BOXGODS any info on when the T3 faceplates will be arriving in Europe?
Thanks.
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BOXGODS any info on when the T3 faceplates will be arriving in Europe?
Thanks.
I do not sorry. If any do make it to the EU it won't be many if I had to guess. At least not from this first batch of 100. I could be wrong though as I am not the one who decides what goes where.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
When I do know I will be posting.
OK. I have been getting a lot of emails and PM's asking about when the face plates will be out and which resellers in the US and the EU so I called Brian from PrimoChill and this is what he told me.
The face plates will ONLY be sold at ModdersMart and PrimoChill because that is the only way he can sell them at or near the $25--$30 USD target price. There basically is just no margin for resellers on this particular product meaning that in order for them (resellers) to make a profit they would need to sell them at something like $40--$45 USD. If Brian was selling them for $15 less obviously the resellers would get pissed so he would have to raise his price to match...and the entire point in the first place was to get some killer face plates out to dress up T3's at a very reasonable price.
This is not a serious issue for North American customers obviously because the shipping is going to be like 5 bucks. I PERSONALLY do not think it will be too big a deal for EU customers either because even if the shipping is $10 + to the EU that's the same or less then you would pay if they were selling there for around $40 US...of course it will take a little longer for shipping though.
Anyway that's the official word on Face Plates.
Thanks for that Geno. He plans to have them next week then?
Yes. They have already shipped and are due about The middle of the week, depending on customs (you never know with customs =) and they will be on the sites likely a day or 2 later.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I will post when they are for sale.
Still having fun playing with my TIII. If I had any remaining doubts about its value they were dispelled a short while ago.
I was wondering just what real impact the flow had on my system so I reduced the power on my pump to one and let it run for several munutes - no change in idle temps at all.
Idle temps don't mean squat, right? So I cranked it up to full load for 12 minutes and the load temps might have increased 1c, if that. Considering my OC @ 4410 i find that result to be just short of amazing unless I somehow am missing something obvious. Oh yes, ambient is steady for the last several days.
Yeah, I was wondering how long it would be before somebody thought of this =)Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
All the comments on whether or not the extra flow is helpful or not for temps are dependent on how you set up the loops and which blocks is true enough, but one of the first tests I did was to dial my vario down to 3 to see what happened. The loops get quieter and the pump is not working as hard. For me it is like buying a fast car...yeah the speed limit may be 65 but sometimes having that extra pedal comes in handy...
As far as I know your the first one to dial your pump down and post about it. Props for some free thinking Sir :cool:
Quiet is probably as important as cool to me. Past three the vario becomes audible. At three or under practically silent so it was an obvious test for me. I am running at three now not that I think it really needs it but because I feel like I should. As I get more comfortable I will probably go for two.
Thanks,
Gene
The only thing sweeter then winning yourself is when a good friend wins.
Congratulations to Brian "Boddaker" Carter for winning this years PAX with Neptune's Trident. First prize is the cover of CPU magazine, $1,500 in cash, an i7 965, a GTX 275 (not sure which brand), 6 GB of Patriot memory, and some other odds and ends I can't remember. Not a bad haul at all =)
Next up is the ION contest...likely not my best decision ever to accept the invitation for that one :shrug:
Hey...how did you know my name? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
Just wanted to post here again with an update to my previous posts detailing my experiences. The air has pretty much worked its way out of my loop now but the PC Pure black coolant has separated and has now become crystal clear. That probably means I have a black sludge deposit in either my CPU cooler, radiators, or both. I get to tear open my week old loop and clean out the rads and blocks. I am not a happy camper.
Overall my experience with the res itself has been very positive though and I am very happy with it.
Well thankfully I don't have anything to do with the dye stuff...so glad you like the T3 =)
Sorry you have to flush your loop though just the same.
