0.745 means your GTL is @ 0.62 [0.745/1.200], I think it should be 0.760 which will give 0.633, you can check this values with ET6Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
0.745 means your GTL is @ 0.62 [0.745/1.200], I think it should be 0.760 which will give 0.633, you can check this values with ET6Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
Quote:
Originally Posted by phsinc1
What? No, I am saying that my, CPU Reference, likes to be set at .63V, when, the FSB Term is set to 1.20V. That is my stable spot for my, CPU. Every CPU is different a little. Also I will add that as you are moving up in speed and FSB Term, the spot changes a little at a time but, again every CPU is different so take that with a grain of salt.
truehighroller: I tried ur settings, hoping I missed a setting relating to my RAM (clock skews, DDR write training, MCH volt), and I still get errors (2errors@6min mark), thanks for posting ur settings though. I might be getting these errors bc my NB temp is getting too high...it feels very hot to the touch. I still havent modded the NB in any way, not even a fan.
Can some of the experienced guys chime in with the importance of adding cooling to the NB, and at what voltage u should add a fan...mine is at complete stock. How important is it too have air cooling the NB?
Viper i have it stock and an Antec Spot Cooler pointing the NB and the GSKILLS...Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
Mine doesnt even feel warm my ambient is 21+ C, on summer it will be hotter for sure, im using 1,46MCH 24/7 and benched to 1,78MCH
Cheers :up:
Sergio
Up to 1.78 with just a fan blowing over it?Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
BTW: Sergio, U havent responded to my PM
I use 1.40mch for my 24/7 at 500*9/1250 and when I had the stock heatsink on it would get pretty hot when priming even with a fan on it. I also noticed that since the first ram stick is so damn close to the nb heatsink it would get alot warmer than the second stick. I ended up getting an EK 5 waterblock for the NB which took out alot of heat and keeps it away from the ram which stay at even temps now. If I were you I would atleast pull the blue cover plate off the nb and put a fan on the heatsink and ram.
LOL, seriously u havent said anything remotely beneficial, other then how ur hand feels. Im hoping someone has some crediable data. No offense HossQuote:
Originally Posted by Hoss331
You indicate your nb is hot to the touch, you get two very good tips and, you haven't bothered to even try them out and you still want more? And the rudeness.... :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
FWIW Hoss' tip is excellent. :up: How do I know? It's what I've done; pulled the top cover plate and have a 40mm sitting right on the nb, and my results are close to what these guys on water have.
Overclocking is all about being creative, and the little things actually make a hell of a difference. With your attitude, no one will help you; which is not bad because sometimes learning things the hard way has its own rewards. :rolleyes:
:up:
:up: +2Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
some kids need to fall on their face before they learn
For those on strictly air trying to run with the big boys, you definitely need to use better thermal paste, be sure your mobo is not warped and that the mosfets are making good contact with the heatsink, peel of the cover plate on the NB (may void warranty, shouldn't :down: ), then put a fan on it, preferably one that blows towards the mosfets too - if your cpu fan isn't the type that blows cool air to surrounding components.
Here is a quick run I did just did to show that 1.7v on the nb is possible with active cooling on the nb.
1.7v NB (ambient: 24c) - perhaps too high cpu volts but I wanted to run quick and dirty without bsod'ing. Booted right from bios at 8.5x545 :eek: No clockgening tricks or exotic cooling. :up:
4.6Ghz @ 1.7v NB and cpu vcore @ 1.520v
http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/...a6886c85b8.jpg
4.63Ghz @ 1.7v NB and cpu vcore @ 1.568v
http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/...acae25b2c3.jpg
Everest shot showing PL @ 12, I could run 11, but like I said, quick and dirty.
http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/...72aa8a7743.jpg
Alrighty.
wow :clap: very nice mateQuote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
i did my best bench thats on my sig at 1,78 NB air
Cheers
Sergio
What bios should I use for my EP45-UD3P ? I have F4 now but is there some of the others that are better for OC?
Thanks, Sergio. Yeah, as long as the chip is properly cooled, it can take some real voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
@Zucker, Not too shabby :up:. I would love to see what that board can do with DDR3 in it. I think you should pick some up! I would go straight for some low voltage CL8 or CL7 dual channel kits made for i5 or i7.
