Hmm, I'm running a 3-pin Nexus Real Silent fan of the 4-pin CPUFan header, and it controls it just fine as fare as I can see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Heidfirst
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Hmm, I'm running a 3-pin Nexus Real Silent fan of the 4-pin CPUFan header, and it controls it just fine as fare as I can see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Heidfirst
CONTROL or RUN. If it is controlling it, then you should be able to increase and decrease the rpm on the fan through %. But it is capable of running it either way, but on the 4 pin, you can't control the speed of the fan. I have a 3pin fan controller on my cnps9500 but I can't control the speed (it doesn't matter though since I found my fan controller). But it will run fine. This is all on the 4pin header.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
BTW, I just got my memory to run DDR800 @ 4-4-4-12-1T @ 1.9v. The thing is that I doubt it's running that fast only because I don't think I've seen 4 sticks run at 1T and those tight timings.
I am able to control the speed of the fan through the % setting in bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
I thought it wouldn't work, but looking at the fan, I can see that it is spinning slower or faster compared to the %-setting I have set in bios.
It must be Aliens then :welcome:Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
Is there any chance to give the CPU more than 600MHz of FSB with that board?
Nope. Limit is 200-600mhz FSBQuote:
Originally Posted by Fixxxer
I never had to leave ASUS :(
Can't imagine why you would need that much FSB. I mean if you wanted to break some WRs you should have gone with the P35 DFI. Overall this motherboard is excellent and gives excellent overclocks for the price.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixxxer
I 2nd that overall this board a great piece of kit without taking the price into consideration, when you do that its hard too see why anyone wouldn't buy it as its more than capable of maxing 95% of peoples kit out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
CN
IP35 Pro - I'm running a 3-pin Vantec Stealth on the 4-pin CPU Fan header without issue, RPM's go up and down.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
AW9D Max - Will not control a 3-pin Vantec Stealth on the 4-pin CPU Fan header.
Not only about that. (When I bought the IP35 Pro the DFI P35 T2R wasn't released, otherwise I'd have one now). IMO being limited by a motherboard when a chipset is capable to do more than 600MHz is a shame. :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
Yes I agree I hate being motherboard limited however I think the limiting factor for the majority of people will be the CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixxxer
Don't take this the wrong way but how many people do you know with CPU's that can break 600fsb.
CN :)
Ace-A-Rue
could AS5 be use instead of ceramic for your mod, thx
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
yes, but i personally avoid it since clamping pressure, if extreme, can make AS5 electrically conductive.
try with the last bios....You can set higher FSB 600 from bios boot to windows..:) :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
I use OCCT to load my PC. So I ran it and around 10min into testing my PC freezes. The mouse and keyboard(G15) do not respond. I waited 10-15min and still nothing. I restart and the Intel raid manager says that there is a problem with that data on the volume.
My clocks are bone stock.
It only seems stable with no load. (ie: at desktop and surfing the internet)
I played some Battlefield 1942 and when I quit a memory error message popped up. Don't know if this is related.
Temps are fine and so are the volts.
sorry for the bump. :(
The IP35-E & IP35 can but the Pro can't afaik (uGuru related I believe) although MoN's experience refutes that - do you have a Pro?Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
The Pro has been known to run over 600fsb - there's a thread here with it at 610 iirc but running at that fsb the latencies are eased so your performance drops.
Just finished off a build with an IP35 and Corsair 520HX.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
No noises, very quiet system overall.
E6550 @ 460x7 = 3220mhz
Stock volts, 1.1v idle, 1.29v under load and C1E and EIST enabled
Stock volts on CPU, NB, everything...
2gb Crucial Ballistix @ 2.1v
Maybe it only happens under higher loads?
[QUOTE=Heidfirst;2409345]The IP35-E & IP35 can but the Pro can't afaik (uGuru related I believe) although MoN's experience refutes that - do you have a Pro?
QUOTE]
Yes I have the Pro board.
