yes from hot air\condensation...not stained permantly.your off topic.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellcamino
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yes from hot air\condensation...not stained permantly.your off topic.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellcamino
the same reason that silenX fans can push 60 cfm and be rated at 16db. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by TedShred
temperature comes into bearing, the amount of carbon dioxide that has yet dissolved into the water as it comes to equilibrium, who is testing it (and how honest they are), etc. Rain water commonly tests in the 5.4-6 ph range, and that's distillation at work (yes, there are pollutants in the air too). so, just saying that water has a ph of 7 leaves out so many variables.
still, unless the water is acidic, it should not have a ph of 2-3. wouldn't being more acidic be BAD for your loop?
yes, being more acidic would be bad.
your radiator won't be thanking you for it after prolonged use, especially if its at 2-3ph....
:TQuote:
Originally Posted by railmeat
money is still money
And you should be thankful in this economy. :T
Here comes another "I make more money than you" pissing contest.Quote:
Originally Posted by railmeat
I make $5.50/hr picking up garbage, so what. Does that mean I'm not worthy of anything better?
I know 3603 will still "fog" even with pure distilled.
I know there is a post somewhere in here about a piece of 3603 placed into a cup of distilled water. A week later it was fogged. Remove from water and let it air dry, no more fog.
I think it is water absorption by the tubing that makes it look "fogged". I put a lot of heat intop my loop with only a PA 120.2 and maybe that affects this absorption rate :shrug: in comparison to those of you that do not notice this with pure distilled.
Mine always fog eventually.
For 2 years and 2 months (Dec. 07 to Feb 09) I ran the following loop:
Iwaki MD20RLZT (Polypropylene)
Cast red brass reducer coupling
Kynar (aka PVDF (Polyvinylidene fluoride)) plastic barbs / tee / couples
AquaXtreme MP-05 LE (nickel, copper, Delrin (Polyoxymethylene plastic))
Swiftech MCW50 (copper, Delrin (Polyoxymethylene plastic))
Nickel plated yellow brass barbs
Thermochill PA120.3 (yellow brass?)
Masterkleer 7/16" ID tubing (PVC, other?)
Distilled w/ PT_Nuke (CuSO4)
All components were cleaned/flushed with an OCD-level of clean - 3 sets of 18 hr soaks in vinegar/water solution with water flushes over 1 week for the radiator, as an example.
So a material breakdown of that is:
Nickel, copper, red brass, yellow brass, Polyvinylidene fluoride, Polyoxymethylene plastic, PVC, whatever else is in Masterkleer tubing, and CuSO4.
The entire loop was closed in a steel case with nil for external light. Here are my observations:
- Tubing began to cloud ~1 year into use.
- Only the loop clouded, not the stationary water in the fillport line.
- Tubing noticebly cloudier ~ 2 years into use.
- Fillport line still crystal clear.
I did have to top up the system every ~6 months - about 2 fl. oz. worth.
Math Warning: 6" roughly of the tubing (7/16") ~= 3.6 cubic inches of water. IIRC ~= 1.8 cubic inch to a fluid ounce.
Total water "consumption" ~ 1/3 of a fl. oz. per month.
When emptying the loop, the water was not cloudy, and the tubing remained cloudy even after flush & brush).
My Opinion: There is a reaction with the tubing, water, and light. My tubing clouded far slower than similar loops that were exposed to light (from my reading of the forums). The cloudiness was a result of water evaporating through the pores in the tubing, bringing with it various impurities resulting from the components in the loop - or, evaporation exacerbated by the pressure in the loop portion of the tubing as compared to the fillport line.
Final Thoughts: Cloudy tubing is an aesthetic issue only. If you absolutely must have clear tubing, find something non porous (:worship: $$$), or change your tubing every ~6 mo. (:worship: elbow grease). Also, the less you look at the tubing (less light), the clearer it will be (:rofl:).
The opinions expressed above do not reflect any expertise in chemistry, or maybe any science at all - someone else have at it.