At 4 GHZ (8x500) my DDR3 system seems "smoother" than my DDR2 system. Even though my DDR2 system will beat it in all tests and benches and is faster, the DDR3 just feels "smoother" with less "lag" if that makes any sense. I think PangingIII experienced the same feeling as well between the P45 UD3's...http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=2641
Thanks, mate. You have no idea how badly I want to upgrade to DDR3. :up: I know the setup has a lot more in it, but funds are hard to come by these days so I've pushed that away for the time. I have nothing but great respect for this combo baord :clap: With DDR3, I'll be in computing heaven. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang
My comments were rude and I apologize to Hoss for them. I shouldve phrased it differently.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
I'm not the only one who needs to chill, your harsh comments are unwarranted and unnecessary also.
Fact still remains however...saying that my NB is warm and now its not bc I put a fan on it, how does that help? Now if, my NB is hot, I keep getting random freezes, I put a fan over the NB, now its cooler, now I dont get freezes...thats results that actually mean something.
I appreciate you posting your results Zucker, thanks.
It's only money. :D Grab that credit card out and look hereQuote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
:welcome:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
I do want to say I'm not here to call people out, but as you have admitted, your response was uncalled for - especially when he answered your call for help and gave you excellent advice. May be you wanted him to spell everything out even though imo it seems straight forward: heat + cool air = cooler chipset. :clap:
Anyway, I'm sorry if I sounded harsh myself, but your post was begging for a spanking. :p: Accept my apologies, and goodluck in your clocking adventures. :up:
Looks good; I plan to put this chip under water, as well as upgrade my psu and etc. so it needs some planning :yepp: I'll also probably go 4GB to max the two slots designated for ddr3 on the board. I'm currently trying to hold 4.4Ghz stable, but I'm sure my psu is no longer up to the task as the +12v rail (35AMP Total) is dropping all the way down to 10.70v @ 1.3920v :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang
Everest bandwidth
http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/...a714699dec.jpg
SPi 32M Run (8.5x518, PL9 1:1)
http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/...1e53e656ba.jpg
to get the real benefit you gonna need a nice set of hypers to do 2000mhz cas8Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
on 775 no big benefit with ddr3 unless you doin cas7 1700mhz+ or cas8 1850mhz+
I just did mate, no need to be rude on this guys are very good ones, most of all helped me on all situations and some of then sent me things to my country where i cannot find anything good...just have to wait a bit and do tests on your own also, not every mobo its the same, not every chassis has the same air ciruculation and also temps on every room...Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
Cheers :up:
Sergio
2000mhz cas8 :eek: That got my mind racing....Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Hi. What's the maximum voltage for daily use on GSKILL PI 1200 DDR2 whitout active cooling on them and what freguencies should I expect from them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
Here is my 24/7 Work PC setup. Not bad for a $99 mobo and $110 CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/4...pc247setup.jpg
not at all mate congrats :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang
i got a set of ripjaws 2k with epilda bbsa chip commin in soonQuote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
i hopin for 1900 cas8 on rex alot are doin 2k++ cas7-8 on p55
first set was crap 1 doa stick n i stick only did 1850 cas 8
2.2v is safe some use 2.4vQuote:
Originally Posted by kagula323
1260-1300mhz
How much is this kit?Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
i paid 96can$ for the ripjawsQuote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
the elpida hypers are 240can$
Andre, Thanks appreciate it! I've noticed with these boards that less volts is actually better sometimes, expecially with vDimm. My HyperX DDR2 9200's have 2.30-2.35v on the sticker, but will not boot no matter what settings are change in bios until I lowered the volts. My DDR3 OCZ's have 1.90v on sticker and don't like much more unless I'm trying to get 2000 C8 stable, and that isn't working out yet either, but 1600 as set in my sig at 1.90v is rock solid. I know Leeghoofd mentioned once before (maybe in one of his mobo/cpu reviews) to go straight for low volt i5/i7 dual channel memory for these DDR3 P45 boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
Hey Blue,Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang
So you say the best would be ram's like the G.Skills Ripjaws Series 4GB Kit DDR3 DDR3 2000? 1.65vdimm stock can the BIOS go that low?
