hey smiffy
i've got a 180 with the same stepping as yours (LCB9E 0704XPMW, #0009)
gonna try it under phase change soon, hope it isn't heavily cold bugged
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hey smiffy
i've got a 180 with the same stepping as yours (LCB9E 0704XPMW, #0009)
gonna try it under phase change soon, hope it isn't heavily cold bugged
AMD internal CPU sensors are ±10 or 12°C so I wouldn't worry about the given temps too much. It's probably the reason AMD doesn't officially support the internal sensor.
The error seems to be a simple calibration offset, not erratic readings, so it's OK to use for temp differences, just not absolute temps ...
Well, the paste arrived.
So off it came - much easier the second time round.
The big scare though was when I removed the waterblock, it's on pillars, and the AC5 was enough "adhesion" to rip the CPU out of the socket. A couple of the pins were glinting in the light.
But no harm done, it's up and running. Had to reseat the waterblock, but now it appears to be ok.
Temps are down 8 degrees on one core and 10 on the other - at idle.
Under load, temps are down about 25 degrees.
Quite happy about that!
Opteron 180 LCB9E 0704XPMW
259x12=3108mhz w/ 1.4v ORTHOS priority 10 stable (4hrs+)
aircooled with TTBT: 31 idle 45 load (asus probe)
testing continues... i really like this chip, feels really smooth :toast:
Nice chip you got there biohead :clap: .
My current cpu:
Opteron 175
LCB9E 0652 WPMW
HS lapped
Cooling:
CoolerMaster Gemini II + 2 x 120x38mm fans
Orthos Stable:
2955MHz
1h test, 1.475V
2h test, 1.5v
3GHz isn't stable at all. I have tryed 1.475V - 1.525V
I think Gemini needs some lapping...
My optie:
Opteron 165 - LCB9E TPMW (had XPMW too) - 2.6 GHz to ~2.76 GHz @ 1.35v, 2.8 GHz @ 1.375v
Cooling: ThermalRight XP-90 w/ Panaflo 92mm @ ~3100 RPM, 56 cFm
Temps - MBM & EVEREST (Dual-prime small FFTs):
Idle: ~31 C
Load: ~54 C
Opteron 180 LCB9E 0704XPMW
3300mhz (275x12)
Orthos still running, 2hrs past now...
It's very coldbugged. Will make some copper pads to put between evap and IHS, hope that'll get the temps up.
oh, and need more volts :devil: :fact:
:toast:
What are your opinions on Opteron 165 and the 170 on OC ability? I'm looking to replace my X2 using an A8N32-SLI with a 2GB G.Skill DDR 500 set. I'm guessing the board and ram should have no problem hitting between 300 and 320 HTT if I'm using a 165. I'm on a bit of a tight budget so I'd rather save and get a 165. If I'm hoping to try and hit 2.8ghz and 2.7 minimum then which one lately would give me the better odds? I'll probably get either one from Newegg so I won't be able to choose what I get.
LCB9E is nice stepping, regardless the week you got.
^Post results, I've never seen an LCBQE.
Just popped in a naked 165 CCBBE 0615 under my Ultra-120 - 2898 with 1.375 is very stable :) I am running with 2906 right now under the same voltage.. I'll play some games now and prime it later.
3GHz with 1.475 should be doable. I finally found a chip that is almost as good or as good as my CCB1E 0608 that I stupidly sold (3GHz@1.425, 2925@stock). That one had those results under water with liquid metal thermal paste though - this is under air in a closed case with a hot 8800GTX sitting a centimeter away :D Both naked chips
3208MHz SuperPi 1M stable. +10c air cooled with Gemini II
180 LCB9E 0704XPMW, phase change
Got it to run 3dmark06 at 3.45ghz, I went to get something to eat and when I came back, it showed the results but the system was frozen. So it could be anything really, the CPU obviously hung in there while running 3D.
Ordered an HR-05 and HR-09S to be sure it's not the NorthBridge or PWM. Does the NB need a voltage increase at higher cpu frequencies? I've always ran it at 1.30v..
