you are doing cross shipping so it should not take more than a week to ten days once you complete the deal with abit.
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you are doing cross shipping so it should not take more than a week to ten days once you complete the deal with abit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
i am measuring at the point suggested here in the forums (in the actual mobo)
i will get them paid tonight and hope the board gets here in a week. I am going to the Kansas races this weekend but I need a Monday night project next week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
ok, was curious about how it was being measured.Quote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
Ace, that seems to have done the trick. :up: At least now I can start benching again, thank you! Weird thing though, if I set my memory divider in the bios to 1.25, then boot into windows, open uGuru and select my profile, it instantly locks and I have to do a quick power off, it's like it only want's to run at 1:1. I don't get it, in theory it should be running close enough to the stock speed of the memory (DDR-1066) 425 x 1.25 = 531.25 x 2 for DDR = 1062.5 :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Another thing I've noticed when playing certain games, they don't run at normal speed, it's like the game is turbo charged for some reason, I don't know whats going on.
Suggestions anyone?
This is my overclock...:D :D
I am considering this board to replace my asus P5K Vanila....The asus board works fine but I had an issue where it wouldn't boot 2 or 3 times no matter what I did....I had to borrow some cheap ram boot up with that and then stick in my Gskill HZ and be able to boot but besides that its rock stable and overclocks good for my needs....Seeing a few posts about asus P5K mobos blowing up with quad cores under load and i will be upgrading to a quad core whenever the games start taking advantage of it so I figured I upgrade to this abit board! Will it be compatible with my ram 2 x 1 GB g.Skill DDR2 800 HZ 4-4-4-12 ? Also does the whole heat pipe cooling system need a small fan blowing over it for more stability or is it fine as is ?
I can't believe some of you guy's temps/volts to get up there. Even w/ 2 less cores, my little E6400 needs more volts and gets hotter. :(
Is that the P965 board? If so I've read that's a common thing with that board; it won't boot up with RAM that uses voltage over the DDR2 standard. At least with the older versions/BIOS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Volkswagen
its a p35 board P5K Vanilla with latest bios
i think a few used GSkill and it was ok.
the problem with your ram, ATM, is it needing higher vdimm to operate....if i were to take an educated guess, i would bet one or both sticks have a defect in them, possibly in need of a RMA
hmm I guess that could be it then? I assume 1.8V is the standard for the mobo ram voltage and my rams specs are
Capacity 2GB (2 x 1GB)
Speed DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
Cas Latency 4
Timing 4-4-4-12
Voltage 2.0V - 2.1V
So that could be my issue right there then ?
gonna have to contact gskill and see what they say
Quote:
Originally Posted by Volkswagen
i think the upper number is the theoretical max....if they were working before at your initial boot up at default speed and now you have problems at default speed and vdimm then i would say the ram is the culprit.
thats the thing i had a dfi p965-s before the ausus p5k sold the dfi cuz of the annoying squeeling noise but the dfi booted every time straight out the box with the current ram I got....When I got the Asus P5K in it took me like an hour to get it to boot with my current ram so the ram should be fine its stable when overclocked and system is rock solid
Hey Ace my PWM temps are through the roof. I did the heatpipe mod, used a little MX-1 and tossed the thermal pad that it came with and have a 40mm fan blowing on it. I think maybe I tightened the bolts to tight. On load it's getting around 80+. What would you suggest?
Thanks!
Haah, I do share your gift of over tightening a bolt. :D Did you check for contact? What's your room temp, case airflow like? (sorry if you already posted)
And how much clearance between the pwm's and the sink guys? Typically I'll wipe it all clean w/ some 99.9% alcohol, then reuse the stock pad to ensure contact.
EDIT: Stacker 832...airflow's obviously not the problem. :D
thermal pads. I got 100 of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/Thermal-Pads-for...QQcmdZViewItem
I'm not that seller, I'm in florida, I just bought them from him.