I have the opportunity to test the EP45 T with my Quad and was browsing thru which mems to get for this combo and high fsb 550 up.
On my lowend EP45T-UD3LR the BIOS vdimm has a range of 1.10 to 2.76 volts. I was going of off this review by leeghoofd first and foremost. After the pics he explains the difficulties he had with memory on this board. I have also seen others who do much better with the dual channel low volt memory made for the i5/i7. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find any 1.65v CL8 1600 MHz+ sticks at a reasonable price from TigerDirect when I ordered and built my work system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
Hi all, I got a quick question about the safe voltage for the P45 chip. The absolute max specified by intel is 1.21v, but people are using 1.3~1.4v when OC Quads. How safe it is using voltage in that range? It seems people are judging how safe it is by how well the motherboard is able to dissipate the heat generated. How about the voltage damage like when people are talking about the max safe CPU voltage?
I'm assuming your talking about CPU voltatge? If so I believe with an EO chip you can safely run 1.45V 24/7...some people have even run higher 24/7 and have seen no degradation.Quote:
Originally Posted by pitashen
nope, I am talking about the MCH voltage, I am a little concerned going over 1.21v as specified by intel. Sorry for the confusion.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
I am currently running MCH Core at 1.30 and ICH Core at 1.20
No issues at all!
HI. I've just installed my Q9550 vid 1.2625 :(. Can u post some 4GHZ templates I could use for a start? Until now I've only used dual core procesor on my EP45-UD3P. The rest of the build is EP45-UD3P, GSKILL F2-9600 2x2GB DDR2 1200, GEF 9500GT 1GB, Cooler Master Real Power 700W.
Thank's in advance.
thanks for that i found out why i could not go over 3.5 it was the temanation volts for the cpuQuote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
here is the settings i have now
can you plesee tell me if everything is ok for 24/7 use thanks guys for the help
cpu host frequency mhz 463
c.i.a.2 DISABLED
perfomance enhance STANDARD
extreme memory profile AUTO
mch frequency latch 333
ststem memory multypliyer 2.40B (1111MHZ)
d-ram timinhgs MANUAL
cas 5
trcd 5
trd 5
tras 15
laodline calibration ENABLED
cpu vcore 1.225volts
cpu temanation 1.280 volts
cpu pll 1.500 volts
cpu referance 0.810 volts
mch core 1.260 volts
mch referance 0.810 volts
mch d-ram 0.890 volts
ich I/0 1.500 volts
ich core 1.200 volts
d-ram 2.080 volts
the temp so far is
prime 95(64c)
intel burn test (71c) max setting vista 64bit 20 passes
in games i have seen no higher that 55c
my cpu cooling is a true 120mm with 2x silenx 120mm 90cfm fans in push pull with the same type of fan as an exust
here is a site for pics i dont know how to add them
http://www.mypcmod.com/viewpc.php?id=190
Anyone running f10f bios yet. Always looking b4 i step in the turd pile, you know how it is.
yes i posted back on this thread...Quote:
Originally Posted by flybye444
F10f runs fine, seem that they lowered some of the chipset timmings, but inmo F10b still the best...
For those that updated to F10e bios you may find it very good as with ALT+F12 on this F10f will update your backup bios to F10f and get the F10e (this bios as i explained on other posts updates your factory backup to F10e)
Cheers all
Sergio
Heh does anyone know a way to measure the NB temp?
ill have my UD3P rev 1.0 board next week.cant wait
to have some fun with my E8400 and my cellshock
ddr1066 sticks.but soon,very soon ill have to get
me a low vid Q9650 and some g.skill pc9600's.:D
The Viper
Loco23,has an app i think,MCHtemp?i cant rember what its calledQuote:
Heh does anyone know a way to measure the NB temp?
yeah I remember vaguely about that, thanks for the specifics. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by radaja
hey guys, i just got the UD3P set up with my X3330 (aka Q9400). i know my chip can do 3.7ghz as i've been running there on my MIIF for a few weeks. Since i don't know the ins and outs of the UD3P i tried the EasyTune6 to see what voltages it thought i needed for 3.6ghz using the quick boost to get a baseline. when i go to Advanced and voltages, the only one that changed from stock is vcore, target went from 1.2375 to 1.3875v
Does that mean that i can run the board with vMCH at 1.1v and cpu Term at 1.2v?
