I'm trying the Ports 3-5 strategy for my RAID-0 to see if that helps.. a lot of people mention this. *sobs* Bahhh.. I hate Intel :p:
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I'm trying the Ports 3-5 strategy for my RAID-0 to see if that helps.. a lot of people mention this. *sobs* Bahhh.. I hate Intel :p:
this is why people should invest in an add in raid controller card. using onboard raid is a joke.Quote:
Originally Posted by devilhood
I had the same issue on the DFI...it's the suck.Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
I use an Areca on the P5K and if the Maximus shows some real promise I'll run a RAM Disk on it for benching :) That makes HDD RAID look silly.
Hey Guys I have been reading around that I read that Asus as put this MB on EOL. Is this true? And if it is, should I even brother looking or buying this board. I don't want to buy this board if it is already at the end of line and Asus will not provide any support for it. Your Thoughts?
P.S. Fusion
It's not EOL in-terms of support, it just depends on if you want it for the Fusion Block and software bundle.Quote:
Originally Posted by vegettoxp
The SE board uses the same BIOS as the non-SE board.
They are phasing out the SE version because it was originally marketed as a 'Limited Edition' board geared at serious enthusiasts.
Which one would you recommend? I'm not very familiar with RAID controller cards.Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
Just want to make sure. Are both hard drives the same models? No just the same brand and size. Also are you using a SP2 copy of XP? I had Blue Screen problems for my NF3 mb in RAID. I had to use older drivers to get it to work. See if you can find some alittle older.Quote:
Originally Posted by kimandsally
This can't be right.. Can it? BIOS 0602
Probe??? WTF
Desperate to set multipliers on my MB, but have no idea how to do it, I've done everything I can think of, but without multiplier adjustments, my new QX9650, may as well be a QX6700, as I'm totally stuck on the x9 multiplier and the MB, which at this point is the bane of my existence as it will not let me choice the multiplier, is there any software that can set this from Windows, as then at least it would lock in BIOS and I could get somewhere, currently I hit an FSB wall at 435 and thats just plain wrong with a QX9650 CPU, what I really wanted was 400x10 or 4GHZ, but thats just not possible if the multiplier will not set in BIOS.
Thanks,
ERIC
Hi the older drives were different, so I ordered 2 brand new 500GB Samsungs that's the ones I've done most trying with bought them last friday and never managed a single install until Vista this afternoon.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnTRD
My 2 copies of XP are both SP2, I'll try to find some older drivers to see if that might fix it.
Thanks.:)
buy another. i love mine...Quote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u
i would suggest that you spend some time reading the rest of this thread!! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by intothefantasy
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimandsally
You running Vista on this RAID that your trying to install XP on? I'm not sure if you can have 2 OS on one RAID.
i think most are suggesting that you stay under 47*C on the NB... fwiw.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiesum
huh? i was planning on a dual boot with mine... xp64/vista64Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnTRD
Maybe you can I not sure.
well, since the two drives just act as one drive, i don't see why you couldn't partition it and write the two os' one on each partition...
Hi guys
I´ve got one question about Maximus Formula (non-se) vs P5K Premium "Black Pearl".
Which board should i go for from my Asus Commando?
My setup is 2 x Raptor 74gb raid0 + 4 x Seagate 320gb 7200.10 Raid0.
Both of them matrixed into 2 slices / each.
Xeon 3230 (ES) G0
EVGA 8800GT SSC
X-Fi Fatal1ty
4gb Crucial BallistiX PC8500
I´ve been reading about some raid issues for both boards.
Maybe the best way is to buy me a raidcard for those 4 x Seagate instead ?