I just attempted the vdroop mod and everything WAS excellent until I tried booting. Post Error Code 8.7. - Check CPU core voltage :eek: so I tried removing all the fan connectors except cpu; attempted boot with 1 stick of ram; removed graphics card :eek: ; Even unplugged 8-pin connector and I still get the same code 8.7. I removed the vdroop mod and all the wires and still same code! :(
I'm uploading the pictures right now. I thought it was quite good. I don't know wtf happened. BTW, I set the VR @ 637ohms.
JB, I sure can use you're words of wisdom right now since I performed this thing exactly like you showed:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=802
This couldn't be because OCCT is using all of your CPU cycles could it. Try running OCCT, right click it in Windows task manager and change it's priority to lowest.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
Here are the pictures. Just thinking about how hard it was to get the job done with that solder iron tip and 2.4mm solder make me want to scream! BAH! :brick:
I used an IDE wire for the mod. It looked much cleaner but I guess it didn't work :(.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali018.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali017.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali016.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali015.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali014.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali013.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali012.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali011.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali010.jpg
PROBLEM FIXED :D ! The cpu wasn't properly seated :mad: There goes a perfectly good mod :brick: :brick: :brick:
Never thought about that. :( I will try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
Thanks. :)
Anyone know of a spot where you can read the vdimm voltage?
Nope. It still locks up on me. I'm so confused. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
Some has a pic of the surface mount resister on here, Just put your positive on the one side of it and you negative on any of the mounting holes. I would find it for you but I don't have a few minutes right now. It does work, I've tried it, I've actually found that the DMM measurement was more steady than UGuru's readingQuote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
EDIT http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...mm#post2342525
vdimm not vcore, sorry you wasted your time finding it. Which reminds me, I did the vdroop mod again. Vdroop is now LESS THAN .001! Sweet :D I can run 3.2ghz on 1.3v(bios) 1.291 IDLE 1.291 LOAD.Quote:
Originally Posted by scwam
NICE:up:
I just finished soldering my Vdroop mod (both difficult and nerve-racking even with a new fine tip needlepoint and a large sight lens) and unfortuantely the resistance part of my DMM is phucked. However, Whatever the screw turn is at it is showing a vdroop of between 0.009 and no more than 0.01
1.439 at idle
1.449 at load
Does this seem right?
(alik, I have no idea how you managed to pull the mod off with that junk gun you have, you must have hands with robot-like precision)
Seems good. You should get a new DMM and fine tune your vdroop. Set the vcore to your desire. Then check the vcore at idle with a DMM. Run P95 and check the load voltage with the DMM. Attempt to change the voltage to match or come close to the idle voltage by turning the VR. Takes more than one try to get it really on the dot.
BTW, not only did I do that mod once, but after I ripped it off cause I thought my motherboard went bad, I DID IT AGAIN! :woot: Junk Gun FTW! :D Oh and here's my secret...
...
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...
...
...
...
...
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it's much more than precise robot-hands ;)
...
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It's my
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...s_of_steel.jpg
Laughing Well after seeing that!
hey that doesnt seem to bad, i tested my vdimm last night with my dmm. I feel special! Once i have some time, and procure a 20watt iron, iam going to probably try the mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
shakey hands are bad
Your iron tip looks like it went through hell and back!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
did u order the solder online? i went to frys and cant find silver bearing solder at all, all they stock is rosin core.
nothing under 4mm either=[ Ohwell gonna have to plan this one out
^ Please try to edit out the images when you quote a post, it only takes a few seconds ^
I bough it from Sears a year ago for 10 bucks. I'm melted plastic, glue, CDs, DVDs, pretty much had a lot of fun with it. So I ended up with that lol. The picture of the iron is after I sanded it down last Monday. i was trying to get a fine tip. i can't believe after a couple hours use it turned into that again lol. I'm fine with it :) Itz all Skillz :p: I'll be hot roding my x-fi card with this. We'll see how that goes. i plan on replacing ALL the op amps and the CAP with that iron :cool:
Posts 103 and 282.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
any body know about new version Uguru ?? I hope we can set FSB higher FSB 600 from windows...
sorry for my bad english
I have this board from 2 weeks ago, and all works perfect, today I reboot, and change 3 values of the MB
I upload ONLY one point more than default on
CPU VTT
ICHIO
ICH
inmediatly superior option, no more.
