Thanks for the detailed updates.. it's really nice to see it all in action, and the tips are helpful. Great execution on that mounting plate.
Thanks for the detailed updates.. it's really nice to see it all in action, and the tips are helpful. Great execution on that mounting plate.
Thanks for all the kind words of support guys :)
looks amazing man! nice job on the cutting
That panel looks great bud, and a good idea to utilize that free space in the case.
Nicely done, extremely helpful tutorials.
Magnetic dish :eek: Where did you get this?
Excellent work again! Thanks also for the new tutorials. You're making great progress.
Cheers man. I just kept it slow and steady.Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshman666
Thanks. I thought I'd never fit them in that small space :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Armitage
Cheers. The magnetic dish came from http://www.farnell.comQuote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Small update:
Been trying to turn the XSPC tops round on my DDC's and have found that the hold no longer lines up with the centre of the impeller. I basically want them oriented where the outlet I facing forwards and the wire is coming out of the right hand side of the pump.
I bought some M4, 25mm machine screws as they provide a bit more "give" than the stock ones which have wide shoulders on them.
I'll let you know how I get on. :)
Amazing craftsmanship.
:) ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Liderc
hoho, excellent work you're doing there!!! pretty amazing man! good job ;)
Thanks D0BR0! Looking forward to seeing updates on your project :)Quote:
Originally Posted by D0BR0
Very nice job so far...I would never have the patience for a build like this ;)
Yeah well I ordered somme sleeving things, but that was 2 weeks ago and... still haven't them! :( Next week I get back to work for sure. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
Hehe, it's taken nearly a year so far :(Quote:
Originally Posted by miahallen
Wow man, 2 weeks! Where did you order from?Quote:
Originally Posted by D0BR0
Just ordered from France. It took around one week, but as I ordered it to one of my mom's colleagues, it is in France (where the shipping costs are lower), and I can't go there (well if I really wanted, I could but that would take me 3 hours or more...). And my mom is on a trip until next wednesday, so I have to wait... :(
Ahh. Good plan though as it'll save a fair bit of money I'd imagine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by D0BR0
Guys, I got my sleeving from mdpc-x and shipping cost was only 6 euro :) It took 9 days to arrive and materials are excellent
sorry for advertising ;)
Well I got a little bit done before I head out of the country for two weeks :P
I got those XSPC tops turned round eventually by using ordianry stainless steel M screws to replace the shouldered screws that came with it. It took loads of attempts to get the damn thing lined up with the centre of the impeller though I'm reasonably sure they're fine now.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sp...DSC00011-6.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sp...DSC00012-7.JPG
I also got my lovely Lian-Li radiator brackets from PPCs :D
Gonna fit these babies when I get back:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sp...DSC00013-4.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sp...DSC00014-8.JPG
That's it for now :)
nice, where are you gonna fit those radiator clamps? don't really get it :D
:)Quote:
Originally Posted by D0BR0
They'll be going in the drivebays to hold the front radiator in place.
I'll then have both the fans on the door as well as the fans on the radiator (in push-pull) to cool the rad.
Ah okay, I get it now :D
Yeah I also put a P/P on the front rad, just inverted the fans on the door, as the air is coming out of the case on the front.
Anyway, looks really professionnal, personnally I did all the mountings home-made :D
I have those brackets in my v2000, holding a feser 240 with scyths perfectly in the drive bays. Great product lol.
Build is looking good, keep the updates coming
w00t, update! :D
Do you know why this brackets are of different width? I have no idea why they didn't made them identical :shrug:
And also for what those hole with plastic edging is? Fan cables I guess?
I was thinking of doing that. I'm not sure though as it may screw-up the airflow inside the case. Does it work better for you?Quote:
Originally Posted by D0BR0
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim1
Yeah I'm not sure either. One is adjustable whereas the other one isn't :SQuote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
The plastic edged hole is for the fan cables, yeah :)
This is great stuff. Giving me some idea for my setup, I think am going to "steal" that pump/rez mounting system :D
Well on the triple on the front (which is a sort of P/P with the fans on the door), there's the loop with the CPU and the whole mobo. I get 45°C on an i7 @ 4.1GHz, which imo is good. And for the airflow, with the rad on the floor pushing the air out of the case, I read that it's similar to a "sandwich" configuration of the rads, so less performance. Of course, nice airflow, but with my solution, all the air of the case is extracted, so it results in a depression inside the case, and the air is "sucked" from the outside by some of the ventilation holes. Quite a strange system I know, but that way, there's (I find) less dust inside the case, because there isn't any huge kind of air tunnel going through the whole case. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
Looking great!
