only 70c with all those Volt mods?
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only 70c with all those Volt mods?
Yep. Running stock speeds FTW bios.
you didn't get any more gains from bridging all those connectors and doing the pencil mod?
I did, but I dont need to run that 247. I get 70 fps 1920x1200 8x AA in crysis wars. But for benching I run 760/1700/1480 for now. And I just did the bridging, not the pencil. I basically just made my cards FTW.
Also FTW speeds are 720/1620/1390.
My SSCs both do 735/1656/2800
I really got to get off my butt and try these mods out...I'm sure i can achieve 800 or so on the core and at least 1750 or more on the shader.
The shader is only restricted by the temperature, so if put these 2 beats on water I should see some huge gains.
Temp never held my shader back. My first 285 vanilla does 775/1760/1550 easily. My new one isnt broken in yet but I can tell it is loosening up a bit.
the added voltage didnt really affect my temps either. I have read a few times about the higher temps holding back the OC on these. Not meaning that it is overheating, but just that the clocks respond better when the temps are cooler. I know my card didnt overclock any better with added voltage, and temps seemed to max at 73c when it would crash, where I have seen as high as 78c on stable OC with no issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMagoo
I ordered a HR 03 GTX and Im trying to find the VRM heatsinks. Had some correspondence with thermalright, but if anyone knows an online retailer that carries them let me know..
vanilla 285
solder link 1/2/3/4/5/11...=1.22v
try to shade resistor ,but too hard to shade it to desire ohm value...
finally solder 500k vr...trying at 1.3v...warranty void....hehee
i penciled the vdiff resistor down to 100 ohm with a #2 easily
its more than possible just gotta try diff pencils
the lowest resistance that works is 200 ohm any lower and protections kick in..
330 ohm or 200 ohm both same 1.33vcore @ load
vid pins are holding that back from any higher
unfortunately looks like even vids are limited to this voltage
i got a 330 ohm vdiff resistor on the amp on which i moved d19 to d18 and still 1.32-33vcore.. 2D @ 1.24
then i removed d18.. same voltage.. the only diff 2D voltage returned to normal 1.08v
What would you recommend on leads, I managed to find 6B at office depot. Seems the HB are very common, all i see everywhere else..
I am just awaiting the HR 03 GTX with xtra VRM heatsinks to get in stock, Thermalright shipped them out to resellers this week... But I figure when I have it apart I want to shade it as well as possible and see if I can get any clock gains with cooler temps...
I also managed to reduce the resistance with some 21/2=HB pencil to 290 ohm. I've cleared everything and made the hall mod again, but it gives me only 1.24v again. It looks like 1.33v is a dream for may card without hard vmod :(
Guys, how come no one else is reporting any gains from this mod? Certainly this thread has been seen thousands of times and certainly some people have performed some of these mods as simple as they are.
Fo the record, I used a silver conductive pen last night on 2 and 4 and gained nothing on my vanilla eVGA 285. It was already a great overclocker, but it seems if these voltage mods were actual, they would produce better results.
Not sure why no one is really gaining anything worth noting. I admire the effort involved here and I'm not downplaying what's been accomplished, I guess I'm just wondering if it's even worth it if no one is gaining anything and it seems that the same 4-5 people are the only one's posting in this thread. Where are the others with their results? :shrug:
good question... and these mods do work in the sense that reading the voltage before and after the mods shows the exact change.
However the additional OC is yet to be seen. As well with the ongoing bios/software modding it seems these gpu's could care less about the added voltage, they just dont want to run any faster.
after getting a pm about a recap gone wrong now this ^ *sigh*
goodness sake guys! i only recommend the back to be capped @ C561-4
i do not recommend recap of the panasonic 330uf spcaps and sanyo 220uf poscaps unless you know well what youre doing.. and i posted on how bad the card got after that recap.. took a number of recaps to get the hang of the gpu/mem
looks like ill have to revise/delete posts
what miracles do you guys expect from such low v increment ? i was already at 1.26vcore load.. now @ 1.33
fake voltage?? well i guess a 1.38vcore at which temp rise higher than at 1.26/1.33 is fake too..