That sucks dude, I would just get some black tubing so you can still have the black look, and switch over to the distilled water and silver now. Getting the black faceplate will help to break up all the clear liquid too. I hope. :)
Hopefully it is all in your CPU block, but I would hook your rad up to the kitchen faucet and flush it for a while with some hot water to make certain nothing got in there.
Greetings! While mine T3 in a way, I would like to consult concerning distribution of water blocks and a radiator on contours.
hardware:
Typhoon III
Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC Water Pumps
D-Tek FuZion v2
Swiftech MCW-NBMAX
3* EK-FC285 GTX PCB Rev.2 SLI - Nickel/Acetal
Watercool MO-RA 2 radiator
PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD
variant №1
T3 subloop 1: MORA-2 rad
T3 subloop 2: FuZion v2, MCW-NBMAX, parallel 3* EK-FC285
variant №2
T3 subloop 1: FuZion v2, MCW-NBMAX, MORA-2 rad
T3 subloop 2: series 3* EK-FC285
variant №3
T3 subloop 1: FuZion v2, MORA-2 rad
T3 subloop 2: MCW-NBMAX, series 3* EK-FC285
what variant is better?
Tanks guys.
I'm running my rad on its on loop and temps are fine, but i have a small loop.
I would probably try variant 3 with the GPUs in parallel and see how things look.
Yeah, I'm really not looking forward to tearing everything apart after i got it just like I wanted it. Oh well, it does have a couple of plus sides. A local shop sent a batch of HK3.0's out to have them nickle plated and they will be available in a couple days and a European shop finally started selling PT Nuke (still no kill coils though unfortunately). I already have black and red tubing and originally intended to use uncolored fluid but the PC Ice unfortunately arrived pre-mixed. I ordered it from a nieghboring country so returning it would have been prohibitively expensive so I just decided to use it. I have now ordered PT Nuke and will be using it after draining and cleaning and installing my new nickle plated HK3.0 :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
There you go. :up: Gives you the perfect excuse. Yea it will suck to clean it all up. :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
I had seen someone selling their nickel plated HK here and was thinking hard. I like by black top though. It goes with my subtle theme. :yepp:
Hey, can someone tell me whether a Typhoon 3 would help my temperatures?
Right now I have 2x MCR320, 1x MCR120 and an Swiftech GTZ cpu block. The thing is that I run my pump at setting 2, so I don't know if I'm getting too low of a flow. I'm looking at very roughly what flow rate I'd get through the loop with the Typhoon 3 and my pump at setting 2.
Doubt it.Quote:
Originally Posted by adpr_02
Your running all that rad on a CPU only loop? I hope you got some slow fans then, that is a ton of cooling potential.
Yeah, my pc is extremely quiet. Can't wait for SSD prices to drop so that I don't have to put up with my hard drive clicking.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
If you want to see if more flow will help temps, then turn the pump all the way to level 5, but seeing you have so much cooling potential there now, I would think your peak temps don't get that high.Quote:
Originally Posted by adpr_02
+1 on SSDs. I want to get one to boot Windows 7 off of. :)
Love my SSD's. Once you use them you cannot go back.
Back on topic, I run my vario at 3 and have not seen a difference in temp by running it at 5. However, I do use 5 to help get the last bit of air out of the loops and then turn it back down to 3.
I actually think it might if you ran in dual loop mode because the T3 can move a lot of water on vario setting 3. The D5 is nearly silent at setting 3 and bellow in my experience. Miller time is correct about you having a LOT of cooling power there but rads typically love the extra flow.Quote:
Originally Posted by adpr_02
All that being said, just don't expect HUGE temp drops. The question really is is it worth it for for 2-3 degrees and that would depend on where your temps are at now really.
I FINALLY have a few SSD's in the shop to play with for the portal sentry build and if they are quiet great, but I love how SMALL they are =)
My next work station is going to use the 15k SAS drives because they are just really fast, so I wonder how it will be going from silent to 15K drives...probably make me insane lol.
