i might give it a try to see if i come up with the same problem...at what point do you get the BSOD? after the OS install or during?
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i might give it a try to see if i come up with the same problem...at what point do you get the BSOD? after the OS install or during?
I got the BSOD duing the time when it said "Windows is starting up." During install. It just froze there and after some time (<5min) it just got a BSOD.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I am using ID:11 BIOS
The SATA hard drives are on ports 1 and 2. The SATA DVD drive is on port 4.
I am not using the Jmicron controller.
I selected RAID instead of AHCI. I think that is the reason for the BSOD.
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
is the Jmicron controller disabled during the setup?
are you re-doing it to confirm now?
i am about ready to run AHCI install if you haven't found the problem...LMK
EDIT:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Here is a screen shot of what I have. Is this what you mean?
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/1829/img2950we1.jpg
I don't have to enable the controller do I?
that controller might possibly be intererring with the installation...disable it!
have you re-installed the AHCI (OS) driver to see if that makes it work since you believed you used the Raid driver by mistake?
I thought I needed the Raid driver?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I will see what I can do.
I will try to disable it and try installing again, but not right now. :)
EDIT:
I installed the AHCI driver from the driver disk. I restarted and ran the tests with and without volume write back cache. There are the same results as before.
i am going to run an installation on a solo drive since i do have the time and want to test it to see how good AHCI is...although, AHCI is like NCQ and that only comes to fruition when you have multiple file requests going on at the same time...AHCI driver can work out of order for the requests by picking out the closest request first...it supposedly avoids thrashing from disc to disc looking for the files which leads to greater time getting the job done.
By the way. The floppy driver that you linked for me was for the previous chipset. (ICH8)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
What I find that works best when Flashing Bios is these switches for this board in this order and a added switch /E which returns you to A:\ Prompt at that time I repeat the Process and FLASH a second time to make sure that all Parameters were Overwritten and Updated properly.
AWDFLASH.EXE M629B_11.BIN /CD /CP /CC /PY /CKS /SN /WB /E
I am going to try to do something similar on my build in progress. I have a stack of Thermalright boxes patiently waiting on my desk with an HR-03+,Ultra 120EX,and both of the HR-05's, for my IP35 Pro from which I have removed the heatpipe system. Also an Antec 900 case:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by cLOUDFAn
I currently use an 80mm fan on my HR-05 and will try to put one on both if they fit, depending on if it works with a push-pull setup on the Ultra120EX.
I am debating about putting two rows of copper ramsinks on the pwm chips and mounting a 40mm delta fan beside it, to avoid cutting the heatpipe on the stock cooler and using that instead. Don't know if that would provide effective cooling to the pwm though:shrug:
If you wanna save the stock heatpipe cooler, just get a HR-09u.Quote:
Originally Posted by Retro
Is there a possibility to remove the whole pipe from the passiv cooling and replace it with something better?
Thermalright's page states it not being compatible with the ip35-pro.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
See http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/hr-09-mcl-type3.htm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
i used it before for raid and it worked!...don't know if that is true for AHCI.
well, after many hours of fooling with trying to make AHCI work...i finally conquered it.
i was overclocking pretty good...i thought my voltages were sufficient but not necessarily for a DOS windows install.
on the first couple of attempts my solo drive was not showing up in the windows setup...the post screen showed AHCI...the post screen was quick...i could not catch it correctly by using the "pause" key...i see part of it...the drive info went like a flash...could never read it.
after multiple re-configurations by plugging it into different Intel ports...it finally showed up when i enable the virtualization technology...that little change made the drive partitions show up...i made two partitions on the drive through my other OS...i then turned off the virtualization setting and that did not disrupt the AHCI from that point on.
i am thinking the vcore was a tad low and the ICHIO 1.5 was a tad low to support the overclock in DOS...on top of that, my memory timings were probably to tight...loosen those up too!
finally, i was able to use AHCI on the solo drive.
the procedure the way i see to utilize AHCI.
