Sangrak, I just redid my S2E water setup, added a second RAD for more cooling.
See http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=747
Have an EK NB and SB acetel water blocks for the chipset leftover if you are interested.
Printable View
Sangrak, I just redid my S2E water setup, added a second RAD for more cooling.
See http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=747
Have an EK NB and SB acetel water blocks for the chipset leftover if you are interested.
Thanks for the offer, Trigger, but I've put my water cooling set up on hold atm. With the combination of work and taking care of our baby, I've found that I don't have the time right now to delve into a new hobby just yet.
I've solved my NB overheating problem by replacing the Thermalright HR-05 IFX NB cooler with a Noctua NC-U6.
The Thermalright is a good cooler, but the Noctua seems to be a bit more efficient, probably due to the dual heat pipes on it as opposed to the single one on the HR-05. It's, also, a bit more compact so I'm able to get a spot cooler closer to the sink. Attaching a fan to either sink was not an option because of space (my TRUE and the Patriot heat sinks get in the way.) NB temps went down by a whopping 6 degrees.
I really want that Bitspower NB/SB block though! Your set up looks awesome!
Congrats to you two guys! No time for overclocking -> send your stuff to Slim xD
Hey guys, haven't posted in a while. I am still unable to get anything above 3ghz stable. I am blaming heat. A 40mm fan won't cut it, temps get around 57 and upwards and the pc freezes.
Anyways, I am going to watercool it and see what I can get then. I am thinking of the following kit:
-Swiftech Apogee GTZ
-XSPC Single Bay Res
-Laing 18w or D5 vario pump, whatever is in stock or you guys reccomend.
-Thermochil PA120.3 radiator With Noctua 120mm fans on it.
-Some feser anti corrosion coolant
-3/8" tubing, 1/2" OD. Because I don't want to use the whit plastic adapters that came with the board, so might as well make the whole loop 3/8".
-Some anti kink coils
I am not going to cool gfx cards.
The loop order will be as follows:
Res>Pump>CPU>NB>Rad>Res.
However, my concern is with the NB temperatures. If I will be pumping 1.6v (or thereabouts) into the cpu, then my NB temps will also suffer right? The whole point of watercooling this board is to get NB temps down. Can I run NB before the CPU? How much of a difference would it make do you guys think?
Also, I am going to use the Fusion block on the mobo. This is my 1st watercooled attempt, and don't want to modify too much on the board.
Well, because it's a rough estimate of what I'll need for my overclock. I can just about get it stable at 3.6ghz with 1.58vcore. It's a bad chip I guess. When I get watercooling though, I can try to get the Q6600 faster or might even get a 45nm quad.
This chip needs 1.4vcore to reach 3.2ghz at the moment!
EDIT - Thanks for your response mate. Appreciate it!
I finally got my system stable with 8 GB, I had to buy a pair of these to match up with the same 4Gb sticks that I have.But it took too much voltage to get there. I might have to try to get the voltages down.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9157/prime95x64.th.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/7348/vantagep.th.jpg
The freaking FSB hole @1600 is killing me.
Nice tekjunkie 8GB is tough, looks like your NB and SB are getting really hot at 77c, amazing it went 8 hours in Prime.
I think you could come down on the CPU volts my Q9650 will do 4050mhz at 1.42(actual, 1.33 BIOS LLC enabled)...the trick for me to get 8GB stable in prime was 1.62v NB AND 2.06v MEM volts....more CPU volts was not helping me.
I hit a wall at 1840, Memtest 2 full passes, I can post and boot Vista at 4140mhz 1840FSB L&S but it's not prime95 stable. I have tried an ton of things but nothing is working...I think I have to find a magic CPU GTL combo.
What's weird is if I go even 1mhz above 1840 system will not post period, I tried a bazillon settings and never once got it to post above 1840.
tekjunkie,
Here's my Q9650 8GB volts/settings etc... maybe it'll help.
Edit..Hurrmm cpu-z says 1.44..it's been reading 1.42 for the last few days all of a sudden it's 1.44 weird. Have to try dropping down one in BIOS and re stress test.
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/desktop2.jpg
Your Q9650 is a better stepping(E0) than my QX9650(C0), hence your chip although multi locked would fair better @ higher FSBs/clocks.Also, I can't get this freaking thing to post @1600 RAM linked/synced for 400x9.5=same 3.8GHZ. I guess I would have to try harder. The wierd thing is I was one of the first ones with this board to do 4GHZ on my QX9650 with my 2GB GSkill BHZs(445x9), 12 hours prime stable with 1.375 Vcore with LLC, which I guess gives me 1.44 or thereabouts, on air.So my theory is that for core 2 quads, the way they have been architected(2 C2Ds stuck back to back), might have to do something with it(the more the RAM, the more Vcore it needs to be stable @the same speed). I could be wrong on this.
