hey iam having some issues, had a question about LED post codes. I get C1, C3, etc..then 89..56..bunch of numbers really quick. IT has always done that
but i dont remeber seeing FF while in windows after boot.
its not in the book
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hey iam having some issues, had a question about LED post codes. I get C1, C3, etc..then 89..56..bunch of numbers really quick. IT has always done that
but i dont remeber seeing FF while in windows after boot.
its not in the book
Iam doing some testing, i have the same g.skill the other guy has. This board may have some problems with quad and 4GB. Iam having alot of issues since going too G0Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
iam about to shut down and install my e6600 and just 2gb, then 4gb of ram. which i had for a couple of months before getting quad with no issues. if i still see the random freezes etc in games and during installs. Iam gonna rma for a new one, and my proc! lol
Drives are fine, ive ran multiple test on them, and swapped them into another machine, and have no issues transfering files over.
i have a 700w gamextreme, 2 tier psu. Its been reliable for a year, and i tested rails on a dmm last week when i first got my G0. under load i saw no issue on the DMM. And after yanking out the 8800 , and putting a 6600, minus 2 drives, and almost no fans. and still a bunch of freezes..iam at a loss, it all worked for 3 days with the quad..and took a nose dive
and i dont really push stuff hard at all. Except for that quick sucide run i did !! LOL
First though i took out 2 sticks of my 1gb g.skill 6400 HZ's..gonna run some games, and 3dmark and see if it still locks.
then pry the HSF off next if it happens..
That's weird. Cpu-z states 475FSB while Coretemp states 528.76 :confused: But Orthos states that it's the higher FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Crappachuwee! I just ordered my q6600 g0 and I have 4x1gb of ram. I hope this doesn't happen to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
BTW, if I go in the bios and set the timings 4-4-4-12 1t, do I need to worry about all the other timings about the memory or just set them to auto. I'm scared if I set them to auto, they will be set to a lower setting than default.
Its normal & means boot attempt see v6 at the bottom of this linkQuote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
http://www.bioscentral.com/postcodes/awardbios.htm
I think all boards are a little more difficult to overclock with 4GB of RAM & its only logical 4 cores & 4GB is going to load a board more than 2 cores & 2GB its just the way it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
I also have a Q6600 & it runs fine with 2GB of RAM havent tested 4GB as I dont need it.
CN
I find auto works fine for my OCZ RAM's secondary timings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
When I tweak the secondaries out I only gain a few hundred mb/s bandwidth so you wont be missing much if you just leave them auto.
CN
Any news on the dual boot issue from abit? Also, does the Thermalright ultima-90 fit alright?
WTF?!?! How many issues are there, I mean I've heard so many great things about this motherboard. I order it and ever since then it's been nothing but "issue with XXXX" LOL :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by tw33ter
And the Ultima-90 should fit w/o any problems. If the 120 can fit than the smaller one can fit :p:
I did'nt know there was a dual boot 'issue', been running perfectly since day one, bought the same week of release :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by tw33ter
:eek: :bounces:Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
:mad: :slapass: :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by tw33ter
All that needs to be said ^.^
The double boot issue is with the IP35-E and IP35. Both share a BIOS and don’t have a uGuru chip.
The uGuru chip equipped IP35 Pro has its own BIOS and does not have the double boot issue.
Glad to hear it. Btw, you have some original names for you PCs :p:
Anyone running Quad Core with 4 x 1 GB RAM? I realize that'll be a huge load on any motherboard but I'm wondering if people have OC'd it fine?
Hi
Thanks for the advices, my bios is 11 at the moment
I try several more things
Lowing the Vmem to 2.3 and get bsod @ fsb 450 and multi 1.2 to get 1080 with 55515. Ive got a 10cm fan blowing directly on the mems, and nothing.
Now i have Vcore to 1.4 and micro on 3600 and is stable, but for me, is impossible to get more than 450fsb or ddr900, 1080 bsod with 2.3v and fails orthos test with 2.4.
