How is your cpu PLL 1.4 when stock is 1.8?Quote:
Originally Posted by kill_a_wat
Printable View
How is your cpu PLL 1.4 when stock is 1.8?Quote:
Originally Posted by kill_a_wat
Running 4.2 Ghz on my 920 is silly anyway. 3.8 Ghz works with 1.3v, 4.0 Ghz works with 1.325v, and 4.2 Ghz requires around 1.375v - 1.4v and doesnt like working and gets much too hot in summer weather :(.
My chip just seems limited to 4.0 Ghz, any higher is difficult to keep working without any problems.
lower pll helps overclocking;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilyin
if you can get away with lower voltages its greatQuote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Flowerday
try the xtra juice n see if you get improvements;)
1.55 and 1.26
if no improvement go back to your voltages
i bet your not overclocked past 4.2
as soon as i go to -4.2 i'm good but i cant take bein so low
heh 4.2 is not slow though, for daily its overkill I think.
As for CPU PLL my chip seems to like lower PLL more, if I try 1.8 I get instant LinX fail
Ive seen other 3003B242 batches use ~1.4 as well, maybe depends on batch aswell
Not sure where I'll see the improvment, FPS?Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
1.26 on what?
No I'm only at 4.0 right now, I'm on air, so I'll probably go up to 4.14 and call it a day. At 4.0 I'm running super cool right now @ 1.287 vcore.
I actually run my 980X at 1.2v PLL @ 4.35. Dropping PLL really improved stability with lower vcore and also reduced linxing temperatures aswell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilyin
That's with extreme cooling though?Quote:
Originally Posted by usz
Under water, all in one loop (mips ram, supreme hf, re3 block, fc5870) with PA120.4 rad (gt 1850 in push) and D5 pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by kill_a_wat
interesting I'll give it a try a bit later...thanks
Hi guys, I got a major problem, my watercooled system is complete. 800d case with 2 loops cooling 980x with XT, MB with EK wb. and 2x gtx480s. And after wondering why SLI fails I figured out that my 3rd PCIE slot is dead. I've seen someone on forums with the same problem... But the board was bought thru Newegg and shipped to europe ( where I'm at now). So reinstaling the WB and shipping it back. And then getting another one shipped back to me looks like a big hustle. Is this a known issue, any chance I can get it fixed localy?
i was crunchin with my 980x @ 4.3 on air i hit 65c maxQuote:
Originally Posted by kill_a_wat
I don't mean to disrespect you or anything, but did you maybe flipped pci-e switch near on-board reset button?Quote:
Originally Posted by Performance
I was going to say the same thing, I have not read about anyone having a pcie slot down, check the switches ( row of 4) !
:) no...Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarkoni
it's just dead :( and no visible damage
Well, so far so good on 4.2Ghz (133 x 31 for 4138). Past 30m of Linpack, still got 30m to go. So what does CPU PLL control? Also, just an FYI, adding the EK NB block to the stock heatsink lowered my NB/SB temps by about 12c. I will still probably go with the Koolance FB block, but for now that will have to do.
Assuming it passes Linpack, should I raise the multi or start raising the BCLK? Any benefit to raising the BCLK?
Thanks.
I've fixed that DDR3 2000 no POST with 1N/2N thing BY CHANGING DRAM Read to pretime to 3 (default was 9) and now the R3E runs like a charm with the Blade DDR3 2000 CL9 , it is even better than the Gigabyte EX58-EXTREME regarding Memory OC and performance
With Gigabyte I could only put the RAM at 9-9-9-28-114-1N with 1.575v QPI but with R3E I put the RAM at 9-9-9-24-98-1T with 1.48v QPI :up:
I also got the Noctua NH-D14 with AC MX-3 replacing that aweful OCZ Vendetta 2 with AC MX-2 and temps went down 10-11 C :eek:
Still my Case is crap and waiting eagerly for CM HAF X :up:
Some pics :
http://i46.tinypic.com/behs43.jpg
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/9987/img3221f.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/2iazh4j.jpg
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/895/img3224m.jpg
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2493/img3228e.jpg
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3097/img3229.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6360/chartyj.jpg
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4156/r3ez.jpg
I've noticed something rather strange :
With the old cooler there was no POST over 222 BCLK but with the Noctua it booted @ 225 BCLK but boot was very slow and there was no stability whatsoever
I've also replaced the NB/SB TIM and temps are in 62 C :( Is that because of my case;s lack of good air flow?
