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OK So looking at this: http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-bi...-cl-w0075.html
its pretty cheap, but will it do the work? it also says it fits s775, but I need socket 1336 , (so are there different kits?)
Can you guys give me a cheaper/better solution for watercooling the cpu only?
Thanks
Yeah it'll work great...
...at soaking your components.
lol, yea go buy it, let us know how it goes lol
The stock cooler cant even cool the i7... what makes you think this can haha :p:
If you want a kit, look at these kits from Petra instead. A lot of people have reported failures with Thermaltake kits, and they have a pretty bad reputation here. I'm of the opinion that if you want to water cool, you should do it properly from the start, or you'll likely end up disappointed.
IMO high end air coolers are better than thermaltake watercooling kit.
That's not only your opinion, it's just a fact of life. We breath air, earth turns around the sun and thermaltake keeps thinking up new crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by nyeah
Corsair H50 misho, that's what you need when looking for low budget watercooling an i7.
If you also want to do a graca or think you will want to do that within the near future, you better build a custom loop allready.
How do you make a custom loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stijndp
I'm new to Water cooling,
What components do I need?
Pump, block, tubes, reservoir, heatsink + fans?
How does WC work anyway? I though it works kinda like a refrigerator where it cools the liquid. I am wrong right? It cools it by fans and heatsink
Read some of the stickies. You should really do a bunch of research first before considering watercooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
Pretty much. Pump, blocks for the components you want to cool (CPU, GPU, chipset etc.), reservoir, tubing, fittings and radiator with fans. If you want a budget build I would recommend the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
Pump: CPX-Pro
CPU block: Enzotech Sapphire + 1366 mount for your i7.
Radiator: Swiftech MCR320 with Yate Loon fans
Reservoir, tubing and fittings of your choice. Distilled water + silver kill-coils as your coolant.
That should give you a nice budget build that performs pretty well. There are better options for all those components, but it all depends on how much you want to spend to get those last few degrees.
Simply put, water is heated when passing through your water blocks. The heated water is carried to your radiator where it's cooled by air.Quote:
How does WC work anyway? I though it works kinda like a refrigerator where it cools the liquid. I am wrong right? It cools it by fans and heatsink
I also strongly recommend reading the stickies and following this forum for a while before buying anything.
Hey
So yea i am reading the forums :)
I considered water cooling because on the original link it's a sale so I could get a good deal.
but looking at your replies, its good to get quality i guess.
and building custom right now is not good, because uni just started and got no time. Maybe winter break :) but i will be reading around and by that time i should be an expert.
I love doing custom stuff anyway :D
As a few have said, your first stop should be the stickies: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=202394
This thread is a great read, it will answer most of your questions: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=54331
If you take your time and plan things out, you can do a custom watercooling for a reasonable price.
pumps: D5 or DDC are the pumps of choice around here. They seem to be reliable and are very capable of handling CPU and GPU loops. The biggest difference between the 2 is size.
CPU: Swiftech GTZ is a great block, very easy to install and performs well.
rad: A Swiftech MCR320-QP is the best bang for buck rad out there.
Res: There are a ton of options out there for res'. You can get a DDC and use a XSPC restop for the all in one approach. A D5 with a http://www.primochill.com/typhoon-ii...ystem-pec.html will allow you room for a lot of expandability. A Swiftech MCRES is a great cheap res. EK res look great, but cost a little more. These don't care what pump you use.
Fans: I prefer Gentle Typhoons. They are high quality with a great sound. Yate Loons are cheap and get the job done.
For tubing, I like the PrimoChill PRO LRT. It's great tubing with a nice line of color choices. Pick your favorite. ;) Tubing size isn't a big deal. I use 1/2" ID 3/4" OD, but also like the 7/16" ID 5/8" OD.
fittings: Compression fittings are cool looking, but expensive. Barbs are inexpensive and get the job done. BP fatboys are a bit nicer than the plastic ones. Clamps are needed unless you decide to use 7/16" ID tube on 1/2" barbs. (I still would use clamps or zipties for extra security.)
coolant: distilled water and a silver kill coil is what i use. I prefer it over colored coolant as people have had issues with the colored coolant breaking down and depositing dye on their blocks.