It's not so much the NB needs more voltage for a higher CPU speed but it usually needs more volts for a higher clock speed. In your case you're only running, what - 287? - that shouldn't be enough to require more voltage. The A8N32-SLI starts needing more NB volts ~300 or so ...
Seems that my Opteron 165 broke, maybe it was pure luck since I got a CCBBE 0615MPMW that only made 2,6 GHz regardless of volts :(
So what can I expect from the RMA? It can't possibly be a worse one, can it?
Since my motherboard doesn't like HTT-speeds over 297 MHz, should I go for a 170 instead?
Nope you cant get any worse CPU than that one u had. :)
Got this one a week ago:
http://www.diskusjon.no/index.php?ac...post&id=153309
Will test more when my exams are over:D
Phase/dice on that one...:shocked:
WR Opteron 180 @ 3531.88 MHz
3500 MHz 3dmark05/06 stable
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=205255
http://www.ripping.org/database.php?cpuid=56
need more vcore :fact:
yes it's the chip in my sig. mine's heavily coldbugged but it kinda takes care of that himself with the heat it puts out while running WCG (I always have WCG running in the background, meaning every cycle gets used).
With the phase this chip does 3250mhz with 1.4v
on air it did 3100-3150mhz 1.4v.
I probably need 1.6v for a more stable, maybe even orthos stable 3500mhz.
update, 3275mhz 1.35v stable
and 3345mhz 1.41v stable...
That's.... sweet!
Single stage, right?:D
ok so I ended up with 3400 mhz 1.45v stable. after that, voltage scaling is bad; I'd probably need 1.6v for 3500 mhz because 1.52v doesn't cut it even for 3450 mhz. have been thinking about a vcore mod but my insulation around the socket is currently blocking the spot :shrug: and soldering would obviously void warranty.. any alternatives to get the mod done?
Good day to all! I'm stuck in dual-core AMD-ville at least until the end of the year, so I just got my first Opty (described in sig below). I have only used default voltage for now, at least until the AS5 sets in.
I quick-tested using Systool, and it reached an error at 3831MHz, so I backed off to 2.75GHz, and then ran Orthos for about 3 hours. It was time for a cooling cycle so I stopped, and shut it down at that time. Is 2.75GHz a decent speed for a 170 at 1.33v using liquid cooling?
I'll give it a week at these settings, w/cycling for the AS5, then another week of testing/gaming before trying any voltage. If there is anyone out there with some time and testing of this stepping, please let me know if I have a shot at 3.0GHz, or if maybe this is one of those steppings that doesn't respond to voltage, etc.
Thanks in advance and Good luck to all!
Oh, based on the temps that I'm getting, can you recommend a safe but likely productive max core voltage? Thanx!
lol cooling cycle what? AS5 setting in what? just up the voltage! Voltage isn't bad, CPUs love it! My guess is you'll need 1.4v for 3 ghz. Personally i'd stay below 1.6vcore. There is a point when voltage affects temperature too much which then prevents higher clocks, it's upto you to find that spot.
and sweet stepping you got there ;)
Wow, nice clocks biohead. 3400Mhz stable on an Opty is insane. :D
Thanks for the input bio! My OCD's require that I do the AS5 curing thing, but I cannot wait to try some voltage and see what happens. I had no idea that I could safely try up to 1.6v without phase change, or at least a TEC. Hopefully I'll max out the MHz before I get to that high a voltage...but I will try it there anyway :)
Well, while I believe that I have a nice stepping here, I think that I'll have to uncap it to really see what it can do. On my system with the current cooling solution, my 4400X2 running 2.7GHz at 1.55v idled at an average if 17-18C, with an Orthos-induced average maximum temp of 27-28C. My new Opty running at 2.75GHz at 1.33v idles at 18-19C, with an Orthos-induced max of 28-29C. Both temps are only slightly higher, but the Opty is running over 2/10's of a volt lower core voltage; it should be running cooler.