Now I need to do 4.4Ghz OC :D
Your stock heatsink (NB/SB) may not be getting good contact. I have read some putting a third screw in the heatsink, for whatever reason it looks like Asus left one off, so you could try that. But also, not having any air blowing across it may be hindering the cooling.
just cooling the nb does a great job "its got a heatpipe so coolsa all 3 spots"Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
raise the blk to what memory setting speed you want to do
no benifit with the 980x with 920 different story
you dont need 1.8v on cpu pll 1.4 is fine;)
That's right , I've seen it too and it felt rather strangeQuote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
I've recently ordered one for a i7 940 (got cpu dirt cheap). With very great airflow in a case does one need to use the little fan the rage comes with?
I'll be using a d14 cooler. Also is the little fan loud?
Thanks :D
It will reduce the NB/SB temps by quite a few and it isn't loud per se, but it makes a whining noise that annoyed me, which is why I went to water cooling it.
I am actually running just 1.2v on PLL. It's stable, so my next move will be to raise the multi. Temps are great on the 980x so I have a lot of headroom in that respect.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
I'll have to try a lower PLL now too and see if that helps =D
Love this board! It's so easy to push :D
http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...yerxx/7815.jpg
WoW:up: Great result....Please can you please share your settings?And your hardware....THX.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by bassplayer
Very nice clock there Bassplayer, excellent tweaking and CPU :)
I got a message in my mailbox this morning, made a quick resumé :
It's regarding working with the 0704 bios:
1)Asus made a change, to not adjust the Uncore Ratio automatically (this was AUTO done before, to improve the performance gain after OC. )
So remember to adjust the Uncore Ratio when overclocking with this latest 0704 BIOS.
2)For Sub-Zero OC, please try the new Subzero Booster, in case you hit a wall when pushing it.
Darn I need LN2 !!!
Will lower CPU PLL voltage work with the i7 920 too ? :confused:
Anyone has the problem of not being able to load the system with it's saved bios settings ? I have the bios version 0602 and the 4. Both of them give this msg on boot up NEW CPU installed F1 to setup or F2 to load default. and no matter how many times I go with F1 save the changes it keeps giving same MSG the only wya to boot is with F2- load the defaults.
And still cant get my PCIE 3rd slot to work. I was trien to change PCI plugnplay to YES in bios , thinking it might help in anythign but i cant even save the changes... did CLEAR the CMOS and PCI switches are ON... BAD MOBO ? any idea how to fix it ?
My setup consists of 980x with 2x EVGA gtx480 ftw 6g Cosair dominator GT 2k mhz, Crucial 256 RealSSD SATA 3 (6gb) Did place a EK WB on mobo and Swiftech XT on CPU. I did try to place the working GPU in PCIE3 (to test the slot) but it didnt post.
Any Ideas?
Thanks man. If you're using a 920, dice will get you just as far as LN2 will from my experiences.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Next session I'm going to try to get a little higher. I just ran out of time on that last one. And maybe I'll upgrade to 0704...
Vinsent, I'll share what I can remember right now as I'm at work.
The processor is a brand new (I just got it yesterday) Xeon W3520 (Xeon version of the 920) batch 3943B.
The memory is OCZ Platinum 1600 with stock timings of 7-7-7-20. Luckily, this stuff will do 2060 at 8-8-8 24 with 1.73V. After that I have to go to 8-9-8 24.
Voltage for the CPU was set at 1.65V in BIOS. I'm sure that wasn't necessary, but after it froze at 5.1GHz with 1.6V I just took it a couple steps higher. Beyond that, things were pretty standard except for having QPI Slow Mode enabled. I was booting at 240 BCLK and adjusting from there. Temperatures were between -50°C and -40°C.
I'll see if I can get higher soon and I'll post my BIOS template for those that are interested. I'll probably have a session this weekend.
EDIT: This was on dice, btw.
Hi
Can someone share information about what revision sell at egg atm ?
Thanx!