After that, I save the bios and reboot, but the computer dont work anymore, I receive C1 error and all the fans are at max capacity always
I try to:
Reset bios with jumper
try all of my 4 modules of ram, 1 on 1 and 2 on 2 on all combinations
turn off the sai, then the power suply havent go energy, and then click on "on button" of the mb to leave the capacitors out of energy, I Dismantled all the computer and ensambled again, reset again the bios, get out the bios battery and wait 3 hours, Then I try again and nothing. C1 error.
Whats the problem?
thanks
I have done the vdroop mod today also. How is the best way to get vcore rock solid. When i try to adjust the droop my vcore just going up a bit.
That's what its supposed to do, set the voltage in bios, connect the multimeter (my uguru values are -0.02v from actual). Load the cores, and wind the vr down in resistance and stop when the voltage rises to meet the bios set value. Take it off load and see how much it changes, mine only moves 0.005vQuote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
Got my IP35 Pro.
No POST. Halts at C1 error code (memory detect error).
Using TeamGroup DDR2-667 (TXDD2048M667HC3DC-M) that is D9GMH rated for 3-3-3-8. The sticks do work on a Gigabyte i965P board - although with some coldboot issues.
Try with only 1 DIMM installed, if it POSTS go into BIOS & set the Vdimm to the manufacturer's recommended voltage for it's rated speed.
Iirc the earlier BIOS didn't support CAS3.
Hmmm....running same memory on my rig and never had a problem. As Heidfirst said, try one stick (preferably slot 4) and see if it boots. If that doesn't work do a good Cmos clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
Usually the SPD on these sticks is set loose to allow booting at 1.8vdimm ,mine are
8-3-3-3 @200
11-4-4-4@266
13-5-5-5@333
Maybe yours have a different SPD programming?
I'm not getting any resistance reading on my mod. I'm wondering if I'm taking the reading from the wrong place or the resistor is bad (although I have no vdroop, actually it goes up 0.008 to 0.010 from idle). I just bought a replacement DMM today too. I get no reading even at 2000 Ohm. I took both reading from the vcore measure are and then tried the actual resistors the wires were soldered to. Nothing. Nothing happends or changes when I rotate the resistor either, even 6 or 7 turns.Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
90 pages is a lot to read. Can someone just tell me if I'd be gtg with the ip35pro and a q6600 go if I wanted to run my system 24/7 at 400x9 = 3.6ghz? Cooling with a xp90c and a lot of cfm.
Yea your good. Thats what I run exactly. 3.6 24/7 with c1e and eist enabled to kick down the volts when im away. I am prime stable and under 60c on load.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by scwam
once you solder the VR to the appropriate points, you will not get an accurrate resistance reading...you should have set the resistance before doing the solder job...you can try checking with power off at the terminals at the base of the VR to see if it gives you an approximate resistance reading.
if you are trying to read vcore from the solder points..DON'T!..it doesn't work that way.
if you are getting no or literally no vdroop or vdrop, i would say that the vr is working.
Hi to everyone here, I plan on buying this to run a Q6600 but I've read a review over at xbitlab and they noticed a problem when unexpectedly restarting the machine the board doesn't remember speed setting of the fans. could anyone verify if this is correct? not a major problem but I would think it an annoyance.
The I gave of today recibed my motherboard, but is a total disaster, to begin can't bot with my burner ide, before but al while trying to remove the drivers old of the motherboard previous I join itself, resume it and try again and the same thing. before I join itself myself and me not the the screen removed of bot,, and removed an error 8.4, trying with other memories, clean the cmos, remove the battery, remove all and it again to arm all, and the same thing.
Sincerely the boards abit I think that they are a total disaster and never in my life I buy again something of this mark.
Summary of Beta BIOS for IP35-E/IP35
-Fixed double post during cold boot but only if standby power to MB is not interrupted. If you disconnect the PSU from the wall, then board will double post at the next restart.