When I crank the voltage up, heat rises quickly. At 1.52v, the max temps have reached 34-35C! I should never be able to get it that hot. Having removed several IHS's already, I've learned the hard way that cool-running CPU's (like my 4400X2) benefit very little from having the IHS removed, but CPU's that seem to run hotter that others like it run much cooler uncapped.
Again, this is only based on my observations, and please let me know if I'm just stating what everyone already knows, but the cooler-running CPU's that I've uncapped (before I knew better) seemed to have a much better connection between the IHS and the core; the thermal paste looked perfect. On the other side of the coin are CPU's (like my old FX-55) with what appears to be air-pockets, or other flaws/inconsistencies in the paste connecting the IHS and the core.
Anyway, since they're only $100 now I guess that I'll pop-the-top, and see what happens. Happy GHz to all!
keep in mind that the expert board reports the CPU temperature about 10 degrees lower than actual, so 35 is actually 45 degrees. no worries though, personally anything below 55 degrees isn't really a problem. so i don't know where that exclamation mark is coming from ;) i think 45 max at that voltage is pretty good :)
That's good to know. I had noticed that at the current settings, and at complete idle, the CPU temp normally sits at 19C in Windows. However, in the BIOS, it is being reported as 25C. While that's not 10 degrees, its still way off. I guess that I noticed it but never questioned it. Would the CPU be idling 4 degrees warmer in Windows than it is while in the BIOS due to increased activity, thereby raising the idle from 25C to 29C? Hadn't thought of that possibility.
Still though, same system, etc, shouldn't the Opty at 1.33v be running cooler than the X2 at 1.55v when running at approximately the same speed? Maybe there is something about the Opty line that I don't yet know?
As always, thanks for the input! Oh, and I want a 3.4GHz Opty. Can I please have one? Can I? Can I? :) Damn, what's the 1M SuperPI at 3.4GHz?
unoptimized 26.453s
http://i19.tinypic.com/66461c3.jpg
Optie 165 @ 2.9 GHz, needs 1.45v :-\
It seems it won't budge over 2.8 GHz, but still going with the Apevia Chameleon 550W PSU, it's a bit low on the 12V rails since I'm running a powerhungry X1800XT on it aswell. Going for a MIST 600W soon I hope, 4x12V rails with 20amps on each, total output 44.5 Amps! Not the rotten 34 max PEAK c*rap like now! :shrug:
update, unoptimized but tweaked memory
http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/saaaimen/pi1m_3400.jpg
At the end of this week I have my new opty 170 :)
I hope it clocks well :D
i just got a opty 175 CCBBE 0617 EPMW
but im rebuilding my setup and i have to test a opty 165 LCB9E 0651 RPMW
first :/
I got the LCB9E 0703 XPMW :)
Opteron 165 CCBBE 0615EPMW - naked under a Thermalright Ultra-120
2.9GHz @ stock volts, RAM on the 150 divider 241.5MHz 2.5-3-2-6
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4...8135ca2.th.jpg
2916MHz brings the RAM to 243, which it can't handle. I think this chip can easily do 3-3.1GHz on air, I'll have to test - but it's 2.9 with the RAM at it's max speed for 24/7 :)
I've heard the stock Opteron cooler is quite good. Does anyone know how it compares to the Zalman CNPS9500 ? I'll have a choice of using either one but I'm lazy and don't feel like doing multiple remounts to test it.
I know the Zalman CNPS9700 is better than the stock opteron cooler. The 9700 can be compared to the one I'm using, the ThermalTake BigTyphoon 120VX, and is somewhat better than the stock cooler. Don't misunderstand, the stock cooler is quite good, but can be considered as a good mid-end cooler. The 9500, 9700 and the TT BigTyp 120 VX is high-end cooling and will perform better.
