This may be my next purchase....along with the up-comming Swiftech Aquarium:p:
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This may be my next purchase....along with the up-comming Swiftech Aquarium:p:
Well, were' about to introduce a very interesting new concept next week, which I believe might help you build that Aquarium very easily indeed!Quote:
Originally Posted by sirheck
:rocker:
U teaser... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Thanks Gabe,
I already got my screw a few days ago along with the Allen wrench I needed to install it. I talked to Michelle on the phone and she was cool about replacing the screw but would not replace the baseplate. Mine was missining a few pins and I know that's just a cosmetic issue you would never notice but when you forget to screw down all the fixtures on the block it's the least you could do. Maybe it's not your fault even. I bought the block from Petras shop in California and maybe they messed with it. But yeah I was totally pissed when I got it. Weird thing it came with two support frames for the back of the motherboard. Two. Was that intentional?
Thanks,
Dave.
PS: I would still love to install it in my next build.
yes: one bp is for 1366 and the other for 1156. the 1156 has a notch on one of the sides, easily recognizableQuote:
Originally Posted by davidm71
http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/imag...s/S1156-BP.jpg
Hey Gabe, i found this new german review @Awardfabrik.de :
http://www.awardfabrik.de/kuhlung-wa...tation-13.html
The Testresults are very similar to my Results ! (My Review Update comes soon - 16 waterblocks included!)
Congrats to Nr. 1 CPU Waterblock ! :)
So at this time, what would be the smartest way to get a hold of a am2 bracket in Europe?
Play it nice until local shops list them, or have it shipped from abroad?
I bought the block but there was no inbus key in the package I taught that you would get one include or am I wrong:shrug:
Thanks! this is nicely validating our test results, and from a German site no less! we certainly can't question their objectivity. Honestly I was very surprised when mccoffey came out with such mediocre test results against HK on the [H]. I told him he must have had some sort of mounting issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by bundymania
Same but having the problem of others... i have the XT and BP True Silver fits just on one on the other i have to push and i don't want toQuote:
Originally Posted by CedricFP
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirheck
I missed something. What is the Swiftech Aquarium?Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Kind of a joke :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by StAndrew
Gabe
tried 3 types of barbs and wont fit on the second port...what its wrong ? bitspower, dtek and dd, second feels hard and tops...i dont want to have only 2 of the ones that came i always like to have a backup pair of barbs...are those that came with the apogee xt the only ones that fit perfect ? in that case i want a spare pair
Regards
Sergio
explain ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Can you verify if the barb/fitting that does not want to go in is slightly angled when it appears to get stuck? I just want to verify something that I found with the Swiftech res I bought recently. It could be indicative of the same problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
yes mate i did it yesterday on one port bitspower true silver fits even better than the ones that come with the block that feel a bit "loose"...on the second port 2 turns and get stuck bad...tried dtek and none goes on 2 ports...tried DD and same as bitspower so there´s definetely a problem with the block...i also bough the res ver 2 that i didnt tried the barbs yet...this for me is a hell as i live in south america cant return any products so im asking gabe or michelle to send me a spair pair of those barbs that comes with the XT block as any problems with them i have to wait a month or more :(Quote:
Originally Posted by dejanh
Hope this clear out for you and hope that swiftech send me those barbs i will be building the rig next month so i can wait but i dont wanna build without a backup spare parts.
Cheers :up:
Sergio
Thanks for confirming. I think that there may be a problem with the tapping process. My MCRES MICRO had the exact same problem you are describing. One port worked fine, the other the barb would get stuck about 2/3 of the way in. No matter which barb I tried it was the same problem (BP silver or BP black sparkle). I had to push the barb to the right quite hard and for some reason this did the trick to get it to keep threading in (before somebody says that I was screwing it in incorrectly, no I was not, I made sure that was eliminated on the first go at it). However, until it caught the later threads it had the "loose" feeling to it despite being 2/3 screwed in already. I will have to repeat the process with my upcoming rotary 45s, so we will see how that will go. Either way, I think it is a tapping problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
yes there is no reply still from gabe or michelle i dont wanna stay with just those unique barbs cant return the block or res as i live in South America and a friend of mine that was travelling kindly bough it from me, so if swiftech finds the problem i dont know if they gonna send me here :(Quote:
Originally Posted by dejanh
cheers
ok here's the pics
Micro Res rev.2 + Apogee XT block + BP 1/2 True Silver G 1/4
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/1627/p10302701.jpg
Micro Res rev.2 + BP 1/2 True Silver G 1/4 fit perfect on both in/out
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/3470/p10302711.jpg
Apogee XT block + BP 1/2 True Silver G 1/4 fit perfect on one NOT on the other, tried 8 brand new barbs
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/8412/p10302741.jpg
Apogee XT block check the second port and see the copper pins are bended but while they stay in place idc
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5594/p10302641.jpg
gabe/swiftech
just installed my new block on an Asus Rampage Formula (775, X48 board) and although my block is a "gigabyte compatible" the block appears to still touch the capacitors at the top side of the board (i've got a piece of plastic tape preventing any shorting, just wanted to bring this to your attention, my Koolance quick disconnects fit fine though, as well as my bitspower silver shining compressions
i'm already seeing a 2 degree drop from my Supreme LT at idle.
