Nice result...I see 2GB...was it not possible with 4GB of RAM in you sig?Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearjock
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Nice result...I see 2GB...was it not possible with 4GB of RAM in you sig?Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearjock
I had 4 gigs running at the same timings/voltage, but I had to RMA two sticks as a result of errors. They're on their way back so I will be back on 4 momentarily.
Before I plumb this mobo into my loop I need to test it with an air cooler. Ive heard that many are not compatible due to the heatpipe system so can anyone tell me a decent cooler that will fit this board please.
Huh!!! I have no problems using my TRUE with 2 P12's in push/pull.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas hobbes
heres one i built few months ago for a friend, no probs with the ifx-14
http://sargatanas.gwebspace.de/DSC00153.jpg
Ok thanks, I'll take a look at the X-14 then althought its a tad expensive. This build is turning into a nightmare. I just tried to remove the heatsink on my GTX280 in order to fit my new EK block and two of the ten screws on the back of the gpu heatsink havent been screwed in straight, there is no way that they can be unscrewed as basically the thread has been locked. Gutted!
Its not like I can RMA a working card to BFG because I cant get the heatsink off, they'll send it straight back to me probably. Any suggestions?
Wow, old post but I didnt see it until now.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Yeha I do use all the disks in the same machine. Why do you ask?
Can you upload it at imageshack? It wont load here lolQuote:
Originally Posted by sargatanas
Wow you finally answered! lol!Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemic
8 drives with 6 SATA ports, how do you have the two left connected? RAID card? if so, which one and hows the performance? PCI or PCI-Ex? What about optical storage drives? :shrug:
I didn't even get past 48 hours ownership & soak testing when the supplied Asus 1/2" to 3/8th "reducers failed, you know the rest, so all be warned. I got nowhere after 7 months negotiation with Asus (for manufacturer replacement mobo or even my own cost repair) & the retailer so I'm a Asus-free-zone from now on. China-based shambolic customer care for UK and Europe anyway. Only Manu's with Lifetime & Part-ex /trade in warranties products get my money, like EVGA & BFG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trigger5521
Trigger5521, I noticed you to have thw Gateway 30" Quad HD Monitor, what do you think? I love mine but I get green fluorescent artefacts (almost like a negative picture) on my desktop and in games occasionally. I don't get any problems on my picture in picture image though at the same time. I spoke to Gateway and they said it had something to do with the refresh rate, have you noticed such a problem with your setup? Cheers, any help appreciated.
First...my water cooling corrosion issue ended up being a faulty Apogee aluminum top...it had chips and cracks in it. The protective coating was not protecting. This started the reaction...ASUS fusion block was not responsible but ended up in the trash because you can't take it apart to clean it.See picQuote:
Originally Posted by optical10
(swifttech sent me a new top but I'm not using it can't trust ALU in the loop..d-tek fusion now)
I'm liking the monitor, no issues at all with my Gateway, no bannding, pretty even backlight no dead pixels. Take a screen shot of your issue so i can see what you mean. My only wish would be if these massive 30's could be made to run alot cooler, heats up your room in summer. OLED maybe the future solution to that.
I ended up busting the Fusion block off and using thermal epoxy to glue a swiftech MC-30 chipset block in place, temps are better than they were with the fusion block. I just couldnt convince myself to get rid of the heatipipe set up, I love the way it looks. And on top of that now I have 1/2 inch barbs!
Yeah, I also like the heatpipe, but it does nothing for the SB so thats why Im replacing it. Hate to get rid of it though...
can anyone confirm if the fuzion is copper or alu? I don't want to mix metals :(
hmm, brilliant board, and brilliant overclocks, but we need to know about the fusion block before we buy it for its watercooling goodness.
Fusion Block is copper. Though it is not mandatory to put on water, if you insist on doing so it might be a good idea to remove and reapply the original thermal paste put on by the manufacturer. Mine is under water here on a separate loop since I had some extra parts and a res lying around so I figured why not, no leak issues to date.
As far as the adapters that came with the mobo, here's what you do with them...throw them as far as you can over your fence or balcony, they are nothing but trouble.
Well there was a big discussion on the liquid cooling section and everybody seemed to agree the block was ALU and not copper.
Im not taking the risk, Im just gonna buy a nb block, Bitspower Black Freezer and water cools the SB too :D
Well I'm just going on what an ASUS rep reported so I had to go with their word per se. The fusion block itself is copper and the heatsink that it rests on is alu. They are separate components in a way, the fluid only goes into the block itself, no contact with the aluminum heat sinks. In the end I would say if you want the best results anyway, definitely the best bet is to dump the heatpipe assembly like you are and just slap new blocks on there.
How's your board been behaving btw Slim, hopefully all issues have been cured? :)
Well, no problems over here since Im in stock. Cant overclock since CPU heatsink has no fan and I wont overclock RAM cause I dont want to kill them lol.
Waiting for water cooling parts to go for 3.6Ghz again :D
Good to hear, or see for that matter.:D
Not even a stock crappy intel cooler on there? Wonder what the temps are like, sounds brave regardless. :up::D
its solid copper, I cut through mine with a saw.
I was going to say that the Fusion block itself is way to heavy to be just aluminum. Since I'm not going to move to liquid anytime soon, I yanked mine off and replaced it with a EnzoTech CNB-S1, sorta figured it had to be better than that hunk of metal for cooling. Drilled two extra holes in the CNB-S1, lopped off the extra from the mounting ears, applied a bit of MX-2 and used the factory screws to attach it.
The next step may be an EnzoTech SLF-1 on the southbridge, a Swiftech MCX159-CU on the northbridge and ENZOTECH MST-81 on the mosfets. Gointg to see how the temps are with the modified heat pipe monstrosity first.
Yeah it has a lot of weight to it. I am seeing temps in the 35-45C range full load on my NB, so Its at least working better than air. It seems that ambient has a larger factor on my NB than my CPU under water. Maybe one of these days I'll put independant blocks on the NB/SB but im satisfied for now. I have both video cards the motherboard, and CPU in one loop and temps are good so far. CPU showing 55C in core temp full load, so im feelin pretty good. Debating on going with a water chiller or maybe somthing more exotic like a SS, but I'm having trouble finding an affordable one avaliable in the USA that would hold up to my QX9650. I would love 5ghz 24-7 but maybe its just out of reach.Quote:
Originally Posted by vladimir
well I just got my board today and it seems like copper. As for the guy that had gunk with his swiftech gtx, it seems that there was a crack in the alu which caused the problems. I am going to say it is copper because the rep said it is and so do some other people who have different boards with stock asus waterblocks. As for the fittings, they look like a joke lol
i was just wondering does anyone know if there are any pencil mods available for this board yet? ive just been looking at my vcore and ive set 1.45000 in bios and cpuz is reporting 1.360-1.375 under load at 3.7ghz 1850x8...
Can't complain about my 3rd SIIE neither :DQuote:
Originally Posted by OBR
Running flawless for months now.
It all depends on the chips, has nothing to do with board manufactures.
As far as i know all of them are build by Foxcon.