Its working for me, I reduced it to 1.25 - 1.325v and my temps are a few degrees lower.Quote:
Originally Posted by minaelromany
There's only one revision; Rev. 1.04GQuote:
Originally Posted by GunGod
Thanks for the info on the lowering of CPU PLL. I would've never guessed or thought to try lowering voltage for overclocking purposes. I'll give that a shot when I get home.
Try a reflash of the bios and see if 704 fixes the issues for you. If not, give Asus a call and they can do an advanced RMA where they ship you a replacement board first and then you ship yours back to them. That way you are not completely down the entire time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Performance
Voila un premier test de ma rampage
Max freq
http://just.dod.it.free.fr/RIIIE/920.jpg
Super pi 32M
http://just.dod.it.free.fr/RIIIE/spi%2032m.jpg
3dmark vantage
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5939/5970t.th.jpg
marcolecorse, how were you able to get your clocks so high without QPI Slow Mode enabled? Which BIOS were you using?
Where do u get this latest bios ? (0704)
Or is it the old 2009 bios for the older version of asus boards?
Can anyone guide me thru updating it with DL links? This board is getting annoying for me :( ... Can only load windows with default bios settings cause it finds new CPU every time I load. and asks me to reenter bios with f1 or f2 to load.
+ PCI 3 slot not working so I'm stack with just 1x gtx480.
BTW in PCI plugNplay options under BIOS is disabled... I was wondering if I can get lucky to have it SAVED enabled. will my second GPU show up in device manager. even tho I doubt it will make the PCIE slot work at all
Do a bios reset with the button back by the USB ports. Then intall 704.Quote:
Originally Posted by Performance
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=253679
If you haven't accidentally turned PCI-X 3 slot off with the motherboard sliders on/off sliders and it still doesn't work after the bios update. RMA the board.
The board arrived today.:up:
Will install it this weekend, its a nice looking board.:yepp:
My first stupid question, more to come Im sure. I am using a PSU with dual 8pin's for the CPU, is this fine to connect both?
use two if its not too much hassle, but one is fine for 4.4-4.5Ghz (that I tested with my 980x) :)
I love this board
http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/2905/4200.png
Thank you for the very fast response.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by kill_a_wat
I have to say this board along with the red and black 5870 and Dominator GT's look extremely sexy.
np :up: gotta love these mobo XS threads so useful....like the PLL settings, 3N settings in BIOS etc etc :cool:
Ok, so something I have always noticed with Asus PC Probe software (All my past boards have had this issue), even on past models, it seems that whenever you start overclocking PCP will start setting off alarms for voltage fluctuations, i.e. IOH voltage drops to .1v, etc. Everest never shows these fluctuations and the alarm will clear up in a few seconds, but I am wondering if anyone else has this issue, anyone know what causes this and is there a fix for it?
Thanks.
I thought that PCP conflicts with other monitor software.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
PCP occcasionally reports bogus warnings ".01v" when CPU-Z is running(and probably several warnings during CPU-Z starting period).
Open a lot of other monitor software, and you will see PCP reports ".01v" every minute.;)
Gotcha, so either PCP or something else, but not both. Ok, thanks.
OFFICIALLY 0704 R3E BIOS:
ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LG...-ASUS-0704.zip
Where ? it is not on their sitesQuote:
Originally Posted by Ramguy
The link works but the link is no where on Asus Global / USA or Taiwan sites :confused:
-------------------------------------
Edit : Why do I always get Workers stopped with Prime95 Blend tests ?!
Bonjour Marco.....which bios are you using for this wonderful result......:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by marcolecorse
Hello
Bios Beta 704 :)
It's FTP, usually webbies are updated later... For ya prime95 error : unstability ? not enough QPI voltage ? too tight B2B ?Quote:
Originally Posted by minaelromany
Bonjour Marco......I have serious problems over 8000 QPI for my xeon w3520.Please who is your secret for your hight QPI.In other main my xeon boot never problem at 228 BCLK and 4104 QPI.Please Marco.....:worship:Quote:
Originally Posted by marcolecorse
I'm sorry I have a bad english... can't understand ur problemQuote:
Originally Posted by Vinsent
It seems like the older 0704 Beta BIOS (the same .zip filename) so I'll wait for the official BIOS from the official site before flashing from the few-hours-flashed-0704 Beta-BIOS :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
As for Prime95 Blend worker stops :
It was always the case with me !