I try will 1gb, 2gb and 4gb of ram with all the modules.
is frustrating
I too would like to find this out as well. I also have another question. I want to install Vista 32Bit on this board but don't see all the drivers on Abit's website. Am I just overlooking them? I am basing this on the fact that they list several more drivers for Windows XP. Also, the file dates on the drivers seem old.Quote:
Originally Posted by zerazax
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormy2
IP35 Pro Drivers page at the Abit Global website:
http://www2.abit.com.tw/page/en/moth...RODINFO=Driver
The latest BIOS revision will show up at the Abit FTP site first:
ftp://ftp.abit.com.tw/pub/download/
Abit IP35 Pro Sticky with links to the latest drivers:
http://forum.uabit.com/showthread.php?t=124502
That is great. Thanks master. I was looking between this board and the Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3P. I really like the layout of the Abit board. I suppose the only remaining question I have is the memory. I have a Q6600 and 4 x 1 GB sticks of crucial ballistix memory (6400). Will this board support all four dimms without issue and how will that effect overclocking? I don't want to do extreme overclocks but I would like to overclock some. The main thing is reliable and being stable. Also, how is the onboard sound? Do I need to invest in another sound card.
I have 4x1G and q6600 on the board
OC is not great but I think that's b/c my G0 has the highest vid I've seen for a G0--1.3125v
see sig for detail (vcore 1.4625, mch 1.41, ddr2 2.1)
A NEW PRIME RECORD FOR ME WITH MY "G0" Q6600: 14 HOURS AND 53 MINUTES (outside of the case)....got bored with going any further...LOL:ROTF: :rofl:
Very nice result Ace you got a cracking CPU there :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
CN.
thank you C-N!:)
EDITED 04-07-2008 FOR CLARITY AND FURTHER REFINEMENT OF THE PROCEDURE
HOW TO FLASH WITH A FLOPPY AND USB DRIVE IN DOS FOR THE IP35 PRO:
WARNING: THIS PROCEDURE HAS RISKS WITH MAKING THE BOARD UNUSABLE IF THE FLASH IS UNSUCCESFUL...NOT FOR THE FAINTHEARTED;)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
download the latest offical bios from abit's website and use the "RUNME.BAT" and the "ABITFAE.BAT" that is package with the download to do the flashing for you automatically with two floppy's...change or update the flashing switches in "ABITFAE.BAT" with the switches that are shown below using the "edit" command in windows.
AUTOMATIC FLASHING PROCEDURES:
if you want to flash a beta bios release, all you do is edit "RUNME.BAT" with the correct file name of the beta bios...FOR EXAMPLE: if you download the "11" or "14" official bios, you will find the RUNME.BAT...open that file with the Windows edit command...inside, you would see this file name: M629B_11.BIN or this, if it was the 14 bios, M629B_14.BIN...if you want to use another bios file to flash your mobo, you must erase (edit) the current file name and then, put in the new/correct bios file name, ie., M629_16.B04...don't forget your basic DOS procedures...a file name can not be more than 8 alpha-numeric characters...this does not include the file extension...
you will need 2 floppy disks and a floppy drive....one disk will have the booting files to get you to a DOS "A:" prompt (or "C:" with USB)...the other disk carries your bios file along with the award flasher, runme.bat and abitfae.bat...
set the mobo up to boot off the floppy drive as the number 1 choice.
after booting off the 1st (boot) disk, swap out the bootdisk with the 2nd floppy disk that has your bios file, RUNME.BAT, ABITFAE.BAT and AWDFLASH.EXE....then, from the "A:" prompt, type this syntax: RUNME.BAT...just follow the screen prompts from there, which are a series of hitting the "ENTER" key to get to the final action of flashing...be patient while it flashes off a floppy disk...it takes time (about 1-2 minutes) for the bios file to be extracted off the floppy and then uncompacted into memory so it can be flashed via the award flashing program....this is why it is important to not overclock and have proper voltage to your memory sticks....i usually set up 2.1v for my Vdimm at default clock speed...additionally, i juice the vcore (about 0.04 or 0.05) up to be on the safe side too!
you can bypass the automatic way of flashing (not recommended) and do it the old fashion way of manually typing in everything including the switches, bios file name and award flashing program...this procedure is more prone to format and spacing mistakes which will abort the flashing process (no harm).