1.38vcore via step #3 is too much for stock cooler/thermalright hr03/air
im looking and looking and i may just get more vcore via other means but i only got so much time i can spend on the 285 and im doing it all alone by myself with my very limited knowledge the only help came/comes from cryptic here @ thread.. whom i owe another thank you
What do you mean actual voltage? It is there no doubt...everyone has tested with a MM and showing the increase in voltage...how could you refute that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
I saw major gains on one of my cards. Also note that HEAT kills OC no matter what, there are people without the volt mod doing 800 on the core with water so....imagine what it would be with it.
If it was not for this thread I would have stepped up to 295 I am glad I didnt because I spank 295s all day long.
Upping the voltages using the crappy stock cooler ain't cutting it. When you're getting temps like 85-95°C under heavy load unmodded, what do you guys expect from upping the volts??? BBQ??? <- you should!
Cooling is evident for clocking the shader core, I might even state it's more important than increasing volts. You always should improve cooling first.
Just my :2cents:
What I meant by actual voltage is that maybe it's possible those voltages are bring measured but not actually what the GPU is seeing. Maybe there's other components in the circuitry preventing the GPU from receiving the extra voltage from this mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMagoo
My 285 has yet to break 73c under 100% fan load during loops of Crysis and will often run in the very low 60's for any other benchmark. If heat is the real issue we'll know tomorrow when my FC waterblock shows up, but I'm doubting that's the issue at this point. While I'm certain I'll gain just a slight amount from watercooling, I don't think any additional voltage from these mods are going to push it any further because my experience with this mod so far hasn't shown anything.
And what do you mean by spank 295's? If you're using two 285's you would, otherwise a 295 is still a faster than your overclocked single 285 by a considerable margin.
As stated above, my temps aren't exceeding 73c under the worst conditions and often remain in the low 60's for normal use gaming. Watercooling should bring that down to the high 30's or low 40's but I still doubt cooling is the issue with this volt mod simply because voltage can overcome heat to a certain point and I've seen ZERO results from this volt mod. I think there's something else holding it back that hasn't been realized yet. As stated by many others here, it's a bit strange that temps aren't going up at all with this volt mod either, which also leads me to believe the GPU isn't actually seeing the increased voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
We'll find out tomorrow though after I watercool my card. In the meantime I've removed the volt mods since they didn't do anything. I'll re-do them after I get my max OC numbers with a waterblock. If I'm wrong and the volt mods, I'll certainly come back and scream fantastic, but if they don't, I'll also report no gain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
NaplmV5, I apologize if I seemed ungrateful in that post. I am no way ungrateful for the effort you have put into this. And thank you for the hard work.
Same here and I've already stated once in this post that I appreciated the efforts that went into this thread. Negative results shouldn't be viewed as negativity but constructive criticsm to help find out why there aren't more positive results from this mod. I'm simply trying to say that maybe there's something else holding back this volt mod. Not sure how it got misconstrued any other way as I thought I was quite clear in my posts.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10acjed
However, maybe it's just that these cards aren't really limited by voltage as I've noticed that even with eVGA's recently released voltage tuner for the 260, 280 and 295 that many people aren't gaining anything either.
Did you actually measure vgpu and vram after and before modding? Generally there are cards out there not benefiting from volt mods whatsoever... but you will definitely see gains from switching to watercooling. I wonder why your temps are this low considering all the peeps claiming overheating cards or temps in the high 80s to low 90s when pushing those cards.
BTW, there were infos from the German (European) Subsidiary that all (most?!) of the vanilla cards should be already factory-modded to 1.2Vgpu... Wonder if this is the truth.
