Jin, glad to see you got it all put together and up-and-running.
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Jin, glad to see you got it all put together and up-and-running.
Thanks guys, with help from many friends I am finally able to progress on to live load testing. There were some hurdles but I might have gotten over that I think :)
I really would like to thank RunMC for providing me with CPU and motherboard, NJKid32 for providing me with motherboard and possibly newer version of CPU, Guess2098 for providing me with GPU, and bunch of you guys for helping me figuring out what to do with this motherboard. I forget how fast technology can move in overclocking field :)
Basically the test will consist of VERY finely tuned NF10FX unit I made while back tuned specifically at 200w with Chilly1 Evap vs the newest NEK2134GK with Cryostar evap tuned for 250w. Of course, once I go beyond that, I am it will be obvious on which one will survive but the real objective here is
#1) Total balance of system given similar noise level and power consumption (which they are) up to 200w load range. Also will look at evap vs cpu delta and few other characteristics that might present.
#2) Typical application of what type of tuning would suit end user the best. Not everyone will enjoy the idea of running 250w load 24x7. (I bet motherboard will blow well before it's time... how do I know? Typically how I used to kill motherboard... some crazy voltage and folding with older systems thinking all is good since evap is cold... it's quite easy to blow up the cap or voltage regulation circuit that way).
Components utilized are Q6600 (I know it isn't G0... something old and supposedly hot)
***correction, it is G0... and runs very cool from testing so far***
, Asus P5B DLX, Very special Team memory (believe was limited production with the so called DDR2 fat body) which I have no idea how to overclock, and of course the 2 phase units :)
This bench station is finally getting used after resting for nearly 10 months... :)
http://vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9487.JPG
Currently running bios set 1.5v reading 1.42v around 3ghz. Going slowly so I know more about the CPU and can compare better... Upping FSB 5mhz every 20 minute can take quite some time :P (I don't think I need the voltage yet but why not)...
And the fire extinguisher always in reach at overclocking... :D
Vapochill LS mod.
NF9FX utilized and tuned for 220w (yes, there has been more improvement made). Had to sacrifice some temperature for 200w range to get there but after playing with Q6600 G0, I think this will be nicely matched temp/load.
Before: 200w
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/V...d/img_0014.jpg
After: 200w
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/V...d/img_0020.jpg
220w load holding is holding around -34c atm (fluke)
Mach I modified and ready to be shipped out. Bit of playing on this one too, holds 210w on this one. Few changes that wasn't there before went in on this one. Basically, it is easier on compressor as this is RMA replacement unit from one modified mach I repair I have done. I am still not sure what happened to original unit but I will find out when the borked on returns. Typically, I don't do cross shipping but this customer has been EXTRA patient through my ordeal and this is least I could do since I had one unused mach I sitting around. Hope you like it Keith.
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/V...d/img_0022.jpg
Now, this is total rebuild of custom built SS unit. There wasn't any leak I was able to find but customer came in to get it done "professionally" and making it look nice. After quick load testing with 2 customer in my place (yes it was packed, especially with mini-c in there), we find the unit holding beautifully until 175w and than crushing miserably when it hit 200w.
Basically, I salvaged compressor (required oil change 3 times to get rid of some acid present in system), condenser which fan was mounted only on top holes with bolt and nut ... which was loose. Grab some nice case from Under-the-ice and controller and let rework from scratch. Evap we decided not to salvage due to the braze filler filling up all over the place of evap which made it unsuable for the mounting he preferred and potential leak issue later on.
Wish brazing on compressor joint was cleaner but I couldn't get it any cleaner than I got it done right now since it seems like compressor has been rebrazed more than once.
Before:
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_9932b.jpg
After:
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_9953.jpg
Before:
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_9935.jpg
After:
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_9951.jpg
Before:
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_9937.jpg
After:
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_9957.jpg
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_9955.jpg
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/NoL/img_0019.jpg
Unit is now tuned for 220w Holding around -37c. NF11FX do dump a little too much heat for this condenser to handle using panaflo M1A so this is best I could come up with with some large desuperheater and some new tricks up the sleeve I have been coming up with.
