Yes they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolas
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Yes they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolas
Cosmos S has a perfect spot up front to bolt on an MCR 220 Drive. Just bolt on the hard drive cage. it leaves 3 open slots for cd/dvd. and you can also add a tripe up at the top of the case. tha'ts what I have in my current system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolas
I have two concerns about this design. One would be the shorter lifespan of a pump when compared to a rad. Will it be possible to replace the pump without replacing the whole unit? Number two would be noise, will pump vibrations resonate through the entire rad?
Would there be any issues running one of these with a second MCP355 w/ top?
Very innovative product that will create a big stirr for all them compact ( and sometimes underperforming ) all in one cooling solutions. Looking forward to some reviews
I know, I know...... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
This is great idea! Any timeframe for uk shops?
Aslo, what size is the fillport, is it 1/4 so i can mount the rad horisontaly and still fill it?
would there be any problem using the top opening as the inlet for the rad, and block the one next to the pump outlet?
that way, it should eliminate any "bad" orientation, apart from the up-side-down one.
but i wanna know what thread size is that on the fillport first.
I'm using the 220 rad / res combo. The fill port is not a 1/4 fitting. It is larger. You would need to go to your local hardware store, match the threads of the fillport cap and get some appropriate fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodkin
My current rad / res orientation is up-rite (with fill port on top) and bolted to the back of my pc via the rad box. I like the fact I don't need a stand alone reservoir. What I'm liking about the MCR drive approach, is the elimination of a lot of fittings, an internal pump inside the case and the reservoir.
Thats annoying, guess I could use a t fitting to fill itQuote:
Originally Posted by Sailindawg
My only two complaints is 1) I'm a little worried about pump vibration and 2) it takes away half the fun in building a loop. :P Otherwise it looks like a very solid product as far as I can tell.
Very nice Gabe,
Any plans for a 140mm version or one a bit thicker?
nice product would 1 MCR320-DRIVE be enought for 2 5970 to cool? never tried wc b4 so this would be a great start and easy
you can use this to go through the pci if you want to use fittings: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/71...BKT-PCI-G.html
it probably can, but your temps might be in the 50-60s instead of lower 40s with a proper setup. theres plenty of reviews out there, just look radiator reviews, this will be no different than the rad by itself used with a full kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffLo
Few quick questions...
Any plans to do a 140mm version and/or allow g1/4 mounting for barbs?
Also would it be easy to invert the design for re-tooling? If so could you make 2 mirror opposite versions to allow all mounting possibilities? Just an idle thought :).
Do you find any vibration gets transferred to the case when hard mounting the rad via the radbox? I ended up adding two spacers with O rings to the g1/4 male/male connector attaching my pump to my rad to reduce vibration.
And a sneaky one at the end - 140mm radbox planned anytime soon Gabe?
Another brilliant product - really nails the all in one market while stopping the problems associated with upgrading the apogee drive baseplate for each new cpu that comes out. Makes good quality water cooling available to a much wider audience. Far less fear involved with this kind of solution when making the transition from air to water. :up:
I have a feeling this design can be improved significantly with slight modifications...
is it safe to have it on the top of the case as long as you have the pump side hanging a little lower than the reservoir side? im talking only an inch extra here, not a full 45 degrees or anything.
How so?Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmad
Pump top. If swiftech wanted to be clever they could provide a choice of pump top attachments to the rad, allowing a much wider range of configuration possibilities. Not sure how much more expensive it would be, but certainly $10 would be well worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmad
I forsee some guys breaking out the ole Dremmel tool
and porting the bottom of the rad.:up:
But yeah i maybe could see a spacer to go in between the pump and rad.:shrug:
I rember that happened with the original AC tops when they saw the small inlet and outlet ports, results where worse performance and a nice lexan paperweight.Quote:
Originally Posted by sirheck
there is absolutely no indication that this setup would affect the life of the pump whatsoever.Quote:
Originally Posted by thelittlechef
yes you can replace the pump with any MCP350 or 355 pump. If this is a warranty, then we can replace the pump by simply removing 4 screws. by the way, the warranty is 2 years.
the pump is solidary from the rad. good insulation of the radiator from the chassis is a good idea, such as silicone gaskets, to prevent vibrations from the pump to rattle loose components in the chassis.
if you mean a second pump in series, no objection whatsoever.Quote:
Originally Posted by CedricFP
UK shops probably in 2 weeks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodkin
the fill-port is: PG11 (edited for earlier typo pg14)
not possible. you would have no circulation in half of the radiator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcng
but i wanna know what thread size is that on the fillport first.
