not agreeing whith his math the way I wrote my post though.
Well I have to say I really enjoy discussing this with you, it is refreshing to be able to have a civil discussion over the internet with discerning points of view as opposed to the typical flamewars that usually end up taking place. Much respect to you and Primochill as well for that, you guys seem like a really great company.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
When you say "Through the pump" doesn't the pump still have one inlet and one outlet? It's not really possible to have a Y "in the pump" it either has to be before or after. Obviously having a Y both before and after is going to net you nothing because you end with the same restriction you began with. The advantage seems to come in from having the res at the end of the loop and having both the loops then dump back into the res without going through another Y. Thus allowing the res to act as an expansion chamber of sorts giving free flow to each loop individually without the restriction at the end.
Yes and no. If you look at the helix (or spiral involute if you prefer lol) in the T3 it is MUCH deeper then a normal D5 Top. Almost double. Because I could not make it any wider (again the D5's impeller dictates the with of the waters path) I pretty much cheated and made it deeper so that I could DOUBLE that primary outlet and get a lot more water into the PEC. The PEC regulates the pressure as close to the pump head as I could get it so there is not a huge pressure loss.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
The rest Skinnee covers pretty well in his article. basically the portion of the loop that is actually inside your pump is doubled. If you do the Y method on a regular pump top, the entire loop (loops) may be doubled, but the section through the pump is still the single, or same flow as before.
Think of it like this. Obviously there is no Y inside the pump, but the single line that there is in there is the same volume (or close to it) as 2 lines would be. So when the dual loops of the T3 come together and pass through the pump, the volume of that section is still near the volume of 2 lines or loops. In the Y method on a regular top that line is just one lines worth of volume. Thats the restriction Vapor is talking about, not the restriction from the Y fitting itself, but the base leg of that Y "section", or the length of you loop that runs through the pump.
And yeah, I love talking about this stuff too lol.
So you are saying the size of the chamber coming off the pump makes the difference? Because the hanging point for me which we discussed before was that the water will take the least path of resistance. So in a free flowing loop the chamber would aid the flow by allowing more water to be fed through each loop with the pump being the only restriction, with that I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
However once you add restriction to the loop that is now the governing factor of your flow. Therefore as long as the flow coming through the Y was greater than the restriction through each loop you wouldn't even need a chamber because the water will fill each loop until equilibrium is reached.
In otherwords, just throwing numbers out there, if you have a pump able to flow 5gpm and a Y able to flow 4gpm, now run two loops off that y each with a restriction no greater than 2gpm and both loops dump back into a res removing the restriction at the end of the loop, you will have 4gpm flowing "through the pump" with no chamber at all on the outlet (open loop) because the Y is the restriction.
Now introduce a restriction greater than the Y to each loop and say you have two loops each restricted to 1.5gpm so the max you can possibly flow through these loops is 3gpm and you throw them on the pump flowing 5gpm through the Y flowing 4gpm. In this case your pump can flow 5gpm your Y can flow 4gpm so the governing restriction is the dual loops that flow 3gpm combined. Your flow rate is now determined by the restriction of the indivdual loops not by the Y, nor the pump, nor by any chamber in between the individual loops and the pump correct?
In otherwords your pump can still flow the full 5gpm because there is no restriction at the end of each individual loop, it's getting fluid from the res so is capable of starting each pass through the loop fresh with the full 5gpm capablity.
Is there something wrong with this train of thought?
Jab-tech has 4 left. Not sure if he will ship international though, but you can drop John an email and ask him.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
Hey BoxGods Quick question when these products will be avail on the market & where thx ?
http://geno.boxgods.com/FM1opt.jpg
http://geno.boxgods.com/TC4opt.jpg
http://geno.boxgods.com/YC1b.jpg
Your going to have to loop up with the Y's and see for yourself because I cant think of any other way to explain it. The D5 produces XXX amount of power. To move the same volume of water through a smaller pipe at the same speed requires more power. If more power isn't available, go with a bigger pipe...the "pipe through the T3 is B I G G E R lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
When they say the Y is the restriction, they mean the section of the Y's through the pump itself.
Yes!Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
So glad I didn't procrastinate like I usually do then :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
Seems BoxGods needs to go crack the whip over at Primochill ;)
http://www.ncixus.com/products/index...4&promoid=1190
They have them in stock for 55 USD + Shipping. Only 5 left though so hurry before they are gone.