First with Asus P6T and Core i7 920 (391 batch) and OCZ Platinum DDR3 1600 CL7
Then with Gigabyte EX58-EXTREME and the same 920 and the same RAM
Then with Gigabyte EX58-EXTREME and Core i7 920 (384 batch) and the same RAM
Then with Gigabyte EX58-EXTREME and Core i7 920 (384 batch) and OCZ Blade DDR3 2000 CL9
Then with Rampage III Extreme and Core i7 920 (384 batch) and the same RAM
!!!
Blend or Large FFTs always give Worker stopped error while Small FFTs runs very well
I've tried raising the QPI voltage every time with no success
Just wanted to report back. Dropped the CPU PLL from 1.8 to 1.45. Haven't seen any stability issues but not really noticing much difference in temps either (watercooled 980x at 4035, 1.26 vcore). Might try dropping it lower and see what happens.
Bonjour Marco .... J'ai de sérieux problèmes de plus de 3960 QPI.Quel est votre secret pour une grande QPI fréquence.Dans d'autres Mainboard mon W3520,démarre sans problèmes a 228 BCLK et QPI a 4104.Quote:
Originally Posted by marcolecorse
désolé pour mon mauvais français....:shrug:
Quote:
Originally Posted by minaelromany
It will take s2-3 days until, they will post the new BIOS on the site. Now it`s available just on the FTP. With the 0602, was the same story....
Yeah the coders actually use the FTP sites to save their work and then fire off emails to the webmasters to have the new file included on the regular websites. This process usually takes days even weeks sometimes.Quote:
Originally Posted by minaelromany
I took mine to 1.2v and haven't had a single issue. Passed Linpack and has been crunching for 2 days straight. As far as temps go, if I had to guess it was a drop of 2-3 degrees, nothing major, but in TX everything helps right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilyin
Been pimping up my computer last couple of days, got myself the mobo block, and WOW what a difference.
Before (This is with the aditional heatsink, MX-3 and a Sythe silent 40mm fan)
Idle:
NB - 60C
SB - 50C
Load:
NB - 75C
SB - 67C
After
Idle:
NB 36C
SB 35C
Load:
NB 40C
SB 39C
Now that's what I am talking about! Even though it's one of the hotest days of the year :D
EDIT: The latest 704 BIOS is now on the ASUS FTP website, sorry if someone has already mentioned it, just saw it :).
NathObeaN~ is this mobo block on water? Right? What type of water-cooling rig are you using? Just curious as I am about ready to order the EK full-cover motherboard block. From what I've read in here, the block makes a huge difference, but I'm very limited in space in my Fortress FT02-BW case.
Hopefully someone in here will give me some advice as to what other components I should be looking at for this build :p:
Does stock Asus R3E suck for NB/SB cooling ?Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN
I ask this because with the old Gigabyte EX58-Extreme I was getting very good NB/SB temps (lower than R3E in 15-20 C range !!!) , so should we all buy blocks for R3E to keep the temps in an acceptable range ? :rolleyes:
I put the beefy stock add on my NB and runs good :)
mine is at 40c/40c fresh from the box
you would be well advised to remove the stock heat pipe and re-do the thermal compund, everyone who has done this gets an improvement.
historicly asus havent been to good at using quality compounds, on the R3E it seems they have tried to surpass all other efforts and use ear wax !!, its horrible stuff and a bugger to get off but well worth the trouble.
my self I went in with the ek full block right off the bat.
if you are limited for space have you considered adding a rad that runs outside the case, many ppl do this (me for one) if the rig is not used for lan parties etc, often the best route to go down as you cant beat clean air outside the case and it opens up the possiblities of lager rads !Quote:
Originally Posted by AKHandyman
So far this board requires more voltage to get stable at the same clocks than my UD7. Still need to tweak setting some more maybe.
