Thanks for the update! Only Performance is receiving a shipment, or are they being sent to the others who previously carried them as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
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Thanks for the update! Only Performance is receiving a shipment, or are they being sent to the others who previously carried them as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Moddersmart will have stock Thursday. They have a few with the extra port now.
As far as I know, Performance got 50 of the Pumped ones, and 50 of the non pumped 8 port reservoir version. I think Primo is just going down their list of who ordered when and filling each as they have parts to ship. Not for sure though.
Thanks again for the update!
Just spent all night reading this thread from start to finish!
Just designing myself a new system, which will go into a MM Ascension case, everything is sorted except for the front panel, the style of which hinges on how I will change my loops and their requirements.
Currently I run 2 separate loops.
#1 Micro res -> 655 -> 360 Fessler -> HK 3.0 (i7 975) ->BP VREG ->BP NB
Planning on adding a Fessler 240 between HK 3.0 & VREG n 1/2"
#2 Micro res -> 655-B -> 240 Fessler -> 2x285 GTW (Original) with EVGA HC blocks on 3/8"
Planning on upgrading to 360 Fessler
I have my rads with shrouds in a pull config. I have the EK tops on both my pumps.
The T3 looks and sounds good, but with this set-up would I be better with 2 rather than just one?
Heat is a big issue for me, I live in S. Florida so anything to drop my temps is a plus!
Fluid is something that is worrying me, I used to use Primochill, but I added one of their dye bombs and it clogged up my system, it separated from the fluid and basically sent a 360 rad to the trash. I've used Fessler ever since.
Currently I am considering the T3, changing pumps and going with the XSPC dual or getting the EK res's with the waterfall.
Unless I am mistaken, the T3 seems to improve flow rate, but how much - if at all - does it improve temps?
It will probably not improve temps, but may not hurt them either, at least in my setup that was the result. The new XSPC top is a true dual loop configuration with two pumps and two separate chambers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
Well, the micro rezes would be gone from the loops with eiter solution so scratch them.
So, after the upgrades you would have a PAIR of 360's and a 240? Unless they are for aesthetics in a mod, seems overkill (not that overkill isn't usually the BEST kill =) to me. I am in WAY South Texas, officially a sub tropic so we have the same weather.
Whether or not more flow will help will largely depend on how you configure the loops. Not the answer you want I know. Keeping in mind I have at least a perceived bias towards the T3, it seems like the extra flow would benefit you if you do use all the radiators you mentioned because radiators like the extra flow.
If the XSPC dual is acrylic or polycarbonate it will also have issues with the ethylene glycol in any fluids.
Maybe Skinnee or Vapor could advise you better on the actual flow rates you could expect with the parts you listed.
Are you o/c'ing the cpu or the gpu's?
I want to get the Typhoon III but have a question.
Since I have a faceplate covering my drive bays, can I move the reservoir towards the inside of the case more? I know I won't be able to see it from the front, but I can still see it through the case side window.
I also understand I may have to drill some holes to mount in the drive bays to seat it further back?
Thanks.
Planning on taking the 240 from the video card loop and adding it to the CPU/NB loop and getting another 360 for the VC loop. So a total of 3 rads.
When I aded the VREG/NB blocks I saw a 1 - 2 degree increase at idle temps, so thought is adding a 240 there will help bring them down.
Run at 4Ghz 24/7 and am looking at 47 degrees at idle on CPU loop. Same on VC but it goes up to around 60 with anythng much of a load. Only OC the VC's when I am benching.
If I do go with the T3, will I need one or 2 units with this set-up?
Yes you can slide it back behind a face plate. There are custom machined aluminum face plates for the T3 also that will be available in a few weeks. You can check back a page or two for some pictures.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
I do believe one would be enough if you laid out the loops optimally. What that lay out would be for your particular set up might take a bit of experimenting--which it does not sound like you are shy about doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
Utnorris replaced a two pump dual loop system with a single pump T3 and his temperatures held at what they were previously, without the second pump. He added another rad when he switched out to the single D5 T3 which no doubt helped, but he still ended up with less total radiator then your looking at.
From a total possible cost perspective (does not seem like cost is something your shy about either but it IS a consideration) I think it breaks down best depending on what pumps you have now.
one T3 and one D5 or the worst case 2 T3's and 2 D5's
vs
one XSPC Dual and 2 DDC's or worst case 2 XSPC Duals and 4 DDC's
Go with what you have "in stock"
What deters me from putting everything on just one loop is the amount of heat the vc loop puts out. I am running 2 x EVGA 285 FTW's, I run 24/7 at factory clock of 720, when benching have had them over 800. If I am in a gaming mood and play all day they can easily reach 60 degrees +.
Room temps can get into low 80's when hubby's machine is on also, so I have to look at getting maximum cooling.
