I still can't get these thing stable, i got it stable for abit, but it destabilized again.
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I still can't get these thing stable, i got it stable for abit, but it destabilized again.
Hey guys, just wanted to say thanks for all the great info posted. I've been lurking here since the 2nd page of this thread. :p: I purchased the board about a week after. It just sat while I was waiting for parts. I still don't have everything I want but a leak in the Asus Deluxe build forced a tear down. I decided to do a temp build with the Maximus just to make sure everything worked before redoing the W/C. This thread has reminded me sooo much of the ICFX3200 T2R/G board's thread. :( So many problems and unhappy people. :confused: Fortunately despite using 4GB of Ballistix 8500 things went well for the most part. I had no luck with raid 0 and XP x64 despite the latest drivers. Vista 64 installed Raid 0 without a hitch. The failure rate of the Ballistix ram is troubling and I can't help but think people aren't paying attention to the overvolting of the ram. I set the bios for 2.0 and got 2.1 in Everest and 2.3 in AI suite. :shocked: I backed down to 1.9 and now Everest reads 2.0 and AI 2.05. This is running stock 1066 speed. It's been folding stable for a week. My NB was running 45C despite chilly 65F ambients so I decided to reseat the NB and SB. Whoa! They used mega amounts of adhesive. NB was completely covered and SB almost.It took at least 30 minutes and felt like 45 to remove the block and HS with extreme care. Check out the pix. With 4 screws and a back plate why on earth did they feel adhesive was necessary???? I probably won't have this rig back up with my W/C and be ready to OC till next weekend. By then maybe bios 902 will be up. :) And I won't have my 3870s in crossfire till about the 12th. :)
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7452/p1010016ku2.jpg
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1585/p1010018ek8.jpg
Edit: I have an active ram cooler coming for the Ballistix. Even on the my Asus deluxe they could burn you running at the rated 2.2v. That ain't right.
Hi. I just purchased Asus Maximus Formula and this awesome board fried my memory.It worked before, now it doesn't.
I have some questions...maybe I get an answer:
1. The revision of the board is written somewhere on the PCB, sticker, box,etc or you are supposed to have a hunch when you hold the MB in your hand?I spent 30 minutes trying to find any hint and I failed
2.Is there any 4 GB kit that WORKS with this board without errors in memtest 86? I understood 4x1 GB is more problematic that 2x2 gb.
3. The errors from memtest are motheboard's fault or memory's fault?Is it possible that the memory is affected by higher voltage , as Asus Probe shows? In my case bios says 2.2v, Asus Probe 2.29 and Asus AI suite over 2.55 v on a Vista-64 bit os
Should I RMA this board, since I can not run anything only with 1 dimm-is it defective...what the hell...300$ and a set of 4gb memory with errors which goes back to Mushkin.
Sorry, I know...too many question. But I bought the MB 7 days ago and can still return it. I am thinking taking the Gigabyte instead, too many problems with this board.
Please advice...Thank you
I have been running the Corsair Dominator DDR2-1066 4x 1GB kit for a month now without problems on the board with BIOS 0505. I don't have a very high overclock though, 320*9 w/ Q6600 B3 until I have time to break the system down and install better cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by aghory
1.There is only 1 version of the Formula SE. 1.02G. It's between The PCI-E slots in the lower right hand corner of the Maximus Formula. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aghory
2. Somwhere in this thread it was stated memtest 86 does not work with the X38 chipset. Don't use it. How does the computer run at stock settings? Does it show any signs of memory errors in normal use? Is it Prime or OCCT stable?
3. If you had read any of this thread, you would know the MB overvolts ram by at least .1 and you should adjust for that in the bios so you don't fry it. At 2.0 in the bios AI suite said I was 2.3. Everest said 2.1. I tend to believe Everest but... many have lost ram on this board. :shrug:
4. I'd say ignore memtest and see how it performs doing what you usually do. If it's locking up or exhibiting intolerable behavior RMA it. Especially if the ram is know good from another rig. If the ram is new and unused... you may really have bad ram. I've had more issues with new ram than new motherboards. HTH. :)
Well, I'm running now with the following settings, but my Idle temp is reporting as 60C!! (it was 42C with my 680i @ 3.6GHz)
Ratio 9 Freq 400 (3.6GHz - originally 2.4GHz)
CPU 1.5
CPU PLL 1.6
NB 1.49
DRAM 2.2
FSB Term 1.4
SB 1.15
SV 1.5 1.6
... why on earth is this burning so hot - especially with my liquid cooled system?
