Another Lian-Li PC-343B Build Log

I've been following a number of other build logs based on this case, and have been in the process of trying to build my own for the past few weeks. I should mention that this is my 1st attempt at building a water-cooling.

I'm currently at the stage where the CPU loop is up and running, and am awaiting a couple of components needed to complete the build.

The system is based on the following components:

Lian-Li PC-343B case
Q6600 G0 CPU
Gigabyte GA-X38-DQ6 motherboard
4 x 1GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500 memory
8800GTX graphics card

The cooling will be provided by:

Swiftech Apogee GTX CPU block with copper top
Swiftwch MCW60 GPU block
Swiftech MCW30 NB block
Enzotech CNB-S1L SB heatsink (modded)
2 x Swiftech MCP355 pumps with Petra's top
1 x Thermochill PA120.3 radiator (CPU & NB loop)
1 x Thermochill PA120.2 radiator (GPU loop)
2 x Swiftech MCRES reservoirs
Tygon 7/16" tubing
15 x Zalman ZM-F3 fans (red LED)

Here's my 1st attempt at building the CPU/NB loop:

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/4...ontviewxz4.jpg

You'll have to excuse the blue SmartCoils - I ran out of clear, and that was all I had at the time - I did intend to change them later.

I had a few problems with this layout. Firstly, I didn't plan the location of the pump very well (it's attached to the back of the motherboard tray) as I didn't leave enough room to install the hdd's in the drive bays. Next, I didn't apply enough TIM (1st time using Shin-Etsu x23-7783D). I also put a lot of dye in the water to try and achieve a darker colouring - in fact, I used half a bottle of Petra's 'red' (pink) dye, which was probably too much. I may also not have cleaned the radiators well enough. The result was cloudy tubing after a few hours of use, and an oily slick on the surface of the water in the reservoir.

So, I decided to strip it all down and have another go. This was not an easy task, and it got me thinking on how I could improve the layout to make draining easier.

I removed the PA120.1 radiator as I decided it wasn't really necessary and could do with the additional space and improved airflow. I also decided to put the pumps in the front of the case, and reverse the PA120.3 so that the barbs are at the bottom.

It took a while to clean the radiator again (lots of pink dye), but finally managed it and here is the new layout:

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5...viewnewzw6.jpg

The filter is temporary and will be removed after I'm sure the loop is clean (maybe a week or so).

I'm happier with the layout, although I was unable to fit hose clamps to the radiator connections - not too bothered about this as I'm using 7/16" tubing on 1/2" fittings.

This is currently running 400x9 @ 1.5v (1.472v in WinXp drooping to 1.440v under load) 24hr prime stable with temps of 33 idle and 52 load. I think having it so close to the radiator is not a good idea and is affecting the temps, but it will be moved once complete. I'm sure there's more OC in there and will be able to spend more time on it once the build is complete.

I'll post some more pics and details on the build process shortly. I just wanted to make this post to commit myself to maintaining this build log :p:

Finally, a quick thanks to the following threads for the inspiration:

Cascades' Lian-Li 343B Case 3-loop Project
Mjassbong's Project X-343B-WC
Mekrel's Project: Back To Black

looks good, some more pics please...

First job was to remove the tops from the drive bays so that the PA120.3 radiator will fit. As the other threads have shown, this is a simple task that even I was able to manage within a couple of minutes. Drill out the rivets holding the top plates and voila:

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/6185/radtopkz4.jpg

I am using the standard Lian-Li modules for the front bays:

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/1...ontviewdx4.jpg

One thing I found when I'd installed the fans was that the Zalman fans were resonating badly with the aluminium plate in the modules:

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/9...ebeforeox3.jpg

To solve the problem, I called on Mr Dremel:

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1...geafterlx3.jpg

This should provide better airflow, but I do have one small problem still to overcome. For the bay covers on the radiator side, I can still have the dust filters installed:

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/2...aycoverne8.jpg

However, for the drive bay modules, this is no longer possible:

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/742...aycoverqs6.jpg

I need to have a think on how to mod this to allow the filters to be used, but for now it's acceptable.

I'd originally intended to have both reservoirs sitting in the gap between the 2 drive bays:

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/6...servoirbj3.jpg

However, after playing around with the routing of the tubing (also considering the new position of the pumps), I found it better to have the CPU loop reservoir at the back of the case with the outlet facing towards the pump. I'll leave the other where it is for the GPU loop.

I cut one of the standard mountings to tidy things up a bit:

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6...unting2ch6.jpg

Looks like I need to put some grease or something on the end to prevent oxidation.

The height of the Swiftech MicroRes reservoir is perfect for sitting on top of the motherboard tray :up:

All my other builds have been blue - fans, cables, etc., and so I decided to go for a red theme for a change. As the standard case LEDs were blue, I replaced them with red LEDs. This was probably the most challenging part for me as I have no previous experience at soldering. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics during the process, but it wasn't as difficult as I had expected. Removing the LEDs from the case was simple. Cut the blue LED from the wire, solder the red LED to the wire, and then some heatshrink to cover the exposed wire. The soldering was the most difficult, especially as I forgot you needed flux, but it all worked out in the end.

I'm using a Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller due to it being able to handle up to 20W per channel. As I have 6 fans attached to the 1st channel, and a total of 15 fans that need to be controlled, this was probably my only option.

As many ppl have already mentioned, the LEDs are too bright on this controller, so I simply disabled them by disconnecting the centre pin on each:

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9224/sunbeamlw3.jpg

The heatsink on the 1st channel does get rather warm with those 6 fans connected.

