you must of had a major destruction of the file system to lose your boot command.
are you using NTFS or FAT32?
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you must of had a major destruction of the file system to lose your boot command.
are you using NTFS or FAT32?
Hi Ace-a-Rue,
Probally sounds daft but did you do the volt mod? to reduce v-droop? Just wondering in terms of if everything was okay when you had the QX9650 installed, were voltages still okay?
Of course this is irellevant if you didnt do it, has anyone else tried the Yorkfield CPU on the Abit IP35 Pro? just wondering how well it handles Yorkfield.
NTFS... i believe - after I get my new job a hardware raid card is what I will get along with 4 HDDs
how good is this mobo's 4 phase power vs asus p5k-e 8?
futureproof i mean....
So what version of the BIOS are you guys using?
Ace-a-Rue
My prolems:
#1
"i have strange problem with bios16beta04 flashing. All has made under the instruction (from floppy), but I have "Invalid Windows License" message. WTF?"
#2
"At overclocking Q6600: if voltage more than 1.5v, starting FPU-test (s&m1.9.1 for example) get pc shut down. And the overheat is not present, falling of psu voltages too. There is an opinion, that in it are guilty only four phased PWM. On other mobos (asus,giga) with six-eight phases such problem is not present.
Somebody faced such problem? I am right? Did somebody pass the fpu-test on vcpu >=1.5v ?"
i am using the intel raid, ATM (testing) and i am running currently my Q6600@3960 mhz...never had a failure with the stripe...are you overclocking?..if so, where do you have the ICHIO 1.5 and MCH set?...those two need to be increased if you are overclocking, and possibly if you are not...not all boards are equal.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater
i put my 9650 on the pro board...worked well with the 16.b04 beta bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelly
i did not do the vdroop mod since i am not very good with the soldering skills;)
i found the bios vcore and a few other voltages were way off from what Uguru showed in the overclocking guru....i strictly used Uguru to set my voltages especially vcore...actual vcore (confirmed by DMM) was spot on with the set overclocking Uguru vcore....there was absolutely no vdroop for idle conditions...i only got vdroop when i loaded the cores up with wPrime...it was about 0.05 vdroop under load...far better than my 65nm processor which had 0.04 idle vdroop and then another 0.05v load vdroop, total of 0.09v.
that all said, i did send back my 9650 thinking it had a defective DTS on one or two cores...one core was stuck on 51C at idle regrdless what mhz was set....i should have a new cpu in about a week....it might be different in characteristics than the first;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
it will run the Penryn if that is what you mean by future proof...it ran my 9650 very well.
can't explain the first problem...you need to write more details about the flashing method that you are using...are you writing out the whole command line or are you using Abit's flashing package which is the awdflash.exe, abitfae.bat and runme.bat?Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
as to problem#2, what cooling method are you using...4200 mhz is far to high for air so it must be water...STILL...your vcore needs to be higher, like 1.55 (Actual)...now...if that 1.5v is bios set vcore, then, that is your problem; way to low since this board does have vdroop in idle conditions for 65nm cpu's and the vdroop becomes larger under load.
both, and the result is same. I even changed the boot floppy files from XP to another from drdflash.exe. But it change nothing.Quote:
whole command line or are you using Abit's flashing package
4ghz/1.5-1.55 (Frosty air from window =-20°) temp on pwm is <30° by uGuru, NB is nearby 10°, cpu is <50° on load. But when I start the FPUtest then 1sec & shut down.Quote:
4200 mhz is far to high for air so it must be water...STILL...your vcore needs to be higher, like 1.55 (Actual)
I know two person with the same problems, even with 600-700W PSU.
are you flashing in windows?
give me a link for that cooler....thanks
no.Quote:
are you flashing in windows?
The Far North. And the super-coolers is not necessary for you ;)Quote:
give me a link for that cooler....thanks
did you flash this way in DOS?...this requires to have a boot disk and then a 2nd disk with the bios file and awdflash.exe on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
if you do it with an USB flash drive then it is a lot easier....have you read over my guide?