HOW TO MANUALLY FLASH BY TYPING THE WHOLE COMMAND LINE:
with the 2nd floppy in your "A" drive and you have the "A" prompt on the screen, you type this: A:AWDFLASH.EXE(space)M629B_16.B04(space)/e /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc /cks (add one space between each switch and the next forward slash)
EDIT:...the "E" switch returns you to the DOS "A" prompt after the flash...if for some reason you think the flash was unsuccessful, this gives you another opportunity to reflash!...you can do it as many times as you want!
remember there is one space between each file or switch annotation...there is NO space between the "A" prompt and AWDFLASH.EXE
DO NOT OVERCLOCK while flashing the bios....and...make sure you have proper voltage to your memory sticks like i mention above....to be on the safe side, i recommend to juice up your vcore so you compensate for vdroop.
always a good idea to do a full format on the floppy before copying the bios files to the 2nd floppy...if you have a bad sector on that floppy and do not do a full format, it would be just your luck that the bios file would be copied to that part of the bad sector(s) on the floppy disk.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
USB FLASH PROCEDURES:
if you want to use an USB thumbdrive for booting and flash process, you will need to download this HP TOOL
on that link page, you will also see a link to download the windows 98 booting files that the HP TOOL will want in order to prepare your USB drive as a bootable device/drive.
once you complete the USB boot conversion , copy these files: bios file, abitfae.bat, runme.bat and awdflash.exe to the root of the USB drive....in other words, DO NOT put it into a folder on the USB drive.
go into the mobo bios to select 'hard drive' as the 1st boot device...now...go into the "HARD DISK BOOT PRIORITY" to select the USB drive as your 1st choice to boot from.
from there, save the bios changes and let it boot from the USB drive.
once you see the "C:" prompt, you follow the same above procedures for flashing from a floppy disk....don't forget to edit the RUNME.BAT and ABITFAE.BAT as stated above.
If you use Dr.DOS to create the boot floppy all BIOS files will also fit on the same floppy.
ftp://ftp.abit.com.tw/pub/download/utilities/drdos/
Thanks Ace! I have not flashed my bios yet becuase i didnt fully understand how to. Now to find that damn USB jump drive.
wrong post on wrong thread lol * deleted post *
wrong post on wrong thread lol * deleted post*
Hey guys
I'm getting a "CDBoot - Cannot boot from cd: Code 5"
This happens with (3) of my XP disks, but I have one that actually boots and seems to be working until setup says "Setup is now starting Windows" at which I get a "systemroot/system32/ntdll.dll stop error"
What am I doing wrong here?
Can I ask why anyone REALLY needs 4gb of memory. I don't want to start a heated discussion here but in all reality (real world) is it really necessary? :rolleyes:
Probably not.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
I bought 4 gigs of Ballistix RAM and I'm also building a server PC, and decided that I'm only going to put 2 gigs of it into my current build and 2 gigs into the server build. I already have my X2 3600+ on the way which will be overclocked hardcore =]
Vista.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
(2) video cards, (2) quads & 4gb's all for an OS = :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Forsaken1
:rofl:
Are you using an old HDD with existing data? Zero format the HDD to delete the old data, then set optical drive as the 1st boot. Connect only one HDD and install windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phlash
if you use photoshop or something like it a lot, then you prolly need 4G
I have 4x1G and use vista (not a heavy PS user but do a lot of programming)
I create a ramdisk and put all temp/exchange files there
my mem utilization is usually >80%
Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
what dual boot issue?...i am unfamiliar with that issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by tw33ter
i have the ultima 90 and it fits just fine...it is not the best HS solution...
Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
it was told to me that vista and gamers were going to need 4gb's of memory but 32 bit can not handle 4gb's...you have to go to the 64 bit version.
personally, a waste of money to go to 4gb's unless you are into heavy photoshop or movie making!
Alright I have the side of the case on now so its all closed up.
PWM is now up to 62c after 35 minutes of Orthos, I don't suspect it will get much higher but it is slowly rising. It only reached 55c with the side off. Seems my temps are a bit closer to the norm now with the system all closed up.
I have pretty good airflow though, lots of warm air blowing out the back. It would probably get higher if the GPU were fired up to increase the inside case temp a bit, although that exhausts out the back.
The reported System Temp is 36c and Core Temp is 58c.
E6550 @ 460x7
1.29v
Thermalright SI-128 w/Sharkoon Silent Eagle 2000 120mm
All stock volts.
Ace, I'm going to try Vista again to see if I get any luck. I will load the drivers from the floppy as well.
wasn't your problem with XP before?Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
what is the cfm of that cpu fan?Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
if i am understanding your post, you are trying to run setup from the CDROM or DVDROM and it is giving you that code failure...right?..if so, my best guess is a cable problem or actual CD or DVD drive problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phlash
4gb with 64bit is a good idea, vista will use all the memory it can. Even with 4 gb and superfetch , vista caches all of the 4gb! it loves to cache
there is a diffrence between 2gb and 4gb on x64 vista, you can feel it
Yes my PC is running XP Pro right now. I installed Vista the first time, but I let it load its driver for raid. (the HD Tune graph was a wave LOL) :mad: I then moved to XP without anymore troubleshooting. :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Is the BIOS right?
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/408/untitlednw9.png
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/4...b9e4a7e81e.jpg
I flashed to ID:11, but it shows 10. Is it a bug or did the flash not work? :confused:
Hitting pause during boot does not show me the BIOS version. (maybe I can't see it)
the weird part is orthos is stable for 6 hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
yet everything else crashes, like games..or stutter. Ive tried diffrent video cards already, my memory passes memtest all night.
Iam gonna try not using the raptor and see if some of those rumours are true
btw iam only running 400x9, memory is 1:1, @800mhz. yes having 4gb and trying to run high FSB can be hard, but it shouldnt be at such low FSB. Even with relaxed timings i get these errors in games, and during installs sometimes.
I put an order in for a new psu aswell, its been acting up a lil. could be the root of the issue
maybe there is a vdroop on the mem LOL :D
Reset to default BIOS and retest. This should eliminated the GPU and video drivers.
I am thinking of picking this board .Whats the max FSB this board can go upto on air cooling and WC ?
no droop on memory, iam not even overclocking my memory. IT does this at stock settings aswell,
I took the quadcore out, xfi sound card. USing realtek. just to leave no stone un turned.
put my E6600 back in, only 2gb this time. fully memtested for 10 hours.. no errors yesterday. memory checks out fine in another system aswell.
still problems show up. Bioshock is a mess, bf2 crashes, stutters..all games behave weird.
VDIMM is 2.1v, uguru shows no droop, besides iam not overclocking memory, and running cpu+mem stock still yields these results
its either my PSU taking a dump on me, or the board is FUBAR. wouldnt surprise me with the run of bad boards ive had the past year.
ive had this setup for 3 months almost, when i got back from my vacation i did the bolt through mod, and added a QUAD. Only thing besides dying psu, or mobo. Would be i may have over torqued the Heatpipes, causes board flex, and in turn jacking up the pcie port
the odd thing again is, i can run prime95 and orthos for hours..no problem. Must be a bad pcie port
anyway gonna RMA.
anyone reading this, dont let it put u off on this great board. sometimes :banana::banana::banana::banana: just happens, its probably my own dumb fault.
80% of people seem to have no issues with ip35pro on the forums
I must say after having my Abit IP35 Pro for a couple of weeks now I am very pleased with my decision to purchase this Motherboard:) Very solid board as far as I can see so far!