1. enable AHCI in the bios
2. set boot device order such as hard drive, sata drive (select drive name), floppy (if installed).
3. go into "hard disk booting priority" and move the drive to the top of the list that you are using for AHCI.
4. set sufficient vcore, CPU VTT, MCH, vdimm and ICHIO 1.5v to support your overclock...even if you run setup at default speed juice up vcore and ICHIO 1.5v just a little.
5. run loose timings during the OS install
that's it in a nutshell.;)
This board is great.
Granted I haven't done anything extreme yet, I booted right in at 400x7 to install Windows, then went back in after everything was set up to try 458x7 and again, flawless. Every RAM timing and voltage in the BIOS are bone stock except for the FSB and DDR voltage at 2.1 which I don't really know how much it needs at this point. We'll see how it does with some RAM timing tweaking.
So far rock solid board. This has been the absolute #1 issue-free system build I have ever done. I feel like I am barely tickling the thing and it loves it.
Wow very complete work. :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Do you think this might aid/fix my raid problem?
Do I install the first one on the list here?
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/2...2946uu1ov8.jpg
i am enjoying it big time!Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
i was also able to run up to 400 or so on stock voltages...for the price, i do not think it can be beat.
only two areas that i could quibble about...one is the vdrop+vdroop and the other is the heatpipe installation...you need to remove that...sit it on a flat surfac to level it...and then do my mod.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...147163&page=76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
YES!...that is the one i used!
Well all I did was replace the thermal pads with MX-1 and my temps aren't that bad in the BIOS.
How much did you drop your temps by doing that?
I read a lot of talk about vdroop too - CPU-Z says my load vcore drops as low as 1.288 with 1.350 set in the BIOS...
do you have the pro board or the non pro?
It sounds to me that AHCI is used for none raid? Is that right? My goal is to make my raid 0 array work right. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I have fairly good PWM temp w/ stock cooler+40mm fan (<60c after 1 hour prime stress test, idle ~35c)
Also
I don't think HR-09 (either U or S) will fit (it's too narrow to cover all the chips)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retro
I have both.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Why?
yes, AHCI is a non-raid setup...solo drive!Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
curious on why you were quoting cpuz voltage values...i find it unreliable except for the beta 1.4.09...besides, you have Uguru on the Pro board which gives an accurate vcore reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
Ace, did you ever have to press 'ctrl I' to set up your raid volume? There is no mention of this in the manual.
I did when I first installed vista. I had to add the drives to the volume that I wanted.
Hey just wanted to let you guys know the vdroop mod went off without a hitch and my vdroop was down to .02v from .09v, notice I said was......
I was in the process of installing the board and my case slid off of my table, I grabbed for it and missed, but I did manage to grab the wires that I soldered onto the board, not only did it rip the wires off, trace under the IC came with it so the board is dead as a doornail.
I took the board to a buddy of mine that builds AC control boards thinking he might be able to fix it because he has saved me from stupid mistakes in the past, but this time I managed to break it really well.
I have my system up and running on my AB9 non pro so at least I had a backup board, I'll be in the corner banging my head on a solid object for a bit.
I got an IP-35 pro a few days ago and have been running this overclock
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3...utestk2.th.jpg
I've tried 3.8 Gh, but even with a increase in all voltages and ram timings relaxed to 6 6 6 15 from 5 5 5 12, after about 3 minutes of Orthos i get a blue screen. I think my quad has more left in it due to the temps, but I can't seem to get any higher. Do you guys have any advice on what voltages to play with or anything else. I'm still on the stock bios, and never flashed one before, so I'm a bit scared of doing that but do you think that a newer bios would help?
thanks
:slapass:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarowah
Quote:
Originally Posted by ishamael56
You need to deal with the PWM temp, its running 93C with 100C Max and normally it is a Max of 80C, at least with BIOS versions 11.BIN, 12.B01, and 12.B02.