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...gesat36ghz.jpg
64dragon: CPU term might be ok, the MCH@1.1V probably is too low at a 450FSB, but that is really dependent on how much RAM you have, what divider, etc. I would do some Prime Blend testing to check those voltages out.
Has anyone experiences the following? :
Tun OFF Gigabyte ATA controller
Turn ON AHCI mode
Reboot
System functions normally EXCEPT I am not able to get back into Bios setting no matter how fast I try to press "Del" Key. Leaving me the only option of resetting Bios by shorting the pins.
I usually like to turn off things I don't use, but in this case I have no choice but leaving the Gigabyte ATA controller on. I wonder if it has to do with my usb keyboard or is it just a little glitch with the bios.
i figured it out, EasyTune wasn't reading the voltages correctly, i had manually set the stock voltages in BIOS and it was displaying them...except vcore. i tried to manually set 3.6ghz in BIOS and it wouldn't remotely boot at the values in screenshot above, put me into a continuous reboot and had to flip the switch on the psu and clear CMOS to stop it.
Does anybody know what the state of these boards are in the UK? They're not available anywhere, with no shops listing ETAs, yet they're still widely available in the US.
Hopefully it hasn't been discontinued here :(
ok i got 4.4 stable too 1.46v temps 55-67c
you gigabut gurus you think this is the max?
vid 1.25
any template to try to get more outa this quad
Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Well Gomer :p:, For 24/7 opperation , probably. For benching nah, you can go further probably. On another note I just hooked up my water cooling last night. I have the pump running stil right now while I am work and will finish hooking everything else up tonight and turn her on for the first time, WOOHOO!! I took my time and ran everything perfectly. I can't wait to see my temps now.
wanna bet my air settup can beat you water settup:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
i was loadin @ 50c @ 4.4 with ac hookup:p:
Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
I think that my thermalright extreme was dieing on me so. I went up to 4.2GHz with my extreme but couldn't go over that because I needed more voltage at that point and the cooler just couldn't handle the wattage at that point but, this water cooler should be able to handle it just fine. I will stick the radiator outside when the temps drop tonight and we can see who gets further :p:. I love competition. :up:
with coolmaster 212 and cold air goin straight through hard to beatQuote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
you gonna have wait till it gets colder outside:p:
my thermalright extreme is 100% but my 212 woops it lol
It was pretty cold last night here where I am at. Let the battle begin :lol:. I will post some results later on tonight when I get home and get to hook everything else back up and run the system for the first time.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
as of 2am this morning i was 7.5 hours Orthos stable @3.6ghz 1.35 vcore and 1.30 MCH and vTerm, went to bed and woke up to a pc that had rebooted on me, windows error box said there was a BSOD. looks like the BSOD happened at 7am. i'm not sure what that means for the stability of my OC, to be around 12 hours stable and then have a BSOD. normally i don't have an issue if it can pass 9 or 10 hours.
It's you memory or your north bridge. My guess is your northbridge needs a little bump in voltage. I would try say 1.38 just to be safe and see if it stops. If it doesn't then perhaps your memory needs to be tweaked setting wise.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64dragon
I have a question for any one that can help. I hooked everything back up last night after finishing my water loop setup and letting it run for 24hrs with no leaks with, the motherboard installed I will add. In other words all I had to do was hook up the power supply connections, motherboard , video cards exedra. I then turned it on for the first time and checked again to make sure nothing was leaking and nothing was, went in to the BIOS and stared at the temps for awhile and the temps were at 31C about ten under what i was at with my Thermalright connected. I then went ahead and started setting my settings back to what I had them at for my 4.2GHz over clock and went in and thought about it and set my motherboard to alarm me if my CPU reached over 80c. I then went back and checked the temps again and nothing had moved still 31C. I then said ok cool, saved my settings and rebooted.