The voltage anomalies that you see if one of the main culprits of this board that leads to a lot of instablities. Guess what, just for the kicks, I rebooted with the same exact settings and ran prime again and it failed just after 2 hours on one of the cores, as it had dropped my vcore compared to the previous run of being 8 hours prime stable,with the same BIOS setting.It could be that the software that I am using that gives the vocre might be wrong,but I doubt and prime failing kinda confirms this. It's either the BIOS(software) or the PWM/power delivery(hardware).I was this close to tossing this board out and buying a good x48 board, so that I can swap my GTX 260 tri-sli to my Classified build and have the 4870x2+4890 crossfireX combo on the x48, but resisted it.The only reason that I am keeping this rig eventhough I am building an i7 rig is that I am planning to go water on my i7 build sometime and I wanted a high end backup gaming rig(air cooled) just in case something goes wrong(first time planning to go water and the thought itself scares the heck outta me).
Ok hopefully is not too late
People with 100% stable system. 100% stable while gaming (specially with L4D)
Could you please post your BIOS settings?
It's never too late Slim..here's where I'm at.
Q9650 @4100mhz 8GB Patriot BIOS 1202
20 Passes of IBT
6.5 hours of Prime95 custom min 4096 max 4096(this test is tough)
6 hours Prime95 blend
OCCT 1 hour
super_pi 32m
Gaming is no problem, crysis, battlestations pacfic, COD4
BIOS Settings
Extreme Tweaker
CPU Level Up = Auto
Memory Level Up = Auto
AI Overclock Tuner = Manual
CPU Multiplier = 9.0
FSB - Memory Clock Mode = Linked
FSB - Memory Ratio = Synced
FSB (QDR) MHz = 1822
MEM (DDR) MHz = 1822
LDT Frequency = 5x
PCIE Bus Slot 1 & 2 MHz = 100
PCIE Bus Slot 3 MHz = 100
SPP<->MCP Ref Clock, MHz = 200
SLI-Ready Memory = Disabled
Memory Timing Setting
P1 = Enabled
P2 = Enabled
tCL ( CAS Latency ) = 8
tRCD = 8
tRP = 8
tRAS = 22
Command Per Clock (CMD) = 2T
tRRD = 1
tRFC = 110
rest auto
Over Voltage
(= Bios/actual as reported Everest Ultimate 5.0)
CPU Voltage = 1.331v /(1.42v everest & CPUz)
Loadline Calibration = Enabled
CPU PLL Voltage = 1.54v
CPU VTT voltage =1.32v
Memory Voltage = 2.08v
NB Core Voltage = 1.62v
SB Core Voltage = 1.55v
CPU GTL REF0 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF1 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF2 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF3 Ratio = Auto
NB GTL REF Ratio = -10mv
DDR3 CHA1 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHB1 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHA2 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHB2 Ref Volt = Auto
CPU Configuration
CPU Internal Thermal Control = Enabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal = Disabled
Enhanced C1 (C1E) = Disabled while tweaking/Playing with this and C state for best power savings
CPU C STATE CAPABILITY = C4
Execute Disable Bit = Enabled
Virtualization Technology = Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep(tm) Tech. = Disabled while tweaking/Enable after stable
CPU Core 2 = Enabled
CPU Core 3 = Enabled
CPU Core 4 = Enabled
Spread Spectrum Control
CPU Spread Spectrum = Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum = Disabled
MCP PCIE Spread Spectrum = Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum = Disabled
LDT Spread Spectrum = Disabled
It's been pretty hot here lately, so I backed off my settings until I get around to water cooling. These are rock solid settings in 90 degree F weather, though.
Left4dead is awesome, btw. Need more maps, though.
CPU Multiplier = 9.0
FSB - Memory Clock Mode = Linked
FSB - Memory Ratio = Sync Mode
FSB (QDR) MHz = 1710
MEM (DDR) MHz = 1710
LDT Frequency = 5x
PCIE Bus Slot 1 & 2 MHz = 100
PCIE Bus Slot 3 MHz = 100
SPP<->MCP Ref Clock, MHz = Auto
SLI-Ready Memory = Disabled
Memory Timing Setting
P1 = Enabled
P2 = Enabled
tCL ( CAS Latency ) = 8
tRCD = 8
tRP = 8
tRAS = 22
Command Per Clock (CMD) = 2t
tRRD = 1
tRC = 31
tWR = 10
tWTR = Auto
tFAW = Auto
tRD = Auto
tRTP = Auto
tRFC = Auto
tREF = Auto
Over Voltage
CPU Voltage = 1.33750v
Loadline Calibration = Disabled
CPU PLL Voltage = Auto
CPU VTT voltage =1.26
Memory Voltage = 1.92
NB Core Voltage = 1.42
SB Core Voltage = 1.55v
On another note, how's the new baby going, Trigger?