Ace, I was looking at the heatpipe mod and I want to greatly thank you for taking your time to post it :) I was wondering if you can tell me exactly what you bought (shopping list would be nice lol). Also, I don't think you mentioned the temp difference of before and after the mod. Thanks again man.
Look on the bright side, your solder job was real solid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarowah
I guess I need to do the heatpipe mod then, because this is with a 90mm fan sitting on my vid card pointing at the heatsink. Without that when I first ran orthos it got to 115 C before I realized and shut it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Master of None
Highly Recommended:Quote:
Originally Posted by ishamael56
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=751
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=760
LoL yeah at least something went right with the whole deal, I told my wife about it and she said "why dont you leave it alone if it isnt broken?, got a stare for a second and she said never mind, that was a stupid question".
:ROTF: ...I can imagine that stare...seen it too often. BTW, the "if it ain't broken, don't fix it quote doesn't apply to this forum :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Tarowah
if it aint broken, fix it till it is...
It's the only way to learn :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by bfox2
ACE! I'm waiting on you lol
I'm wondering how you got a PWM temp even remotely close to that high.
Granted I haven't fired up my IP35 Pro yet, but my IP35 PWM is running at 53c full load with the only mod being AC MX-1 replacing the stock thermal pad. I can't tell how effective it was - I never did a before/after test because I didn't want to take the thing apart to get back to the PWM again.
Is the Pro really that much hotter?
I also edited my previous post - 1.350 vcore in BIOS gets me 1.288v in CPU-Z. Abit EQ is the same but it rounds to 1.29v.
It's not that it's hotter, but it's just that abit failed to make sure the MOSFET HS was making good contact with the PWM. This will explain it much better, look at the last picture in the first post. Quite disturbing IMO.
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.p...20#post5195620
Yeah I removed that pad before I even started on the IP35. It was a white pad though, not sure why that one is black?
It made even contact however I replaced it with AC MX-1 on each chip. It seems to make solid contact and is tight even though I am still using the original pins and despite the paste being much thinner than the pad. PWM temps maxed out at 53c in my testing today, maybe a few degrees hotter on a hot day but nothing near the 90+ degrees that I am seeing on here.
Again this is with a modest overclock, E6550 (2.33Ghz chip) @ 458x7 for 3.2Ghz at 1.3v.
I will have to take a close look at the Pro board as well when I get that system together, which is my 2nd project.
IP35 / E6550
IP35 Pro / E6850
On a side note, you just have to love the effortless overclocking on these chips...my 3700+ San Diego really didn't like me and was so touchy to the smallest increases. This little E6550 is taking a near 1Ghz overclock without a single bump in voltage and loving it. Its even stable with EIST and C1E enabled and doesn't crash when the volts come down at idle. It's so easy it feels wrong in a way...
It sounds like your talking about taking advantage of a drunk :chicken: :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
Looks like good temps on the pwm with the heatpipe sawed-off the stock cooler.Quote:
Originally Posted by cLOUDFAn
I have some copper ramsinks on order from Xoxide which I will try first though.
None of the HR-09 series will fit an IP-35 Pro, mounted either way. I e-mailed Thermalright and asked if any of the HR-09's could be adapted to fit an IP-35 Pro and if not, were they planning on making one that would fit. I got a fast, but useless reply:
"HR-09 doesn't support IP-35 Pro. Thx for your interest in Thermalright products."
I think they may eventually make one to fit the IP-35 Pro, but who knows for sure:rolleyes:
are you on water or air?
if air then your vcore is a little bit too high imo
you need to tweak other vol settings besides vcore (you can't have vcore >1.5v while all other vols are at default)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ishamael56
As IP35 Pro is becoming more popular, I am sure TR will do something about it.