Idle @ 2.4GHz was ~28-30C...
What BIOS? Try using CoreTemp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aghory
I have 4 * 1 GB Kingston DDR2 HyperX PC9600 CL5-5-5-5. They are rated for 2.3-2.35v, but I run them at 2.2v ( 2.09 in bios ), and they don't get hot.
They are able to run CL3-3-3-6 @ DDR 833MHz on the maximus.
Haven't experienced any problems with them at all! I Love them!
They are cheap, and they deffently deserve more attention!
Yep, hence why it's better to test many programs for benching. I'll try to give you some situations showing that necessity, and limitations of every programQuote:
Originally Posted by Aldy402
OCCT in RAM mode proved to be the more stressing and revealing errors on NB-RAM combo. Do remember, that even an error code 4 (CPU) can be due to a NB or RAM error (vNB, vDDR, RAM timings, STRAP...). If the NB and RAM return erronous values to the CPU, than OCCT and any other program will have a round off error check and read it as a CPU error, so be careful interpreting the results... (Sine I changed my RAM to Hyperx 9600 and used a 4:5 multiplier to get 974MHz on them, I need 1.55v on my NB instead of 1.45 for 1:1, otherwise OCCT in RAM mode will return me an error code 4). The more you OC your RAM, the more you need to volt your NB too, even if the FSB is unchanged
Also, OCCT in CPU mode should be as effective as Prime95 small FFT in testing CPU stability. On the other side, to check cooling limits of the CPU, small FFT is better as it generates more heat. Do remember, that no program will generate as much heat as small FFT (if we exclude the crazy intel TAT).
Finally, a F@H for some hours should be a necessary check, as it is a real program that can much stress the CPU-NB-RAM all together.
As a Prime95 Blend test uses more RAM than OCCT, it can reveal more hardware defects in RAM than OCCT, like Memtest would do. Also, Blend test will heat the CPU more than OCCT in RAM mode, thus unveiling an unsufficient CPU cooling. But definetely, OCCT in RAM mode, will stress your RAM an NB much much more than Prime Blend.
Hope my explanations show you why you need many programs to test your OC stability.
The final test, will be every day use to see if you have reboots, BSOD or random strange program or memory access violation errors
With my ADVICE - this "intervention" takes 30-40 sec. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by WFO
Interesting, I've been using V3.3 since I got the board and as far as I can tell it works fine. When Vista was telling me I was having memory problems I fired up Memtest and found which sticks were faulty. I've also used it to figure out my sub timmings prior to running OCCT and I've been completely stable because of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by WFO
For not working, it has been doing a pretty good job for me.
What temps do you run when OCCTing Malik please with your setup @3.6 or higher thanks in advance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malik
And what is all the components in your loop please so I can copy lol? Because it looks pretty cool and I bet it is.:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoogyMonster
It´s bios related as said check with coretemp. if your cores are in the 50s or below there is now chance in hell that your CPU is idling in 60 c. Bios Power "diagnostic" and PC probe are not accurate with some Bios versions.
I wonder if most people are using Memtest86+ v1.7? Or Classic Memtest86 v3.3? Because the chap above me who uses 3.3 and has no issues could be on to something... I know I've only tried 1.7v '+' version?
Oh jeez.... :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Warboy
Chris
anyone stable with 430x9 with a Q6600?
I use these settings:
get stable only 20min /OCCT
Vcore=1.45
FSBT=1.65
NB=1.68
SB2=1.65
SB=1.10
DRAM=2.2
all other settings (auto)
maybe anyone has a suggest
push your vcore ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by pushook
I was a week ago, but I've been so many problems lately, I think these board hates my Cheap 680W power supply, So I'm waiting till I get my Antec 850W back from RMA to see if its that, If its not, then either the memory controller on the X38 is dying or my Memory is dying, I can't say for sure right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by pushook
Lower NB and FSB and increase vcore would be my first idea..Quote:
Originally Posted by pushook
deleted - reposted down below
The strange thing is that with a pair it works with memory in single-channel, in blue and white slots but when I stick it in dual-channel it is stuck and won't boot at "checking dram" or something similar. Does it mean the board is defective or it's a memory issue?(the other pair is stuck from the beginning, wouldn't ever boot)Quote:
Originally Posted by WFO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigchrome
thx, ok i testet with these settings:
Vcore=1.45 raised up to 1.52vcore step by step
raising vcore on my system ends in early reboots
whats with CPU PLL in the bios?