Well for some reason my system is fully stable. However, after ~30mins of L4D it will freeze and I have to restart pressing the button. The first time is always ~30mins, 2nd time is always after ~1 hour.
Everything is stable but the game will just freeze. It never happened to me with Call of Duty 4 or WaW. Counter Strike also worked good. I have no idea...
Im on 1104 right now
Y'know, when L4D just came out, I was having freezing/sound loop problems with that game. It would be completely random. After 2 PSU's later, the numb skull I am, never checked the UPS that I had my system connected to. Turns out that the backup power supply went buh-bye. After I connected my system directly to the wall socket, the freezing went away.
Not sure if your problem is related to power to the gpu's, but the symptoms seem to be the same.
Well isnt a 750TX enough for my setup? q9450 and 2 8800GT? I think thats enough but I also want to change the PSU because is loud.
However, Im starting to think this might be related to RAM overheat. Im also thinking it might be the videocards but I have also ran furmark for 20 mins and no problems at all. Im trying to figure out what Im going to do right now :shrug:
If it's your RAM overheating try the Corsair triple channel fan cooler. It moves a lot of air, I stuck temp sensors to the heat sinks inside and out side and my 4 sticks together are 35c with a room temp of 26c. They were easily 4-5c higher with my old OCZ cooler on there.
I will see if I buy it. Its a high price for a memory fan. Hopefully is just RAM overheat...
Hey Slim, where are you at with your OC?
Haha
I think by the time I overclock my system you guys will be with Larrabee lol
I havent overclock in the last 8 months. I have my Sanyo Denki blowing full speed on my SB cause temps dont let me. I really want to get the money I need and finish my water cooling but, unfortunately I cant for now. Hopefully that day will come soon.
Hey Slim, Trigger, long time no talk, wow this thread is still kicking thats great. Im using a computer at Kmart, they have free internet, still dont have a computer, had to sell my striker :down: just wanted to see all you guys are doing, i hope well, hopefully soon i will have a computer again, good luck :D
right now im just trying to stay alive, and not end up in the streets:mad:. Glad to see this thread still alive.
Trying to put another Striker II Extreme together. Its been awhile since I messed with a Striker motherboard. I keeping getting the DET DRAM error message. Does anyone recall where to look to resolve this error. :shrug:
My main machine, also a Striker II Extreme has been so rock solid I have not messed with it in a long time. Recall the trouble getting a stable overclock but once stable it has been an excellent machine.:up::up::)
Thanks to all who respond
Patrick
I still want to finish my watercooling and see if I can get your overclock achieved some time ago. It was really impressive man. I hope things get better for you over there. Like always, you can come anytime if you decide to buy an S2E again so we can discuss anything related to it. I wont be changing system anyime soon neither so Ill be here glad to listen :D
A guy from the asus forums just had the same issue. To solve it he removed the battery for some time and that did the trick. You can also try reseting the CMOS in the back and trying to boot with only 1 RAM stick. Hope this helps.
Thanks Slim142, I tried the CMOS but I will try to remove the battery next.:rolleyes:
Taking the battery out did not work, tomorrow I will remove the motherboard and start over, possibly in another case (more room).
I have tried three sets of RAM, one stick or two sticks at a time. This motherboard was running just fine a month ago on a test bench. I am just going to take it a part and start over again. Sometimes it is easier to start over then to spend all that time troubleshooting.
Thanks
Patrick
Try playing around with the CMOS button, CMOS battery and power cord. Also, try this with one RAM stick. If it doesnt work, check LCD doesnt say DET DRAM, sometimes it means the RAM is defective.
Unplug the power cord (the one from wall to PSU)
take out the battery
reset CMOS
leave for some time (10 mins maybe?)
put battery back
put power cord back
This is what usually worked for me for my first striker (which was the devil of not booting). Those three things usually make the magic happen.
Still no boot.:down::down: Given the trouble it is to get one of these motherboards stable let along overclocked I am not sure I am willing want to put in the time needed to solve this problem. I still love my up and running Striker II Extreme but I am thinking I will just get an Intel motherboard and say good bye to my second Striker II Extreme.:cool:
I know this has nothing to do with the thread but I just got my 2 D-Tek Fuzion GFX 2 blocks which is a step closer to my water cooling. There is currently only 1 available on their website so if you need it, grab it before is gone.
The motherboard was previously running on my test bed for several months then put in storage for a month or two and then install in my second machine. It just would not complete the boot process. Thanks for thinking about my problem. I have since move to another motherboard and hope to have it up and running this weekend.
If you are not using the exact same config/harware you had when you put it in storage and it was OC'd. I'd try pulling the battery and jumping it clear between now and when you bring it back out of storage. Alternatively IDE opt drives and Hard Drives that are failing or toast are notorious for stalling a boot.
