Liquid or powder can be in a heatpipe.
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Liquid or powder can be in a heatpipe.
Powder? How will that work:confused:
I hooked it up but alas, it made no difference. I tried a run @8x450 @ 1.4325 which gives me 1.36 in Uguru. I bumped all the other voltages up 3 notches except ram which I left at 2.2. Ram was at DDR900 @ 5-5-5-12-2T, under it's rated specs. Same results, core 3 crapped out at just over 3 minutes in Prime. CPU temp was mid 50's in CoreTemp. PMW was @ 61c. I will try reflashing the bios tomorrow night to see if it makes any difference. This is starting to frustrate me a bit (no pun intended). :shrug: :shakes: :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
Well...I am not mad but I did chop off the stock coolers in order to install HR-05 for NB and HR-05 SLI for SB (yeah I know, it is kinda an overkill)Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
The reason I cut it off is because I had to keep the stock PWM cooler (couldn't find anything else that fits PWM area)
I did install a 40mm fan over PWM tho
Now I am very happy w/ the temps (all use push pins, pwm 35c/50c idle/load)
So this is my second board since my first one was borked from the get go.
Anyway, if I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post. This board is like 4 days old. I was able to load XP and Vista 64. I had to change the USB control in the BIOS to Keyboard over OS. They keyboard would respond at the BIOS splash but not after post like hitting any key to boot from cd.
For some reason my new Vista install went to trash. Now I am trying to boot into XP but can't and cannot even OC. If I make changes in the BIOS, my machine won't post. It just stutters, and the fans and lights flicker and it won't start. It won't start after saving BIOS settings. Now I can enter the BIOS by hitting delete, but when I have to get to the OS selection screen or "Press Any key" screens, it won;t respond even though there is backlighting and power to the KB.
Seems I am kind of screwed, and have been very unhappy with this abit board, my first actual abit. The two versions of the BIOS make no difference. Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.
I would RMA the motherboard but not before giving abit's customer support a call.Quote:
Originally Posted by FlimFlam00
Quote:
Originally Posted by cLOUDFAn
When I was using water for the nb, I used some OCZ bga ramsinks for the mosfett and they worked really well.... my PWN temp was lower than with the stock heatpipe... I used (8) full sinks and (4) 1/2 sinks and put one on each mosfett with some AS5, then I used a lil bit of crazyglue to stick all the bga sinks together to make one big heatsink.... Since each mosfett has its own sink, contact is perfect.... easily 5c cooler than stock at load....
sounds goodQuote:
Originally Posted by luihed
but how do you stick that big heatsink onto mosfet? crazyglue it as well? (I have some AS adhesive left, maybe I will try that)
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlimFlam00
Go here:
http://forum.uabit.com/forumdisplay.php?f=48
Post your problems, list all components.
I didnt have to use anything cos my board lays flat instead of upright in a case, the as5 is enough to keep them from moving around.... These sinks came with thermal tape and they were very good but I just yanked these from my commando...
http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...s-discontinued
What RAM are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by FlimFlam00
I had/have the same issue with my oldest set of OCZ PC2-8500 SLI that I use for suicide runs & generally abuse but luckily I have several sets so I just change the RAM overclock to where I want to be then slip the old torture able set back in & everything runs fine.
My old set wont boot @ 1.8v either so again if the CMOS needs clearing I have to change the RAM to a newer set or sometimes I use a 512mb stick of no name cheap 1.8v CL5 PC2-6400 just to boot.
What I am getting at is perhaps you should try some different RAM & see if it helps.
CN
Here is some information on the heatpipe. There used to be a pic in that thread showing the cross section of the pipe itself. If I remember correctly, it was a wet type of foam.
For those who read the thread, the 3 x 13 heatsink does not fit on the mosfets.:down:
I'm curious about the question about using thermal adhesive with Ace's mod.