Customer just picked it up and driving home (probably got there now). I hope he has fun time using this as he mentioned how it already got quieter :) Should be fun time for him :)
http://www.thewiltedrose.net/adam/Ph...g/DSC02359.JPG
Sure no leak?
Digging for pics of that unit before it left my place, but it looks like Tylerdustin totalled that thing before he handed it over. That "thing" didnt even have a 110vac fan on it when it when it left my workshop, nor was that all scratched up. What happened to the braid and heatshrink as well?
Temp above shows the temp it was getting at load. Lack of desuperheater coil was due to the 16" confinement zone he gave me to work in.
Good job Jinu though on the mod, I just wish it would never have had to go to you to begin with! I'll find pics of what it did look like and get them up, as theres no comparison!
Still sitting here wow'ing.
Beautiful now Jinu.
Do you have a picture of the "XtremeSystems Make Over" all closed up. :D
I think I forgot to... -_-;
Honestly it won't look much diff from what you have on e-bay though... I mean... it's same case, same lcd controller just different enclosure on evap :P Customer preferred the old style for looks... I think the white and black contrast do work well I suppose. Gotta think about color coordination on next enclosure... :) I can clear plexi cut top part on laser pretty easy... hmmm
The plexi thing on top of vapochill was something I drew up and made in hurry as I didn't really want to retouch the load tester (s939 style). Damned thick and sturdy for sure.
PS) UNSEEN... or Was it Gross? Do you have small length extension cable for the LCD and keypad? I had to chop off some left over from my bad memory of G-froster and used them but it definitely could have been cleaner to have them handy :)
Need to spray that compressor shell :yepp:
hey jin how ya doin?
which controllers are ya using for your builds?
PS: lovely units as usual
Typically I use LED PID which has been very trustworthy (not a single failure) and k-type reading. When customer specifically asks for LCD (which hasn't happened too often, I look for what is available. I've had too much money tossed down the toilet with that G-Froster (I still have one customer I am trying to get it done right for him... )
I did buy about total 40-50 over time I believe and had to deal with about 20 RMA just on controller part. Whatever left over I sent to Chilly1 while back to help him out since I can't use it on my unit as each controller was costing nearly $500 per controller sold on my end. Considering how many I bought and how many RMAs I had you can do the math on how much I really lost...
Since than, I am very skeptical about these home brewed controllers and stayed away. RunMC recommended this one to me (Freezepack) and I ran some testing and it seems to work fine so far from what I've seen. I also have another controller from forum member here sent for prototype review and feedback from me I am getting ready to check out.
Not quite as refined as freeze pack but seems to have more feature and potential as PCB is home brewed (which was my real complaint about this one but it is protoype after all) and the developer is more keen on listening about need for k-type probe. (it eases up installation so much depending on type of evap... actually on just about all evap).
One thing I would like to see on these controllers are bit different method of clamping down power lines. While those screws do work, it doesn't guarantee 100% safety while in shipment from getting lose. What Mach and vapochill used would be very nice feature to have and also easier to use.
I am getting gibberish now I will stop :P
Was thinking suction might have been too long but guess not :) Have fun Pal :) Man wish I had CNC plasma cutter to be able to make matching case for that one :P
Jakup that wiring is so neat and tidy :up:
Jinu i really like the looks of your enclouser especially the nuts on the end.
Very nice job, both the unit and the PC are nice and tidy.
Another SS in build. There was a little bit of delay on getting the evaporator, and additional delay for extreme leak testing to make sure. Now that I came back from vacation, hitting back at it (bet most of you guys didn't notice ehehe). Triple evacing now and load test to start tomorrow.