I really like your Res\Pump mounting solution! :up:
Please feel free :) That's why I tried to make this worklog a sort-of tutorial to help others.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ced-G60
Cool, I'm going to bear this in mind. I may just turn the fans round on the door and reverse the fans on the other side of the rad.Quote:
Originally Posted by D0BR0
I also think it's a good idea using the front rad for the CPU and the other for the GPU. :)
Cheers man :)Quote:
Originally Posted by XKaan
Yeah, there's much more space for airflow on the front rad. Anyway, I'm gonna use those Lian Li's wheels, so that it's gonna be a bit more space between the floor and the floor of the case. :)
eponymous-
Have you had a chance to try out that SATA backplane device you got yet?
Been thinking about using one of those too, but then I saw on Newegg there were a bunch of negative reviews saying that Velociraptor drives don't work in it because they apparently changed the design or something and now it doesn't function as well.
I know you said 'with SSDs', but I'm also curious if those have worked Ok in that device or not either.
Thanks!
Awesome work,I have the same case & I love the way your build is going atm... an inspiration to me, Subsribed!
Great build, pulling a few ideas from it for my next one. Your methods are ridiculously overkill tho, but still fun to watch. Looking forward to seeing it progress
Hehe, just got back from vacation. I've still not tried the backplane yet - it's packed away under all the other crap :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
I'm not sure about Velociraptors as I've only read up on SSD's. I'd definitely check before you by though.
Thanks man :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ckool
Hehe, probably a little overkill - fun nonetheless. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwany
Now that I'm back expect to see some updates coming soon!
Wow you really got some decent tools for your build.
This build log is great for WC starters! Love it!
Thanks man :)Quote:
Originally Posted by assisterah
Remember to ask questions guys if there's something that isn't clear in this and I'll try my best to explain it.
Got a question for you:
Which drill mode did you use for cutting those radiator holes?
would hammer drill mode be better?
I guess that normal mode or wood mode. Hammer mode will make very sharp and make waved edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by assisterah
You definitely don't want to use hammer mode as this is meant for drilling into masonry and brick.Quote:
Originally Posted by assisterah
Just use the wood drilling mode, with low-speed and high-torque (low gear) and you should be fine.
I have the same case here and am going to try to mount a triple radiator in the bottom of the case just like you did... so thanks for the pictures! :yepp:
Good stuff :) It's probably the easiest method and it looks nice I think :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Linuxfan
Yeah, I like the idea of the radiator on the bottom... the air comes in the bottom and goes through the case that way, and I shouldn't have any filling problems since the the res will be higher than everything else... :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
Wish it would be that way in my Cosmos S case... the rad is on the top and the res is level with it sticking out of the back... have to tilt up the case to fill it up and get the air out.. :(
Getting the holdsaw at home depot today... :D
Are you going to paint the case?
Think the radiator fans in this build will push air out of the case, down against the floor. You will probably get less dust sucking air in front compared to suck air in bottom of case even if you have dust filters on both places.Quote:
Originally Posted by Linuxfan
Let us know how you get on :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Linuxfan
Nah, I don't think it's worth it as I'm happy with the way it looks as is.Quote:
Originally Posted by assisterah
Yeah that's right. I'll be pulling air across the radiator out through the bottom of the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by WinstonSthlm
Hi guys.
I'm going to be fitting my loops together very soon, but before I do I was wanting to ask a question to the community and see what you think:
My NB/SB and MOSFET blocks - should they go in the CPU or GPU loop and why? What's the general consensus these days?
Thanks :)
In my opinion, put everything that isnt the CPU in one loop (gpu, mosfet, nb and sb etc) in one loop, and have the other loop dedicated to the CPU only, especially since you basically have the most restrictive CPU block ever concieved, it'll work best in its own loop with nothing else to stand in its way, I have a similar setup so i've messed aroudn with this, otherwise congrtualations on a brilliant looking build so far, good luck and enjoy!
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/9549/cimg0772j.jpg
Thanks a lot!Quote:
Originally Posted by ell
I was leaning towards the GPU loop so thanks for the confirmation on that. GPU loop it is! :)
very great build.
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PaRn ssR
There'll be a big update this weekend as I've made a fair bit of progress but haven't been keeping my log updated - shame on me :shakes:
Hi guys,
So much work been done over the past few weeks so let me get started..