Ace, why not use some AS thermal adhesive? Maybe it wouldn't be the best of ideas for the NB/SB, but what about the MOSFETS? Would that be any better at cooling? I wouldn't see how, but hey...I don't know. :p
try everest stability over prime 95...you don't need prime to qualify your system as stable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
never tried the self-adhesive stuff so i can't say...always used ceramique for my paste of choice since it is totally non-conductive...AS5 can conduct electrical curent if the paste is compressed sufficiently.Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
I am using XMS pc8500. I only have two sets at the moment. 2 x 1gb Corsair, and 2 x 2gb Mushkin. I gave a set to a needy friend, but thinking of picking up some Crucials or Gskills this week. I have just been spending money like mad - iPhone, Macbook Pro, 2nd rig, 42" HDTV, etc, and I still have stuff on my "wish list."Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Well I love the features and layout of the board, but have had problems with two of them. It is very quirky, and am much more fond of 680i board at the moment. I may just RMA this board again or get another 680i board, or the DFI p35. Just as long as it works, I am good, because in a short while it is going to be replaced with an X38 or nVidia C72 board.
Problems the past two weeks:
My LL a05 build:
cpu backplate fell behind mobo when install WB (doh!)
two borked Swiftech pumps (RMA'd)
bad ip35 board (RMA)
corrupted Vista64 install
2nd ip35 - acting really funny
build for someone else
rad leak
rad puncture
fan cable cut (sliced it cutting a zip tie)
bad IDE cable (two hours to TS)
faulty DVD drive
Are the Hardware God's testing my skills/patience or what? Though some of them were my SNAFU's.
I am going to read every post in this thread to see if i can glean some settings.
Thanks guys.
Tried Everest before, gets the cpu as hot as Prime blend. Prime small fft's get a lot hotter, at least 8C more on mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
OCCT or S&M may push it even harder havent tried them on a quad yet, better still folding.
http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download
http://testmem.nm.ru/snm.htm
Any word on the next official bios release?
Just received my IP35 PRO and Q6600 G0 a minute ago! I still have to wait for the 8800GTS to come tomorrow but damn am I excited :D. I'm going to home depot to purchase the nuts and bolts for the heatpipe mod. You can clearly see that the heatpipe is not seated right. I'll take pics later. Also purchased a 1k ohm pot for vdroop mod. I'm going to purchase some MX-2, but it will take a week or so to arrive so I'll be on AS5 until then. I know the difference is minimal, but I like it. The board looks very promising. BTW, I've been staring at my q6600 in its box and dr00ling ever since I saw it :p: New rig in sig, upgraded from 875chipset (and I thought 250FSB was an achievement :rolleyes: ).
You have saved the lives of many heatpipes today.Quote:
Originally Posted by chawks2
If you have de-soldered your heatpipe is it one long one from mosfets - southbridge or 2 short ones from mosfets - northbridge, northbridge - southbridge?
I decided against getting crazy with the heatpipe and delved into watercooling. Hopefully, someone has done this mod and has an answer!Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
So what, you've watercooled your NB, SB and Mosfets?Quote:
Originally Posted by chawks2
Just use Arctic Cooling MX-1/MX-2.Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
Just to throw another tidbit of info out there for the searches...the IP35 makes almost perfect contact out of the box. The IP35 Pro seems to sit crooked on the NB though. Not sure why there is a big difference in the quality of the two.
NB is WC, wish I did SB too, but just have the aBIT cooler. Mosfets have RAM sinks on them, PWM temps dont go above 50c.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
Yes in the thread you linked to said you were going to watercool your NB and wanted to know how to dismantle your heatpipe so you could use the SB and mosfet parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by chawks2
So if you have only the SB part of the stock heatpipe installed then surely must have somehow dismantled it?
If everything goes as planned, I should finish my project watercooling all three ( NB, SB and mosfett ) by next week.... What ive done is make my own copper blocks that fits underneath the stock heatpipe.... 2x 1/4" lines goes in the northbridge, from there 1 line goes to sb and the other to the mosfett... Ill be using a 1/4" ID copper pipe to connect all 3 like the stock heatpipe;) ....