Hey guys,
Haven't been on these forums for a bit, so I decided to drop by to see how you all are doing? ;)
I managed to build another system with the spare board I had. This board performs differently than my first board. 1800 FSB seemed to be unattainable with my previous settings (8 gigs of ram,) so I went with settings similar to yours, Trigger.
Worked like a charm. :D
With this board, I had to enable Loadline calibration, setting my cpu voltage to 1.30. This, essentially, overvolted to 1.36v in windows and doesn't drop even under full load. Had to set the NB GTL ref to -08mv (kudos to Rodriguez.)
My other board hated loadline being enabled, but this board doesn't. :shrug:
Here are my settings, at any rate:
CPU Level Up = Auto
Memory Level Up = Auto
AI Overclock Tuner = Manual
CPU Multiplier = 9.0
FSB - Memory Clock Mode = Linked
FSB - Memory Ratio = Sync Mode
FSB (QDR) MHz = 1800
MEM (DDR) MHz = 1800
LDT Frequency = 5x
PCIE Bus Slot 1 & 2 MHz = 100
PCIE Bus Slot 3 MHz = 100
SPP<->MCP Ref Clock, MHz = Auto
SLI-Ready Memory = Disabled
Memory Timing Setting
P1 = Enabled
P2 = Enabled
tCL ( CAS Latency ) = 8
tRCD = 8
tRP = 8
tRAS = 22
Command Per Clock (CMD) = 2t
tRRD = 1
tRC = 46
tWR = 10
tWTR = Auto (19)
tFAW = Auto (35)
tRD = Auto (10)
tRTP = Auto (7)
tRFC = Auto (98)
tREF = Auto (7.8uS)
Over Voltage
CPU Voltage = 1.3000v (1.36)
Loadline Calibration = Enabled
CPU PLL Voltage = Auto (1.57)
CPU VTT voltage =1.28 (1.34)
Memory Voltage = 1.92 (2.00)
NB Core Voltage = 1.46 (1.50)
SB Core Voltage = 1.55v (1.58)
CPU GTL REF0 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF1 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF2 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF3 Ratio = Auto
NB GTL REF Ratio = -8mv
DDR3 CHA1 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHB1 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHA2 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHB2 Ref Volt = Auto
CPU Configuration
CPU Internal Thermal Control = Enabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal = Disabled
Enhanced C1 (C1E) = Disabled
Execute Disable Bit = Enabled
Virtualization Technology = Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep(tm) Disabled
CPU Core 2 = Enabled
CPU Core 3 = Enabled
CPU Core 4 = Enabled
Spread Spectrum Control
CPU Spread Spectrum = Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum = Disabled
MCP PCIE Spread Spectrum = Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum = Disabled
LDT Spread Spectrum = Disabled
Hope everyone is doing well.
Edit: Left 4 Dead just froze and BSOD'd. Temps seem fine. Gonna up the NB a notch. Prime stable, though.
Edit 2: Bumping up The SB a notch and changing the tRC to 46 appears to have done the trick. Ran Prime all night without a hitch. So far no freezes in Left 4 dead.
Striker II Extreme BIOS Version 1203
Changelog: Unavailable/unknown
---Use at your own risk---
If you install this BIOS, please share your experience and any problems you find. Thanks
File uploaded to my personal RS account
http://rapidshare.com/files/259754580/1203.BIN
That sounds exactly like what I wrote yesterday night :ROTF:
Hope you guys enjoy it
well...bios 1203 ! good news..
How are the feedback about this bios ? any people tried it ?
Just want to know before flashing.
Hate to sound like a teeny-bopper but OH MY GOD! I almost had a heart attack today when I saw a new BIOS for SIIE. I thought they'd given up on us. So here's my experience. I installed the bios, rebooted and....
BLACK SCREEN, NO POST. :rofl: First time for everything. I called up ASUS and got through right away.:shocked: That never happens, anywho, the guy had me remove power, pull the battery, and flip the bios reset switch to the right. I was told to leave it there for 15-20 seconds... A wierd thing happened, the system was zero power for about 15 seconds when all the lights on the motherboard flashed for a second and then dropped.... must have been the stored charge... put back in the battery, flipped the switch to the left, applied power and.... YAY!!!!!! :up:
Now as far as performance... This is a godsend! I'm running SIIE with QX9770 and OCZ3RPR16004GK ram, I've alway had trouble keeping the system stable and lately even more so. I bought another 4 gigs and tried going to 8... no beans, so I went back to 4 and my system would stay stable for about an hour before black screen and looped audio crashing. I am happy to report that I have been gaming for 5 hours straight since the BIOS update and have experienced NO issues!
BRAVO Asus!
Hi ioamnesia
Here is the official 1203 S2E bios topic from Asus website :
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...age=1&count=31
Before i decide to flash my board to this new bios (need to mount it into the case), can you give us some data ? first, how is the +3.3v value w/ 1203 ?