sorry for not responding to the fitting issues, I have been totally focused on release of the new MCR Drive..
I don't know what the problem is, and if it is a problem at our end or if it is coming from the fittings. I have ordered a complete assortment of BP, black matte, true silver, barb types and compression types, and feser compression. That's at least 6 or 7 different type of G1/4 fittings. Should receive them next week and will see what the problem is.
For now, it looks that no one is having problems with our own fittings. so I suggest you guys use our fittings at least for now.
Gabe, just wanted to say THANK YOU for making such fantastic products!!!
I am using Swiftech pumps and Apogee XT block in my build, and I love it!
please remove the tape it might in fact interfere with the components where there was no intereference before.... there is very little clearance under there.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
to check if there is really an interference issue do this: remove the block, and smear some white grease with your finger on the component.. not a big blob mind you, but just enough, as if you wanted to lightly paint the component with your finger.. then remount the block without thermal grease, and fasten the screws; finally re-disassemble it and inspect: if there is physical contact between the block and the component then you should see some thermal grease that tranfered from component to the copper base of the block.. if not, then everything is fine, and you can use your block without concerns. But if you do see some grease on the copper, then you need to RMA the block. it should not interfere.
Who do I need to contact in Australia regarding RMA should I need it?
Ive bought mine from an Australian who bought his from Jabtech. Is there someone from your Australian distributer I can contact directly?
I'm also after a 775 backplate, as I'm currently using one from my GTZ.
Hi guys,
i just recieved my apogee XT, but at one of the corners of the backplate, the part where the screw screws in has come of during shipping. you can see it on the pic below.
Do i just have to try to push it back in, or should i send the block back? apart from this, the block looks pretty much perfect to me.
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/8958/p1000956nw.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3wbi3
WOW :ROTF: npi ;)
Who was the shipper ?
No gabe your fittins are perfect problem is second thread i measure it and has a slight diff with the other so i will never make force to make it fit...in my case i bough 8 BP 1/2 G 1/4 and can't use them but of course i can use yours...so thats why i contacted Michelle to send me an extra pair as i live in South America no easy to get things quick hope you understand.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Cheers
Sergio and good luck with the new launch of products :up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
As Sergio said for his XT, I also observed a slight difference in the thread on the MCRES MICRO. And just like in his case only your fittings fit perfect. Like I said earlier, I think it is a tapping problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
please immediately email your name and address to michelle@swiftech.com so we can take care of this.Quote:
Originally Posted by skane
Please contact Mittoni pty ltd, they are our Master distributor in Australia.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
i've done as you asked, and the centre capacitor showed slight contact with the thermal compound. i'll contact Mittoni and direct them to this thread.
thanks Gabe.
Add another one that has this issue. I've got D-Tek high flow barbs that don't go in either port all the way and some copper barbs (given to me, unknown make) that do the same thing. Not a big deal, the swiftech-supplied barbs work fine. Just wish I could have kept my barbs copper. The block itself is lovely though. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
I had the same problem with the ports, using Fatboy fittings and also Bitspower 45 rotaries. Its not like it doesn't go in all the way, its just that there's quite a bit of resistance after the first 1-2 turns, apply some more force and it'll continue going in all the way.
Yea, I was scared of screwing up my pretty new block. Swiftech could (rightly) deny warranty for screwing up the threads when theirs worked perfectly well. Not that they would, but they could. Better safe than sorry. :)
If it helps, here are photos of where they stop:
Copper fittings.
D-Tek high flows.
The Swiftech fittings screwed right in all the way by hand.
Those copper fittings look a bit like Swiftech's. Aquatuning sells them as they are the only ones that are scumbags enough to re-plate other companies products and sell them as their own.Quote:
Originally Posted by hokiealumnus
My first WC, using the XT
Are these temps very good, good, or allright ?