Not sure yet what Ill do to the stock HP .... I can leave it alone and just put it on top of my blocks (which will raise everything by 10mm) or I can chop it up then put it on top of my blocks..... The latter will only raise everything by 6-7mm, also there will only be 1 pipe going through the board... I have to wait and see how the blocks perform first before I can make my decision, my watertemp is usually 5c below ambient so it should work well.... Should look pretty cool :D
Order it from Petra's. You'll get it in 3 days or less even with the cheapest shipping (FROM CA TO FL!). They have incredible speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
I'm confusing you, it was just a thought, I bought the aBIT heatsink for the SB from their website. Sorry. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by K20
i am not a Prime fan since it proves nothing other than you can fold at that overclock...i do not fold;) ....usually you have put the volts up there to support priming at a high overclock...if you can do an hour of prime then my hat is off to you!:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
Yeah, I like S&M and CPU Burn-In too.Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
I tried Everest and it is no problem at 3600, 9x400 @ 1.32 showing in uGuru, 1.3825 in bios. I still have a fealing that the root of my problem is my psu. I had given this all up back when I built my last AMD system, an Opty 165. No matter what I tried I could not get it stable above 2600. I put that together in Dec. '05 and I bought the Powerstream then thinking it was the best around without breaking the bank. But I am going to find out. I picked up a PCP&C Turbo Cool 850 and will give that a try. At least I'll know it is NOT the psu anymore. And besides, for $120.00 NIB with the 5 year warranty, how could I pass it up :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
4.1Ghz run into windows!
Based on tests I've done using a ntc thermistor on a naked opteron and using a a devise similar to kill-a-watt, I've found that SP2004 (orthos) small fft tends to create the highest temperatures and pull the most power from the wall. Concurrently it would error out quicker than other priming tests as well. Even the "Gromacs Core" would pull about 10 less watts than small fft on that program. I think I only tested this with about 4 different programs (I know one of them was "Prime").
where did you buy that PSU?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
Ebay store has a bunch of them. He has them listed at 139.95 buy-it-now but also has a Make Offer button. I said $115m he came back with $125, I came back with $120 and he took it. I know it won't be the quietest psu but I won't ever have to worry about if it is causing any instability problems. And the extra size will be no problem in my case. I just couldn't pass it up, if you know what I mean. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
can anyone tell me what speed does the second PCIEXP runs at the reason is because i want to install this card and want to make sure it is fully compatible
CARD: areca ARC-1210 PCI-Express x8
thx
Second PCI-E runs at 4XQuote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
<3 <3 <3 <3 <3 Thanks :DQuote:
Originally Posted by scwam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
what would it mean if i install this PCI-E 8X, would it run at full potential or should i get something different
thx
Read a few pages back there is a screenshot from Brother where he tested his card in 8x and in 4x. The 4x had a pretty decent performance drop.Quote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Found it thx, i guess i'llwait till the X38 and see what mobo to get
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
fully compatible!...i have the card...check my specs...running fine as i am using it to type this post...barely going to see a difference between 4x and 8x speed!
First of all I'd like to thank all you guys for such a great forum, you've answered many questions I've had for a long time.
My problem is I don't seem to be able to get my system to boot at any thing above 400FSB. I've dropped the multi down to 6 and still no post. I've been running at 3.2GHz (356X9) Prime stable for a month now. I decided to drop the multi to see how far I could push the ram before I get a new CPU next week but no boot. I tried 450X6 and 425X7 ram timings 6-6-6-24 no post. it just reverts to previous settings. I know it's not the ram because they run fine @ 854MHz 4-4-4-12.
P.S. I've tried with just 2 of ram sticks also.
The only real difference is in Burst Rate but for actual day to day use its fine and the performance hit on read/write is very small only a few point drop in Benching. Now if you were running as a server where people are accessing it all day then thats where you see you're Burst Rate really come into play. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Stick 9x multi. Core speed is KING. E4300 is not designed for high FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by olskool3565
Well I figured I would get my best overclock wih the 9x multi, I was just trying to push my ram to see how fast I could get them to run. 425x7 is only 2.975GHz, I thought this should run no problem.Quote:
Stick 9x multi. Core speed is KING. E4300 is not designed for high FSB.
Ohh well as long as I don't get the same problem with a Q6600 or E6850 it doesn't matter.
Just got the board a couple days ago. Threw on XP and did some stock stability tests. Now that the weekend's here, it's time to play. :D Here's my first run after hiking up all V a tick (MCH 2 ticks). Board's on an open bench w/ minimal airflow, case will be better. Any feedback would be appreciated.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...p35pro3600.jpg
Heatpipe's def on good, that's a first for a stock situation for me. It's completely straight and level! SB's barely warm, if at all. NB's warm/hot. And the PWM's sink's hot. They're def doing their job, but I'm sure a reapply of paste will help. Now I just have to decide whether I wanna play Bioshock or do Ace's mod/put in case. :D
EDIT: Arctic Cooling AF8 80mm's over the PWM and it's down to 52C. It's gonna be just fine inside the case...maybe I'll play Bioshock after all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
That's pretty impressive with the Q6600 ;)
My E6850 @ 4.2Ghz
http://aycu01.webshots.com/image/264...5333816_rs.jpg
Can you guys please tell me how to make a MS Dos USB Flash Drive? I'm trying to flash my bios with Ace's Guide. Really need help on this. Thanks.
oh man!:D ..the race is on...LOL:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by JPxM0Dz
use this tool to make your USB drive into a bootable drive:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=197
thx for the feedback i went ahead and ordered today from the egg, thxQuote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Thanks. I'm doing your heatpipe mod as I post this :D Homedepot only had the #4 Galvanized washer. And the #4 bolts are flat head bolts but it'll do. I'm gonna leave the thermal tape on until I receive my MX-2. BTW, do you guys think it's worth the upgrade from a Zalman 9500 to a TRUE?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
cool!:up:
you are not going to be disappointed...the card just smokes...hehehehehehe:DQuote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
Heatpipe Mod done! I think that 1/2inch would have done it. The 3/4 inch is simply too much. Although I think it would have been harder to install a 1/2inch so I'm happy :p: Here's some pix. Enjoi :D
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali008.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali007.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali006.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali005.jpg
Finally my work area (bed room)
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rum/Ali009.jpg
That mod is much easier if you bring the bolts down from the top and then use some dikes to cut the extra bolt length flush with the nut... Either way it works quite well.
Anyone know what settings I should set in bios to boot from the flash drive? It's not as simple as my old p4 system :(
your way is as good!:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by pcdoc1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
that work room is like mine...LOL:p:
Great minds work a like :D BTW, I installed that hp program. I just don't know where to find my Dos files. Any idea? it says it needs them from my pc. I've done this before but it really has been a while :rolleyes: I took the win 98 files in the link instead. But the motherboard is either having a hard time booting from the usb drive, or the files aren't working.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
YOU, above!:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by JPxM0Dz
--------------------------------------------------------
ME, below!:p: :sonic: :sonic: :sonic:
lets see...hmmmmm...i beat you by 2 whole Mhz...LOL:up:
hey guys..this is a workable Mhz..open up the browser and sent/received email.
you make a boot disk using windows format toolQuote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
Well you can't use windows format tool to make an ms dos usb boot drive. But I figured it out. The link you gave me had two links. One for win98 dos files and the other was the hp tool. You were supposed to use the win98 dos files as the source. Bah I guess I'm tired. But no sleep, not yet anywayz :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
hp tool FTW.
I just flashed it, but I'm not all happy yet. It went through the steps and started flashing it and I started praying :D It said flash complete and I hit F1. Now the monitor went off but the motherboard didn't reset. And because you said this will take 2 minutes when it took 20 seconds, I'm scared to reset it :eek:
EDIT: Ok, I grew some balls in the last 30 seconds and decided to reset and it failed :( it's not working any more. I don't know whether to RMA or what. Just kidding it worked :D
LOL...you prankster!...hehehehehehehehe:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
yes, you can!...you make the disk and when you open the USB format tool, you just point to the "A" drive to pull the boot command off from the floppy.
I don't understand. It doesn't let me choose the ms dos start up. I don't have a floppy drive, hence why I've been talking about usb the whole time :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rdForum/uh.jpg
you are trying to fool me!:D
Ok my new IP35 pro is running about 80-81c on the PWM after 30 minutes at 3.8ghz 1.55 vcore. Wondering if I should still do the PWM mod.