Having said that, I don't know on personal experience with the 9500, but I have tested the stock Opteron cooler with the four heatpipes, and it totally rocks - really, think the 9500 might pull off lower temps, but I honestly don't know. The thing with the opty cooler is that it is so goddamn silent - and at the same time performs so well. The AMD fan on it is also temp regulated on it's own (not PWM I'm talking about), so if the temps rise above certain hights it will start it's "afterburner", and I measured it to spin 6250 rpm!!! That's just insane for a fking 80mm fan... or whatever it is... it's small! It blew like a hurricane! When not THAT EXTREME hot (I put a 2000W heating fan to cabinet door to test this ;)) it only blows at 3125 rpm and is really really silent.
To make this less confusing, I use to put air-coolers in three categories;
1. Low-end - like the stock aluminium block for AMD!
2. Mid-end - better than low-end but not totally super, can contain both alu and copper, but some of them is all copper.
3. High-end - the best of them, can contain both alu and copper but has better solutions and performance then both low-end and mid-end. All copper base (personal opinion) ;)
Nice chip! Remember I had 2 180's with the same stepping. One of them did about the same as your chip (maybe a few mhz less), the other one was a bit worse. But both were INCREDIBLY cool chips. I tried it @ 1.65v and 3.1GHz - using my Zalman 9500 - and the temps were never more than 52-53C. Which is about the same as the Opty 175 I have, except that it runs at 3Ghz - 1.26v......
CCBBE 0615EPMW is the best s939 stepping for ppl with air cooled rigs:D
I recommend the 9500. It's not the BEST, but still very good. Easy to mount and looks great as well, especially if you have some blue LEDs;)
I never tried the stock cooler, but I just can't imagine anything "stock" can beat the Zalman.
Amd Opteron 170 LCB9E 0703XPMW
DFI Ultra BIOS Mod 21-05-2007
OCZ EL DDR PC-3200 Platinum rev 2 ver 1.0
Well... She's a 0613RPMW:D I think I posted a link to a screenshot somewhere. Wasn't a 3g-screenie, but 2.86 @ 1.19v, on my good ol' Zalman 9500 ;)
It's too d*mn hot here now so I won't try to push her yet. A friend of mine is waiting for some pots so I will definately try it on dice someday. It's running so hot it should be no problem if I up the voltage a bit.
Got it off ebay a month or two ago, btw. Buy it now for $190.
i just got my opti 165 CCBWE 0551WPMW (in israel it's very very hard to find dual core 939 this days) with a ninja cooler and
with my DFI RS482 and A-Data Vitesta ddr500 512*2
i ve got my 170,anyone have seen this stepping(lcbqe)
i ve google it and i saw nothing...I hope its a good chip!
I just won a 165 off of ebay, its a CCBBE 0614EPMW. I was wondering if I have to install any drivers or anything for my new CPU. This will be my first duel core cpu. I just want to know if I have to do anything besides pop it in and OC the hell out of it. Thanks.
If you already installed the AMD K8 driver all you basicly will have to do is put swap put the cpu with the old one and install the "dual core optimizer" driver. That's it. I've tried several times to install this so called "hot fix" from microsoft, but had to reinstall XP every time, so I beg you - don't try that :)
So I just need to instal the dual core optimizer and thats it. Sounds simple enough. thanks.
That's about it yes :) You'll find it on the official AMD website :)
I know this is the wrong thread for this, but I got a 3000+ about two months ago, thought it was a winchester as the seller claimed it to be, so I didn't bother with it any much, but decided a couple of days ago to check it out.... turned out it was a 1.4V Venice instead! Strangely enough the seller had removed IHS, which I glued back on... sounds a bit strange that he claimed it to be a winchester so I really don't think he OC'd it to much... anyways, I now have it on 2.8 GHz... which is 1 GHz over stock... getting a new PSU in the mail in the morning, a more 12V strong PSU than the one I got, so I hope I can squeese even more out of it then ;)
Nice OC on that venice. The best I could get on my 3200 venice was 2.5. By the way how do you think I could get on the new 165 CCBBE 0614EPMW?
I see that repoman got up to 2.9 @ 1.35 with the exact same stepping. Sweet.