First task: fitting the radiator brackets, radiator gasket & fans to the rads.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00001-7.JPG
I put the radiator in place to see how it will all line up.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00002-9.JPG
As only one of the brackets has any real adjustability I had to make sure everything was lined up perfectly.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00004-8.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00005-8.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...SC00006-10.JPG
Next I mark the holes for drilling.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00007-8.JPG
I then measure the marked holes so I can duplicate it on the other side.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00009-7.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00012-8.JPG
A bit of good old masking tape...
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00013-5.JPG
Everything can then be clamped in place ready for drilling. it's always a good idea to use cardboard to prevent the clamps from marking the soft aluminium.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00014-9.JPG
A bit of filing to get rid of any loose material and we're done. In total I drilled four holes, two on each side to support each bracket.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00015-3.JPG
Next task is to fit the gasket and the fans.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00018-5.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00020-4.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00021-1.JPG
Now to do this I started at the top and gradually removed the backing paper as I stretched the gasket across the radiator. I made sure that the gasket was lined up with the edge of the mounting plate on the radiator.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00022-1.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00024-1.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00025-1.JPG
Once in place the gasket can be pressed firmly to ensure it stays in place.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00026-2.JPG
Now the fans are added.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00028-2.JPG
A quick check by spinning the blades of the fan is a good idea to see if they are hitting any part of the gasket as it has a tendency to bulge out when you tighten the fan screws. The screws needed to be fully tight for me as I'm relying on them for holding the radiator in place on both radiators.
If any material is interfering it can be carefully pushed out of the way by using a small flat screwdriver.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00029-1.JPG
Next, the rads can be installed.
Floor first:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00030-1.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00031-1.JPG
The bottom radiator is secured using bolts and washers (M4).
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00036-1.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00039-1.JPG
Now onto the front bay radiator:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00043-1.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00045.JPG
Next task: fitting my motherboard blocks :D:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00082-1.JPG
Bitspower Black Freezer AIX58NS NB/SB
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00086-1.JPG
Black Freezer MOS AMOSII POM Version (MOSFET 1)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00094-1.JPG
Bitspower Black Freezer MOS AMOSIII POM Version (MOSFET 2)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00091-1.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00097-1.JPG
The instruction manual :P
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00098-1.JPG
So, while the blocks are drying out after their rinse and blast with compressed air I can be getting on with removing that stock heatpipe/heatsink combo from the board:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00047-1.JPG
The parts covering the Southbridge and the MOSFETS are held on with clips.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00048-1.JPG
I find it best to use just my fingernails to remove these. If you use something like needle-nose pliers you risk scratching the motherboard tracks which isn't good. If this does happen, simply use some plastic seal spray which you can buy from electronics stores. This stuff will provide a transparent seal to prevent shorting or corrosion.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00049.JPG
Remove the Northbridge section with a screwdriver.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00051.JPG
The whole unit can then be carefully pried away so that the seals caused by the TIM break.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00052-1.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00053.JPG
Nasty thermal pads - aka bubble gum.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00054.JPG
Now to clean the chips and the MOSFETS.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00055.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00056-1.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00106-1.JPG
Also remember to clean the MOSFETS underneath the DIMM slots as they are cooled by the NB/SB block also.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00110.JPG
I like to clean the base of the blocks as well.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00108-1.JPG
I started by fitting the AMOSIII MOSFET block with goes at the very top of the board.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00111.JPG
The thermal pad you get with the block isn't cut to size so this needs to be done first.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00113.JPG
Now the thermal pad can be marked out.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00115.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00116.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00117.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00118.JPG
At this point I did not realize that one end of the block has two holes drilled for the bolts to go through and the one I needed to use was actually the innermost one. I had to trim the thermal pad down slightly.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00119.JPG
The block was then put in place and the bolts/washers were installed.
I found that it was best to finger-tighten the bolts so as to avoid bending the motherboard. There are no backplates on these blocks which is a shame really as I found it was very easy to bow the motherboard as shown. The pictures below show what happened when I tightened it with the Allen key on the long end which meant I had more control and less leverage and hence there was less chance of over-tightening.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00124.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00127.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00130.JPG
Again, I just finger tightened the block as this seems to hold it very well without bending the motherboard too much.
So I assumed I had finished the mounting process until I noticed this:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00135.JPG
Oh dear dear, this will not do Bitspower.