There is no CHEAP way to water cool if you value your system. You can cut your cost by customizing cases and various parts, as well as buying older technology that still works fine. Besides the extra performance and life you get out of your computer will pay for some decent parts.
From experience stay as far away as possible from Thermaltake water components !!! I can't emphasize that enough!
You'll notice in my sig. that I first bought a Thermaltake LCS case complete with their components. EVERY component failed more than once, pumps dying, water blocks cracking and leaking, barbs falling off the Rad, you name it happened. After RMAing all the water parts numerous time's I replaced them all with good quality parts, ended up with all brand new Thermaltake components that got sold to someone who wanted to build a cheap system. I told him my story but he still went ahead and I'm sure he regretted his decision somewhere down the line.
Since then I've not had a single component fail or leak! Water cooling is cool, but you have to buy the proper parts. There are plenty of good parts being suggested by others here that will do you well.
Did I say, STAY AWAY from Thermaltake water components :)
I have never used or will ever endorse the use of a thermaltake setup. My father, however, used this set up and it was ridiculous. Not only did it leak horribly but when I finally got his loop sealed the temps it got were :rofl:.
Like it was stated above, if you're looking for a cheap route to get some decent cooling for your CPU, a high end air cooler would be the best bet.
Other than that, id say if you want to make a WC loop you should be willing to save up the money to make it a decent set up, which usually isn't that expensive.
thermaltake cools worse than a fire.
lol got that part! NO more thermaltakeQuote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
OK guys, one question,.
So how long will these pumps last on a 24/7 setup? Year? 2 years etc/?
thanks
If you want a decent, cheap and as good as the best air coolers setup, get the Corsair H50. I used on a friends HTPC and OC'd his I7 920 D0 steppeing to 4.2Ghz at 1.28v vcore and it kept temps around the low 70's under moderate load which should be good for his application. Otherwise, Swiftech makes some great kits that uses a lot of the stuff people recommend, just done up in a bundle deal.
50,000 hours MTBF or 5 years continuous 24/7 use
A long time. :D Seriously.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
Most Laing pumps are rated to last 5 years! Took my DDC 2 apart after just over 2 years and it looks like new.
Misho, this will keep you busy for quite a while. The links are great bookmarks BTW.
Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Maybe this long rewritten and modified thing will help.
.......................................
CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for Vram and Mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $65 +
Reservoir $25
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
Fans $15-30
I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU. You can do it for less, but a CPU only loop is $250 or so, add a GPU, add $100. If your looking at an i7 and a BIG GPU, start thinking about a big rad, possibly two rads, or even TWO loops.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while reading this info, get a feel for what your getting into and learn.
It’s not 'Roket Science', but you need to know the basics and the lingo as a beginner.
You should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads, guides and more. It's how YOU learn. I can recommend the best stuff, but there are things only reading and participating on forums will ya learn anything. You don’t have to join all the forums. But reading ALL the WC stickies and many threads that interest you is important. A thread might be 50 replies long, and 15 of those replies might be what you needed to ‘PASS THE TEST’. Remember, once the $500 of goodies show up on your doorstep you’re on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. It took me a while; I was big into Air over clocking and started to read about water-cooling. I made my decision to water-cool. THREE months later I made my first purchase of parts. Yes it took me that long and I have built a few systems and always just fine.
Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. Your temps with a good WC rig will be better than you could of got on air, guaranteed. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.
Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators do NOT fit in many cases. Reading up on pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky. Look here too…. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223835
...........................
2009/2010 Heat thoughts:
With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger dual chip GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big over clocks, better go 320 sized rad.
Expect an i7 at 4.1 to be putting out close to 250 watts. Using the radiator testing charts, a PA 120.3 with medium fans on high you’ll get a Delta T of 5C, very good. Some have suggested a GTX295 puts out about 250 watts of heat, possibly more like 280 under load. You try and put both of those on a 120x3 radiator the CPU will not over clock at all, it will be very very unhappy. You want to learn more about heat load and the all important measurement, Delta T, read up in the stickies I provided.
2007/2008 Old stuff heat thoughts:
For a setup using the old Q6600 CPUs and the old 4870 and GTX280 cards this is for you.