I've not tested them yet and believe that they might just possibly be too thick. I'm going to order some of the 1.5mm version. If you anyone wants to buy some for cheap (75 cents for 4 pieces + shipping) I'll sell some of the 2.5mm ones. Tell me how they work. I'm getting both sizes just in-case.
ok you should have left the pad on the pwm. Iam one to speak on this, i left it off and over did it on torque on my first board, and it was screwed a couple of weeks later.. took a lil while to show up.
my new one has been humming along fine, minus a few minor things with going full bore to vista.
this board has some vdimm droop, my gskills need 2.125 to run 2.1, it will still sometimes droop down to 2.085~ under complete load..but is stable so this could be an issue, up your volts a little bit on vdiim,SB, and MCH a hair see what happens. go ahead and loosen the TRAS if u havent and see if that helps, leave 1t/2t @2T. i found it has no bearing on memory performance, amoung many others i guess. leave it at 2T just for good measure
80C should be ok for a bench, but if its hitting like 60~day2day thats too much. It should idle about 36-42 under normal room temps.
if you get a new board, dont rush to do the bolt mod, just see how it performs out of the box first. My rma PWM sink was perfect, was making very good contact, and i idle at 35C@ 77c room temp on the pwm/with 60mmfan. it peaks out at 65C under full load, which is normal. If u dont have good contact out of the box either realign the sink, or do ACE's bolt through mod, but more carefully this time
dont know if this has been asked elsewhere on this thread, but can anyone tell me if this board has the same power down/restart feature as the asus boards? i have the P5K deluxe and using a vapochill lightspeed as cooling
as cooling and its a nightmare tryin to save overclocked bios settings as the board completely shuts down before before powering back up again 2-3 seconds later. so i'm looking for a board that doesnt do that, and the abit caught my eye.
any help would be appreciated.:)
It does do that. Powers down and turns on in 2 seconds. But abit guru is your friend. Through windows = no need to shutdown. Instant overclock :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by pump101
Some bios settings will require the board to power down/restart... but Uguru can change most settings from inside OS (and whatever settings you shut down with will be saved to bios)... only settings I can think of off hand that may still require the power down/restart, would be changing cas latency on memory and multi (not sure about multi, I never change mine).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/new-b/uguru.png
EDIT: Alik4041 beat me to it lol
New drivers:
Intel Matrix Storage Manager 7.6.1.1002
http://www.station-drivers.com/page/intel%20raid.htm
REALTEK GbE & FE Ethernet PCI NIC (RTL8169/8110/RTL8139/810x/RTL8139C+ Serie)
http://www.station-drivers.com/page/realtek.htm
thank you...:)Quote:
Originally Posted by vailr
Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
hmmmm, i would say the heatsink is not sittling level on the mosfets....i pulled out my QuadGT board to re-do the PWM mod by switching out the plastic push pins with the nuts and bolts...when i remounted the heatsink, i did not make sure it was level on the "digital" pwm's...so...2 out of the 5 were not "even" touching the heatsink...i was safe for idle conditions but not for priming...and...in a matter of a few minutes, i burned the heck out of one of the digital PWM's...board is dead!:(
hopefully these ethernet drivers will fix my problem. Everytime I go on my computer, I have to plug the ethernet cable in a different ethernet connector. Neither of them are broken, but I have to switch from one to the other to the other to the other.... getting annoying. Not sure if it's my wrt54g - have it with ddwrt firmware so I don't know :shrug: Here's hoping these fix it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by vailr
it only powers down when you save new bios settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by pump101
most times you can use Uguru within windows to change a myriad of voltage, fsb and PCIe Mhz settings...the only reason you need to go into the bios is to change the multi, memory strap and cas setting...or...priority for a boot device.
memset works in windows as long as you have the right bios installed...one of the beta bioses prevents memset working in windows.
i'd say that is a router-hub problem not ethernet chip problem...which brand name router do you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
Linksys, wrt54g with a dd-wrt firmware.
WRT54GL, w/ firmware v23 SP2 (09/15/06) std. Both ethernet ports work fine in xp/vista w/ NIC driver 5.673.712.2007. It was the latest on realtek's site as of a month ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
So they just drop out? What if you disable one? You're probably not running a software firewall, right? Does it happen @ stock? If other pc's are fine, you can probably eliminate the router...
i have the kind of the same issue it is not everytime but every now and then my port stops working for some unexplain reason (note that i have several other computers in the house and when it happens i have no problems with any other computer just the IP35)Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
i am using a dual AMD Opteron with ClarkConnect as my Gateway/Firewall/Router so i do not think is router related tho i could be wrong, the fact that when it happens all my other systems work ok led me to believe to be related to the board just my .02
forgot to mentioned i'm using Kubuntu Linux not windows
i had the internet connection drop offline on me using a belkin and linksys router...i've had this happen on other mobo's...usually a reset of the router would cure the problem...you can also do a right click on the computer monitor screen that is in the right hand corner of the task bar and then, click on repair...that refreshes your IP address which i think windows is changing it or making it non-functional..that should get back your connection...i am talking bout XP OS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
Thanks guys. I guess I'll first try loosing the screws a bit to see if that helps, if it doesn't maybe I'll try putting some thermal pads on as the one poster suggested. It's just gonna be a PITA to pull apart my whole watercooling system and everything else to fix my problem :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Are you gentlemen using a PCI card on the mobo? I recall reading somewhere about the network controller interfacing with the PCI bus.Quote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
Is it possible you're getting some feedback on the PCI bus causing your network controller to drop connections?