Cryostar evap, newest condenser in hand, papst fan supplied by customer, and... then confidential stuff in suction line... probably another month or so before I can release it out :P
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0178.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0181.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0182.JPG
[QUOTE=jinu117;2571621]Another SS in build. There was a little bit of delay on getting the evaporator, and additional delay for extreme leak testing to make sure. Now that I came back from vacation, hitting back at it (bet most of you guys didn't notice ehehe). Triple evacing now and load test to start tomorrow.
Cryostar evap, newest condenser in hand, papst fan supplied by customer, and... then confidential stuff in suction line... probably another month or so before I can release it out :P
[QUOTE]
wonder how that one will work to the one on the way
all I know is i can't wait to start it up.:)
hey jin have you ever considered putting some arctic ceramique on your cap tube? I've seen drew do it on multiple occasions and he apparently claims it gets you even more sub cooling/increase the load. Of course the return probably won't be as much as soft soldering, but something tells me it wouldn't be worth it to soft solder the cap tube onto the suction line
ex
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...50&postcount=9
Holy cow on what drew did... geez... I don't think I enjoy the idea of that much mess.
Partially, it is working on same thing but different approach :)
I mean if you think about it will offer better thermal conduction from the suction line to the cap tube, but I have no idea how much of a gain it will offer for the mess
Keep in mind problem we have often is also flood back :)
Subcooling in this case is almost like balancing factor in a sense due to some constraints on what we have for such wide varying load condition we design for.
Evaporator, cap length, short suction length, and need for varying load. Subcooling actually impacts what happens in balance of system more so than just straight load handling :) I mean, you could always shorten cap and handle more load if limitations doesn't exists.
True, so if you were to do that, would you need a longer cap tube for the same amount of load?
Not necesarily.
Given same cap tubing, more subcooling will enable higher capacity in general. Is it increased efficiency? Hard to say since heat doesn't just disappear :) But in general, you will likely be running tad less power on compressor for same load condition due to pressure differential, etc. (of course, within a reason)
The benefit of right amount subcooling in our scenario deals more with floodback issue in my opinion.
I rarely use suction accumulator in single stage...
Yeah I originally bought one of those cheap nf11fxs off ebay for like $46 shipped and did not plan to use a suction accumulator, but then I found a free used (but looks like new) dehumidifier that has a powerful rotary with a variable switch to control it. So since the rotary is already all wired up I'm not going to bother to put in the danfoss not to mention I can just turn down the power being fed to the compressor to reduce the noise level of the compressor (I've already ran it before to see if it works and it is virtually silent at the mid to low levels)
Variable speed rotary?!
Wow, I think you have something REALLY neat in your hand.
I presume it does have some kind of VFD circuit to change the speed of compressor which would be awesome.
There are couple of reciprocating compressor with the capability (A/C... all DC can do it), but the price is a little too high and VFD portion of it does take additional space.
No idea how it works, to be honest, I'm actually a lower classman in high school, just trying to learn how to do everything:)
But yeah this will definitely be awesome, the power of a rotary without the noise, I just have to figure out where the sweet spot is for noise:performance. But that will have to wait for a little bit, due to wrestling I have like no time on my hands anymore to work on it
Hmmm load testing at 230w... :)
Compressor is only consuming about 285w :)
In comparison, previous prototype would be consuming about 325w or so under same load condition. Efficiency, efficiency :)
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0185.JPG
This is the limit right now unless I want to put another trick up the sleeve. No suction line accumulator in use and almost 0 flood back under no load :P
customer originally wanted 250w tuned but that would mean killing temperature by about 3-4c. I am not sure if that is worth it at this point for 20w capacity as the trick involves that unfortunately. There was some complication I originally had with Cryostar evap that has been resolved after some reworking of unit.