FSBT=1.50
NB=1.50
SB2=1.55
SB=1.10
DRAM=2.2
I'm using OCCT 1.1.1, and don't see an sliders and when it fails, it just says, "Crashed", no hints... What version are you guys using?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElEctric_EyE
1.1.1b
1.1.1b, same here...Quote:
Originally Posted by pushook
That was link for 1.2.0.b06 with slider.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
Actually, I'm using SpeedFan, which AFAIK is pretty accurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZilverPhish
Also, CoreTemp doesn't work on Vista x64... (at least it doesn't list the OS)
Yah verified - Coretemp does not work in Vista x64. You'd think after all this time the author would have fixed it...
The issue is driver signing - I don't know why the author just doesn't get the driver signed. Sheesh.
Anyway, SpeedFan seems to be very reliable and accurate. Right now my 3060 is idling at 27C @ 2.4GHz (native) with an ambient temperature of 72.5F.
Many of the original bios releases were to fix memory compatibility issues. Have you flashed to 802 or 901 with only one stick?Quote:
Originally Posted by aghory
Whats the Difference??
DRAM Freq.
and
FSB Strap to North Bridge
"The FSB Strap to North Bridge option allows you access to memory ratios tied to specific FSB settings,"
Also whats does PCIE Frequency do for performance and stability?
Still nobody answer my question. :( What's the most stable BIOS version by far and why there is a big jump in CPU temp when I moved from 602 to 802 or 901?
The Jump reflects that the bios was changed to give a more accurate temp figure at the core of the cpu, changed in bios 701. I use 602 but all are not too bad, get lesser scores everest memory with later bios's so have stuck with 602. There someone has answered your post happy lol.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by iTravis
I would try setting the NB to 1,55V then 1,6V if it doesn't work...Quote:
Originally Posted by pushook
Thank you, I appreciate that. :D I actually downgraded from 802 to 602 and the temp went back to normal. ) According to ur sig, you have urs running at 3.6 with 602 and that's what I'm aiming for right now. What yours idle and full load temp like? Do you think it's a good idea to stick with 602 and what BIOS version gives you more accurate temp?Quote:
Originally Posted by DeViTTo
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoogyMonster
There's a workaround copy out there that does work. I'm in Vista 64 and run coretemp. Google it.
Oh I forgot to mention this, after changing to 602, my CPU temp looks normal but the NB, SB, DRAM voltages are ridiculously high for some reasons. Do you have the same problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by DeViTTo
Thank You :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by Budious
http://www.overclock.net/attachments...4-vistax64.zipQuote:
Originally Posted by MoogyMonster
Well,I installed the CoreTemp "fix" for Vista, and it gave me the same #'s as Speedfan.
So my idle @ 2.4GHz on my 3060 is 28-30C. The idle @ 3.6GHz was 54-56C. What's happening here? Why is my idle temp for the 3.6GHz so high? It was ~42C with my 680i. If I were to run my 3060 at the 54-56C idle I'd be hitting 70C+ under load, which AFAIK is a very bad thing.
Here's my voltage settings:
CPU 1.5
FSB 1.5
PLL 1.6
NB 1.49
SB 1.10
Any ideas?
Loadline Enabled
Wow. This makes NO sense. I just lowered my CPU voltage to 1.48, and the PLL to 1.5, and it didn't change the temp at all...
I'm running BIOS 901. Is it possible the BIOS temps are off by 10-15C?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ninogui
cmon people.. no comments or help.?
this should be pretty much newbie stuff for u .
When u set xxx volts for the RAM, u will read like 0.1 higher @ Asus probe and Asus Suit even higher, but did any1 of u did some DIMMreadings? If so by how much does it actually overvolts according to what is set @ bios?
Finally had time to put my WC on... and I'm pissed: board is bending but it's still overheating (~90C) in idle if I give it ~1.5V... obviously the Storm somehow doesn't work.... what should be the normal idle temperature at stock speed?