I was able to get to windows and went to open Coretemp and was going to run some Intelburntest loops and boom, blue screen. I didn't catch what the blue screen said. I figured it just needed to have the settings set one by one which I have noticed on my UD3P and when it restarted it just sat there. No BIOS screen nothing just darkness. I went ahead and tried getting the motherboard to reset itself by doing what I normally do that works which is to turn the power supply off for about five seconds while holding down the power on button and usually it will load fail safe settings and let me boot without losing my settings that I had set before the issue.
This time though that didn't work it just kept getting stuck in a reboot loop. It would turn on then shut back off then turn back on exedra. I was like :banana::banana::banana::banana:, I had to take out my second graphics card to get to the Clear CMOS jumper. I shorted the Clear CMOS pin and turned the power supply off and held down the power button again . I did this for about two minutes.
That didn't do the trick it was still stuck in the reboot loop. Removed my second card to get to the battery did all that good stuff again and put battery back in and the main video card back in and still..... reboot loop. I tried leaving the battery out for about two minutes and clearing the CMOS while holding down the power button again , the whole time with the power supply turned off. I did this a couple of times. I managed to get it to boot one time and the CMOS acted like it had been cleared because I seen the start logo crap had turned itself back on. I then started fiddling with the basic settings floppy exedra and boom everything froze and I couldn't do anything, it locked up in the BIOS screen. I tried clearing everything again and still the looping issue.. Is it the motherboard? I Googled this and found where some person mind you two years ago on a different motherboard but a gigabyte one none the less, mentioned that he had changed his to alarm at 60C and he experienced the same issue as me with this motherboard last night.
The person never did follow up to say what it was he had to do to resolve the issue though, RMA exedra.. Is it my motherboard died or do I just need to clear the CMOS for allot longer to get the issue resolved? I know that it doesn't like all the GTLs settings and everything else set right away and that was my mistake but, did all this came from that or was it something to do with the alarm setting that I set? The temps were fine so... Thank you for your opinion on this one Guys. There is no water that has leaked and the temps were fine keep that in mind.
truehighroller chek that you didnt overtighten the sinks
a slight bend in pcb can do it;)
I was thinking about that one as well. I will try to losen that a little, tonight. I tightened it all the way down :p:. Thank you very much for that one. Anything else I haven't thought about here?Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
After a very bad oc failure I have had my ud3p lock up in bios also. I got tired of taking the gfx card out to get to the battery so I use a large flat head screwdriver to touch the 2 pins to clear CMOS. I usually unplug it for a few minutes also. I had a similar issue and could not get any oc stable, random lockups, everything I tried failed. Started switching out hardware to try and find the problem. Nothing seemed to work, I figured I had killed the board. Took the board out and used my other ud3p and had the same thing again. Turned out to be a corrupted install, formatted and both boards work fine. May not be the same thing that's happening to you but if you have another hdd it may be worth a try.
Thank you noob. It made me so pissed after spending so... much time getting everything perfect and then boom issues out the arse.... It took me awhile.... to run all the cables just right and everything grrr. I apreciate the suggestions guys. I am just sitting here at work, thinking about it sitting there in my computer room needing to be benched :p:. If any one else can think of anything else by all means chime in and thanks again. I don't get off work for another 3 hours and then I will be getting anti freeze in my Wifes car and then I will be eating dinner and then kissing them good ngiht and then,,, I will get to look at it again.
I am going to take out the battery and unplug the power supply and put the clear CMOS jumper on while I am doing all that fun life stuff and loosen that block up a little as well while I am at it and cross my fingers and hope it stops acting up on me. I have an RMA waiting for the motherboard if need be. My friend also has the Q6600 that I sold to him so I can try swapping my CPU with that one to make sure my CPU didn't fry as well while I am it if, the clearing of the CMOS for a couple of hours doesn't work and the loosening of the block doesn't work. God I hope one of those two help. I would hate having to take the motherboard out again.
Another thing that I didn't mention in the book I wrote at first about this issue. I took both memory sticks out and I didn't get any beeps or anything just the same exact rebooting loop issue. I thought that was kind of weird.
Funny you guys are still meddling with clear cmos; I've never had to touch that thing for probably the last two years or so. With this board and some memories, usually, pulling one ram stick can do the trick (no not a voltage thing), but I mostly use the reset swicth; just hit it continually (like 6 times) for very tough situations like yours; that usually forces a hard reset (system shuts off completely, then powers back on) and I'm usually able to go back into bios. If you're running multiple HDs and you find yourself staring at the ICH boot screen, give it some time, usually it takes a while for the HDs to be re-detected. Sometimes, while stuck during post, pressing power-on button for about 5 seconds and forcing a shutdown can do the trick.