PG14
sure, in time.Quote:
Originally Posted by affiliate13
AbsolutelyQuote:
Originally Posted by JeffLo
How you are you getting these numbers?Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
140mm see aboveQuote:
Originally Posted by PiLsY
G1/4: it already is compatible.
mirror: will look into it
mounting with radbox: less vibrations with rabox than hardmount to chassis: the plastic radbox acts as a damper - o-ring or rubber washer between the screw heads and the chassis (the ones that that forms the posts to fasten the radbox base) will also further decouple the assembly from the chassis for additional insulation - how did you install your pump to the rad and to a radbox? pic please. just curious.
yes, this is something we will be looking intoQuote:
Originally Posted by ahmad
pure speculation. too many unknown variables, which is why i recommended he check out rad reviews. low vs high fan speed could easily make 10 degree difference, a light overclock could make another 10 degrees. based on a load anywhere from 600-800W a 320 rad is probably not enough, i would recommend a second one, or some delta fans and ear plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
load will be ALWAYS less then 600W.. the rad will be fine :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
dual 5980s always below 600W? based on what exactly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
Cheers for the fast response Gabe, hence why I buy swiftech! I cant find any info on PG14. How big a problem is filling it in a heavy case when its horizontal going to be? Are there any pg14 to bsp 1/4 converters about so I can add some tube?
Edit: Just seen on your sight it cant be mounted at top of a pc case. Shame, as I am sure many people would want to do that
I think he meant PG11, not PG14.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodkin
Congratulations Gabe, on bring a new ideas to the market, I like it, it's a sweet design. :yepp:
I feel it take a brave person, a true pioneer to think out side the box, to then have the guts to back him/herself and give it a go,
and really, really big balls to stand up and say, I have made this, what do you think, do you like it.
After all, this XS crowd can be quite demanding and a little tough to satisfy.:rolleyes:
However, I do feel all in all we really do need to thank you for sticking your neck out and trying something new. So thank you :up:
As my son is counting down the days, has been for over a month now, it's 2 days to Christmas, so Gabe, I wish you and your family a very Marry Christmas and a magnanimous new year.
May your stockings be filled to the top, of whatever you need the most. :)
Have a good one champ. :up:
total load: fair enoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
GPU temps: water temp will rise for sure. On the other hand, I think that the lower thermal resistance (pin matrix) of our Epsilon blocks will really shine there.
Sorry for the typo, yes you are correct it is PG11Quote:
Originally Posted by zytrahus
Thanks! But our Thermal Engineer Stephen Mounioloux is the inventor, and he deserves all the credit. On the personal level, my biggest satisfaction in this job comes from knowing that what we do here is used and appreciated by our customers. Thanks again for confirming this!Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
any response to this question of mine, Gabe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Manicdan
^this
It can be installed and will work perfectly well this way, but 1/ you need an auxiliary reservoir, and 2/there is a risk that the pump could lose it's prime if:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodkin
1/ the level in the reservoir is sufficiently low (enough air to fill more than that half the pump cavity, which is not that much..) and
2/ you move or ship your PC someplace and that big air bubble travels to the pump and stays there.
Then you restart your system.. and the pump can't prime.
Now, the above is true for ANY liquid cooling system where the user installs the pump at the highest point of the loop, simply because the pump becomes an air trap.
Regarding mounting the radiator at an angle, then the pump is no longer at the highest point, and therefore air could travel upwards install of staying stuck in the pump, and it would work.
Understand that we are very mindful to only recommend the safest configurations to users.
Well that kills it for me...This is an amazing product, but I just wish it could be used at the top of the case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Must confess to not using a Swiftech one - got this one years ago. I do have the clearance for the swiftech one - just need to swap the rear case fan from internally mounted to externally mounted. Really fancy changing to 140mm throughout.
Tight fit using an Eheim as below:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...P1010115-1.jpg
But plenty of room when I switched to a DD CPX-Pro:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...e003-1-1-1.jpg
Jab-Tech now has these instock guys. Very good price IMO as all you need is a CPU block + some tubing. Great for system builders + people who want to be introduced to liquid cooling!
MCR320/Pump - $194.95
MCR 320/No pump - $134.95
MCR 220/No pump - $124.95
MCR 220/Pump $184.95
Wish they made a single 120 version but I'm guessing there isn't a large enough market to warrant production.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubycon
Me, too. The double and triple versions won't be feasible for rear mounting if you have bulky video cables connected to outputs in your 1st/topmost PCI-E slot.Quote:
Originally Posted by aiya
I'll have to measure and see if I could connect my cables to the bottom 2 slots of the bottom most slot and still have clearance for the hoses.