First step was to remove the stock cooling:

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3...erboardcf2.jpg

I'd planned to use the Swiftech MCW30 for cooling the NB, so checked to make sure I had a heatsink for the SB. I've got quite a few lying around, but none fit as the separation of the mounting holes is only 42mm on the ICH9R - a lot shorter than other motherboards.

I did consider simply reinstalling the stock cooling and tested this out with some new TIM, but wasn't happy with the seating of the NB:

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/5...overagegw3.jpg

So I decided to go with my original idea and use the MCW30. This meant that I needed a solution for the SB.

After due consideration, I decided to use the Enzotech CNB-S1L. It first needed some attention from Mr Dremel:

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/6...eatsinksw9.jpg

I had to remove one of the pins in the corner, drill new mounting holes closer together, and remove part of one of the mounting legs for it to fit (the leg on the right was hitting one of the caps). It was hard work drilling through that solid copper, but worked out well in the end.

That just left the Mosfets. My first thought was to use the standard solution, but I needed to disconnect it from the NB and SB. Normally, I would have simply cut the heatpipes, but I remember seeing another thread that suggested you could heat it up and pull them out. So, out with the heatgun and...the base plate dropped off :rofl: I'd heated it so much that the solder holding the base plate had melted.

After a few minutes cursing, I wondered whether I could use a TR HR-03. However, the clearance between the caps at the back and the R80 things at the front (no idea what these are) is only 13mm :eek:

So, back to the stock solution. After an hour playing around with it and adding a considerable amount of additional solder to the contact surfaces, I finally managed to get it back together again. I cut the remaining heatpipe and installed it quickly before doing any further damage:

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/53/mosfetgj5.jpg

On with the MCW30 for the NB:

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8...ountingzg8.jpg

Spring mounting used - the hard mount is not suitable due to the IHS on the NB, but also not really required. The IHS provides additional stability for the block.

You can see in the background that the Apogee GTX with copper top is already installed.

Ah great, love to see another Lian Li 343B going up, good luck on your watercooling loop. What was the reason on choosing this particular case?

Quote:

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Jedda's Project: Back To Black

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lol i think you mean mekrel's project....

nice build by the way

Wow :shocked: that looks great. I like the looks of the Lian Li case. I have a stupid question to ask. What is the waterfilter for ???

Thanks for all the comments.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disruptfam

lol i think you mean mekrel's project....

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oops - corrected. I'm following Jedda's project also, and got confused :rofl:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pH(x)

What was the reason on choosing this particular case?

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Long story and a bit complicated. I remember seeing Patriote's avatar and then saw this case on Aqua-PCs (UK) and thought they were the same. At the time, they didn't have the case in stock. I then found out his avatar was actually an MM case, so I ordered one. When it arrived, it wasn't exactly what I wanted - although it is a very nice case. In the meantime, I'd also built a PC for a friend and that was the first Lian-Li case I had worked on. I was impressed with the quality of the case, then saw all these threads of ppl working on PC-343B water-cooling builds. Ordered one and loved it from the minute it arrived.

It's a bit more work getting everything installed, but I am getting a nice sense of satisfaction from the build process. However, this has been going on for a couple of months now, and I just want it finished so that I can use it :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RubberDuck

What is the waterfilter for ???

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Well, when I first set the CPU loop, I had a lot of gunk floating in the reservoir. I'm not sure if it was because I didn't clean the rads properly or maybe I used too much dye. In order to try and make sure everything is nice and clean inside, I decided to put the filter in just for a week or so. During this period, I'll leave the PC running 24/7.

It's also suggested by MaxxxRacer in one of his guides. As this is my 1st WC build, I'm being overcautious :)

~aoe~

Nice build n choice of casing :up: , 1 question, after removing the top instead of cutting like what Mekrel n Mjassbong did to fit the PA120.3, does the top rattle?

TIA

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cablesguy

Nice build n choice of casing :up: , 1 question, after removing the top instead of cutting like what Mekrel n Mjassbong did to fit the PA120.3, does the top rattle?

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Thanks.

There's no rattle - once the radiator bracket at the top is screwed in, the structure is very rigid.

Hey man looking good, progress in the making...

could you perhaps take a picture of that foam material the lian li uses as filter? thanks...

Happy to oblige:

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4954/filtergq8.jpg

Looking good.
Pity you had to cut that plate but I'd try mounting the mesh on the front of that first plate instead of in the slot behind it. A small amount of tape or velcro would hold it in place.

Good idea.

I was thinking about using some mesh to create a slot for the filter, but couldn't get a clear idea on how to keep it in place. I now have some on order and will give it a try when it arrives.

If I cut it right, maybe I'll be able to simply wedge it in there - doesn't need to be firmly attached as it will only support the filter, which weighs next to nothing.

The 3M industrial strength invisible double sided tape that PerfPC, amongst others, sells is crash hot for mounting modders mesh and that sort of thing. Once stuck it's stuck though, so velcro is better if you'll be dis-assembling at all.
I'm surprised you had the resonance. I'm using those bays in my V1000 twin and find them quite solid. Guess it depends on the fans?

Yeah - I'm sure it was the fans. I've got different fans in a couple of other modules and no resonance.

Seeing as I'm waiting on parts to complete the GPU loop, I'm working on a few finishing touches. Here's the side panel window completed :D :

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/2...lwindowiw5.jpg

If anyone has any suggestions on products for cleaning the metal panels that are available in Spain (or EU), then please let me know. Lots of fingerprints that need to be removed, preferably whilst leaving the paint intact :p:

Can you get ALCOWIPE swabs? They're the little alcahol dipped swabs used for injections. Very handy for wiping off fingerprints.
Trick is to get the prints off asap.

I'll have to check. I do have some 96% alcohol which I've just tried. Seems to be removing them ok, but will require some time to do it properly.