How do you make "the pipe through the T3 B I G G E R". As you and everyone should agree water cannot be compressed therefore the "pipe through the T3" will always remain the same would it not without physically altering the actual pump itself?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Did you notice he only uses the pump motor and impeller head? That means he designed the pipe?Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
LOL, Well yes I understand that but then the review is more about which "pipe" aka pump top is better in which case brings us back to square one in order to have a fair comparison we need to have each "pipe" aka pump top compared under the same circumstances. It's no longer about the res or the dual loops at all it is now only the actual top design that can offer any improvement. Which was essentially what i've been trying to say all along!Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Edit: Anyways DB your reply kind of got me thinking both sides of the discussion so I can see more clearly now why Boxgod's and skinnee only want to test the T3 against single loops, simply because it all boils down to top vs top it has nothing to do with the actual res so introducing another competitiors res into the comparison adds more variables however I would think under those circumstances to eliminate the competitor res in order to level the playing field you would need to test top vs top with single loops only I think whichever top comes out on top with single loops will also come out on top with dual loops fed from a Y and back into a res with multiple ports.
Anyways whoever woulda thunk a little bit of water could be this confusing? LOL
Why is this so difficult to understand? The T3 design (nearly) doubles the pump intake size(over double in terms of flow capability) and then uses two 1/2" outlets (more than double in flow capability) giving you 2 loops running at normal D5 capacity. The main reason I think this is so difficult for many to understand is that they are used to thinking the D5 is an inferior pump or something. The D5 just never had a top built for it that was truly optimized for it's design.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
the first pump like that (was it the D4?) was all about pressure. they redesigned it to go for more flow, but also by a more effective design more pressure is also possible with more flow. or in this case, i think the T3 drops the pressure a little, but the flow was massively improved.
I DID physically alter the actual pump head itself. That is what I have been telling you ALL along lol. Look at how DEEP the helix is on the T3. It is almost TWICE as deep as the ones on other D5 pumps. You can't alter the width or the diameter of it because those are matched to the impeller. You CAN make them deeper though. Then I made the primary outlet almost TWICE the size. Then I radically changed the inlet so that it can feed the water in at a MUCH more efficient angle because you can't alter the inlets diameter (matched to the impeller again) to feed the now almost double sized water path.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
Skinne does not want to do the Y test because he very likely feels like it is a waste of time, and because as a reviewer it is not really fair to alter the other pumps to do what T3 does. Its like doing a head to head car review where one car has a stronger engine so you say well, if the looser had that better engine, it would be bad ass too. Yes, if those other pumps had the things T3 does, they would be better. They don't though lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
The part your missing is that just adding the Y's to an existing design will NOT alter the internal passage volume (make it bigger). That is what we have been trying to tell you (and others) with the explanations and what Vapor shows with the math. I really think you just need to loop one up and see for yourself. You may still not understand WHY it doesn't work, but at least you will know for sure it doesn't.
Could not have said it better myself. It comes down to efficiency through the pump, and no bypass scheme will beat that.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellcamino
Yes, I had issues in early prototypes because increasing the flow is not to hard to do, but increasing the flow in a way that doesn't kill all the pressure, and that lets the 2 loops work with different flow rates (within reason) IS harder to do. I set the goal of getting the 2 loops to within 10% of each other at the outlets also (and got much closer eventually). If you alter the size of the PEC by say 5% in either direction (bigger or smaller) the performance falls off dramatically.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
Blue Haze,
I just wanted to make SURE that you don't think I am coming across as condescending as I don't mean to at all. It is NOT that your being thick, it is that it is harder to unlearn old things then it is to learn new things. I suck at explaining too which doesn't help. Vapor grasped the concept in like 5 minutes, and had the math formula done in about a day (and he did it from the back end or reverse engineered it which boggles my mind.). I worked on it for 6 MONTHS and still did not have it entirely correct. He did it in ONE DAY!
darn couldnt justify paying 15 dollars to ship to usa will wait for frozencpu.com to have it in stock since I have a saved basket in there with 300 dollars worth of stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by Bei Fei
The one I ordered from JabTech arrived today. It's got the uber-triple-bond (doesn't matter in my case since it's not visible). It would have been nice to see a sheet of paper with some basic instructions. It took me a moment to figure out which ports to use as the inlet and outlet, without being able to see that image posted earlier as a guide.