Here are my verified via DMM vcore readings
Bios set 1.615
Bios Reading 1.56
DMM 1.56 to 1.57 (actual)
In windows:
UGURU: 1.55 to 1.57
DMM : 1.56
Under Load at above Bios setting @ 3.95 ghz
UGURU: 1.53 to 1.54
DMM: 1.52
So my vdroop doesn't seem to bad (0.04v) at load. It's the Bios setting vs the DMM actual that is the big difference.
Uguru is pretty accurate at reporting vcore but the temps to me don't seem to be acurate. It's about 10c above Coretemp.
I'm going to throw one of my micro thermistors between the motherboard's cpu pins and put it there permanently to get the real temp.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3..._s_Photo-1.jpg
http://www.mcshaneinc.com/html/Sens_TS91HP.html
Just happens that it fits without hindering anything. These things are very accurate.
the PWM temps should be somewhere in the 60's...to high for my own liking...your decision on the mod but you won't regret it if you do it.
your vdrop+vdroops is close to mine...somewhere between a total of 0.08 to 0.09 under load.
Can you guys please tell me what's going on here. At first I was not doing anything and was at 1.3vcore then I ran orthos on each core, and my vcore started to go down (vdroop). But after I stopped orthos, it started going lower and lower. WTF is going on. Is this the vdroop everyone else was talking about. I'm definitely doing the vdroop mod. I bough the vr before I bought the motherboard :P:
http://img260.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ntitledfu7.png
Have you got C1E or EIST enabled in BIOS as these can reduce both your multiplier & voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
CN
That's weird though. I had the pc on for an hour or so. Finally when I start to stress test it goes down? And the worst part is it doesn't go back up after done stress testing. Even if I let it sit for a while and stress test again. I just turned eist and c1e off. Hopefully I won't have this issue any more after the vdroop mod. BTW, I'm attempting to overclock the fsb right now. I just maxed out on default voltage at 340FSB. Don't know if that's good or bad. Will keep testing. Thanks for the reply CN.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
ya make sure C1e eist are off on intial testing, you can possbily enable them later once u are comfortable with your overclock. I got my system stable finally, and sitting at 3.6ghz. 1:1 with EIST&c1E enabled to compensate for the 1.52 vcore i need to set. i would prefer it to idle with lower voltage.
to above poster ur board should have no problem doing 400fsb with no more than 1.33mch 360fsb u could prolly leave the voltages stock, maybe a lil VTT.
I just finished testing my Patriot memory and ended up with 1032mhz @ 5-5-4-13 1T. I'm only testing out one 2x1gb kit currently but I'm quite satisfied with it. I set mch to 1.33 and so far I'm at 485FSB and going. Can you please explain the CPU VTT, etc. I'm not too familiar with these, including ichio and all that stuff :p: Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
I've got a strange problem. My motherboard's great and completely stable in everything I throw at it - except when I try to put it in S3 standby.
At stock speeds, it'll come out and have the IDE controller detected as a removable device, with my old HD showing up on there.
If I overclock it much (I think at all), the computer simply refuses to come out of standby. I have to hard reboot it.
I've tried searching around, and don't see any mention of other people having the same issue. I suppose I don't really care much because I don't have to use standby, but it was a nice convenience to have my computer shut itself off if I leave it idle for an hour or so, since it's a tiny space heater as it is. :D
I noticed the 1 kohm resistors come in multiple flavors based on power rating: some are 25W, some 50W, 100W, etc ... what's the difference between the power ratings and which one is needed for this mod?Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine
Thanks
I'm doing the vdroop mod posted above right now. But I'm using a glue gun which I find difficult to the 'Xtreme'. How can I verify the mod worked? I mean should there be absolutely no vdroop at idle and then burn? How many turns am I supposed to move that resistor?