I better ask customer what he prefers... honestly though, i think this is better route to go with 4c improvement on temp for similar load where 6600 q0 stepping stopped for 1.7v or so :)
beautiful!
wow... efficiency! great stuff. How do you like the superheat/subcooling thermometers?
peace
Which one? :P
I love the fluke, I also like fluke infrared I have, and of course the yellow jacket digital refrigerant analyzer. BK precision one you see was actually acquired more for data logging (it has serial port connector and software which I bought separately while back) capability for some other projects... much cheaper than getting fluke 54 with software package (about half of that). I am really running out of number of thermometers for some projects and been eyeing at 4 to 8 ports meters for a while :P
PS) if you are talking about the blue clamp one, I am not using it for that actually, I am using it more for condenser efficiency check... subcooling is done at condenser outlet which is not easily seen on picture :) I was using the YJ analyzer for that one till end of it (I really don't like filling hose full of saturated liquid/vapor on manifold hose and take it out of system as soon as I gain enough data).
haha you and your toools :P
i was actually talking about this thingy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/FIELDPIECE-Super...QQcmdZViewItem
Not that one but the one that looks like that?
It works okay but not great to be honest. For something larger than 1/4 would work great but for 1/4".... it's bit loose.
yey, its the same with flukes pipeclamp.
honestly, on our small units I prefer to use those wireprobes and just tape them on the pipes.
That include fan on consumption?
Yup compressor only. Fan is like 4-5w :P
Hahaha true, damn these 110vac are ineffcienct in comparison ;)
jin unit will be in my hands in 2 days
first the best air for my cpu
second i did water
then th big jump to phase is here after some work I can't wait
well its a day early and no load test done will in coming weeks but some pics
air ok
water better
phase is here to stay :clap:
Eeek if that is the temp reading.... -_- as I was talking either temp probe is mislocated or... flooding back. Don't run it too long without cpu on it :) (Do you hear any .... say water dripping on boiling oil kind of noise? also how long did it get to start cooling down once you turned it on?)
nothing was changed turn on test sound was like a ac unit didn't hear but first time running one for the computer. ran just till it was at -36C then off after some pics. unit did take some time. turn off at -36 just to protect unit was vary slow going down after -30 and i didn't see any thing lower.
i can time it to say -10 then -20 then -30 then -36 for you and get times up in about 1hr
That would be helpful :) One thing for sure is, gotta do it when compressor is cool (when it is warm it takes less time than say... complete cold boot)
But first I would like you to slap it on computer when you have time and get me some temp readings :)
roomtemp = 26.7C
start temp = 28C
20c = 1min 39sec
10c = 2min 05sec
0C = 2min 53sec
-10C = 3min 53sec
-20c = 4min 46sec
-25 unit not going donw as fast
-30c = 7min 28sec
-31c = 8min 15sec
-32c = 9min 49sec
at 13min stop unit not moving any lower then -32
-33c =
-36c =
roomtemp end = 27.8c
will do computer test asap tomorow if i can. i can't setup new mobo waiting on waterblocks so will use my old setup q6600 b3 at 3ghz.
Slow to be honest with you but we will let CPU judge that when you get a chance :)
Yup the cryostar edition took longer than expected unfortunately due to some complication of acquiring parts, testing it throughly and than.... painting painting painting... since it is one of the 2 prototype case I had in hand. Unfortunately, the case will have some redesign on next one as I am having major complication with the company I got this prototype from to begin with. (Just like almost everything I had complication with at one point or another... controller/evap/condenser/compressor...... -_-;
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0188.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0199.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0203.JPG
ok so i have a pc up now but not the one with jin unit still waiting on 4 waterblocks for the final parts. will post as soon as i can test.:up:
Nice to get 1/2 hp unit with 285w for 230w load if you managed that ;) Idling the unit consumes about 200w :P Copressor is rated for 1/3 hp but it is energy efficient line of embraco (displacement is 9cc... figures)
The enclosure is cryostar evap enclosure that came with it which isn't too far off from what I have had for prototype (if you remember about 1.5 years ago or so :P Damned money spent on e-machine shop... )
I am still not 100% decided on which of 3 designs to go for for final enclosure idea.... but first gotta wrap up that GPU evap enclosure.