Generally speaking, when moving to water, you have to readjust all voltages because as watercooled chips get cooler and usually need less voltage, stuff like NB, ICH, and mosfets suffer because they no longer get secondary air from the cpu HSF. Unless you're actually cooling these, I'll recommend paying attention to those. I also strongly suspect what zsamz said.
By the way, you mean etcetera, not "exedra." :p:
Ok, loosened up the block, it made no difference. Cleared the CMOS for 2 1/2 hours with the battery out and the power supply unplugged completely and the power button rigged to stay on while I was running around doing life stuff, that made no difference. Took out one memory stick, made no difference. If I reset the CMOS everything goes back to stock so why wouldn't that stop an issue with voltages? Thanks for correcting my grammar :p:. I had known about the one memory stick issue with some, of the older revs of this board and OCZ memory so I tried that and it made no difference. I honestly think the motherboard is dead at this point. I even eliminated the power button and reset button of having a short by unplugging all the case button cables and just started turning the board on with a screw driver so that isn't it either.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
I am going to test another power supply which I have and then another CPU today and that will have eliminated everything at this point down to the motherboard which will then be going back to new egg so they can send me a new one. I had mentioned in some of my earlier post that I thought this board was a little flaky considering how bad the “VDrop, not Vdroop,” was on this board compared to others I have owned. I was looking at traces "etcetera " :p: and noticed that around the CPU traces "where a screw would not, hit from me putting on the block or my old heatsink" I have funky, looking marks on the traces.
I was not able to clean them off and I didn't create these marks myself during installation and I know that for a fact because I would never hit that spot as many times as it would take to make those funky looking marks. Perhaps this board has been flawed from the get go like I said and it just finally had enough. Here is the best PIC I could get of the marks.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5...oneforsure.jpg
It looks as if the PCB had some flaw when it was made.. Bad thing is now “once I have eliminated the power supply and CPU” I will have to take the motherboard out and I am not taking the loop apart so I will have to gently get the motherboard out by going around the loop with it.
That sucks man. Is going to be a job getting the board out. When I built this wc setup I mounted everything outside the case, the rad, res and pump to make it easy to switch out hardware.
I would have done that but, I didn't want my cats or dog screwing around with the hoses :p:. Here is what I have to get around.
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/2798/wholepic.jpg
Yes it does suck, bad. Good thing is that I don't have to rerun all my cables or these hoses again or fill the system back up again for that matter :) Thanks for all the help guys I appreciate it.
What's your pci-e frequency set to in the bios, do you remember?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
Yeah it was 101 or 100 neither seem to make a difference and when I reset the BIOS that should have set it back to 100 I believe.
mate as Zucker2k said i never had to clear CMOS, just turn off PSU wait and back to life even on hard locks---Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
those look like scratches, i really dont think that can have damage as theboard has a thick resin over it, did you try to clean that part to see if those circuit tracks where affected ?
Cheers :up:
Sergio
Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
Actually if you look at the right side of the Socket right behind the LGA 775 silk screen you see what looks like maybe, paint or somehing all over the traces that iwas what I was refering to. I think the North Bridge just died to be honest. I did the whole PSU thing as well at first because that is what normal works for me as well but, phew not this time around :p:.
before you rma it try firing it up outside of the case.
That would be very~~~~~~ diffucult at this point. I could pul the pump out and elliminate it as the issue causer "as it causing a short messing with the board". I see where you are going with this though.Quote:
Originally Posted by radaja
Could someone tell me the average FSB people are able to reach using a UD3P & a 45/65nm Quad?
I've been told the average is around 475FSB on the P45 platform, but are unaware if the UD3P can do any better than this?
I know it'll depend on my specific board, I'm just looking for a rough guess.