They've obviously mis-measured the block and had to re-drill another hole for mounting (that explains to the two mounting holes at one end).
If you look closely you can see that the metal end bit that's sticking out and is totally redundant is actually resting on top of a surface mount component and is shorting it!!!
This is really poor design and you don't expect this after the kind of money you pay for these things.
Luckily I noticed before I powered on and I remedied the problem with some electricians tape cut to size:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00136.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00137.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00138.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00139.JPG
I needed to replace the thermal pad as well as I don't like unmounting and then remounting with a used thermal pad. Luckily I had some left over from my Koolance GPU kits. After remounting I put the block back on and proceeded to install the AMOSII block on the other set of MOSFETS. This went much more smoothly as shown:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00140.JPG
Oh, don't forget to press any major air bubbles out of the pad! :)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00141.JPG
Now, on to the NB/SB/Memory MOSFET block!
The first step is to measure the thermal pad that will be used for those MOSFETS.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00143.JPG
I always like to allow a little bit extra either side.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00144.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00145.JPG
Next I applied the MX-2 thermal compound. This was really messy for some reason and I kept putting too little on so it left gaps. I managed to get it in the end however. I just used a cut-up credit card for spreading and the block mounting process will spread it out further.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00146.JPG
Since I was dealing with many bolts/washers here I had to tape them in place using our good friend: masking tape.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00149.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00150.JPG
The block bolted in place:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00151.JPG
And we're done!
I've included some shots of the finished board:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00153.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00154.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00155.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00156.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00157.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00158.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00160.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00161.JPG
With barbs:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00165.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00166.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00168.JPG
And that's it for now! :)
The next thing I'll be going over is the sleeving of the cables, but since this is an ongoing process I may leave it until the end and I may detail the fitting of the tubing next.
Thanks for reading.
Whew! Big update ... you're making great progress. Please keep the pics coming.
Hehe, thanks shazza :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
I'm regretting not splitting this out into two posts :P
glad to see that you're making the progress with this build :)
nice shiny mobo blocks, keep it up :up:
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
I still wish I had a better camera, my phone doesn't do justice sometimes.
Great job. I really like how the board looks with all of the blocks mounted :up:
Looking great! Thanks for the photos!
Could you get a photo of the front when you get the bay drives installed with the radiator that is installed there?
Great update eponymous!
Keep em coming :)
Cheers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by punkrockpolak
Thanks. Yeah I can do that, shouldn't be much longer before I can do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Linuxfan
Thanks a lot man!Quote:
Originally Posted by WinstonSthlm
I'm going to be sleeving cables soon guys, so I thought I'd share this link with you. They carry a huge amount of really good quality braided sleeving and it's really cheap. I've just bought 20m of the 4mm stuff!
This is mainly of use to people in the UK but I think it may be available in the US also. They seem to have a website for the US, Aus etc..
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/level5/mod...=en/449802.xml
you are very precise man, and i love your pictures. it's gonna be great pc!
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by br4d
It's taken too long so I'm really looking forward to the day it's finished.
Just while we wait for another update, here's a cheeky swan :P :
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Si...versity-31.JPG
and an angry goose:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Si...ersity-109.JPG
I feel the same with my build, you just want it to be finished and try it out but on other hand you don't want to rush something you put countless hours of work into :)Quote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
Are you only using SSDs for storage?
I'm in the process of building a dual loop PC-P80 system and I have yet to figure out where my hard disks are going! I am currently using two Raptors (3.5" ones from my old build) and then drives for storage....
I was thinking I could hide a velociraptor or two in the raised bit between the top fan and the external USB connectors, but then with a BD-RE drive I still only have one 5.25" bay free and would need somewhere to put 2-3 2TB drives to equal my current storage capacity....
My only option at present seems to be sat on top of the PSU but that would seem to be without airflow...
Hi there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkstar782
Yeah, for this system I'm only using SSD's. I have another PC with about 2.5TB of disk space that I will use as a file server.
In terms of mounting your disks, why not do what D0BRO did and use the drivebay sides for mounting your disks? (clicksey)
Excellent idea that I would never have considered, thanks! I'm tempted by SSDs for my system drive but the degredation issues still worry me, and I don't think I can justify the price of 4 X25-Ms for the capacity of two Velociraptors...
Now if only I could learn to be as patient and neat as your build; its looking amazing so far!
Hi guys.
It's been a while since I've posted stuff, because I've been in the process of moving, but I've still been doing work on Altair :)
First things first, I'll go through the sleeving I did.