I got some ridiculous, 50+ Celsius with water... :(
I think you'll find they won't fit mate. They are the Type 1 versions and the same as the ones I had. Its definately the Type 2 versions you need but as I have already said I can't get them in the UK. I have since refitted the original Asus mosfet cooler and its running cooler than it was before anyway! I can only assume this is because the rest of the board is better cooled and the mosfets aren't linked up to the NB via the heatpipe...Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
This is my settings for 3.4GHz OCCT,Everest and Prime95 stable, maybe it will give you some insightQuote:
Originally Posted by ninogui
Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 8
FSB Frequency : 425
FSB Strap to North Bridge : AUTO
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1133
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay : AUTO
Row Refresh Cycle Time : AUTO
Write Recovery Time : AUTO
Read to Precharge Time : AUTO
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : AUTO
Write to Read Delay (S) : AUTO
Write to Read Delay (D) : AUTO
Read to Read Delay (S) : AUTO
Read to Read Delay (D) : AUTO
Write to Write Delay (S) : AUTO
Write to Write Delay (D) : AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Strong
Transaction Booster : AUTO
CPU Voltage : 1.45
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.50
North Bridge Voltage : 1.61
DRAM Voltage : 1.98
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.40
South Bridge Voltage : 1.050
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : Auto
North Bridge GTL Reference : Auto
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : AUTO
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : AUTO
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : AUTO
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.5
NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED : Disabled
CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled
Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 8
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Enabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled
USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled
Just updated BIOS from 701 to 901 hoping it will help if it's a temp reading error but no luck - it seems there's no workaround, CPU got too much compound, I have to remove the Storm and clean it... should've checked it before I have mounted... :brick: :brick: :brick:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
OK man... it will help so i can step up slowly.. but anyway you have all watercooled.. lolol and pc8500 mems.
maybe someone out there with a similar to mine spec.?
anyway thks for the reply!
greets
i have an issue i need help with
i have this mobo with the shipping bios...401
silverstone 1000w psu, evga 8800gtx, 2x 2 gb g.skill, q6600 go, all this, and i am overclocked 400 x 9 .... 3.6
and i am getting 3200 on 3dmark 06....wtf????
this was both oc'ed and at stock settings....all the newest drivers....i dont understand it....
cod4 plays like crap, with alot of lag....what gives?
my monitor is a dell 3007
any ideas why my score is so low?
the rig in my sig blows this score away....12,000 or something up there
please help me figure this out, i am stumped!!~!
TIA
I had some trouble with my WC. The trouble was that the capacitators north of the CPU socket. I had to push them a little upwards to fit my cpublock. Maybe its worth a try ?Quote:
Originally Posted by T2k
EDIT: -bend +push
What is the latest of OCCT and best for use in dual CPU and core 2 as of today?Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
Links???
really? ok i will check it.....but why would it run at 2x until the NB volts are raised? shouldnt it run at 16x at stock volts?Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekFSE
says 16x in cpu-z
just ran 3d05 and got another crappy score 5708
whats going on???
lol you don't have to bend anything to fit a waterblock on this board. T2k just needs to get with the times and get a D-tek. the storm is not good for quads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkstormz
Oh well ok I didnt mean bend. I just pushed them about 1mm upwards because my waterblock was too big to make 100% contact with the CPU without pushing the capacitators.Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
And I didnt know Storm was bad for quads. But now I now :)
Except when you have to...Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
Or perhaps just remove some compound...?Quote:
T2k just needs to get with the times and get a D-tek.
Jesus, what kind of an uneducated urban legend BS is this... :D since when "storm is not good for quads"? BTW since when Storm knows which CPU it is on...? :rolleyes:Quote:
the storm is not good for quads.
Yeah, sure. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Darkstormz
Anyone have any ideas? From my previous post...
Wow. This makes NO sense. I just lowered my CPU voltage to 1.48, and the PLL to 1.5, and it didn't change the temp at all - it's still 54C at idle @ 3.6GHz and 28C at idle @ 2.4GHz.
Temps are confirmed by Core and Speedfan.
I'm running BIOS 901. Is it possible the BIOS temps are off by 10-15C for the OC?
there are many threads on it go look.Quote:
Originally Posted by T2k
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...torm+quad+core
the surface area of the storm is the difference.
No I dont my volts in windows via asus probe not accurate but.Quote:
Originally Posted by iTravis
vcore 1.47
NB 1.63
memory is 2.10 in bios 2.16 in probe
SB 1.06
Temps are
cpu 43
mb36
nb 47
sb 43
on load with OCCT hit 60 +
Try setting 450 x 8 and 400mhz strap @1200
just set volts for mem at 2.10v leave others auto
but change loadline enabled
Should be fine from there on in @3.6 on air or water
Try it and see good luck :up:
Ouch!!Quote:
Originally Posted by thelawns
Thanks for the info. ;)
What did you use to remount the stock sinks with? Thurmal pads?
