Printable View
I can't get it to boot even to the bios screen, so i'm not sure which version is on the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by XII
I'm trying to get hold of a 920 to see if that will boot. Just can't get it till next weekend. Thanks for your reply though.
The CPU is okay, for sure?
FF means normally the CPU is dead...
I have a BE here too and i works with a 990x out of the box perfectly...
Christian
My guess is the cpu is not supported. He essentially has an i7 965 with a locked multiplier. Which there is no equivalent i7 'non xeon.'
Have you tried the "ROG Flash" feature or whatever it is called that allows you to update the bios using a usb drive and not entering bios?
The W3570 IS a i7-965 Xeon equivalent and has an unlocked multiplier. There is a Xeon equivalent for practically every i7 CPU.
EDIT: The feature is actually called 'USB BIOS Flashback'.
Anyone else water cooling this board?
I had trouble with this CPU in the Classified board I have as well. It also gave me an FF, but now it works in the Classified. I think some of the contacts may be wearing off, as i have had it under Phase cooling and Air cooling. So it has been in and out of the board a few times and some of the contacts aren't round anymore. They look like a small part of the edge has come off. That maybe the issue. My friend is giving me his 920 to try in the board tomorrow. Hopefully that is all it is as this is a pretty cool board.Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz3l
It doesn't have a locked Multiplier.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
I thought you could only flash back to an older bios with this and not update to the latest. The problem being that I have never booted it up, so have no idea which bios is on the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
It will update the BIOS to whatever version you have on the usb drive. For the R3E the BIOS file needed to be named 'R3E.rom'. Don't know exactly what it is for the R3BE. Maybe switch to BIOS2 so you know what version originally shipped with the board.
Cool, will try this then if I have no joy with the 920. Thanks for yours and all the above posts for your help guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
No prob MaddMuppet and good luck. I got FF code with a W3680 once. Don't know if it was dead or not supported. As unlikely as it seems, it may just not support Xeon CPUs. Hell Asus forgot to add the Marvell ROM until BIOS 0602. I hope you get it to work though, R3BE is simply amazing.
Well I put in the 920 from my friends PC and I still get the FF code as soon as i start the PC. Looks like a motherboard issue. Can someone please explain how to use the bios flash back thanks.
check your MB socket pins are they make full contact to the cpu?
got more test of qpi data link with R2E
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/4361/qpi.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
just wanted to past some time with clocks mania, all on air.
None of them look bent. The board itself looks like it's brand new. I noticed the little LED beside the QPI_LL_SW jumper is always Red when pressing the start button.Quote:
Originally Posted by xpower
It may be a dud board unfortunately. What component is indicated by the LED? I'd try BIOS Flashback as a last resort. Internet wasn't much help on how to do it on R3BE, so I'd say your best bet is finding Shamino and asking him by PM. I know he's on kingpincooling forums. Or ASUS support forums.
no just check if cpu makes proper contact to the pins not talking about bent pins.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMuppet
Cool, thanks will try that.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
This may sound silly, but how will I be able to tell. I know the CPU fits in the socket fine, but you can't see if there is contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by xpower
Did you try your second bios chip?
Did you try a single stick of memory in all of your grey memory sockets, individually? To rule out the possibility of bad memory channels?
Have you made sure your PCI slots are turned on?
Have you tried changing your QPI LL jumper to see if that makes a difference?
Have you tried turning on/off the LN2 mode jumper?
Can you use a DMM to take voltage readings from the readout points to verify voltage is at the correct levels?
Did you test your cpu in your friend's motherboard?
Did you test your friend's memory? Did you test your memory in your friend's cpu?
I tried all those except for the Voltage readings.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
If your cpu and your memory works in your friend's motherboard, and none of the other things helped get yours started. It's time to stop talking and start RMAing. ;)
You maybe right, but i doubt they would have stock anywhere of this board now.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Just picked up some mushkin 999057. 7-7-7-24 1T 1600MHz 3x4GB modules. Got two kits for 24GB.