IF you just cool your CPU and you’re NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.
…………………………………………………………
Just general info what you should do once a year to keep your WC at 100%:
Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Let sit for 10 minutes or so, then rinse well, put on a towel to dry.
The blocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean. You can pour it in a clean bowl and inspect the water if you like.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. It’s very relaxing with some mellow jazz in the background. Run a rag using a coat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well. I always consider replacing my hose every year. Plasticizers leach out, the tubing isn’t as flexible. Consider it a ‘Hobby Cost’.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
………………………………………………………
Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HW monitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: Real Temp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia
Loading/benching tools:
CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
……………………………………………………………
Guides
Pretty up to date info and buying guide Has EU, AU, NZ stores at the bottom
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=282232
A great up to date guide
http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.ph...ling&Itemid=86
What to do once all the stuff is in the door
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=312743
Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=233842
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223835
My latest rig:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=604016
Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?p=3837299 Why we use distilled water. Or de-ionized in the UK because distilled ain’t available unless your rich.
Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forum [...] p?t=220593 More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical
Stores (US)
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.frozencpu.com/
……………………………………………………………
OK so im reading, but I am a bit confused with what single loop and multi loop means .
Also, a loop should go from res>pump>cpu(cpu only in my case)>block right?
THahnks
A single loop is a res-pump-rad-block. A dual loop is two fully seperate loops, two res, two pump, two rads, two blocks.
Sometimes due to the amount of wattage needed dissipated and too many flow restrictive parts TWO loops is needed. See my sig below.
CPU loop is it's own pump, res, block, rad.
GPU loop is the same.
The GPUs would make the CPU water warmer, thus worse CPU temps. So two loops was best for me. But one loop would of been fine, but I'd need BOTH rads due to my heatload.
The one golden rule is res before pump, never ever run a pump dry.
OK, I though the rad has to be before the pump, because if its not it will heat up the pump for no reason? You said "res-pump-rad-block", but after the block, the water is high temps, goes through res and then warms up pump, I think it should be res>RAD>pump>block, because this way cool water enters pump?Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum
ALSO, are there any restrictions in lenght of tubing?
And can you run 2 blocks on a single looop?
The difference in a proper watercooling loop from hottest to coolest water is under a few C. So it doesn't matter wheere the parts are, as long as the res is before the pump. A proper watercooling loop water temp is no more than 15C above the ambient air temp. Most of us stay under 10C for the Delta T temps, many big watercoolers strive for under 5C Delta T.
These are facts you'll learn about in time as you begin your journey. They are very common quiestions for a new watercooler.
It's not the lenght of tubing, it's how the FULL system impacts flow rate. Lots of us have 5-8 ft for a loop. Yes, you usually can run more than one block.
Most of these questions can be answered if you take my advice and start reading a lot. It's all in my big post. CYA in a week or so after 10-20 hours of learning, then these easy questions will be unnessary. You'll get your own answers by learning.
OK guys, so do you think a single 240mm rad will cool my overclocked i7 (1.4Vcore)
? a swiftech or black ice rad.
Yes, a single 240 will do fine, but if you want to add anything to the loop, like your video card, then you will need a 360. For the few $ more, it is best to go with a 360 from the start.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
It seems most guys are running 360s on the I7 around here looking for that extra little bit. Plus the larger surface area should allow you to run the fans a little slower if noise is a concern for you.
edit: All the HW Labs (except the new SR1s) are high FPI rads. This means they due a great job of transferring heat, but require high speed fans to do it. If a fan louder than 40 DBs is too loud for you, I would look into XSPC RX series, ThermoChill, and the SR1s as they are low FPI rads and perform great with slower fans.
The Swiftech doesn't perform quite as well as the others, but still performs really well for the money. If you are on a budget, the Swiftech rads are an excellent buy. :up:
Nice job Conundrum!! Very detailed post with a ton of useful information. Outstanding job in helping a new water cooler.
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
Thanks Utnorris, it gets cut n pasted a lot on a few other forums. Just wish some would slow slow slow down and learn first.
Yea i was looking at the 24cm rad because it can fit where the drive bays are in my Antec 900, a 36cm rad will barely fit thats why.