-sfxs
Wow, dude, seriously, as Snyxxx posted at the beginning of this thread this has already been investigated:Quote:
Originally Posted by railmeat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marci
And seriously.. 2-3 pH?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marci
I have been running tests myself on Tygon R-3603 to see what was doing it and it has to be the tubing itself because I have tested pretty much everything that could be an outside influence and the damn stuff still fogged up. Thought the filter was helping but in the end it did not. I was using a 5 micron sediment filter to see if it was rad flux, metal corrosion or whatever. Did not work! Still fogged! I know the thread is a few months old but thought I would add to this anyway. Couple pics...
http://www.houseofottawa.com/test5/sys1.jpg
http://www.houseofottawa.com/test5/test3.jpg
http://www.houseofottawa.com/test5/filter2.jpg
Is the tubing still cloudy after you take it out and let it dry for some days?
Yes. Well the stuff from all the tests have not all been left out for more then 6 hours so far but yeah the stuff taken from the build to put in the filter has a white powdery type coating. It's a very fine film.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brodholm
Hmm, I took about 2 days for me before the tubing dried up. You could see on the sides first that it was drying. It was turning clear on the edges. And that tubing was only half a inch long.
That's very interesting! I also had my R-3603 getting foggy after 2,5 weeks of holidays in Småland ( ;) )...I thought it was due to the mixture of my Innovatec-protect stuff, but when I saw that thread I was like "wtf, it's not only me having that problem" ^^Quote:
Originally Posted by Brodholm
my masterkleer + distilled + silver didn't turn cloudy after 4 months of usage.
it did turn yellowish tho, but still clear. the last time i drained/filled in loop was about 3 months ago. i dont drain if i dont see any problems or change anything.
I used about 4" of tube per test. It did clear very much after drying. It is not like the tubing in a loop at all with the thin film on the inside. I am wondering if the pressure or vacuum of a loop has a strong affect in making the plasticizer leach out more or differently. But it did not matter on what liquid from Distilled water without anything to Distilled shaken from parts or with PT Nuke. It all fogged up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brodholm
Saying "I tested pretty much everything and it is the tubing that caused the clouding" doesn't tell us anything about your testing methodology.
Please tell us the process you went through to determine that this 1/4" of sediment in your reservoir is all just plasticizer. I am having a hard time believeing all that sedimant came from 4" of tubing unless that tubing is now 1/8" larger on its inner diameter !
Who are you talking to? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Z3VH
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadasius
You.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadasius
I never said anything like this at all. Hence why I was confused on who your were talking to. An if you want to know what I did then go here--> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...did-cloud.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by 3Z3VH
With all the frikking crazy equipment people in these forums have access to, why has no one taken a sample of the white clouding in these tubes and brought it to a lab to find out what it is made up of ? Once we know what it is made of, we can find out where it comes from.
That was the next step actually that I was going to do. Just got to find a lab that will do it at a good price now.
Feser Aqua - FA - Ultra Pure Water
Description
Feser Aqua - The cleanest Source!
We have done it again with an even purer type of coolant, Feser Aqua which is a Bi-Distilled water (2 times distilled) and specially designed for todays PC watercooling market.
If your seeking a pure non conductive coolant with no dye pigments to corrupt the solution then this is 100% what you have been looking for!
Feser Aqua is the cleanest source on the market today.
Feser Aqua or FA for short was filtered through 2 different processes of destillation, hence the term Bi-Distilled!
Feser Aqua has to first of all passed through the reverse osmosis system, and shortly after this into the downstreamed De-Ionized system.
The PH-Value is 2.0 – 3.0 and lies in the acid ph-range.
Link: http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=267
Link: http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=255
Link: http://www.dangerden.com/store/files.../ex-liq-75.pdf
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some Comparisons
Distilled water PH 7.0
Lemon Juice PH 2.3
Vinegar PH 2.4 - 3.4
Reference: http://extension.usu.edu/files/publi...wq_2005-19.pdf
Some One Screwed Up At Feser.
1. Reverse Osmosis is not a distillation process.
2. De ionization is not a distillation process.
Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purifie...e-distillation
Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverse_osmosis
Reference: http://www.freedrinkingwater.com/wat...di-process.htm
3. pH of distilled water is pH 7.0 and is thus neutral.
Feser's Advertising list's their water as having a pH 2.0 - 3.0. which is acidic.
The same acidity levels as either lemon juice or vinager.
This acidity level will definitely accelerate clouding of your tubes.
This needs to be corrected Feser!