Another note on the "chopped off" PWM cooler
I tried AS5 instead of stock thermal pad
temps are similar
but I was worried that the AS5 layer wasn't thick enought to make good contact w/ all the chips
so I eventually go back to the stock thermal pad (maybe will replace it later when the push pins and pad wear out a little)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retro
Every board I've use (Epox 9npa, DFI NF4 and the IP35 mid level) have all showed high PWM temps easily above 80c on dual burns, some higher than 100c. Unless you keep your room at 70F and the vcore at stock you'll too problably get +80c on a dual burn.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
Can someone tell me how the IP-35 Pro does with 4GB of RAM now? Did they fix the previous issues with it?
I assume you mean 4X1GB. I second that question. My motherboard/cpu should be arriving by Friday. Can't wait :DQuote:
Originally Posted by zerazax
sorry, man, for what happened to your case and motherboard....i hate that when it happens to me!;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarowah
oh yeah, my wife said the same thing back years ago...i just looked at her and shook my head...LOL:rofl: :ROTF:
OH MAN!:D ...do i have to slpell it out for you...LOL:ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
i thought my posted mod on page 76 of this thread gave all the details...
the PWM temp dropped about 8-10C, approximately; maybe more....i just know it dropped significantly that i had to share the mod with everyone else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
i'm not sure about MX-1 paste but i know AS5 paste under heavy pressure can be conductive so that is why i used ceramique.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
not for AHCI setup..."ctrl I" gets you access to the setup menu for raid after you enable raid in the bios.
4x1GB is fine for me... except i feel like o/cing mem has been a little more difficult since the newest betas (after the official 11).Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
i'm going to test them again today. i replaced stock NB cooler with water now so we'll see if that helps anything at all.
the Pro board with the heatpipe mod and at least two 40mm fans added will bring your PWM temperature down to a comfortable value....in my computer case, maybe no higher than 60-63C priming all four cores..but..each computer case is different on evacuating hot air...in addition, room temp will also impact the temperature inside the case.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by scwam
what is your room temp?...are you AC'ing your room?
Anyone have this happen? I took my system down and reseated the hs with MX-2 and added 2 Antec TriCools instead of 1 San Ace. I also added a 40mm fan on top of the PMW hs. Rebooted and got a bios error that cpu had changed. Reset all my settings and it wouldn't post. Rechecked bios and I noticed that I if I now use the default ram multiplier @ 8x400 it says I am @ DDR1200. Also when in uGuru the PMW Max temp went from it's original 80c to 125c. uGuru is showing all my temps what they were before but things are just way more twitchy than they were. What do you think might have happened?
my pad was brown...it probably comes down to cost of the pad at the time they are manufacturing the boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
is the temp, 53C, that you quote, outside of the case?Quote:
It made even contact however I replaced it with AC MX-1 on each chip. It seems to make solid contact and is tight even though I am still using the original pins and despite the paste being much thinner than the pad. PWM temps maxed out at 53c in my testing today, maybe a few degrees hotter on a hot day but nothing near the 90+ degrees that I am seeing on here.
welcome to the world of INTEL!:up:Quote:
On a side note, you just have to love the effortless overclocking on these chips...my 3700+ San Diego really didn't like me and was so touchy to the smallest increases. This little E6550 is taking a near 1Ghz overclock without a single bump in voltage and loving it. Its even stable with EIST and C1E enabled and doesn't crash when the volts come down at idle....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Ya ...the Processors are great but the rest of the stuff on Intel Platform since C2D came out is unreliable and all of it has a very short life expectancy!:yepp:
I can't seem to get 3.3GHz to work, could you guys have a look at my settings and see if you would change anything?