I initially thought I could sleeve the wires using nothing but heat shrink but I then changed my mind as you will see...
I started off with the pumps:
Removing the Molex pins wasn't too bad and I just used a pointed piece of metal to push the fins in.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00057.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00058-1.JPG
Next, the individual wires are heatshrinked:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00067.JPG
and the two wires are then heathshrinked together:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00063-1.JPG
Always make sure that the pins are level before you do the shrinking.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00064.JPG
I put the heat gun on a medium setting for this and used the endpiece mainly to protect the table :P
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00065-1.JPG
The pins are then placed back in the housing:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00068-1.JPG
I used the same tool for the PWM wire:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00070.JPG
and we're done:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00071-1.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00073.JPG
Ok so as soon as I saw this I thought it looked immensely crappy.
The term "Epic fail" came to mind and so I decided to do this properly and buy the braided sleeving and some good quality 3:1 and 4:1 glue-lined heatshrink.
I found this guide on sleeving by Dangals very informative and I'd recommend it to anyone just starting out.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00074.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00075.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00175.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00176.JPG
Lol, looks like liquorice wheels :D
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...ice_wheels.jpg
I also bought this set of tools and then wished I hadn't as the ATX tool broke straight away. I ended up just using size 16 staples, although I did find use for the floppy drive/fan removal tool as well as the "Molex" removal tool.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00174.JPG
So, first off I used the 4mm braiding to do the PWM wires on the pump:
Measuring:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00079.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00080.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00081.JPG
I found it helpful to use a blow torch to singe the ends of the braiding after cutting which stops them fraying when you put them over the wire.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00386.JPG
I used two methods to get the braiding on the wires:
1. Attach a piece of thin wire on the end of the molex pin and use this to feed the sleeving on.
2. Just bunch the sleeving up to get it to fit over the wire.
I used option 1 for a bit then decided to switch to option 2.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00082.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00083.JPG
When it came to heatshrinking the ends of the wire closest to the pump I wanted to protect the pump from the heat of the gun, so I cut out some foil to act as a shield.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00086.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00087.JPG
Yup, that will do nicely:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/the.ep...23849274838914
I also used the reducer nozzle on the heat gun to concentrate the heat on one small area.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00089.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00095.JPG
Next the other end is done:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00092.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00094.JPG
The same method is followed for the power lines. Don't forget to fold out the fins on the molex connectors!
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00097.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00096.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00098.JPG
Ah yes, this looks way better than that nasty grey heatshrink.
Ok, so next up is the fans!
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00099.JPG
I just used the pointed tool for this..
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00100.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00100.JPG
Same procedure as above really:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00102.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00103.JPG
It was important to leave a little "flex" in the wires at the end of the connector as these will connect into a hub and may have to bend 90 degrees.
Trying to bend wire that has glue-lined heatshrink on it is impossible!
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00104.JPG
One down, five to go!
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00105.JPG
There we go:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00107.JPG
Next on to the SATA connectors (again, thanks go to Dangals for advice on how to do these):
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...0/DSC00108.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...SC00001-10.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...SC00002-10.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00003-9.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00004-9.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00005-9.JPG
Now the LED lines for the case:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...SC00006-11.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00007-9.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00331.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00332.JPG
I sleeved the fan controller next.
This unit had a nasty pass through Molex on it which had to go :P
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00017-6.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00018-6.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00019-3.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00020-5.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00023-2.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00024-2.JPG
There, much better!
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00025-2.JPG
And then the rest of the case :)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/St...DSC00011-7.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00323.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00324.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00325.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00326.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00327.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00328.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00329.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00330.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00331.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00332.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00334.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00336.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00338.JPG
Ok, so now that that was all done, I moved on to doing the PSU.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00301.JPG
Some photos just for reference in case things get mixed up :P (which they did :P).
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00302.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00303.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00304.JPG
I made a sheet of labels on some masking tape for each of the wires to make it easier to put them back in the right place when re-assembling.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00305.JPG
This isn't strictly necessary as you can use diagrams like this:
http://www.techenclave.com/imagehost...77d372edbe.jpg
I first removed the old sleeving which had been badly applied. The wires are visible through the sleeving meaning they've probably used too small a gauge of braiding.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00306.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00308.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00309.JPG
I used the ATX removal tool to remove the pins while it lasted and then just used a size 16 staple after it broke.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00306.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00317.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00319.JPG
All the wires are removed and labelled:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00322.JPG
Next the lines are sleeved:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00384.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00383.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00389.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00391.JPG
Getting the right position for the heatshrink was tricky. I didn't want too much wire on show yet I didn't want to prevent the pin from being inserted into the housing.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00394.JPG
All done (or so I thought):
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00396.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00397.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00398.JPG
After I'd done all this I decided I wasn't happy with both the stupidly long length of the 24-pin connector and also the wire that was still on show at the connector end.