-Added FP Audio selector...HD audio/AC97
-Added more RAM timing options (as low as 3, plus 1T/2T)
-Fixed CPU temp (+1 to +3C higher than Coretemp)
To switch to latest Beta BIOS, download from link below and also the official 11 BIOS from the Abit global website. Copy all five files from official 11 BIOS to floppy. Rename Beta BIOS to M630A_11.BIN and replace it with the 11 BIOS on floppy. You should also edit the ABITFAE.BAT file to include the WB switch.
Command should look like this (1/2 way down)>>> AWDFLASH.EXE %1 /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc
http://www.abit.com.cn/bios/IP35-E/M630A_13.zip
I finished watercooling my board:D .... Since I cant check temps for nb and sb, I thought PWM temp will give me an idea how its working..... Fired it up at 1.5v actual and ran Orthos, PWM temp started to go up slowly and hit 55c:eek: which is worst than at stock:mad: .... Checked the block and it was cold but the black box with coils beside it is hot, so I put a lil fan on them and my temp drop to 46c...... The fan should not affect my PWM temp cos the blocks are covering them so I really wonder how accurate the temp monitor is..... Anybody know where they measure the PWM temp from?....
Fun project but playing with GTLref today my board wont boot again:mad: ... Stuck at C1, I tried all my mems even my trusty 1.8v Kingston value and no go.... I love this boaed but Im having the worst luck with em....
Some pics... Didnt turn out as planned cos it was alot harder to make than I thought....
http://ocidb.com/albums/userpics/10062/hp1.JPG
http://ocidb.com/albums/userpics/10062/hp2.JPG
http://ocidb.com/albums/userpics/10062/DSC00698.JPG
When I first purchased the board the PWM area popped and burned. My second iteration WC setup now has RAM sinks on the PWM and have not seen the temps go over 55c.
Very interesting WC loop you got there. The GTL ref never gave me any legitimate stable oc's. When I first played around with GTL I always had to be ready to reset the CMOS because there were many C1/weirdo beeps.
The board is great and easily overclockable, have nothing but great things to say. Makes you wonder why I invested in the DFI "Green" (LanParty UT P35-T2R).:shrug:
My PWM temps never went over 60oC even running my E6600 @ 3.8GHz but as soon as I put a Q6600 on her the PWM went nuclear. I added an 80mm fan to the PWM are just to get my PWM temps back down in the 60's otherwise they could hit 100oC at 3.7GHz running Prime95 with the quad.Quote:
Originally Posted by chawks2
I read somewhere maybe even this thread that you shouldn't need to go over 70% with the GTL's. I was able to run my Q6600 a little faster for longer by maxing out the CPU VTT & upping the GTL's to 70%. I think the GTL's do make a difference on this board but perhaps the differences are only very small & almost unnoticeable until you have your CPU on the limit.Quote:
The GTL ref never gave me any legitimate stable oc's. When I first played around with GTL I always had to be ready to reset the CMOS because there were many C1/weirdo beeps.
I also have the DFI but have to say as much as I love the Abit the DFI is just a bit better but then it should be it cost twice as much.Quote:
The board is great and easily overclockable, have nothing but great things to say. Makes you wonder why I invested in the DFI "Green" (LanParty UT P35-T2R).:shrug:
The DFI's voltages are sweet, real accurate & stable couple that with its superior thermal management/heat pipe & you end up with a killer board.
Straight out of the box with just a fan on the PWM are to bring temps down from the high 60's to the high 30's I primed 475 x 8 3.8GHz for 8 hours last night with my Q6600 @ 1.52v which is 0.07v lower than my IP35 Pro @ 3.7GHz thanks to the DFI' PWM & super smooth delivery.
The Abit is IMO the best all rounder but the DFI is just a little better if you want to push just a little harder.
CN :)
Look for those green temperature sensors soldered to the board. Your temp went up because of lack of air flow to these sensors. The MOSFETs are soldered to a big heat sink embedded in the MB. The path of least resistance for heat transfer is into the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by luihed
Weird. My sticks don't have the 266MHz SPD. Instead it has a secondary 333MHz code with tCL4:Quote:
Originally Posted by new-b
8-3-3-3@200
14-5-5-4@333
14-5-5-5@333
I flashed the other stick with an SPD image from a DDR800 binned Team D9GMH stick, flashed stick now has:
8-3-3-3@200
11-4-4-4@266
16-5-5-5@400
-> no go on the abit.