OC GURU:
EXTERNAL CLOCK...................... - 367MHz
MULTIPLIER FACTOR.................. - x 9
DRAM SPEED (CPU:DRAM) 2:3 (Default)
PCI EXPRESS CLOCK.................. - 100MHz
VOLTAGE CONTROL:
CPU CORE VOLTAGE................... - 1.4250V
DDR2 VOLTAGE......................... - 2.300V
CPU VTT 1.2V VOLTAGE............... - 1.20V
MCH 1.25V VOLTAGE.................. - 1.25V
ICH 1.05V VOLTAGE.................. - 1.05V
ICHIO 1.5V VOLTAGE................. - 1.50V
DDR2 REFERENCE VOLTAGE............. - 0%
CPU GTLREF 0+2..................... - 67%
CPU GTLREF 1+4..................... - 67%
ADVANCED CHIPSET FEATURES:
DRAM TIMING SELECTABLE............. - MANUAL
CAS LATENCY TIME (TCL).............. - 5
RAS# TO CAS# DELAY (TRCD)........ - 5
RAS# PRECHARGE (TRP)................. - 5
PRECHARGE DELAY (TRAS).............. - 15
REFRESH CYCLE TIME (TRFC).......... - AUTO
WRITE RECOVERY TIME (TWR)........ - AUTO
WRITE TO READ DELAY (TWTR)....... - AUTO
ACT TO ACT (TRRD).................. - AUTO
COMMAND RATE....................... - 2T
PCIE COMPLIANCE MODE............... - V1.0A
PEG FORCE X1....................... - DISABLED
INIT DISPLAY FIRST................. - PCIEX
ADVANCED BIOS FEATURES / CPU FEATURES:
THERMAL CONTROL.................... - DISABLED
LIMIT CPUID MAXVAL................. - DISABLED
C1E FUNCTION....................... - DISABLED
EXECUTE DISABLE BIT................ - ENABLED
VIRTUALISATION TECHNOLOGY.......... - ENABLED
EIST FUNCTION...................... - DISABLED
PWM tops out at 61C, CPU at 53C and System 38C.
I realize I could always use more vcore, but the PWM temp is really too high for my liking already :x
Have you tried a little chipset/MCH voltage?Quote:
Originally Posted by RAdoxx
How long will 3.3GHz run before it crashes?
P.S Nice layout heres the HTML version if you can use it be my guest :D
CN
Finally got ATTO.
Raid 0 (2x 7200.10) with volume write back cache:
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/672/untitledjn7.png
Without volume write back cache:
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/135...ovolumehd0.png
Man going back to an AB9 after running the IP35 Pro is painful, I guess I should count my blessings I even had a spare board laying around but dang I cant even get this Quad stabole at 3.2ghz with this AB9.
It would crash after like 5min in Orthos. Upped MCH voltage to 1.37V, Orthos is still running (15min ;))Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Thanks for the template btw
i heard someone else complain about a bios error after reseating their hs down....and....it was said that maybe he clamped or torqued the heatsink to tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
the only other thing to do is power off...unplug the board ATX power to the mobo and cpu, clear CMOS and remove the battery...maybe a few minutes the most....you can also try removing the memory while clearing cmos.
put everything back together and fire it up to see if you get the same results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
boy, those images are small for guys with glasses.:D
why don't you download HDTune...it is a far better bench to evaluate the speed of your raid drives...2nd best is HDTach.
I just wanted to run the different hard drive programs. One person pages back wanted me to try ATTO. I didn't know what that was at the time. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Who should I contact? Intel, Seagate, or Abit about the poor HDD performance?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
ATTO is an old and probaly not a reliable bench anymore...download HDTune and then come back with a good size image so all of us can take a shot at it.:p:
don't forget to say if it is a raid setup or a solo drive setup
This is my Raid 0 array: 2x 7200.10
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/6...titled2jv4.png
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/6...ed6aef9a1c.jpg
This is the same array with volume write cache:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/2475/untitledoy2.png
The first picture is no faster than a singular drive. Yet other people don't need to enable volume write back cache to get above 100MB/s. :(
4x1G work fine for me since day1 w/ stock bios
Well i finally set up the new computer. I still need to update the bios to ver. 11 but here is what she looks like right now. The temps bother me a little for being on water. I followed AS Crem. Instructions to a "t" but i still get these wierd differences in core temp. I have C1E and ESIT dissabled in the bios ATM. If i enable those the temps drop but for some reason it "underclocks" the cpu when im not doing anything.
On a side note I booted at 2.997Ghz/333mhz, 1:1, 1.25 Vcore, 2.2 mem voltage and the temps didnt look to bad. Ran a 5minute small ftt stress test and the max temp's i saw were 47C core 0,2 42C core 1,3. Seems my cores 1 and 3 run 5C cooler than 0 and 2.
Time for the good ol' 24 burn in of the cremq. then its time to see what she will do.
Do you guys think my temps are high for being liquid?
Liquid Set up:
MPC655
MCR320 (yate loon pull config)
Dtek Fuzion
Micro Res.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0WC-2.4Ghz.jpg
So the newest BIOS's have actually made OC'ing 4 x 1 GB harder? What about the older BIOS?Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
Inside the case, side open. I should probably say that I have a down-blowing HSF, the Thermalright SI-128 and my NB and the immediate area gets some active cooling from that. I can't tell if my PWM heatsink does because I can't get my fingers back there to feel. I am at stock volts though so that is probably helping.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
BTW, AC MX-1 is completely non-electrically conductive.
Sounds good, but 2.2v is way more than the memory is going to need a 333mhz. Mine is at 460mhz with only 2.1v.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
that is strange!...Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
did you say that you removed the little white jumper off the 7200.10 drives?
i did install the raid on 2 of my 7200.10 drives and i never had to enable the write cache...did nothing to get about the same performance you show on the second image...hmmmmm...don't know what to tell you.
you need to find an savy puter guru guy to let him walk you through the setup of raid...do you have any friends like that living near you?
TBH I am the smartest with computers. My friends and family ask me for advice... I know, I know... :rofl: it seems sad... :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Abit, Intel, and Seagate support will be contacted tomorrow, to see if they have any idea. I did remove the jumper from both drives.
I need help with a decision on which motherboard to buy. I'm either looking at the Abit IP35 PRO, Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3P, or the EVGA 680i A1. There are advantages depending on the motherboard but I'm truely confused on what to get. I have the B revision of the Q6600, 4x1GB of Crucial Ballistix 6400 memory, Tuniq 120, and EVGA 8800GTX. No matter which one I choose it has to be able to work at stock settings with these components. I'm interested in overclocking but do not want to adjust the voltage settings on the CPU or NB to get extreme overclocks like some. The SLI option is nice also on the A1 board but I'm not sure if it is worth it in the long run to run SLI over just getting a high end video card. The Gigabyte board also has better sound from what I have read but I still like the IP35 PRO. I have debated over this for weeks and need to make a decison within the next few days.
SLI is not worth it unless you're playing 1900x1200 or above. Upgrading to a newer card with newer features and technology is the wiser option in the future. I also recommend the Abit IP35 Pro @ a good price. $160 AR Shipped but it's currently OOS. They should have it back instock soon enough to be eligible for the rebate. I would call them up if I were you.Quote:
Originally Posted by stormy2
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=156436
My room temp has always been hot (27 to 30c, 79f to 83F) with my resulting high pwm temps. So I know that is most of my problem. I'm going to implement you modification, but I'm a little scared. It seems to me that you have the best mod I've found compared to other people doing the same. Your 'nuts' seem to provide the least cumbersome of the mods. I'm going to use the EK waterblock thermal pads from Petra's which looks to be about 2 to 3mm thick and foamy. I admire your method.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...0_32523073.jpg
EDIT:
These pads are much smaller than I predicted. They are only about 16mm x 13mm or so. You would probably need to order 4 to 6 sets of these to cover the PWM HS. They are quite small, If you've ever seen LSD paper before, that's the size of each square (12 squares on each). They look like they will work as they are about 1.5mm thick and contain the white fiber in them.
hmm i think i may get some thermal pad for my pwm. Its the only part of the system that is still to damn hot when priming. At idel it sits about 40c, which is fine.
i think even with the bolt through mod, and ASC it's still not quite making contact. I should have left the pad on, but i chucked it in the trash:clap:
40C is a good temp if you are overclocking, which i presume you are!..how high does it go when you orthos or use prime 95 that's the question to be answered!:)Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
i would talk to abit 1st and then seagate 2nd!...forget about intel...they would tell you to talk to the mobo maker anyway.
did i ask you what bios you are using presently on the board?
C1E cuts back power to your cpu and EIST reduces the multiplier down to 6x to help with saving power by having less clocks on the cpu.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
what is your room temperature?Quote:
On a side note I booted at 2.997Ghz/333mhz, 1:1, 1.25 Vcore, 2.2 mem voltage and the temps didnt look to bad. Ran a 5minute small ftt stress test and the max temp's i saw were 47C core 0,2 42C core 1,3. Seems my cores 1 and 3 run 5C cooler than 0 and 2.
Do you guys think my temps are high for being liquid?
the temp for a 3.0 ghz stress run appears to be ok....when you go higher then you (we) will see how that water system is hacking the program.;)
don't be scared of the mod...it is quite easy to do...just use 3/4" length bolts and everything will be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by scwam
and...thanks for the compliment...once in a while the light bulb above my head lights up!...LOL:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle I have C1E and ESIT dissabled in the bios ATM. If i enable those the temps drop but for some reason it "underclocks" the cpu when im not doing anything.
C1E reduces both multiplier & voltage on my board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
CN
you have EIST disabled?
Yes EIST is disabled.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I just had a little play this morning with C1E & EIST as I have started pushing the voltage out of my comfort zone with a Q6600 & I figured if C1E worked like it used to on my 975X/G then I would be better to let it lower the voltage when the rig is doing nothing.
C1E appears to be working fine at 462 x 8 with my Q6600 but EIST makes my rig go crazy so I am leaving it off.
CN
CIE is suppose to just save power by reducing the voltage and EIST is suppose to reduce the multi....i think Abit has dorked the bios code then...look in the manual, page 2-14...a little ambigious for C1E description but EIST is quite clear!
which bios are you using?
Maybe they have done something to the BIOS or maybe the manual is wrong but I am happy with C1E reducing the multiplier & voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I am using official 11 BIOS.
Read This :shrug:
http://techreport.com/articles.x/7998/2
Quote:
C1E enhanced halt state — Introduced in the Pentium 4 500J-series processors, the C1E halt state replaces the old C1 halt state used on the Pentium 4 and most other x86 CPUs. The C1 halt state is invoked when the operating system's idle process issues a HLT command. (Windows does this constantly when not under a full load.) Entering halt state, which is a lower-power state, will cut a CPU's power consumption and heat production. Intel's new C1E halt state is also invoked by the HLT command, but it turns down the entire CPU's clock frequency (via multiplier control) and voltage in order to work its mojo. This more robust halt state requires significantly less power than the old C1 implementation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
when i read that, i say, "what is the purpose for EIST"...you know what i mean?..EIST can be eliminated the way it read there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Room Temps are 78-81 F, I live in Arizona. :down: I did some more testing last night with slightly higher clocks.
3.303 ghz
367mhz
1.35 vcore (1.26-.28) Load Vdrop is killing me :confused:
1:1 FSB DRAM
2.1 Votls RAM
1.25MCH
4-4-4-12 2t
After 4 Hours of Prime Small FTT stable the max temps i was seing were 59 core 0,1 and 53 core 2,3. Is this normal to see such a huge temp diff. between the cores? 6 C seems to be alot.
Thanks for everything...
Scott
* Sorry I had to cut the SS's up, my desktop resolution is to big to post full SS.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ykle/OC3-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ykle/OC3-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...3Dmark06-1.jpg
Link to full screenshoot: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Cykle/OC-3.jpg
There's a massive heat pad embedded into the MB at the MOSFET/CPU region. Under load, the path of least resistance for the heat flow is into this heat pad. To maximize cooling efficiency of the MOSFETs, you'll want to blow fresh air directly into this region. I would also suspect that blowing fresh air over the MOSFETs (no heat-sink installed) may further improve cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
The heat pipe design redistributes the high temperature at the NB to the MOSFET and SB regions. This will raise the average working temperature at the MOSFET and SB heat sinks. A better approach is the use of separate heat pipe at the MOSFET, NB, and SB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
I left my PWM pad on due to compression compensation from pass through bolt mod:) I sit Inverted in my Silverstone TJ06 and PWM idles around 39-41c with a enclosed case due to CoolIT Eliminator.
Is it core 1 and 3 on one die and core 2 and 4 on the other? or 1 and 2 on one and 3 and 4 on the other?
i am currently writing while Prime 95 is churning away in the background while at 3.8Ghz...coretemp 095 is reporting 60C for cores 0 & 2....and....57C for cores 1 & 3Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinCykle
i think it is prime 95 that might be causing the difference in temp...sometimes the split goes to about 4C...i am strictly a guessing here about Prime 95 be root cause of the temp difference.
For me, i am a little disappointed with this mb.
At this moment i have:
Micro 6750 @ 3.6Ghz - 1.4V - 21º idle, 45 full
Ram: Gskill 2GBHK (8500) on 4x1gb @ 2.4 / 4 - 4 - 4 - 12 - 1T (1:1 with fsb)
FSB: 450
MCH: 1.29
I try everything to try to get more than 3600 or 450 fsb and is impossible.
with 2 modules, with 4, ram @ 2.5 or 2.6 (55515), MCH @ 1.33, Vcore @ 1.55, 6750 multi from x8 to x7, everything, and its impossible, this mb doesn't admit more than 3.6 or 900 on ddr, if I try to get 1080 with 1.2 multiplier, freezes on windows after starting orthos, with 3666, freeze too, its frustrating
And I didnt see any solution, I think is a MB problem, I hope a future bios revision will try to fix this problems
Use 1:1 memory divider. Bump Vdimm to 2.1. Change timing to 5-5-5-15-2T. Run memtest86 (test #5) for one hour to check for RAM stability. Most C2D 6xx0 will top out between 3.4 and 3.5GHz on air.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kersh
I'd also recommend to update his BIOS, if s/he hasn't already (I didn't see him/her mention what version they are running).Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
See my post here.Quote:
Originally Posted by zerazax
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post2378832
As others here have mentioned, use the b11 BIOS revision.
I definitely *urge* you to lower your vDIMM. Anything over 2.3v is quite risky (I like to keep it <= 2.2v). My current timings are 4-4-4-12 @2.2v, 1015 MHz. with the 1:25 divider, although if I can bump the FSB up I'll lower back down to 5-5-5-15.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kersh
Be sure you flash to the b11 BIOS as it's the best BIOS for 4x1 GB. Also, a 120mm fan blowing over and past the memory, with the flow point towards the CPU itself, does wonders to keep both mem and the nb (northbridge) cool. Ace's mods are better yet. I replaced the stock nb thermal pad and sb white thermal grease with MX-1 (MX-2, which is even better, is now available at Petra's). That's one thing I've really come to like about the IP35 Pro--simple, inexpensive mods can yield great results.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=760
My board works great with a 1066fsb CPU & I have seen others at 4GHz with a 1333fsb cpu so I dont think the board is to blame unless you got a duff one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kersh
2 Ram modules @ 2.15v MCH:1.37v Vcore:1.62v ICH:1.12v all the rest minimum/stock.
CN