Many people report bad values (+3.21 <-> +3.28) signal with older bios, even 1202.
About vcore... what values are in bios/cpuz ? with or without loadline calibration ?
this bios seems to be better than other about stability and voltage...i hope ! but we need more feedback to be sure.. i always got issue with this board, even with good and different settings, different ram modules...
[edit] i never use the dangerous windows asus flash utility: i killed my bios and like you, i used the manufacturer recover steps. Now i use the specific awdflash with a boot cd in dos mode... i never had prb. NEVER flash a bios with an OC cpu because you re not sure about stability. use setup default to do it safe.
Just flashed 1203...Everest reports +3.3v: 3.23-3.25.
1202 would stay put at 3.25v
CPU vcore no difference for me. 1.36 bios = 1.42-1.44 actual.
Can't speak to stability yet need time to test. Hoping I can bring down my mem volts and remain stable running at 2.08 currently
Glad to hear no bad reviews so far. More comments would be excellent!
Now that you've brought that to my attention, I have the same outcome with the +3.3v value: Everest is reporting 3.23v, where 1202 would place it at 3.25v.
Vcore is the same in bios and Everest: 1.36. Vcore still seems to fluctuate from boot to boot sometimes, ranging +/- 0.02v. Doesn't seem to affect stability.
ok guys... well i note some difference with your vcore values...
that s strange :
Trigger5521 write "1.36 bios = 1.42-1.44 actual." and Sangrak write "Vcore is the same in bios and Everest: 1.36. Vcore still seems to fluctuate from boot to boot sometimes, ranging +/- 0.02v."
do you have loadline calibration enabled ?
i always report vcore difference with 1202 and older... but Sangrak, i m very interested by your 1203 settings because you got nice vcore stability bios/everest...Trigger5521 not ;(
I've got my vcore set in the bios at 1.3000v with Loadline calibration enabled.
Edit: Whoops, my sig is old. Currently, I'm running at 1780 and not 1800. Here are my settings at any rate:
CPU Level Up = Auto
Memory Level Up = Auto
AI Overclock Tuner = Manual
CPU Multiplier = 9.0
FSB - Memory Clock Mode = Linked
FSB - Memory Ratio = Sync Mode
FSB (QDR) MHz = 1780
MEM (DDR) MHz = 1780
LDT Frequency = 5x
PCIE Bus Slot 1 & 2 MHz = 100
PCIE Bus Slot 3 MHz = 100
SPP<->MCP Ref Clock, MHz = Auto
SLI-Ready Memory = Disabled
Memory Timing Setting
P1 = Enabled
P2 = Enabled
tCL ( CAS Latency ) = 8
tRCD = 8
tRP = 8
tRAS = 22
Command Per Clock (CMD) = 2t
tRRD = 1
tRC = 46
tWR = 10
tWTR = Auto (19)
tFAW = Auto (35)
tRD = Auto (10)
tRTP = Auto (7)
tRFC = Auto (98)
tREF = Auto (7.8uS)
Over Voltage
CPU Voltage = 1.3000v
Loadline Calibration = Enabled
CPU PLL Voltage = Auto (1.57)
CPU VTT voltage =1.28 (1.34)
Memory Voltage = 1.92 (2.00)
NB Core Voltage = 1.44 (1.50)
SB Core Voltage = 1.55v (1.58)
CPU GTL REF0 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF1 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF2 Ratio = Auto
CPU GTL REF3 Ratio = Auto
NB GTL REF Ratio = -06mv
DDR3 CHA1 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHB1 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHA2 Ref Volt = Auto
DDR3 CHB2 Ref Volt = Auto
CPU Configuration
CPU Internal Thermal Control = Enabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal = Disabled
Enhanced C1 (C1E) = Disabled
Execute Disable Bit = Enabled
Virtualization Technology = Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep(tm) Disabled
CPU Core 2 = Enabled
CPU Core 3 = Enabled
CPU Core 4 = Enabled
Spread Spectrum Control
CPU Spread Spectrum = Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum = Disabled
MCP PCIE Spread Spectrum = Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum = Disabled
LDT Spread Spectrum = Disabled
Wow sangrak u using a CRT screen? Pretty impresing :D
I just re-read my post about my vcore and it may be confusing.
When I stated that the bios reports my vcore the same as it does in Everest, I'm referring to the Hardware Monitor/Voltage section in the bios and not the actual value I input in the settings.
Yeah, the size is the biggest downfall of having a crt still. This monitor is MASSIVE. It weighs about 150 lbs, literally. Luckily, my desk is equally as massive, so I don't really notice the size.
I had bought a Samsung 245T earlier this year to replace it, but the color saturation was way too extreme. calibrating it to my Cintiq was next to impossible, so i returned it.