My cpu's running really toasty. I have a Q9550 @ 4ghz using 1.392V with speedstep disabled. It idles at 40C and loads at 60C with an ambient of about....25 - 28C. I cannot seem to get my temps lower than 38 or 36C. This processor is running quite a bit hotter than my q6600....
I can actually still hear my pump at setting 3, so I turn it further down. 2C would be very nice:D.
wow your tems are high, bad mount maybe? whats your loop?
I can't rate the performance of the Primochill Typhoon III.
I can rate their QC and Customer Service though :down:
Look what I got :
Cracked @ front fillport (probably drilled the hole and cracked it) :
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/...d1c9c2dd_b.jpg
Cracked side :
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/...e5fc6e0b_b.jpg
Opened a ticket and did not receive any response for the past 5 days!
Buyers beware :mad:
hchristian, are you aware this is a holiday weekend? The front image shows an imperfection in the mold not a crack (they all have that imperfection). I am not sure about the second one. I am sure you will have a response today.
I actually opened a ticket before the weekend, so hopefully they were off early or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Do you have another front shot to compare? I ran my fingernails along the line and it definitely felt like a crack, the sides too...:mad:
It's because my ambient is above 25C and my computer is underneath my desk (which gets way warmer than 25C). And my cpu needs a lot of Voltage. I did re-mount 3 times just to be sure though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
http://www.moddersmart.com/images/de...TIII_PEC_2.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
http://www.skinneelabs.com/Pumps/D5/...T3_mounted.jpg
http://www.skinneelabs.com/Pumps/D5/...-T3_volute.jpg
Mold flaws on sides and front. They are not cracks. I suggest you fill it up and leak test it.
Darth Beavis is right. Mine has these flaws as well and I remember reading about it either earlier in this thread somewhere or possibly in Skinnee's review. To prevent these minor mold flaws would require a mold change which would have cost in the tens of thousands so it was not an option. Once your res is installed and full they are hardly noticable.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
Mine has it too. I was concerned about it too, so I called Brian and he assured me it was.
It has been too. No leaks and I can barely see it as well. I run distilled water with silver too.
I would just install it. :yepp:
Thanks all for the clarification.
I am going to install it this weekend then.
Please post pics bud!!! Look forward to seeing your build. I suggest using the clear led plugs in the front if you do not need them in back.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Those clear LED plugs look great on the front. :yepp:
Any news when more of the top fillport versions will be coming into stock? Also the front plates?
Video of Bods Typhoons on my blog as well as the next two peoples' rigs who will own them.
Will post when it's done. Maybe do a log or something :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
I got a response too, sorry about my rants
no prob. we all need to vent sometimes.Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
Sorry I did not answer you sooner...up to my neck in case mod projects. Thanks everyone for answering this.Quote:
Originally Posted by hchristian
Correct. The two scratches are actually in the mold. They were not there for the gold sample we approved but WERE there on the first order of 1,000 parts that arrived :( ALL of them have identical scratches. I actually could have rejected the entire shipment but if you had seen the mountain of boxes filled with plastic...was way too expensive to ship it back to China to be shredded and reused. I am not some eco warrior but even I couldn't just dump them in some landfill. The next batch of fronts should have them polished out of the molds (I would swear they will but the injection molding company is in China...a bit of a crap shoot) But on the upside, Century Child is also correct in that they are not visable when the rez is filled.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
I just cut 10 top port fronts and should have them shipped out to Primo by Wednesday or Thursday so Brian will likely have them on Pre sale Thursday or Friday and available to ship by Monday or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
Face plates cleared Customs I believe (I will check for sure the next time I talk to Brian) and should be on their site any day now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Yeah...those actually DO look better then I thought they would...I designed up some slightly smaller metal plugs to work better with the new face plates but I actually like the way the clear looks better now that I see it lol. Didn't you show me that pic a while back DB?Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I need more sleep lol.
OK, just talked with Brian and he says the face plates are there and look great. He is going to get some pictures to show the new grain direction (the correct direction) later today if he can. He also said he can put them on moddersmart.com today for those who don't mind plain packaging and no instructions.