But the board does not boot with either module. :shrug:
My old crummy Gigabyte 965P-DS4 works "fine" with both the stock and the flashed one.
Guess I'll be trying different combination of sticks and slots...
Can someone tell me if a 1kw VR is the same thing as a 1kw potentiometer? My local RS has the pot and it looks like what is being used for the volt mod but it has 3 legs. In all the pics I only see 2 legs.
Can you tell I am a total newb when it comes to this :shrug:
Im in need of some serious help here, it would be greatly appreciated. I know your gunna call me a "dumbass" but I decided to flash the bios via windows and ever since I've been having stability issues w/ the board. When I flashed the board via windows, bios 11, I returned all clocks back to stock before hand then proceded to let it do its thing. The bios flash utility via abit temporarily frorze mid flash while the prog. proceeded not to respond in windows. While cussing my head off it decides to continue w/ the flash and then prompts me to restart the computer, which I do. Next problem, computer restarts and just chills on the "C1" code and dosen't do anything. I Have to "hard power" off the computer and it reboots fine. Went into the bios to verify it did flash, which it did.
Now I seem to have these weird stability issues, the computer will randomly just shut off. It will do this when just surfing the internet or idling. Prior to flashing the bios my clocks were stable in Prime for 8+ hours. Could this be a PSU issue? Bad Flash? I know UGURU isnt shutting the computer, any ideas? Should I try re-flashing the bios properly via a jump drive, will that help?
Right now I'm thinking this is a PSU issue, although wouldnt the computer try and re-start if it was a PSU issue?
Thanks for any help.
Scott
Remove the battery and set CMOS jumper to clear position for 1/2 day. Also disconnect power to the PSU. Retest.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
I'd reflash to 11 BIOS using the floppy drive and the "WB" switch if problem persists.
Should work. They all have 3 legs. Use the middle leg and one of the outer leg. A 20 to 25 turn POT may provide better resolution when you fine tune the voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
A variable resistor is a potentiometer, yes. Its not 1kW, its 1 KOhm. They have two specs, one is the resistance the other is the power rating in watts. They have three legs, the outer ones are the full resistance. The middle is called the wiper and depending on the direction moved changes to a low resistance (dead short) to the full resistance. I usually cut one leg off (either end) to arrange it so that clockwise increases the resistance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...o=2202&doy=5m9
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/Full/uh23a.jpg
You will only use 2 of the three legs. The leg that you must use is the leg in the middle. Then you can connect either one of the other legs. Don't connect both, just one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
If it said that it completed the flash fine, personally, I would believe it. I think you're just having stability issues from the new bios and not from the fact that you flashed it from windows. The reason why flashing from windows was not recommended is because there is a high chance of failiure, not stability issues. You received the same bios you would have received with a floppy flash. Although, I'm skeptical of the parameters you put during the floppy update compared to the one in windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
Hi, anyone noticing the odd quirk with this board.
Sometimes my cpu temp gets stuck usually on 0c , only a cmos clear using the switch next to the PS2 port fixes it. ( doesnt seem to be a complete clear of the cmos ? ) not even reloading a good profile thru the bios will fix it either :(
Also sometimes my 3pin cpu fan will be control by uGuru , other times it just sticks on slowest speed or maximum.
if they can fix these issues i'll be one happy chappy :)
Anyway thanks for all the valuable posts here.
Amigan.
I was under the impression that bios 11 was better for OC'ing? Looks like its back to the drawing board. I'm fairly new to OC'ing, would instability lead to the computer just randomly shutting off vrs. BSOD'ing in Windows? If this is possible, why wouldnt it crash under full load vrs. just browsing the internet/idle? When I get home tongiht I will run Prime 95 till I go to bed to re-check for stability w/ the new bios.