Don't perform the mod withouth a DMM! :eek: BTW, it's not how many turns, it's the resistance that you want in ohms. So measure the the resistor with a DMM. Should be 620-650ohms. You can verify if the mod worked by stressing the cpu and checking the vcore with a DMM. There shouldn't be a huge droop anymore. JB said you should leave a very little droop just incase.Quote:
Originally Posted by scwam
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=802
I'll be doing the vdroop mod later on, but I just spent hours trying to run my 4 sticks in 1t while keeping tight timings. I finally got them at 800mhz 5-4-4-12-1T @ 1.9v. Now I can OC :D I love this board. It's just easy once you get the hang of it. uGuru is better than what I thought it would be.
A very stupid question... but the pci bus is locked at 33 mhz by default or not?
so far so good with my mod Vdroop...
http://img.techpowerup.org/070902/IMG_5053.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/070902/vdrop.jpg
Is there a software option to control fan speeds? I was planning to do volt mods, but I just wanted to check other options.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
UGuru does it all:)
Wow I kept forgetting to press apply for the fan settings. :sofa:Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
But for some reason the settings will not work for my CPU fan. It works for all my other fans but that one. It is also the same fan model and make as my others. :(
Thank you. :)
you need to clear cmos to get the cpu fan to work again...i found out that the controller resets to full speed if you change any bios setting after setting that particular fan controller up....and...the only way to get it to function again is to clear cmos...i am working with the 12.B01 bios...i emailed Abit through their black box about this problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
my cure was to put both of my cpu fans on aux 1 & 2 fan controller heads and those two work with no problem at all when you change the settings....just put another fan sensor on the cpu controller head to keep the board from shutting down.
Thank you. :) Can I just disable the shut-down and beep for the CPU fan if I put it on a different header?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
try it to see.
Has anyone here had problems with the combination of a Corsair 520W and the IP35?
I get a high frequency noise coming from the motherboard, when I use my Corsair. It gets louder and more obtrusive under load. It is quite loud and I can clearly hear it even with the cabinet closed (P182)
When I switch to my Seasonic S12-430, the noise almost disappears.
Are you sure it isn't coming from the power supply itself? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
It would make more sense if it did, but it sounds like its coming from the upper part of the motherboard. If I hold my ear right next to the PSU, there is no noise except for a little fan noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by RAdoxx
Anyone having problems with coretemp? It causes and automatic reboot for me when I attempt to run it. Using version .95. I'll try.95.4 beta
I get it too but only under heavy load at high clocks 3.6+Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
I have a 500w antec neo HE. Its weird, it does sound like the mb but its not a big deal bc I dont keep my clocks up that high.
there are 4 coils embedded in individual cases with silicone around the coils...if there is not enough silicone, it will make harmonic sounds..these coils are just next to the PWM heatsink....higher load affect these coils by making them work harder, i presume, at dampening the pulses in current....you can always add more silcone.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfox2
Hmmm been hearing the same thing and I have been trying to locate that high pitched frequency noise for a couple of weeks now. It sounds like a very faint dog whistle sound and I just replaced my PC-PC Silencer 750w for this OP1000 a couple of days ago and I have even put my brand new G-Skill HZ RAM in hear to see if it was the Crucial making the noise and its not that either and the friggin noise is driving me nuts and my hearing sucks to begin with so its kinda pissin me off!
I get the noise too with a S12 500w and ballistix PC8500 ( not often) but I swapped to corsair value ram and get much more noise, waiting my ballistix back from sav .Quote:
Originally Posted by ssboisen
yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
the CPUFan header on the Pro will only control a 4-pin PWM fan - if you have a 3-pin & want to control it move it to another header.
I use OCCT to load my PC. So I run it and around 10min into testing my PC freezes. The mouse and keyboard(G15) do not respond. The only thing that works is the timer for OCCT.
Is this normal? I am usually able to work even with OCCT running 100%.
This also happens with .exe Memtest.
I reset the clocks to all default and gave the vDimm a little more. (@ 2.0v) Still the same problem. What might be causing this? :(
That was my initial thought too, that it was the coils.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Now I just don't know anymore, since the noise is practically gone with my Seasonic S12 PSU. If the noise is coming from the motherboard, it must be something with the combination of mobo and PSU.
Thing is I would really like to use my Corsair PSU because of its modular cable system.
It is a power realated issue though for sure. I run a Q6600 @ 3.6 and if I go back to stock clock the problem pretty much disappears.