for me, i am only using a PCIe raid card, no PCI cards...i have an occasional drop of the internet connection...my solution is like said in my above post...do a quick "repair" via the computer montor icon by right clicking on the monitor and selecting that option...usually, that brings back the internet connection.Quote:
Originally Posted by chawks2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
Quote:
Originally Posted by new-b
many thanks for your response guyz
Ace-a-Rue, many thanks for heatpipe mod works great idles 40c 58c load,
i am not using a pci card at allQuote:
Originally Posted by chawks2
i'm using the onboard audio and a 8800GTS video card, i just got my ARECA card a couples days ago i have not got around to install it yet
btw chwaks i'm in Lacey "GO HAWKS"
that's great!:up: ...adding a few small fans will help you bring the temp lower.Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion
all you people who have the abit ip35 pro is this something you would recommend to a person with a quad core or if you had to do it all over would you still get this board only asking because im in the market for new board
Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
i did remove my pads since i did not know better, i was concerned about overtightning the screws i guess i did ok since board is running fine (knock on wood)
I will give you my answer. Even though I am waiting on an RMA replacement for my first board, yes. I would recommend the IP35 Pro. It handles a Quad beautifully. Even with some screwed up power circuitry, I was able to get a 50% overclock with my G0. I can't wait to see what the replacement can do, without the voltage issues I had, that are documented throughout this thread. The issues are my board only related I want to stress, and why I requested the RMA. Even IF I could not have gotten the RMA I would have probably just ordered another IP35 Pro. The performance to $$ ratio is just to good to look elsewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by louie101086
what voltage problems are you refering to i havent read whole thread
I haven't read the whole thread but has anyone come up with ideas on how to keep the stock PWM cooling while upgrading the NB and SB with aftermarket coolers? It seems like cutting the heatpipe is probably a bad idea, I was considering bending it into some kind of super mosfet cooling heatpipe tower then hardmounting it ;) has anyone tried that?
I have had problems trying to run higher voltages, vcore, mch, ICHIO. When I do I get instant shutdowns. I first figured psu problems. But after switching to a PCP&C 850 the problem persisted so I wnt ahead and RMA's the board. BUt even with the voltage limitations I was able to get to 3.6g with my Quad, Prime stable. I have followed a bunch of IP35 Pro threads and I have not run across the issues I was having. That is why I say it was a my board only issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by louie101086
Just reached 3.6 after lapping CPU and HSF. I don't know if 1.45v is worth it because I was completely prime stable @ 3.2 - 1.300v. So far, 3.6 is not prime stable, can only do 5 minutes or so but temperatures never reach that high with my maximum application use so it's stable in actual use. Anyways here's cpu-z :D
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=247475
http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/9869/captureoo1.jpg
I have never had my network connection drop. :shrug: My QuadGT was a whole different ball game.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Huge win against the Bungles, hopefully they can keep it going. I was @ Super Bowl XL - what a shame :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
I am going to be installing two more gigs into my board. (total of 4GB) Is it a good idea to reset my over clock to default and then install the extra RAM, or should I see if the 4GB will be stable at my settings right now?
Sorry this is new to me. Don't want to explain to the folks how I burned hardware. :(
Vdimm - 2.10 500mhz @ 5-5-5-12 2T
DDR2 VTT - 1.05
Vmch - 1.37
It's unlikely, unless you have pricey RAM. My 2 x 2G Pats freaked out, then my beauty reset itself and the love started all over again.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
i have the same setup except i use GL, with tomato firmware
its the drivers, i had the out of box realteks and my lan ports would crap out after going out of sleep. using the newtest drivers from aug fixed the issue.