#1. This was a troublesome unit. Local customer brought in not working Mach II GT. Basically he managed to snap off cap tubing and went to local refrigeration guy to get it fixed and has blown what he says 20 fuses after that. Upon inspection, compressor was making racket and further diagnose was needed. I found out the compressor has completely blown it's valve. Cause of it sever overcharge + blocked cap tube.
Compressor was replaced and cap tube was repaired once again and reduced some length of cap tube to accomodate a little more capacity.
Testing at 200w as I have no faith in this evap beyond that...
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/MachMod/IMG_0216.JPG
#2. Well, another one of reworking of custom built unit. Original unit was encased in v2000 but customer wanted ss case. Also, the tuning was done quite a bit differently than what I would have preferred/customer would have preferred. One thing I noticed was that as builder has mentioned it held the load designated in flying colors (kudos to that, first unit out of 6 builders unit I had to touch that did what it says it did). However, I can't agree on way of tuning with compressor reaching 95c....
I had to take out oil for precaution and it now has new oil in system. It's leak testing ATM and will be insulated, encased, etc when case arrives.
I've put something different again on this thing and hoping to get some good result out of this. I believe the compressor is NF11FX (can't tell with no label and some painting done on it...)
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/Revisit/IMG_0219.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/Revisit/IMG-0221.JPG
hi jin can you give a hint of the results of something new....:cool:
Here you go :)
Due to some major change in component, not quite to the perfection yet.
Ambient is tad cooler today at 19c right now.
I decided to go reverse on this to minimize some waiting time on temperature settling down :)
240w... I am actually quite surprised. In real usage I do expect number to be higher though...
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0228.JPG
230w... Well, what can I say...
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0230.JPG
200w...
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0233.JPG
175w...
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0237.JPG
100w...
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0238.JPG
0w...
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_0240.JPG
Still need to test on higher ambient temp and tune more but this looks promising so far :)
Hi jinu,
well done, nice results!
Some argued that -42°C at 180 watts is not possible. As you can see, they have no idea. ;)
Best regards,
DagoDuck
Hey Dago,
Du bist mir noch was schuldig :mad: . Hier rumposten und EC nicht mehr sehen lassen - super Einstellung. :clap:
Du weißt genau das es um den Lasttester ging, das es möglich ist denk ich schon. Sry for the german text :) nothing interesting in there .
Hey Jin!
Nice results! What refrigiant did you use? :)
:)
Moc
R507 :) Too bad it is flooding back at 50w.... bleh... I need to retune some more ... :)
ok so system up and running with a temp video card @#%#^
so im at 3.2ghz at 1.45 volts
just running windows at im getting on the lcd a temp of -30 to -29 bouncing without playing games or video just web pages and basic stuff. i will try a game and post in a sec.
ok so at the setting playing gears of war and cpu only using soemthing aroun 60% of all 4 cores unit temp on lcd was at -27C after exit of game back to -29/-30
update at 3.6ghz at 1.5 volts and 100% load for 1 min using OCCT lcd temp was up to -24c / -25c all other system temps from the mobo had no change they are way off to around -14c. the old bios would show same as the lcd on the cooling unit.
jin plz let me know what you think at last when i said some thing you wanted to see load so i have it here for you plz post back asap.
ok at 3.8ghz and 1.5volt vcore unit is at -27C room temp is 26c at unit inlet.
I get strong suspicion unit's temp probe is at wrong location again... -_-;
Do you see any change in the bios temp that goes above 0c, etc? The evap temp you told me is right around where you would see positive temp from system monitoring to begin with I belive...
PS) I am still in CES so I will be kind of unavailable till end of week unless I happen to drop by like now :) Sorry... but it's hactic out here.
one first note %&%*^^& i want to be at CES
and second note there is no change in temp using any sytems monitors
will the K-type probe work better and what is the range i should see
i get paid in 2 days and will order one then.
any plz link to any info from you about your CES time :) :) :) :)
ok so here we go testing tonight is
with NB at 1.61volts cpu is at 1.55 volts
fsb is 390mhz or rated fsb of 1560mhz
cpu is at 3.9ghz stable occt at 30min
temp on cpu is some where equal or below -22c jin unit temp is at -22c during the test.