Air
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/7729/tempair.jpg
Water
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/1797/waterx.jpg
Edit: I also had problems with Bitspower fittings, impossible to fit 2 next to eachother, and the outlet fitting would not go in all the way.. ordered BP 45 degrees fittings used it on the inlet and the fitting in the outlet i screwed it untill it wouldnt go further, but i could clearly see and feel that it wasnt in place, i just used a bit more force, after half a turn it moved smoothly all the way, i unscrewd it and attached it again, this time it went fine...dont be afraid to use some controled force :)
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/8291/dsc00570ia.jpg
Just picked up one of these bad boys at Micro Center today.
I got it home to find that I don't really like the stock fittings. The barb is too short to use the clamps I want to use. I am using spring type clamps. Zip ties are all right, but I like the fact that spring clamps will self adjust somewhat.
Anyways, I have some questions I want to throw out there.
I was looking at using my DD Fat Boy fittings on this block. I use them everywhere else in my system, and they work well, especially where there is a chamfered edge for the o-ring to reside in. The Apogee XT does not provide that chamfered edge.
I am mostly concerned about the o-ring because it just seems to bulge out, and the fitting doesn't get tight against the block, metal to metal.
Here is the stock fitting o-ring up close. We all know how that fits, its good.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...S/SWEStock.jpg
Here is the DD Fat Boy with its OEM o-ring. Big fella.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k.../FBWStockO.jpg
When the Fat Boy is tightened up, the o-ring bulges out. I don't like this much. If this is acceptable, I cannot see how. Though with a low pressure system I guess it cannot hurt much.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...ghtWStockO.jpg
Now here is the DD Fat Boy with the Swiftech o-ring.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...S/FBSmallO.jpg
When it is finger tightened, you can see it resembles the Fat Boy with its OEM o-ring all the way tight!
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...ightWSWEO2.jpghttp://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...ingerWSWEO.jpg
And at last is the Fat Boy with the Swiftech o-ring all the way tight.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...TightWSWEO.jpg
No bulging o-ring, and metal to metal contact between fitting and the waterblock top. What are your thoughts?
Again, I am using all spring clamps, and they will not gather on the Swiftech barb appropriately. I don't like how stubby they are, and if it weren't for that I would use them.
Thanks for any input. I hope to begin leak testing in the AM. Peace.
Also, mad props to Celestron digital microscopes. $60 shipped from Amazon. Really good bang for the buck.
What other elements are in your system? Do you only have a CPU block? What pump? What Rad?Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
I mean, those temps are pretty close to what *some* would call the limit, actually most would. Any chance you can back that voltage off some? I guess that looks about right for that clock, however.
If you aren't going to run that speed 24/7, then I wouldn't worry too much. Is that clock for benchmarking, or do you have 3 or 4 GPU's that you are trying to push?
It really depends on what you want to do with your system. Of course, you won't really see those temps unless you have all cores maxed, so really they are not that bad, but they are close to "the limit".
Not sure if I helped or confused, but still, that's a nice clock. Just figure out what you want to do with it, and you can decide if those temps are comfortable for you.
Check this too:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...-deluxe_8.html
Interesting views on Lynnfield temps.
Have fun!
Try to run LinX with full ram selected for stability test Ace. I prefer to keep my CPU's sub 65°C for daily use. Like mentioned these tests do not reflect real operating temps ( they can be to 10-15°C lower then when stress testing )Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
My 950 only runs at 4Ghz coz I need only 1.2Vcore then to keep her stable. Is that one of Johan's CPU's ? Also use the CPU mulitplier mate, no need to push 200 bclock on an extreme CPU
Just hooked up my review sample in the testbed, awaiting the return of my 950 CPU...
ouch nasty mate.. i bought an Apogee XT from PCG as well no problems here - just need some free time to switch my EK Supreme LT out for the XTQuote:
Originally Posted by n3wbi3
Tnx for your repley Cesthree and leeghoofd..
This is my WC
TFC Xchanger Quad
Swiftech apogee XT
EK-Multioption Reservoir 250 rev.2
Koolance Pump PMP-450s
EK-D5 X-TOP G1/4 Rev.2
4X TFC Triebwerk TK-122 - 1800RPM - 120MMx55MM
Tygon R3603 - HighFlow - 3/8 ID - 5/8 OD - Clear
Feser One Cooling Fluid - UV CLEAR / BLUE
10MM (3/8 ID - 5/8 OD) Feser Schroeffitting - G1/4
Sorry for not beeing clear in my question.. I ran a quick LinX 1024 on 4.2 clock just before i installed my WC.. just to compare the temps Air vs WC.. Not to bench or 24/7
I wanted to know if the 30 degree improvement is acceptable ?