Uhhh are you aware that was an original Storm, not a v2...?Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
I have a rev2 storm there's not much difference, if you want to keep on using it that's your choice. The information about the D-tek vs the storm is on this forum you can do a search yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by T2k
I DID ask others before I decided to hold on my v2 - most people said the difference is rather subtle, in the single-digit Celsius range which is nothing compared to the problems I am having right now. My current CPU temp is WORSE than it was WITH STOCK AIR COOLING which is clearly not about Storm v2 vs Fuzion, don't you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
Other than some bored or extreme OC'er noone gives a :banana::banana::banana::banana: about 6-8C extra, I think. :cool:
PS: my main reason many years ago for going WC was to get a silent machine AND great OC performance. :)
have you taken the storm apart and cleaned it?Quote:
Originally Posted by T2k
take a picture of your setup.
No. Should I? Only 2-3 weeks ago my old Opteron setup was running fine at ~3.0GHz...Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
First I have to find my XT for that... :)Quote:
take a picture of your setup.
i had a temp problem with my waterblock as well. I got the swiftech h20 220 ultra kit and i pulled off the mobo and seated the waterblocked and looked at it from 360 degrees to make sure the copper plate was actually in full contact with the processor.
I then applied thermal grease, and seated the waterblock again and securely mounted it to the mobo before mounting the mobo back into the case.
Before, i was seeing 80*C with water cooling which was ridiculous. I pulled everything off, cleaned the old thermal grease, did the aforementioned procedure, and now i'm running a cool 40*C on a 9x400 OC profile.
While under prime95 or everest, temps will go up to mid 60's to low 70's while at 100% load.
hope that helps some people
I think the grease is fine on my system given my ambient temp (in the office) is 80-81F and at idle I'm ~32C @ 2.4GHz. When it's cooler (in the mid 70's) the idle temp is ~28C.
AFAIK that's what it should be; would you agree?
What doesn't make sense is the massive spike and the fact that I had the same (above) mentioned Idle temps with my 680i, yet when I was @ 3.6GHz my idle was, perhaps 48C. With this board, it's ~56C - nearly 10C higher...
BTW what's the safe max operating temp for my 3060? Anyone know?
Hi all, I've posted a very little here about my Maximus Formula woes and it turns out it may not be the Maximus at all.
3 Video Cards and 2 Maximus Formulas have all had the same problem, so that narrowed it down the RAM and the power supply. I took out one of my 2GB G.Skill pc2-8000 sticks and viola, the system is stable again. So, it appears it was a RAM issue all along.
I see that many here on the forums are running the new G.Skill 4GB 2x2 kit without issues. What's the best test to see if this Ram is really bad? Am I simply missing some setting in the BIOS that will fix this problem without an RMA? Am I better off with another brand? The ASUS QVL list is pretty restrictive...and pretty expensive. I'd hoped to use 2x2048 so that I can expand in the future.
Thanks for the assistance.
Intel Q6600 G0
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme
Maximus Formula BIOS 901
G.Skill DDR2-1000 2048x2
Thermaltake ToughPower 700W
BFG 8800GT OC
Of course the Storm doesn't know, it was designed when single core processors were the norm it is an impingement design where all the cooling is directed at where the single core would be, so on a quad a core of 2 cpu's is not having and coolant put over it so therefore 2 cores run much higher temps than the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by T2k
Also it doesn't work properly on a dual core cpu for the same reason.
I have read 0 complaints about Corsair PC8500. They perform well for me also with FSB very close to 1800FSB w/1.9V. I paid $220 for 2 sticks of 1GB each. Price is down to $160 (@Newegg) now, 2 months later!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMight
Any thoughts on how to make this stable. I'm on the verge here. Boots up fine and sometimes will be OCCT stable after 1 test, sometimes itll reboot, sometimes BSOD. Anyone have some advice? So far just testing CPU..