A:AWDFLASH.EXE(space)M629B_16.B04(space)/e /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc /cks (add one space between each switch and the next forward slash)
ABITFAE.BAT, awdflash.exe, COMMAND.COM, IBMBIO.COM, IBMDOS.COM, RUNME.BAT and the bios are on 1 diskette.Quote:
did you flash this way in DOS?...this requires to have a boot disk and then a 2nd disk with the bios file and awdflash.exe on it.
Boot from floppy -> type RUNME.BAT -> agree with all cautions from abit -> enter the new bios name (it already there)-> enter -> 1-2 min of diskette readings -> "do not turn off the power..." -> "invalid windows license" -> A:/
well...you shouldn't have to enter anything other than typing runme.bat...did you edit the runme.bat and abitfae.bat before hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
just type out the whole command line like i posted above...it should work...if not, the board has a defective bios.
i know. I did not write anything more.Quote:
you shouldn't have to enter anything other than typing runme.bat
Tried. The same result. But non-beta bios flashing is OK.Quote:
just type out the whole command line like i posted above...it should work...if not, the board has a defective bios.
http://forum.uabit.com/showthread.php?t=132154 - the same problem sa mine.
Hi all
First of all good work on this thread. I recently bought an IP35 Pro after having a nightmare with an Asus P5K Premium. I must say i'm Very impressed with this mainboard.
However I'm havin issues with RAM. My setup is as follows:
Mainboard - Abit IP35 Pro
CPU - Quad Core Q6700 (2.66 Ghz)
Cooling - Tuniq Tower 120
RAM - 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS2-6400C4 Twinx
Graphics - ATI Radeon HD 3850 512MB
PSU - Corsair HX 520W
Hard Disks - 2 x 500GB WD SATA2 Drives
3 x 250 GB Seagate SATA 2 Drives
-When I use 2 Sticks of RAM. The system boots up fine and works ok.
-When I use 4 Sticks of RAM.The system does not post. I get a C1 Error Code
-When I use 1 Stick in each dimm slot I again get the C1 Error Code
I have tested the RAM by using one stick at a time it does not appear to be faulty. The system boots up fine.
I tried increasing the RAM voltage in the BIOS which did not resolve the issue for all 4 sticks.
I have recently sent the RAM back for a replacement. I'm interested in using 4GB RAM.
I presume 2x2GB is better than 1x4GB. Problem is I'm not sure which RAM to buy. I have my eye on these sticks -
G.Skill 4GB DDR2 PK PC2-6400C4 (2x2GB) (F2-6400CL4D-4GBPK)
In your experiences would this RAM be ok to use or can you recommend somethinge better? Am I better off using 2GB or 4GB? (I know with 4GB I will need a 64bit OS)
I'm interested in OCing to at leasst 3.4-3.6Ghz on Air.
I'd appreciate any suggestions or help you have to offer.
Regards
Nimbu
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
but that guy flashed from windows!...i do not recommend that at ALL!...seen to many flashes go bad from other posters.
best bet is to boot into DOS and then run the command line manually...read my guide in my sig for further explanation.
if it does not work flashing manually in DOS environment then i would say your board has a defective bios chip.
Yep, Abit boards have never been too nice about flashing in Windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Ace-a-Rue
I'll try to flash other beta. I hope it will be OK.
Whether corrections in betas are known? Or it is the classified information?
Has just flashed B03. All OK. Did by the same method as B04.
good man!...congrats!:up:
it can all be done on 1 floppy - you just get rid of the junk files that MS sticks on a boot floppy if you format from XP etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I disagree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zytek_Fan
Yes I am Overclocking my E6850 is good at (and was at) 4GHz most of the voltages on the config I was running were maxed /about maxed out ... no board mods, ichio- 1.8 and mch is 1.56 and I have good cooling on it... thinkin when I get the E8500 I'll just get a Mars board and hardware raid card/new HDDs but that is where I see myself in a month or two. gonna get a quad core and see how it improves my slide scanning times :shrug: :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Why 16B03 is such bad? I could not get 4GHz even on 1.5v, though took it on 1.45v earlier on 14bios. Did 16B04 the same as B03?