Regards
it's very good indeed mate, ya air cooling kit was running out of juice at them clocks... watercooling saved ya day
It sure did, its like exploring a new planet.. totaly different settings and possibilities...Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Tnx Leeghoofd
Rotating the inlet is another option for fitting the two compressions.Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
Quote:
Originally Posted by dM@n
Yes i know, but youll lose performance ive read
The loss in performance is negligible. Its about 0.3 degrees in difference. Nothing to worry about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cesthree
What are you talking about close to the limit? He's maxing out at 61 degrees. I thought the limit was around 80 degrees?
Anyhow I want to know his ambient?
I ordered the XT and those fittings, still waiting for them to arrive though. So let us know how everything worked out with the leak testing :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by cesthree
I got an XT if anyone wants to beat the 15% restock fee spread at Petra. Bran new....
I am thinking Cestree was looking at his air temps of 89C max when he said that...but yeah his water temps are very good at 61C max.Quote:
Originally Posted by davidm71
You can judge approximate ambients by looking at realtemp minimum temps. On his water screenshot, at 4200, 1.36v core idle on water, ambients will be ~11-13C lower than avg minimum core temps, so ambient in 19-22C range, or little lower if water had been heated from previous loading or gpu in loop.
His air screen shot cant judge ambients because Realtemp was started 20 secs after starting linx, so not true min idle temps.
But would have been interesting to see ambients recorded in both, or at least realtemp min temps.
It was early when I posted. I missed that he had an Extreme CPU, also that it is a 1366 i7. I had 1156 stuck in my head. I really screwed up. Sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by davidm71
Ace, please disregard that link, and the information I gave you. I was mistaken on the CPU that you have. I am sorry.
I am going to agree that since you have an Extreme Series CPU, you can raise your CPU multiplier without having to raise the BCLK that high.
It is unecessary to raise the BCLK that high when you could just raise the CPU multi.
Example: 133(BCLK) * 32(MULTI) = 4265Mhz(CPU FREQUENCY)
Your CPU multiplier is unlocked up, and down.
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=2
I am unfamiliar with this sites CPU stickies, or I would have guided you there.
Also, please realize that I do not have experience with the Bloomfield i7. Again, it was early and I made a mistake.
You should look to the other members replies to help you with your temps, and do some searching for additional informations.
Wow, I was tired or something. I missed the air and water differences too.Quote:
Originally Posted by rge
"Hi, my name is cesthree, and most of you probably think I am an idiot right now. Like, how does this guy even breathe through his mouth?"
I will really, really try to refrain from posting such crap in the future. My bad.
Those air temps were high, the water temps look awesome. I wish that my temps looked that good with my liquid cooling.
Hey man dont worry about it.. no harm done :)Quote:
Originally Posted by cesthree
Nice calculation :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rge
It was 22 degrees
Dont know roomtemp yesterday must have been 20 to 23 degrees
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2...it44051600.jpg
This sounds completely reasonable to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
Just got her started about 15 minutes ago. Had some hang ups with routing. So far so good using the Fat Boy fittings with the Swiftech o-rings.Quote:
Originally Posted by KingLex
You sure you didnt damage the thread doing that ? my BP G 1/4 true silver just wont go on second turn using my hand of course i didnt force them but for some reason the don't fit on the second hole...Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
:clap:
Almost 24 hours (2:00 CST Yesterday) since leak testing started.
It seems that there is no problem using the Swiftech o-rings with the BP/FB fittings.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210007.jpg
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210003.jpg
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210002.jpg
Now, if I could only have that much luck with the BP/FB fittings in the Danger Den Acetal T.
You know, the T that they were made to go into. Seepy little bugger.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210005.jpg
Two out of 3 in that T are seeping. It sucks, cause I want to just get a nylon T or Y, but I guess I might be sacrificing some flow, and that T makes a nice home for my iandh Silver KillCoil.
That pisses me off so bad. I am either gonna have to get another T (Preferrably metal, I guess), or find some better o-rings.
Those BP/FB fitting o-rings are too big in my opinion. The thickness is right at 0.080" (3/32), which is just fine except on the Apogee XT.