I remember trying this alcohol on the MM case, which was covered with lots of marks from the plastic wrapping it was delivered in, but whilst it didn't damage the paint, it also didn't remove the marks. What it did do was to spread the marks over a larger area :p:

Any stronger products I tried actually removed the paint causing the surface to look scratched :shakes:

Maybe some sort of mild polish would be better for the MM case.

I'll have to do some testing on the products available here in Spain.

MM cases are painted, aren't they?
Whereas Lian Li are brushed anodysed aluminium and need different treatment.

Yes, that's true. They use a powder-coating process to paint the cases. Just not sure how to clean them.

Most of the marks on the surface are from the plastic 'stretch wrap' (or whatever you call it), but some are adhesive residues left by tape.

Alcohol can dissolve the adhesive residue, but it evaporates quickly, and the adhesive doesn't seem to attach itself to the cloth, but stays on the painted surface. It just gets spread around :shakes: Alcohol has no effect on the 'stretch wrap' marks.

I haven't decided whether to use the case yet in my next water cooling build (I love my TJ07 - not sure I can drop it for the MM), so haven't spent any time trying out different products to clean the surfaces.

try this, easiest finger print remover n cleaner n polisher (well not really a polish as its non abrasive) for anodized alu's that i know :D

That looks good. I would also like some double-sided adhesive tapes from 3M (one for mounting ramsinks and one for the mesh). I'll have to search again for a supplier here in Spain.

Coolmod used to carry them but I dont think they do anymore, I may be wrong though so look around on the site.

i use just some mother's alu polish to get rid of the fingerprint's works well..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disruptfam

i use just some mother's alu polish to get rid of the fingerprint's works well..

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Haven't ever used it on a black case so didn't recomend it but it certainly has been good on the silver Lian Lis.

I'd be amazed if 3M had missed Spain from it's distribution net and Here it is.

Very nice! Looking great so far. Happy to see another 343B build going up :up:

Different looking can in Oz

Looking good so far m8!

I'll keep an eye on that project ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ~aoe~

Yes, that's true. They use a powder-coating process to paint the cases. Just not sure how to clean them.

Most of the marks on the surface are from the plastic 'stretch wrap' (or whatever you call it), but some are adhesive residues left by tape.

Alcohol can dissolve the adhesive residue, but it evaporates quickly, and the adhesive doesn't seem to attach itself to the cloth, but stays on the painted surface. It just gets spread around :shakes: Alcohol has no effect on the 'stretch wrap' marks.

I haven't decided whether to use the case yet in my next water cooling build (I love my TJ07 - not sure I can drop it for the MM), so haven't spent any time trying out different products to clean the surfaces.

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To clean a powder coated case use non abrasive car wax and 100% cotton cloth. Not only does it clean it, but gives it a nice shine and protects from future fingerprinting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MountainMods

To clean a powder coated case use non abrasive car wax and 100% cotton cloth. Not only does it clean it, but gives it a nice shine and protects from future fingerprinting.

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I'll try that on my U2-UFO, thanks!

Yeah, they do have a presence here, but finding a reseller with the specific products you need is a bit more difficult.

I'll keep trying.

PS Not speaking the language fluently doesn't help...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ~aoe~

PS Not speaking the language fluently doesn't help...

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I bet!
It's a trip being the "wog" in another land. I find I turn into this very animated mime style wog. Charades contestant of the year.
"Look ma, the crazy foreigner is here again"
"Remember when he wanted to buy toilet paper!"

We could make an own 343b area here :D
Nice work ~aoe~ :top:

Well I hope it is not too loud with the Yate Loons behinde the LianLi-frame. Did not really test that yet. I better do before my Hardware is moving into the case ;)

Firstly, the reason for no updates recently is that I'm still waiting for the components I need to complete the build. Good news is that they are now on their way. Bad news is that I've decided to revise the build a bit.

After running the temporary setup for a few weeks (filter installed), the tubing has gone cloudy yet again :shakes:

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/912/cloudyxr1.jpg

Yes - the water in the reservoir does have a pinkish tinge to it :mad:

This is after considerable time and effort was invested in trying to clean the radiator; in total: 2 x 1/2 hour soaks in vinegar, 2 x overnight soaks in distilled water, and countless litres of hot/cold distilled water to flush :shrug:

As a result of my inability to properly clean the radiator, I have decided to use black tubing :D

My first thought was to stay with the connectors I've got and use 1/2" tygon, and I have more than enough winging it's way to me from sunny Wales (together with the laser-cut top panel for the PA120.2 and some other stuff). However, I've been watching the water cooled gallery and have seen some great builds using compression fittings. I have therefore decided (today) to do the same and have just ordered a bunch of new compression fittings and some black 10/8mm tubing and some funky red smartcoils.

I expect (fingers crossed) to receive all of the components I need to complete the build within the next week. Once here, I'll devote all my time to completing this build and post progress reports as I go.

I so want this completed - I've got:

- a stripped 8800GTX that's been sitting here for months waiting to be installed (and overclocked :D)
- OEM Vista 64 Ultimate that's been sitting here for months waiting to be installed
- Bioshock that's been sitting here for months waiting to be installed
- Crysis that's on it's way from the UK
- Call of Duty 4 that's also on it's way from the UK

Thankfully, I've got Valve's Orange Box to keep me sane whilst I wait.