16.b03 was memory improvement...16.b04 was updated to allow Penryn cpu's to be ID properly...i tried both and i experienced improvement in memory speeds.
it is the nature of the beast when overclocking...dynamics are changing all the time...what you thought is a good working voltage can change after a couple of power-on's.
Hi guys,
Would love your help here. My problem started happening (but I can't tell if it's related) after I installed a SCSI drive as my OS drive.
I have 2 DVD burners that are connected with an ide to sata converter. Directly after the SCSI install, one of the dvd roms caused a hang at the main boot screen. It would eventually proceed after 5 minutes to the bios or boot into vista, but neither the bios or windows recognised it anymore.
I could live with this as I don't use the drive's that much to worry about losing one of them. Now about 5 days after, the exact same thing has happened to the other dvd drive!! If both are unplugged from the board, things are great.
Keep in mind while I'm trying to fix this that if I have one of the dvdroms hooked up, the 5 minute wait to get to bios is an excruciating (each change even in the bios means 5 minutes at this point!!!)
Sorry to get off topic from overclocking and such, but this is where all the smart people are with the same mobo as me lol
Cheers, JJ
which intel port do you have the rom's hooked to?
suggest you go back to IDE to see if they work that way.
[QUOTE=
it is the nature of the beast when overclocking...dynamics are changing all the time...what you thought is a good working voltage can change after a couple of power-on's.[/QUOTE]
Yikes. How universally true is this? I was hoping to reach a solid steady state and forget about it for the next 8 months, until the Qxxxx's are down around $100 :)
ORTHOS question.
I ran Orthos Blend for 7h26m, at which point it had a fatal error. Where do I go to understand what it means and how to respond in order to get 12 hours of stability?
Hey Ace,
Thanks for the reply. I should have been more specific with the question and let you know that the ide's are already in use by two of my hard drives. 5 of the 6 sata ports are in use as well (2 of them being the dvdroms). As for which ones, I don't know and will have to rip apart all my nice cabling to decipher one red sata cable from another. How important is it for certain hdd's and rom's to be on certain intel ports?
One last thing, they are showing up under hardware properties as IY9045B SCSI cd rom devices(non responsive and cause the boot hang). They are not showing up under the adaptec SCSI bios (as they should not).
JJ
what i was thinking that the ide to sata converters are malfunctioning...so...you need to go back to IDE (temporarily) to confirm the operation of the untis.
shaking my head here!;)...forget 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 hours of orthos...be happy you got an hour...you are wasting electricity to prove WHAT!..that you are orthos stable!....you don't need to authenticate with orthos to have a stable system.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsnow
Agree !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
by the way Ace-a-Rue, do u think i should flash bios 16beta ? im now at bios 14 that comes with the board...
beta bios will help in OC ?:shocked:
Thanks Ace, I'll bet your right and you get what you pay for. I got those converters for $1US each from ebay....Now if my ip35 just had one more ide hook up, 2 more PCIEX16 and 2 more regular pci slots I'd be all set lol.
Stability is in the eye of the beholder right ace? If you pass the wPRIME 32M test every day apps will be stable.....Ace has shown me that orthos and all that is a waste of time, to further test for stability i would do the most demanding task that you would actually use your computer for (i.e. games,encoding, etc.) I was prime95 stable for a few hours but then bioshock crashed my comp within 30 minutes lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsnow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
At least there are some brave ones who don't have probs with flashing through windows. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Zytek_Fan
I've flashed from 10 -> 11 -> 14 -> 14 b04 and back to 14 without a single prob.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cscheat
how high of an overclock are you doing now?
if everything is running normal, i would say stay where you are at...BUT...if you are adventurous, then, go for the GOLD!;)
i'd bet you have a four leaf clover in your pocket.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by JoeBar
Any word on when Beta 16.B04 will become an 'official' release?
i presume as soon as the other lesser models for Penryn can be examined for compatibility.
anyone here owned an IP35 Pro and one of the DFI LT/UT P35 boards? Trying to make a decision here for simple setup and solid performance for 400-450FSB tops. Running 400X9 right now...