No, I didn't measure the voltage before and after, but I'm 100% certain I did it correctly as I've got an extensive electronics bakground.Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
Well, I can't speak for anyone else, but as I stated earlier in this thread, if I leave my fan set to auto, the GPU temps will rise to 85-86c before the fan reaches full speed in an attempt to bring temps back down but usually once they've reached that high, the stock cooler is only able to bring temps back down to 82-83c as I believe it's programmed to run as slow as possible without exceeding 85c so it's quite possible the fan isn't even reaching 100%. However, if I set the fan speed manually to 100% before I start a 3D app, temps never exceed low 60's in most games and apps, and will only reach 73c in Crysis.
I'm sure I'll gain a little OC room from the watercooling alone, but I'm just questioning whether these volt mods have any actual affect on these cards, with or without watercooling.
your welcome :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 10acjed
the response was towards Blkout
i got no control how you guys mod and all.. thats one.. mobo/psu is a big factor when it comes gpu vcore.. for ex. my giga ep45 extreme on which im testing the 285s.. the diff betweeen the default q9650s 3ghz and 4.5ghz oc is about .03 gpu vcore increase @ 4.5ghz.. the mobo ramps up the voltages all the voltages
psu v12 rail is also a factor
we are not all gonna get matching voltage some more some less
look man i dont need/want anyone to scream fantastic.. if it works for someone (MisterMagoo) great if it does not im sorry.. its out of my control.. only so much i can do/offerQuote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
if someone/anyone.. you want to scream no gain no problem just make sure your sure on that.. looks like your not..
if you got "extensive electronics bakground" then i should be applying your vmods to my 285 :)
come on.. we need 1.4vcore+
~1.5 would be nice :)
Sorry to offend. From here on, I won't post in this thread and I'll keep all mod and cooling results to myself. If everyone does the same, maybe we'll all learn nothing from each other. So much for constructive criticsm. :shrug:
NapalmV5....there are many here who appreciate your efforts, please continue.
:up:Quote:
NapalmV5....there are many here who appreciate your efforts, please continue.
+1 you're work is uber good...i got one card coming...
dont have nibitor 4.9 which supports 285Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
i wasnt sure its the ftw bios untill flash
its probably just the drivers.. didnt have time to check 181.22/182.05 on the ftw bios.. maybe ill do it later this morning
without the vid your not gonna get any higher clocks on stock coolingQuote:
Originally Posted by 10acjed
1.24v @ load ?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickless
you should be @ 1.3v load
lol i just deleted the pix of the recaps ive been doingQuote:
Originally Posted by ChinStrap
later today i should get the 1000uf 2.5v 4mohm esr kemet caps.. cant wait to getem on
but as for posting pic of that.. idk.. some will attempt (someone already has) the recap using different caps available to them and may get worse results than default clocks like i did at first..
the pic is not gonna look any diff than what i had up before.. the caps are exactly the same just diff values
ill think about it
no.2Quote:
Originally Posted by 10acjed
one no.2 got it down to 320ohm max the other got it down to 100ohm
1.24v load ?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickless
well sorry to offend you.. what have i been doing all this time..Quote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
how about before constructive criticism you actually proceed with the mods correctly/surely
anyone not getting 1.30v @ load from doing vid bridging and vdiff mod (step #1 and #2 @ guide) suggests a redo of the vmods until 1.3 is achieved
as for clock gains i cant guarantee anything there
my ssc was affected more from capping C561-4 than .03v increment
the amp on the other hand was affected more from higher vcore/than the caps further helped
Napalm no need to thank me mate, you have been doing all the work I have just put my 2c in here and there. I and I'm sure a few others do appreciate your work and time. Thank you.
I did see an increase in vgpu and vmem after doing the mods, and as a result in clocks, as I reported earlier in the thread. I measured at the measure points I showed earlier in the thread and also at the caps behind the gpu socket, and there is definitely a gain.