The top panel arrived today :D

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/5725/toppanelpb2.jpg

Thanks to 'WelshTom' at Chilled PC UK for arranging the cutting :up:. I wasted so much time trying to get it done in Spain :shakes:

I expect the rest of the components to arrive early next week (new fittings and tubing) so hope to be able to complete the build by the end of the week. I've also got the new Enzotech NB block on order:

http://www.enzotechnology.com/images...sli_photo4.jpg

http://www.enzotechnology.com/images...sli_photo2.jpg

Thought I might give this a try. With the fins, it looks like it may cool slightly better than the MCW30, and it doesn't look as if it would be restrictive. If anyone has any experience with this block, please feel free to comment.

Today I made a start cleaning the radiators in preparation (PA120.3 and PA120.2). So far I've got through 10 litres of distilled water, and there's still lots of crap coming out of them. I'm currently boiling the water, filling them up, then leaving them for 15-30mins before emptying. I'll keep doing this until the water comes out clean - this could take some days :rolleyes:

I believe the end is in site...

Great job on the top panel, this give me confidence on Tom's work with my own custom jobs request :)

Well, more delays affecting the completion of this build.

Firstly, after receiving all the new Alphacool compression fittings and tubing, I tested the fittings in the blocks and had some concerns. The o-rings are very small on the fittings, and also retained in a groove. The MCW30 and MCW60 are designed for larger o-rings and have their own retention groove. as such, it makes it difficult to tighten the fittings far enough to provide a good seal. Also, the o-rings will not sit on the flat surface provided by the blocks required to provide a good seal.

Here's a pic of the o-rings that were pre-fitted to the various fittings I have:

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9773/oringsiq8.jpg

From left to right (largest to smallest), we have:
1. Swiftech standard plastic fitting supplied with MCW30 and MCW60
2. Swiftech standard metal fitting supplied with Apogee GTX
3. D-Tek G¼ ½" fitting
4. Alphacool G¼ 10/8mm compression fitting

To give you an idea of where the o-rings will sit on the MCW30 and Apogee GTX, here's a couple more pics:

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8...ngmcw30bk5.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/243/oringgtxdz2.jpg

As you can see, the o-rings will try and seal against the screw threads and not the flat surface where they are intended to seal. Bottom line is that I'm not comfortable using these fittings with any of the blocks I'm using.

In addition, I couldn't get the 10/8mm tubing to bend between CPU and NB block without kinking. The coils I ordered were not suitable, and the only ones I can find are the metallic type (which I really don't want to use).

So, as a result I've decided to go back to the Tygon black ½" tubing.

However, this doesn't fully explain the delay as I have all the components required to complete the build with the ½" tubing (except the coils which are probably not necessary). This comes back to the choice of using the black tubing. I decided this week that the overall look will be odd if I don't paint the interior black. Also note that I saw SiNiSon's Murderbox on the Water Cooled Case Gallery and was blown away. So, I've given the chassis to a friend and he's going to paint it matt black :D

I expect to have this back on Thursday and with any luck I should also have the coils by then also.

I got my copper top too a week ago and my black 1/2" tygon is on his way :D
I think our taste is similar ;)

Matt will really show the dust and finger prints. I'd consider a semi-gloss, or at least see a trial piece of metal painted before you commit your case.
Good luck. Hope its running soon.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jedda

Matt will really show the dust and finger prints. I'd consider a semi-gloss, or at least see a trial piece of metal painted before you commit your case.
Good luck. Hope its running soon.

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Dust and finger prints you say...:shakes:

Part of the reason for deciding to paint the internals was because I couldn't clean the finger prints :doh:

I do have some latex gloves that I could use whilst assembling - hopefully if I'm careful, this may keep the surfaces clean. I suppose I could always repaint it if it does become a problem.

I'm just so frustrated at the moment that it's taken so long and it's still not complete, so I'm just going to go ahead and finish the damn thing so I can play these games that are sat here :rofl:

BTW, I do like that 7" TFT you've shown in your thread. Do you have any details on it? Not sure where I could install it, but it does look cool :eek:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dnb#

I got my copper top too a week ago and my black 1/2" tygon is on his way :D
I think our taste is similar ;)

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I hope you plan to either provide a build log or at least show some pics :D

I've recently done some system implementation work in Tilburg for an office furniture manufacturer. Would be weird if we knew each other :shocked:

who are you than? I'm Bastiaan v. Berkel :D

Real name is Steve. I don't recognise your name, but then again Tilburg isn't exactly a small village :D.

I guess I was sorta thinking out loud before. It's amazing how small this world has become though, and it's no longer such a surprise meeting people I know in unusual places (and what could be more unusual than here :rofl:)

Hunting down info on that 7" TFT currently. I'll post all I get.
Its a long term idea for me.
Right now I'm like you. Want it running to use. Will slowly finish it off. Modding never really ends I find.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ~aoe~

Well, more delays affecting the completion of this build.

Firstly, after receiving all the new Alphacool compression fittings and tubing, I tested the fittings in the blocks and had some concerns. The o-rings are very small on the fittings, and also retained in a groove. The MCW30 and MCW60 are designed for larger o-rings and have their own retention groove. as such, it makes it difficult to tighten the fittings far enough to provide a good seal. Also, the o-rings will not sit on the flat surface provided by the blocks required to provide a good seal.

Here's a pic of the o-rings that were pre-fitted to the various fittings I have:

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9773/oringsiq8.jpg

From left to right (largest to smallest), we have:
1. Swiftech standard plastic fitting supplied with MCW30 and MCW60
2. Swiftech standard metal fitting supplied with Apogee GTX
3. D-Tek G¼ ½" fitting
4. Alphacool G¼ 10/8mm compression fitting

To give you an idea of where the o-rings will sit on the MCW30 and Apogee GTX, here's a couple more pics:

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8...ngmcw30bk5.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/243/oringgtxdz2.jpg

As you can see, the o-rings will try and seal against the screw threads and not the flat surface where they are intended to seal. Bottom line is that I'm not comfortable using these fittings with any of the blocks I'm using.