NB was at 21c for first 8min or load then down to 20c for the last 17min or load and room temp is 24.6c
the unit was at -22c and during load unit back down to -27c / -28c
in pc software showing -7 on first 2 cores and -14 on second 2 cores no change for compleate test.
There probably already is small short temp probe (unfortunately, will most likely have to open the case slightly to use it). But k-type will work much better for sure. I've always had not so good time with those LM probes unfortunately with the evaps that are used due to placing it in awkward position.
CES was busy for sure.
so the k type is positioned better? / in the same area?
and i have played call of duty 4 and no issue with unit a 3.9ghz
for some odd thing the system will not post past 3.95 and this is stable.
new bios could help
will order k type temp unit.
They I believe are position at same place (RunMC did that part). But it doesn't move around as easily so I am sure it will be more accurate :)
As for not posting beyond that, maybe want to check with OC portion of XS for some tips :) They are quite robust in this regard :)
Well here is something bit different
Silver V2000, bit different plumbing order... Silver does have it's nicety for this more than I thought... (think this is first silver v2000 I've done after so many units...)
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_1386.JPG
What I really liked was the hdd bay on this one... Funny enough, this is something I asked lian-li distributor to make it for me while back and first time I finally get to use it... lol. Matches with V2000 better this way after all.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_1389.JPG
Sorry for delay in shipping this... I've been running around like headless chicken as of late.
Any autoc updates?
what a waste of space on that SS :(
you could easely fit a 4hdd bracket below psu if you just planned it a little more.
Hehe, I like the color, too. Not bad, but as tim- already said, there is even enough space for the power supply. :) I am also building such a unit and it fits fine.
Looks great Jin, can't wait until it arrives :up:
Gah ! I need to stop looking at this thread and reading it over and over and looking at all the nice pic's :ROTF:
Not much on Auto-c to be honest, priorities dictates such that I didn't have chance to work on that one much. last test was around -65c @ 250w. Still need to spend some time figuring out charges.
It has been a while since last time I posted a SS build. This time some differences from usual unit... :)
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_1947.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_1948.JPG
Yup, new evaporator. Takes more effort brazing, etc but I've had some good fun with this design before on some testings. This is actually bit more advanced version of some prototype runs I've been going through on evap.
http://www.vapoli.com/Images/Forum/IMG_1951.JPG
Evacing... going to take a while since I forgot to put the valve core remover -_-;
Good to see you around again Jinu. It's a pleasure seeing you're work.
Do we get to see inside your new evap? or are you going to keep it a secret?
Sorry, for time being, I am going to keep it to myself.
As I am planning to get into production of such units, last thing I need is someone to verbatum copy all the time I spent figuring things out and just make it before I hit the market.
So far, results are promising. Certain design factors of evaporator is to get rid of suction accumulator for higher load system (pita to deal with for insulation).
Overcharged (it starts flood backing around 80w right now), 250w load holding evap temp is at -37.7c and load block at -18c. In comparison, heavily modded chilly1 evap would do 230w at -32c and load block at -8c.
(Load block is closer to what inside of CPU temp might be like)
Cap tubing was made tad long for the load to start with so I might not have to put accumulator still by adjusting cap tubing length.
Heat transfer characteristic is right on target for this one ;) Even surpassing that of cryostar I tested last time (not by much though probably in 1-3c range).
I am crossing my fingers that cap tubing alone is enough for this unit (specification of tuning is for 230w... I might make it go higher if I see possibility without adding suction accumulator). After all, this unit is for 24x7 usage. Suction accumulator is not a bad thing to have, but I just don't like having them (for sake of cleaness, etc)
PS) I really never left.... just been too busy to have active participation in forum... all I would do is come, read select few topics and read pm, respond and than get back to business...
Fair enough, I fully understand.