I fully agree with what was told to youQuote:
Originally Posted by T2k
- The Storm s**ks with quads, take it or leave it, it is a fact. The difference won't be 20°C though, of course, but it could be, depending on your setup, up to 10°C. remember, most tests used a 150W heat output. A high overclocked Q6600 will reach 220-240W... The new GTX for example was optimized for quad core CPUs
- Your Eheim 1048 is a low end competitor for the LPDC circuit you have. Coupled with your restrictive Storm WB and very restrictive BlackIce Pro, plus a MCW30 and MCW60 like it or not, you have a rather low-mid range WB circuit. Only high end watercooling can outperform high end air cooling. Even your two Eiheim in series won't make it. You'll rather need two MCP655 in series
- Finally, your BlackIce Pro will never handle massive OC, even with two Eiheim in serial, from a Q6600, MCW30 and MCW60
Many people here, with a MCP655 pump, and a PA120.3 fight with heat above 3.6GHz, so don't expect a miracle from your watercooling unless you change the pumps and the WB
Finally, suerely reseating can give you some headroom if the problem is there
Here's where you can order type 2:Quote:
Originally Posted by thelawns
http://www.pc-cooling.de/VGA-Chipset...9S+Type+2.html
They are in stock and they ship in Europe
Thanks... I'm not taking this thing apart again to fit them now though to be honest. I'm happy with the results I have so far! :D :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
I will be getting this board soon, and was HOPING someone can answer just 2 Q's for me...... What does "OC FROM CPU LEVEL UP" mean? and "FSB STRAP TO NB" where to set this if your only aiming for a 430FSB using PC8500 ballistix ram. Many thanks....
I'd start by comparing your setting to Renegade's.Quote:
Originally Posted by ElEctric_EyE
2nd, based on other's reports in this thread, reseating the fusion block and adding water will provide much better stability with over 10C drops in NB temp. There are also plenty of links to the TR heat sinks in this thread if you must stay on air. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade5399
Yes, I will have to do this, I guess, thanks - didn't have the time and energy to do it last night. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by chocobo15
Correct and it's exactly my point: Ii DON'T CARE ABOUT EXTRA 6-8 Celsius but when it's over 60C at stock on idle then Houston has a problem, not the Swiftech, don't you agree?Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
Contrary to all this seemingly very logical points my setup handled my old ~3.0Ghz Opteron rig very well. :PQuote:
A high overclocked Q6600 will reach 220-240W... The new GTX for example was optimized for quad core CPUs
- Your Eheim 1048 is a low end competitor for the LPDC circuit you have. Coupled with your restrictive Storm WB and very restrictive BlackIce Pro, plus a MCW30 and MCW60 like it or not, you have a rather low-mid range WB circuit. Only high end watercooling can outperform high end air cooling. Even your two Eiheim in series won't make it. You'll rather need two MCP655 in series
- Finally, your BlackIce Pro will never handle massive OC, even with two Eiheim in serial, from a Q6600, MCW30 and MCW60
In fact earlier, when I kept it running at 2.8GHz, it was running fine even with fans being off on BIP due to an accident (I disconnected them and didn't notice it for almost a month :D).
Also MCW30 is obviously off now, I use the Asus Fuzion stuff and I haven't even plugged in my AGEIA yet... :eek:
Since when Intel's stock cooling considered high-end air cooling?
Well, since this chip ran fine at 3.6GHz with stock air cooling I would dare to say I shouldn't have any problem until 3.8GHz...Quote:
Many people here, with a MCP655 pump, and a PA120.3 fight with heat above 3.6GHz, so don't expect a miracle from your watercooling unless you change the pumps and the WB
Sure thing, thanks, I will do it on the weekend.Quote:
Finally, suerely reseating can give you some headroom if the problem is there
I don't think you can compare a newer CPU with the heatoutput of your old opteron,... look so many peeps have given you advice that ya current cooling needs some upgrading too... if you don't want it why ask it ? You even say the air coling cuts it at 3.6 while ya WC setup doesn't !
Many peeps used the good old arctic cooling 64Pro with their opterons and got good clocks and even good temps , though for the newer batches of CPU's it just doesn't cut it...
Only thing you can do is to flush everything again and reseat it , though I doubt it will bring much...
I have the D-Tek fuzion , EK waterblock for the 8800GTX, Fuzion block of the mobo all on a thermochill PA120.3 and Extreme Flow 240 on one Laing Ultra pump...with 8/10 tubing.
CPU idles at around 30-35 degrees Centigrade at 3.4Ghz (on 1.3 volts), tops out at 55-58°C under Prime test, GPU remains at 35°C idle tops out at 50°C under 3DMark stress....