After I installed the drivers I had the same issue for like 5 minutes. It wouldn't turn off, but it just slows down to a halt. But now it seems to be fixed. I guess the drivers wore in :D
[QUOTE=Alik4041;2455838]Just reached 3.6 after lapping CPU and HSF. I don't know if 1.45v is worth it because I was completely prime stable @ 3.2 - 1.300v. So far, 3.6 is not prime stable, can only do 5 minutes or so but temperatures never reach that high with my maximum application use so it's stable in actual use. Anyways here's cpu-z :D
is it 1.45 after droop? mine droops to about that with 1.50 set in bios@3.6
once i hit 3.7ghz i need 1.55bios to keep it stable. my chip isnt the greatest
try setting 1.5 u should be able to pass prime with that
I just bought the board but I'm curious to hear the opinions on the most recent beta bios. This thread is just so long that I'm curious if some of you would be kind enough to chime in.
So far I'm liking the board. 4x1gb had no issues on boot and the heatsinks on the board seem to be on tighter than most people are reporting.
Nelly, OP
didnt know if you noticed but new chipset drivers came out on sept 24th.
for vista&xp
its strange though, on intel's site it is under p35 chipset, dated for spet 24th
but in the readme says this
* Product: Intel(R) Chipset Device Software
* Release: Production Version
* Version: 8.3.1.1009
* Target Chipset#: X38 & 3200/3210 Chipset
* Date: July 26 2007
installing it seems to be fine, no issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
oh come on!...tell us how you burned your hardware up...we all have done it!...it's the nature of the beast; overclocking forces you to push everything to the limit...you tinker and sometimes, it just goes poof!:D
always a good idea to reset your board back to default...now, if you are wondering if all 4 sticks will work at default speed, i would reset the clock to default and then set your Vdimm to 2.1v (save that setting) and then let it post to the first screen before shutting it down to install the extra two sticks.
don't forget to pull the plug from the power supply and let the power light fade away before yanking or installing any memory!
Thanks :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
After having the IP35 Pro for over a week now, I'll comment on some of the problems I'm having with this board. First off, I've tried 3 different G0 stepping Q6600's(2x L727A903's & L726A820) and the first A9 wasn't bad, it did 3.2GHz(400x8) @ 1.30v stable(only Primed for 1+hr cause it was the first overcloked speed i tested) but I couldn't get 3.4 or 3.6GHz stable, no matter how much voltage I threw at it. Now the A8 was crap, 3.2GHz required almost 1.40v to keep stable and the current A9 I'm running is at 3.15GHz(450x7) because anything above that, it can't keep stable. As for FSB overclocking, the first A9 booted into windows @ 475FSB but I couldn't get it stable and the other 2 won't even boot @ 475FSB. So either I've had 3 crappy G0 Q6600's or this board is not overclocking my quads very well. But on a side note, I did try my old e6300 that did 495x7@1.35v on my DFI P965-S and it maxed out at the same 495x7@1.35v(looks like my e6300 has a wall @ 495) but this board did require .1v less on the memory to keep stable(2.15v vs 2.25v), so that was a plus. So I'm now debating on RMA'ing this board for another IP35 Pro, trying another different stepping Q6600 or hell, even trying the quad on my DFI,
What memory are most of you guys using. I had 2 gb og Gskill HZ that my BX2 decided to kill for me. So Now that I'm looking to this board in particular, I was wondering what ram are you guys getting the best overclocks on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcu
simple question; did you disable C1E (and EIST)?
EDIT:..did you do the heatpipe mod?
Yes they are disabled,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
what about the heatpipe mod?
No bolts but North & South bridges have AS5 on them and system temps are 43/50c, PWM are 50/70c & CPU temps are 35/50c,
are you using the pads that came with the PWM heatsink?
Have you tried adjusting the other voltages? Sorry if that is a noob question for you. :( What divider are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcu
Latest BIOS?
what do you mean by not getting it stable?..are you talking about P95 and how much time did you run it until it errored out?Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcu
what were voltages set when running P95?
I tried the heatsink mod and removed the pads off the mosfet sink as well, replaced with Y-500 thermal paste. Temps were 40C idle and I haven't seen it go above 50C yet. Although, this is with a dual core not quad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Btw, what's the most stable BIOS version so far?
Is there anyway to update the BIOS without having to use a floppy? I don't own one and have not needed a floppy with previous motherboards in order to flash the BIOS.
Please tell me there is another way. I tried using the FlashMenu through the uGuru but it says this motherboard doesn't support FlashMenu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger30Q
you can use a USB thumb drive or flash drive...download this HP prog to set your drive up to boot off from...works very well...use the FAT32 formatting.
http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=197
I have just done this and know it can be a little confusing so I thought I'd try to give a little guide for using a USB key to flash the bios. This is assuming you have basic knowledge of the bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger30Q
1) Place your USB key in your machine.