If I can find a 120hz lcd that can match the picture quality of this monitor, I'm sure I'd finally lay this thing to rest. So far I haven't seen one I like yet. Have any suggestions?
Have you tried the Samsung 120Hz 3D LCD screen?
There is also the viewsonic, but I dont recommend it.
Well some feedback from me on the 1203 bios.
I have been running it for a few days now (I think I made the change last Friday\Saturday) and the great thing is that I am now running 8gb of ram without apparent issue. Admittedly I needed to reduce the memory down to 1066 rather than 1333 but it's been stable ever since. I did have one issue where the memory timings didn't stay on reboot (it went back down to 1times rather than 2times in the bios) but since that initial error I haven't had a problem.
Temperature wise, the cpu is running a tad warm atm (42 - 44 at idle) but that's more to do with warm ambiant temps (muggy nights) and the fact that I hadn't run Precision to increase the 295's fan speed up from default to 65%.
Gaming has been smooth (no BSOD's) and over all usage of the pc hasn't resulted in anything unusual. I did this on a fresh install of Vista64 SP2 (for some reason Win7 was really syrupy.. very sluggish and unresponsive).
With regards to monitors, I use a BenQ FP241WS which is really very good, I purchased the Samsung 2233 120hz monitor and the Nvidia glasses, both of which lasted a week before I sold them on, I really missed 1920x1200 too much (and was actually getting a headache playing with 3d enabled).
Interesting feedback...you should be able to get your 8GB up past 1333, trick is you need plently on NB volts and mem volts. That was my experience with 8GB anyways.
Try starting NB at 1.4 and work upto 1.6 if nessessary. For mem I'd start at 2.0v and go as high as 2.08 but make sure you have a mem fan to keep them cool. All 4 slots filled causes the ram to get pretty hot hot
If you get inestability, try 1.90 (In BIOS).
If not, 1.92.
For 1333mhz, I think 1.92 should be more then enough. Since that would equal 1.98 (1.96 with drops).
I ran 4 x 1 GB sticks of OCZ Gold 1333 when this board first came out. Never could get it stable past FSB 1500.
When it first came out? If it was before 0901, then it must have been a true nightmare
Moved up from a Q6600 G0 + P5n32-E SLI
Current Rig:
Striker II Extreme 790i Ultra
Intel Q9650 / VID 1.25 / Revision E0 / Arctic Freezer Pro 7 / OCZ Freeze
2* 2GB DDR3 OCZ FLEX EX PC3-16000 2000MHZ
Thermaltake 750W Modular
MSI 280GTX (Factory OC)
Antec 900
I've currently got the CPU sitting at 3.6Ghz (400*9). This is linked and synced with the RAM at 1600Mhz (7-7-7-24-2T 2.0v) and working flawlessly. What I am trying to do is get the RAM to run at it's rated speed. No matter what I do I cannot get the system to boot if the RAM is set at 2000mhz. This was on BIOS 1106. I've since flashed to 1203 but still no go. Can I actually get the RAM to run at 2000MHZ or is that just marketing gibberish on Asus' part?!
The manufacturer timings state 8-8-8-30 at 2000mhz at 2.0v, but could these be improved? I've got a couple of Antec spotcools, one pointed at the ram, the other towards the SB to help cooling. I've tried the RAM in A1/B1 and A2/B2. Here are some brief voltage settings i've got:
CPU: 1.2625-->1.3
Mem: 2.10
NB: 1.40-->1.46
SB: 1.50-->1.55
I've bumped up CPU/NB/SB and tried to experiment to see if I can boot but it always freezes on the LCD poster saying 'DET DRAM'. I've had trouble with OCZ and Asus before so I even tried some Patriot Viper 2000MHz RAM. Same here it was no go. Works no problems at 1600MHz even if I tighten the timings from standard, but will not POST at 2000MHz. Should I have just bought 1600MHz RAM and saved the money? Or is my board a bit weak? Any help appreciated guys.
You are giving the NB a lot of stress with OC quad and 2k memory. I wouldnt be surprised if u needed more NB voltage.
hi thanks. ho wmuch would you say 1.50V? Also my temps for NB/SB seem to be quite high. Coming from the 680i I thought there was supposed to be a drastic drop. Curently the ambient temp is 21 degrees celcius and it's quite muggy. NB is 55 degrees, SB is 59 degrees. I've even got a spotcool pointed at the SB but it's not doing much it seems.....
Yeah I have to agree the stock cooling is pretty bad once you pass certain voltages. Maybe you could change the thermal paste and see if it improves (if you havent done so), but after market cooling would be way better (the reason why Im planning to put water on them).
Yes, definitely 1.50 or more required for what you are asking. If by 1.60 (real) is not stable, then just leave it on what the motherboard will allow you to. Sometimes its the motherboard other times is the RAM, but from what you are writing, thats a lot of stress and I would say its definitely the motherboard that will be holding you back.