The price difference between the two boards is not a problem.
update on re-seated and water cooled NB
well, under full load, my NB has dropped 14*C... and my NB is .04v higher then it was when i last tested it. not sure if it would drop more but take that for what it's worth. i used the hair dryer method and very lightly twisted a screw driver under it till it easily came off. almost no pressure applied. now, cleaning off all that concrete they used as thermal paste was a b*tch. but hey, for that much of a drop, i can't complain one bit. i'll be picking up my raptors in about 30 minutes so we'll see how that goes. hopefully i won't have to buy a RAID card...
areca cards are the fastest at the moment. I'd suggest you get at least 8 ports if you want to make it worth it. the 12port and up cards have upgradeable cache memory. but with the current bioses on the MF you might want to wait.Quote:
Originally Posted by devilhood
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=164419
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
Let me know if you get it OCCT RAM full stable now
Jonny, my Maximus Formula is now stable @ 450MHz FSB! I've run the OCCT Beta 1.2 Auto 30min test with it 4 times, as it's more of a blend test. And I've run an hour long 1024MB test on it...get this...with my window closed, so case temp of about 27*c and the North Bridge didn't break 50*c!!!
I finally achieved this by using the Anandtech settings for 450MHz, and they worked right off the bat!!!
I'm going to save this OC Profile now and push higher. I'm idealy looking for either 435x9 for 3.915GHz or 475x8 for 3.8GHz...
I'm loving this board again now, seems (touch wood) rock solid stable with these bios settings!!!
I've spent two weeks nearly full-time trying combinations and stability testing and have yet to reach a satisfactory state. Maybe someone could give me some advice?Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
Key Config Points
Corsair 620HX
Q6600 G0
Thermalright Ultra-120 xtreme with AS 5
2 X 1GB PC Ballistix PC-8500 Tracers (and another set non-tracers)
Sapphire Radeon HD 2600XT 512MB
WD 150GB Raptor HD
I'm on my second board -- The first would either not boot at all (all lights on motherboard lit up) or fail while in BIOS (no operating system ever installed).
NewEgg made RMA fairly easy.
On this second motherboard, I've gotten much further and installed Vista Ultimate 32-bit, but not until after about a million power cycles. Even minimal changes to BIOS from stock settings require me to cycle the power not only after the change, but in order to POST after each full shut down from Vista.
Stability is very important, as such I am only looking for a very modest overclock (3 GHZ Max). However, there are very limited changes that I could make that didn't require me to power cycle after each shutdown before I could boot again.
I've resigned to the fact that this motherboard may require a power cycle after most BIOS setting changes, however, I find it unacceptable to need to reach to the back of my PC and cycle the power each time I want to boot.
The limited overclocked BIOS settings that did not exhibit this behaivior included CPU Level Up to QX6850 giving me my 3Ghz with the MB Auto Volting the CPU at 1.34-1.36. On Auto, RAM however was set at DDR-800 with 5-5-5-18-42 and vDimm of 2.0v as reported by PC Probe. The RAM seemed way to conservative for the Ballistix and my bandwith and latency settings were pretty bad.
Switching to manual and changing RAM to DDR-1066 at with Auto, or any timings require the power cycle.
At DDR-800, I am able to make some changes without encountering the Power Cycle required issue including reducing the timings to down to as low as 4-4-4-10-25 while remaining memtest and Prime95 Blend 8-10 hour stable. (vDimm remains at Auto - reporting 2.00v by PC Probe).
I was willing to settle for this when I tried OCCT RAM mode for final stability testing. It consistently fails between 28 and 38 minutes.
I tried to give the vDimm more volts, but whenever I set vDimm at 2.10 (2.20 real) or above in the BIOS the system requires power cycle after each shutdown. 2.08 equal to 2.18 real and OCCT still fails in the same time range.
After 100's more combinations and cycles, I decided to test OCCT at stock.
OCCT still fails at stock 2.4Ghz with DDR-800 5-5-5-18. With any combination of the Ballistix.
I've even tried going back to 0505 BIOS from 0701, but my results are even worse there.
The system is consistently autovolting the NB at 1.46. Any change and there is either a failure to post or the power cycle issue comes back.
I have read every post in this forum and can elements of the issues I'm facing, however most seem to be encountering these issues at overclocks of 3.6 and above.
I am about to crawl up into the fetal position and cry :shrug: or get medieval on this board. Over two weeks of nearly full-time troubleshooting and testing tyring to achieve OCCT stability and I'm ready to trash this thing and get a Dell.
