Ooohhhh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
Got it. So they all bow the same, but it's your choice on how much flow you want. And the 5.5 (opending size) has the highest flow.
Thanks man!
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Ooohhhh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
Got it. So they all bow the same, but it's your choice on how much flow you want. And the 5.5 (opending size) has the highest flow.
Thanks man!
So, has anyone got any idea for a good starting point with regard to hole shape / size for the nozzle, just to try and narrow it down a bit as it could turn out to be a pretty lengthy job having to re-fit and test each time??
X?
2 parallel lines II?
The block has already been bowed in the thread, nothing really got better since the Storm, things just changed and different designs worked better due to IHS and multiple/large dies.Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx
I've been thinking of these:Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
-A single line slot type nozzle 1/16" wide as wide as the nozzle will go.
-Second would be a rectangular array of smaller holes that would line up with the pins gaps. Maybe 1/16" or 1/32". Maybe three rows worth as far as the nozzle will go. Actually I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better to have holes that line up directly on top of each pin? If the nozzle holes are large enough it would send little nozzle jets of water right over the surface of each pin. That might be pretty hard to do practically, but it would be interesting.
-Third may be a quad nozzle type, maybe just two 4mm holes that are adjacent to each other.
I created a shower head style for my fuzion a while back, and so it looks as if it performs better than the 4.5mm nozzle, so I think the smaller circle only doens't really perform as well as a nozzle that's more specifically directing flows at the die locations.
Anyhow, I finished up the stock thermal testing last night on this block, now I need to run my Fuzion completely stock for a comparison, but I think they are pretty close. I'm anxious to see how it does once bowed and nozzled..:up:
Martin, would you say that a D-Tek nozzle would fit in the MC-TDX, maybe by just dropping it down the inlet barb?
Stepping the block might hurt the effectiveness of the outer pins depending on the thickness of the base.
This block could very easily be bowed but I think it would require a new top made from brass.
I considered building a brass top for the fusion with four sealed set screws that would allow for adjustable bow on-the-fly so you could watch the effect bowing has on temperature in real time, in addition to warping the bow geometry to match your particular IHS. If done right it should have less effect on flow or performance than the improvement it may give. You could bow individually for each core. :)
I ran the idea by Martin and a few others a while back but haven't gotten around to it. This block looks like a very good candidate for such a thing.
From the small bit I know about fluid and thermal dynamics, I think that having a showerhead type nozzle with the holes blowing directly over the pins would be ideal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
I could stick the block on the CNC and sharpen the tips of the pins (like a pencil) with a 60 degree chamfer bit so that the water wasn't essentially running straight into a wall (the end of the pin). The very center pins would need to be shortened down a bit and the nozzle would need to be correspondingly longer in the very center to acheive optimum pressure characteristics IMO.
For some reason I have a thing for the base of this block (I think the top/mounting plate is stinky) but with a nice brass or delrin top and the proper nozzle and bow adjustments we could probably turn it into a killer. I am offering up my help with the CNC mill if anyone would like to collaborate. :up:
Danger Den offers a brass top. You can order it when you get the block for an additional $8.
Hmmm, didn't know that... with what I have in mind I'll likely be better off making one from scratch rather than modding the stock top. Plus I don't dig the "X" look of the mounting method.Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] DragonOrta
Count me in for rebuilding this thing too. I'm very interested to see what you guys come up with...
Does anyone have a .skp of this thing? If so, I can model what we want to build and try out some stuff...
The outside circumference of the D-Tek nozzle is 9.75mm and the ID of a Danger Den barb is 10.12mm so it wobbles around quit a bit inside and would let water flow around the nozzle but if you swapped the Danger Den Barbs to EK with an ID of 9.85mm it fits much better though not perfect, plus you will be relying on the water flow to keep it in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] DragonOrta
Worth a go though!
Good idea. I think I'll try that too.Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
I also thought about taking some heat shrink tubing and shrinking a short section over the outside of the D-tek nozzle to add some diameter to it. That might make it nice and snug.:shrug:
Heatshrink tubing is great since it's a kind of rubber so it won't slip ;)
Good to know. Especially since I've got like 5 EK barbs laying around. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
There's the solution right there which would be perfect for Danger Den barbs...........just don't overheat the shrink wrap incase you melt the nozzle :eek: - plus it wouldn't bow the base.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Not knowing there was a topic about bowing the MC-TDX I bowed my own (standard, not MC) TDX.
It wasn't my intention at first because I just wanted to get rid of the foam-like bushing between the fitting and the accelerator nozzle.
I had a couple of spare accelerator nozzles so I just modified one to stack on top of the other. The modified nozzle is the replacement of the foam-like bushing.
Some pictures to give you a clue whats going on:
http://xs123.xs.to/xs123/08032/img_0...102.jpg.xs.jpg http://xs123.xs.to/xs123/08032/img_0...699.jpg.xs.jpg
When stacked on top of each other its just as high as the copper block, so when the Lucite top is screwed on, the nozzles are loose (not secure).
I took a piece of neoprene/foam and cut it the roughly the same shape as the modified accelerator nozzle and placed it on top. (sorry, no picture from that).
When I then screwed the lucite top on, the base of the TDX suddenly got bowed :D.
Some pictures:
http://xs123.xs.to/xs123/08032/img_0...223.jpg.xs.jpg http://xs123.xs.to/xs123/08032/img_0...113.jpg.xs.jpg http://xs123.xs.to/xs123/08032/img_0...580.jpg.xs.jpg
Temps just dropped like 3~6C Idle and Load !!
Quote:
Originally Posted by WoutZoR
Nice work!
I have a standard TDX with nozzle #1 sitting here that's next up for thermal testing, then I'm going to have some fun with the nozzles and bowing....Maybe stepping too:up:
Thanks :toast:,Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Looking forward to your results since I don't have good head to head comparisons between stock and modified (bowed) base on my new board and loop.
Happy testing/modding :D
Hate to bring up a kinda old thread, but I found this googling and would like to know if the OP had any luck temp-wise with his selfmade nozzles?
Worth trying to make some myself with no real tools other then a dremmel?
Havn't run it yet, the MC-TDX is optimal on a quad core which I didn't have at the time. I'm guessing it'll be hard to measure if I couldn't really measure any gain from nozzles on the fuzion V2.
Still working on getting my new motherboard waterblocks in order and my quad core overclocked before I do any testing on a quad. I had also switched to radiator testing for a while until I get caught up there first.
ahh well I was just wondering. I'm using one on a E3110
Please post when you do get some testing done