One thing I should state for the record though, If you do a clear Cmos with the jumper you MUST also clear via the switch on the back of the Motherboard as well or else the data is saved in UGuru and leads to problems kinda like flashing the D.F.I Bios and using a Old Bios Cmos Reloaded saved setting.
brother is right. flip dip, take batt out, move jumper for 10 mins. make sure cord is out of psu
like any mobo, those where the first things i tried in my trouble shooting
looks like i just have a streak of really bad luck.
74cfm, 2000rpm. I think it gets my northbridge and PWM area a little since it blows downward and at a slight angle to all sides.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Is their much difference in Max FSB of the IP35 pro vs IP35 Dark Raider?
Looks like a bug....at least it shows the correct bios date, so you should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/new-b/bios.png
I get the same top speed with my IP35-E and IP35 Pro (488MHz FSB/E6320). IP35-E and IP35 is basically the same MB (minus 1394a and RAID).Quote:
Originally Posted by nzbleach
Also a virtual tie per this latest round up...
http://www.techspot.com/article/61-i...up/page24.html
Thank you. Just the answer I was looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
Neither do I, but what else will I do when UPS's holding my baby hostage!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
*back to page 16 I go* :D
I think I have seen in these pages where it is said you do not need to hook up the 4-pin molex next to the pci-e slot and so far I have not. But I am having all kinds of issues getting a solid stable overclock of any decent speed, even only 3200, 8x400. I can get into Windows at over 3800 and do most anything other than Prime but any kind of stress crashes. I have tried all kinds of voltages up to 1.55 in bios. Raised the mch up at least 3 notches. In fact, the higher I went the worse it seemed to get. Temps are not the problem as the cpu is low 50c's and the PMW is high 50c's. PSU voltages are stable, 12.36 on the 12v line. The reason I ask this is because on my previous system, Asus A8N-SLI with an Opty 165, if you did not have the 4-pin plugged in it caused all kinds of stability issues. This came to me on the way to work and will have to wait until tonight to test. What have others found on this?
My understanding is that the 4-pin Molex is used when you are using CrossFire (x PCIe VGAs). You can always plug it in; wouldn't hurt you at all.
What CPU are you using?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
when i had to use my Abit QuadGT board to hot flash my IP35 Pro bios chip, i used the standard intel heatsink to mount on my "G0" Q6600 to boot it up at default everything...i was surprised, amazed at how much heat was coming off the intel HS being blown down around the surrounding parts of the cpu socket area...made me think that downward flowing air heatsinks are maybe not the best approach for attaining maximum overclock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
cpuz says the same thing for me as it does for you.
the way to find out the bios number installed is push the "Pause Break" key when the first post screen appears...the bios number will be in the upper part of the screen to the left...if you have the abit image screen when it starts up, you will need to go into the bios to disable it so you can see the 1st post screen.
EDIT:...the red arrow is pointing to the bios file installed and the green arrow shows the date of the bios file.
are you using the "11.B04" beta bios?
Both boards use the same core design for the power section. IP35 Pro has an additional circuit to improve overclocking although I didn't see any improvement with my CPUs (E4300 and E6320). Both should be able to push a capable CPU up to 500MHz, which is more than adequate for all current Intel processors. The sweet spot for these chips is 430 to 490MHz FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by nzbleach
The PWM circuit can get toasty with quads. IP35-E's PWM temperature is lower than IP35 Pro under load because it is not connected to the hot NB heat sink. The Pro version uses one heat pipe cooler for the NB, SB, and MOSFET.
AND...if you do my heatpipe mod and add two 40mm fans, that should adequately cool the heat pipe system.
Warm moving air is still better than non-moving air pocket (excellent thermal insulator). As long as the warm air is below the IC temperature, there will be some cooling. Note that the MOSFETs, RAMs, and NB will also benefit with this type of CPU cooler. You don't want the best CPU cooler while neglecting the other major sources of heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I lock-wire a low speed 80mm Panaflo to my BT. Plenty of fresh air to cool the RAM, NB, and SB. Lower NB temp will also translate to lower MOSFET temp when working with IP35 Pro.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
aaaah!:D ...that would be ok outside of the case but inside, door closed you are just perpetuating more heat to be re-circulated.