I hope it never will be since I have no superfluous money for the XP license. :)Quote:
Beta 16.B04 will become an 'official' release?
Budwise
For 3,6 C2D - Snake.
i have both!...buy the IP35 Pro...far better board with literally hassle free operation...the DFI bios is not mature and very buggy with penryn and vista; not the case with the Pro 16.b03 or 16.b04 bioses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Budwise
it works about the same with my Q6600 as it did on the Pro board, even with vdroop as large as the IP35 has....the only reason to upgrade if you want 2 full 16x PCIe slots and one 16x slot that works at 4x.
I have had the DFI P35 series (several) and simply the Abit allows for a better OC for the same components and cooling, even the QX9650 works well on the Abit :up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Budwise
well, its hard to argue with folks who have experience several of both and still go with the Abit. Just canceled my DFI order and ordered the IP35 Pro. Only $149 after the MIR is a great deal as well.
once you confirm the board is working, do my heatpipe mod.
Currently using 16.B03 with Q6600 G0, should I update to B04?
you should be good unless you want more memory compatibility and penryn acceptance.
I have problems with stability at vcore above 1.5v, but i have Q6600. On C2D this problem should not be since consumes much less energy. But if the upgrade to quad is planned, I would look aside DFI with its 8-phases.Quote:
Just canceled my DFI order and ordered the IP35 Pro
When they fix the bugs i hope ..Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
CPU Temps are like are way out in relation to core temps. like 15 degrees higher means uGuru can throw a wobble.
I mean my cores are at 36/37/39/41 yet CPU is 55 at idle ...
I've also noticed the board doesnt always power down when the memory straps get changed and needs a power down to use the new settings.
also i'm not sure these memory optimisations have helped me with my 4 x 1GB crucial 10ths .. stuck on 5-5-5-12 @ 1000 @ 1.9v no matter what i do i cant get 4-4-4-12 or even cas4 anything ... perhaps its just these are at limit.
bs0d.
With bios 16 beta 04 you could lower that 4-4-4-12 to at least 4-4-4-9 if not 4-4-4-4
DFI with 8 phases will give the same results as the Pro board, clock for clock...the only difference is the DFI board has literally no vdroop...i set 1.53 in the bios and it overvolts to 1.55 in windows, and, it does have a tiny drop about 0.015v under load...it's a nice board but the Pro is "better" with a mature bios and way less hassle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
the only reason to go DFI or an X38 board is for dual 16x pcie slots working at 16x...it's not going to give any better performance than what the pro can give you overall.
temps are a problem for every P35 and X38 board...abit is NOT the sole mobo maker with this problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amigan
which bios are you using?
I say not about clocks but about stability. How I tell earlier, if I(not only) set vcore more than 1.5 at any freq - fpu test shut down the PC.
if it shuts down then the cpu is saying, i am to "HOT"!...could be a false signal but the cpu has to initiate the signal to the board.
NOW...if you have it a stock speed and 1.5v or above then something is wrong with the board or it could be the cpu when doing the FPU bench.
currently on 16.B04 .... pretty sure the temps were much lower on 16.B03Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
plus i also went from an x3210 (B3) to a q6600 (G0) recently so will have to flash back to be sure.
i can certainly remember the (B3) not reaching these temps and that thing put out alot of heat.
when i get a chance i'll flash to 14 & 16.B03 to compare the temps.
bs0d.
I had the same temperature issue with 16.B04 vs. 16.B03. Q6600 cooled by a Thermalright Ultima-90 at stock speeds and voltages (everything at auto) showed ~50-55C at idle. I checked the heatsink, reapplied thermal grease, and the temperatures didn't change. Flashed to 16.B03, and idle temps were ~30-33C. I left 16.B03 on so I could monitor temperatures more accurately (hopefully) while overclocking and stressing the CPU.