The CCBBE 0615EPMW is known to reach 3ghz... that's produced only a week after yours!! All CCBBE is supposed to be good. Atleast by this list ;) http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=96900
And yeah, I got lucky with the 3000+, especially considering I only paid like 30-40$ for it :up:
EDIT: I almost feel sorry for the man who sold it to me :D:D
Oh wait I did get the 0615. not 0614, guess I hit the wrong key. Now I just got to worry if anyone will buy my 3700. It seems single core cpus are harder to sell. If I cant sell it I'll probably just make it my new keychain.
I don't think it's any harder to sell, it's just a harder buyers market. I mean, that the buyer can be more picky about what to buy, since nobody wants to pay to much. But if you advertise it for what it is. A real overclockable 3700+ that has been run at 3ghz+ I think you will be getting more for it and maybe even getting a sale quicker.
And with the 165 CCBBE 0615EPMW... try and use the list on the link I gave you to see what volts it was run on to get 3 ghz and if it was on air-cooling or water-cooling. Then you'd atleast know somewhat around what you should excpect.
Does anyone know how terrible the coldbug is on a LCB9E?
My 0615 doesn't really like anything but stock +/- .025. I can't run 2.4 @ 1.2 (which would bring my ram to the max) and it takes 1.25v for 2655. It does 2.9@stock but won't run 3GHz @ 1.5 :/
Wow repoman I thought for sure that you could have gotten up to around 3.1 if you could get 2.9 at stock volts. Its still a great OC. I'll be happy if I get up to 2.8. By the way how hot do these chips get? I remember my upgrade from my 3200 venice to my 3700 sandie. The idle temps went up around 10C. If the temp goes up even further on the new 165 then I'll have to get a new air cooler.
Yeah, if it scaled like most 939 opties it would have done 3.1@1.55 if I could keep temps down. But, it doesn't scale at all, only likes 1.35v :shrug:
It gets to about 44C on each core in Core Temp with stock volts. The chip is naked under a Thermalright Ultra-120. With the side panel on, it gets to about 50C, and also will only do 2.87GHz. 30MHz is a good trade-off for really isolating the fan noise - this setup is quieter than my water cooling, both used 4x 120mm Yate Loon's total, but with water 2 were out of the case on the radiator ;)
New 170 LCB9E 0704XPMW came in today, ran too hot at 62/73C for each core in core temp so I cut off the IHS. New results -
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/7...8135oa6.th.jpg
got a much older LCB9E 0641 APMW.. this thing runs HOTHOTHOT,
stock using koolance 305 block in a 2PC601 it was hitting 70c @2.8ghz @ 1.425v
lapped got it to 68c @ 2.9ghz (1.525v)
de-capped got it to 65c @ 3ghz (1.575v) (water at 35c),
swapped to a TDX+ bong 48c @ 3ghz (1.55v)... (water at 21c)
managed to run a few benchmarks at 3220mhz (1.65v) but seems ram or mobo lets go at about 260mhz (3000 fails 3d, passes prime+memtest @ 1.5v but passes 3d with either 1.55v OR ram at 200 OR ram timings TIGHTENED in windows - same timings cause no-boot if set in bios...) so i cant say how much it would do on a better board...
Hehe, I have to find max stable at 1.35v first :D This is my usual method, and it's treated me well. Both cores are down to 45/45C this morning, and it's passed the first 6 Prime95 tests so far at 3000MHz@1.35v - better than the two it got last night :)
No, I think if I had used stock cooling at first it would have burned right up. Core 1 would have gotten close to 90C :eek: since it was at 75 with the Ultra-120..
Probably SS, look what biohead got on his.
New result - 3GHz with stock voltage
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2...1352uj5.th.jpg
Got an Opty 170 stepping LCB9E 0704XPMW. 2.9ghz @ 1.39v cooled with scythe ninja and Nexus Real Silent (1000rpm) @ 75% (silent freak here :p).
IHS has been removed - Full load with orthos is around 65/63C but it runs around 56/54C running folding@home :)
Temps were hitting 70C with the IHS on :p:
Hi guys,
I am new in here,a month ago i got an Opteron 185 2.6Ghz Toledo core(OSA185CDBOX).