I really hope you can bring them down with ya current setup mate, though I doubt it...
Well keep us posted how it goes, but don't start to flame and curse here, we all want to help and we do it for free !!!
Exactly. That tells me it's unlikely my Storm, rather something else, like the aforementioned re-seating. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
I am actually SURE it will - don't you think it's absurd to have 60+ Celsius when idling, at stock clockspeed?:)Quote:
Many peeps used the good old arctic cooling 64Pro with their opterons and got good clocks and even good temps , though for the newer batches of CPU's it just doesn't cut it...
Only thing you can do is to flush everything again and reseat it , though I doubt it will bring much...
How does the PA120.3 compare to BIPIII?Quote:
I have the D-Tek fuzion , EK waterblock for the 8800GTX, Fuzion block of the mobo all on a thermochill PA120.3 and Extreme Flow 240 on one Laing Ultra pump...with 8/10 tubing.
CPU idles at around 30-35 degrees Centigrade at 3.4Ghz (on 1.3 volts), tops out at 55-58°C under Prime test, GPU remains at 35°C idle tops out at 50°C under 3DMark stress....
I'm fairly convinced it will come down - however I know my 1048s are doomed for replacement... only if I could find a similarly inaudible but stronger external (AC) units...Quote:
I really hope you can bring them down with ya current setup mate, though I doubt it...
No flaming from my part, I just don't like when somebody jumps in and calls me an idiot when posting some stupid stuff without reading my numbers first. :)Quote:
Well keep us posted how it goes, but don't start to flame and curse here, we all want to help and we do it for free !!!
Look all those components I have will give a 5 - 8°C max difference compared to the gear you have, I'm just doubting the pumps can handle it all, I swapped my Laing to the Ultra plus version and it dropped idle temps with 3°C and load temps with 7°C, and that's just a silly pump replacement...and indeed 60°C on idle seems like eg the pumps aren't even working...
I'm not into big watercoolign comparison stuff, I have a link here that does a comparison with the GT version of your rad, also on that forum you can talk to Macci ( Mr Thermochill ) and ask some incredible technical explenations, maybe it's a good thing to drop in there mate and ask about ya issues
read up here :
http://www.over-clock.co.uk/ivb/inde...howtopic=17958
Good luck !!
Thanks a bunch, Leeghoofd - will read it in lunch break! :)
can someone PLEASE assist me with this question before it gets burried in this thread:shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by newls1
FROM LEVEL UP means it will start with given CPU's specs (ie 3GHz for QX6850 etc).
Nice OC on your Q6600. Are you sure you want to buy a Maximus Formula, when the X48 is coming in a couple of weeks maybe... and suerely will solve some of the OC limits with quads (official support of FSB 400 on quad core CPUs)Quote:
Originally Posted by newls1
The Maximus won't give you anything more than your PK5
My thoughts...
About your question, FSB strap would be set to 333 to check if stable, but as probably unstable, rather to 400
The maximus will provide me with PCIE 2.0 and full speed 16x 16x for x-firing 2 3870's, where as my beloved P5K-DLX won't;)Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
Yeah "FROM LEVEL UP" is just easy OCing to the next higher chip... it only gives specs of the Chip it is listing, more for a beginner I would imagine is the audience they targeted it at.Quote:
Originally Posted by T2k
LEVEL UP is easy. It automaticly sets your CPU settings to that of a faster CPU. My 6750 can go to eather a 6800 or 6850 settings. Edit: There is also a Crazy setting. Don't know what that gives me though.Quote:
Originally Posted by newls1
The FSB STRAP TO NB is one I don't know. I asked and got no reply. :confused: It looks to be your RAM to CPU setting like 1:1. But I don't know because there is a DRAM Frez. setting.
Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 8
FSB Frequency : 400
FSB Strap to North Bridge : AUTO
PCI-E Frequency: 100
DRAM Frequency: DDR2- 800
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 4
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 4
RAS# Precharge : 4
RAS# ActivateTime : 12
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time : Auto
Read to Precharge Time : Auto
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Auto
Ai Clock Twister : Strong
Transaction Booster : Auto
CPU Voltage : 1.20000
CPU PLL Voltage : Auto
North Bridge Voltage : 1.35
DRAM Voltage : 2.09
FSB Termination Voltage : Auto
South Bridge Voltage : Auto
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : Auto
North Bridge GTL Reference : Auto
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.5
NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED : Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled
Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 8
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled
USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled
Clock speed is OK for now, anybody has some improvement tips?