I am still wondering where I am going to put the rad. Somwhere where it sucks the room air, and blows it off into the room, not inside the case.
Ohh you mean a 120x2 sized rad. Or a MCR 220 Or an XSPC RX240. Or a Black Ice 240 SR-1.
Look in the mods section at the top of this forum, you'll get LOTS of ideas.
Many just mount it off the back of the case. Don't limit your rad size because it has to fit, you have to overcome physics first, ie enough cooling.
Seems he is referring to thickness of the rad. IIRC those are the thicknesses of the GTS and Swifty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum
Ohh ya, gotcha. 24mm is like the MCR series or is it closer to 30mm? Seen lots of MCR220's in the front of an Antec 900.
MCRs are like 34mm the GTS' were the skinny ones. Only downfall is those GTS' need the higher speeds fans, or a push/pull config to work right.
Yea, I looked it up. Yep, you need big fannage to make those perform like a more modern radiator. Seen the MCR220 in the front of an Antec 900, it's a very good solution.
OP: How much modding? Look at this link, find your case.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223835
OK, so thicker rad = better, I am going to go with a 3x120mm rad, (36cm), because I am going to put it on top of my case,
sitting on its side. Like this:: http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/1372/mycooling.png. Is this going to be a problem for the big pump to push all the water up like that? And I want to get the thicker rad because thicker = better
Edit:: What is better: Black Ice GT Stealth 360 OR Swiftech MCR320-QP?
I am looking to maybe get one of these
Between those two, it's not the thickness, it is the amount of fins per inch. The GTS has more than the MCR 320.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
For out right performance, the GTS is the best, but you need to use fans like these to get that performance: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwvVs67DFWY
The MCR320 works better with slower, quieter, fans. It all depends on the what you prefer :up:
Very good summary Conundrum. It's frustrating for WC newbies in that the information is there but it takes so long to read and digest. Sometimes you just want someone to answer your specific questions...which will always lead to further questions. With technology/equipment changing some of the old school methodologies are just plain wrong ....some of the new school plain petty!! I've been watercooling for a decade mainly because it delivers performance and an element of customisation to a rig. The water cooled Gallery http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=water+gallery is a site to behold.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum
Anyway Misho a swiftech kit would be a good start, then later you can start swapping bits in and out. Planning is the key ...I've been planning one for a year now :D. A spare case to dremel might also be a good start lmao
Hey guys, so far This is my list:
Block: Swiftech apogee gtz
Rad: Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power
Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Res: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO REV2
Tubing: Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT Clear
Still dont know which barb fittings, and what additive to the distilled water.
Edit: So for coolant I just use distilled water(getting from local food store is ok right?), and the Silver KillCoils by iandh, but what about additives for the corrosion? ( i dont need colour in my cooling)
You can just use an anti-algae additive from the pet store instead of the silver coils. You do not need to worry about anti-corrosive because you are not mixing metals. I would get a MCP355 pump and XSPC res top instead of the MCP655 and Micro res. Cost will be about the same, but better performance, plus you eliminate two fittings and the need for tubing between the res and pump. Probably be easier to place in your case also. Check out Jab-tech.com for the Swiftech GTZ, I believe it's the best price around:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Apo...k-pr-4246.html
Here is the pump I was talking about:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP...p-pr-3510.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic...C-pr-4123.html
The rad:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR...r-pr-3320.html
Tubing:
http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pr...D-pr-4116.html
or even better:
http://www.jab-tech.com/ClearFLEX-60...D-pr-2431.html
And then these fittings, they are compression and run a little more, but they have a cleaner look and work great:
http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoChill-G...r-pr-4487.html
If you want to do silver instead of the anti-algea aditive, then do this:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobia...p-pr-4530.html
For color and anti-algea I always like this:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Pentosin-G11...e-pr-3707.html
Here is a link to a work log for a 900
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=228537&mpage=1&key=
Isnt the MCP355 weaker than the MCP655???
slightly but not significantly + ur only doing a cpu only loop atm so you won't need the 655. Also the 355 is much more flexible as to location and or tops. imo the 355 tops look better than the microres :/
That seems to be a common mistake. You would think so seeing the model number is less, but that isn't the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
The MCP355 actually handles restrictive loops a little better than the D5. Overall though the 2 pumps are basically a draw when it comes to which is better overall. You won't go wrong with either one. :up:
NoQuote:
Originally Posted by misho
...Quote:
Originally Posted by Caoder
No...