Installation is pretty straight forward...apply the double back tape around the edge on the back and press the face plate onto your T3. You may need to adjust the T3 back some as the face plate is 1/16" thick. If your case does not have the adjustable type slots in the optical bays (most cases do) you may need to file the holes back a tiny bit--2 minute job if your a case modder, but if your not a "tinker with it type" have a look at your case before ordering please =)
There are 50 brushed anodized black, 40 brushed silver, and 10 polished...when they are gone they are gone so if you need a face plate...don't wait.
BG-
Are these going to be up on the site, or should we contact PrimoChill/Moddersmart specifically about the faceplates, separately? Just checked both sites (just in case) and didn't see them yet. Can you tell I can't wait to order this?!? heh Thanks.
On a question of worth, would it be worth it to swap out 2 355's w/ XSPC tops for a primochill to run the proposed:
Loop 1: GTZ, PA 120.2; SR1 120
Loop 2: MCW30, XSPC 4870x2; PA 120.2; SR1 120
Otherwise I'd be running it all in series with the 2 DDC 3.2's.
Going from a dual to a parallel will probably not show any temp improvements. It should clean of the case though, one less pump and res. I would look at XSPC's new bay res as you already have 2 355s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
SHOULD be up on the sites today I am told.
Rgr that. I've been watching both sites, but haven't seen anything so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Just anxious to make sure I don't miss picking up one of these!
On a question of worth, would it be worth it to swap out 2 355's w/ XSPC tops for a primochill to run the proposed:
Loop 1: GTZ, PA 120.2; SR1 120
Loop 2: MCW30, XSPC 4870x2; PA 120.2; SR1 120
Otherwise I'd be running it all in series with the 2 DDC 3.2's.
look up a couple of posts ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by CedricFP
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I see. But this XSPC res will only allow for separate loops? Or will it allow for a series configuration?Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Yes, my apologies. My browser glitched but the time frame is extremely odd.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
It will be dual loops. The unit is divided into 2 separate res'
O and not a problem ;)
It looks like there are a couple of T3's on PrimoChill, still don't see faceplates up yet. Might not be there till tomorrow. :(
Same here, been watching all day :) I really hope I don't miss snagging a black ano'ed one.. :(
It was weird that all of the T3s on PrimoChill's site used to be available for pre-order but now I notice just the regular T3 is available for pre-order and none of the other ones are.
C'mon faceplates...
:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
Well Geno is drilling some top ports atm. Brian could also be waiting for the demand to settle down before trying to stock the versions that come with a pump too.
I can't wait for the faceplates too. It should look pretty nice with the those.
I can't wait either. I'm camping both sites right now waiting for the face plates :D
Me too but unfortunately I have to go to bed soon (getting late here in western Europe). I wish he would have just let me pre-order one. I'm gonna be pretty peeved if I miss out on this. I'm sure there will be no lack of demand for these.
Chrome ones are up on PrimoChill...
http://www.primochill.com/typhoon-ii...e-chrome-.html
Hopefully that means the other ones aren't far behind and Brian is just uploading the pages or something
:shocked::shocked:
chrome faceplates up: http://www.primochill.com/typhoon-ii...e-chrome-.html
just need black now, come on Brain :D
He is adding them all right now...I don't think they are going to sell out in one day lol. I meant don't wait till like Monday then be mad at me lol.
how about the res with fillport
seems like its out of stock
Black and silver are up now too. Got my black one ordered. That's a relief. I'll sleep much better tonight now.
strike - That's been covered today too a few posts back. BoxGods is currently busy drilling out parts for the top fillport models (I assume that is what you are asking about).
w0000t!!!
Just got mine ordered
:party::rocker::bananal::eleph:Quote:
Order placed
Congratulations! Your order has been placed successfully.