I didn't care for the look of the clear ghost fittings, so I ended up using Swiftech chrome plugs for the two currently unused ports, plus Bitspower compression fittings + Swiftech o-rings. So far so good, but still testing.
thanks for the tip on the orings!Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosTrax
Yea, I'm hoping the black ones are going to look sweet. Mine should arrive on Monday coming directly from Primo. I can't wait. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosTrax
The clear ones paint the best though usually. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by HoosTrax
Reposting from the review thread caus I am LAZY!
I just wanted to also say that I am going to be posting less from here on out as there are now more forums with T3 threads then I could ever hope to keep up with. It is after 3AM and here I am posting. The whole forum thing is hard for (some ) people from my generation, as in "old dude" :) and it's stressing me out lol.
That reminds me. A Year ago I would not have stepped into the forums here at XS on a dare as this place was just BRUTAL. I don't know what happened but now I like coming here a lot as the atmosphere has shifted from destruction to construction. The Admins or whoever have really turned it around and I would encourage any other product designers or company reps to give XS another try--not a walk in the park by any stretch )and really it shouldnt be) but you will get a fair shake. Here we are at almost page TWENTY of this thread and all my limbs are still attached (and I am only having the nightmares 2-3 nights a week now =)
I have a mod to finish for nVida to display at QuakeCon and then the ION modding contest mod and I am WAY behind. I will check back every few days to see who is winning the latest argument =) and to see if anyone is having the type of problem I can help with. (missing a plug, weird glue, a scratch or w/e).
On the subject of glue. I am sending the guy that was the MOST pissed about the bonding band -- Bei Fei-- test sample #4 of the new clear adhesive to beat on and see if we did better as he obviously has NO problem speaking his mind lol. Sample #5 is going to UTnorris so he can test out the optional Top/bottom port in his heavy weight UFO. PrimoChill is likely going to offer a version of the T3 with these extra port/s at their site only and for a slight premium to cover the extra plugs and labor building them. I will post more details as they become available. It would be great if you guys mention it anytime people post about needing the top ports for an over sized rig or w/e.
Glue test samples 1-3 are in accelerated chemical, UV, and vibration testing and I will know by mid week how they fared. I have already worked out using the new adhesive in post production so if it passes testing it will be in place right away. Possible in time for the next production batch which hits bonding next Friday. You will know as soon as I do.
Almost forgot. For the guys asking about the machined aluminum face plates, yes those will be sold as an add on that can easily be installed by those who already have T3's.
Any serious issues just email me.
Excuse me for getting off topic, but I quote from Skinnee's review;
"I have seen the new Radiator line (code named RainMaker) he is working on and I will be stunned if these radiators don't blow your socks off even more than the Typhoon III"
Any more details? I am very much interested in this new radiator that Skinnee speaks of...
Releasing information on T3 too soon caused a few problems. A mistake I will not make again =)Quote:
Originally Posted by India48
It may be out in 12 weeks or less, and everyone on the design and production team is working hard to get it out by then, but just to be safe I am going to say by the end of the year. Better that everyone is happy because it arrived early then flaming me for it being late.
Question for the guys wanting information on the machined aluminum faces for the T3.
Would renders (created from the actual solid works files the face plates are being machined from) help your planning?
It would help my planning as much as seeing how awesome they will look :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
either way im buying one due to the fact there is a different faceplate....im shallow that way sorry as long as you have black im down.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
The best builds are the builds with the best planning.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper2004
Not shallow. Mobo color is in my top five for board specifications :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JOCKTHEGLIDE
Rocky aka EvilVision aka Evil98 says he can get started on the renders in the AM so they will likely be done in time to post Sat night.
Are u referring to the T3 bout the "12weeks or less..........................being late" that part?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Think he was referring to that rad India48 was asking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
I would love to see some renders of them. :up: Seeing that I'm switching to silver/distilled, it would be nice to have something on the front of it to break up the boring clear water :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Rocky says the renders are still baking, will be done in the morning. I will post them then.
I think Evil's renders have been banned here. . .something about ppl going blind prematurely. :shrug: :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Anyone else's look all cracked up like this? It doesnt leak but doesnt look right. I also didnt over tighten the pump but when I look at it 20 mins later i found that cracked also.
I wish there was a better to bleed it other that having to sit my case on its back >.< Its to big and doesn't like it lol.