In addition, I couldn't get the 10/8mm tubing to bend between CPU and NB block without kinking. The coils I ordered were not suitable, and the only ones I can find are the metallic type (which I really don't want to use).

So, as a result I've decided to go back to the Tygon black ½" tubing.

However, this doesn't fully explain the delay as I have all the components required to complete the build with the ½" tubing (except the coils which are probably not necessary). This comes back to the choice of using the black tubing. I decided this week that the overall look will be odd if I don't paint the interior black. Also note that I saw SiNiSon's Murderbox on the Water Cooled Case Gallery and was blown away. So, I've given the chassis to a friend and he's going to paint it matt black :D

I expect to have this back on Thursday and with any luck I should also have the coils by then also.

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:ROTF: :ROTF: :ROTF: :rofl: (I really need a smilie falling of his chair laughing for this though)

That is far from being a reasonable means to check if the o-rings are going to work properly. They need to be on the fitting that you are going to use to be able to judge them. Try it again the right way and I doubt you'll have any o-rings go into the threads. ;)

omg lol, don't worry about the o rings, they wont go into the threads when they are stretched around the fitting itself, you are being super paranoid.

He's not being paranoid, yes they stretch around the barb and won't go into the thread but that in it's own isn't enough to make them leak proof.

The O-Ring needs to compress against two surfaces, and I don't see it happening with the GTX copper top unless the compression fitting actually fits inside the O-Ring recess that Swiftech milled into the top.

Quote:

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http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/53/mosfetgj5.jpg

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what are the black stand-offs on the apogee for? i've never seen someone purposely limit the mounting pressure on a cpu block before.

The stand-offs are distributed as official Swiftech parts, when you buy an Apogee GTX now :p

I just started an own thread here: Worklog - Lian Li PC 343b built coming with 2 Loops

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mekrel

He's not being paranoid, yes they stretch around the barb and won't go into the thread but that in it's own isn't enough to make them leak proof.

The O-Ring needs to compress against two surfaces, and I don't see it happening with the GTX copper top unless the compression fitting actually fits inside the O-Ring recess that Swiftech milled into the top.

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That is exactly my concern :up:. I'm not worried about the o-rings falling into the threads, I'm just not confident they will seal correctly.

There are 2 basic designs around: Swiftech (and others?) provide the recess on their blocks to prevent the o-ring from spreading and use non-recessed o-rings on their fittings; others such as D-Tek and Alphacool provide the o-ring recess on their fittings. Here are the different fittings:

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/7948/fittingsuu7.jpg

Left to right:
1. Swiftech
2. D-tek
3. Alphacool

The Swiftech fitting has a nice fat o-ring and is not recessed. The recess on the Swiftech blocks will provide the correct mating surface and prevent spreading of the o-ring. The other 2 fittings have recessed o-rings and are ideal for mating with flat surfaces (reservoirs, radiators, etc.). In my opinion, these 2 designs are not compatible.

You may consider me over-cautious, but it's a risk I'm not prepared to take.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by peebee

The stand-offs are distributed as official Swiftech parts, when you buy an Apogee GTX now :p

I just started an own thread here: Worklog - Lian Li PC 343b built coming with 2 Loops

---

Yes - they're standard.

Thx for the link. Now I've got another thread I can steal ideas from :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ~aoe~

That is exactly my concern :up:. I'm not worried about the o-rings falling into the threads, I'm just not confident they will seal correctly.

There are 2 basic designs around: Swiftech (and others?) provide the recess on their blocks to prevent the o-ring from spreading and use non-recessed o-rings on their fittings; others such as D-Tek and Alphacool provide the o-ring recess on their fittings. Here are the different fittings:

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/7948/fittingsuu7.jpg

Left to right:
1. Swiftech
2. D-tek
3. Alphacool

The Swiftech fitting has a nice fat o-ring and is not recessed. The recess on the Swiftech blocks will provide the correct mating surface and prevent spreading of the o-ring. The other 2 fittings have recessed o-rings and are ideal for mating with flat surfaces (reservoirs, radiators, etc.). In my opinion, these 2 designs are not compatible.

You may consider me over-cautious, but it's a risk I'm not prepared to take.

---

Ok, just for future reference, the D-Tek and Alphacool you show, are the proper definition of a "G" fitting. The Swiftech and DD barbs are lazy American versions of the "G" classification specs.

Now, having said that, I know from personal experience the D-Tek will properly seal your MCW's (I'm not sure about the GTX though). I doubt the hex on the Alpha will get past the surface for the O-Ring to seal on any of the blocks BUT, you can double up on O-Rings and that will works just as well (I've done it in the past and it doesn't leak).

The thread diameter is the same for both the Swiftech and D-Tek, both have a flat where the thread starts....So what's the problem? Don't say the recess because I've already said the D-Tek will fit. If you don't believe me, leak test one block you have a concern about with the D-Tek barbs outside the case before you put the loop together.

Well, my target was to complete the build before the 25th, and I almost made it.

I received the painted case on Saturday. It was spray painted matt black by a friend. I'm very happy with the results, although for the future I will probably plan more time for the paint job and get it anodised. The matt effect does show up the dust as Jedda mentioned, and is also a PITA to clean. I'd maybe consider a slight satin effect the next time, although I do like the way the matt doesn't reflect the light.

On Sunday and Monday I assembled both loops and left it running overnight to leak test. That all went well so today I'll try and assemble the rest of the components and with any luck should have it up and running later today.