2) Go here, download the zip file and follow the guide. First thing you need to do is make your USB key a bootable device which is what this guide shows you how to do.
3) Next place Bios files on the now bootable USB key, also look to Ace's guide in his sig for additional info or just click here.
4) Once your USB key is all ready, re-boot your machine, go into the bios and here's where it get's a little tricky because there are a few options that will need to be changed.
5) First you need to change the "First boot device" option to USB-HDD
6) Next under "Hard Disk Boot Priority" you'll need to move your USB key to the first in the selection using your +/- keys on the number pad (if I remember correctly :rolleyes:)
7) Next you need to go into your USB settings and look for "USB Keyboard support Via" and change that to Bios from OS. Also somewhere in here there is an option to change the USB key from "Auto", to HDD, switch this to HDD.
8) That should do it if I remember correctly. Next all you should have to do is reboot the machine then at the "C:" prompt type: RUNME.BAT and follow the on screen prompts, also look to Ace's guide for further info.
Note: I will clean this guide up a bit and post pics this weekend when I have the time. This was all written off the top of my head so if you see something that I have missed please let me know. Also this was done on XP 32bit, I'm assuming it wouldn't matter for Vista, correct me if I'm wrong.
Is the m629b11 BIOS available on Abit, the latest B04 that everyone is using? I can't seem to find this piece of info here.
Thats not a beta but if you want to try some betas for that board you can get them here>>http://forum.abit-usa.com/showthread.php?t=122393Quote:
Originally Posted by axemanrio
Has anyone ever done the F6-install (AHCI) with an external floppy drive? Is it even possible, or do you have to use an internal?
are you talking about XP or Vista install?
I'm having the same problem. Nlite doesn't stream the drivers correctly for ich9r. I want to go back to xp but I can't install on the raid volume. I was wondering if you can make a CD which acts like a floppy drive so you can install the drives w/ F6. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Quote:
Originally Posted by RAdoxx
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAdoxx
you can try to the external floppy with XP but the Pro bios might not present the external floppy as an internal floppy...with vista, it should work ok...you can try to set the external floopy as a hard drive within the bios for vista or just leave it in "auto" and let vista figure it out.
i have both OS's installed...XP has a difficult job at descerning if an external floppy is hooked up...a lot of it probably depends on the bios.
external floppy wont work=/
best bet is get the 5 bucks together and buy a floppy. they still come in handy!
with vista its no issue, any media can be used, USB/cd/dvd/files on an other drive etc
one of the best things about vista
Not w/ this board, but yes. It depends on the board and the USB floppy tho. I picked up a Memorex/Teac from Fry's that worked fine w/ a P5B Deluxe for F6 and Bios updates wo/ too much hassle. I could not however get it to work w/ the DFI P965-S. Also, the USB Floppy must match up w/ a PID that XP's installer will recognize. Here's a photo to explain:Quote:
Originally Posted by RAdoxx
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/jodiuh/teac.jpg
But in the end...
This guy's got the right idea. I've had much pleasure w/ an internal floppy cause it simplifies everything. Hell, pair it w/ a media reader from the egg and you'll get even more use out of the bay.Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
Several users on abit forums have posted they used NLite to slipstream the Intel RAID drivers for XP and the ICH9R and it worked without issue.
If you're talking about XP raid setup, you have to extract the proper files from the Intel setup (iata76_enu I think) and then use nlite to slipstream them in. I did that and works flawlessly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
I'm getting a lian li pc-a05b and don't want to destroy the front looks completely :PQuote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
Could always connect a floppydrive temporarily just for the XP install though ;)
For now yes I am but when I have some time, I guess I try modding the heatpipes to see if I can get the PWM temps down a little,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I've adjusted every voltage possible with no luck but I have noticed for the Quads, upping the VTT voltage was necessary to get it stable and I have tried both 12 betas and the official 11 BIOS and they all overclock the same for me,Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
Yeah, Prime95 but at that FSB, 1-3 cores dropped within seconds of starting but at 450FSB with the first A9, 1 core dropped about 2hrs into it no matter how much voltage I gave it but with the current A9 I have, I can prime for over 24hrs. As for voltages, here's a screenshot of my current voltages with 4GB(2GB required .05v less for the memory)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/7cb5f7015d.jpg
with 4Gb of memory is a problem with overclocking, that is if you are populating all 4 dimm slots!...you are just not going to get a high stable overclock with all 4 slots used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcu
have you tried overclocking with only 2 slots occupied?
as for those voltages supporting 450 fsb in P95, they look to low...i can run 400 fsb pretty well on stock voltages...don't know if it is P95 capable...but...at 475 @ 8x = 3800 Mhz...i need the below voltages to do P95, and, that is with only 2 sticks of memory.
do i keep it there...NOOOOOO!...i am not folding or playing any games...so...i notch it back down to support an idle condition or for a slight demand on the cpu...this P95 stable is far more overrated than it should be...if you get an hour, my hat is off to you...besides, its a waste of energy to go beyond one hour and all along you are stressing the cpu and memory to extreme heat and voltages...the only person i see in need to P95 for 24, 48 or 72 hours is a person who is going to fold 24/7....then it makes sense to know ahead of time the capability of the puter before beginning a folding episode.
Damn straight. I bought a floppy dirve that has a media card reader built-in to it (made by Matsumi). Great little upgrade, especially if you make use of a media card reader. ;) Plus us die-hard geeks can still make use of floppies for BIOS flashing and various bootable diagnostics.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
http://st1.risunok.net/19227/P93038928.jpg
ppl am i right with vdrop mod for ip35-e ?
g- ground as i think...
i have 2 questions
is the vdroop mod for the ip35-e the same as the ip35 pro
and will an audigy (first audigy) sound card be better that the onboard sound
thanks for any suggestions,
Hmmm...I got a total of 8 files, maybe I missed some. I'll try it again. So far I have 2 coasters :(Quote:
Originally Posted by tpdinh
Once again my lockup problems return. :(
Here are my voltage settings.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...Untitled-2.jpg
The high Vcore is for the high fall of Vcore during load. I am running a quad at 3.6ghz and a stock 8800gts. Other specs in my sig.
Could the problem be the power supply?
I will try default setting now to see what happens.
EDIT: Not to mention that counter strike source also will lag and then shut down by giving me a error. (something to do with calculating the correct power of 2's)
Temps are around 60c under load.
Bios 14 only at abit forums in the beta bios section http://forum.abit-usa.com/
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j7...Screen1200.jpg
Updated IP35 Pro bios to 14.
Working OK.
how is the bios for you?....the same overclock?...memory issues?Quote:
Originally Posted by maxwedge
Would a set of 4 1GB crucial balistics work on this board?
Also, what mem runs best on this board, Crucial or G.Skill?
i've got 4x1GB of the Crucial 10th Anniversay running @ 500Mhz with only 1.9v (5-5-5-15) ... my other boards needed far higher voltage to the ram for the same speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by davewolfs
edit (added ram timings)
Zero problems here but then I had no issues with 11 either. We're trying to find out whats up with this bios because it's not on any abit website but it was pulled from a brand new IP35 Pro v1.1 that a user was talking about. We got him to copy it with flash menu and send it to us.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
We have a thread in the mod section to try and get our admin to get us more info about it.
I have another problem that may be the root of all my problems. I can't pass any super pi calculations without getting a error message. It will run for a couple seconds then I will either get the "Not Convergent in SQR05" or "Not Exact in Round". I am running at stock speeds on memory and cpu. I am also supplying the recommended voltages and timings.
Big thread :eek:
I assume the basic advice within the thread also holds true for the vanilla IP35? :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk
Dunno. Where did you get this info? The IP35-E and IP35 Pro share the same power control IC. If you have the schematic diagram of IP 35 Pro and IP35-E, then you should be able to identity the proper nodes.
Running Vista? I will occasionally encounter problem running Vista with SP. Restored my WXP image file and all is well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magic Chief
I am using xp. SP2.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
that usually means you are undervoltaged for the cpu...crank it up about 3 notches....might also have to tweak the memory...but...try the vcore first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magic Chief
I just received my TRUE + Yateloon SH120 + MX-2. Took a stab at 3,915mhz. Ran fine until I tried SuperPi. I could only get to 3.6 stable with my CNPS9500. Will try to get it stable and post some more :)
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=249466
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
my best P95 was at 3.8Ghz...and...the voltages had to be high.
i will be surprised if you get P95 at 3.9Ghz...i got up to 4.2Ghz; stable enough to do email and surf the web...that was it!