Thanks,
Scott
Hmmm, interesting. My uGuru cpu temp was stuck at 32C last night. I was thinking a reboot would resolve, but haven't tried it yet cause I know my cooling is good so no real problem. Now I'm going to have to reboot to see if that clears or I need a reset. FWIW, I never saw this problem with earlier bios versions, only with this last version....I think B.12 if that sounds right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Amigan
i did try all the beta's but have gone back to final 11, all flashed using dos awdflash and using the /WB optionQuote:
Originally Posted by mikead_99
i also dont see the option in the bios to select the type of cpu fan (quite sure i did see it before ) , checking the manual kinda of jogged my memory but i canna find it now .. perhaps its in a later bios ?
regards
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amigan
The IP35 Pro doesn't have the 3-pin or 4-pin CPU Fan option in BIOS as the User's Manual claims. But the CPU Fan header will control a 3-pin fan, most of the time. Sometimes it does lose control of it and the RPM will max out. I’ve had that happen twice, and I think both times I turned off the power supply so the board wasn’t getting 5v standby power. Clearing CMOS will restore the function.
I have never seen the option to select fan type in bios (even though the manual says it's there :shrug: ).....the Xibitlabs review mentions the IP35-pro "auto detects" what type of fan is installed there, they aslo mention that hitting the reset button seems to be the cause of the fan speed getting stuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amigan
I guess the easy way around it would be to dissable the CPU header,and use another of the five 3-pin headers.
Hello everybody. First post here. I'm pretty new to overclocking, so bear with me. Here is everything in my system.
Abit IP35 Pro
E6750 @ 3.2GHz (8 x 400) w/ Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
OCZ Platinum DDR2 800 (2 x 1Gb) x 2 = 4 Gb @ 4-4-4-15
EVGA 8800GTS 640MB
OCZ StealthXStream 600W
Lite On Optical Drive
WD 500Gb Hard Drive
AverMedia TV Tuner
USB Card Reader
All in an Antec P182B case with 4-120 mm fans.
Okay, here are my voltages as set in the BIOS.
Core - 1.35
RAM - 2.050
CPU VTT - 1.20
MCH - 1.29
ICH - 1.05
Temps in uGuru:
CPU - 29C
System - 31C
PWM - 41C
I have ran orthos and memtest for about 6 hours each without any errors.
Some questions:
How do you guys feel about those voltages?
Could someone explain what PWM is?
When overclocking, should one go for lower FSB speeds and higher multipliers or higher FSB speeds and lower multipliers?
I know that if my FSB is 333, I can lower my RAM speed and timings.
I think I'm confused.
Any help is appreciated.
I've never had trouble with FlashMenu and I've used it countless times with many different abit motherboards. You do flash in Windows so you must have a stable system. Some claim flashing from floppy is safer, maybe it is a little, but a FDD is about the most unreliable drive there is.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
A few FlashMenu Caveats:
Never flash with an unstable system, you’re flashing from Windows.
Never flash overclocked. (I most often do)
Never use One Click LiveUpdate.
Download the BIOS version you want to use and extract the files to a known location. FlashMenu only needs the BIN file; I have all the different BIN files in a folder in My Documents.
Open FlashMenu and uncheck the Clear CMOS box; you’ll clear CMOS manually a little later. This is handy with RAID, the system should reboot into Windows where you can shut down properly.
Select the Update from File option. It will ask where the file is, point it there it. If you select ‘All Files’ it will display Alpha and Beta BIOS versions (.Axx and .Bxx) in addition the .BIN files, so there is no need to rename them.
When flashing in Vista it may appear to freeze, don’t panic, it’s still working, just wait.
Once it's finished it will say the system must be restarted, so restart the system, it should boot into Windows with all BIOS setting intact. Now you can shut down properly.
Clear CMOS and Load Optimized Defaults as described below.
Turn off the power supply then unplug the cord from the power supply.
Turn the computer on to drain all power from the capacitors.
Pop out the battery.
Move the CMOS Jumper on the motherboard (or rear panel switch) to the Clear CMOS position.
Let it sit ten minutes. Blow the dust off the fans and heatsinks and out of the power supply while you wait.
Pop the battery back in and move the CMOS Jumper on the motherboard (or rear panel switch) to the Run position.
Plug the cord into the power supply and turn it on.
Start the system up...