The 355 > 655 in our application uses. However if u add the T3, its different.
But in a stock to stock, the 355 > 655. With simple tops, 355 > 655.
When looking at T3 tho... 655 > 355
But my dual DDC package > any T3 or dual 655 package. :P
I hate the D5.
Seriously hate it with a pasion.
Ask skinnee how many i owned at one time, and you'll see its not a blanket statement.
No the D5 is crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Caoder
Dont even look at the D5 unless your getting a T3 for it.
The reason why i say its crap is because:
1. Its big
2. Its more expensive then the 355 for less performance.
(the D5 needs to be vario otherwise its not even worth a comparision.)
3. Its Ugly even with tops compared to the 355.
4. You can fit 2 DDC's in the same footprint as 1 D5.
Not to piss off any D5 owners here, but the D5 is crap unless you get a T3.
OK so I have to buy the http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic...C-pr-4123.html reservoir to go with the MCP355 right? Can I use any reservoir or this has to go on?
Edit: The MCP355 comes with 3/8 barbs , but I am going to use 1/2 barbs, and the MCP655 is 1/2 barbs. I know i can change the barbs, will this effect the flow?
I dont like that res because it has some bleeding issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
If you dont mind the budget u can build one simular to it.
This is how i built mine:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...i/IMG_1334.jpg
Basically its the 355 with regular XSPC tops. Then i used a variable coupler between 2 Magicool 250mm res.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...i/IMG_1335.jpg
Why did i pick magicool instead of EK? A lot of people as this.
Because the Magicool has a nice place for my kill coil:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...i/IMG_1336.jpg
Its a bit more expensive, but i think it looks better then a XSPC res.
Problem with LC is u will always see something better. But i see your holding a budget. So it might be tough.
Your second question... The pump is native 3/8. Thats why u get a top.
The top allows you to install G1/4 barbs. So you can pick if u want to stay 3/8 or step up to 1/2.
You just buy the barbs for it.
Ah, i do have a budget, so I am trying to keep it low cost. I think the MCP655 is going be good for me because I can go with the cheaper solution.
You can use any reservoir you want. That is just a nice all in one package. Vapor also put a thread out about putting a using a ziptie (or something similar) to put restriction on the intake during bleeding.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
You can use any res you want. I would suggest adding a EK top or XSPC top.
OK So I should NOT go with the Swiftech MCRES Micro? I've seen LOTS of setups with that res.
I am going to be using the MCP655 pump.
get the typhoon IIIQuote:
Originally Posted by misho
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
That is the easiest solution and you would be prepared for just about any upgrades and additional cooling you wish. :up:
Daaaamn $60 for that.. Uh i am low budget..
Whats so bad about the MCRES micro anyway?
There isn't anything wrong with it. If you can't afford the T3 right now, just get it and when you get ready to upgrade the loop, you can add the T3 in then.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
Your going to want to get this D5 though. i have the fixed speed and it has a little bit of annoying squel. It has gotten a little bit more noticeable lately and i will be changing it out for a vario next upgrade.
Yea my setup is fine so far:
Block: Swiftech apogee gtz
Rad: Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power
Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Res: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO REV2
Tubing: Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT Clear
I am sure everything will work so far. Still need to find barbs and additive (probably the silverkill coil by iandh)
What barbs should I get?
Also, the radiator should be sandwiched with push and pull fans right?
You don't have to. It is great if you can though. BP fat boy barbs get the job done. I would just do the silver killcoil from iandh. Its great product and supports iandh. :up:
Change that to masterkleer.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
With the leftovers get a T3.
Trust me, just grab it now instead of later.
Because later you'll have a usless MCres when u get the upgrade bug.
Also seeing how i think this is your first time wcing, avoid expensive tubing for now. Your system wont be up long enough for you to enjoy it.
Yeah i will get the upgrade bug for sure :P,Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
What do you mean by "Your system wont be up long enough for you to enjoy it."?
also, proper quality tubing IMHO is a very good investment really.
meaning the moment u set it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
You will come back on this forum and browse like a cow in a pasture.