You can always use a Radbox..Quote:
Originally Posted by kevikev
Quote:
Originally Posted by aiya
If this is in answer to enough clearance between the MCR Drive and cables coming out of the expansion slot, then the comment was already assuming a Radbox would be used.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
With the Radbox and 120mm fan inbetween, how much clearance are we looking at between the backplate of the motherboard tray and the radiator itself?
The part that I'm concerned about it is:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/...507df1_o_d.jpg
The yellow line on the left hand side shows roughly where the left edge of the radiator would extend downwards and depending on how far from the backplate the radbox+120mm fan extends, it may or may not be enough clearance for the Ferrite video cables. The yellow line going across the image shows where the bottom of the radiator/pump might block another of the video output cables.
I'll have to make a cardboard cutout mockup and see for myself, unless there is a to-scale drawing I can print out of:
http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/imag...nsionsX800.jpg
so then it is confirmed that they won't be making a single radiator version?
They couldnt does a single 120 version of this design and compete price wise with other LCLC systems like the corsair H50. Maninly becuase LCLC 120 solutions use cheaper, lower end pumps. This design is meant for the 350/355 series and the pump alone costs more than an LCLC kit. The best they could do is to bring back the swiftech h20-120 and most of us in 2010 would wonder why. Even the h2-120 kit used a modded 350/355 I think. So unless they decide to get into low in pumps for the LCLC market, I dont think we will see another 120 cooling kit from swiftech again. Besides, most people are begging the LCLC players to start making 240 and 360 kits. This is of course my two cents on the subject. I'm sure Gabe will have something to say about it.
Sorry, but this is exactly why Swiftech should make a 120 version. Sure it may not be as cheap as a LCLC but it would also perform at least 2x better than a LCLC, so in the end, it'd actually be worth the money, unlike those crap units. It would also give us a viable alternative to point to for those that are interested in a LCLC and still remain somewhat cost effective, without any of the black eyes associated with LCLC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain_Harlock
Yeah, but they stopped producing it. I would have to assume its because it couldnt compete in the LCLC market with it. And since the 220 kits were just a wee bit more money for much better performance, one has to wonder why wouldnt you get the 220 or better? Of course we know that that the MCR120, a 350/355 pump (still dont know which one it had), and a decent block all combined in a short loop with only four ports will outperform any other single 120 LCLC on the market, but not at dollar to performance ratio. I mean, $70 for most LCLC compared to the old $130-$150 that the H20-120 tended to sell at. That has to be the reason the 120 line was dropped, or am I missing something here.
Actually, Swiftech still sells a H2O-120 kit. The current revision is the H2O-120 Compact, the one with the pump built into the block. The problems with those is the barbs seem to break a bit on the easy side and your sort of tied into a "certain block". Gabe sent out replacement parts for all the damaged ones I'm aware of but still, it seems like kind of a hassle, and your still tied into that same block...a 120 pump/rad combo would be the natural replacement for the Compact as it would certainly correct the "block problem".Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain_Harlock
working on it.. but the cost of our pump alone = to the cost of their kit, reason why we released the dual and triple version first. But I agree that a 120 would be a good option for very space constrained applications, and since the pump comes with it, it would always be possible to add a second rad whenever feasible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Innovation right there, thinking of the thread "whats the next innovation going to be".
I used to run this kit on an HTPC... nice kit. Unfortunately, as stated, your stuck with that (apogee?) block. It's still a nice compact little system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Any update on the 120 version gabe? I'm really looking forward to this compact version.
Relative to using a 220 or 320 drive series in conjunction with a radbox and clearance issues. When I mounted mine I used the radbox + 120X38mm Yate Loon fans. The extra width of the 38mm wide fan gives you a little more wiggle room, and if things are really tight you can use a 38mm with the rad box and regular width 120s on the bottom.
A question specifically for Gabe though. I've had my MCR Drive Series system up and running for about a week now (replaced a loop consisting of MCR220-QP, MCP655, MicroRes and Apogee GTZ). And I get a constant popping/ticking noise that seems to be coming from near the top of the radiator inside the reservoir. I'm sure it's not the pump (that was my first concern) I've got good and steady head and pressure and I actually listened to it with my daughter's stethescope (or however you spell it). I've got the 220 with the MCP350 pump that comes factory with the unit. The system appears to be fully bled at this point - i'm using clear tubing and the flow going into the Apogee GTZ block is foam and bubble free. Of course the flow coming out of the water block is disturbed and is flowing back into the inlet of the radiator. Any help you can give would be appreciated. The reservoir has been opened and topped off now twice and at this point is full to the fill hole. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, because I love the setup but this noise is driving me bonkers :(
@wevsspot
I've been running a 360 Drive since they came out. The best way to fill & bleed, is to build your loop and fill outside of the case. Put the radiator as the highest point and dangle the loop. I put the rad on the edge of a table, dangling the hoses and blocks. Fill throttling the pump motor until there is no air in the loop. To seal the rad, I top off the rad fill port to a reverse miniscus and then screw the stopper in, wiping any excess water that spills.
Now you should be good to go. Install loop back into case. The loop should be silent after that. The pinging you're referring to is a small amount of air in the loop.
Sailin - thanks for the quick response and thanks for the confirmation on the pinging noise coming from the radiator and nothing else. However, excuse my lack of "smarts" on some of the things you recommend. I'm just a simple boy from Arkansas and I'm not sure I understand your procedure and I definitely don't know what a reverse miniscus is :(
Once you build the loop outside of the case (which I did for a 24 hour leak test) how do you keep the loop sealed for installation into the rig? If I break the hoses down from the fittings I'm introducing air again right? I'm attaching a photo from my post over at OCC forums to show you how my installation looks. Any advice or clarification you can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
p.s. My reservoir is slightly higher than the cpu block mounted using a radbox and 120mm fan holes/spacers etc.
Regards,
Jerry
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4263/dscf2199z.jpg
By wevsspot, shot with FinePix S3100 at 2010-04-02
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1683/dscf2192j.jpg
By wevsspot at 2010-04-02
Wevsspot,
(face palm) I responded thinking of how I put my loop into my CM Stacker. I have the original Stacker. I have the option of putting the power supply at the top or bottom of the case. I keep my power supply at the top of the case.
I removed the back plate on the bottom of the case and pass through the blocks and hoses the opening. I keep the 360 on a rad box outside the case. It's a very simple, straight forward solution that makes for removing the loop very easy.
In your case, your power supply sits at the bottom of the case and you route the tubing through a pci slot. Thanks for the pic of your rig. I didn't realize that you had to build the loop in place.
I have tried bleeding the 360 without removing it. It takes much longer. What I did was throttle the pump on / off to move the air bubbles to the rad. I left the stopper off to see the bubbles coming up. That worked until I had very small fine bubbles. I worked those out by slightly over filling the rad, jogging the power on/off, then releasing the pressure from the rad by removing the stopper. Repeated this for about 15 minutes and repeated over a few days. I ended up getting out 95-98% of the tiniest bubbles. Every once in a while I hear one of those ticks / pings.
In my earlier post, what I meant by a reverse miniscus, was that I over filled the rad a small amount to the point of where the water was just ready to overflow from the fill port. This guaranteed that no air would get into the rad when closing the stopper.
The one draw back to Swiftech's rad / res design, is that if one builds the loop in place, it's almost impossible to remove all the air from the loop. I had a 220 rad / res and found that I really needed a separate res or T-line to remove 100% of the air from the loop.
For me, the 360 is pretty convenient, easy to remove and maintain which is what I was after. HOWEVER, it only remains that way if I use my current case. If I changed my case to something similar to your case, (knowing what I know now)I'd stick with a separate reservoir solution.
Would this set be good to use for my 3x275GTX set up? I get pretty high temps with stock air (75 to 80).
Sailin - thanks again. When I got home last night I did some research on "reverse miniscus" and kind of discovered what you meant. When I first saw the word all I remembered was when I tore my miniscus playing baseball and couldn't figure out what the heck that had to do with bleeding a water cooling line :)
Anyways, when I got home I actually did a hybrid of your idea. First thing was to try and improve tubing flow exiting the rear of the case. Fewer really sharp bends and no kinks (as of yet anyways). Then I refilled the loop to about 3/4 full in the reservoir and actually tipped my computer upwards from the rear at about a 45 degree angle to get most of the radiator slightly above the cpu block - that frickin' case with everything inside/on it is a heavy son-of-a-buck.......
Powered the pump on and off several times - then set everything upright again. Removed the fill plug and let the air bubbles escape - wiped off some foam and topped off the res until it was overflowing into a cup below the radiator (that reverse miniscus thing :)). Repeated process about five times and the loop is actually pretty darned clear now. And best of all it is silent :) Oh how I love peace and quiet in my old age.
Anyway, will probably have to repeat the procedure a few times from now, but that's ok since you enlightened me to the secret. I don't mind doing that 1/2 has much as I hated opening up my old case, having to move cooling lines from the pump, reservoir, blocks etc. just to change a frickin' video card or put in a new sound card.
I really appreciate your help.
My temps at both idle and 100% load are as good as they were with a MCR220-QP, MCP655 pump and Res. I'm sure some of that has to do with the reduction in restrictions in the loop because of the various fittings, bends etc. on my old loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by YooNiBaLL
With the MCP350 I think the key is going to be flow and head pressure. I'm not sure how well the MCP350 pump would handle the restrictions caused by three seperate water blocks.
However, you could always opt for the Drive Series Radiator without the preinstalled pump and put a MCP355 on it instead.
I guess the other major consideration will be mounting orientation and location. With this setup there is only "one" recommended default orientation and that is with the reservoir at the top, radiator in the middle and pump at the bottom. The Swiftech site shows a couple other possible orientations but they all recommend the use of an additional res placed well above the pump to make sure the pump never runs dry (it isn't a self priming pump).
If you want to hang the pump off the back of your pc using a radbox or the likes then this would be a good alternative instead of dealing with a stand alone pump or res. I'd still wait for an expert to comment on whether the stock MCP350 will play nice with a three block loop though.
@wevsspot Sidewinders will swap the mcp350 for the mcp 355 for like 5 $ or something . The option is there on the MCR drive product page .:up:
Just got my MRC 220 Drive and Apogee XT delivered to me all the way in india ! My aunt brought this down for me :p: ( sweet Aunt :D )
Thank you Gary at sidewinders for everything and awesomely quick shipping.. :)
Thank you Gabe @ swiftech for making this awesome product. This thing could really sell like hot cakes in a country like ours.
Our i7's are burning up..:yepp:
I really hope you guys do come to india soon ! :up: *hint hint* :p:
Forgive the average pictures.. i have a pretty old crappy cam.:shrug:
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5931/dsc01470.th.jpg
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2...01469xj.th.jpg
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2...c01466s.th.jpg
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/4...c01467x.th.jpg
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/1...c01472u.th.jpg
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4043/dsc01477i.th.jpg
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/4889/dsc01482.th.jpg
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/5...c01485o.th.jpg
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/7489/dsc01484.th.jpg
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7...c01471j.th.jpg
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/8...c01491p.th.jpg
Currently Flushing the rad with warm distilled water.
Should i clean this with club soda ? :shrug:
Thanks a ton guys !
This is really clever, glad to see some innovation still running strong. NICE!
Curious why the MCP350 was chosen over the 355? Granted the thermal result differences are small and I think you can modify it to 18V, I'd personally rather have the 355 to start with.
Also has the integrated pump top been modified over stock for better efficiency?
I just didn't see any pump performance PQ curves on the site. I'm guessing it would be similar to a stock MCP350, perhaps better due to the removed inlet 90.
According to Swiftech, the pump performance curves are similar between the integrated and stand alone versions of the MCP350. However, I disassembled mine on arrival to have a look at the guts and I think just based on design it probably performs slightly better than the standalone. The machining quality is fair to good, although if you had a small dremel you might be able to improve flow and reduce turbulence a little bit by putting a chamfer on the outlet channel opening (pump housing side). Other than that, no burrs, not a lot of machining tool chatter, cuts were clean, drilled holes looked good etc.
One of the benefits of using the MCP350 at 10W is that this pump is virtually silent.
I'd have to guess because Swiftech is a little bit more friendly to the cost conscient water cooler and their products are usually also beginner friendly that the 350 just made more sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Guys just a couple of questions..
1)would a DDC 3.25 fit the MCR 320 Drive ? and
2)would it be more silent than the 350 that comes on the Drive ? the 350 has a perticular whine to it that i can hear.
3) which is the most silent pump that i can use on the MCR drive series and also the most silent stand alone pump ?
Thanks a ton for the read guys
:)
Update pics of MCR 220 Drive used in LianLi Lancool case;
http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/6493/dscf2203b.jpg
By wevsspot, shot with FinePix S3100 at 2010-04-19
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/9720/dscf2209b.jpg
By wevsspot, shot with FinePix S3100 at 2010-04-19
Will the MCR320-Drive be same as using the Swiftech MCR 320 QP and MCP 350 for a i7 setup(cpu loop only)? Is it any good?
Gabe commented earlier in the thread that the combo you've described would be good even when adding a pair of GPUs to the loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by vinay
I missed that point.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevikev
Well then its very good so i can skip all the tubing problems..
Thank you..
Are replacement pumps available for this radiator system? If so, how much do they cost?
Any DDC model will fit and work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coil Spring
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/DDC32PumpTopTesting.html
According to this article, a pump top having an inlet with a 90 degree bend hurts efficiency.
Does the swiftech pump housing eliminate this problem like the other aftermarket tops?
@ Coil Spring ,
yes the inlet of the pump comes straight out of the bottom of the radiator. Its just like an after market top .
j
Gabe mentioned this was coming out as a kit? if so when? also i cant find MCR Drive in any uk online shops, only one i found was dutch.
Performance should be great on a i7, i dont think i'd put a gpu in the same loop though unless the pump was more powerful. could always add a second for the gpu.
this does look pretty damned cool! If only I hadn't already bought 2 mcp655 and a bunch of mcr's... Damn you and getting new products out before I can break the old ones! ;)
Is the Swiftech MCP350 quieter then the MCP355?
Yep, according to the Swiftech web page, it was not recommended to use the 355 in cases where you wanted low noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by james111
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow of chaos
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_...ing-Pumpe.html
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_...ing-Pumpe.html
This combo works fine and dandy in small Stacker-type cases because it's easy to install, fill and bleed. Honestly I like this idea.
is that the 350 pump or 355? i dont want the 355.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid7
Btw does this compare closely to a full custom loop in performance? i want it because it's so simple to set up. or does the pump let it down somewhat? i only have stock cooling atm.
The first link is for the Radiator on it's own,no pump you supply your own 350 or 355.
The second link is for the radiator with the pump included which is a 350, as far as i know by looking on swiftech's site the included pump is allways a 350.
I have an i7 980X, two GTX 480s and an Antec 1200 case. Would the MCP320-Drive be good enough for this CPU and the two GPUs, for running relatively high overclocks? (ie. 4.4GHz for CPU)? Air temps for my 480's are sucking bigtime, can't overclock it much at all without the temps going into 90s on full load and 100c in Unigine Heaven.... so I'm really looking for something better without too much hassle or expertise required. The MCP320-Drive seems appropriate?
Also can I use an EK Supreme HF with this setup? Or is it better to stick with the Apogee XT?
EDIT: Actually is it feasible to buy TWO MCP320-Drive's, one for CPU and UD7 northbridge, and the other for my two GTX 480s? Is that a good idea? Can both be mounted on the back of my Antec 1200 or can't you do more than 1?
awesome product! I've been having a bit of a hard time last couple weeks trying to plan out 2 loop vs 1 loop ideas for my CPU/GPU blocks. This makes life so much easier now.
Prospective buyers...... Give it a go, you wont' be disappointed. Just remember that orientation of the radiator is somewhat limited because the res and pump are integrated into the unit. The Swiftech site shows all of the approved/non-approved orientations. I've been very happy with mine. Head pressure and flow from the MCP 350 is good and it is a quiet little pump. I think the fact that the pump mounts to the radiator and creates an "aftermarket" top so to speak, really helps the performance of this system.
it sounds great and would like one to cool my i7 & 5870, but if i were to get a dual gpu on the next graphics card releases i am not sure how much that would affect temps. could add a 2nd rad but that means more connectionsQuote:
Originally Posted by wevsspot
you can daisy chain additional radiators and pumps to your heart's content. about the only consideration is that the mcp350 always has to run primed since it's a non-priming pump.
Yeah, I'm just a graph freak and like seeing test results. They probably don't want to show it because to test it...you'd have to include the radiator as part of the package. The radiator itself will have pressure drop, so the net test result would be worse than a pump by itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by wevsspot
That's not to say that it's worse than separate components though...just one of those hard to explain things where you have a combination of pump PQ performance that's already reduced in performance by a radiators restriction. That's my guess anyhow.. They could at least compare using system flow rate I guess, but that too would be a bit of a mixed bag of things. Some people would probably want you to test with an aftermarket top, etc....
I would guess it's probably better than a DDC with stock top but worse than one with a good aftermarket top. Difference pretty marginal though and not enough to really worry about.
I'd like to see a 420/360 version(able to use either 120mm fans or 140mm fans) and this would be a 140x420mm type radiator, res and pump of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Nope. Not happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Morello