I push it up to 3060Mhz 1.425v on stock cooler,but temps went over 70ºC when i stress it with OCCT so i had a big house fan to blow in there trying to keep temps bellow 70ºC.
I can't find a lot of informations about this chip or any reviews,anyone know how high can this chip go with water cooling?Is it worth to get a water cooling?
At the moment i have it up to 2952Mhz at 1.33v.
Because i don't know how to put my specks in my signature,i will write them here:
Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
Opty 185 2.6Ghz(toledo)
Asus EN 8800GTX 768mb
Corsair Twinx 2048-3500LL PRO
PCP&C 750Watt Quad
WD 120GB Sata2,WD 250GB Sata2
Thanks a lot.
stealth
Very nice chip, you can probably get it a good bit further with water than you can now. When my 170 was hitting 70C+ on stock volts, it wouldn't even do 2900MHz stable (not sure what actual stable was as I never tested). Now that the IHS is off and it's at 45C, it does 3000MHz on stock volts - that should be comparable to the temp decrease you'll get.
Thanks Repoman,
What actually try to find out is,if my chip will do something like 3.2+Ghz then i think it's worth to spend money for water cooling,if i only get up to 3.1 i don't think is worth it.
The difference in performance from 2952 to 3100 is not that much to spend 350-400 euro.
stealth
Watercooling for your CPU wont cost 340-400€ ;)
I t's not cheap but more like 200€ depending on where you get it and shipping prices, plus it's not something you throw away when you get a new system. I like to see it as a long term solution.
Thanks for reply v0dka,
May in Holland is cheaper but here in Greece...,i was lokking at a Swiftech kit for watercooling CPU and graphics and costs 350 euro.
http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=943436
Well,i can get cheaper things but i don't want to put in the system something i don't really trust.
Also to get it from another country i don't think it's worth,it will cost the same with shipping.
stealth
wow the 170 is nice chip....its so cheap now to
i paid like $150 for my 165 back in february.
ok well anyways....i have an opty 165 and the voltage says its at about 1.39 in speedfan and cpuz.....its set at 1.350 in the bios
yurs says 1.32.... did u lower it? or is it still stock.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1217/...f425dd95_o.jpg
now when i want to overclock more, how should i handle the HT link?
im not sure how far i can push it with this stepping lcb9e 0704tpmw
To lower the voltage you need to enable Over Voltage CPU VCore in BIOS.
This will add 0.205v to the value you have in BIOS so if you want your voltage to be something like 1.305v in windows the value you need to put in BIOS must be 1.1v.(always you need to add to the value you have in BIOS 0.205v to find your correct voltage in windows,if you have Over Voltage CPU VCore enable)
As for the HT Link(FSBXK8 to NB Frequency)some will say(including me) that anything under 1600 will be fine.
I hope this helps.
stealth
ok cool thanks stealth.
well for now i want to keep it stock .... i want to keep the temps as low as possible.
yeah i heard the opty's can run high HT links.
170 stock cooling and DFI Ultra-D .
http://img166.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2730vv9.jpg
It's an old test , about one year ago , i don't remember . :)
whats the difference between the denmark core and toledo core?
for an opty 165
,i saw acouple of reviews at newegg claiming that their selling the demark core now instead of the toledo.
All you really need for your CPU is the block, a pump, and a rad:
http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=933937 - 55ε
http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=926736 - 54ε
http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=926914 - 30ε
Total - 140ε
Add in a couple of fans (your choice), a few feet of tubing, and a plastic (or copper) "T" for a grand total of maybe 170ε and you're all set for about half the price. If you include a GFX block add another 45ε.
If you can find an MCR220 it's a little better rad than the BIP II listed but the site you gave only has the MCR320 - a triple rad. You could get the MCR320 and use lower speed fans with it - it would be a little quieter that way but also harder to mount. The double rad can still hang off the back of your case like the kit unit does ...
Thanks QuietIce for the informations.
I need to search a bit more before i decide what to get,i need to find out if the stuff i will get worth the money i will spend.
Thanks a lot.
stealth