In fact I am privileged enough to know a few Daikin secrets, our service manager has a Daikin prototype hot water heat pump in his house "testing" lol It has some very interesting features, wish I could tell ya'll.
Hmm, I work for Daikin America Inc.
Other than variable speed compressors and some fancy electronic units... I wonder what is really new in AC field? :P
Anyways, it's looking good so far after bit of retuning.
0-20w -50c evap
200w -41c evap
230w -38c evap
Typically 230w tuned unit used to have 0-20w around -45c... so basically we have now better unloaded temp, better loaded temp :)
as well as same evap temp having also lower cpu temperature than before due to better heat transfer characteristics.. :)
Quite happy with result of unit so far. Time to move on to more testing to make sure unit is fine as well as working on casing part.
Ah nice, captube in the suction always helps a few degrees, question is; is it worth the time and are the results truly a result of that?
Very Nice Jin !
And thanks for taking the time to do a build log, I know you are super busy. Looking great so far !
Oh man I just noticed the post times ! Working all night till late in the morning.
Again a special thanks for Jin and doing a build log !
This is what the unit is being built for...
Silverstone TJ07
QX9650
EVGA 132-CK-NF79-A1 LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 790i Ultra SLI ATX Intel Motherboard
2 each EVGA GeForce 9800 GX2 1GB 512-bit GDDR3
G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Dual Channel
Thermaltake Toughpower 1200W
HITACHI Deskstar 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
MTRON 32GB Pro SSD for OS
All equipment is here atm
:eek: what a monster rig !
WOW... Nice work Jin. I just sent my Vapochill out to you to be modified. After seeing this thread I know now it is in very very capable hands.
There is no doubt that Jin is one of the most knowledgable and skilled members here.
Ok perhaps a dumb question...
What does this refer to: load block at -18c ?
His load tester block is @ -18. This is what he uses to simulate CPU load.
ooohh ok gotcha. Thanks :)
Something I am fooling around with...
Transparent Enclosure and probably will put some LED (haven't decided where would be best).
Thing is, this is 2 part with bottom tube lathed and top laser cut than milled for holding them.
I do need to glue them together but don't want it to come out messy... what glue do I use? :)
Messy comes down to how well you apply basically, lots of practice makes perfect clear joints :)
use weld-on #2
beautiful work.
YOU COPIED SSILENCER!
(sorry i had to :) )
i wish i had your cnc laser. if you don't mind me asking did you pay under 5 grand for it?
regards
No he copied me, and I copied Ssilencer, remember. lol
You can also use acetone to bond them together.
It is a little tricky as the solvent is way thinner then water. With acetone you would soak them but you would have to come up with a way to isolate your glueing surfaces. You might be able to use wax. I would give it a try with some scrap.
By soaking them the acrylic becomes almost soft. When both pieces are like this they will fuse together becoming completely transparent.
Edit: friction welding is no good for acrylic.
Jinu the best way is solvent Glue you can buy it at any store where they sale plastics acrylics you need to apply it with a seringe and is invisible to the eye after is glued together....... I have use before it works excelent or I can send you a bottle when I get back to USA I will be back this Thursday . Let me know .
Danyblasco2
NOT MY WORK! THIS IS TRIBALOVERKILL
you can see the work he produces on his reservoirs by using weld on #2
http://www.tribaloverkill.com/studio...007_14-800.jpg
sorry for bad pic...
http://www.tribaloverkill.com/studio...2005_5-640.jpg
unpolished but i think thats the way to go.
http://www.tribaloverkill.com/studio...008_27-800.jpg
and that link just because its amazing :O he made that with very limited tools.
Its watery and you apply a tiny bit. It actually melts the 2 plastics and fuses them together.
Regards
+1 for weld on #2, it does a great job getting into the cracks between acrylic surfaces and forming a tight seal. It essentially welds the two plastic surfaces together so the bond is usually the strongest part.
INCREDIBLE WORK!!!! Welcome this thread to 2010!!