Enter BIOS and select "Load Optimized Defaults", F10 to save & exit. It restarts...
Enter BIOS to make the rest of your necessary changes, F10 to save & exit. It restarts...
Alternate Ending: If you have memory that will not run as a pair with default 1.80v while you “Let it sit ten minutes” remove one dimm leaving one in slot four.
Enter BIOS and select "Load Optimized Defaults", and then manually set the correct voltage for your memory, F10 to save & exit. It restarts...
Enter BIOS to make the rest of your necessary changes, F10 to save & exit. It restarts...
Shut down and add the second dimm in slot two.
did xbitlab use the the original release bios?...that could have been the problemQuote:
Originally Posted by pcdrive
the only problem i have is the cpu fan header will go back to full speed if you go into the bios to change a setting and then save...once that happens, the only way to get the cpu fan header working correctly is to clear CMOS.
i am using "12.B01" bios...now...this bios could have that particular problem with it...i haven't flashed back to the official bios..or...gone up to next beta bios to verify.
the way i get around the cpu fan header speed problem, i put my two cpu fans on AUX 1 & 2 and those two work correctly with controlling fan speed...you can change bios setting all day without affecting the operational speed of the AUX fan 1 & 2.
now, SYS, AUX 3 & 4 fans are running at full speed in my setup...so...i can not talk definitively if a reboot resets those fan headers back to full speed.
Thanks for the info Master! It could just be my prev. clocks dont work with the new bios. Im starting some new testing tonight, I will report back later.
Currently Im testing a 24.7 clock:
3294 Mhz
366 mhz - 1.35 vcore bios - 1.27~.29 full load
1:1 FSB/Dram
2.2 Vmem 4-4-4-12 2T
MCH 1.29
ICH - 1.05
ICHO -1.5
PCI Freq 100 mhz
All other settings are stock.
Only thing I have changed now from the past bios was the MCH voltage and 1 mhz clock on the CPU freq. I'm not sure if this bios requires a little more NB voltage to achive stable clocks or if it simply dosent like my previos 367mhz CPU clock.
Any thoughts?
Update:
I ran Prime last night for about 4 hours and everything seemed ok. Came back to find the computer still running but no signal to the monitor. Computer wasnt sleeping and the MOBO post code still said "FF", "fully F**Ked" IMO. Hard powered her off and said forget it for the night. Woke up this morning and decided to re-apply AS5 due to the large diff. in temps between the cores, almost 10 degrees under full load and 5+ at idle. Go to power on and now im recieving a post code of 82 "enable ATX power supply". No bigge I have seen this before, clear CMOS and she will boot. No dice. This leads me back to my orginal theory that the PSU just cant handle the full load of 7 fans, Pump, OCZ ram cooler, Q6600 OC, and the 8800 GTX. Next step looks like borrowing a friends PSU to check for stability.
Any thoughts ?
Thanks
Scott
Thats the PCP&C in the sig is it? Because I doubt its that tbh, I have one and its more than capable of that kind of load. If in doubt check the voltages at load with a meter, unless its faulty the regulation on those is pretty damn good, doubt it'll move much.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
Yeah its the PCP&C in the sig. Finally got the computer to boot, decided to use the jumper instead of the EZ-CMOS clear and it booted fine. Not sure why I was getting the 8.2 error code. Looks like its time to dig out the MM and check voltages. This whole thing is frustrating to say the least. I'm assuming its just possible that 1.35 vcore bios, 1.26-29 full load isnt enough juice to achieve a stable clock. Back tot he drawing board. :shakes: On a positive not the AS5 droped my temps a few degrees compared to the Cremq. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
I've seen where those new Quads can do some high core speeds with low core voltage but yours does seem very low to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
I'm only running a (nicely overclocked) E4400 in my IP35 Pro, but I've found the voltages needed to pass Super Pi 32M a couple of times also worked for passing one 9+ hour round of Orthos. This was not the case with my E6600 in my AW9D Max; I always needed more of something to pass one round of Orthos.