Then you will find a TOY in one of the threads and go OMG MUST HAVE.
Then your gonna order it, and realize u need to rip your entire system out, and you cant really recycle tubing when you add a new component, or swap it out, unless its nearly identical.
So you will have wasted all that money u spent on the expensive tubing, when u could of used cheap tubing to start.
Basically i recommend newbies NOT to touch the premium tubing until the 3-4th build.
Also i tell newbies whatever your budget is, most of the time expect to go over by about 25%.
Unless u were seriously sitting down with a expert and picking parts out one by one with him/her.
Sigged.. oh god thats a good one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
That would be a good reason to get the T3 then. People have been able to run OC'ed core 17 920s. full board MB blocks, and tri-slied 280s with low temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
It's a great product and you won't have to worry about your pump combo for some time. Also if your going to get D5, get the Vario.
I agree and disagree with Naekuh on the tubing part. As long as your not completly redoing your loop, switching cases or rad and res positions. You can reuse most of your tubing. It's only during a complete overhaul you can't reuse tubing.
That being said, I have broke my build down about 3 times already and I started 3 months ago or so. If you are on a budget then I would follow his advice and get the masterkleer. It still is great tubing, will open up a few dollars to get better components like the T3 with D5 vario, and you can upgrade to better tubing when you get a GPU block and have extra money.
There are still a few guys that use Masterkleer around here and haven't really said anything bad about it.
Barbs, fatboys, what metal though? silver, nicker, or GOLD?? whats the best, and which one should I get?
The pure silver plated will help to keep stuff from growing your loop. The other 2 are just bling factor.
OK, from what I can see, the apogee gtz block comes with chrome 1/2 barbs:
http://www.directcanada.com/products...cture=SWIFTECH
Should I put in my own Bitspower Fatboys SILVER barbs?
Thanks
Are you using distilled water? Are you getting one of Iandh's silver kill coils? If yes and yes, then just get these http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishfifo.html
If yes and no, then get about 4-6 of those. If no on distilled and you are going to use Feser 1, then barbs I linked above.
I perfer the fatboy barbs over the stock ones as the diameter is a bit bigger. This means it grips the tube a little better than stock barbs.
Yea im using distilled water, with the killcoil.
and I am going to get those barbs (BTW the sidewinder barbs, and the barbs i showed you are the same. )
Also, what about the barbs on the Swiftech MCRES Micro?(I am getting that for now, its final..), and barbs on the pump?
Basically i need to order, 8 of those barbs,: res, pump, block, and rad.
Didn't see the barbs you showed me :)
There are 2 different types. Those and the True Silver. The true silvers are more expensive, but can replace the kill coil. You just need 4-6 of them. If you are using a kill coil, it's a waste of money to get those. Nope, only 6 unless you wish to get a pump top, then 8. The D5 has molded 1/2 barbs.
Ah, molded. Alrighty then.. Yea i am getting the true silver, because overall i think i need to mess around more with shipping and stuff with the killcoil because I am in canada.
so 6 is good.
I would ditch the Typhoon III makes the set up more noisy and adds vibrations to the system if you can live with that then it is for you, i rather have 2 pumps.
Hey, guys, so for the MCR320-QP, would these fans be alright? in push config
http://www.directcanada.com/products...facture=SCYTHE
consider the cheap price as well.
The slip streams are not very good fans for rads. Look into Gentle Typhoons or S-flexs.
OK will look into those, but why are slip streams bad?
Also, should I do push or push/pull? is it worth the extra 3 fans and possibly $30?
Edit: looking at these: http://www.directcanada.com/products...facture=SCYTHE
50CFM, 20DB, <-- is the 50CFM gonna be alright?
Or maybe the 63FM, 28DB, but thats getting close to my 32DB ultra kaze's, which are pretty damn loud.
It isn't the CFM rating of the slip streams. It is the static pressure. The slip streams don't have enough. Best thread for fan info here: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223391
Alright so the sflexes i picked out will be good.
Still dont know if i shoud do push/pull or only one?
If you have the room it wouldn't hurt. Shrouds are a great idea also. Just push or pull works too. See here: http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by misho