My card wouldn't run crysis at 1620 shader at stock voltage and auto fan, 1512 was max, but now with 1.24 vgpu it does 1620 no problem with temps hitting 86*C on a hot day with the fan on auto never going over 72% duty cycle.
Before the mods I could not run 756 core on auto fan in crysis for 30 seconds, now it lasts 5 mins before locking, its almost stable, with another 0.02v I think it would be totally stable. If I crank the fan up to 100%, I can run 756c/1656s/1512m in crysis no problems at all.
Guys as Napalm said, do not attempt things that are out of your ability level. Re-capping/adding caps is relatively high level as far as modding goes, and takes some good soldering skills, which Napalm and myself have. Also the caps characteristics need to be selected carefully, adding caps/coils & other components can have deleterious affects due to resonance and other factors.
youve helped me greatly and i appreciate itQuote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
if you got any idea youd like to try out.. im here ill try it on my 285s.. i got amp and ssc to sacrifice for whatever mods
edit: (d18 d15 d14) d18 increased 2d voltage to 1.22v (330 ohm vdiff resistor) but 3d voltage remained the same 1.33v
3d shouldve went up .10-.14v (that wud be ~1.47vcore) as well.. what u think its holding it back ?
updated guide to 1.39375vgpu max
before attempting any vcore mod please measure your current vcore
courtesy: CryptiK
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/w...surepoints.jpg
red:vgpu/green:vmem
step #1
- for better understanding please check dengyongs post #80 cryptiks post #112 and #118
- simple way to increase vcore from 1.15v reference
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/998/49555888ru5.jpg
1.26vcore @ load
step #2
- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8472/61141334nx3.jpg
1.29-1.33vcore @ load
step #3
- this step is more for the water/more xtreme cooling
- this point increases vcore according to the resistor in above pic ^
- solder a 150ohm resistor to ground from this red point
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9937/38313600hn4.jpg
1.36vcore @ load
2.20vmem @ load
so far ive gotten 1.38vcore
unfortuanately no matter how low the resistance gets @ step #2
all is limited to the reference voltage: 1.39375
past this voltage further mods are needed
thanks goes to Cryptik for all the help/confirmations
dengyong and everyone else contributing @ thread
Ok, I had read a few posts back that said the no.2 HB arent good for this and out of the 3 diff stores I stopped at, they all carried a vast array of HB no.2 pencils... I found a 6B no.2 lead refill pack that i picked up so I will probably use that....Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
:up:
the no.2 HB i got barely did anything
dont go below 200ohm.. if you can bring it down to 300ohm keep it there :up:
and with the vid bridging you should get ~1.3 @ load.. while 3D runs measure vgpu
I'm about to get a vanilla XFX GTX 285 and want to use "step 1" to get 1.26vcore @ load. The PCB layout should be the same on XFX as on the picture above, can anyone confirm that please?
Newegg has some good highres. pics of most of their cards, always a good place to checkQuote:
Originally Posted by tranceaddict
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowIm...d%20-%20Retail
1,3,11 look bridged the same as other vanilla cards.
Just one more question; in the above pic (2),(4),(12) are bridged in addition to the already vanilla bridged ones, but in post #118 it says to bridge (2), (4) & (5) in addition to the alreaddy bridged ones. I assume that the (2),(4),(12) + (already bridged 1,3,11) is the correct method?
that is correct. I dont think bridging 5 did anything. But I did 2/4/12 and got the desired voltage...Quote:
Originally Posted by tranceaddict
Do you think, that a fully stock GTX285 can do 850Mhz on the gpu? Without mods, aftermarket cooling, anything? Read a test on a site and the writer clamis it is true.
What are people using to connect the bridges? Can it be done with a small blob of solder?
Has to be a VERY tiny blob of solder then. I just looked at my card to confirm that. I am gonna try to connect them using silver ink and a hair of a brush to apply it.