Maybe 1T if that will post mate (never tried it with 4 dimms though), or run the ram slightly faster then 800mhz my HZ's could do 980mhz easy, but be carefull the board slightly overvolts the ram so you are about running the Gskill at 2.2 volts... make sure they are well cooled...
3600mhz next step ?
I have a dominator memory cooler so they will be cooled well i hope, but i still running them on spec volts so.
I'm still pushing the Vcore / NB Volt down and still OCCT runs great.. I don't get it. Anybody has the min settings for 3200Mhz on a G0?
Maybe next week will try to push 8 x 450 but for now the 3200 is great, the chip runs great on low volts.
you def. need to raise your fsb-t to atleast 1.54 for your valuesQuote:
Originally Posted by ElEctric_EyE
Hey Guys, Quick question on Asus SE. The FSB is 1333MHz, but it can go up to 1600MHZ. Is this True? And also with this board, Can I go beyond 4GB System Ram, if I have a 64bit System? THX!
answer to your first question is no it doesnt support 1600 mhz fsb, the x48 will support 1600 fsb however you can just overclock your mobo to get o 1600 fsb, and the seconde question is yes it will support up to 8Quote:
Originally Posted by vegettoxp
yes it supports 1600FSBQuote:
Originally Posted by vegettoxp
http://www.asus.com.tw/products.aspx...11&l3=572&l4=0
It can go higher than 1600MHz, upwards of 2000MHz with decent cooling and high volts!
And yes, you can use up to 8GB with this board and a 64bit OS.
Want to know what all those BIOS Options really do (e.g. strapping)?? See
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets...spx?i=3156&p=4
Thank YouQuote:
Originally Posted by Nurn
This is not only normal for current BIOS since v0701, but moe on par for what the average combined core temps are, opposed to as before (reading only IHS surface temp). Use your favorite temp monitoring to confirm. If the BIOS temp you got looks close to the core temps (averaged) then you're fine. CPU temp in ASUS Probe is still reading IHS.Quote:
Originally Posted by T2k
This is hardly true. Granted, water blocks are getting better then the past 5 yrs, CPU's are getting cooler and easier to keep there too on both air and water. Regaedless of cooler, an old Athlon XP Barton was harder to keep cool under high OC then even a B3 quad, and twice as easy as the earliest core 2's. So Any cooler built for the,m or the Intel D's will do the jobe on these quads.Quote:
Of course the Storm doesn't know, it was designed when single core processors were the norm it is an impingement design where all the cooling is directed at where the single core would be, so on a quad a core of 2 cpu's is not having and coolant put over it so therefore 2 cores run much higher temps than the other.
Also it doesn't work properly on a dual core cpu for the same reason.
The difference is quality. If it was low end then, it's less today. Look into the Swiftech's for better water cooling. I use them and like them for both CPU & chipset.
Also NOTE; as I said so many times on these forums, prepperation is the key to performance. propperly & completely, remove the previous TIM if it was different, and propperly clean if it was same but exposed to grease (fingers, and so on). The reaction of two different compounds can actually hinder the thermal transfer efficancy, and work against it as a blanket or insulator. So clean, clean, clean. Rubbing alcohal is not enough. Remove 1st wth non residu degreasing agent (automotive carb or break cleaner) swabbed on & worked over good with a soft brush, followed by 99% Alchohal (A/V head cleaner strength).
God luck to all!
Well thats it, my work is done. I have taken both my E6550 2.33ghz and my 8800GTS (513 core / 792 mem) to their max stable overclocks and i'm tinkering no more. At standard, using 3DMark06 I reached a score of:
SM 2.0 = 3981
HDR/SM 3.0 = 3823
CPU = 2056
Total = 8597 :down:
I now have my E6550 running at 502x7 = 3.514Ghz and my 8800GTS at 625 core and 1035 mem to reach the following 3DMark06 score:
SM 2.0 = 4963
HDR/SM 3.0 = 4874
CPU = 3103
Total = 11304 :up:
To say i'm more than happy with that is an understatement, for the lowest priced 1333mhz CPU I could get my hands on, I reached an overclock I really didn't expect on air! Thanks for all your help guys... :yepp: :clap:
Way cool, I knew those 6550's had a chance on this mobo.Quote:
Originally Posted by thelawns