Use coretemp this is accurate do not trust uguru except when it reports same
as coretemp.
the Q6600 is going to put more heat than the 3210...are you using coretemp for temp readings?Quote:
Originally Posted by Amigan
your ultima 90 is not hacking it...you really need a TRUE and then lap the surface to get the optimum idle and load temp...what thermal grease are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by PossumK
how hard is it to undo the bolt mod once you've done it. With the watercooling and all it would be a massive pain in the butt to install it all to verify its working, then pull the board back out to do the mod to then install it again. If i do the mod before i ever install the board is it possible to put it back should i have to send back a faulty board?
Does anyone know if the 45nm Quad-core Xeon are supported?
just keep the the TIM for the NB and PWM and the push pins with the springs...you can then return it to its original state....an alternative is to set the board up on a bench and run it from there before putting it into the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Budwise
How can u say a Q6600 (G0) puts out more heat than a X3210 (B3) both are quad cores.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Both clocked to around 3.2Ghz ... x3210 needed 1.3250v where as the q6600 needs only 1.21v please tell me how the Q6600 in this case puts out more heat ?
Amigan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amigan
you weren't very specific in your post to tell the reader what mhz you were working at...i had to assume you were working at two different frequencies and therefore, i was thinking the Q6600 was working harder...next time, please, spell it out!:cool:
old quote here - is the 4x2GB 1:1 potential really that bad for this board? looking to oc a Q6600 around 400-450FSB. So, is this still a problem or has it been corrected with a BIOS updated maybe??Quote:
Originally Posted by bingo13
any others running 8GB with decent overclocks?
Wow... You took the words out of my mouth. :D My memory don't do well over DDR2-1020 without a very steep increase in juice to the memory controller and the memory itself. 4x1GB configuration.Quote:
Originally Posted by bingo13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I used the grease that came with the Thermalright heatsink. I had some Geil copper stuff, but read mixed reviews on it.
With my CPU at 3.402 (4x378) and uGuru showing vcore at 1.39V while Prime95 is running the small FFT test, my core temperatures shown by Core Temp are at 66C. PWM temp is at 72C with your heatsink bolt mod and some decent fans directed at the northbridge and pwm heatsinks. How high are others with the Ultima-90 overclocking and at what vcore? I may take the time to lap the heatsink if I want to try pushing the CPU higher.
I did run at 3.6 (4x900) with a pretty high vcore, passing wPrime and 16 hours of Prime95 without problems, but the core temps were probably very high. I only saw about 65C in uGuru and wasn't using Core Temp at that time.
Are there other revisions of the IP35 Pro?
Does it have 3:4 dividers yet?
Believe me, i'm not considered as a lucky person... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I believe it 's pretty easy to revert back. U can alternatively leave it as it is and place a fan on pwm heatsink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Budwise
So how does this board go for clocking Q6600's? Especially the B3 stepping? I'm looking around for a new motherboard, and this is one that's been recommended by a couple of people. However I'm a bit worried that the 4-phase power might hold it back when it comes to something that's going to want as much voltage as a Q6600 B3.
Oh, if it helps, I'm currently running 4x 1Gb 667MHz RAM sticks, but will soon be upgrading to 2x 2Gb 800MHz RAM sticks.
Eller
Well I got the 3220 B3 stepping and did the volt mod for the vdroop on this board. I got a max of like 490 fsb and a good oc of 3.4ghz water with like 1.43vcore.
Nothing special but it works (still playing) http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=229356
Does the Pro have 3:4 memory divider?
Quote:
Originally Posted by godsfist
Available memory ratios are:
1:1.00 = 1:1
1:1.20 = 5:6
1:1.25 = 4:5
1:1.50 = 2:3
1:1.66 = 3:5
1:2.00 = 1:2
I started reading this thread about two weeks ago!! I'm only on page 155 so far.