I did something drastic:
Argghhhhh..chop!
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00403.JPG
Hmmm, was this a mistake, was I drunk? Who knows. But it turned out for the best as we'll see ;) It was at this point when I lost my stickers :(
As I'd removed the pins I had to transfer the numbered labels onto the sleeving and they just didn't hold.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00404.JPG
Lol...The more I look at that the more I can't believe what I did.
I did cut it at the exact length that would fit nicely in the case however, without any excess and it gave me a chance to use my favourite crimping tool :P
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00405.JPG
I re-crimped all 23 wires:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00407.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00408.JPG
Ahhh the trusty guide....
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00410.JPG
All done!
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00413.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00414.JPG
Even after all that, I still wasn't happy with the connector end, so I took al lthe connector-end heat shrink off and slid new pieces on the wire.
I found that the best method was to attach the ATX connector, and then slide the heatshrink in place and heat gun all 23 wires at once.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00390.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00461.JPG
Well I got there in the end. Oh, and I decided to get rid of that nasty 20+4 pin ATX connector..
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00416.JPG
and use a proper all-in-one 24 pin housing instead:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00439.JPG
I did the ATX EPS 12V connector the same way as above.
The PCI-E connectors weren't sleeved individually but rather all together as the additional (modular) PCI-E connectors have an in-line fuse in them which prevents you from separating the wires out.
The two PCI-E power lines that are hard wired to the PSU don't have this and could've been individually sleeved, but I wanted them to all look the same. I did however, sleeve them as a 6+2 pair rather than an 8 single as the GTX 285's need two 6-pin connectors and don't use the full 8-pins.
I made sure that the ends were bent 90 degrees so that they weren't going to stick out when fitted onto the cards.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00457.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00460.JPG
The finished article:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00466.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00464.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00465.JPG
I next went on to making the sleeved Molex connectors.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00469.JPG
I effectively made two double Molex wires for the fans and pumps and one single Molex wire for the SSD backplane:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00492.JPG
For the SSD power line, I just cut the wire to the length I needed and then re-crimped it with new Molex pins:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00494.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00497.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00500.JPG
The next step was to make a Floppy Disk power connector for my sound card - yup I said sound card. Way to go ASUS, you win the prize for using the most dumbass connector to power a card...
I just stole some connectors from my Corsair cable kit:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00474.JPG
Then cut some 20AWG wire to a decent length:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00475.JPG
Crimped it:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00476.JPG
Important: Always do a pull-test on crimps to make sure they're gonna hold ok!
Then I put the pins in the correct place in the housing.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00478.JPG
..using an existing connector to double check they're in the right place..
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00490.JPG
And there we go:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00491.JPG
All ready to power my sound card. Lol, still sounds silly.
To finish, I made a SATA power connector to go between the PSU and the DVD-Writer.
This was also cut to the correct length and I simply recycled a T-SATA Female punchdown connector for the end.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00510.JPG
I'm not happy about those wires showing so I'm going to wait until PPCS has this connector in stock and I'll stick a proper End-Cap on it.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00514.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Sw...0/DSC00526.JPG
And that's it done for now. I tested all the wires with my trusty PSU tester and all the voltages were fine.
Hope you've enjoyed this instalment. I'll have more soon, but for now I need a drink :)
Very nice m8...
Love the huge updates :cool:
nice to see update here friend :up:
i like the fact your pedantic, always making sure things are exactly how you want them. Nice job mate
Cheers man. I wish they weren't so long personally because I don't think people can be bothered to run through them all. lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Saltire
Thanks man :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Lol. Cheers :PQuote:
Originally Posted by callen_1
Man you scared the :banana::banana::banana::banana: outta me there.. just going around cutting wrist size cable strings.
glad it turned out for the best... :)
:p I scared myself too, heheQuote:
Originally Posted by Warbird
Wow, I like your detailed log and the way u used your tools, keep it up!
I'll tell you one thing, you've got balls chopping off your cables like that =P
Nice update.