If you want to check, do a quick run at 1.52-1.54v on the NB (dont stress it), just see if you boot. If you do, that means you might be able to achieve those high clocks with good cooling.
Thanks will give it a whirl tomorrow and report back.
I cannot post with RAM @ rated speed of 2000mhz linked and synced either...I believe I'm CPU limited there. Highest I can post L&S is 1860...but it's not stable.
It maybe possible with only one stick installed but I never tried as I have no intention of running Vista 64 with 2gb of RAM :)
Note: I'm under water. 8GB takes the following with my board
NB=1.62 (-0.08 NB gtl)
SB=1.55
CPU=1.34(Bios) 1.42 Everest :O
RAM=2.06
Hey guys!
I've been a proud S2E owner for a while now and an avid reader of these forums also.
Now, I'm posting here today, cause I need help to solve an issue that's been driving me nuts and that I can't seem to get pass thru.
My setup is an S2E obviously, a C2D E8600 E0, 4 gigs of Dominator XMS31600C7DHX. On top of that, 2 BFG GTX 285 OCX SLI, Creative XFI Fatal1ty PRO and I recently removed for testing purposes a third card, an EVGA 8800 GTX KO ACS3 that was processing physx.
My setup is watercooled with swiftech apex ultra kit, cooling the NB and the CPU with a Swiftech GTZ WB.
Ok, I had my setup 100% stable with this settings:
Lync & Sync'ed with 1700 Mhz
RAM 7 7 7 20 2T at 1.9V
CPU: 1.25 V on BIOS LLC ENABLED
NB: 1.3 V BIOS
SB: AUTO
PLL: AUTO
VTT: 1.2 V
working like a charm!
So I went further
4.5 Ghz
FSB 1800 Mhz Unlinked
RAM at 1680 Mhz
7 7 7 20 1T at 1.9V
CPU: 1.375 V on BIOS LLC ENABLED
NB: 1.3 V BIOS
SB: AUTO
PLL: AUTO
VTT: 1.2 V
I think I'm really close to get it 100% stable, right now got Prime running in the background with small FFT's, an hour gone by an lookin' good!
Had some problems here in the past, cause at the beggining it was fine and dandy at 1.3687 Vcore LLC enabled (orthos large FFT's mixed test for more than 2 hours), but after some time, that didn't do it, so I had to put it up a notch.
Now looks good, seems to do the work.
I noticed that if I go up with the NB or the VTT or both, is unstable, but most people needs much more voltage to get it to work, mine is fine at those settings.
Well, now, I wanna go further, my goal would be 4.72 Ghz (FSB 1889 Mhz) and ram at 1700 Mhz 7 7 7 20 2T unlinked. But, it's just imposssible! I mean, I tryed everything for the last 4 months and I can't get it!
Soon as I go over 1800Mhz, tests fail. I tryed to set it at 1842 Mhz, to get 1700 Mhz on ram (wanna round number there) but nothing, even less that that, no matter what, nothing works over 1800Mhz
I know u must be thinking, Dude! that's more than enough, leave it there! but u know how that is, I wanna squeeze it till the last Megahert
So, any advice, setting, question or answer u may have or some way to enlight me, it would be more than welcome!
I tryed Lots of NB over 1.6, lots of VTT 1.36V, even 1.5 Vcore for a little period of time but nothing, no matter what.
Also tryed every BIOS available, the best for me is 0901, and that's what I have currently set up.
So, there it is, sorry for such a long post, but I run out of ideas
Thx in advanced!
Franco
Have you tried more ram voltage, cause your sticks might not be getting enough power.
Also, keep it at 2T, you will get more stability.
Remember some times too much voltage = inestability. I would say your NB might need between 1.4-1.56
Hi Slim!
Thx for your reply. I'll try that ASAP and let you know how that came up.
I never touched the ram voltage cause I thought that if it works at those settings before, it should work now too. But like u mentioned, that might be exactly the problem, I mean, I messed around with everything else, except the RAM voltage.
Thx again, I'll be back soon
Update.
Unfortunately that didn't do it. Still unstable. Anything over 1800MHZ FSB fails.
I posted all my settings for 8GB's at 1800 FSB in this thread a few months back...give them a whirl.
This board is tricky. I found if I increased NB for example my previous stable CPU voltage needed to be increased. There is a magic combo for your board cpu and ram combo, but don't get stuck thinking one voltage change is going to cut it.
Is heat an issue?..RAM will spit errors if it gets too hot, tape one of the temp sensors that came in the MB box to the RAM's heat sink. Better yet get a corsair triple channel RAM fan.
This may help as well... Post #11 in this thread http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223177
helped me alot.
Good luck let us know.