The ID and OD are what I am talking about. I snagged an o-ring from my D'Tek Fuzion V2 fitting, which has the same G1/4 thread, and it is slightly smaller in diameter. Slipped that baby on a BP/FB fitting and test fit it in a DD Acetal L that I have. It seems to fit MUCH better.
WTF can't these fitting manufacturers get together, have a conference, and make a STANDARD. Maybe ask the ISO for some tips? It would be nice. :shrug:
Pretty sure.. got it running for a week now, unscrewed and screwed in a couple of times, no leaks yet and from what ive read in forums very good temps for my cpu is a CO stepping @ 4.40GHZ with ramm @ 1600 6-6-6-20 1T timings.. seems my loop performs allrightQuote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/756...d440566620.jpg
cesthree is jealous of Extreme CPU. Thats a sweet OC!Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
And yes, stoked are you with the liquid cool!
Thanx :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by cesthree
*CPU is for sale :yepp:
I received my fittings this morning.
They all mounted fine except as noted below; some were a little tight and needed some more force to screw in by hand, but they went in fine.
http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/imag...ttingsx800.jpg
Anyone feeling some resistance when installing these fittings, do not be afraid to exert more force.
One of the blocks I picked at random on the other hand had an inlet thread that would not even accept our own fitting: it screwed in by about 2/3 and locked solid (this goes to show that we can never rule out a defect). I forced our fitting in by using a socket wrench, and then all the BP's went in fine, but the TFC's still refused to screw in all the way. I had to use a G 1/4 tap to clean up that thread. After that, the TFC went in fine too.
I checked 20 blocks with the TFC after that, and found none to be defective. Implemented for secerurity one more QC step to check all threads.
So here would be a reasonable guideline to assess whether you have a serious thread issue with your block: if our own fitting doesn't go in, this would be immediate ground for RMA. You may force our fitting in if you want, using a 5/8 socket, and it might fix all the BP's, but it doesn't seem to help with TFC's.
If our fitting goes in normally, but you can't screw in your aftermarket fitting by forcing it by hand, then go ahead and send the block back, we will retap that thread for you.
Note that I did observe some wide variations in major thread OD of these fittings. So if a fitting is at max spec, and our block is at min spec, that's when it becomes very tight to screw in. Here is a link to BSPP (G 1/4) thread specs for reference: http://mdmetric.com/tech/thddat7.htm
Just thought it should be brought to people's attention that though it may seem offputting to see problems in this thread, that no other manufacturer has ever supported the launch of their product like this before. Fair play Gabe, customer for life if this keeps up!
Gabe, when you tightened down the BP/FB fittings, did the o-rings bulge out?
Is that normal? Or, would you recommend using a different o-ring?
I used the Swiftech fitting o-rings on my Fat Boy's, and it works for me. I was just wondering what your thoughts on using the o-rings that came with the Fat Boy fittings are. They seem too big to me? :shrug:
Excellent product. My XT is working great. :up:
the green o-ring in this fitting seemed to squish out indeed. others looked fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by cesthree
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2081_31830431
Thanks Gabe kinda late for me as i live in South America can't send the block back to retap...my is the case that wont go with hand...so i will have to use the ones with came and not the BP true silver i bought :(Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
I will send you spare set. please email michelle again with your address to expedite this. copy paste this post to cut red tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
i'd just like to point out that if someone does try the "force a fitting in" they should take the fitting out, and check that no parts of either the fitting or the blocks inlet have come off. i've had copper fillings from the G1/4" tapping in my heatkiller, which i cleaned out before use. it may not be an issue, but i wouldnt want them caught in my block or pump.
the support for your product is amazing Gabe and Swiftech, even if it does have a couple of small issues, you've been more than helpful on clearing these up, which is more than you could say for other companies in just about any industry.
Thank you Gabe, Michelle sent me today one set, awesome support congrats !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Cheers and Merry Xmas !!!
thanks for clarifying this, you are completely correct, one is never too careful.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
Mine came with loose 4 thread on the bakplate.
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8759/img00077p.jpg
We have obviously had a bad batch of these still floating around. We have been checking every single one of them since we started finding out about it, and we have also re-inforced the design of the Pem nut insert for all future productions so that it will never happen again. In the meantime, please contact michelle (michelle@swiftech.com) right away and she wil send you a new one immediately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyu
sorry for the inconvenience.
Hi gabe,
my replacement backplate arrived today. Thanks for taking care of me so quickly, now thats great customer service!
Just to throw in my 2 cents...