Does anyone have any ideas before I do that? Brief testing of the CPU and RAM combinations before OS installation shows it to be at least memtest stable even at 3.4 Ghz and DDR2-1150 on air (I didn't try higher than that) but the power cycle issue is there after OS installation. Could it be the motherboard again? I don't know if I can endure the pain again of another RMA, installation and testing cycle(s).
If I have to do that, I think I'll just use Prime95 stable at 3.0Ghz, DDR2-800, 4-4-4-10-25 settings for a little while until maybe a new BIOS does better for me, or if I notice any real world instability at all I'll figure out what replacement MB or Dell to get next. (OCCT isn't stable even at stock).
im pretty much identical to you right now in terms of setup. I just made 3.8ghz stable too. I ran 4 hours large ft prime and 30min occt ram only test together for stability. what are your bios settings? I think im going to shoot for 3.9Quote:
Originally Posted by kup
With those settings...Code:450FSB Quad-Core BIOS Settings
CPU Feature
Ai Overclock Tuner [Manual]
OC From CPU Level Up [Auto]
CPU Ratio Control [Manual]
Ratio CMOS Setting: [8]
FSB Frequency [450]
FSB Strap to North Bridge [400MHz]
PCIE Frequency [110]
DRAM Settings
DRAM Frequency [DDR2-1199MHZ]
DRAM Command Rate [2T]
DRAM Timing Control [Manual]
CAS# Latency [5]
RAS# to CAS Delay [5]
RAS# Precharge [5]
RAS# Active Time [12]
RAS# To Ras# Delay [3]
Row Refresh Cycle Time [42]
Write Recovery Time [6]
Read To Precharge Time [3]
Read To Write Delay(S/D) [8]
Write To Read Delay(S) [3]
Write To Read Delay(D) [5]
Read To Read Delay(S) [4]
Read To Read Delay(D) [6]
Write To Write Delay(S) [4]
Write To Write Delay(D) [6]
DRAM Static Read Control [Disabled]
Ai Clock Twister [Strong]
Transaction Booster [Enabled]
Boost Level [0]
Voltage Settings
CPU Voltage [1.450v]
CPU PLL Voltage [Auto]
North Bridge Voltage [1.61v]
DRAM Voltage [2.16v]
FSB Termination Voltage [1.54v]
South Bridge Voltage [Auto]
Loadline Calibration [Enabled]
CPU GTL Reference [0.63x]
North Bridge GTL Reference [0.67x]
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage [Auto]
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage [Auto]
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage [DDR2_REF]
SB 1.5V Voltage [Auto]
455MHz seems to be having trouble...might be vCore too low, I haven't adjusted it for 455MHz...?
Testing Stability...
Q6600 @ 4.13GHz 1.47volt
Transcend AxeRam 800 @ 1100 5-5-5-5-25 2.12volt
Maximus Formula SE (NB without water for now...)
Vista 32bit
Single Stage By Unseen
It seems that my Q6600 needs less vCore with Asus Maximus than Abit IP35Pro...With 1.47v in Abit IP35Pro I was @ 4.0GHz 24/7...Max FSB with Abit 522(x9@4698MHz, SS)
Max FSB with Asus not tested yet...
Post 2417 & 2418
Any know about these temp problems I see? I thought it was only a 0701 problem.
Just putting in my 2 cents too.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
I used the hair dryer method too and it's the best way to go.
As for removing the paste .... OMG that stuff is like concrete!!
What I did was heat it up a bit (just about 10 seconds with the hairdryer) and then using a razorblade, scrap it off. It came off very very easily. Then I cleaned the remainder off with Arctic Clean.
Be careful to place the razor FLAT on the block when scraping off the goop, otherwise you risk scratching the chip/block.
Another NOTE:
Anyone who tried reseating, did you notice that the Sink on the Southbridge was Not making any contact with the chip???
The epoxy on the SB was untouched.