Dam Trigger thanks for that post. Now I know how to stress my system and finally get it stable. No wonder L4D failed the other day I was playing it (yes AGAIN)
There is SO much expertise and knowledge in these forums it's crazy..I stumbled on that info but as I said it really helped me. Knowing which voltage to change for which type of error is really hard to find info...I think most overclockers just do trial and error.
Hi Trigger, thx so much for that info. I'll get into it later (installing 7 right now)
Heat on the ram is not an issue, I gotta dominator fan blowing right into them.
I wanna squeeze that CPU to 4.72Ghz! I'll be back later to let u know how it came up the testing
That thread is a good find, Trigger. According to that post, It seems my vtt/vdimm ratio was off. I ticked the vtt down a notch and have prime running at 1 hour 10 minutes so far.
Are you running prime with min/max mem at 4096 or for the whole 8 gigs? Right now I have prime set to what was in that post (4096.)
Hey Trigger
For prime95, should I put 4096 for min/max right?
What about for Memory to use (in MB)? 1600?
Time to run leave in 15mins right?
Oh ok I see
Im going to test that after Im done with "regular" 10-12 hour test.
For some reason, I need more NB voltage (with Diablo D9GTS) than with my previous G.Skill D9JNL. I used to need 1.38v, now I need ~1.50
Anyways, 1203 doesnt look that bad. Im still in the process of achieving stability, but Im pretty sure Im almost there. Back to 3.6Ghz!!!. Once I get this stable, I will go for my water stuff and go for the magic 1800 Linked :D
I had a similar experience when I moved from OCZ Gold sticks to Vipers. I only needed 1.32v on the OCZ, but never could get past 1500 with them. The vipers required 1.40+ at the same speed.
Nice to see you're starting to OC the board again.:up:
On another note, I'm getting odd behavior with Superfetch in Vista 64. I changed my logitech and nvidia drivers the other day. Now Superfetch is alot more active and accessing the hard drive for much longer when I get to my desktop. My stability isn't affected at all (ran Prime, OCCT, and burn without issue), but it's kinda annoying seeing the hard drive light on for so much longer. I fell back to the older drivers but it's still doing it. Dunno how to stop it other than turning off Superfetch all together. Have any of you ever experienced that?
I guess the RAM ICs make a lot of difference.
If I was you, I wouldnt be touching the nvidia drivers. Me for example, if I know I will NOT have time to uninstall/drive sweeper 2.0.5/restart/drive sweeper/install, then I prefer not to mess with them.
Also, whenever a new WHQL comes out, I like to wait a little to see if there is going to be a new revision (190.36->190.64 or something like that)
But most importantly, DO NOT mess with your nForce drivers, NEVER!.
I have had nightmares with it before. If you have the lastest version and is working, there is absolutely no reason to upgrade. Trust me, nforce becoming a pain in the @ss when it comes to upgrading/reinstalling.
I cant really help here since I dont have Vista but when those weird things happen you can try a complete reinstall and by this I mean uninstall your logitech, nforce, geforce (and anything you touched before the problem), use drive sweeper before/after restarting. Then use CCleaner to clean your registry and start again. If that doesnt fix it, I would say a clean install would be the best option (or go for an SSD and forget about that :D)
UPDATE: Btw, Prime95 25.11 Build 2 ran for 12 hours yesterday/today. If anybody needs my settings I will gladly post them. Im back to 3.6Ghz :D
Most of my issues early on with this board were caused by nforce drivers, namely the IDE driver, so I hear you. They were pretty bad when this board came out. Old nforce IDE drivers and even the new ones, have a bad habit of still working in the background even with newer versions installed. I suspect that was the cause for alot of peoples problems with the Striker II.
The only time I usually change my drivers is to solve a problem with a game or something. 190.36 was working fine, but I impulsively installed 190.64 and installed new logitech set point drivers for no reason:-P Everything works well, it's just that Superfetch is alot more active now for some unknown reason. Just thought maybe someone has experienced this before. Gonna switch to windows 7 soon anyways.
I use Driver Cleaner after uninstalling any drivers. Works pretty well I think. Which means: it's never screwed anything up. :rolleyes:
What are your temps like with stock cooling?
I wouldnt worry about superfetch that much then. I hope you are going for an SSD soon too. I have heard so much good stuff about them I just want one NOW :cool:
Driver Cleaner, havent heard about it but IMO driver sweeper its really good and has worked fine for me everytime I have used it.
NB: ~50 SB:~55 CPU idle: 48-49 CPU load: 68
Yes my system gets pretty hot (stock cooling with MX-2) and it would be hell if it wasnt for the Sanyo Denkis I have. Those NB/SB temps are after running Memtest for 10 hours so they are actually pretty lower during idle.
Since I have reached limit, I have to wait for water cooling to keep pushing but so far. Im really happy with 1203 and the board which seems to be working nicely and better than with 0901 (at least so far).