Thanks for the comments guys :)
So I think it's time for another update :P. I've now installed all the tubing and the system has been running fine for a few weeks.
First up, here are some pictures of the fittings I used:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00178.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00180.JPG
Those are the Koolance 5/8 clips - fantastic product that made my life so much easier (thanks to Naekuh for this tip).
I decided to start with the GPU/NB/SB/MOSFET loop which will use the green Primochill LRT tubing :
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00186.JPG
Handy tube cutters:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00187.JPG
I next decided to make sure that all the fittings were in nice and tight by using a tea towel to tighten them. No wrenches used here! (thanks to [Koolance]Dean, Naekuh et al for this tip).
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00188.JPG
I next got a bowl of room-temp de-ionized water to clean the tubing as I fitted it and a cup of hot de-ionized water to help with the fitting.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00189.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00192.JPG
Note: Make sure the water is not too hot. I did this and it ends up ruining the tubing. If the water is too hot it makes the tubing lose some of it's rigidity and it kinks dead easily - not very good for tight bends.
The fitting of the tubing to the MOSFET blocks:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00193.JPG
Remember to put both of the clips on before fixing the other end! It's a simple thing to forget which I did more than once :P
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00194.JPG
The clips in place:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00195.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00197.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00198.JPG
The motherboard blocks all connected together:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00199.JPG
Next I installed the link between the NB/SB block and the graphics card. I had to call on a couple 45 degree fittings for this:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00201.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00202.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00203.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00204.JPG
Next up is the graphics cards, starting with the positioning of the plugs:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00207.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00208.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00209.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00210.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00211.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00212.JPG
Now the tricky bit - getting the tubing that connects the two blocks in place:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00215.JPG
I basically had to put both of the clips on and then clamp one of the clips open so that I could get the tubing on. This involved pushing the cards together to get the tubing to go on.
Remember, this is 7/16" tubing going on BP 1/2" Hi-Flow fittings.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00217.JPG
After much hassle and cards slipping around all over :P...
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00218.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00219.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00220.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00223.JPG
The motherboard in place, along with some "initial" ideas for the pump outlets and drain:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00228.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00234.JPG
Next up, it was the reservoirs' turn:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00235.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00236.JPG
And then the fitting between the reservoir and the pump:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00237.JPG
I found it helpful to use some needle-nose pliers to get the clips on as they hurt your fingers after a while:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00238.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00239.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00240.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00246.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00245.JPG
I also did the CPU reservoir->pump link a this point:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00247.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00248.JPG
Next I installed the kill-coils in place:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00250.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00254.JPG
Then the rest of the tubing was installed including the links to the radiator:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00258.JPG
I decided in the end that I wouldn't bother with a drain at the bottom of the loop near the pump outlets as it was going to be too messy.
Instead I created a fill/bleed/drain system at the top of the reservoirs using a spare port.
I also swapped out some of the barbs for some 45 fittings to get the tubing fitting more naturally.
Here are some pictures I took of the final set-up:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00353.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00354.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00356.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00357.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00358.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00359.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00360.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00362.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00365.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00367.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00368.JPG
One of my fav's :P :
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...DSC00369-1.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00370.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00371.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00372.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00373.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00375.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00376.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00377.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00380.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00381.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00382.JPG
So that's it for now :)
I'll be posting some updates on the cable management and installation of the UV lights, then I'm going to take some really good photos with a better camera of the finished system.
See you next time.
very nice :yepp::up:
very nice, but why did you cross the tubing @the cpuloop?
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyxxx
It was to match the outlet of the radiator to the inlet of the CPU block and then the outlet of the CPU block to the inlet of the reservoir. As far as I know, it's best to mount the Koolance CPU-350 with the OUT at the top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli4v
Great update pics, looking forward to more.
wow huge nice detailed update as usual!
I love this one :up:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00359.JPG
You mean 1/2" barbs with ID 7/16" tubes? You think you need clamps in this case? :)Quote:
Remember, this is 7/16" tubing going on BP 1/4" Hi-Flow fittings.
Cheers man.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Hah, well spotted :) I'll change it now :P
I nearly forgot to include some pictures of the filling & bleeding as well as the leak checks :P :
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00290.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00293.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00296.JPG
The fill/bleed/drain valves:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dctFDUOxwRw/Su...0/DSC00299.JPG
These are capped with BP Silver Shining plugs when not in use as an added precaution.