Even when I reseated, I removed it again to check and the AS5 was just as smooth as when I first pasted it on!
if i remember correctly, my SB was touching the heat sink... what are your voltages and temps for the SB on a stable setup?
on a side note, i'm having issues with the blasted RAID... i can't even get the freaking drivers installed lol. i'm such a noob. anywho, my keyboard or system seems to freeze up before it even starts to install. i'm going to try the OEM drivers and see if maybe that helps. this is freaking annoying though.
make sure if you are not using and/or not providing a driver for the jmicron controller that it is disabled in the bios. i have had blue screens and hanging installs due to this. if you load the driver it should be ok without disabling it during install.
Don't remember but it doesn't matter now as I am replacing the entire assembly with Thermalright HR-05 and HR-09. I should get them tomorrow or MondayQuote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
Once I removed the assembly to reseat, I just decided 'what the hell' :)
Hmm I'm confused shall I install my thermalright hr-05 the seocnd I get the board or should I install the motherboard first to check if it works then install the heatsinks, I'm saying this because I am lazy :) but is the warrenty voided if you remove their nb and sb heatsinks?
i made a floppy and am using the F6 thing... you're still suggesting that i disable it? for some reason i'm thinking that my floppy's are bad... they're old. i mean, after all, who the hell still uses these damn things. time to recognize the usb drive.......Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyea
Whats better right now, Maximus SE, Maximus Non-SE or the P5E
i'd give it a run first. then, if everything is alright, use the hair dryer method to remove it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mondocool
maximus se... just because that's the one that i own. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Warboy
se/non se, just depends on what you want to do with it. pretty much the smae board, one is WC while the other is AC. p53... no clue.
Well, wouldn't the AC one do better in cooling for Air cooling people, since WC has those holes in the NBQuote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
If you are using the ichr9 and providing a driver for that you are ok on that account. but if you have the jmicron enabled, but are not proving a driver via the f6 method at the same time, you should disable it. i have experienced issues when i tried to install without the driver with the jmicron enable. ie bluescreen, system hangs etc. my recommendation to anyone is that if you dont use it, disable it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
wouldnt hurt to try right?
if the non-se one uses concrete as a bonding agent for the NB cooler like the se does... there won't be a difference lol. honestly, i don't think there would be much of a difference between the two. that is, unless, the non-se has better thermal compound used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warboy
i'm really lost with this whol freaking thing... reason being is that all my freaking floppy's are dead and i'm trying to figure out how to do it on nlite. grrrrrr... this is making me mad like a grizly bear... could you tell? :p: :rolleyes: :DQuote:
Originally Posted by crazyea
I bet that's it! If you need to have jmicron enabled for your PATA DVD drive you need to give it BOTH the ICH9 and jmicron drivers. :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyea
turns out im not stable at 3.8ghz , i blue screen every now and then
whats are the average voltages for these values towards stability around 3.8ghz
Northbridge voltage
Front side bus termination voltage
I have the non-SE. It's the same thermal concrete as far as I can tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
@.....>Quote:
Originally Posted by ssideratos
This board consistently undervolts the ram at reboot. Iīve too been through ALOT of powercycling it demands a dram volt adjustment to
boot properly, since it gets stuck on DET RAM. Probably it tries to boot with 1.8 default or something, thatīs why you can sometimes boot without power cycling with cheapo ram.
Even changing the dram voltage and then rebooting via power cycle allows a POST with your new bios settings, so yes this board and its current bios versions has this flaw.
Had this issue with the commando as well, even with later ībios versions.
The JMicron drivers are specifically for RAID/AHCI setups only.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clump
If you are just using PATA DVD drives on the JMicron controller then you do not need a driver.
i didnt even realise that this mobo didnt have eSata ports. :P
But since there is no option for ACHI on the pata in the bios, is it not enabled by default?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssideratos
Quote:
Originally Posted by kup
Looks like many fails OCCT RAM at stock too. But, it is a good idea, try keep your OC then wait and see. If it never fails, you're safe, if you have wired errors from time to time, than this damn board is broken or unstable, or maybe the whole X38 thing. Everywhere, it sounds that the X38 is very tricky on RAM settings and brands. Maybe this board is really unstable even at stock when you ask too much of it. In any case, all the P35, P965 and many eVGA boards are rock stable with OCCT in RAM mode. OCCT, like any benching program, has nothing to do with the NB. It only send large 1024Mb data to CPU to calculate it. So, if it bugs, there's a bug somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZilverPhish
I just tried the last bios 1223 on my P5B deluxe. My overclock (see my signature) was again rebooting under OCCT in RAM mode. Back to 1221, it is rock solid. So yes, ASUS bioses are real crap. After 2 years of producing the P5B deluxe, they're still able to produce bioses as stable as sh*t.
As ZilverPhish noted, he found an explanation why it fails on stock. So, I'm sure, there's always an explanation when a software make your OS or system fail. And the problem is serious if it impacts a whole system and not only the causing program
So, if you really don't care, ignore OCCT in RAM, but just keep it in mind if by case you have wired errors (often induced by RAM)
Under Vista 32, it should be rock solid, or it's hardware issue/bios issue
http://www.izipik.com/images/2007111...__OCCT_RAM.jpg
For me, under bios 1223 (last final and previous 12xx except 1221, my system will reboot under OCCT in RAM mode)
On the Gigabyte X38 thread, look at this post, and the two ones next it
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=603
Looks like there's something wired on the X38 boards, P5E thread is also picky... even on stock settings
it's not that hardQuote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Ha...ation1/11.html
if that doesn't help try this
http://www.google.com/search?q=nlite...en-US:official
Sounds like what was happening to me. OCCT kept failing just between 25 and 35 minutes (though I didn't have any POSTing issues...).Quote:
Originally Posted by ssideratos
In my case though I only passed after downloading the Beta latest version from a link someone posted here.
I then realized by accident that I was using an older version of OCCT and that may have been the issue.
Sure enough when I run the Beta, I'm 4+ hours stable in OCCT. And when I run the other version, I fail.
So, if you haven't checked, what version are you running?
see if you can find a SYBA SD-SA2PEX-1E PCI Express SATA II Controller CardQuote:
Originally Posted by crazyea
it's a 1x pci-e card that does esata only, and it uses the same jmicron chip that that all the motherboards use to get Esata port(s). I got one and it works in the black 1x pci-e slot.
in the US newegg has it for $12.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16816124002
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggIma...124-002-06.jpg
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggIma...124-002-03.jpg
http://www.ocbase.com/download.php?fileext=betaQuote:
Originally Posted by Majoram
Thanks :) but I already have that.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
I was just pointing out the problem I had with the older version and how it sounds similar to ssideratos problems.
Hi, thanks, do you know if there actually is another rev number, or are they still 1.02g?Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
Cheers...
Chris
Why not? It seems normalQuote:
Originally Posted by ShawnTRD
Still 1.02g for SE board and 1.03g for non-SEQuote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u
Hi, thanks for that Majoram, I think I', going to order a replacement and just hope I get a good'un this time. Before I mount it back into the case I will re-seat the Fusion block, I was thinking of using this http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...d=57&subcat=27 what do you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by Majoram
Thanks again...
Chris
Quoted from your link:Quote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u
Damn, looks serious though. Is it really impossible to unsolder such a paste?Quote:
any components you attach together with full-strength Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive will stay attached forever.
I hope you were joking.Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicsallen
I don't know really about the epoxy but you definitely need to reseat with something. Maybe someone else here would be able to better advise?!Quote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u
I've used real heavy duty epoxy for electronics before and yes it is tough to remove without damaging something.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
As for AS5 Epoxy specifically, I don't know how strong it is, so I can't really comment.
Though I've never read of someone using it and then trying to remove it.
I seriously doubt it will "melt" like the original paste used though.
If you wish to experiment, some people have noted a 50/50 mixture of the epoxy and normal thermal grease is semi-permanent and can be removed.
Suggestion: get 2 pieces of metal (old heatsinks?) and try out a 50/50 or 70 (epoxy)/30(thermal grease) mixture or whatever other combo until u get it right.
Was ASUS probe showing the same temp?Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnTRD
Sounds evident, but didn't thought at it. Many thanks for the tip. Asus could make a realy waterblock with its proper fixation instead of a crappy base needing epoxy to be soldered. I thought if I get one I can use it directly on the NB, but it will be than unremovable if I want to sell/RMA the board. So, if someone wants to remove the stock heatsink and replace it, the WB is unusable :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Majoram
No I tried for a week to install XP and never managed to so I tried Vista which works fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnTRD
Yeah it looks like they both showed around 82c to 84cQuote:
Originally Posted by Majoram
np good luck! Perhaps let us know what you find is the best mixture.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
Was the temp constantly at that level or did it just jump up for only a second or two?Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnTRD
does anyone able to boot with 500x7?can post me the settings?? i cant boot with it
:up: Can you give us your bios settings to achieve this OCCT stable OC?Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
For what do you need a PCIe-eSATA-Controller?
Just use another connector/ bracket.
I am using this thing:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812226003
sometimes it's the CPU FSB limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by intothefantasy
Hi, replacement motherboard, epoxy glue and some tubing all ordered. I just hope this one is better than the last, if it is I'll be returning my original for a refund. However it might be worth hanging onto it until the SE is out of stock, might make a killing ;)
ChrisC
I gave up tweaking with this BIOS. I'm waiting for the next one. Maybe that'll help me get past the 440 FSB-wall. I have another problem now. When I use Everest to monitor my temps, I see that my NB temp is 50*C (Idle). How can it be this high??? I'm running the NB at 1.6 V Is this too much?
Thanks!
Bios 0505 ram stability test with read static control ENABLE:
http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/..._2ghjgfvhj.jpg
:)
Unfortunately, I can't use Probe or AISuite to see my temps because they don't start:mad: It seems that more people have this problem...
Thank you everyone who helped me to get RAID working, I've finally found out what the problem is, the wife played a big part in it.
I don't have a floppy drive in my PC but have a new one in a draw just for things like this, I didn't realise that I actually had 2 in the draw one which was broken (brand new) and another brand new one, I was about to try the other new drive when she said I'm sure that was from Web-systems a local crappy PC store, every single thing I have ever bought from them has either been DOA or died very soon after.
So I took the floppy out of the wifes desktop and it worked straight away no glitches just the way it should have been.
I can't believe how much crap it has given me, if only I had remembered that I bought the floppy from them it would have been the first thing I tried.
Anyway A real big THANK YOU to everyone it is awesome the amount of people on this forum who have taken time to help me, clump has even PM'd me to help, I feel part of a very nice team.
my max fsb is 475...how abt u guys? anyone over 500? or 500? for q6600 i mean
i figured it out on my own last night... but for some reason when it reboots for the second part of the install it says that files are missing every time...Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
also getting an error on one of the drives when it shows the raid boot screen. not sure what's up with that but it's kind of irretating.
yeah, there is... it's the non-se. some monkey thought it would be funny to p*ss off all the SE owners by posting a pic like it actually was the SE. afaik, there isn't another one for the maximus.Quote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u
just play around with your board till it ends up around those in windows... everyboard is different so this might not even work with somebody else who has the exact same parts. if there are specific settings you'd like to know, let me know...Quote:
Originally Posted by culex44
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimandsally
this is a great forum, huh? i love it here, one of the best i've been to. congrats on the raid install... i'm having similiar glitches myself. so i'm going to go get some floppy's in a few minutes and try it with the regular install disk instead of nlite. i'm also a little worried that i have a error'ed raptor, but that's yet to be determined for sure.
i don't think anybody with the q6600 has gone over 500... but i can't remember for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by intothefantasy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Majoram
They stayed constant at these temps.
I hope yours is just a floppy issue, I suppose there's not much else it can be, but as you said yourself you thought it was a floppy issue, crazy really because most people use floppy for BIOS updates I personally hate floppy's as in the past things like this has happened but it was so long ago I tend to forget.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
Keep us posted and good luck.:up:
I never use floppy's cause of that very reason. The disks just go bad with age and the drive fail fairly often at the wrong times. XP is very old now going on what 7 years old I think. I've never installed MCE but I would hope it would allow you to use USB for raid drivers.
@ 1.6v on NB I get 50* ish idle temps. I'm @ 1.47v (1.52v on PC Probe) NB and my NB is at 47* idle and it gets to about 56* after 30 minutes of full load. I think my NB isn't making good contact with the heatsink. Got a few tubes of MX2 coming so when it gets here I'll be reseating the NB and SB sinks and see how my temps are after that.
Every time I fail OCCT it's when vNB gets a small voltage spike. I'm going to pull out my DMM here next week and check my Power from the PSU to see if it's fluxing or if it's the boards voltage regulators. I would still like to know what I can mod to up the output of the boards 3.3v and 5v regulators. If it's the PSU I'll definitely be doing something to fix it but I highly doubt it's the PSU as everyone is showing the same voltages. I've got almost all my setting green now and stable @ 400x9. I'll post up what I've got here very soon for settings.
Depending on your definition of stability, I ran the new OCCT beta referred to here and ran it in RAM mode (slider all the way to the right) and it lasted just under 11 hours before errorring out with a Code 4.
This was with my E6600, 465 FSB (x8 multiplier) and using 1.55V for the CPU. All other voltages were set one notch above green.
It's going to take a few more days to find the lowest voltage's I can run at 400x9. It is actually getting more stable as I bring voltages down and of course the decrease in case temps. I've been doing this all with the door on and the case where it will always sit. (which is a far from optimal placement for exhaust ventalation)
I'm thinking that once I find my lowest voltages for this clock it will be actually easier to go higher as I would be prone to bad OC's from having to much voltage on certain parts. Gone are the days of just vCore/vDIMM/vNB for OCing. :( I miss those days as it was a lot faster to get to lowest attainable voltages.
Hey gangsters,
does anyone know if I can use my Swiftech Storm v2 WITHOUT the Intel clip? I can't seem to find it and I am ready to finally put the WC back... :(
If I can't where the hell can I buy this $0.02 worth of thing?
THX!
PS: currently running 3.6GHz (8x448) on air but it's not fully stable - I have to put water on the chipset as well as on CPU to reach stability and move up to 4GHz... BTW 701 seems to be working fine here.
Until now, I've just modify vcore and vdimm and let everything else in auto mode. I'm stable OCCT for 30 min test at 3.8Ghz with 1.48v bios (0505) but no way at 3.9Ghz although I increased vcore until 1.575v (OCCT induced a reboot after 15 min of test with this setting).Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSamurai
I think I'll try to manage with vFSB, vNB and GTL settings
First just raise voltage for NB, that should do the trick I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by culex44
Yeh, I doubt it is your PSU. Those spikes are either related to the NB heat (as you're on the rather very hot side) or the PWM heating too on the motherboardQuote:
Originally Posted by Maglin
Code 4 is for CPU errors. But it could be yet an error in RAM sometimes. Maybe a small vcore increase could help you... Give Prime95 small FFT or OCCT CPU mode a try as they are heavier on CPU. If unstable, than a notch on the vcore and you're rock solid. If not, than maybe same issue as others on the NB-RAM subsystem of this boardQuote:
Originally Posted by KRich
Noob OC'er here, Well not actually noob, been OC'ing since 486 Days, but I haven't OC'd in a long time. Last OC was a 2.4c. Anyway, I need some assistance anytime I try to start bumping settings in manual mode, It hangs on reboot (The LCD Poster sits at DET DRAM). So this is what I was able to do. I set the Auto OC to Crazy, and I can post just fine and get back into bios, then I bumped the Memory clock to 1167. If you guys could take a look at my screenshot and let me know where I should go from here, because I know it is probably severely overvolted from the crazy setting. Thanks very much in advance.
http://www.teamzfz.com/kev/3.5Ghz.jpg
When it hangs on DETRAM their is something not right with you RAM settings. It can either be to high/low vNB, to high/low vDIMM, and to tight of ram timings and or to high a RAM speed. I like to test my ram with no OC and see how far it can go and do all the timings tweaking w/o OC so I have a good RAM base line that I can use. Then ensure you don't go over that when in search of your highest OC. I get DETRAM hang ups all the time when I'm tweaking ram. It's almost always to high a setting or tight of timings.
I've just stumbled on something with my vNB voltage ripples. I'm currently working on getting my lowest FSBT and I've dropped it a lot and my vNB ripples are still their way less ripple. I'm really loving the logging of the 1.2.0b OCCT. It's been the biggest help in finding my issues with instability. Here are my vNB at 1.47 FSBT and and 1.27 FSBT.
1.47 FSBT (BIOS)
http://members.cox.net/maglin/2007-11-14-14h00-VNB.png
1.27 FSBT (BIOS)
http://members.cox.net/maglin/2007-11-16-10h23-vNB.png
how are you guys getting the fuzion waterblock off? i have not fired up the mobo yet, but i want to remove the north and south bridge and replace the tim with some as5.
i also want to remove the fuzion block and reapply with as5 in the middle, and as thermal epoxy...
i just dont wanna break anything...hints please...
MY EYES! :)
My god what a long, yet informative thread. Thanks to everyone who has posted their experiences and settings.
My E6850 will be here in the next few days and I will begin my new build. After reading all the posts here I don't think I have seen one single person post their BIOS Template for the E6850.
I know Raja did an incredible review @ Anandtech but couldn't BIOS settings there either!
So I figured I would finally de-lurk and post asking for those of you with stable E6850 settings on your Maximus if you could possibly share your settings?
Thanks in advance!
- Stan
The NB/SB is held on with screws and pins so I don't really think that AS Epoxy is necessary. I know this thread is grown pretty large but for the new comers it is a really good idea to read the whole thread. Their is some really go info scattered throughout this whole thread.
If you just read a few posts up using a hair dryer for 20-30 seconds to heat up the NB and then twisting and pulling to remove the HS. If it isn't moving then apply some more heat. It will come loose. Once off apply heat to sink and then use a razor blade to cut off the epoxy/glue/thermal compound that Asus uses.
Also make sure you SB sink is actually touching the SB as someone noted his was not.
The funny thing was that I had them all set to Auto, I wasn't even OC'ing the ram at that point. I was just trying to OC the proc. So Start trying to bump the Ram with the default CPU clock? When i goto NBStrap 400 that's 1:1 Ratio correct? So in order to increase the Ram i'll have to start dropping the multiplier so i dont OC the CPU at all correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by Maglin
NBStrap set to 400 and DRAM Frequency set to the middle setting. at 400 FSB it will be 800. So it will be 2x your FSB. That will be 1:1. You are just overclocking the RAM to high leaving it on auto. I really don't like anything set to auto.
Edit: Also avoid the urge to change a lot of settings when finding your OC. That will give you more headaches than you want. Just take the time and adjust one thing at a time. Of course ram timings usually have serveral settings changed when you are adjusting things. Everyone has their own method to finding their OC. I used to use Prime95 for 10 minutes. Now I use OCCT for 10 minutes and then tweak the same setting again (usually going down in voltage) going down in 2 incraments until i either error or it won't post. If I get hang up/no post then I turn puter off and then restart as sometimes the settings don't go into effect properly and a full power down (cold boot) is required and it works just fine. Once I get an error I go up one and run a 20 min test then move onto tweaking another setting. It's time consuming but has helped me with stability greatly on this board.
That is what I am going to do :up: I've had the board for a week now, so still plenty of testing and tweaking to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
So sorry for the complete noob question, but how would I go about just overclocking my RAM. I'll probably figure it out when I get home but I thought it was just by raising the FSB! :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Maglin
try raising the NB, FSBT, and maybe the CPU PLL.Quote:
Originally Posted by culex44