My XT 1366 blackplate had a stipped out hole that allowed the screw to slide freely. I retro fit a nut on the back to hold in on for the time being. Anyways, Spoke with Michelle and she had a replacement shipped out to me ASAP. Swiftech customer service is second to none IMO.
No fix to my problem with my mounting bracket? being stuck and or royally F'd and will not unscrew or fully tighten down now i have no idea how i am going to get the block off the board and i think this may explain my slightly higher then expected temps.
did you email michelle for replacement?Quote:
Originally Posted by Onoff312
Here is a trick. But tricky. Somehow get a screwdriver under the screw and gently pry up so the screw has reverse pressure on it. It's tricky. Then get a electric srewdriver and put it in reverse. Try it at low speed, keep at it. You want to turn the screw in reverse and at the same tume pull up on the screw. If there is still spring pressure you might not need the screwdriver or other tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Onoff312
Stuff listed above learned in my life experiances on PCs and my job as a mechanical/electronic tech.
One reason I always thread my stuff first to make sure the threads are good before the install, but that ain't helping you now............
Got one of the bad backplates:
http://gmat.free.fr/pix/A71F/13-broken-stub.jpg
Knew something was wrong, as the plate wouldnt even try to fit in the motherboard holes, so inspected it closely: saw one stub was slanted already, just pulling on it by hand was enough to detach it. Email for replacement is following ;)
Are those regular 45s you are using or rotary 45s?Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Gabe - not sure if someone has commented on this before, but I mentioned it in the older thread. I was wondering if we see this occurring frequently since the waterblock is attached to the backplate in the packaging.Quote:
Originally Posted by gmat
I can see this getting knocked loose in rought transport or shipping. I wonder if not shipping it attached to the backplate would eleviate this problem... my 2 cents.
Nope certainly didn't because guess what the backplate is on my board.... and it is stuck there will not tighten just keeps winding round and round and will not loosen so there is no point in me getting a new backplate right now when this one will not even remove.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Same prob happened to me on the GTZ model. one of the 4 holes wouldnt completely get in. kinda sucks
Hello, is there any news with regards to AM3/AM2 mounting mechanism / backplate etc
thanks
rotaries. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by FeRaL
yep i am waiting for the same so i can mount it on my AM3 965 setupQuote:
Originally Posted by mongoled
Must be available now, added yesterday:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27037
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvcircuit
I have the exact same problem. I will contact Michelle, thanks.
Great, thanks for pointing that out, now what is the procedure for those who have already bought a XT that came with the default plate?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
How does one go about getting it exchanged for a multi mount plate?
That's great cpu water block, I'm going to use it for my next core i7 build. Swiftech is best ehe
I'll save Gabe the time ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by mongoled
email michelle at michelle@swiftech.com
We attach the block to the plate 1/as a means to QC the threads and 2/to protect the base plate. The issue with the pem inserts has been resolved in production, and we are sending replacements to whoever has an issue. pls email michelle@swiftech.comQuote:
Originally Posted by jpm804
pull on one corner.. It will be hard at first, then it will all come off. then get replacement BP. If you prefer that the plate doesn't stick as much in the future, simply fold half of the protective paper back, and stick it like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Onoff312
the hold-down plate was multi-mount from the get go. You only need the 1156 (or 775) back-plate. just email michelle@swiftech.com to get one.Quote:
Originally Posted by mongoled
Gabe,
I emailed Michelle about a replacement base plate. What size nut do I need for the thumb screws? I'd like to see if I can get a nut on the backside until i receive a replacement.
FYI I've been using my XT with only three of the screws tightened. I get about a 9C difference on two of the cores.
Thanks!
Hello, I am sorry to cause any confusion.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Just to clear this up once and for all.
For an AM2+ / AM3 socket motherboard configuration, is anything extra required other that what is included in the default package?
Thanks
Does anyone know any reliable watercooling shop in Europe that would have these in stocks? The only good place I know of is chilledpc, but they don't have any in right now.
Edit: Thanks a lot, I ordered the block from highflow.
You mean the waterblock itself ?
http://www.highflow.nl/water-blocks/...1156-1366.html
or here:
http://www.it-service.be/webshop/pro...cts_id=1011219
HighflowQuote:
Originally Posted by muppenz
Oops, to late :p:
You will need to buy the am2/3 hold-down plate, and possibly a backplate unless you got one already.Quote:
Originally Posted by mongoled
thread is M3Quote:
Originally Posted by epidemic2k2
The kit includes eveything you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by mongoled