The Green arrow also indicates BIOS revision. The last two numbers are -00 because it is a BETA, if it was a final then the last two numbers would be that BIOS revision, like -10, or -11. This holds true for every Abit MB I've used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Usually FlashMenu displays BIOS info the same way; -00 indicates BETA. However, at least one of the BETA's was listed as -10.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Ace, show us screenshot of your temps with this mod please, I'm curious to how they compare to my setup with just fans blowing on heatpipe and NB
Thanks
http://aycu40.webshots.com/image/259...2374783_rs.jpghttp://aycu35.webshots.com/image/264...8912810_rs.jpg
That's the job of front and rear 120 x 38 mm fans. These fans will ramp up with increasing CPU temp. The goal is to achieve air circulation inside the case...front to back. Dead air pocket is BAD.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
A case with a side vent will also significantly improve the cooling performance of a downward-firing CPU cooler. Room temperature air is ducted to the CPU cooler. This room air is at least 5 to 7C cooler than the case air. All else being constant, your CPU will run 3 to 4C cooler.
any temps (images) that i have are currently outside of the case...i posted the prime 95 image several pages back showing the temp of the CPU & PWM but again it was outside of the case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
i have one 120mm in front ripping at 2.5K (110 cfm) and two in the rear also ripping at 2.5K and 110 (cfm)...i have a tornado going on inside of the case.:p:
:yepp: hmm after all the messing around ive done
setting Affinity too 2 cpus in bioshock and bf2..seems to have fixed the godamn issue. running all 4 cores stutters bad, enabling 2 smooth as silk
MOH airborne demo runs perfect regardless. Kind of strange, i was under the impression that was a thing of the past. Remeber AMD dual core patchs? etc
I even enabled C1E&EIST @ 3.6ghz, 1.51 set bios vcore..stuck all 4 gb back in@800mhz. Issue seems fixed by setting Affinity manually.
I played for a short period thouggh. iam skeptical, its prolly just a fluke. gonna go to frys n exchange the board anyway hehe
God I cannot stand that FRY'S Store in Las Vegas! Actually I have boycotted FRY'S period !
Hey Ace, do you think you could post a link in your sig for your heat pipe mod? I think as this thread grows it will help people out, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Saw Fugger clocked his monster QX6850 with a IP35 PRO. And he had B04 bios, is that the latest ?
Another question for anyone. Is 33 amps on the 12v output enough? I am trying to think of any reason I am having such a hard time with this Q6600. My Powerstream is spec'd at 33 amps for the 12v. I am not sure if it has duel rails or not, can't remember. But it is the SLI model I do know that the 12v output is holding steady at 12.36. I am grasping at anything I can think of.
Where did you get the 12.36 reading from?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
uGuruQuote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
33 amps ain't much when eVga says you need 26 amps for the 8800GTS. Doesn't leave a lot left over.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
is this what you wanted?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
i think uguru is reading that incorrectly...you need to measure your 12V rail at the cpu ATX power receptacle and the the 24 pin power plug...mine has like a +0.18 error in uguru...it's about the only thing uguru is reporting incorrectly...5v & 3v rails have the input error but not as large as the 12v rail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
that's the "11.B04" beta bios...there has been two beta bios files released after that one.
Well, first, I don't know that the 8800GTS uses 26a all by it's lonesome; I think that's a very liberal base eVGA recommends. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
I myself have a 3x 12v rail system with a cumulative 38a, which isn't much more than yours and that single rail is better (less 'wasted' energy).
While uGuru is great, I don't know how much I would trust if for straight rail ratings; do you have a voltmeter? If so, measure your 12v line directly and see how it looks.