Thanks
I guess you could start by asking all with 500fsb (+/- 15) to raise their hands up. Frankly, I don't think anyone has bothered to look at the numbers, but if 500 fsb is what you're personally looking for, there's no reason you shouldn't get it; at least it wouldn't be the boards fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bootup05
yes i was looking to that mate, agree with radaja take it out, i know is a pita but maybe tracks are good and thats just a small scratch, or RMA itQuote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
UD3P = P45 rev A3 best around 500 fsb here for 24/7 benched till 545 on single loop shared with GTX285Quote:
Originally Posted by Bootup05
lots of p45 are A2 wich tops out around that, some where lucky and did a bit more.
Cheers
Sergio
Ok well I thought about it more and I will have to take it out at this point any way so, I guess technically it will just take me ten minutes more to test it out side the case any way. I hooked up my other power supply to it today and it did the same thing. I got all Macgyver on it and shorted the pins on my main Power Supply so I wouldn't have to take all those cables off of the hard drives etcetera and just used my other one to plug in to the 24 pin and the 8 pin connectors on the motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
I will start getting the motherboard out tonight and might test it tonight as well out side the case. Then the only thing left is to test the CPU and I'm done with this POS :yepp:. Hopefully they send me the best damn Motherboard out there for these series if the other test don't work tonight / tomorrow that is :up:.
IM BACKi got my new board and with my e8400 and WCing with an airconditioner
temps are awesome.:D
i did a quick install today and threw in my E8400 (recently returned from vacation) and used the same settings as before,and everything worked
great.but look at the temps on the cpu.my temp sensors are stuck at 27c and 29c and wont go lower.just a quick run.but i cant wait to see how high
i can take it now that im on water:D
9x500@4500 ddr1200.
10 min
http://i38.tinypic.com/33eh0kx.jpg
30 min
http://i35.tinypic.com/1076v02.jpg
stop
http://i34.tinypic.com/2qlvafk.jpg
Guys I need help tweaking my CPU Ref, I'm using Q9550/UD3R, I tried different ref .760,.785,.800 and all passed prime95 fine so I'm not sure which settings I should leave, I feel .800 makes the system more responsive. here is my current settings:
http://i37.tinypic.com/315fotj.jpg
LLC Disabled
Wow Radaja,amazing results!
Heh does anyone know what are the maximum temps you want on the NB, I have MCHTemp installed and just wandering what to keep temps to.
Ok, this is was what it came down to being after all that,
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2786/1003346.jpg
I switched to my old thermalright bracket and now it is working. I think that they should say to push down in the middle on the sticky pad real good so it doesn't short things out right under the CPU.. It had to have been that because I put in my old heatsink and it worked just fine. Then I thought about that sticky pad on the swiftech bracket and pondered so I went ahead and used the Thermalrights bracket instead which has the middle part cut out so it doesn't touch the solder right under the CPU and now it is working again. I dropped a raid drive though so, I am reinstalling Windows right now. That's ok though its working again so I'm happy. Thanks for the advise guys. :up: I will post my results later.
truehighroller,thats great to hear you got it going again.
Viper,thanks.how is that MCHtemp program workingQuote:
Wow Radaja,amazing results!
Heh does anyone know what are the maximum temps you want on the NB, I have MCHTemp installed and just wandering what to keep temps to.
for you?i only ask because i could never utilize it,because
of the 50c thing.i could never get it to show my temps
cause mine were always too low for it to show any changes.
Jor, did you ever test that EP45T ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
I have the EP45C (the DDR2/DDR3 combo board), and I'm using the 1333 G.Skill ripjaws (rated for 1.50v). The voltages go very low, all the way past 1.25v (didn't try to find out lowest volts).Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang
Oh, nice overclock, Radaja. :up:
Zuck, finally got some DDR3 for that board:up: How are they overclocking?Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
:yepp: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231275Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang
Got it for $79.99 with free shipping. They're rated CAS 8 @ 1333 @ 1.5v; I'm running them at 1600 8-8-8-22 @ 1.65v stable. They do 2000 9-9-9-24, but there's no way getting around TRDs with DDR3 sticks so bandwidth remains the same, and its not stable (probably needs more volts).