Almost forgot... BIG thanks to Geno and Brian @ PC for these!! :up::up:
Drilling? Drilling is for dentists and oil men...I got fricken sharks with lasers man...ok...no sharks :DQuote:
Originally Posted by century child
Should ship by tomorrow so I think they will presale this weekend and ship to customers on or about Monday. I amd doing 10 so no worries as that will last a week to 10 days.
Sorry about that, didn't mean to cheapen your work like that ;)
I ordered a black one too. Now it should stand out a lot less in my black lian li case :)
ok thanks!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
What kind of coolant can i use for T3? since the Feser One can erode the T3?
I really want the red color!
PC Ice with a red dye bomb.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadiantire
The metal plugs that come with the T3 are a bit big (to my eye anyway) when the face plate is installed. There are smaller diameter rounded ones that look better, and also the clear LED plugs that come with it (but leave the cap off) look pretty good too.
I drew up a very simple and slightly smaller metal plug but it will be a while before they arrive.
http://geno.boxgods.com/Capture_01743.JPG
not too expensive either. May want to order those or extra clear LED plugs if your using the 2 that come with the T3.
http://www.primochill.com/primochill...sl=EN¤cy
distilled water+dye works?
personally i dont like dye. Is there other red coolant available for T3?
all colored coolants are colored with dye.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadiantire
Distilled water and dye will work, or PC Ice works too.
Do you know if I would still need Biocide like PT-Nuke with that? I plan on getting blue. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
not with PC Ice.
Great!Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Can someone post some pics show the T3 in dark with LED?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I confuse how to put the LED at front
You use those clear plugs, place the LED in the hole, thread the cable through the slot on the cap and tighten the cap down.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadiantire
Then just loop the wire back into the machine and plug it in.
Feedback/question: I have a modded T3 (not sure if this affects performance)
My main loop as it turns out is very very very restrictive. And the my 2nd is almost unobstructed(its just a internal feedback loop to drive waterfall affect of the custom resvervoir).
Since water goes with the path of least resistance, its seems like if there is any difference in the flow path, that water will only really flow in the open loop, while there is very little flow in the other.
Has anyone else experienced this ? Are you guys balancing restriction of the loops at all ?
It helps if you give the wire like 3 or 4 turns counter clockwise before you slide it into the plug so that when you turn the cap to tighten it down your unwinding wire and end with it neutral...does that make sense...???Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Actually the PEC acts a bit like a load or pressure balance...obviously it would not equalize 2 loops as far apart pressure wise as yours are but it makes having the loops exactly balanced a lot less critical.Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrout
Without knowing all the details of your set up (and even then it's still a lot of educated guesses) there is no way to say for sure yes or no. Have you run the set up and checked out your temps? Worst case you may have to reroute your loops to move an item or two off the "really really really" restrictive loop. Keep in mind that the T3 can move 2 times the water of other D5 tops in some setups so even if your restrictive loop was only getting 35% of the split between loops you might still have enough flow. Run it and see. You could also use a small clamp (aka a clothes pin) and constrict the lin into the waterfall and observer your temps to see if restricting that loops lowers temps on the other one. If it does, I would start with movning a rad or two from the cooling loop to the waterfall loop.
If your waterfall rez is one Of Warren's he can tell you how much flow you need for the waterfall to look good.
Yeah I have the big 5 bay one, and I am doing exactly that. The main loop is res to feser 360 to HK, NB, VID back to res.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
pic
Even at speed 5 it wasnt giving me enough flow to make the fall shine, so luckly I had the 2nd outlet to use. So its just a 2nd loop with a worm clamp to open and constrict flow as I test. I just had no way to telling how much flow is now going to the primary loop. So thought to ask what others have done in uneven restriction loops.
thx boxgods.
Great, 3,5M screws are nowhere to be found in shops around here... Why not use standard M3 or M4 screws, now I can put my build on hold to find these mysterious M3,5 screws. And my T3 had already been collecting dust because the PCICE fluid was messed up. I really dont get this.