I keep the alcohol and q-tip handy... i think i removed one of them 3 different times before i got it just right :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
if it can be done with ink rather than a solder, i always recommend the ink as you can remove it.... just my logic
So I did the mods today, bridged 2,4,12(in addition to 1,3,11) and penciled the resistor down to 300ohm, but dont think Im getting the results I should.
Core- 1.23v Load
Mem- 2.11 Load
The bridges look good, and measured the resistance 5x, so I know its not that. But I kinded jumped the gun and did them all at once instead of trying each at a time. Do you guys recommend starting over from scratch? Or any other ideas?
Quote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
something sounds wrong. I did all 3 resistors at once and got results. you should be seeing at least clocser to 1.28 - 1.29 with all that..
I would double check all the resistors. Are you using conductive ink?
Same here, I did the mods three times already, everything looks good, penciled the resistor down to 304ohm, but my vcore and vmem are the same like yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
^ sounds like vdiff is the only working mod and vid bridges dont make connection even though it looks like it makes dont mean it actually does
for those of you using silver ink:
anyone not getting 1.30v @ load from doing vid bridging and vdiff mod (step #1 and #2 @ guide) suggests a redo of the vid bridging mod until 1.3 is achieved
if you guys want accurate/actual results from these mods please dont use silver ink
i dont and i believe neither cryptik recommends it.. and do one step at a time that way you can move forward to the next step confidently
heres how i do it/done it..
- i cut a 2mm long lead from resistor/capacitor leftovers
- in one hand holding the tweezers holding the 2mm lead i place/hold it over the two points
- with the hot iron in the other hand i come over and kiss the 2mm lead just a smooch
thats it done!
and can easily be removed.. place tweezers over the bridge make sure you got a hold of it and just kiss it again with the hot iron and its gone
easy breezy :)
edit: since bridging # 2 is the most important one.. if you follow my bridging guide just do # 2.. if youre confident enough to go ahead with other bridging go right ahead.. but if not just do # 2
Yeah Im using an ink pen, which was packed in a box in my attic for 2 years :p: Im gonna pick up a new one, re-bridge 1 by 1 and see if that does it.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Ill have to try this if the ink doesnt work. Had no idea you could do that without solder.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Thanks again for all this info. NapalmV5, much appreciated! :up:
ya...u was right i also got this problem before i solder the bridge .Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
the conductive pen looks good but just dun work .
solder works like miracle.
i spend too much time on draw and cleaning and redo for ink pen.
i guess the solder spot was small ,even after solder can be easily redo without trace if RMA needed....
thkz 4 your hard work NapalmV5...
without these mods i won't buy my gtx285...it's sooo boring to own a unmodifiable card ....
I use Quick Grid repair compound from a rear window defogger. Worked like a charm, can remove with a q-tip..
And while I would recommend a solder point as well. My nervous hands made enough of a mess with the compound, i think i would have a molted blob of solder resombling a 285 if i tried it.... :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Thanks!
:up:
does any one knows how to enable SLI with 280 & 285?
i figured out i need to flash, i'm aiming the 285 bios into 280
can anyone give some tips here?
evga: ssc vs ftw
pcb: 4808 vs 5008
cooling: stock vs stock
actual clocks: 756/1764/1512 vs 799/1692/1494
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/7699/285dk6.pnghttp://img15.imageshack.us/img15/427/ftwls3.png
Those pcb number are looking more like week of manufacture of PCB's....4808 / 4908
Will be interesting to see if we get 0109 pcb soon :D
Have you got an FTW as well now ?
ahuh :D i got a bad hardware addiction
no cure/no rehad for this mofo!
thinking about doing mod #1 to my 285...core craps out at 750 which seems awfully low. My 280 did 770 and could have gone higher if it wasn't for the shader, which I'm pretty sure is thanks to the evga voltage tuner. I have a request though, could someone post a picture of the vids bridged so I know what it's supposed to look like? I've never done anything with a silver ink pen and don't want to :banana::banana::banana::banana: something up. If someone could post a pic asap I could go to radio shack immediately and do this within the next few hours and then test clocks later on tonight. Thanks in advance!
am i reading this right?Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
lower clocked ftw bios has higher score???
man o man
That's really weird... I actually thought Napalm messed up something with his writings and those pics. :D
When you push the shader clocks too high the score goes down in most benchmarks.