Here's some pics:

Rear view

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3853/casebackqn8.jpg

Side view

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4...seside1gw1.jpg

The tubing is black Tygon ½" with PrimoChill gloss red coils. Whilst I like the overall colour scheme, I think I may have gone a bit overboard with the coils. I'm considering spacing them out a bit so that more of the black tubing is visible.

You may notice that the tube on the far right is a tad too long. I'm trying to decide whether to cut it shorter, although this would obviously require that I drain the loop again :shakes:. Maybe on the next upgrade :D.

All visible screw/bolt heads have been 'painted' black using a permanent marker pen.

You may have noticed a couple of strange things on the GPU loop that go against some of the acknowledged standards of water cooling. Firstly, loop order is pump > GPU > radiator > reservoir. This was done to keep the routing of the tubing cleaner. Also, I do have the fans on the PA120.2 blowing up, which is not ideal considering the fans are Zalman and therefore sleeve bearing. It also means that I have the air from the case blowing through the radiator. This was done deliberately to help balance the air flow through the case. Considering that the GPU has a dedicated PA120.2 radiator, I'm confident there will be more than adequate cooling for my needs.

Pump mounting

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5500/pumpsjx2.jpg

I used a couple of rubber grommets to support the pumps.

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/5...ountingoy2.jpg

The rubber is a bit hard and as such does not absorb all of the vibration. The noise isn't that noticeable, but I can probably improve this by finding a softer material. This will be a task for later.

Top view

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2899/casetopnk8.jpg

I couldn't get a decent shot of the top. The flash picks up the unpainted fins of the radiator. In reality this is not noticeable, and only really see the horizontal flow tubes and the vertical grill. The spacing of both appear identical producing a nice cross pattern effect.

Well, it's time I got on with trying to complete this build. I'll post more pics once it's completed.

I find natural light the only way to photograph a TC rad.
I agree with you. A slight toning down of the amount of red could help. Overall though its looking good.
Your pump sleeving came out great. Now comes the psu leads, eh?

I tell you what as well, ChilledPC are going to do anodised aluminium rad grills, they look amazing. I was given one because I drew them up and it's spectacular. The old ones matched my build because the smooth deep black of the powder coat matched my Delrin fill ports either side, now it matches because of the brushed effect with the case.

Looks great so far, try get outside for some pictures. I did but they came out over exposed because I don't fully understand how to use my camera :(

It is looking good but I would like to see more of the Tygon and less of the coils.

The unpainted fins of the rad is testament to the quality of Marci's build where he put performance over looks. But personally I like the contrast between the rad and the fins.

Regarding the unpainted fins, this was not meant as a criticism - more a comment on my inability to correctly show the effect due to my poor skills with a camera. The unpainted fins are not noticeable in natural light.

I've tried to take a pic without the flash:

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/5...noflashtp6.jpg

Here's a pic of the case with the side window

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/2...ewindowrc0.jpg

I have a single white CCFL at the top of the case.

I've increased the spacing of the coils on one of the tubes whilst doubling up on the coil thickness at each spacing. I'm trying to decide whether this is sufficient to show the correct balance of red and black. Can't decide though, so looking for opinions.

If it's still too much red, then I'll try another tube with similar coil spacing but single thickness.

On a positive note, I made an initial attempt at overclocking the graphics card and managed to achieve around 660 MHz GPU (failed at 670MHz) with temps around 46C under load. Need to further test stability before I flash the card bios with the new settings. Also haven't tried upping the memory clock yet.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mekrel

I tell you what as well, ChilledPC are going to do anodised aluminium rad grills, they look amazing. I was given one because I drew them up and it's spectacular. The old ones matched my build because the smooth deep black of the powder coat matched my Delrin fill ports either side, now it matches because of the brushed effect with the case.

---

Thx for the info. I'll have a word with Tom and see if he can sort me out :D

omg that's nice. a real lust for the eye as they say.
these copper tops look so nice, I just finished my new setup with a copper top too, I like our style m8, btw nice log so far.

I like the double-up of the coils ... the spacing looks good.

Very nice build!

Please don't temp me to spend any more money...This LL case is just awesome.

Wow! Well that looks awesome ~aoe~! Freaking great job m8!

Very nice case and watercooling good job ;)

Thanks to all for the feedback. I'll work on the coil spacing and post more pics once it's done. I'll also try and clean the case a bit :p:

I skipped over quite a bit towards the end of the log as most of what I've done has already been covered by other logs (eg. Graphics card prep was identical to Mekrel's build). If there's anything I've missed that someone would like more detail on, please let me know and I'll provide what details I can.

For those that like all the copper, I've got some Enzotech heatspreaders for the memory modules on their way from Petra's. Should be here very soon :D

I've now completed the 'final' changes (as if any build like this is ever 'complete') and as promised here are some updated pics.

Firstly, a few pics to show the changing of the Ballistix heatspreaders:

Memory with standard heatspreaders removed

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/38/memory1dq8.jpg

The thermal material between the memory chips and the heatspreader was very sticky and this made it difficult to remove. There were a couple of times I thought I must have damaged the modules, but thankfully they're pretty robust. The bare modules really do have a quality look and feel to them.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/8629/memory2as1.jpg

Cleaned off the sticky stuff from the chips with a cotton bud (no cleaning fluids required) and then finished them off with some Arcticlean 2 before mounting.

Here's the module waiting to be mounted

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/668/memory3la1.jpg

And finally mounted

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/5765/memory4vj1.jpg

Here's what they look like inside the case

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6450/memory5ko7.jpg

And finally some pics of the finished case. The coil spacing has been changed (and I'm not considering any further modifications to the coils. In fact, I don't ever want to see another coil :ROTF:).

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1...seside1oa2.jpg

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/2...asebackdl0.jpg

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/4...sefrontmv2.jpg

And a couple with the side open.