Here's my testing results so far @ 500 FSB (8.5 x 500FSB or 4.25Ghz):
DDR3 1333 - 7-7-7-19 PL8 @ 1.5v Turbo On, Stable
DDR3 1600 - 8-8-8-22 PL9 @ 1.65v Turbo On, Stable (best bandwidth)
DDR3 2000 - 9-9-9-24 PL10 @ 1.72v Turbo off, Not stable (a little lower bandwidth than 1600 cas 8)
@ 8.5 x 500 (4.25Ghz) I'm getting these in everest memory bandwidth tests:
Read = 105xx
Write = 106xx
Copy = 107xx
I'm sure there's a way around the strict TRD compliance - clockgening, but I prefer to run settings directly from bios.
I have to say one of the advantages of the DDR3 boards are the cheap, but fast DDR3 sticks with low voltages you could utilize in them. I'm really happy, and watch out for some screenies from me.
Nice :up: See if you can get 8x525 on Auto strap with 3.20B multi. The bandwidth is awesome but I just can't get mine stable. My E7500 proc is limiting me I believe since I have to jump from 1.375 to 1.425 in BIOS to go from 8x500 to 8x515. Might need 1.30-1.34 MCH though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
should I w/c both, or just one- and which one? I have block for both
thanks
Do both, but if you have to do one it should be the northbridge.
already wcing nb, asking about mosfets and vregsQuote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
Congrats radaja :up: and i saw you going Q9650 again you be wellcome :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by radaja
Cheers Sergio
I thought this was amazing when I caght it last night and figured I would post it up for people to see.
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8103/wowbh.png
I am rock stable again at 4.2GHz now and able to crank my voltage up more on my CPU now that I have water cooling. My temps are 36C Idle and 76C under load with "IntelBurnTest". Probably around 60C with Prime95 is my guess. I will post my settings for this feet here in a little bit. I am working at home today and still installing programs etcetera. I have a funny, feeling that I can push allot further now that my cooling can handle the wattage output.
thanks andressergio,if i can find that one specialQuote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
Q9650,then yes ill be where i want and then ill probably
sell my i7 setup.but only time will tell.
truehighroller,nice OC you got there:up:
:eek: i don't understand how most of you guys get cpu temps so high, i barely see 50C under Orthos load at 3.9ghz on my TRUEQuote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
i tried to hit 4ghz the other day but it kept freezing on me, vcore 1.45v in BIOS but only 1.344v load according to Everest, MCH 1.46v, Term 1.38v
You're not using enough FSB Term voltage maybe "and it is probably why you can't even get it to boot"? Plus if you run and utilize, which I suggest doing IntelBurntTest or Linx then your temps while benching using either or will be higher. The Thermalright Extreme can only handle around 200Watts of heat output is my guess because I have never been able to run across it documented any where. I have perfected how to tweak the FSB term just right. I posted about it awhile ago here and on the Q9550 thread as well. You don't want to start going over 1.45V is what Intel, has documented. I think mine is set to 1.4 and my northbridge is set to 1.54 and my gtls for the both are set to .912 which has been spot on it seems like for me so far. I am at 1.375 for CPU voltage in the BIOS and actual is 1.34xx at idle and 1.324v~ for load. I might be able to drop this eventually but, I am still feeling everything out considering I just had to reinstall everything. Every CPU is different though etcetera etcetera.... I have a :banana::banana::banana::banana:y VID of 1.2375 so this is probably why I need some more voltage on my FSB Term.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64dragon
This looks so much better :up: Too bad I can't get it stable :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by Zucker2k
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/8...hemem8x525.png
Its working fine for me...at 1.4V MCH it wouldnt budge past 50C, so I jacked the MCH up to 1.65ish and ran blend for a minute, and it shot up into the 60sQuote:
Originally Posted by radaja
cool.my system temp sensor is always at below 25c so i think
my NB is also got to be pretty cool.thanks
Ok, I found something else about this motherboard and it might have been said before but if so, I haven't seen it. I was benching and about to leave to go some where so I shut my system down. I went ahead for the hell of it and touched the mosfets right above the CPU with the funky little sink on them all by it self. That thing was damn close to being so hot that it could have blistered me. I put a little powerful fan on it and now my CPU is running about 6c more cool @ full load. I can touch it after doing benching now as well.
Truehighroller,are you talking about this area?
where the 3 red dots are?
http://i38.tinypic.com/el5mys.jpg