ATM setup is as follows:Quote:
Originally Posted by AKHandyman
Pump/block - Swiftech MCP 655 w/ EK rev2 Top
Res - EK 250v2
Rad 1 - XSPC RX360 - Dual layer Akasa apache fans
Rad 2 - XSPC RX120 - Single Akasa apache fan
Mobo block - EK Acteal R3E waterblock
CPU Block - Heatkiller Rev 3.0 CPU block
Fluid - TFC Feaser One fluid (just over 1litre)
That is with a 930 on the loop clocked at 4GHz @ 1.29V and the NB is currently on auto at 1.16V
I somehow find that hard to believe, so you are saying that your NB/SB chipset ran at equal to or lower than ambient temperature? Either you live inside a fridge or your temp probes didn't work properly lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by minaelromany
I added the EK NB block on top of the stock and my temps stay in the 40's for both my NB and SB. Before with the fan they were in the mid 50's. I am debating on getting the Koolance FC block, but I haven't seen any pics of it mounted yet. I need to know where the bottom port sets in relation to the PCIe slots.
Oh believe you me, I have done some outrageous stuff. I had a project going on that was really awesome for cooling, but the wife kind of frowned on the whole deal. She made me take it down when we had to temporarily occupy the workroom last year. Here's the link to my post in the liquid cooling case gallery.Quote:
Originally Posted by fmsam
AK's Arctic Breezeway
I don't want to really mess with attaching the radiator and reservoir on the outside of this FT02-BW if I can help it. Although I do have a few ideas if I do go the "outside of the case" route, it'll be sometime later down the road as I have way too many other "honey-do" projects that the wife wants done around the house ... :(
I hear ya'
Always a good idea to keep the Mrs happy, then maybe she wont pay so much attetion to what your up to....................................maybe !!
great set up there, shame you had to take it down :-( Noctua for the win every time,
I meant that Gigabyte Extreme had 15-20 lower temps for NB/SB than R3EQuote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN
Gigabyte : 40-45 (Max ~50 C) with QPI ~1.575v
Asus R3E : 55-65 (Max ~70 C) with QPI ~ 1.488v
Even my old Asus P6T never had those horrible R3E NB/SB temps !
BTW : I've removed the stock heat pipe block before installing the Noctua NH-D14 and that "ear wax" was a nightmare to remove , then applied some AC MX-2 and temps went down by 8-10 degrees but it is still very high for my liking
Unfortunately the optional HS with fan would not go along with the Noctua , so I put the fan om the shorter HS :
http://i49.tinypic.com/295g1ea.jpg
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4517/img3229ve.jpg
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/895/img3224m.jpg
That little fan isn't going to help much. You need to point a 120mm fan between your GPU and CPU cooler and push some cool air there, along with moving the hot air towards to your exhaust fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by minaelromany
I don't get above 52-55 full load and idle just below 50 with this config. Nothing but the short stock NB heatsync.
I have 2 questions concerning the R3E.
1. I see from the photos of the R3E has the lotes cpu socket but mine has no "lotes" stamped on it.
2. I seem to have a vga card issue. Occasionally I see a stripe of garbo about 1 inch thick across the screen on the desktop. I did not have any prob. with any 3d games & 3dmark. I lowered the cpu blk from 197mhz to 133mhz and the issue seems to be gone. Can this be a mb issue ?
Thanks.
This mother board rocks, I have noproblems at all...
Overclocks very easy.
2 c300 64 ssd for stripped raid 0
just installed the 2x 64 gb and used raid and achi in bios.
run tests and there so slow its scary.
using rampage 3 using onboard 6gb sata.
can any1 shed any light here.
even used diskpart align 1024 before makeing raid 0.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/4...2010125523.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
tried 64kb and 32kb when making raid dont change anything.
even used intel rapid response drivers same slow performance.
Things to take into account:Quote:
Originally Posted by minaelromany
The Giga has much bigger heatinks
The QPI doesn't really effect the NB, the QPI is a direct link between the CPU and RAM, the NB isn't used. The IOH voltages are what will effect the temperature of the NB, so you may well have higher IOH voltages on your R3E as well.
The thermal shutdown for the IOH/ICH is 100C, if yours isn't breaking past 70C, that isn't exactly a "horrible" temperature. Depends on what voltages you are using though.
Took the 960 out and installed my 920, this is where I'm at now. Everest and CPUz do not read the same vcore for whatever reason. The chip needed 1.392vcore load and 1.340v QPI/VTT bios on my UD7, but if Everest is correct It is about the same, IOH core was 1.140v and CPU PLL 1.140v on the UD7. I havent had the board long enough to do a lot of tweaking so it is not a fair to compare the 2 yet. Sorry for the large screenshot.