I'm currently running 8-9-8-24-1T with a 3x4GB 10-10-10-27-1T 2000MHz and 3x2GB 6-8-6-24-1T 1600MHz modules for 18GB total.
I'll probably sell the 10-10-10-27 kit but keep the 6-8-6 kit for benching.
Really depends on how awesome the new kit is. ;) Who knows, maybe three of the new sticks will do 6-6-6 or 6-7-6!
@zoson
whats your max Gflops at 4.6ghz HT on and off with what ram speed and timings?
With my old memory:Quote:
Originally Posted by xpower
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...g?t=1327225660
New mem runs 8-8-8-24-1T no problem at 1866. So I would expect a small improvement in GFlops. I didn't do a diagnostic mode run last night though, just a regular one so I don't know how much exactly.
Interesting thing though, mushkin reversed the direction of the fins on redline... So they're opposite now.
Hello guys.
I just successfully modded my Rampage III Extreme 1502 BIOS with Intel RAID Option ROM 11.1.0.1413, found on station-drivers.
http://www.station-drivers.com/forum...=3667&start=15
On first reboot, the option rom loads fine, no lock ups etc and RAID seems to be fully working in windows.
I haven't tested the modded BIOS in normal SATA mode yet on the Intel controller.
I followed the AMI MMTOOL V3.22 BKMOD instructions posted by R37ribution in the thread below, post #594
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post5011428
The thing is as this is my first time modding a BIOS, I don't have a clue what to look for if there is any problems.
Could somebody here with modding experience with this board, please let me know what to look out for if the BIOS mod with Intel Option ROM was unsuccessful?
Thanks much for your feedback.
By the way, I thought people said this board couldn't be updated with Intel Option ROM 11 because it wouldn't work, the board or BIOS is incompatible?
Hola guys i have been out of the loop for a long time now and i need some advice. My old R3E will run only dual channel memory ( i killed first Ram slots a long time ago while running it on Ln2 due to water condensation on the slots ). Im running 2x2GB kit of memory at the moment , i would like some advice on wich Rams 2x4GB are compatible that can run at low Cas lat. at around 1700-1800 , this is my 24/7 Rig running an i7 950 at 4400Mhz on water. So wich fully compatible tested Ram kit 2x4GB cas 7 or 8 ca n you guys reccomend me ? I will apretiate any advice , thank you.
I have some Mushkin 998953 for sale. 3x 4GB kit. 1600MHz at 7-8-7-24-82-1T. Kit will also do 1866MHz at 8-9-8-24-88-1T, and 2000MHz 9-10-9-25-110-1T. All at stock 1.65v DRAM.Quote:
Originally Posted by chispy
Keep in mind, bloomfield requries very high QPI volts for 4GB sticks. You will need ~1.5v. I tested this kit with my bloomfield at 1.4875v QPI/DRAM and 1.656v DDR. I recently upgraded to 24GB, so got six sticks of new stuff to avoid any possible compatibility issues.
If you're in the states and interested, shoot me a PM.
Thank you for the offer zoson , appretiate it , but when it comes to Ram i do prefer to buy it brand new. Im looking at some Ram Kits at newegg , pretty low prices for 2x4GB Ram kits at the moment , range from $51US Dollars to $79US Dollars for a good Ram kit Cas 7. I will do some research on them first , i would like to hear more of what you guys have tested so far , im not in a hurry , thank you in advance guys.
nobody tests dual kits on this board.Quote:
Originally Posted by chispy
For dual channel, 2x 4Gb`s, look for a decent Hynix kit, AFR en BFR (7-8-7 kits Ripjaw RH), both run ~ 1800 7-8-7 or 8-9-8. 3x dual make hex, and they run op to 1900.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by chispy
Thank you very much apretiate it , exactly the answer i was looking for :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by XII
@sozon thanks
Interesting
Is it true i can't use 6X2 Go of GS.KILL PC16000 C6 on my R3E BE ?
A friend of mind tell me i have only 8 of 10 Go on the board.