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/2...deopen1rt7.jpg

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...deopen2ib2.jpg

I do still have a couple of small changes to make. I still need to change a couple of the SATA cables (the green ones). I ran out of black, but now have them. I also need to mod the 2 hdd modules so that I can install the filter. Will do that once I have the mesh.

Firstly, however, I'm gonna enjoy the PC for a few days. Gotta catch up on those games that have been sitting here waiting for me to complete the build. Currently working through BioShock :D.

Thanks to all who have taken the time to read this thread, and especially to those who've provided inspiration and/or advice.

Looks Excellent!!! :clap:
You did a great job! :up:

And I like the coil spacing :)

P.s. You have very good cable managment!

Excellent job mate! I know what you mean about those coils. Seems like a great idea at first... until you actually have to implement it!

Very nice, mate. One of the best looking 343B builds, so far.
A really good result!

a very nice outcome.

Really like the finished product. The red is a nice change, and the window looks great on the 343B. Thanks for sharing the build.

Is the PA120.3 hard to fit in the front?
Or do you just "screw it in" <- that sounds... wired :D

Case looks awesome!! Quick question though on the RAM heatsinks, was there a benefit to replacing the stock ones from Ballistix, or was it just a color scheme preference?

Wow, really good job. Love the coil spacing and the Enzotech heatspreaders.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nullface

Is the PA120.3 hard to fit in the front?

---

What mod's are needed?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nullface

What mod's are needed?

---

If you want to use Thermochill PA120.3, then you need to drill out the rivets holding the support brace at the top of the optical bays. This is not necessary if you want to use a Swiftech or Black Ice triple radiator.

Ok, but it's a operation everybody could do? Or do i need experience with a dremel or saw.

And is that all? Seens pretty easy, no custom made parts or anything?

1/8" drill will take the center out of the rivits and its done.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nullface

Is the PA120.3 hard to fit in the front?
Or do you just "screw it in" <- that sounds... wired :D

---

It's not quite as simple as just 'screwing it in', but it's not a complicated mod.

Each of the drive bays has a metal panel on the top to provide support. This needs to be removed to provide sufficient space for the PA120.3. Each is held in place with 4 rivets which can be drilled out easily.

Once removed, You will need a couple of brackets to secure the PA120.3 in the drive bays. The Lian-Li supports are perfect for the job. There are also a couple of supports at the bottom of each drive bay where Lian-Li brackets will sit. There are 2 at the front and 2 at the back, to cater for fitting the brackets on the radiator either at the front or back.

With the top removed from the drive bay and the Lian-Li brackets attached to the radiator, it is then simply a matter of 'screwing it in' :D.

I didn't provide any detail on this part of the mod as I thought one of the other PC343B threads had already done this. However, I've been searching through the other threads and can't find any pics.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LogAn'sRun

Case looks awesome!! Quick question though on the RAM heatsinks, was there a benefit to replacing the stock ones from Ballistix, or was it just a color scheme preference?

---

In theory, there is a performance benefit. The standard Ballistix heatspreaders are thin aluminium plates, whereas the Enzotech are much thicker copper. However, I can't personally quantify any performance benefits at this time. They should help to keep the memory modules cooler, but I have to admit that a big part of my decision to use these was to add to the overall look of the finished case :cool:.

Well, I've had the system up and running for a couple of months now and thought it was time to review the build and do a couple of minor changes.

Firstly, there was one morning when I switched the PC on and one of the pumps failed to start, resulting in the GPU hitting 160C. Thankfully the graphics card still works, but it took me some time to work out what the problem was. I've therefore decided to replace the tops on the pumps with these:

http://www.xspc.biz/ddctop.jpg

This will allow me to check that the pumps are working more quickly. I've also got some red LEDs to install in the tops :D.

Next on the list is to try and tidy the tubes a bit, the main reason being that I'm having problems accessing the jumpers to clear CMOS (although I'm also planning to make a cable with a switch to attach to the jumpers). I had a couple of thoughts on this, but could do with some advice. Here are the options:

1. Reduce to 1 loop with single pump
2. Reduce to 1 loop with 2 pumps
3. Leave it alone

I'm getting the following temps with the current setup (2 loops):
CPU 32C (idle) 50C (load)
GPU 40C (idle and load)

The GPU won't clock higher than 660MHz (A2 revision), and as I'm getting no noticeable increase in temps when under load, I figure that there's additional cooling potential in the PA120.2 that could be used by the CPU/NB. If my logic is correct in this respect, then I just need to decide whether I need both pumps or whether one will be sufficient. Any advice in this area would be welcomed. If the preferred option is with both pumps, then any recommendations on where to place the pumps in the loop would be very useful. Also bear in mind that I intend to replace the tops on the pumps, and as I'm not sure how the new tops will perform compared to Petra's, it's probably safer to assume that I will lose some performance.

Next possible change is to remove the red coils. I can't decide on this, and I realise that this is all down to personal taste. The coils themselves aren't really needed and are simply there for aesthetic value. Thing is I can't decide whether I would prefer to see the tubes without the coils.

There are a few other minor changes planned based on some good ideas from other build logs here as XS, but I'll go into detail on those during the build process.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice/opinions.

excellent build..... no update and pictures since then?

Thx.

No updates as yet. I'm still trying to decide whether to change to a single loop, and also need to order some additional parts to do the other changes I'm planning. Hopefully won't take too long.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ~aoe~

Hopefully won't take too long.

---

Lier lier pants on fire!!!!
I want an update!!!! :D

lol :D. Touché as they say (mostly in France).