Having already got 2 x D5's cost wise the T3 is definately the way to go! Guess best way is to buy one and just see how it goes in various different configurations.
If I do combine both loops, has anyone tried with different diameter tubes? One loop is 1/2 and the other 3/8.
If you start with one and are close but think you have room for improvement...can always add the second one. I would not just get two right off. With as much radiator as you have, it might still make sense to use one loop of each T3 for the rad/s on that leg.Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
The different or mixed tube sizes is actually a very interesting thought. Had not occurred to me yet, but I will tinker with that when some time frees up.
I use 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tube and still have a bunch of Primochill LRT in that size left.
I don't see any compression fitting size for my tube, what are the options for 7/16 ID tube users?
I would hate to buy new tubes because I invested in a bunch of $$$ Compression BP fittings in various flavors.
Guys have made the BP comp fittings work by switching out the BP o-ring for a thicker o-ring. It seems something like Swiftech's o-rings work pretty well.Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
You can also use these ghost fittings barbs if you wish.
http://www.primochill.com/primochill...ng-2-pack.html
http://www.primochill.com/images/pro...b7905cf88f.jpg
Yeah, I'm one of the ones who switched the o-rings on their BP compressions with Swiftech o-rings. The ones I used were from Swiftech High Flows (i.e. their chrome barbs). Their awful nylon barbs have o-rings that are a little bit too big and will end up being loose.
Anyways, that solution has been working fine and leakfree for me for the past three weeks or so.
I am going to see if Brian can find the correct size O ring (the thicker one) and sell just the O rings for .10 cents or w/e so people don't havr to buy the whole fitting to get the O ring. That or at least find the Correct size and a store online that sells them. There are also some very sexy metal compression fitting coming--will be a while though.
Really? Sorry don't mean to doubt you, but it looks to me like there's a pretty significant lip at the front.:confused: Just want to clarify.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
O-rings for people to use: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/reo.html
Just use 2 per fitting (so 1 extra per fitting) and you'll be good to go :up:
(getting the bigger o-ring is a slightly more elegant solution, I'll admit)
I cannot support the use of two o-rings back to back without at least putting a washer between them. I have seen too many o-rings roll off of the other ring, leaving a gap between the two.
on the BP highflows, two o-rings doesn't give enough thread exposed to get the barbs in and secure. :(
i could use some tips from the experts who played with everything.
i use just normal barbs that comes with my blocks, or the ones i had to instal into my heatercores, and i clamp them with normal worm gear clamps. however with the T3 i dont think i can really reach in there from a side angle to screw in the worm gears, (but honestly i can if i need too, its not that bad). i just dont like the clamps that came with the T3, i had leaking issues cause they were loosened up a little, and i so i just used vice grips to lightly grab the plastic fittings and tighten until i was comfortable.
im thinking i will be taking off the outside clamp of the T3 standard clamps and use my own worm gears, or unless you guys can recommend me something else (i really dont know what else is out there). but the goal is something that will not leak and easy to install and work with (the T3 ones really twisted up my tubes and i had to put them in first or have fun spinning the tubs on the other side of the line)
IMO, the easiest way to install the tubing on the T3.
Install the T3 and measure your tubes coming off of it. Remove the T3 and install the tubes to it outside the case, then snake everything back in and secure those tubes to your blocks or rads.
It's a lot easier than trying to reach into your drive bays.
No not at all...better to be sure B4 you spend your monies for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
Have to agree as O rings are famous for getting along while your looking at them...then the second your not, one slips off. Better to just go with the fatter ones IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Z3VH
Not sure why your having an issue with the compression fittings. Tighten them finger tight, then about 1/4 (1/2 at most) turn more. If your having trouble getting the extra tightening, just cut a short--like 1/2"--length of tubing from some scrap. Slit it lengthwise so you can easily slip it onto the barb, and use a pair of common pliers to tighten the barb down. The tubing will protect it against scratches.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
The compression rings do NOT need to be really cranked down hard to make a seal as they are mostly to make sure a kid or whomever doesn't reach in and yank a tube off of a fitting. Hold the tube with your left hand while tightening the compression with your right hand in case it wants to spin.
Do the same when removing a compression ring. hold the tube with one hand and loosen the ring with the other.
Yeah, I have big hands that are old and beat up so working on ANYTHING in those tight spaces is too much of a PITA for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
The Coolmaster drivebay systems is a bit of a hassle with the T3 as it doesn't work with it. I found that you can only screw it in on one side as the holes on the other side are for the lower holes and the T3's holes are the upper ones. I found that if you bend that spring tab inwards though, it seems to hold that other side of the res fairly well.
I forgot to take photos, but if you have a coolermaster case with that latch system, you will see what I'm talking about.