Edit i make a error i want to use 12 Go of ram with 6X2 Go of GS.KILL 6 Go PC 16000 C6 6-9-6 24 1T 1.65V.
My RIII is still rock'in my 930 at 4.2Ghz. Just upgraded to 12GB of ram and a ASUS GTX 670, thinking about picking up a cheap 980X.
12 Go with 6X2 Go of ram ?Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyBoyGeo
Edit i make a error i want to use 12 Go of ram with 6X2 Go of GS.KILL 6 Go PC 16000 C6 6-9-6 24 1T 1.65V.
Got a great deal on 3x2GB more of the Mushkin, for a total of 6x2GB. Hoping it will still run 1603 6-8-6-24 fine.
With my X980 i run at 1925 6-9-6 24 1T 1.65V uncore at 3691.
Ans some time at more 2000.
You have 12 Go on cpu Z but in the bios a friend of mind tell me it just have 8 or 10 Go
I have R3BE with all the memory slots populated (6x2 GB modules). They are properly and completely recognized by BIOS (12 GB) and available to 64 bit O.S.
My modules are OCZ blade triple channel kit 16000 CAS7.
With a Gulftown, up to 12GB is easy. The number of sticks doesn't matter. You will be able to do 2GHz+ without any problem. If I run 3x 4GB, I can go all the way up to 2.2GHz on 1.65v DDR and 1.35v QPI.
Populating all six sockets with 4GB modules will be no problems up to about 1833MHz. From there it depends on the IMC.
I'm currently running 6x 4GB 1600MHz 7-7-7-24-1T Mushkin Redline 999057 modules at 1866MHz 8-8-8-24-1T... That's as fast as my IMC will go.
New internal bios build 1601 available for the R3E. No word yet on what's new and changed in this new BIOS version.
HERE
Not sure what you mean? Go = GB? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Le Titi
It is a common problem that in X58 some RAM sticks might drop off due to various reasons. I'm running two kits of Corsair Dominator GT 1866 MHz 7-8-7 (6x2GB) RAMs on my R3 Black Edition, but I had to loosen the timings to CL8-8-8 for them to work properly. If I try for higher frequency, I have only 4 GB of 12 GB in windows usable. I didn't tweak any more, could have needed a voltage bump for the QPI or so, and was just happy with what I got.
Same problem here
Ive got a prob with my rig. Doesnt want to past Memory test. Powering without problem. black monitor. Cant get in to bios. All ive done so fare is Played with Memory Stick and Channel without succses.
Wife was playing whan my pc Turned off with some noise. Since than cant get in to Windows.
Any idea what else i can try? Did my 3 sticks died?
Have you tried all your memory sticks individually? Try putting stick #1 into slot #1, then slot #2, then slot #3 etc etc. If it does not pass the test then try this with older ram if you have some lying around. If your system passes the test then yes you have a bad ram stick somewhere. If you already did this then oh boy lets hope its not a bad memory controller. Not sure what to do if it stays that way with all your ram modules. But, I would remove all my hardware and install a backup known to work vga card, clear cmos and see what happens with one stick in various slots on each try. There is a lot of trouble shooting a head for you today that is for sure. I would also be breaking out my meter and testing for proper voltage on all my psu rails. Good luck...Quote:
Originally Posted by playground
sounds like a bad memory controller to me. very unlikely that all three sticks would die... sucks... but intel should cover it.
Ive tried to swap mem sticks and play with mem slots but no go. Tomorrow ill take cpu to my pal for tests. What is warranty on Intel cpus? 1 year?
3 years directly from intel and 2 years from the direct supplier, if you are in EU.
Brama is correct, its 3 years for a boxed CPU. Has anyone been successful at RMA'ing a chip that was aggressively overclocked like his was though? In his signature it shows 4.5ghz, so I am curious if Intel does tests to check this stuff before they send a replacement. I have dropped my OC down to 3.8 @ 1.2v under water just to keep my 930 as healthy as possible. I cant afford a replacement though if I was to kill it lol...
I just received a new 980x from an RMA by Intel Europe. The faulty one was 2 years old and worked mostly at 4400.4500 MHz with 1.45 V. I don't know if I was lucky or Intel don't test the RMA faulty processors.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Hmm, yeah they probably don't have the time or means to do such tests and unless the consumer is dumb enough to mention it in the RMA request that they had it overclocked Intel probably just looks the other way. Its probably bad practice to risk hassling a legitimate non-overclocking customer that got a dud, just on a hunch lol... However, if you lap your cpu I guess you can kiss any hope of an rma goodbye... hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Brama
Well my cpu was oced to 4,6Ghz but for a short time. For 24/7 i was run it at 4,2Ghz at 1,4v. My cpu is 2years Old aswell. Bought it from Overclokers UK. Where or how can i request RMA from Intel?
Check on Intel web site the procedures. Normally you have to phone to a free number and explain your troubles with cpu. If you have a working cpu, you have to destry it in a not visible way. It is very risky and I suggest not to try.Quote:
Originally Posted by playground
My cpu was really faulty when I asked for an RMA.
LOL noobs at that site taking credit for the work done here, not to mention thieving my avatar like the pack of lying impersonators they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylver123
What exactly did we steal from you?Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
The modded BIOS for the Asus Rampage III Extreme we made was from a
untouched BIOS downloaded from ASUS website and ROM modules that
are freely downloadable from the internet, you just need to search.
We then used MMTool to update/replace the ROM modules within the BIOS.
We would never use someone else's work (Existing BIOS mod that was made
by somebody else) and say it's our own work.
If we are using any of your contents, modules etc that you put into your own
work then we are sorry, we didn't know they were yours and someone had
shared them without your permission on other sites and not given you credit.
your 'hero' not only stole my 1601 bios, but he stole my avatar.
It has the exact same MD5 hash as my file.
I am not sure what you're talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
ZioGTS didn't steal your 1601 BIOS.
It was a member breakdown234 that shared it first with us on the bios-mods
website and he specifically said he got the 1601 BIOS straight from ASUS.
http://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Threa...ules?pid=46917
If you look at the thread in the bios-mods website above you will see it was a
member breakdown234 that shared it their first.
My 1601 modded bios is the same as the 'v1' bios. I gave it out to a few people, so I don't know where he got it from.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylver123
It's obvious he's a thief since he's BRAND NEW, it's even more obvious since he also stole my avatar.
Maybe he's figured out how to do it on his own now, but no small wonder since it's stupidly easy.
What u gone say about 1long and 2 short beeps? Is it graphic card faulty?
Anyone know anything about a full x16 PCI-e 2.0 quad/4-way SLI hack on the R3E?
UrbanSmooth, the X58 chipset does not have enough PCI-E lanes to do that, period. No 'hack' can get around that fact. It is a hardware limitation.
Translation: time to upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Thank you, it's what I needed to read.
You can do 8x8x8x8x with the rog expander... the pci-e interface isn't really a bottleneck at 8x.
Does the eSata port on the Rampage III Extreme support the port multiplier function, so that I can add a 5-port Sata hub?
http://www.jmicron.com/JMB363.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by TreyWingbat
• Supports Port Multiplier with Command-based Switching on SATA II port
So that is the black SATA port on the back, and I would need to buy a SATA to eSATA cable to connect to the hub?
With command-based switching, I can only access one disk at a time, right? Does that mean I cannot transfer files from one disk to another?
The Hub should come with the necessary cable to attach to the computer. Its just a normal shielded eSata cable (eSata to eSata). It connects to the eSata port on the mobo back-plate, and then to the hubs eSata port on the back. I would be surprised if the Hub makes you purchase a separate cable, lol... Unless, its using a standard sata port which you normally see on external sata drive enclosures, but not on eSata devices. On a eSata Hub, there should be an eSata port on the back with a eSata cable provided... The one I had came with a eSata port on the back and my RIIIE has an eSata port on its rear and it seemed to work great. However, I have no clue if it can transfer from one connected disk to another, as I never did get that far before giving the thing to my Father. He prefers using his older smaller disks and I just kept buying bigger drives and giving away my aging drives, lol. Oh and yes, you are required to furnish the cables you need to go from the hub to the storage devices, which can be both Sata or eSata devices... even a optical drive should work fine provided you have the correct cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by TreyWingbat
Wish I would have stuck to what your planning instead of building a Home Server for my large storage/media drives. lol
both the passthru and the back panel support it. obviously easier to do with the back panel port.
This system is similar to a mechanical A/B switch or Ethernet hub. The controller can issue commands to only one disk at a time and cannot issue commands to another disk until the command queue has been completed for the current transactions. This also hampers the use of Native Command Queuing (NCQ). This means that the full bandwidth of the link will most likely not be used. This kind of switching is therefore used when capacity is the major concern, and not performance.
So yeah copying from one disk to another that are both on the same port will be very slow.
Ok, so I just use the green eSata port on the mobo then. Transfer files at a high rate of speed won't be too much of an issue for me... but it would be nice to transfer some files here and there if I had to. I'm going to order the hub then... and setup my monster storage system!
Yes, it is the green eSata port on the back. You could also do what I do and connect the lone black Sata port on the bottom right hand side of the board directly to a eSata/USB expansion slot bracket as well. I believe the RIIIE came with that expansion slot bracket in the mobos retail box. However, the green port should do just fine ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by TreyWingbat
I was hot-swapping a couple of drives today, I really should have powered down the system. Anyway, now when I boot my computer I see this bios error:
'SATA port 2 device error'
But, there doesn't appear to be any problem. The drive works fine on that particular SATA port. In case it was a problem with my hard drive, I plugged it into a different SATA port on the R3E, and did not get the error message in the boot process.
Has anyone seen this error?
Well I'm not sure I have ever seen that myself, however it does look sorta familiar, lol...
What you could do is simply save your current settings profile and then clear CMOS back to default and reboot. See if you still get the error after clearing the cmos, if its gone, then load back your original settings and see if it re-appears. If it does re-appear, then you need to just clear cmos and re-do your settings in the bios fresh. There is some testing a head for sure but it don't seem like a huge problem. Almost seems like you might have some corruption with the MBR on the drive itself that the hardware's firmware is recognizing and complaining about.
By the way, nice 3-way SLI setup and Monitors you have there. I'm envious, lol...
Hello everyone,
I have a Rampage III Extreme, i7 930, 6gb(3x2gb) corsair dominator gt 1866mhz 9 9 9 27...1,65v , gtx 580...
I have for long time an stable overclock 4.0, but now it became unstable... so I tryed that O.C. settings on the first page and when I go for stress test I got blue screen, maybe because I didn't change the timmings of my memory, because Im afraid to burn it out ;P
so what I can do? or someone can pass me a profile of ur bios configuration please?:D
and other issue I have is my ssd crucial c300 128gb doesnt work on sata 3 ports, only work on sata 2... that's because marvell controller sux or is other way to we use sata 3 on our bord?
thanks for help :D
So none wants help me?:down:
Hello boys.
They know if we will have update of bios for Windows 8 ?
Does anyone know if there is an undo command for bios changes. All I want to do is go back one set of changes. My rig had a heart attack last night. I don't believe it was any of the changes I made that caused it but I would like to go back to right before my changes before I go to the point of doing a re-install. Any ideas anyone?
Clear-Cmos
Next time save the profile in the bios... sadly there's no undo button...
Well it looks like I might have damaged my mobo while removing the yellow TIM. Yeah I know I should have done it much sooner, however I just never had the time until now. I decided to use a razor on the NB and even though I felt I was being extremely careful it somehow slipped and caught a small resistor next to the NB. My AS thermal interface remover was not working at all so not sure what the heck this yellow stuff is, lol. Anyway, the surface mount resistor looks to be about 20% destroyed, however 80% of it seems undamaged, so not sure if it will still do its job. Here soon I should have this thing re-built and put together so fingers crossed. If this mobo no longer works due to a partially damaged resistor, should I try a RMA or should I just get a new different board? Say the G1.Sniper or Gurilla? (I want a green/black theme if at all possible) I do not like the idea of a Rampage III Gene (microATX) as my TJ07 tray was specifically cut for the RIIIE, and the full sized G1 boards seem to have the sata, usb and atx-24 in the exact same spots as my RIIIE. Not so on the MicroATX RIIIGene.
I can't remember the last time I damaged a mobo from modding, lol... Oh well :(
sometime it happens even you 200% carefull. i damaged my gcard mounting screws as i was putting back the heat sink :(
Yeah, I have damaged a cpu back in the 90's modding, and then here a few years ago I somehow killed a 4870x2 while installing the EK water block (however Asus replaced it with a 5870 so I was not too upset, lol). My new angled fittings did not work on my ek gpu block, so now I have to wait for some extenders. In the mean time I am tired of waiting to see if this mobo still works or not. I wonder if I could power it on (DRY) for enough seconds just to see if I at least get the BIOS screen, and then shut it down quick? This will help me to determine if I should try to start the RMA process. Maybe I better not push my luck, lol...Quote:
Originally Posted by xpower
Can anyone help me troubleshoot me R3E?
I have 6gb (2x3gb) Corsair dominator 2000mhz ram installed, a xeon 6 core CPU, and i want to run a revo drive and two 580GTXs in SLI...
But I keep getting this error on boot where the VGA and Boot device LEDs stay lit and obviously no post.
I have tried using a back up VGA, same problem, tried without the revo drive with just DVD drive installed, no post.
Any ideas? :(
Did you ever figure this out? I just noticed that my VGA led stayed lit as well and no post, however it had nothing to do with my VGA, apparently I did not have the first ram stick pushed in all the way, weird. After pushing the ram in further, all led's went dark except for the "boot device" led, which is Ok since I have no hdd connected yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamaxx
UPDATE: Well it looks like the chopping up of the surface mount resistor has not hurt the mobo. It still boots the bios just fine, however the NB/SB are much warmer now with ceramique than they were with the asus yellow stuff. Immediate rose to 90c when it used to be around 60-70c and on hot days would max out at 80c (its very cool here now and I have the AC on 75f in my bedroom). So now I get to take apart this system yet again (after a incredibly beautiful build) just to work on it some more. Even if its not necessary all I did for the SB was put a moderate dot of paste when I should have spread it around or used my really nice TIM pads I have. I know for fact I used way to much ceramique on the NB just because at the time I was in a hurry to see if that resistor had killed my mobo, only to realize I did not have the resources to actually test the mobo until I found the time to finish the powder coating, new loop, new blocks, fans etc etc. Wish I could find a blue print that showed the value of that resistor so I could test it to see if the damage changed its resistance value or not, lol... If that resistor is to regulate the voltage on the NB than maybe that is why its hotter now (but I doubt it). I have a feeling that the damage I witnessed is minor and possibly only surface damage in the way of only removing the surface paint. I guess I will see what happens when I apply my overclocks again, lol...
EDIT: Well I applied my 3.8 modest profile and let it sit in the bios until the IOH temp hit 81 at which point it turned red. So, I broke out one of my spot cools and pointed it directly at the NB sink and the temp then stabilized at 59-60c in the BIOS. No other fans on except for the rad fans. I guess I need to throw on a OS and see how it acts with some loads. With the ICH at only 46c Im not sure I want to tear this apart just to redo the TIM, in fact I think that's the lowest I have ever seen it. I guess the ceramique spread over the plastic just fine :)
If Asus does not do drivers or bios for Windows 8 with this plate, this one is the last time that I buy myself a RampageQuote:
Originally Posted by SOYLINDA
Asus has us forgotten, already I win with us and now we are a :banana::banana::banana::banana:.
what you talking about? you don't need any bios for run windows 8, and you can use windows 7 drivers too... and please be careful with your spanish yo entiendo todo ;) ....saludos
someone have overclock profile ? :D share it :D
Well it seems like my R3E, or my PSU has died. The motherboard lights up when connected to the PSU, and the PSU switches on, but the motherboard doesn't power on nor any of the fans connected to the board spin, but fans connected directly to the PSU work.
OCUK still had a load of Gigabyte X58a-ocs in stock, and for just ?139 so I ordered one with an XFX 850w xxx 80 plus silver PSU to diagnose. I'll keep the PSU regardless because despite the lower watts, its much better than my aging tagan and I don't even need my current PSU, just bought it because the price was good, and the Gigabyte motherboard is also a steal at that price.
Hopefully nothing else but either of those components is damaged, and I still have a few months warranty left on both.
had this problem earlier
played games all of sudden BSOD, and wont back boot to windows. ram only read 2gb out of 6gb.
tried to re arrange mem slot, but wont boot up to bios.
tried 1 stick at each time, 2 stick wont boot to bios 1 stick boot up to bios, when tried to boot to windows pass the win 7 loading screen afterward screen just went black.
not sure whether it is ram problem or bad memory slot.
cpu using iy 980x
mem: kingstone hyperx 6gb kit 2000mhz.
Wow! Seems like a good price!Quote:
Originally Posted by bhavv
By the way, it seems that the X58A-OC has a "proper" SATA3 controller like the R3BE. Which means it is a lot faster (9182) than the crappy controller on the R3E (9128). PCIe X2 vs PCIe X1 if I remember correct...not perfect but for single SSD much better. I've been running Samsung 830 single SSD with that controller without any issues, for a year now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by baronnight
Probably dead memory controller on the cpu. It happened the same to me. If the cpu is less than 3 years old, you can try a warranty subsitution directly by Intel.
Well it seems that it was my PSU that was broke not my R3E, so I sent the gigabyte board back for a refund. As nice as it would have been, its only good for a slightly higher CPU clock, and more Sata 3 bandwidth, neither of which are too important enough to want to swap my motherboard.
If I want faster Sata I could just get an add in card, but I don't.
Fired mine up today...it still works. Wonderfully water-cooled beauty of a board, she is. :)
I'm still rocking mine with 990x and GTX580 24/7 hasnt missed a beat.
Its been great on my end also. Just wish the SATA performance was better! Not maxing out my Samsung 830 bandwidth.
Hi guys, I just bought a used R3E recently. I also noticed that in the "utilities" under the Rampage III Extreme support page, there is Ai Charger available for download. Well, I downloaded this and it doesn't seem to work neither in Windows 7 X64 nor Windows 8 X64. How about U guys? AFAIK, this motherboard doesn't have Ai Charger port which has higher current output than conventional USB port, but funny thing is why is this Ai Charger driver available for download for this motherboard.
Deleted
I noticed there is a EPU6 chip on the motherboard, but it seems like there is no driver for it available for download in the support page.
Sorry I cant help you with the Ai charger thing, my devices seem to charge of normal USB just fine? I'm not sure how Ai charger is better, more current perhaps? EPU6 that's the power saving thing right? Never used it :D
The AI Charger is to increase the amperage of the USB port of the motherboard when iPod, iPad, or iPhone is pluged in. It didn't want to install in Windows 8 but after I reverted back to Windows 7 yesterday, it got installed. AQuote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
As for the EPU-6 Engine, there is no driver in the support page of this motherboard but there is this EPU 6 chip embaded on the motherboard. Even in the Ai Suite, there is no EPU-6 Engine.
This is a very good motherboard, it overclocks well, but I'm also using it as a downloading PC, meaning on and off it will be left running overnight and I find it's very usefull to have this power saving feature which can decrease the wattage required for the PC for running overnight.
EPU-6 Engine driver: http://drivers.windows9download.net/...ty-811684.html
It's for the R3BE, but it should also work w/ the regular R3E.
AI Charger works on my system, on all usb ports except the front panel headers.
If it's just downloading, add an OC profile that's actually an underclock profile.