I have a bunch of 3.5mm x 12 mm and 3.5 mm x 16 mm. How many and what size do you need?Quote:
Originally Posted by damunk
The standard screws are just a few mm too short because my case uses this horrible mounting system. But since I live in the NL it would take forever to ship anyhow for just a few screws, I appreciate the gesture tho.
Lookin for a iron shop but seems its going to be quite the drive for those 4 damn screws :/
I can email the screws.Quote:
Originally Posted by damunk
If you can then I would also like to know what ISP ur using :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
:rofl: classicQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
www.hexscrews.com
Item# 5SC3.5x12
Item# 5SC3.5x16
Nevermind the emailing. Comcast has a cap on usage.
:shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Dude, that is awesome, hook me up with what your using. :yepp:
:D
6-32 should workQuote:
Originally Posted by damunk
Yeah, the M3.5 drives me nuts too. When I specified the screws there was a sort of mix up. They used M3 inserts and I thought those were too small so I said please go up one size thinking M4 (I did not even know there was an M3.5) and they went up to M3.5.
I have them looking for an M4 insert that has the same OD as the M3.5 they are using so that future batches can have M4 ...you know cause life is not confusing enough now :rofl:
I will probably just try and secure it with the M3 screws.. They seem to have some grip...
Running the res/pump on its own loop now to check if my fitting leak with the bigger orings I got, so far so good. Just one more question before I put it in my build, what to do with the washers supplied with the T3? The sticky ones are the ones im talking about.. Haven't used them but also not getting any leaks... yet:p:
I mentioned your problem with a dye bomb to Brian at Primo Chill and he said "lemme guess, it was a black dye bomb". Apparently Black is very hard to do for a dye bomb because it requires so much dye or something. He said he would be happy to replace the black whith another color, or that if you needed black for your build to set you up with some Black PrimoFlex LRT. Just email him or better yet start a ticket and he would square you away.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
The little black ones are for mounting so isolate any vibration from your chassis. One on the T3 and one on the washer so the mounting cage is sandwhiched.Quote:
Originally Posted by damunk
Thanks for that! The coolant I was using was PC Pure. I originally ordered it intending to just use it clear without the dye bomb since the description said it would be delivered un-mixed but it actually arrived already mixed. I haven't been able to tear the loop apart yet to check for build-up but I can see staining through the top of my video card block (EK 295 single PCB block nickel with plexi top). No build up in there but the channels are nice and wide so I wouldn't expect any. My thinking though is that all the black dye would pretty much have to have accumulated somewhere, right? I mean it couldn't have just dissolved. I'll shoot him a mail but when he finds out I'm in Germany I doubt he'll be willing to ship tubing here due to the high cost of shipping.
It's probably in your CPU block.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
Well maybe he can get one of the German resellers to ship you out some. Where are you at in Germany? I lived in Augsburg for 6-7 years and in Munich for a year or so. been back a few times also.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
BoxGods, I'm going to get a Typhoon III but I need to use a 90* barb on the outlet of the reservoir, so for that, I'll need a Bitspower 90* dual rotary barb, I've seen people having leaking issues so do you think it'll be ok?
It sounds like bigger o-rings were solving those leaking issues. I thought a few people linked the exact sizes a few pages back. Geno might remember when he gets on.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
I have been over here for 8 1/2 years now and live about 45 minutes south of Munich near a town called Bad Tölz. You may have heard of it while you were in Munich. It is a pretty popular weekend retreat for the city dwellers.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Unfortunately there are no German shops that have any kind of Primochill selection. No tubing or fittings. A couple have the TIII and PC Pure fluid and Dye Bombs but that's about it. It looks like you have to go to U.K. to find anything else.
Bleeding and leak-testing now... and wow the D4 is noisy, and it won't even spin up at 7V. I put it on my fan controller for a little while, which helped a bit, but then the controller let out some magic smoke and that was the end of that....