Here's the situation as of today:

Decisions made:
1. Red coils to go. I think I would prefer simple black tubing.
2. Got a custom-made bracket to attach the top rad to the case frame (as opposed to the top panel). Still needs holes drilled and, provided it's strong enough to support the weight of the rad, it needs to be painted
3. Replace existing front panels on both sides with these:

http://www.pc-cooling.de/images/prod...0300193_gr.jpg

I'll also be placing aluminium filters directly on the intake fans and these will allow easy access to the filters for cleaning (current solution is not practical). Whilst I placed the order for 16 of these early last week, the supplier is still awaiting a new delivery. This is the main cause for the delay.

New Hardware:
1. Motherboard: DFI LT P35-T2R
2. Memory: Mushkin XP2-8000 4x2GB
3. CPU: E8400 - awaiting delivery (eta this week)
4. XSPC Laing DDC Delta Plexi Top w/ red LEDs
5. 16 x Front bezels awaiting delivery (eta unknown)
6. Aluminium filters for fans awaiting delivery (eta unknown)

Outstanding decisions:
I'm still trying to decide whether to go to a single loop (either with 1 or 2 pumps) or stay with the 2 loops. 1 loop will look cleaner with less tubing, but I don't have enough experience to understand the consequences of each configuration and am therefore struggling to make the decision.

Current status:
I completed moving the current hardware to my other case today, and am currently in the process of stabilising the OC. Once complete and all required components have arrived, then I'll be able to start work on updating this system. I will of course provide updates :).

As a teaser, here's a quick pic of the memory I received:

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4527/img0396lj2.jpg

I was really impressed by the packaging :D.

nice packaging

very pro, would speak both to the woodworking and computer sides of me, :p

I think it's time that we impose a limit on these Lian Li 343B builds.
Just So many of them and I'm sick and tired of replacing keyboards after drooling all over them!:rofl:
I have this mental image of a 343B with a SM X7DWA-N with 2-QX9775's in it on water..
http://www.supermicro.com/products/m...00/X7DWA-N.cfm
Damn, there goes another keyboard..:shrug:
and a pair of shorts..:p:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Movieman

I think it's time that we impose a limit on these Lian Li 343B builds.
Just So many of them and I'm sick and tired of replacing keyboards after drooling all over them!:rofl:
I have this mental image of a 343B with a SM X7DWA-N with 2-QX9775's in it on water..
http://www.supermicro.com/products/m...00/X7DWA-N.cfm
Damn, there goes another keyboard..:shrug:
and a pair of shorts..:p:

---

rotf:

There should be a thread/gallery started for this case

Time for some updates methinks...

I've stripped down the system and switched all components to my TJ07 case. I'm still awaiting delivery of some components (further delays on the front bezels), but I can retrofit those later.

Firstly, I've replaced the bezel on the Rheobus with a standard Lian-Li bezel. As I've removed the LEDs, I just needed to make 4 holes for the dials. I'm really impressed by how well this turned out - looks more professional than I thought I was capable:

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/5964/img0405yk8.jpg

I made 8mm diameter holes for the dials - slightly larger than those on the original panel which were 7.5mm, but the retaining nut and washers were larger than 8mm so no problem there.

Next, in order to try and further reduce the noise from the system, I decided to attach the fans to the radiator with rubber fan mounts. I've not seen this done before, but I'm sure I'm not the first to try this. Here's the radiator with the fan mounts installed:

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/2470/img0406uy9.jpg

Obviously, this only works if you don't fix the rad to the case using the fans. To install, I first had to drill out the mounting holes to 5mm, then find some way of inserting the rubber mounts from behind the hole. I acquired this strange tool some years ago and never knew what it was for.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4730/img0411lq0.jpg

Finally I found a use for it :). By holding the end of the rubber mounts with the tool, I was able to insert the end from behind the hole and then pull it through.

I did the same for the rad in my TJ07 case and noticed a significant reduction in noise. Now I'm just trying to work out how to do the same for the PA120.3. As I'm using the Lian-Li bracket for fixing the PA120.3 to the case, I can't use these fan mounts for 2 of the 6 fans, so am looking for another solution to dampen the vibration for these 2 fans.

I'll also replace my custom pump mounting for the Laing Damper Kit:

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/files/detail/52007.jpg

Again, I've tested this on the TJ07 and found a marked reduction in noise. Clearly my attempt at a custom mount was not as effective as I'd hoped.

I've also installed a bracket to support the PA120.2 rad at the top so that I am able to remove the top panel easily for maintenance:

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/6782/img0410bi0.jpg

This is simply 2 strips of aluminium 2mm thick and 10mm wide. I tapped M3 holes in the frame and used standard case screws to attach to the case frame. The radiator frame is slightly bowed as the length is not exactly correct, but once the radiator is attached this provides the required stability and strength to the structure. I will also be bolting the radiator to the case top, but I can remove these bolts when I need access.

I'm currently working on modding the HDD modules so that I can use the standard Lian-Li front bezels, and also looking for a better location for the reservoirs (they were interfering with the mounting of the top panel). Once that's complete, I should be able to remount everything and try out this new CPU.

More updates to follow...

Wow man, this is looking good!! :up:

Keep us updated! :D

Just a few pics of the finished case. Apologies for the dust and my inability to take decent photos. I'm just starting to learn photography...

http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/486...efront2uj4.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/5...seside1tk6.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6...nteriorcm1.jpg

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/7729/xspctopur1.jpg

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/9228/memoryep1.jpg

I've gone as far as I can with this case. I have a new build in the pipeline that will require this hardware so it will be stripped down in the coming weeks. I may return to this case in the future though, maybe with a multi-processor build for crunching.

Your photos are pretty good and your rig looks stunning :).

wow, this is how I like it! r3400 rocks ass.