You've got to find the right balance to get the highest scores.
I redid the bridges today(this time with solder),removed the graphite off the resistor to start from scratch, and Im getting 1.21v with 2,4,12 bridged..............weird :p:
Removed and resoldered the bridges twice to make sure they were making good contact, and they looked good each time.
Gonna try again now, and maybe just bridge 2 alone to see what I get.
EDIT: Hmmm I just rebooted, and now Im getting 1.25v Core, 2.15v Mem :shrug: Is that what I should be at, or still a little low?
yap that's trueQuote:
Originally Posted by dengyong
Yep, that's the voltages you should get doing stage 1. Penciling the resistance of the smd down (stage 2) should give you a little more than 1.3V loaded while doing stage 3 could make you max out at 1.39V.Quote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
Thanks! I shaded down to 297ohm, and am getting 1.28v core\1.15v mem. Ill see what kind of clocks I get with these voltages, and if I see a good gain from 1.23\2.11 Ill shade it down a little more.Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
Thanks again for all your hard work Napalm & CryptiK, much appreciated! :up:
now it sounds like bridging mod works but not vdiffQuote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
i had the same thing happened to me yesterday after ive recapped my ssc.. i repenciled vdiff resistor and even though resistance was down where it should be i got undr 1.3vgpu @ load
vdiff mod since its pencil it can get unstable.. just have to pencil till you get ~1.30vgpu @ load
guys dont make it too hard on yourselves.. if you solder bridge and your getting 1.24-1.26vgpu @ load you are done with step 1.. you dont have to resolder.. go to step 2
ok.. youre on the right track now.. its not so much the resistance now.. you got the necessary resistance.. it has to do with how well the pencil works on the resistor.. just pencil over a bit more till the resistance works betterQuote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
your welcome and hope you get some extra mhz out of it :)
btw voltages @ load or bootup ?
bumpQuote:
Originally Posted by MurderCityDevil
Quote:
Originally Posted by MurderCityDevil
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=252Quote:
Originally Posted by MurderCityDevil
Anyone know if the 285 FTW bios has higher voltage ?
ohhhh....i think it finally make sense now...so you would be bridging the top and bottom portions like you would do for a pencil mod. for some reason i was thinking that when you guys said bridge #2, #4, #11, or whatever, you meant connecting for instance, 2 and 4 together with a trail of silver ink. that's why it seemed so wierd. so it should look like this, right >>Quote:
Originally Posted by dengyong
http://i42.tinypic.com/29da4is.jpg
edit: what do you mean by "hot iron"?
edit 2: in my image, i think it's the middle part that's raised instead of the outside, i dunno how these things look close up.
Does the FTW have the same VID layout as SSC from the factory ?Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
the FTW is just a better binned card...its then flashed with a BIOS that reflects the higher clocks of the FTW. The volt mod remains the same from the factory as the SSC cards.
:p:Is this confirmed Orangeblast....have you got one to compare ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangeblast
Hah, wish I had one, so I can't confirm this...its only what I hear....and knowing how the industry works with these products. I was in it not too long ago.