Quick question: - I have the IP35 Pro v1.10 it came with BIOS 14 installed, when I flash with 16B04 BIOS the CPU temp goes up by exactly 20c in uguru, speedfan and core temp. If I flash back to 14 it reports at the lower temp.
I'm water cooling the CPU, NB and SB then air on the PWM until my MIPS Mosfet block arrives.
I have tried all the methods suggested to other people in the thread like removing the battery clearing CMOS etc. Nothing seems to fix it, has anyone else had similar problems?
I recently put together a new machine with this mainboard. I like it running stock, but am having difficulties with the bios.
Specs:
IP35 Pro
Intel Celeron 420 (1.6GHz Conroe-L, single core)
2x1GB Crucial Tracer 8500
xp64 OS
Coretemp on Orthos is 55C on a U120X, 65-70 with stock cooler.
Last night I managed to get it to FSB 290 without locking up, at 1.28V, or 2.32GHz. The bios defaults the ram to a 1:2 ratio because the CPU's FSB is so low. I can change anything in the bios I want, except for the ram ratio. Running the CPU and memory at stock speed/timings, if I simply change the ratio from 1:2 to anything else, it causes my hard drives to go bonkers, and windows does a raid 1 verification on my matrix raid array. The bios is #14, Sept 07 I believe. I'm nowhere near the limts of the board, or ram. I only exceeded the ram's rated speed when I managed to get above 265FSB. I set the ram to the rated 2.2V for OCing purposes as well.
This is highly frustrating. Can anyone help me troubleshoot this oddity, and send me on my merry OCing way?
first of all..list your specs in your signature...that makes it easier to help....AND, your bios or uguru voltage settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo Rufus
Quote:
Originally Posted by th3joker
use coretemp096 version...let us know what you get with that?...uguru is not very accurate when it comes to core temp.
I thought I posted the essential info, but I've put the rest in the sig.
Bios:
All stock except: Vcore 1.2795V, Vmem 2.2V
Defaults in Uguru: 1.2125V Lists 1.28 in Cpuz and the uguru panel. Overvolts a lot.
Thanks Ace :) I am just about to flash the 16.B04 again. I did notice that the BIOS also reported at the higher temp as well as uguru.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
16.B04 same problem but 16.B03 is reporting correct temps so I'll stick with that.
I'm using a 9x multiplier at 400FSB which gives me 3.6GHz when I use the 8x multiplier and 450FSB all my bench scores reduce considerably. I know they aren't real world tests but it did put me off spending time on the 8x multiplier trying to go higher.
I'm seeing good temps with the 9x400, any higher and the temp spikes and rises very quickly and takes my watercooling a while to catch up.
For some strange reasons, 16.B04 doesn't work for me either. 16.B03 works fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo Rufus
two voltage essentials to successful overclocking besides vcore on the Pro board is MCH and ICHIO 1.5v...that is in addition to vdimm and cpu vtt...cpu vtt does not need to be raised a whole bunch...MCH needs to be in the 1.4x range and ICHIO 1.5 needs to be in the 1.6-1.7v range...once you have a solid working overclock, you can try tweaking those setting to a lower value.Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo Rufus
I used to have a DS3L and manage to get my E2140 Orthos stable at 435x8. However after switching to IP35 Pro, I can't even pass the 429FSB mark even I increased the MCH and ICHIO.
Any ideas what I missed out? There are indeed plenty of stuffs to configure in the BIOS and I don't raelly know what to add. I tried adding all but same thing.
the only gotcha on this board is the vdroop under load...it is about 0.04v under a load...so...you have to compensate with a higher vcore for idle conditions...remember, not every board is alike especially among different makers....i would only do that to complete orthos...after finishing lower for idle conditions....it's made easy with Uguru.Quote:
Originally Posted by aoch88
write out your voltages in your reply...also, it would be easier if you wrote out your specs in your sig.
I'll give those settings a try. I do not understand why it cannot clock to 333FSB since that is what the board is rated for.
I'll report back later after I have some time to play.
Guys !
i did the following
1. Heat Pipe Mod - remove the head pipe and check for bend, replace the TIM and put in ceramique! then use small bolts and nuts to tighten it !