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/1097/captureyr.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Well the rampage 3 6gb sata is a pile of crap.
formatted again and used normal sata not 6gb and get this.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/4...2010153512.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9...2010154435.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
makes me angry does this.
The R3E would be better than Giga UD7? Thanks!
What are you going to use it for and with what hardware?Quote:
Originally Posted by _AntLionBR_
Core i7 960 ESQuote:
Originally Posted by Linuxfan
3x2GB Team Xtreem DDR3-1600
Zotac GTX 470
Rest of the system, the signature below.
They will both work great with your hardware. You may want to get the R3E because of its color scheme over the UD7's blue or you might get the UD7 because its cheaper. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by _AntLionBR_
What are you looking for in the boards? The Rampage III Extreme probably has more features and overclocking options. :D
So far I havent been able to get stable with similar voltages on this board as I was on the UD7, still tweaking though. For 24/7 Stability I think the Giga UD7 is hard to beat, this RIIE may be a better overclockers board though for the extreme user.Quote:
Originally Posted by _AntLionBR_
My Linx Run failed at 9 passes, now I have gone up on voltages and is still failing. There are some settings in the bios I need to play around with that may help stability.
I plan to overclock the 4.5GHz i7 960 24/7, or at least close to this clock. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Linuxfan
The Gigabyte UD7 was very solid in my testing as well. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
Should be a good 24/7 board.
I hope you got a better 960 than I did, mine is the bsod king. I've had a very hard time getting it stable at anything past 4.3, 4.4 requires a ton of voltage but it is a cool running chip so heat hasnt become a problem yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by _AntLionBR_
What cooling do you have? I have a Heatliller 3.0 and the EK R3E block on the same loop and my temperatures are about the same as yours. But my voltages are only 1.29 on the CPU and temps are a little higher :(.Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
CPU PLL is at 1.2 now, with no adverse effects aside from the fact that Asus Probe complains about it. If I can get 4.2 stable with around 1.3 vcore I'm stopping there. 6 cores at that speed will rip everything I do to shreds.
My only complaint about this board is the lack of coaxial optical sound output. I'm going to have to rethink my PC home theater setup because of this, or find an addon for it. Ridiculous not to have it onboard though imo.
I am using the Swiftech XT block, XSPC rx360 rad, mcp655. Im not watercooling the board but I have major fans on it, 2xscythe 133cfm's and an external house fan I use for stress testing.Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN
Ah that explains it, I thought judging by your temps on the NB/SB you had a waterblock on it :up:.Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
You think the 4.5GHz UD7 would not be able to get stable? That's it?Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
Here with the i7 960, the little I tried, I could get with a 4.2GHz with 1.272v (with Foxconn BR), did not even try more than that because I had to sell the BR. Now I'm looking for a new MB, and chosen by me would be R3E or UD7.Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
Here in Brazil the heat is too much. 25~30C degree ambient, the program LinX temperature reaches 85C @4.2GHz 1.272v. Complicated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by _AntLionBR_
I think if your chip is capable of doing 4.5ghz the ud7 would be a great choice, I am still working on 4.5 with the RIIE but in all fairness I have only had the board 3 days now and I had a couple months to play with the UD7. I am also biased towards Gigabyte because I have had my best "stable" results with them, so my suggestion to you may not be fair to this board. Others with more experience using the RIIIE and other boards may have better input to help in your decision.
My first try using a DMM, it looks like Everest is right and CPUZ reads vcore wrong. With 1.44375v set in bios using the 50%LLC setting CPUZ reads load vcore at 1.432v and Everest and the DMM read at 1.401v. A new toy to play with, this could be fun.
Maybe a cpuz revision will fix this. That was the case also with cpuz back when i bought my R2E. However cpuz 1.54 reads right.
There is only a difference of $30 between the UD7 and the RE3, so I would get the RE3 for the extra features. However, if you are planning on doing water cooling then the UD7 comes with the NB water block. It also has the better NB air cooler. So if temps are an issue for you, then you may need to consider these things. On the flip side, you have ROG connect, PCIe disable switches for trouble shooting and benchmarking and a plethora of other features.
i tested a few 950 960 and they required alot of voltage but didnt get too hotQuote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
i wish i kept my rexII this board needs big bump on pci-e after 115 blk:(
i cant get stable past this:mad: