**Official ABIT IP-35 Pro Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

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Originally Posted by GameGuru

Anyone know if there's a Vdroop pencil mod for this board or just the solder mod. I was going to attempt the solder mod but holy donkey turds batman, talk about soldering to the size of pencil dot. :eek: How are people pulling this off.

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I suggest you don't follow AIK's decision to use such a crap gun as he must be special and truely has "Balls of Steel"
For your help:

I had to use this with the supplied solder (it had the finest tip I could find): http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

I also used this maginfying glass. Yet the job was still scary:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
I just noticed you already bought it. You must center the glass about 3 inches from the target and your eye must be right on the lens to see clearly. Use a headlamp like this too see clear. I used this, I think from Lowes http://store.karstsports.com/enlhe.html. It was $13

I for the life of me cannot get the G.SKILL 6400HZ to post - I keep getting a C1 error and it is pissing me off as they can do 1200 at 2.4v and I know that they are good. updated to latest beta bios FYI

Go back to the official recent Bios:)

since there are 2300 posts - I am going to ask this question and then search, are there known issues with cpu-z as my computer locks up after I load it (the latest) no matter what the settings. like taking a SS of my benchmarks and opening up CPU-Z for info.

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Originally Posted by Brother Esau

Go back to the official recent Bios:)

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thats a no go on the memory and i set the BIOS mem voltage to 2.2v and it was a no go:down:

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

since there are 2300 posts - I am going to ask this question and then search, are there known issues with cpu-z as my computer locks up after I load it (the latest) no matter what the settings. like taking a SS of my benchmarks and opening up CPU-Z for info.

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Yes with v1.38 & below use v1.41 http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php.

CN

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Originally Posted by C-N

Yes with v1.38 & below use v1.41 http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php.

CN

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i am using the latest and still getting trouble:shrug:

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Originally Posted by GameGuru

\Maybe I was using the wrong size of wire :shrug:

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The BEST kind of wire for this mod is simply an IDE wire. That's what I used. They are small and are PERFECT for the job :D I think I'm gonna create a little guide for everyone on how to do this mod the easier way so I can save you all the headache ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scwam

I suggest you don't follow AIK's decision to use such a crap gun as he must be special and truely has "Balls of Steel"
For your help:

I had to use this with the supplied solder (it had the finest tip I could find): http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

I also used this maginfying glass. Yet the job was still scary:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
I just noticed you already bought it. You must center the glass about 3 inches from the target and your eye must be right on the lens to see clearly. Use a headlamp like this too see clear. I used this, I think from Lowes http://store.karstsports.com/enlhe.html. It was $13

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This is another option. 19.95 from Hobby Lobby. I plan to practice abit (no pun intended ;) ) before i try this. Like you said, damn thise things are small.

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Originally Posted by Alik4041

The BEST kind of wire for this mod is simply an IDE wire. That's what I used. They are small and are PERFECT for the job :D I think I'm gonna create a little guide for everyone on how to do this mod the easier way so I can save you all the headache ;)

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I will look forward to a guide. I like "easier". I have never attempted a hard mod before. Pencil, yes, on a X800 video card and that was succesful. But I have to do something. This board has enough droop to make it necessary.

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

i am using the latest and still getting trouble:shrug:

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yeah even the newest cpu-z 1.41 crashes my box (xp64 4GB) within a few mins.... at o/c or default speeds

bios 1.1 & uguru 3.04

Amigan

edit to add version #'s

Back to my "8.2" enable ATX Powersupply problems. I Installed an EK waterblock last night and after leak testing all night (no leaks), I reconnect all the power cables and she won't POST. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening? The only thing left for me to do is buy another PSU. Ive tried clearing the CMOS and taking the battery out, but that didnt even work this time.

thanks

scott

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Originally Posted by GameGuru

Thats funny because I went and actually bought a magnifying glass here from Radio Shack just to do this mod as well as my 8800GTX but damn even with a magnifying glass it's so frikin small. Maybe I was using the wrong size of wire :shrug:

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Hate to side-track this thread, but what's the 8800GTX mod you speak of?
Thanks. ;)

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Originally Posted by AstroCreep

Hate to side-track this thread, but what's the 8800GTX mod you speak of?
Thanks. ;)

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Probably this volt mod.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=157093

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

I for the life of me cannot get the G.SKILL 6400HZ to post - I keep getting a C1 error and it is pissing me off as they can do 1200 at 2.4v and I know that they are good. updated to latest beta bios FYI

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do u have 4gb? either way take all the memory out. do a full clear CMOS. Then try updating to 11 offcial bios with these handles. Example

awdflash m629b_11.bin /cd/cp/cc/py/cks/sn/wb/e

power down, if u have 4 gb just boot with 2 sticks..set your voltage. reboot put the rest of ur sticks in. it should work

i had the C1 hang for the first time on a brand new ip35. that cleared up the issue

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Originally Posted by strange|ife

do u have 4gb? either way take all the memory out. do a full clear CMOS. Then try updating to 11 offcial bios with these handles. Example

awdflash m629b_11.bin /cd/cp/cc/py/cks/sn/wb/e

power down, if u have 4 gb just boot with 2 sticks..set your voltage. reboot put the rest of ur sticks in. it should work

i had the C1 hang for the first time on a brand new ip35. that cleared up the issue

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Not trying to make you look bad but...... NO SPACING BETWEEN SYNTAX'S IS NO GOOD!


When Flashing from DOS and using Switching/Parameters I always flash twice this way everything gets written over twice and produces a cleaner Flash with less chance of anything not taking properly and less chance of failure! Remember Do a FULL Clear Cmos before flashing! That means remove the Battery, place the Jumper to clear Position, and Move the Clear Cmos Switch on the back of the Mobo to clear position and DO NOT set you're Ram Voltage to man spec just load optimized defaults once you power on after Clearing Cmos Before Flashing! Make sure you use a PS2 Keyboard for the Flash too!

Like This>>>>


What I find that works best when Flashing Bios is these switches for this board in this order and a added switch /E which returns you to A:\ Prompt at that time I repeat the Process and FLASH a second time to make sure that all Parameters were Overwritten and Updated properly, which in return results in a cleaner Flash!

AWDFLASH.EXE M629B_11.BIN /CD /CP /CC /PY /CKS /SN /WB /E

After second Flash Power Down Manually and REPEAT the Clear Cmos Process you did prior to Flashing ...Please :up:

Spincycle...This board seem to have problems with waterblocks cos from what ive seen its peeps with WC thats having problem of boards not booting..... Guessing code 8.7? Thought I was overtightening them before but not so sure now cos Im on my 6th board..... Seem to happen a few days after I flash the bios so Im sticking to the stock one for a while....

As for the voltmod, I find placing a couple of layers of electrical tape just below the solderpoint really helps... it also makes sure you dont let the same wire touch both sides of the resistor.... I used a cheap $10 iron but it came with a fairly pointed tip, I think the most important thing is to have a clean tip everytime you use it.... and never let the gun touch the resistor too long, the solder should melt as soon as you touch it.....

Thanks Luihed. I'm still not sure why waterblocks instead of Air cooling would cause a "8.2" ATX PSU error. I do have the CPU waterblock fairly tight on the MB. I'll try loosing the screws a bit and see how that works. Report back later. Anyone elese have any ideas?

Vdroop mod guide in the works, but I'm still hesitant whether I want to take my motherboard out of the case, remove the mod, then re-attach it :rolleyes: I might just use ms paint or something to show the easier way of doing it :cool:

Does anyone have the TR Ultra-120 in an Antec P182 case? I was thinking, would you get lower temps if you mounted the heatsink horizontally with the fan under it blowing upwards?

This way hot air wouldn't blow straight on the PWM heatsink, and at the same time you would remove hot air from the heatsink on the northbridge.

Changing the pressure on the CPU block didnt change anything? At this point it looks like im going to RMA the board unless anyone has any other suggestions as to why the "8.2" post code keeps occuring. I really like this mobo and would rather not RMA the board.

Its weird but if you do a search on people having issues with thier IP35 not booting, a majority of them are running water.... When this happened to me I dont even care what the post code is cos Ive had 8.7 twice 8.3, 9.9 and C1..... Love the mobo as well but one more time and Im gone....

What divider works best for this board? I know that the strap changes with the divider, but which one is better for the 1066 and 1333 strap? :)

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Originally Posted by SpinCykle

Back to my "8.2" enable ATX Powersupply problems. I Installed an EK waterblock last night and after leak testing all night (no leaks), I reconnect all the power cables and she won't POST. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening?

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did you disable fan monitoring & shut down on low rpm for the CPUFan header?

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Originally Posted by Brother Esau

Not trying to make you look bad but...... NO SPACING BETWEEN SYNTAX'S IS NO GOOD!




Like This>>>>


What I find that works best when Flashing Bios is these switches for this board in this order and a added switch /E which returns you to A:\ Prompt at that time I repeat the Process and FLASH a second time to make sure that all Parameters were Overwritten and Updated properly, which in return results in a cleaner Flash!

AWDFLASH.EXE M629B_11.BIN /CD /CP /CC /PY /CKS /SN /WB /E

After second Flash Power Down Manually and REPEAT the Clear Cmos Process you did prior to Flashing ...Please :up:

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whatever! iam lazy. but yes when doing the actual flash you could use spacing.

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Originally Posted by Heidfirst

did you disable fan monitoring & shut down on low rpm for the CPUFan header?

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Thats a good question. I would check it but I cant even get the computer to POST yet alone boot into windows. I do have a CPU Fan I could plug into the Mobo just to see if thats what causing the problem. Thanks for the help.


Edit: Tried plugging in a CPU fan into the header and im still recieveing the 8.2 post code error

Any thoughts on this one Ace?

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Originally Posted by luihed

Spincycle...This board seem to have problems with waterblocks cos from what ive seen its peeps with WC thats having problem of boards not booting..... Guessing code 8.7? Thought I was overtightening them before but not so sure now cos Im on my 6th board..... Seem to happen a few days after I flash the bios so Im sticking to the stock one for a while....

As for the voltmod, I find placing a couple of layers of electrical tape just below the solderpoint really helps... it also makes sure you dont let the same wire touch both sides of the resistor.... I used a cheap $10 iron but it came with a fairly pointed tip, I think the most important thing is to have a clean tip everytime you use it.... and never let the gun touch the resistor too long, the solder should melt as soon as you touch it.....

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I think your on to something lulhed. I dont use WC on any area of the board. But this board seems very senstive to FLEX. I had to rma my board because i over did it when i did the bolt through mod for the heatpipes, iam postive that is why my board was being flakey. Ive since done the mod again, withless torque, and all is fine..flex is non existent.

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Originally Posted by strange|ife

I think your on to something lulhed. I dont use WC on any area of the board. But this board seems very senstive to FLEX. I had to rma my board because i over did it when i did the bolt through mod for the heatpipes, iam postive that is why my board was being flakey. Ive since done the mod again, withless torque, and all is fine..flex is non existent.

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Maybe time for a RMA and the purchase of a backplate to stop the flexing of the board. Really wish i could figure this problem out. Ive loosenedd the CPU WC block screws as much as possible and still no go. :(

Edit: going to check for a grounding issue somewhere in the case. maybe that could be whats causing the 8.2 error code, i highly doubt its the pcp&c

need help
i keep getting CODE 90 cycling to 99 and continuous rebooting everything was working fine then i shutdown the computer and turned it back on and this started thx for any suggestions.

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Originally Posted by neonflx

need help
i keep getting CODE 90 cycling to 99 and continuous rebooting everything was working fine then i shutdown the computer and turned it back on and this started thx for any suggestions.

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Normal shutdown? What were you doing before you shutdown? did you install any drivers, firmware, etc.?

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Originally Posted by neonflx

need help
i keep getting CODE 90 cycling to 99 and continuous rebooting everything was working fine then i shutdown the computer and turned it back on and this started thx for any suggestions.

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ah yes this happened to me today as well.

do you happen toh ave a waterblock or phasechange mounted?

i got the 90 code after i finished up some dry ice benching.

when i tried to boot it up again on water it worked for a bit then crashed and kept giving me that dang 90 code.

i let the board dry out a bit longer with a fan blowing on it and after a while i got the C1 error which i can easily fix.

board is now up and running.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by strange|ife

do u have 4gb? either way take all the memory out. do a full clear CMOS. Then try updating to 11 offcial bios with these handles. Example

awdflash m629b_11.bin /cd/cp/cc/py/cks/sn/wb/e

power down, if u have 4 gb just boot with 2 sticks..set your voltage. reboot put the rest of ur sticks in. it should work

i had the C1 hang for the first time on a brand new ip35. that cleared up the issue

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2x1GB sticks I set voltage with my patriot 6400llk and then swap out memory and that doesn't work and neither does clearing cmos and unplugging all power then restarting after a bit - I know the sticks are good but what am I to do:shakes::mad:

ON 11 BIOS - BACK from the latest BETA BIOS - nothing helped now cpu temp is not registering in BIOS or uGuru in windows though coretemp works:shrug:

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Originally Posted by Alik4041

The BEST kind of wire for this mod is simply an IDE wire. That's what I used. They are small and are PERFECT for the job :D I think I'm gonna create a little guide for everyone on how to do this mod the easier way so I can save you all the headache ;)

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Just what I needed Ailk4041, thank you :up:. The IDE wire did the trick. Quick question though since this is the first time dealing with VR's. I turned the thing as much as I could clock wise before I soldered the wires on, is this right?

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Originally Posted by shimmishim

ah yes this happened to me today as well.

do you happen toh ave a waterblock or phasechange mounted?

i got the 90 code after i finished up some dry ice benching.

when i tried to boot it up again on water it worked for a bit then crashed and kept giving me that dang 90 code.

i let the board dry out a bit longer with a fan blowing on it and after a while i got the C1 error which i can easily fix.

board is now up and running.

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ok i don't want any one to :rofl: at me

here is what happened i was pressure washing my fence outside even tho is not directly in my window i believe some mist could ahve gotten in there it is a remote possibility but that is the only thing i could think of since the system has been rock steady since day one, i took the mobo off and put some fans on it to dry it and see what happened tomorrow


and yes i am watercooling tho i believe it was the mist from the pressure washer however remote it might seem thx for the feedback

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Originally Posted by Johnny Bravo

For all who think they need it :-

http://www.itsjohnnybravo.com/Overcl...tos/vdroop.jpg

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Originally Posted by GameGuru

Just what I needed Ailk4041, thank you :up:. The IDE wire did the trick. Quick question though since this is the first time dealing with VR's. I turned the thing as much as I could clock wise before I soldered the wires on, is this right?

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Glad I can help with the IDE wire :) That isn't the recommend way to do the mod. You're supposed to measure it with DMM BEFORE you solder it on. Now you will not be able to read how much resistance is on it. No worries though. It's probably around 0 right now if you've turned it all the way clock wise. Turn it back counter clock wise 2/5th of the way (not 2/5th a turn). In other words, if you have a 15-turn vr turn it back clock wise 2/5th of however many turns your vr has. So 2/5 of 15 would 6. So you would turn it back 6 turns. That should get you where you need to be. Then you can fine tune it with a DMM between idle and load to get it where you want. :up:

If I'm not mistaken, clockwise lowers resistance, counter clockwise increases resistance.

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

2x1GB sticks I set voltage with my patriot 6400llk and then swap out memory and that doesn't work and neither does clearing cmos and unplugging all power then restarting after a bit - I know the sticks are good but what am I to do:shakes::mad:

ON 11 BIOS - BACK from the latest BETA BIOS - nothing helped now cpu temp is not registering in BIOS or uGuru in windows though coretemp works:shrug:

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hmm why dont u try running the board outside of the case, use a box. and just lay the antistatic bag down under the board. use only one stick of ram. And reflash the bios if u can post at all, with the parameter switchs that we posted earlier, dont know what else really to tell you. have u tried another psu?

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Originally Posted by strange|ife

hmm why dont u try running the board outside of the case, use a box. and just lay the antistatic bag down under the board. use only one stick of ram. And reflash the bios if u can post at all, with the parameter switchs that we posted earlier, dont know what else really to tell you. have u tried another psu?

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would it make a difference if the HZ was an early model - not the recent ones - I bought them about a year ago at about 340 USD

I doubt it is the PSU - for that I am sure I will play with it for an hour or so and get back to you

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Originally Posted by Alik4041

Here are the pictures. Just thinking about how hard it was to get the job done with that solder iron tip and 2.4mm solder make me want to scream! BAH! :brick:
I used an IDE wire for the mod. It looked much cleaner but I guess it didn't work :(.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali018.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali017.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali016.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali015.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali014.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali013.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali012.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali011.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali010.jpg

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This board has a nasty vdroop??

where does the other end of the wires go?..sorry for my ignorance

They are going to the blue 1kOhm variable resistor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/new-b/Ali010.jpg

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

would it make a difference if the HZ was an early model - not the recent ones - I bought them about a year ago at about 340 USD

I doubt it is the PSU - for that I am sure I will play with it for an hour or so and get back to you

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Mine are as old as that, 4Gb at 900 1T cas4 no problem.

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Originally Posted by Alik4041

If I'm not mistaken, clockwise lowers resistance, counter clockwise increases resistance.

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That's going to depend on which legs they've used. I prefer to have clockwise increase resistance, more logical to me.

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Originally Posted by SpinCykle

i highly doubt its the pcp&c

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So do I from a power POV, just doing a quick head count. My 510 SLi is running the quad at 3.8GHz, 4GB ram, 5 HDD, 9x120mm fan, 8800GTX@660/2200, et al. And the voltage hardly moves at all.

Well I hate to say this but i think it is the PSU. I just grabed a POS Antec 400W PSU sitting in another computer, hooked up on essential stuff to boot and she booted pasted 8.2 and ran a series of other codes then stoped on 7F. I didnt have a monitor plugged in at the time so i just hard powered off after it stayed at 7F, which im assuming is the bios. I didnt want to run the computer on such a doggy old PSU but it did pass the 8.2 power sequence. Looks like im going to get a new PSU. Now to see if the PSU really is bad im going to put it in my second desktop to see if she boots. That should confirm the bad PSU. If the other pc boots then i will try to boot the new comp. w/ PSU out of the case to see if there is some possible grounding occuring while the PSU is mounted inside the TJ07. Maybe one the the leads on the PSU cables is touching the metal frame of the case.

Report back later.

Scott

Edit:

Pulled PCP&C out of the new computer .... tried booting w/ PSU out of case .... no go, 8.2 error code still. Swaped PcP&P into old computer booted w/ no issues. Im deff. confused on this one.

Ok could someone with knowledge of electronics please explain the whole Vdroopo mod please? I believe this would help a lot of us noobs messing with VR's and soldering. It would be much appreciated. And thanks for all the help already :up:

So for me I'm just putting together my build, the board hasn't even been turned on. Could someone please explain how to measure the resistance before you solder and then after? I'm using this http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
Options are:
OHM's 200, 2K, 20K, 200K and 2M
DC options 2V, 20V, 200V and 500V
AC 200V, 500V

Heres a pic of how I did the solder, I used the middle and bottom legs of the 1kOhm VR and it's a 20 turn.

Thanks for all the help guys :)

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Originally Posted by new-b

They are going to the blue 1kOhm variable resistor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/new-b/Ali010.jpg

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thanks

Got her up and running. It was deff. the PSU causing the problem. Im now the owner of a Silverstone 850W mod. PSU.

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Originally Posted by SpinCykle

Got her up and running. It was deff. the PSU causing the problem. Im now the owner of a Silverstone 850W mod. PSU.

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You can send the bad one back to PCP&C to get repaired/replaced; I think they have a 5-year warranty.

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Originally Posted by AstroCreep

You can send the bad one back to PCP&C to get repaired/replaced; I think they have a 5-year warranty.

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Yup I'm going to do that. Its really weird though, the PSU will boot my second desktop no problems. Maybe the PCP&P just didn't have enough "umph" for the new rig. Now back on topic, I did purchase a 1K ohm varriable resistor today while @ frys electronics. Don't have the courage yet to start soldering onto the mobo.

Gameguru, set it to 2000 ohm then check resistance... If you turned it all the way to one side, then youre going to get either 0 or 1000 ohm... set it to ~650 ohms and remember which way to turn to increase / decrease ohms.... after you solder you wont be able to read the resistance...

Remember, lowering resistance will decrease vdroop.... Ive given up on this board and when I took out my vmods, I checked the resistance and it was only 50ohms.... not saying thats where it should be but just suprised it was that low....

This issue has been flagged to CPUz... if you start uGuru first and then CPUz 1.41 the system will lock after 1-2 mins... run CPUz and then start-up uGuru and all runs OK :)

Another item that appears to be incorrect with CPUz 1.41 is the Command Rate - always reports 2T even though set at 1T in BIOS which is also confirmed by Memset :confused:

These boards are getting better ... although I am not fully sure about the v12-2 beta BIOS... still cannot complain ;)

498x9

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

i am using the latest and still getting trouble:shrug:

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Hi all,

Nobody have watercooled (chipset and mofset) her IP35 pro?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ncsa

This issue has been flagged to CPUz... if you start uGuru first and then CPUz 1.41 the system will lock after 1-2 mins... run CPUz and then start-up uGuru and all runs OK :)

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THANKS A LOT!:up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpinCykle

Got her up and running. It was deff. the PSU causing the problem. Im now the owner of a Silverstone 850W mod. PSU.

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just goes to show you that even one of the best in the industry have PSU's that go bad...i hear one to many posters, who can't face the music:D, say it CAN'T be my PCP&C power supply because it is "the" best one made in the industry!;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HiS

Hi all,

Nobody have watercooled (chipset and mofset) her IP35 pro?

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SURE, some have done it!..."luihed" did it but he doesn't like the board anymore so he's going to junk it!:shocked:

i personally love the board except for my USB drive screwing up the flash routine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue

just goes to show you that even one of the best in the industry have PSU's that go bad...i hear one to many posters, who can't face the music:D, say it CAN'T be my PCP&C power supply because it is "the" best one made in the industry!;)

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is that toward me? I said I doubt it was the PSU because I am able to use different memory just not the 6400HZ(but didn't state that) - yes I tried sticks separately too ... a stick of G.Skill 256MB DDR2 533 boots though whenever I change memory I must unplug mobo and reset cmos and take out battery:down: :down: :down: :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue

i personally love the board except for my USB drive screwing up the flash routine.

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I'm on the fence about it as I stated above about the memory and it does clock my E6850 well though I am now starting to miss my 680i as I know that board "like the back of my hand" <- maybe I just have to give this board some time ;)

well guys, i might try the mod but i will practice on my "now" dead QuadGT board...burned up one of the digital PWM's...long story but i didn't do the mod correctly on the PWM heatsink so it was not sitting level on the 5 PWM's...when i went for a big overclock with decent vcore, it smoked that one pwm into heaven.:p:..couldn't get to the PSU kill switch fast enough as i smeeled it burning.:D

the reason i was fooling with the QuadGT was another bad flash on the Pro...luckily i did the hot flash before i screwed the board...LOL:yepp:

i've come to the conclusion that the usb flash drive was corrupted...i used a standard FAT table to format it and that might had something to do with "why" factor...so, i formatted again with FAT32 table this time around....haven't tried it yet.;)

even though the flash said it was successful, i could tell something was not right...to long of a lag time between the last bar showing being flashed and the message popping up saying flash was successful....normally a few seconds lag but mine was like 15 seconds.

now, i've added the flash switch that returns to the "A" prompt instead of forcing me into a reboot....this way i can do it many more times to make sure!:yepp:

i might have to buy another Pro flash chip from abit just to be on the safe side before i flash again!:p:...amazing that a floppy drive was my method used to hot flash on the QuadGT...many disbelievers out there who don't trust the floppy but it has been true blue to me!:up:

some pictures of my setup waiting for ln2 :)

http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/7233/img0026lb7.jpg
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/4221/img0027wv8.jpg
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/8297/img0028er5.jpg
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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

is that toward me? I said I doubt it was the PSU because I am able to use different memory just not the 6400HZ(but didn't state that) - yes I tried sticks separately too ... a stick of G.Skill 256MB DDR2 533 boots though whenever I change memory I must unplug mobo and reset cmos and take out battery:down: :down: :down: :shrug:

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NO!...i was NOT talking to you directly...it was a general statement...the reason i said it...to many just do not want to recognize that even though they have the best hardware made, it does not preclude it from failing..or..it can not hack the power requirements because it lost efficiency.

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Originally Posted by Xtasy

some pictures of my setup waiting for ln2 :)

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very nice...i see you did the mod...is the toggle switch there to deactivate the mod for testing purposes?

OK - just wish I could figure out my memory issue - will try more BIOSs today as I am not working =lol=

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

I'm on the fence about it as I stated above about the memory and it does clock my E6850 well though I am now starting to miss my 680i as I know that board "like the back of my hand" <- maybe I just have to give this board some time ;)

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each board has its own little perks that you can miss when you move on to another board...give it some more time; it might grow on you!:D

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Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue

very nice...i see you did the mod...is the toggle switch there to deactivate the mod for testing purposes?

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correct :) its only the vcore read out and drop mod. i need to do the vcore mod itself:)

i flashed bios under windows XD the system stocked and than nothing when he was verifiying the version. so i restarted and the new bios was flashed correctly, what a luck :D

oh, i definitely stayed away from flashing in windows...heard about to many failures using that method.

i red it but i thought, how do you want to know it if you dont test it ? ^^ do you know where i can read out vdimm? on the normal mosfets for memory? i should take my time and figure it out myself XD

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue

NO!...i was NOT talking to you directly...it was a general statement...the reason i said it...to many just do not want to recognize that even though they have the best hardware made, it does not preclude it from failing..or..it can not hack the power requirements because it lost efficiency.

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You're right there. Everything, every single piece of electrical equipment has a MTBF and typical lifespan. Some models are just better than others and build quality differs, units still fail. Personally knowing electronic manufacturing, I always dread the Friday afternoon models. I think it fair to point out. In this particular instance the psu in question is unlikely to have a generic problem with the board and its even more unlikely under normal circumstances, given a reasonable age and component derating to be an overload issue.

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Originally Posted by SpinCykle

Yup I'm going to do that. Its really weird though, the PSU will boot my second desktop no problems. Maybe the PCP&P just didn't have enough "umph" for the new rig.

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As I said, with a healthy unit its unlikely to be the loading, if it cant boot a board from cold with hardly any load it has a problem. The PCP&C 510 has very capable rails, the 12v alone can supply over 400W continuous load rating at 50C with very little droop or ripple. I've booted the board with 4 different psu's, the smallest an old 350W worked just fine for initial soak testing. From my bits and pieces, I had the choice of a 850W Toughpower and the PCP&C, I went with the 510, as it showed the lowest voltage drop benching a 3.8GHz quad and GTX.

Its just odd that yours is still powering another unit, did you check the outputs with a meter?

This is mine running 4 cores prime small fft's + 3dmark06.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/4...1980vo2.th.jpg

Xtasy,
One of the many vDIMM measuring points on IP35 Pro:

what vdimm do you read from the mosfet and what does the bios & uguru readout?

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Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue

what vdimm do you read from the mosfet and what does the bios & uguru readout?

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well i read 1,44 vcore in bios its 1,445 real ( multimeter)

vdimm ist 2.02 stable ( multimeter ) an bios shows me between 1.98-2.01v

Xtc.. good luck with your ln2 run... just make sure you insulate well where the vmods are cos I didnt and had to stop cos my vcore was jumping all ovr the place ( 1.75v-1.86v )....

Intead of leaving it open like this, I wrapped armaflex over the mod all the way to the back of board to be safe and I didnt have issues... mod came off though when I took off the armaflex to do the vcore mod.....
http://ocidb.com/albums/userpics/10062/DSC00673.JPG

My rig on Ln2.... NB, SB and Mosfett watercooled... not that the mosfett needed it cos it was at 2c without wc.....
http://ocidb.com/albums/userpics/10062/DSC00712.JPG

help, newbee to ip-35 pro bios, 3.2 stable canot get any higher,used to d975xbx2 bios,thanks in advance, scorpion

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Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue

oh, i definitely stayed away from flashing in windows...heard about to many failures using that method.

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Just flashed to the 11 BIOS via Flashmenu with no problems :p:

On the other hand, I read a post by you earlier that I found by searching...about the FanEQ not working after you make a change in the BIOS. Well the CMOS reset fixed it, then I loaded my profile and away I went. Got this Delta to slow down to 50&#37; so its fairly quiet but it makes a high pitched whine. Anyway that will be replaced with something else soon enough.

The problem is, it does not control the fan past 50%. It stays there, and will not kick up no matter how hot it gets. I had the same exact problem on the IP35.

Also does anyone have trouble setting the multiplier? On both the 10 and 11 BIOS, so far I can't change the multipler. It all looks fine in the BIOS, but when I get into Windows it always kicks up to 9 no matter what I set. I want 450x8 for starters. Does EIST conflict with multiplier adjustments maybe? I'd like to use both.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by luihed

Xtc.. good luck with your ln2 run... just make sure you insulate well where the vmods are cos I didnt and had to stop cos my vcore was jumping all ovr the place ( 1.75v-1.86v )....

Intead of leaving it open like this, I wrapped armaflex over the mod all the way to the back of board to be safe and I didnt have issues... mod came off though when I took off the armaflex to do the vcore mod.....
http://ocidb.com/albums/userpics/10062/DSC00673.JPG

My rig on Ln2.... NB, SB and Mosfett watercooled... not that the mosfett needed it cos it was at 2c without wc.....
http://ocidb.com/albums/userpics/10062/DSC00712.JPG

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ill takte the vrms away so they don get the cold. its normal that the vcore begins to jump because the resisetence becomes lower. wou was that person using that mini pot, arent you?

Just a question.. Anyone have any problems with Buffalo Firestix PC8000 (D9GKX) on the IP35? The default voltage of 1.8 didn't work, and using a seperate stick of ram to boot up and change the voltage to 2.2 also didn't let these sticks run at all.

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Originally Posted by Bbq

Just a question.. Anyone have any problems with Buffalo Firestix PC8000 (D9GKX) on the IP35? The default voltage of 1.8 didn't work, and using a seperate stick of ram to boot up and change the voltage to 2.2 also didn't let these sticks run at all.

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same problem :down: as my 6400HZ

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Originally Posted by Soulburner

Just flashed to the 11 BIOS via Flashmenu with no problems :p:

On the other hand, I read a post by you earlier that I found by searching...about the FanEQ not working after you make a change in the BIOS. Well the CMOS reset fixed it, then I loaded my profile and away I went. Got this Delta to slow down to 50% so its fairly quiet but it makes a high pitched whine. Anyway that will be replaced with something else soon enough.

The problem is, it does not control the fan past 50%. It stays there, and will not kick up no matter how hot it gets. I had the same exact problem on the IP35.

Also does anyone have trouble setting the multiplier? On both the 10 and 11 BIOS, so far I can't change the multipler. It all looks fine in the BIOS, but when I get into Windows it always kicks up to 9 no matter what I set. I want 450x8 for starters. Does EIST conflict with multiplier adjustments maybe? I'd like to use both.

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You need to disable EIST and maybe also C1E before you drop the multi.

[QUOTE=Xtasy;2422679]some pictures of my setup waiting for ln2 :)

nice table set up u have there, i do carton bencing on the floor right now lol. sold my dinner table heh

I had a feeling its conflicting with it, like the multiplier adjustment won't take unless you disable EIST, but I'd like to use them both...otherwise I'd have to settle for "only" 9x400 when I'd really like 8x450 for more FSB.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

same problem :down: as my 6400HZ

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Several are running HZ without a problem, one of the Mods at abit forums is running 4 x 1GB in a IP35 Pro without issue.

Yes I'm aware of that its just that I know it works and it no worky in the IP-35PRO:slap: :horse: :shrug:

Though I do like the fact that I can run at 525MHz FSB no problem - haven't tested max FSB yet

To whomever caught it I quoted myself by accident and removed it <-:rofl:
:with:

Has any 1 managed/know if the Vdrop mod would work on Abit Ip35 (non pro)?

it should be the same board without the Uguru chip on it.

well I checked the mod forum...seems it is different and there is no guide on how to do this on a non pro version.
The actual motherboard layout is different....pity.
:(

Up and running now with Ace-a-Rue's Heatpipe/Heatsink mod.

IP35 Pro
E6850
2x1GB Crucial Ballistix @ 5-5-5-15-30-2T

Running OCCT at 400x9=3600mhz @ 1.320v (CPU-Z)

I found that to have multiplier control you must disable EIST, which is a bummer. I tested 450x8=3600mhz and got an extra 1,000 points in 3DMark2001 which is roughly an average gain of 2-3&#37; per game test. Seems small but if its free, I'll take it. Only problem is I can't run that setting with EIST on otherwise it tries to run 450x9 (default multiplier).

Loved seeing Car Low, Dragothic Low, and Lobby Low all max out at 999fps though :D

At these settings uGuru is reporting that the PWM temp is just hitting 50c after 30 minutes of OCCT which is pretty good :cool: I did not add any fans to my heatsinks as I think its overkill - I have an NZXT Zero case which has 4 side fans, 2 rear, and my heatsink is the Enzotech Ultra-X which blows downward on the surrounding area (PWM, NB, etc). System temp shows 37c.

Maybe since 3600mhz was so effortless I should bump up my goal a bit. I need to take advantage of this RAM - I didn't buy it to run it at stock!

damm is there anybody that can give me the heads up how to overclock the ip 35 pro, newbee to the board.

Try doing a bit of reading...its really simple. Even the user manual that comes with the board explains the functions of the BIOS.

Helluva chip you got there. I need around 1.475 in bios to hit 3600 on the E6400. :( Temps get up towards 65C on the cpu.

EDIT: Damn this thread moves as fast as some of the AVS owner's threads! That's for Soul BTW.

i have read butt it seems to be stuck at 3.2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jodiuh

Helluva chip you got there. I need around 1.475 in bios to hit 3600 on the E6400. :( Temps get up towards 65C on the cpu.

EDIT: Damn this thread moves as fast as some of the AVS owner's threads! That's for Soul BTW.

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Yeah I paid a little extra for the E6850 over the E6750 and E6550 (which I also bought one of) so I could get a little extra headroom and it seems to be paying off.

I am going to try for 400x9 as a daily stable setting, am testing OCCT to see what kind of voltage it takes to keep it there. I will then test some dividers to see what the memory can do, and its effect on performance. I want the kind of boost I got from running 450x8 but I can't do that with C1E/EIST so I'm forced to run 400x9 and use a divider to get the memory back up there.

The Heatpipe/Heatsink mod posted by Ace-A-Rue has helped tremendously though. I am only seeing a 50c PWM loaded with stress testing at the moment, probably higher with more ambient temp (gaming) but thats nothing near what some people are reporting, as high as 80-90c! :eek:

soulburner thanks,the voltage had me,mch,would be the same as vmch ,then witch one is vfsb.

I haven't seen a vfsb?

I have run up to 460 without needing to touch the mch, ich, etc. CPU and DDR volts have been the only things needing adjustment so far.

Are those settings in your sig current?

I got really lucky w/ this board. The sinks are all flat and PWM temps hit pretty much what the cpu does, so loaded w/ orthos blend will get me 50C w/ stock volts @ 26C ambient.

Normally, I get the board w/ the heatpipe tore off in a fit of rage. :D

Mine looked the same as Ace-a-Rue's board. The pad on the PWM's, when taken off had less than half of the chips leaving an indent on it, meaning over one half of the chips were touching nothing but air.

My board also got a little curvy after the mod but it wasn't extreme and it functions normally.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Soulburner

Mine looked the same as Ace-a-Rue's board. The pad on the PWM's, when taken off had less than half of the chips leaving an indent on it, meaning over one half of the chips were touching nothing but air.

My board also got a little curvy after the mod but it wasn't extreme and it functions normally.

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i did a PWM mod to my QuadGT board just for kicks and i screwed the pooch by not getting the heatsink to sit level on all five digital PWM's...normal overclock was ok until i started to P95...it was over in a matter of minutes...poof went the smoke into the air on the open bench.:yepp:

now i have a board to improve on my soldering skills.;)

no,425x8, vcore 1.45 vdimm 2.050 ,thats my old sig

How much vdimm is too much?

I'm running D9GMH based memory, Crucial Ballistix PC6400. Currently at 400x9 with a 1.25 (4:5) divider for a nice even 500mhz (DDR2-1000) at 5-5-5-15-30-2T. I am just creeping up over 2.2v trying to gain some RAM stability through a 30 min OCCT RAM test. Have not run any memtest yet though so I don't know what kind of errors to expect.

I have a fan blowing on them, but how much is too much?

buy the DFI BloodIron, the same chipsets 'n more baratus !!! :up:

The 2 G.Skill HZ I'm running have an Antec Spot on low. At 2.1, they're warmish hot wo/ the fan, barely warm w/. If I jack it up to 2.3, they get a little toasty even w/ the fan. FWIW, it's about on par w/ a good 80mm spinning around 1700RPM on low...spot fan that is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DualCore

buy the DFI BloodIron, the same chipsets 'n more baratus !!!

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DFI Intel boards suck. :down:
WTH is "baratus"?

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Originally Posted by Master of None

Several are running HZ without a problem, one of the Mods at abit forums is running 4 x 1GB in a IP35 Pro without issue.

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iam running HZ without issue aswell.

of course iamjust running them stock sync with the bus. I need this set up to last at lest a year..money is tight

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Xtasy

ill takte the vrms away so they don get the cold. its normal that the vcore begins to jump because the resisetence becomes lower. wou was that person using that mini pot, arent you?

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Yup, thats me :D ... I was going to use another piece to make it longer but Its working good the way it is.....

As for the vcore, its jumping a whole .1v like itll be at 1.75v then 1.86v all of the sudden without doing anything... I dont think thats normakl cos when I had it insulated well it was very steady at whatever voltage i set it at.... There wont be any more voltmodding for me cos Im using DFI LP now... First run and Im clocking higher already :D... Only had a couple litres though....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

WTH is "baratus"?

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I guess he means "cheap".