2. Lapping of TRUE 120 - from 200 > 400 > 800 > 1000 > 1500 grit sandpaper !
3. Using cleaning agents - Clean both heatsink and cpu surface using ACETONE ! (wow ! so dirty!)
4. Applying of Arctic MX-2 - Applied correctly this time !:p:
5. Adding another 120mm CPU fan - doing this to make a PUSH-PULL config for the TRUE 120 !
6. Adding a 40mm fan - Just to cool the PWM
7. Adding a 140mm fan - Supply the case with good air flow !! (my ram are cooler too !)
after all these, my PWM temp never goes up 65C under load !!! my Q6600 temp also wont go above 60C !!!
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/6780/40369105yo2.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/127/22287918pn1.jpg
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5715/54940026uk4.jpg
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/111/28213364rg9.jpg
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/4286/18351536ie5.jpg
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/9070/75918942pn3.jpg
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/9199/12682524kj9.jpg
WOW !
Thanks Ace :) Well, I understand there's Vdroop issue but now, I can't even boot up - indicator says "C1" and stucked there. It doesn't matter how much Vcore or Vdimm I pump in. I suspect it might be some other settings/voltages. What does those reference voltage means, CPU VTT, ICHIO, IO, etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
My believe is if the thing got stucked at "C1", it's something to do with the RAM. Maybe FSB is too high (but it's only 429Mhz???). I've no idea how to get it working and still experimenting but if someone knows a quick answer to this, I'd truly appreciate it.
Here's my full hardware list:
E2140 M0
ABIT IP35 PRO
Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 PC6400
Sapphire Radeon 2600 PRO
I had a similar problem and it ended up being the fsb:ram ratio, it was automatically picking something a lot higher than 1:1. Try manually setting your ratio to 1:1 and let us know if that helps.
Hmm, sounds like that might be the problem. I suspected it too but I never thought settings would mess up even I save the BIOS at 1:1? In fact I've always set it to 1:1 but the moment it reboots, it hangs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scope666
BIOS 14 and Beta BIOS doesn't help. Anyone? :(
i suspect a memory problem...do you have any other sticks?
you can just take it down to one stick...try it in all four slots...switch out with the other stick(s).
where's your sig?;)
Thanks and I've done that (swapping memory on other slots + using another stick of RAM). I've also swapped CPU's (another E2140) and it always has problems booting up over 420+ FSB. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't but 429FSB and above never works.
I don't think it's the RAM because I was using those Ballistix on my DS3L very well earlier. It's either my IP35 PRO is simply gay or it's just another dud board.
Looks like there'll be no solution for me :(
i just got this board a few days ago and have been getting plagued with C1 POST codes. I've swapped RAM in various configurations. It keeps creeping back... the only thing that gets me to POST is upping the cpu volt to ~ 1.45v and the RAM volt to 2.1v
but then i keep locking up in windows. cpu-z shows my vcore is 1.009-1.2?!?! this is stock, nothing changed in BIOS except what i mentioned here. no overclock. just that unstable? that's some serious vdroop. is my board shot?
do not use CPUz when Uguru is displayed in windows...it's ok when it is back to the taskbar...there is a conflict when both are being displayed.
list all your Uguru voltages that are displayed in the "OC Uguru"....we'll try to sort this out for you....i am thinking that you are undervolting one of the major areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by aoch88
EDIT:...make sure EIST and C1E are disabled.
what version of cpuz?Quote:
Originally Posted by lefy
do you have C1E and EIST enabled?...if so, disable them.
using cpu-z 1.42Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
i'm pretty sure those are enabled by default & i didn't touch them after the BIOS flash or CMOS reset.
but you'd think this wouldn't matter just trying to run an e6850 at stock, no? I know i'd want to reset those for overclocking, but what about the average user who bought the same combo at fry's and is now wondering "wtf"? those users don't want to research BIOS settings just to run windows. sorry, too much theory on my part lol. i'm done :)