Also might want to consider updating the BIOS to the newest official at very least.
good luck with the replacement!Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
I'll also make note that the regular IP35 does have the PWM and NB connected with a heatpipe. It's just the E that doesn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
Also, take a look at the capacitors. They are different between all 3 boards, getting progressively bigger the more you spend :p:
And about the HSF...like he said, moving air is better than non-moving air as long as it isn't "too" warm, and it won't be. I have a 120mm fan on the side supplying fresh air, although I don't feel like its enough. Thing is, I don't think I can get better cooling without a lot more noise.
I'll also note that the board layout is great, and even with the heatpipes and heatsinks abound, I can mount my SI-128 in any direction. It doesn't matter if its north, south, east or west, it fits. I'll see if the same holds true for my Enzotech Ultra-X, which is a similar design but even better.
Hi I'm going to get this motherboard soon but out of curiosity I would like to know if the cooling system really uses a heatpipe, I suppose this question is directed to cLOUDFAn unless anybody else is mad enough to saw their heatpipe in half.
i'll be interested in hearing your experience with the enzotech ultra xQuote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
no need to cut your heatpipe....just follow the links below to see my heatpipe mod which doesn't destroy it; just refines the cooling ability.
the replacement seems to be running fine. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I was right, i was a gorilla when i did the bolt through. After unmounting the board, one side sprung up like crazy, it had an arch near the pcie/NB area. didnt seem that way when installing.
If i do the bolt through again, ill be more gentle with the ole screwdriver
hey ace do you know of a waterblock for pwm's? ive been looking around lately cant seem to find one
i was thinking of running a 2 RAD loop just for the NB/PWM, GPU.
I guess i could use the thermalright mosfet cooler. and watercool NB/GPU.
Throw a extremespirit on the SB.
pwm temps are out of this world
so, you torqued the heck out of the bolts...hmmmm...i'll try not to stand next to you in a bar when you get mad...LOL
Ace, thanks for the sig update, thats exactly what I meant :up:
I've got no intention of destroying it, I'm just a curious person, but as thermalright doesn't make a complete set for the IP-35 Pro if somebody did decide to replace it they'd have to cut it to use the mosfet part - ironic considering the mosfet temperatures are what people are complaining aboutQuote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I've had every intention of doing your mod since page... well after reading 84 pages page numbers are easy to forget.
Do you have a link for CPU-Z v. 1.41? The latest versionQuote:
Originally Posted by Knight
at http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php is: 140.5.
Thermalright MOSFET HS does NOT fit the ABIT IP35 PRO.Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
I was going by the recommendations for the 26a. I know something is meesing with my attempts buy I can't seem to narrow it down. I am already running the 11 bios but is does weird things with my memory. If I set the mem ratio at default it goes to DDR1200. 1:1 gives what it should as do 1:1.2. This all stared after reseating my hs last Saturday. I would swear that is way better before that. On Ace's recommendation I even tried pulling all the power and the battery for 15-20 minutes on a reset but that didn't help. I may just try a reflash to see what happens. As far as checking voltages I will have to find my 10' DVI cable in order to get the case out to a point I can do that. I am really begining to think I had this in a Tech Station instead of the Stacker until I get things sorted out. I am going to also try hooking up the 4-pin molex just to eliminate that from the equation.Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
I'd be interested to see if that will help out. I'd be inclined to think "No", but hey - it's the world of computers, I've seen weirder crap happen. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
Good luck & let us know what you find out! :banana3:
Link:Quote:
Originally Posted by vailr
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=156990
:) Hope it works for you. :)
WELL!;) ...look at my signature...SURPRISE!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by K20
Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
I did that too, but before I put it back in, I noticed it was really bent. I backed them all off just to the point where it would it go flat. Seems to work.:up:
Gah I really wanna try this board, but the lack of aftermarket cooling for the pwm's are pushing me to asus p5k region. I have a dual loop case that includes cooling the NB. EK should come out with some blocks for this board or at the very least thermalright should remake the hr-09 to fit this board as well.
Looks like your sig is already helping people Ace :p: :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
Mines getting chopped up in the next couple of weeks if I manage to do my mod... If its a real heatpipe there should be some sort of liquid inside right?
Anybody know if the heatpipe is copper or something else?