Yeah its workin great, Im using a 2HB pencil so took me a good while to get down to 297ohm. Im gonna shade it down a little more regardless of what clocks I get now, probably to around 1.32v max.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
At bootup I think it was at 1.23v, idle 1.08, and load 1.28v.Yeah all your doing is drawing a line between the two points, like shown in NapalmV5s guide........Quote:
Originally Posted by MurderCityDevil
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinStrap
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
Quote:
Originally Posted by dengyong
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHydes
thats not ssc bios vs ssc @ ftw bios.. ftw is my 3rd 285.. so thats ssc vs ftw
clock for clock: both same performance.. though the ftw can clock/sustain higher core
if above 1.26vcore @ load i can assure you vdiff mod is working :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
without vdiff the max allowed is 1.26v
yeh vdiff mod = 1.32-1.33v max
success! picked up a conductive ink pen at, of all places, awful microcenter (neither radioshack or even fry's even knew what I was talking about), and bridged 2/4/12 on my vanilla 285. Checking idle/load volts before resulted in voltages that seemed too high on stock - idle was 1.1-1.19 and load was 1.21. Bridging the first time resulted in a load temp of only 1.23. I figured there was poor contact so I redid it, and now, crazily enough, my load voltage is 1.28! vmem is 2.20. this is without any penciling mods. Is it possible that some cards just have higher voltages for some reason? Either way, 1.28 is very respectable without lowering any resistance. Thanks to napalmv5 and cryptik and everyone else who contributed! On to test my max clocks :)
edit: forgot to add, this was all done after flashing to a ftw bios. perhaps that's the reason I got such high results?
Well, tonight I'm going to go ahead an get this a try...
I'll show some results and stuff. If you don't hear from me, something bad happened. lol
EDIT: Okay, made the mod to just 1 of my SSC cards. 1/2/3/4/5/11 are now bridged, however to my dismay, I'm only getting around 1.228 volts...which is a bit far from the expected 1.26 :(
I hard modded it with solder and a tiny lead...
I noticed that some people did bridging on 1/2/3/4/11/12 ...is this what I should have done? Any when I solder it, should I run solder straight across to bridge it and get rid of my tiny lead?
can anyone confirm this?Quote:
Originally Posted by MurderCityDevil
Even with 1/2/3/4/5/11 i think you should still be getting around 1.25v. Doing 12 instead of 5 seems to be recommended by NapalmV5, but gives the same results.Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangeblast
I just bridged with solder, but using a lead as well shouldnt be a problem. It could be one of your bridges isnt making contact, so maybe try using your DMM and test the resistance between the bridges to see if you get a reading.
I doubt it, just because its been found softmodding through bios/software is a no go with the 285. Can you check the resistance to make its the same as ours at stock?Quote:
Originally Posted by MurderCityDevil
So I was playing around with clocks yesterday, and was wondering why I could run Furmark at 19x12 for 10min, but would black screen immediately when starting up RHDRIBL(defaults 640x480), and get artifacts while watching movies in WMP.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Heres what I figured out with my load voltages.........
WMP- 1.24v/2.13v
RTHDRIBL- 1.25v\2.13v
TF2- 1.26v\2.14-5v
Crysis- 1.26-7v\2.14v
FEAR2- 1.27\2.15v
Furmark- 1.28v\2.16v
So has anyone else noticed this, and is it normal? Not that big of a deal, just tune the resistance down to get the desired voltage while gaming, but kinda annoying when your stability testing.
Okay, well I was able to get the resistor down to 340 ohms...both of my SSCs.....and I went ahead and got rid of the leads and used conductive ink..so hopefully I get the full Voltage and hopefully get a boost.Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangeblast
I haven't tested this new setup yet, but from last night during my first test I did see a slight boost from 735/1656/2800 to 745/1656/2850...nice boost, temps were still good as well.
Once I get my Koolance water blocks, I should be seeing some great gains.
Have tested FTW bios on Vanilla now.. It worked fine in Vantage with def FTW clocks. Have never been able to run vantage at that shaderclock before (1620 on FTW) , But Crysis warhead keeps chrashing on me.
Yeah you'll def. see some good gains, these cards shine with some volts on water. Haven't tested thoroughly but went from 756/1584 stock volts to 810/1836 1.28v :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangeblast
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1082/...minfurmark.jpg
Okay I am having the same issues as some of you guys in that I have gone through all the steps and am getting only 1.26v under load. I have a XFX Black Edition and started out by using conductive ink for step 1, 2b pensil for step 2 and a 500ohm VR tuned down to 150ohm for step 3. After reading all the posts I removed the conductive ink for step 1 end replaced 2, 4 and 12 with tinned wire (thin wire). Another issue is that the SMR from step 2 starts out at 1.07kohms, that seems much higher then what it should be. Given that however I was able to pencil it down to 330ohm with my 2b. And i'm still only at 1.26v under load! What am I doing wrong? Please help!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingK76
Yup, this is EXACTLY what I'm experiencing as well. I've got the resistor down to 340 ohms......I've done the bridging on 4/5 along with the already 1/2/3/11 bridges.
I'm only getting 1.26 volts during furmark testing....
I can also confirm that I too am getting different voltages depending on what application I'm running....
During Vantage testing, I get around 1.24....during Furmark testing I get 1.26....
Wonder why its not consistent.
Any suggestions for us guy running in to the anomalies?
This question is for NapalmV5. I have followed your modding adventures with the GTX 285 in various forums and you have done many mods to your card (s?). My question is, have you tried your 3 step vmod method on a fresh card (one that you have done no other mods on)? The reason I ask is perhaps you have unlocked something along the way to allow you to hit 1.36v that is in tandem with the 3 steps you have shown all of us. Please don't take that the wrong way as I appreciate greatly the work you have done. Thank you.
Yea, its strange, almost seems like we missed a step or a step wasn't mentioned. I dunno......Quote:
Originally Posted by KingK76
I just saw this post....I'm only getting a max of 1.26V....and you mention that "without vdiff the max allowed is 1.26v"Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
so......what is the vdiff...I must be missing something here...
EDIT: nevermind, vdiff mod is the shading of the resistor..I'll try to get it lower. as explained by Napalm, don't go lower than 200ohms, currently I'm at 340...I'll try to get it down to 300 and retest to see if it makes a difference. If I hit 1.27 then I know I'm on to something.
I also pass Furmark @810/1836/1512 with 1.24 vcore, but I can't pass 3D06. I thought that Furmark is most stress test for video cards, but it turn out it isn't :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
Here is Vantage, Win7 x64, @783/1800/1512 - 1.24 vcore
EDIT: I measured load voltages while running different apps:Quote:
Originally Posted by G4h4o8s6T
Furmark 1.6.0 - 1.23-1.24v
Crysis - 1.23v
Crysis WH - 1.23v
Stalker CS - 1.23v
FEAR2 - 1.23v
FarCry 2 - 1.22-1.23v
Vantage - 1.23v
3D06 - 1.22-1.23v
If you read my post above on load voltages you'll see why it passes Furmark, but not 3D06. If you haven't measured load voltages while running different apps, then I suggest doing so, cause your most likely getting less volts at load when running 06 than other intensive apps., like Furmark.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickless
How much is tha max safe temp for 24/7 stock cooler use if i perform the ink mod that gives 1.26(core) and 2.15(ram) ?
Aside from Warhead, Furmark , 3dmark05/06 what other stability testing tools/methods should i consider?
I have a similar question - anyone know what the max safe voltage is for the 285? I would assume its less than what the voltage tuner gave for the 280 (1.3v) since a 55nm core is more sensitive to voltage?Quote:
Originally Posted by Demo
Is running 1.25 idle and 1.28 load 24/7 going to reduce the life of the card, or is this within limits? I may just go ahead and do the pencil mod to try and get 800 core.
This is very commonQuote:
Originally Posted by Orangeblast
every app has its high and low volt reading areas.some cards are more spikey then others too.
in genral when doing a volt mod make sure to read volts thuogh the whole benchmark app you use as to make sure your not hitting any ovp/ocp which would lead to blackscreens.
Does this give more vdimm to ?Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Its suppose to...bug...even after rebridging 4/5 it still didn't make a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fosco
the best I can do is 1.26 during furmark testing
I have some koolance blocks coming soon so hopefully...my clocks get better.