I'm really pleased with these valves actually and they were a last minute idea. They are great for filling being right at the top of the loop and also for bleeding.
When I was leak testing the system (which lasted about a week or so) I was able to just open the valves at the top of the loop every now and then to expel the air that had risen to the top.
If I want to drain the system, all I need to do is attach a pipe to the valves and turn the case on it's side so it's angled a little. Gravity should then do the rest over time. It will take a while for it to drain however - just think of a large bottle of water where there is only one end open and you are trying to get the water to flow out really quickly. This just doesn't happen as the air rushes in the same outlet to displace the water that has flowed out. You basically end up with a "glug glug" situation where the water drains out then air rushes in (and you'll see and air bubble or two); over and over. :P
I have just finished reading through your work log, you have done a really good job with it, I can see you are a detailed person.
I have read in a few other work logs that when using 1/2 barbs with 7/16 tubing that you can get an excellent seal and that clamps may not be needed.
Please don't take this the wrony way, however I am not a big fan of the Koolance clamps, (it's just the look of them) but if you feel you need them thats fine,
I do feel it could help the look if you could turn them around so you couldn't see the two tongues that stick out, it may help make the tubing look cleaner
and the over all look less busy.
A good one to try would be on the tube that joins the two GTXs cards, I do understand that this is not possible on all of the clamps.
Have a go and see what you think.
Looking forward to your next update.
but still this koolance clamps are best looking ones, especially comparing to worm or herbie ones :D
I would have to give you that one GK, they do
wow your case is looking amazing so far eponymous!! i love everything you have done so far :)
I have one question for you sir,did you have to mod anything at all in the front of the case to fit the Thermochill rad in?
Regards
ck
Lovely work! Read through your entire write up, can't wait for the next update.
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ckool
The only thing I have done to fit that radiator in the front bays was to drill some holes for the brackets - other than that it was fairly easy to fit.
Thanks man. Much appreciated :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrucci_M3
Hello.....Nice work so far.....i would like to know where did you get your waterblocks for the motherboard....the only places i can find are in the USA....so wanted to know if you imported them or did you buy them from someone here.....???? going to use it for my project going to be a tripple loop system......cpu and ram one loop.....gpus one loop....motherboard one loop....have all the pumps just need the motherboard blocks now....ash
Here is a supplier in europe, shipping is always 20 euro
http://www.it-service.be/webshop/ind...?cPath=103_568
They are a very good shop & have quick shipping.:D
I got them from ChilledPC, but there are many other places you can buy them from if you have a look in the store guide in the stickies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmerbrown
Performance PCs are great and they sometimes work out a lot cheaper even though they are in the states.
I wouldn't bother with three loops if you're building a Nehalem system (i7) as the RAM is never overvolted over 1.65 anyway so it doesn't get that hot.
You can put your GPU + Motherboard into one loop and the CPU into another loop.
As the memory management unit has now been moved from the NB to the CPU it doesn't get that hot.
well i just want to watercool the ram for the hell of it....i have corsair dominator gt ram 1866mhz and i am currently running it at 2005mhz with a timing of 7-8-7-20:D, just want to keep everything nice and cool....i have email Chilled Pc asked them if they will be stocking them again as they dont have them anymore....also have you seen a performace gain by watercooling your motherboard...Ash
Thanks will have a look :P
Have you seen the Koolance RAM 33 blocks?Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmerbrown
They look really nice & the liquid actually runs past Chips but you need to remove the heatsinks which can be a pain with Dominators, Corsair do do a watercooler for Dominator RAM.
C&CCentral stock those in the UK.
ya i have see the them you get a waterblock that be fitter to the Dominator ram found it at special tech cost 45 for the waterblock....see some people using them...think i might get that....also was think of getting another gtx260 and running sli....or maybe getting a gtx 295....dont know which would be better....whats you think...??Quote:
Originally Posted by markpg28
I dont know, only you can really answer that, a GTX260 would be cheaper & running in SLI would not be that far behind a 295, depends if you really need the extra performance or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmerbrown
If you gt a 295 you can always sell the 260.:D
Sorry Farmer, I misread your previous post. I actually got the motherboard blocks from Performance PCs as they are the only ones that stock them. I got the CPU and GPU blocks from Chilled. :)
Afaik the GTX 295 is just two GTX 260 chips. I would just get a 295 if you are looking for the best performance, but your cheapest and probably best bet is to buy another 260 as you have one already.
need more updates :) im dying to see what happens next :)