Why not put a few more volts through it for a bit to see if that cures it? You're expecting a lot for that to be stable at 3.3GHz if its dropping to 1.26v. I'd set to about 1.48v to see the actual around 1.4v and see what happens, you won't hurt it, just keep an eye on temps. Same goes for the MCH and VTT, just bump them up, when you find the cause slowly drop them and check the results.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
Exactly what im doing now 1.39 bios/ 1.31 load, stable for 3 hours now on prime. I bumped up the MCH and ICH voltage one notch as well. Temps are looking ok, 57 core 0&1, 50 core 2&3. Looks like i was just expecting to much from not enough voltage..... :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
Don't forget maximum stock is around 1.35v, so a few millivolts above that aren't going to hurt. With temps like that and a bit more juice 3.6GHz looks possible. I wouldn't worry about the ICH voltage, thats the southbridge, shouldn't effect the overclock.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
your observation is correct!
why waste your time with orthos or P95!...if you get an hour, i think it is great...unless you fold or play games that really pull on the cpu then it is a waste of energy and time to go beyond one hour...just MHO:up: :DQuote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
Hey i just installed a new 400 gb hdd alongside my 500gb raid 0 setup. The bios sees it and the intel raid config sees it and windows device manager sees it but its not showing up in windows explorer. Im under vista 32 bit.
Errrr Even Hd tach sees the drive. It has no letter assigned to it either. Ive tried the poplate option already. It must be some windows thing.
you need to make it either a primary partition or extended partition drive...then format it so you can store items on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bfox2
Nevermind I got it figured out in disk management. sorry for the triple post.
That's so comical, but true. I remember playing CSS/BF2 @ a LAN once and this guy just took FOREVER to load games and get in the server. We'd be 1/2 through the round/map and he'd show up. Later on...hours later on, he'd finally broke down and asked us what seemed wrong. Slow load, slow hdd, right? HD Tach showed about 5MB/Sec STR and Orthos crashed within minutes...yet he somewhat happily gamed for quite some time!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I'll run Orthos @ bed time or when I'm not here, but there's no way I'll watch a "GO!" when I could be gaming. :D
Anyway, thanks much for the recommendations on this board. Turning it on w/ the Uguru clock saves my lazy a$$, the layout for SATA connectors makes life much easier, and the stability for such a new board...well, I'm going back to play Bioshock now. :D
anyone have info on a new beta bios???
are you asking about "12.B02"?
Anyone know if there's a Vdroop pencil mod for this board or just the solder mod. I was going to attempt the solder mod but holy donkey turds batman, talk about soldering to the size of pencil dot. :eek: How are people pulling this off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
no not 12. anything newer:)
releases have slowed quite a bit it seems, guess the team is cranking away at the x38 stuff
No pencil mod...... I've been kinda put off by the small size of the mod too, but if Alik4041 can do it using this...........well, I have no excuse not to do it now lolQuote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=2223
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali017.jpg
:rofl: Glad I can be of service :D BTW, JB said that the pencil mod is doable but very inaccurate. You shouldn't do it when we're talking about precision resistance down to the ohm.
Board causes my X-Fi to crackle. I'm guessing it's something to do w/ the layer count of the PCB cause my DFI Infinity did it. EVGA 680i and Asus P5B Deluxe do not have this problem. Sure wish Abit would release a max board w/ cooler pwm's and a thicker board. :(
The scale is a bit daunting, but steady hands and a magnifying glass helps:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
could be a bios problem...resource interference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
newbee to the ip35 pro bios and overclocking, use to intel d975xbx2 bios can anyone give heads on timing vdimm,men ref,men freg,thanks scorpion
I have no problems with my X-Fi under Vista or XP either one. Didn't I read somewhere about the latest Creative Vista driver causing this? I remember thinking about that when I loaded Vista but I had no problems so figured I must have gotten ahold of the older version.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
Well I just installed vista x64 5 minutes ago. Here's hoping I don't get any problems with my x-fi :rolleyes: At least now I can use all 4GB of memory :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
Thats funny because I went and actually bought a magnifying glass here from Radio Shack just to do this mod as well as my 8800GTX but damn even with a magnifying glass it's so frikin small. Maybe I was using the wrong size of wire :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain