Look here..Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
http://www.overclockersclub.com/revi.../images/92.htm
ICH PCIe Voltage shown on picture.
And i've seen this setting in BIOS - 0095, 1102, 1203..
Printable View
Look here..Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
http://www.overclockersclub.com/revi.../images/92.htm
ICH PCIe Voltage shown on picture.
And i've seen this setting in BIOS - 0095, 1102, 1203..
Yes, control for it is there, but it doesn't have a voltage readout for what the actual voltage is next to it like IOH PCIe voltage and the other voltages in the image.Quote:
Originally Posted by BSViper
THAT is what we're talking about... We know the ability to control it is there, we just can't see what the actual voltage is.
Im 100 percent sure with the 1201 bios it showed a readout next to the changeable field, I remember clearly, but since the upgrade to the 1401 bios, reading is gone, its nothing major, its just wierd.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
There is no 1201 bios for rampage 3 extreme. There's 1207. And you're wrong. 1207 does not have this readout.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanousie
I'm going to have to chime in here so Sanousie doesn't feel he's the only one who experienced this..
When I first got my R3E last year, I swear I went through the same thing as Sanousie. I thought I saw a ICH PCIE Voltage readout until I changed a setting or something and it disappeared. I even made a thread on ASUS Support Forums. I was told and convinced that there never was a readout..although I originally thought there was.
So I wouldn't dismiss what he's saying so quickly. Although my board never showed the ICH PCIE Voltage readout again, I also swear that when I first bought it and booted it up the readout WAS there.
This is my thread from last year: ICH PCIE Voltage Disappears
I have had 901, 0003 & 1301 installed and neither has had ICH PCIE shown under Voltage Monitor in the BIOS. It is also something that I do not ever recall seeing.
I am confused. From the link on the first page of this tread I downloaded from Station Drivers and installed Chipset Software Installation Utility & Chipset Device Software 9.2.3.1016 WHQL dated 4/22/2011.
All of the X58 items in Device Manager under System devices show the drivers as 9.1.1.1026 dated 2/8/2010. All of the Intel 82XXX and ICH10 drivers show up as Microsoft drivers 6.1.7601.17514 dated 6/21/2006.
Why don't the 9.2.3.1016 drivers show up anywhere?
Hi
I need some advice on what would be some good memory to put into my computer, everything is standard at this stage and would later like to have a go at overclocking.
CPU i7 970, Rampage 3 extreme, 3x4gb gail 1333, Thermaltake 875w, thermaltake level 10 gt case, thermaltake wc cooling, GTX 590
I run 12g RedLine 998691 @ 6-7-6-18 great oc'ing sticks, plays nice in the RIIIE...Here's a link to Mushkin's site...http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Redline.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by Kane1974
Some new gear :)
New storage and boot drives: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Blacks, 1 x Crucial M4 128GB - mounted in cage, anti vibration mount feet custom mounted to bay after drilling holes, fan sleeved (courtesy of MDPC of course)
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/w...smounted_1.jpg
Suspended in 5.25" drive bays
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/w...esincase_1.jpg
12GB Dominator Hypers - just testing
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/w...ne/edit1-1.jpg
very cool build mate, black or white ram heatspreaders would have topped it all off
Agreed very nice build indeed. And even better pics honestly! The dominators are looking delicious :)
The ram heatspreader fins are actually made of aluminum. So if you are feeling fancy you can have them anodized in whichever color you like ;)
P.S. I have my drives mounted in almost identical fashion in my Lian Li drive cage. My X25-M 80GB on top, then the two 1TB Hitachi in RAID0 on bottom. But my drives are oriented horizontally.
Thanks guys. Still have some things to go, have to finish sleeving the 24 pin, 8 pin EPS, and the sata power cables. I was thinking of getting 90mm fans for the rear with white blades, and getting the ram heatsinks powder coated matt or satin white (everything else is black on black with nickel+acetal blocks), but things have just got in the way since then and I've not got around to it. I just need to do those couple of things, powder coat the drive holder in the above pics black to match the rest of the case interior, and get the acrylic MurderMod top panel (or have a replica made) and I'll finally be able to call it done.
My RIIIE is quite unhappy at the moment. A bit of eraser in the socket, lots of Vaseline everywhere, and a night in the dishwasher makes a board full of problems :(
My 980x is here. Batch 3005F742
Haven't seen many reliable results about the batch. Just one guy running 27x160 for 4.3ghz on 1.35v... Hopefully this one is as good as his! I'm also hoping for another good IMC.
Yeah the F batches have been a bit variable, hope yours is a good performer :D
So far it looks good!Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
Currently doing 4.4GHz HT on with 1.45v and 32C ambient(89F). UCLK seems a *little* better than my 970, but only marginally.
My 970 needed 1.5v to hit 4.4, and I never did it with an ambient this high.
Core Temps are topping out at 91C with coolant temp of 39C.
Quick question:
Has anyone heard about this board having intermittent warning beeps for no apparent reason by chance? I know there are a few videos of it on youtube, but they seem to be different than my annoying beeps. My board will beep at extremely odd times and for no apparent reason what so ever. I can have it freezing cold in here or a hot summer day, gaming or logged off, but every now and then say 2 to 3 times a week for about 5 to 20 minutes or so it will begin this loud beeping. 1 second on 1 second off and the duration of beeps changes from say 3 beeps to as much as 14 beeps, then goes away for a few minutes and then starts all over again. Finally it stops and goes away for either a week or two or for just a few hours or a few days. EXTREMELY intermittent... Immediately checking all temps and voltages show spot on perfect exactly where youd want them for a non overclocked system. Also, can someone tell me where the damn little speaker is so I can rip it off the next time it interrupts one of my movies again please?
Thanks
SkOrPn
Well the R3E does not have a buzzer/speaker built in, so all you have to do is disconnect the 'SPEAKER' cable that comes from your case which you have plugged into your motherboard (bottom right-hand corner).
As for the beeping, I'm not sure as I have never heard of it or experienced it myself. Have you tried a different PSU? Perhaps it's a built in alarm for when there is not enough power being supplied by the PSU.
@SkOrPn:
Could it be some monitoring program running for hours/days and going berserk?
Nevermind my noobish ass, yeah I searched long and hard for a buzzer on this thing thinking it was more like the kind you find in an alarm watch or smartphone (Hiding underneath the heatsink perhaps) to no avail but then last night i looked at good images of this board without the heatsinks on and well I still did not see any buzzer of any kind. So, since my TJ07 is turned to its side and the front of the case is facing a corner wall I could not see my fan controller was the culprit and apparently one of my four fan zones is dropping below 300 rpm every now and then and the controller most definitely has a buzzer to warn me. LOL, my bad, Im so lazy that it took me months (maybe a year now this has been going off) to even break down and investigate it. Thankfully turning the dial on that fan lets me select the off mode. Also I have spare fans brand new always waiting for just such an event so all is well.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
Thanks
Read above, lol...Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarkoni
Hey donmarkoni, I been meaning to ask you. Can I use your bios template on page 3 as a good starting point to quickly find a happy OC and stable voltages? Just curious as its really close to what Im looking for which is somewhere between 3.5 to 4.0 and bclk no higher than 200. Not sure what my memory is capable of but not really interested in overclocking it. After my production mobo died this rig became my production rig and houses everything with my business, so cant use settings that has any chance of prematurely killing something. Also, this motherboard runs hot even at idle IOH and ICH are in the lower to mid 60's, so I am finally going to fire up my netbook and try to use it for my biz while I remove the RIIIE and redo my loop and clean up the tim on the stock asus heatsink. I have AS5 and Ceramique in high abundance here so will redo the tim, that is if the baked on stuff will even let go, lol. I also want to lower the 5870 down to the bottom x16 slot to try and get it away from the Intel chip. Ive noticed when gaming that my temps on the board sky rocket even tho the 5870 has rear exhausting duct. So I got a MCW82 sitting here in the box never used, so Im going to finally install that and keep the asus memory sink on and hope the extra memory heat does not effect the chipset so drasticly. Lowering it to the bottom x16 slot should help Im thinking.
Anyway, I have never found the time to play with this board as I worked 14 hours a day for the last 6 years, but now Im unemployed and want to safely play around with it, lol... I have a early model i7-930 DO that I purchased just days after it became avail so I assume I can safely use settings originally meant for the i7-920? Thanks for any ideas you may be willing to share.
SkOrPn
Yes, of course. :up: But maybe you should use some later template, like this one. Post your BIOS template when you start, so we can comment it together.
About IOH/ICH temps, you do the TIM change, but if you didn't use fans before, maybe that was causing high temps.
I hope that 930 to be good as it is early model.
Hello,
R3E at home, I wanted to know what bios is best? then it is possible to downgrade a bios? if so what version is it afudos, thank you
Ok cool, I will use those as a beginning point. This cpu ran at 4.5 before without issues but I had problems with something else and was forced to go back to stock settings, and just never found the time to come back, lol... Yes I never did install the fan/heatsink asus supplied with the mobo, so Im thinking of doing so finally also. Being a truck driver, I never did find time to mess around, but having a case such as the tj07, I really wanted to populate it with something that looked good, and at the time, to my eyes anyway, it was the RIIIE.Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarkoni
Hey, I'm a customs agent (everything connected to customs clearing and stuff), so I know long work hours, we are in same :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:, I mean business. :D
4.5GHz? It's a good one. :up:
:toast:
EDIT: This new forum version is smart, I used "!" insted of "i", but it recognized :banana::banana::banana::banana: from a mile. :rofl:
Ok, donmarkoni, I tried the template you suggested and it did not post, never even came back on. So I tried the below template from page 3 and it also did not post, did not even power back on. So, I downloaded bios 1401 (was on 1208) flashed it and retried, and the same thing. So, I looked around and realized that I had set my multi to 20 and left BCLK at 200. Set multi to 21 and still didnt post, so then I realized QPI Loadline Calibration was still disabled via the jumper, so I decided I did not have any interest needing to use a jumper, so I looked at a few guides on i7-920 overclocking and decided to use the CPU Level up feature just to get me some ideas on reference voltages/settings etc. After setting voltages manually (and anything else in your template), it then booted just fine and I have ran Prime95 for an hour before the CPU warning went off. I stopped prime just because the warning from PC Probe kept going off. I installed probe before running any overclocks, and it was complaining of all kinds of things, mostly voltages. It would say that cpu voltage has droped to 0.00 or that cpu pll has droped to 0.02 or that dram bus voltage has droped to 0.23 (also claims IOH pcie volts has dropped to 0.23v, lol, seems fishy to me) or that dpi volts has dropped to 0.03 and many more similar warnings but the system kept running just fine. Constantly going off for about 5 seconds and then returning to normal and repeating itself a few minutes later or so. This happens with or without overclocking, on both bios 1208 and 1401, so I can only assume PC Probe is crap (or my windows install is borked) and I need to uninstall it, lol... CPU Temp hit 70c so I halted Prime95 and it then recovered to 44c... and yes I know 70c is still safe but I need this cpu to last a very long time. (by the way, I am preparing to replace my cpu hold down as one of the 4 swiftech screws is stripped, so it may not be getting full pressure from the block)
I'm am perfectly Ok with a mediocre overclock of 3.5ghz but not Ok with all the warnings. Do you see anything in my template below that I need to change asap? Everything in bolded parenthesis below is my actual current setting and the only thing that differs from your template on page 3. Thank you for any guidance you may be willing to share with this OC noob. lol
Also, for reference my memory is the cheap Dominator TR3X6G1600C8D 6gb kit. Oh and one last thing, if anything in my current settings scream out how noob I really am at this please forgive me, I already know this as a overclocker friend of mine rubs it in all the time, lol...
Code:(CPU Level UP to i7-965 for reference settings)
Target CPU Frequency 4000MHz (3570)
Target DRAM Frequency 1603MHz (1704)
LN2 Mode: [Disabled]
QPI Loadline Calibration: [Disabled]
Sync Mode [Enabled]
AI Overclock Tuner [Manual]
OC From CPU level Up [Auto] (i7-965)
2D Performance Booster [Disabled]
CPU Ratio Setting [21.0]
CPU Turbo Power Limit [Disabled]
>CPU Configuration----------------------------
CPU Ratio Setting [21.0]
C1E Support [Enabled]
Hardware Prefetcher [Enabled]
AdjacentCacheLinePrefetcher [Enabled]
MPS and ACPI MADT ordering [Modern]
Intel(R) Virtualization Tech [Enabled]
CPU TM Function [Disabled]
Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]
Intel(R) HT Technology [Enabled]
Active Processor Cores [All]
A20M [Disabled]
Intel(R) SpeedStep(TM) Tech [Enabled]
Performance/Watt select [Power]
Intel(R) C-STATE Tech [Enabled]
C State package limit setting [Auto]
C1 Auto Demotion [Enabled]
C3 Auto Demotion [Enabled]
----------------------------------------------
BCLK Frequency [200] (170)
PCIE Frequency [105]
DRAM Frequency [1603] (1704)
UCLK Frequency [4009] (3408)
QPI Link Data Rate [7218] (6135)
Memory Recheck [Disabled]
MemoryConfigurationProtect [Disabled]
>DRAM Timing Control----EVERYTHING BELOW ON AUTO
CAS# Latency 6 [6] (AUTO)
RAS# to CAS# Delay 7 [7] (AUTO)
RAS# PRE Time 6 [6] (AUTO)
RAS# ACT Time 18 [18] (AUTO)
RAS# to RAS# Delay 4 [4] (AUTO)
REF Cycle Time 72 [72] (AUTO)
WRITE Recovery Time 10 [10] (AUTO)
READ to PRE Time 6 [6] (AUTO)
FOUR ACT WIN Time 24 [Auto] (AUTO)
Back-To-BackCAS# Delay 0 [Auto] (AUTO)
Timing Mode 1N [1N] (AUTO)
Round Trip LatencyonCHA 59 [59] (AUTO)
Round Trip LatencyonCHB 61 [60] (AUTO)
Round Trip LatencyonCHC 62 [61] (AUTO)
WRITEToREAD Delay(DD) 8 [Auto]
WRITEToREAD Delay(DR) 8 [Auto]
WRITEToREAD Delay(SR) 18 [Auto]
READToWRITE Delay(DD) 7 [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(DR) 7 [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(SR) 7 [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(DD) 7 [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(DR) 6 [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(SR) 4 [Auto]
WRITEToWRITE Delay(DD) 7 [Auto]
WRITEToWRITE Delay(DR) 7 [Auto]
WRITEToWRITE Delay(SR) 4 [Auto]
----------------------------------------------
CPU Differential Amplitude [Auto]
CPU Clock Skew [Auto]
IOH Clock Skew [Auto]
------------ Extreme Engine Digi+ ------------
Digi+ PWR Mode [T-Balanced]
PWR Volt. Control [Auto]
Load-Line Calibration [Full]
CPU Voltege OCP [Enabled]
CPU PWM Frequency [Auto]
Extreme OV [Enabled]
Extreme OC [Auto]
CPU Voltage 1.343 [1.33750] (1.25)
CPU PLL Voltage 1.349 [1.35150] (1.81)
QPI/DRAM Core V 1.429 [1.43750] (1.35)
DRAM Bus Voltage 1.654 [Auto] (1.51)
>DRAM REF Voltages----------------------------
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA [Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB [Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC [Auto]
----------------------------------------------
IOH Voltage 1.111 [Auto] (1.11)
IOH PCIE Voltage 1.508 [Auto] (1.51)
ICH Voltage 1.111 [Auto] (1.11)
ICH PCIE Voltage [Auto] (1.51)
*QPI Voltage OCP [Enabled]
*IOH Voltage OCP [Enabled]
*DRAM Voltage OCP [Enabled]
*QPI PWM Frequency [Auto]
*IOH PWM Frequency [Auto]
*DRAM PWM Frequency [Auto]
---------- Spread Spectrum Control -----------
CPU Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
DRAM Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
It's common knowledge that Asus cannot make software. PC Probe is a crappy buggy essentially useless piece of junk. Temp warnings of CPU at 200*C, vcore at 50v, vdimm at 0.00v etc are common place. Uninstall it. Forget about it.
If you want to monitor voltages etc, AIDA64 (or cpuz for vcore) is popular and it actually works.
Go from there and see how you go.
Thanks CryptiK, for that information about AIDA64, I will give that a try. However, I uninstalled that POS PC Probe just minutes after I posted yesterday, lol. I could not handle all the BS warnings, telling me my CPU has dropped to 0.02v, when I have it manually set LOL... Will AIDA64 show me voltages of components such as DRAM, ICH, IOH PCI-E, QPI and etc? The only monitoring apps Im using currently are Tweaker, GPU-Z, CPU-Z and I tried Speedfan, but none of them show me mobo components like ICH, IOH, QPI etc. Will hunt down my copy of Everest and see if that will show me what I want to see, lol....Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
Thanks
@SkOrPn:
Why don't you try dropping RAM multi to 8x and UnCore to 16x and try raising BCLK? Maybe your memory is limiting factor, if it stays at 8-8-8-X while overclocking.
It's not that the CPU drops to 0.02v when you have it set manually to whatever you set it to - its that if this occurred the CPU would not be able to function and the OS would lock or crash. It's not possible for it to run at 0.02v even for a moment. Ass probe is just bad software period.
As Don suggested, try dropping the ram and uncore multi's and take them out of the equation, use the 21 multi and at least get 3.8-4GHz stable. 70*C is nothing for an i7, they go way over that on the stock coolers and hardly ever see that kind of simulated load in real world use. Once you have the core stable, bring the rest up and optimize.
Hello folks, im new here and I just kinda browsed around a bit. I do have this board and I had 4.2 stable on my i7 950 for a bit but it tends to spike and crap out on occasion D: here is my CPU-Z Validation http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1912382
To answer your question, yes AIDA64 will show you all these voltages plus more i.e. PSU, GPU. It also comes with a neat Windows Sidebar Gadget which displays all the information you want like core clock, multi, memory speed and timings, temps, volts, fan speeds, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
And I'm sure you know Everest was taken over by AIDA64. So no more Everest, but if you have a valid Everest key it can be used with AIDA64 :)
Yes, I discovered this this morning and it blew my mind about Everest/AIDA64. Using AIDA64 now, so thanks. BUT, hmm, I didnt know about the gadget lol....Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
I have Aida64 and I have seen a reference to this sidebar gadget, I have looked for it and could not find it. How do you activate the sidebar gadget? My version of Aida64 is 1.70.XXX something.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
Aida on the G19 is excellent , it's my favorite monitoring software .
Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Noooo.... Please people, don't use those stupid things, called Windows Gadget and Sidebar. :down: Just use On Screen Display from AIDA64. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by idahosurge
One of the first things I remove from my Win7 installation are Gadget Platform and Sidebar. They are stupid and take memory and CPU cycles.
Im using AIDA64 SensorPanel myself, its built in and recommended by AIDA64 support. Only needs to be enabled via Preferences, and then you can customize it to your hearts content, which I've already done.Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarkoni
Wow I feel like an idiot thanks a lot for pointing that out. I agree I do not like using Windows Sidebar either as I also find to be memory and resource heavy. The only reason why I was using it (in screenshots only, not 24/7) was because I saw you "using" it in your screenshots. I had NO idea it was the OSD feature :yawn:Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarkoni
Glad you were already on the right track SkOrPn :up:
I like the sidebar gadgets. They do seem to use between 50 and 60MB of ram, so I shut the sidebar off when I bench/stability test.
Other than bench/stressing though, I see no reason to keep them off. I like being able to monitor my thread load as well as network and disk...
Have you guys noticed the new EK-FB RE3 Acetal blocks with pure copper base? Acetal and acrylic versions. Why so late with these versions I have no clue. I'd get the Acetal copper :)
And they have new 'EN' (Electroless Nickel Plating) versions of all their blocks. Basically very high quality nickel plating to be resistant to all sorts of coolants and additives. RMA for 'old' nickel blocks now unlimited also.
I saw EK has released specific EK-FB RE3 Black MB blocks. Most probably knows this but just in case.
Hmm I have an 'old' nickel and acetal EK block, but no issues with it so far. I just run distilled and a few ppm CuSO4 though, no other additives or dyes. Would hate to have to pull down my loop and RMA too.
What are the situations in which old nickel blocks exhibit issues?
I also have an old nicke/acetal ek block and am wondering what causes the issues. I'm running distilled with some PC-ICE for anti corrosive. I've never opened mine up to see if it's damaged at all... I guess now I have to... Really annoying since EK blocks are such a PITA to attach. Stupid little plastic washer standoffs.Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
Whats the problem with the blocks? I also have the old one and not seen an problems with it!
I think people who are running serious additives i.e. Colored UV coolants + anti-corrosive agents are having these issues. Like here. So if you run pure distilled + silver killcoil like me and many others, you should be fine.
That was my first thought also, that the people with Acetal blocks will have no clue IF there was any corrosion unless the took the blocks off and apart, which is the biggest PITA. I have the acrylic ones and they seem fine. I think there may be buildup in the RAM block but I do not believe that is corrosion, maybe that stuff that comes off the hoses accumulated there..
Ah ok, hope mine is ok. I have acetal block and black tubing so the only way I have of monitoring water quality is the res. However if there's surface corrosion going on in the block I probably wont see it. I am using pure distilled laboritory grade water (resistivity >18MOhms, conductivity <2us/cm, 0.5 micron filtered) so unless the CuSO4 causes issues I should be good.
Okay guys ... been absent from here for awhile due to many things going on up in Alaska ... summers are short but plenty of daylight!! :p: I just recently added a second Crucial C300 64GB SSD to my setup and moved both of them over to the Marvell controller/Drive Xpert Config. Using the RAID 0 function, I was able to get both of them working in the Drive Xpert Configuration, but now, it's crashing quite often, with the newer drive always dropping off the array. Only a power off/reboot causes the drive to come back. And it seemed to most often crash during a windows update. At first, I thought it might be my win install, but uninstalled it and tried again. Same thing ... :mad: So the question is this ... could the fact that one of my C300 SSDs has a different firmware revision be the culprit? One is 0002 and the newer one is 0006. Could the two not be playing together nice? Or is it just this crappy Marvell 91xx controller? I have already RMAed this board because I was having problems with the controller dropping drives. If this is the case, I am gonna scream!!! :eek:
AK
The controller is a problem.
I'm having the same crashes with vertex 3.
The only way to fix this is to wait till get's up again and going or just REBOOT.
I'm buying now RevoDrive X2 220GB cuz this is the only thing that will work at high speed. Every sata3 SSD will be screwed. Better get G1. or R3EBE mobo if you want to use the sata3 controller in full potential
Rev 7 is now available for the C300, I have just upgraded all 3 of mine and the procedure was fairly straight forward and easy to do, all drives had data on them, no harm done and working well.
As for the Marvell, forget you even have it ! run them on the ICH10R.
Those of us who stepped up from RE2 to RE3 thinking we would get Sata 3 6gb/s were ripped off, it does not work.
Okay ... now since I last posted about an hour and half ago, I decided to see if maybe it was the way the drives were set up in the BIOS of the Marvell controller (Ver. 1.0.0. 1019) as opposed to just using the Drive Xpert Configuration ( I know ... I know... :( ) I had successfully gotten through a full custom install using my USB stick and then I further went through my custom setup of Win7. Went to windows updates and downloaded them and went to restart and now I have a BSOD about a failed boot mount. WHAT THE F***!!?? Even Win7 repair can't fix this ... sheesh! I give up on this Marvell controller ... I just hate to have to pull one of my RAID arrays off the Intel to try to run these two C300 in a RAID 0 config. I suppose I should just get a 128GB SSD and use that for my OS and just scrap using that damn Marvell controller all together ... :mad:
EDIT: Just tried restarting this pig and the OS came back like as if nothing was wrong ... gotta be some gremlins in my shop ...
This may or may not help. Try updating your R3E BIOS to 1301 that includes updated Marvell 9128 controller Rom/Firmware (Bios: 1.0.0.1029 - F/W: 2.2.0.1113)
See the post by p4spooky on 4/30 @ 8:06 PM for a download link for the modified 1301 R3E BIOS.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...Support/page18
If you have not already you can also try updating your Marvell drivers to 1.2.0.1003.
http://www.station-drivers.com/page/marvell.htm
Many thanks ... I'll give the modified BIOS (1301) a shot later. I'm through messing around today :up:
Just as an update, I'm still running the Mr.Toad modified BIOS for the R3 Gene and running strong after the last few months of heavy usage. Looks like Asus still isn't interested in updating their BIOS how it really needs to be fixed though :(
Played with my 980x a bit this weekend. Looks like I was wrong about the IMC. It will only do 3.4GHz vs the 3.6GHz of my 970.
The change in GFlops is minor.
The core of the chip is pretty good. It's the first chip I've owned that can do 4.5GHz with HT on, and the first chip I feel comfortable with the temps to run it at 4.3GHz 24/7.
4.33GHz, new 24/7 clock:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...-83gflp-ht.jpg
4.5GHz HT on:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...86GFlop-HT.png
4.5GHz HT off:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...6-968GFlop.jpg
You can see I did 4.5GHz with UCLK at 3.2GHz. I got 96.8GFlops with this 980x with 3.2GHz UCLK, and got 97GFlops with my 970 at 3.6GHZ UCLK. The difference is very minor.
Zoson, mate, that chip is just bad. :(
Can you sell it and find another?
Yeah, the IMC is a bit weak. But the core is still better than any other chip I've owned... :(Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarkoni
My best 970 does 4.5ghz HT off at 1.525v BIOS... This 980x does 4.5ghz HT off with 1.4875v BIOS... With my 970 I was VERY close to getting a stable 4740 run... I'll probably be able to do that with this 980x, I just haven't had the time yet...
I was hoping for better, so I'll do a 4.6GHz+ run on the 980x, post it to the 4.5GHz club, then try to sell it and get another.
Edit:
Also forgot to mention that the 4.33GHz linx was done with my AC off and a room temp of 31C. So it really can do 4.33GHz 24/7 without worrying about overheating. I did the 4.5GHz runs with my AC on, which was able to keep my room temp between 24C and 25C. On a cool night it can bring my room temp down to 19C, and that's when I shoot for the big clocks.
Edit2:
Maybe I'm the only one with a working Marvell controller... I'm using two Intel X25-M G2's in Raid0 on it with no issues at all... Still running whatever driver windows installed from the get go.
so i can consider my 980x a "good" one.... 4.5ghz ht on with 1.43v ??
I have not seen any linx resutls for your 980x... Just for your old 970... If you can do 20 LinX stable at 4.5GHz HT on with only 1.43v... Yeah that's a nice CPU. You should clock it and submit an entry to 4.5GHz+ club!Quote:
Originally Posted by p3gaz_001
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...nX-Stable-Club
Very few chips are that good though, and you may need more than 1.43v at 4.5GHz to get 20LinX stable.
On another note, even with 32C ambient and 45C coolant, my 980x can run at 4.4GHz HT on stable. Max core temp gets up to 97C in LinX, but still below 101C Tj Max. Never goes above 80C for regular computing. So now I'm running 29x152(comes out 29*152.5 in windows for 4422MHz) with 1.475v BIOS. This is also with all 18GB of my memory in, running at 1830MHz CAS 8-9-8-24-110-1T on 3.2GHz UCLK.
well i'd like to run linx, but since i've changed to this 980x, linx wount work.... it stay there thinking thinking an thinking, cpu usage never goes more than 1% ... don't know what's wrong with it.......Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Seems pretty decent but without being able to stress it with LINX, it's hard to say its stable. Prime95 is about as good a test as you can get which I prefer for long runs in addition to LINX testing, so does it pass a few hours of that? Tried re-downloading and using new copy of LINX?
Quote:
Originally Posted by p3gaz_001
Get the latest linx 0.6.4 engine and then download the latest linpack binary:
http://software.intel.com/en-us/arti...pack-download/
Replace, and retry.
You can't say it's stable without LinX... My 980x will do 4.5 HT on with 1.43v, and *seem* stable, but it's not really. It's very temperature related... For example it'll run fine for 3 days, then ambient will increase from 25C to 32C and it'll crash.
i'll try out.
---
btw .... i've noticed something wrong since i had 2 580 with the same vid. i remembere that i was able to close benchs at 200.x23 with 1.50 .... now is not more enough, is that normal?
i've changed about 5 580.... and this is the first time that i have two card with the same vid... it seem's like cpu doensn't like gpu with the same vid...... what to check? pci-e bumped to 103, ioh voltege bumped to 1.19 ... what else?
@p3gaz_001
Tried more vIOH? ~1.25-1.3V?
sincerely no, i'd read about 1.16v to get stability, i'd pushed to 1.19v and i was thinking that it was to high... then if you are telling me that i can go to 1.25/1.30 i'll do it right now..... thanks as always for the support.
We recently discovered that vIOH is also QPI PLL... Different chips will like different vIOH because of it. Up to 1.35v should be no problem, and I doubt anything higher will help at all, anyway.
this is a great info, but it sound to me a little bit strange, how can vIOH be QPI PLL?? did a read right? btw... this night i'd tried some combos .... from 1.19v IOH to 1.35 it seems to be no differences ... but i'm leaving it at 1.30. and .... by switching off lane 3 and removing power connector to the second 580, 200x23 rolls back to 1.50v , 2 580 200x23 is now 1.518... but, i'd even noticed that, if i try straight 200x23 1.50v when the room temp and liquid temp is low i can succesfully close any bench .. i take for esample the vantage cpu test, once i've finish the test, and i try it to run again it fails, so i'd think that ... this hot days, aren't good for the cooling sys..... and i have to rice up vcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Yes, it is very strange... Raja confirmed for us though. the vDC requirements for ioh and qpi pll are the same, so ASUS just tied them together... It's stupid...Quote:
Originally Posted by p3gaz_001
I'm not sure why your GTX580 does that... Maybe it's bad? Did you try that one by itself? Do you have the EZ_PLUGs connected? For GTX580 SLI you should have at least one EZ_PLUG attached.
well ..... !!!! if raja confirmed that .... we should trust him, so according to that... moving vIOH or QPI PLL , should have the same effect? ....Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
-----
my 580's aren't bad... they both work great .... and i've also connected both of EZ_PLugs ........ :|
There's no option to change QPI PLL voltage separately so basically bumping vIOH you also automatically bumping QPI PLL.Quote:
Originally Posted by p3gaz_001
ok that was the point.... but what i'm triying to understand is.... should i bump only vIOH to get QPI stability o i must bump the both? i'm sorry i had to ask, but ..... this is some how a shoking news.... don't wan't to rma my cpu or mainboard by failing bumping voltages ...Quote:
Originally Posted by McDown
Quote:
Originally Posted by McDown
You cannot increase only vIOH. That's what he's saying. Increasing vIOH automatically increased QPI PLL voltage.. so no choice of increasing only vIOH or both vIOH and QPI PLL. Always both vIOH and QPI PLL increase together.Quote:
Originally Posted by p3gaz_001
I have a question not realty sure here just thinking, don't want to screw things up.
My R3E board failed last week and I received the replacement board today. I plan on doing the rebuild over the weekend.
Since It took me a while to get all the settings in the bios perfect for my 4.0ghz I-7 930 on air I wondering if I could use the bios chips from the defective board (as long as they are not dead too) and pop them in the replacement board because I don’t remember all the previous bios settings. Plus I don’t want to spend all the time in priming etc. is this doable? Thanks in advance for replies.
Hmm, good question, I dont see why not. Are you sure your board did not die because of overly aggresive settings by chance? Also, I would think a new board also means completely new chips, which means completely different results on your settings. What may have been stable on your board does not mean it will be stable on mine and vice-versa. BUT, with that said, YES, your old bios chips will work just fine. I have a chip puller just for that reason alone. lol....Quote:
Originally Posted by dionysus
thx Sk0rpn Thats what i thought, I also image the setting working on the previous MIGHT not work with the replacement board, however it might be a good starting point and I could work from there.
Yup agreed. Im surprised they didnt ask for the old board, or did they? You just going to swap out the chips? Do both chips have the same settings on them?Quote:
Originally Posted by dionysus
If so, you should be able to just boot up, with minimal complaining from your OS, and immediately start some stress testing on your old settings. Anyway, good luck with that. Im curious if it works myself, lol....
Well....remember the ROG boards have an advance replacement policy :) so I have the replacement board, and the one that essentially won't boot.
Yeah I hope it's as easy as swapping out the 2 bios chips which is why I'm reaching out to the forum here for help thanks again.
Intel Xeon Q3QS @ 2.533GHz
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/797...32025mhzcl.jpg
CPU-Z Validation
:D
I've a problem, I' ve bought a EK-FB RE3, but i don't know what' s the inlet and outlet of EK-FB RE3, someone can help me?
Inlet would be the center hole I would think, but don't quote me on this. Just seems to me the coolest fluid should hit the chipset first, and then move on outward towards the mosfet's. No?Quote:
Originally Posted by deviljin86
Quote:
Originally Posted by deviljin86
I use the mosfet hole as inlet and the hole over the nb as outlet. It's just easier to go from cpu -> mosfet and then out the NB than anything else.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Bottom line is the fluid temp difference is going to be insignificant if you have a radiator sized properly for your heat load.
Do whatever is most convenient for plumbing your loop.
See:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...h_2e6b80b7.jpg
thx 4 help, I think to follow the zoson' s loop:) because is more simply for my components
Yes I most defo agree with zoson's loop recommendation as well... good luck with it and nice block.... By the way, how is the stock mobo sink attached to the board? Screws from the rear or what?Quote:
Originally Posted by deviljin86
8 screws. 6 from back, 2 from front(mosfet). It is very secure.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Yeah I ALMOST pulled it yesterday to redo the tim, but then noticed it looked very very secure and since I knew that would be a time consuming event decided not to do it quite yet. Was going to install my mcw82, but found out that the block is solid with the rest of the heat spreader and well that pissed me off, so now I need to also get a HD5870-HS I think it is... Then I will redo my boards tim.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
I have cold water from rad coming from the bottom of my case, so I go rad to middle hole on block, shorter tubing run that way and as said coolant temps vary very little with component order if rad/fans and flow rate are sufficient.
Hi Everyone! I am new to this forum and am not sure where to post the following request for help. It relates to a Rampage III Formula, so very similar to the Extreme and I expect the issue I am having is not related to any differences. My problem relates to the fact that the performance of SSD drives in RAID0 on the Maxell SATA3 controller is SLOWER than the performance of the same drives in RAID0 on the integrated Intel controller. I have used both the latest version of Crystal Mark and HDTach. I have two OCZ SATA3 Solid 60gb drives and two OCZ Vertex3 120gb drives. The performance of these drives in RAID0 on the maxell controller is actually slower than when the drives are run a single drives on the Maxell controller. I have tried both 32k and 64k strupe size. I have refreshed the drives to factory new. I am definately using SATA3 compliant cables and the correct ports. I have the SATA3 controller set to AHCI. All other settings are factory defaults.
A second issue: when I set the drives to run on in RAID 0 on the intel controller (SATA2), the perform at the expected level in all benchmarks. However, Crysis crashes (gets a directX error) within 5 minutes of playing. I am running Windows 7 64-bit with all patches, and I create a clone of a working install for ever test (using Acronis). My results are perfectly reliable. Also note that crysis is rock solid reliable on all drive configurations except raid 0 on the intel controller (which gets far better performance than the same aray put on the Maxell controller). I have wiped and rebuilt the aray many times.
Please be advised, the drives are definately NOT locked into low performance mode. Also, the controllers are all working. When I connect the Vertex3 to the SATA3 and run it as a lone drive, all benchmarks are right where they should be. But, adding a second drive and creating a RAID0 stripe causes the drive to actually slow down instead is speed up (when on the Maxell controller) Again, on the intel controller, the drives perform faster and hit the benchmarks one expect ...but then crysis crashes every 5 minutes.
I have tried everything I can think of and have tested this system with 3 different sets of drives - always the same results. So, here are my questions:
1. Why does the maxell controller cause the drives to slow down when in raid 0?
2. Why does Crysis run reliably in all drive configurations including raid 0 on the maxell controller but then crash (directX not responding) when the exact same drives and OS install are connected to the Intel controller?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have spend over 20 hours working on this and it is driving me crazy. The system seems reliable other than this and all hard drives and the motherboard have been flashed to the most recent bios - I also reverted to older bios to see if this helped. Same problem.
THANKS!
Kirk
Kirk, first off, its not a Maxell controller, its a Marvell 9128 PCIe SATA III controller.
1. Long Version. This has been beating with a stick over and over all over the world. The Marvell controller was the first prototype for SATA III and did not perform like it should because quite simply it was the first of its kind. The Intel chipset was the last of SATA II and bound to be near flawless for SATA II specs, and furthermore ICH sata II has had a half decade to mature to its current state. There is no magical way to make the very first sata III chip perform as you see fit, it performs exactly how it was expected to perform, as an entry level offering, just barely breaking ground with a new technology... The short version of my reply to this is, if you want great performance from your SATA III drives, you MUST use a enterprise level controller from either LSI or Areca, both of which provide great SATA III controllers.
2. Crysis? If that is the case, just take a 60gb Solid as a single drive, install it on the Marvell if you must use it and install your game there. I have 2 Crucial C300's on the Intel in Raid0 and Crysis runs flawlessly for me. (EDIT: Actually I just remembered that it has never run for me after upgrading to v1.9 patch and I have not invested any time to look into why)
In short, do not waste your time trying to make a entry level controller work like you "thought" it should, you will fail. I look at those 2 extra red ports as just that "extra ports" if I even should need a spare sata connection, other wise my Marvell controller is always disabled, its crap and there's no way to make that crap smell better. Yeah sure you can update the drivers, and maybe even the firmware, but it will always be crap compared to ICH10R imo...
Hi Skorpn and thanks for the speedy reply. I had the Rampage II Extreme and paid an extra $200 to upgrade to the Rampage III just so I would have SATA3 ...I am going to puke now. Okay, so forgetting about the Marvell controller (it will always be Maxell to me), why might Crysis crash so consistently on my Intel controller when in Raid 0? Keep in mind that I have tried it with two different sets of drives (OCZ SOlid x 2 and OCZ Vertex3 x2), and I have tried several different stripe sizes. The system seems otherwise stable. It is not a BSOD but just tells me that DirectX has crashed. On the very same install cloned to one of the drives but NOT in raid 0, it never crashes. Any ideas?
I am still fuming about throwing $200 away for two ports I wont even be using.
THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP!
Kirk
Kirk,
Someone posted a custom bios here that has the latest intel matrix raid firmware in it. Give it a shot. Many with issues like yours have had good results. Sorry, I don't have the link handy, but I'm sure you can find it in the official asus bios thread.
I am in the EXACT same boat as you, plus I wanted this board for its looks and I just happened to have a few grand extra to blow on the day I was looking for a replacement for my Maximus Formula. I think the SATA III and USB 3.0 claims was one of the top reasons I got this board, but don't forget they were the first ones available, and ultimately "WE" the early adopters are the ones who suffer trying stuff first. Patience is necessary when jumping onto new tech, especially tech that promises great advances. I somehow knew that it was going to be crap so I have never really bothered with it. I was more interested in what USB 3.0 has to offer, but then again the products to use it wasn't there either at first. I finally got myself a USB 3.0 enclosure and just shoved a OCZ SSD into it, and got well over 100mb/s transfer on my USB 3 port, but it took a while and a few firmware releases and drivers to get there. But Im afraid the Marvell controller, although has improved some, is just not going to give us what we want. For something affordable we have to wait for descent Intel ICH controllers to hit.Quote:
Originally Posted by kkelln
For your Crysis problem I must admit I have no clue as to why that would be happening, you have the same board as I do and the same game, so the only differing factors could be video cards, and/or SSD/s. Did you upgrade to the latest 1.9 version of Crysis? I did and I had nothing but crashes ever since, and I have not even tried yet since rebuilding my OS last weekend. I would install it again, but I think Im done with that game tbh... not sure yet....
As zoson said, maybe give that modded bios a try, not sure if its 1301 or 1401 but it has the latest ICH firmware built in. Also make sure your using 10.6 or newer rapid storage drivers. Also, Kirk could you update your signature with a little info on your current setup please, so we can see what your working with?
If memory serves me, it's 1301... 1401 just added the i7 980 non x chip microcode, so it's no biggie.
Anandtech reported on this bug today:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4604/t...sds-compared/2
I just got my Rampage III extreme to replace my so unworthy UD9 :yepp:
Just waiting for some water cooling stuff and I'll be installing it soon :)
Wow, I think you must be the most patient man ever. Someone hand this man a medal! :D
Nahh not really, I just had enough of the UD9, was in the market last night and came across a newly established store which offered me some really good pricece on the RIIIE and some Aerocool 140mm and 1200 shark fans which I couldn't reset !!
And I ordered some black tubes, EK waterblock "the only one I could find to cool the RIIIE" and some red Anti Kink Coils !!!
Probably early next year I'll dump the last Gigabyte device I'll ever use which are 3 GTX480!
NO MORE GIGABYTE FOR ME !!!
hey guys, i just got a DDR3-2133Gskill RipjawsX to play with..
i've tried to go with 2133mhz with 4266uncore..i've managed to get it bootable up too 1.6525v of cpu/vtt which i think is quite high, and btw, my board is fully watercooled..
but, with that cpu/vtt, it seems not stable because getting i'm getting bsod whenever p95 starts..i've plan to go beyond that cpu/vtt but in bios, the reading will be highlighted in red when it is above 1.6525v..
my question is, can i push further regardless of that warning..??..i've seen reviews on this forum that goes up too 1.8x cpu/vtt to reach 2xxx dram freq...
I would go for lower ram speeds with tighter timings and appropriate ram setting tweaking (auto RTL can kill some speed )...
4266 is VERY high uncore. Most CPUs have trouble hitting 4000 uncore! 1.65v is way too high. You're already risking CPU damage beyond 1.45v.Quote:
Originally Posted by kaka_89
2133MHz ram is mainly designed for Gulftown, Lynnfield, and SandyBridge. They only require 1.5x uncore, not 2x like Bloomfield.
Exactly. See if you can hit 4000MHz uncore with 1.45v qpi/vtt. Then run your memory at 2000MHz with tight timings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
I've run the R3E for something like six months now but now I've began to experience a strange issue. When booting up the system, sometimes the board won't go further from POST. It hangs on "Initialising USB controllers...done". And nothing after that. If I press F8, it tries to to go BIOS, but it won't. CTRL-ALT-DEL sometimes lets me boot up or if not reset usually helps. So it's not completely crashed since it recognises some keys, seems it just can't go on for some reason. This began just two days ago, of course while I'm on my holiday and willing to game, FFS... :(
I googled and I saw several other users having this issue, someone said it's a bad south bridge or a bad integrated sound card since disabling onboard sound helped for some. I don't have another sound card in the system so I'm not too willing to test as it doesn't always happen.
Time for RMA? :( btw my friend has exactly this same problem on his R3E. I'm not sure if I'm out of warranty as well, have to contact my old colleague in the store I bought it from (open box).
Luckily I still have my ol' trusty P6T6 and i7-965! :D I just threw two of my 580s in it and of course I could transfer the SSDs and games as well! :) To be honest, I haven't been too impressed at all with my R3E, I liked my P6T6 much more. It could run my 990X at 4.5 with lower volts than my R3E..
Yup, i'm aware of that risk...i refer to this thread http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...20-1.65V-*HOT*Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
he uses the same proc as i'm using, that's why i'm a bit dare to take the risk for going beyond 1.45v of cpu/vtt
however, i will try with 2k dram and 4k uncore with 1.45cpu/vtt..and btw, is going above 1.5v considered safe for 24/7..?
Cool, I should do some overclocking later this week !
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...8-22032528.jpg