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/a...stkrh/res1.jpg
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/a...stkrh/res2.jpg
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/a...stkrh/res3.jpg
Pics 2 and 3 look like someone took isopropyl alcohol to it. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by kaytaro
Looks like the die wasn't cooled evenly after injection molding and then the part was not properly annealed afterwards. Polycarb is ornery like that.
The front is Acrylic for the extra clarity and the pump mounting bracket is acrylic cut on the laser as well. And yes that DOES look like isopropyl alcohol. I remember the first time I whipped off acrylic with alcohol to prep for paint and heard that cracking ice sound lol. (laughing at my reaction at the time, not your dilemma) There is no way a part cracked that badly gets past QC either obviously. Also a version with top ports available for sale at ModdersMart and Direct from the PrimoChill site.
My advice is to replace it, even if it isn't leaking because SOMETHING went after it--either something it was cleaned with, or the fluid your using.
kaytaro did you wipe down your reservoir with anything that might have alcohol in it? what did you fill it with?
Woot for EvilVision! Thanks for the renders Rocky.
The First image is the brushed black anodized. Second is the polished aluminum. Last is the silver (clear) anodized shown from the back so you can see how the plate fits down into the basins on the T3. No more flat 2D looking face plates, and the frame makes the bottoms of the basins look like windows or sight glass. These will be machined from solid 1/2" thick aluminum.
http://geno.boxgods.com/black_anno.jpg
http://geno.boxgods.com/polished.jpg
http://geno.boxgods.com/silver.jpg
The thickness is about 1/16" and they will mount with acrylic double backed tape around the perimeter.
Nice faceplates!!!!
Another question for you, BoxGods (I know you're trying to get other work done - sorry ;) ):
You mentioned it's easier to paint the T3 without the face plates. Any hints on how best to paint it? I may not paint it - and just wait or the faceplates, but just curious at this point.
This was in the review thread for those that didn't see:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
They are pretty easy to paint. If your not in a huge hurry I can send you some pre cut gerber paint masks (my plotter is out for repair). These will also be available in a cheap (like $5) painting kit for the T3. I can also post the masks for anyone wanting to print them and then cut them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Here is my paint procedure:
Install the T3 in your case and check the clearance between the face edges and your case. If the fit is fairly close then use some 320 grit wet/dry sand paper on a sanding block and sand the the edges back a little. The goal si to remove just enough so that the T3 still fits into your case with the extra thickness of the paint.
I then put the masks down in the bottom of the three basins so that after you paint and they are removed you still have windows into the reservoir. I use blue painters tape around the back side where the frame contacts the body of the main reservoir. This is fast and easy to apply as you do not need to be too careful, you just need to keep from painting the body (though you can paint it if you want too I guess).
A quick wash in hot soapy water to get off finger prints and such and dried with a lint free cloth (aka micro fiber rag). I do not like tack cloths for painting, but some swear by them--your choice
I then tape newspaper onto that first band of blur painters tape to protect against over spray. I leave this row of news paper about 6" longer then the end of the T3 so I can slide my hand in to hold it while I am painting so I don't paint my hand.
I also am a big believer in primer, but again some don't bother with it. Your choice. If your just painting the T3 then it is not really a necessity, but if your painting your case also I WOULD recommend using a primer on both the T3 and the case so that the hue of your paint matches, (unless your case happens to be clear too of course ;)
For brighter colors like white, bright red, silver, yellow etc. use a white primer. For darker colors, Black, charcoal, dark blue, maroon etc use a gray or black primer. For plastics I like the painters touch type made for plastics like this:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(jf...px?SKU=1170257
Apply one or two thin coats of primer...in fact, rather then rewriting all the painting how to stuff, for those needing detailed instructions I wrote a tutorial a while back that you can find here. If you ARE painting your whole case, you might as well read this one too.
It took me longer to write this post then it would for me to paint a T3 lol. My point being the instructions make it sound harder then it is.
Hope that helps.
If there is any interest, I can always do a painting tutorial specifically for the T3.
Also, DB is getting in touch with Smooth about them offering some pre painted T3's. The T3 is particularly suited to their magic skills because it has DEPTH. Imagine the frame painted silver with rivets like an airplane canopy for example. I will let you know if that pans out.
Thanks, Geno ... wasn't trying to wear out your poor fingers :)
I like the clear in my current Torture Rack build, just thinking about the next build. I'll most likely go with the faceplate (and another T3, of course). I highly recommend folks interested in painting read the links you provided - I've found them very helpful, and am actually getting up the nerve to try painting a whole case (scarrrry!!!!).
Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
And never too busy for you. Meaning all you guys. No really. :)
It IS a little scary but one thing people do not seem to know is that just about ANY mistake you make can be sanded off and fixed. The single most important elements in a paint jop are sand paper and patience. Good prep is KING.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
And there is no other mod element that feels as rewarding either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
I only used distilled water bottled from the store. I didnt clean it with anything. Every item in the loop was brand new gtx 480 rad, dd 285 gtx blocks, the res, swiftech GTZ, Koolance flow meter, and a 120 gtx rad, with PrimoFlex Pro tubing. It still running ok no leaks, but I'm kinda scared they might crack through.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Is there anything that could have been in those from the factory that could have been left over and I should have cleaned out, if so the I guess its my bad, but other than that its only seen pure water.
Can you please link it for me? I look and can not seem to locate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
You should have it replaced. Call Primochill on Monday or e-mail them. They should get you taken care of.
No, They are pressure tested with plain tap water.Quote:
Originally Posted by kaytaro
I just got off the phone with Brian from Primo and he said just to start a ticket at PrimoChill and he will square you away.
Wow, thank you so much! i will do that asap!Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
You think those cracks look bad, apparently I didn't take a well enough look at the MSDS sheet on the VFD fluid that I use at work and use in my system. My Typhoon III has horrendous cracking and leaking problems, all but 3 of my Ghost Compression fittings have sheared off at the base of the threads. I figured I'd slam a dab or 10 of superglue where the backplate mates with the pump to seal up where I was leaking through the o-ring after a week of use. Yeah well I'm currently waiting for my machine to bleed out and looking for another D5 and Typhoon so I can throw in some regular distilled and get back up and running. :( Oh and to make it even nicer my HK3 block is all super pitted from either pumping some high speed air bubbles or from my liquid as well. Well time to nab another one of those.
Does anyone know where I can find another one of these TyphoonIII's in stock so I can get back online?
Distilled Water FTW :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
Sorry, had to do it. I have been talking with BoxGods because I got those same cracks, though not as bad on mine. I am working on an RMA. It seems another week or 2 and Primochill should be back in stock. :up:
Oh yeah its bad, I might be able to fix the leaking from the backing for another week but at the rate its going I might not have a res by the time they are back in stock. Just my luck too, my computer res falls apart, my beater car threw a rod through the block, and my race car needs a headgasket. Seriously its a good thing I haven't been laid off yet otherwise I'd be eating a pistol by now. [\rant]
:( That sucks. I'm bleeding mine right now. It did suck installing, but it mad up for that with filling it. That thing is a breeze to fill. Bleeding is a none event too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
With the leaks from my Banana Power 45 rotarys and the ones that have been springing up since I put this all together AND Rma'ing one of my 4890's I must have drained and filled my system over 20 times and I will say, its great to just slap a barb fitting on the side of it with a tube and plug for easy fill/drain. At first I thought about the fact that I drained most of the air out of my system and did not have any type of "expansion tank" in the system, can anyone comment on that? Everything I see is - drain all the air out, but don't you want some in the top of the res to act as an expansion tank so you don't have a water grenade on your hands?
What was it in the coolant you used that did that? Ethylene glycol?
I'll have to find my MSDS for my fluid again I have it laying around here somewhere. I don't doubt that its got some glycol in it as we can use that same fluid in out outdoor machines that are outside year round and exposed to freezing temps. *shrugs* live and learn right?
Yea, I think it does. you did the void the warrenty on it. :( Would be a good excuse to grab some silver and distilled for next go around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
I don't wanna sound all Poly Anna, but things are NEVER that bad. Tomorrow will be a better day man.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
No, you want to get as much air out as you can. A D5 at BEST could generate 5 PSI and every T3 is pressure tested to 4 x that (20 psi) for 5 minutes. Bubbles/air will make your pump louder and rob some performance so bleed off as much as you can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
Don't feel bad about using the wrong fluid. I once spent three days building a curved for heat bending and building the rotating hatch for for a mod and to prep for paint I wiped it down with denatured alcohol--the most benign of things you would think...I sat there sorta stunned for almost an hour and watched it crack into a thousand pieces. Sounded like an ice tray lol.
http://www.boxgods.com/global/images...les/A94-13.jpg
http://www.boxgods.com/global/images/articles/A94-6.jpg
a LOT of guys have learned that lesson the hard way.