this is looking good :)
get that gpu on water
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this is looking good :)
get that gpu on water
6 fans in pull on the front.
3 fans in pull with another 2 in pull on the mobo side
2 fans up top in pull
Yup
correct, all internal. Bring air in on the front, exhaust out the rear and top.
ty. in the works, trying to decide between the GPU blocks and pick up another GTX280 since the prices are dropping. Need to rebuild the funds department for that to take place. :D
Yup same with my configuration all pulled as well :up:. That's going to be awsome 280GTX SLI :up:
hey if you say that the 2 top ones are in pull to then your blowing the hot air back inside the case ?
Or your rear panel : the exaust panel as you said? I should think that the top ones should also be push fans cause hot air raises...
BTW mate when it's done can you make a movie for me :)
I wanna hear what noise the fans made cause you got quiete alot of them hehe. Or if you got a dB meter :p
Yeah, just need another GTX280 and 2 FC blocks. Oh yeah, and a sugar-momma too. ;)
The top fans are pushing exhaust air out. The only fans that are actually "pulling" air or intake fans are those 6 on the front mounted on the two rads. Creating some negative pressure yes, but I would rather have the dust that stale heated air inside the case.
Thanks! I like that pic as well, things have hit a halt due to funding...having to spend a little extra on some other things, but the second GTX280 and FC blocks are coming (hopefully soon)!
I was wondering if MM could build this as a BTX style mobo tray layout?
You know hwere the cpu is on the lower side and the VGA cards are with the printed side up?
Are your HD's under you disc drives? Are they also air fan cooled?
Also i questioned myself with what kinda screw you fixed the 120.3's to your case? Where they with the 120.3 when you got them?
Sorry i want to know alot hehe it's for my future simmular project :P
I'm sure they can, the "stock" mobo tray could not facilitate that configuration, but I am sure Ben will work something up to accomodate...the new modular MB tray might accomplish that.
HDD's are under the optical drive. I mounted them using the Scythe Anti-Vibration HDD mounts, just needed longer M3 screws.
Fans to rad - 6-32 1.25" screws.
Front two rads to case - 6-32 .5" screws
Back Rad, 6-32 1.5" screws. These go through a few other things than just fan to rad.
Grill-|-Neoprene Washers-|-Case-|-AntiVibeMount-|-Fan-|-TC Gasket-|-Rad
No problem...ask as many questions as you need! :up:
Perhaps got a pic of those screws :p:
Those screws go all the way through your rad? Or just to the first opening cause i know from the warnings that you can damage your rad if your not carefull enough :eek:
You have chosen for the most powerfull pumps that you could get from Laing right? If the more always the better? More flow i think, but then the water can't take mutch heat or dispence more heat ot the rad if you over do it not? Then you have to stick with 1/2" tygon right cause of the pump things are 1/2"?
Is 1/2" better for performance wise then 3/8"?
Also you just drilled holes into the bottom of the case to mount the pumps???
I've read that you can change the 'flow' speeds on those pumps? So you regulate the voltage they get and that changes the speed iirc?
This might be because i'm still green behind my ears and watercooling is a new thing for me :)
Also the pumps how are they all connected? And is there a way to monitor them? Cause I can't imagine that when you boot you have to check your pumps etc :D
Does you rig has a fancontroller or you didn't pick one ? :) If you have one you made pairs out of 2 fans for connecting it onto the controller?
I know it's alot :D But much appreciated :)
Thanks :)
Which ones? Hell, I take a pic of all the different screws I used on the build.
No, the screw length is just enough to go through the pre-drilled hole on the rad and not make contact with the Rad fins or tubes. I did have a little incident where I did not measure accurately, but that has been taken care of.
I don't know if you can call the D5/MCP655 the most powerful pump available, I think the DDC3.2/MCP355 might take that crown, but I got the pumps I knew I could rely on. Another addition to this project is going to be adding Fillports and Drain lines, I might start experimenting with the DDC3.2's in that portion of the project. With the D5/MCP655 you cannot use your own fittings unless you get an aftermarket top (several in prototype phase atm), and the DDC3.2's require aftermarket tops as well. If the pump only had 3/8" Barbs, I would have modded them to take fittings.
By only a limited amount, I don't remember the thread that compared tube size to temps and flow...let me try and find that again. Ah yes, a Cathar thread, so you know the info is top notch...http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=147767
Yup, pretty much. I put masking tape (painters tape) down and laid out where I wanted the pumps. Traced around the pump brackets so I had the outline, took one of the pumps of a bracket and used that to go back in each spot where I traced to mark the spots where I would drill.
Yes, the pumps have a variable impeller speed setting, a little rotary dial on the back of the pump (Settings 1-5). The rotary dial just changes the V-A draw by the pump.
No worries mate, we all start somewhere!
I took one molex cable for my PSU and modded it slightly by removing the floppy power connector and added another molex. So the one cable is powering the Fan Controller, and all three pumps...ahh, one of the reasons to run a Single Rail PSU with modular cables. :D
I should have taken more pics of the individual steps, but I kept forgetting and just kept my mp3 player going and rocking through the work, then oh crap, I need to take pics.
It does, a Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme, 6 channels @ 30W per channel.
I took three fans or two fans depending on which ones and soldered them into a common header. I have a pic somewhere of this, I'll add that pic to the one of the screws I used.
No problem!!!! :up:
just a quick question, was planning to use that same PSU in my upcoming build, how much space is there between your PSU and your Rad fans, i know that the PSU is like 9 inches long or some craziness like that. Build looks great keep it up!
I will measure (assuming you want to know with the PSU position on the bottom opposite side of the mobo) for you. I did end up moving the PSU above the mobo, had to mount three pumps somewhere. :D
hey me again :D
Can you tell me how many meters of tubing needed in order to build it?
Also how long did you build on you system untill it booted?
Is it possible to upload some kind of movie so i can hear the noise it makes?
Thanks.
any updates? :)
if it's not a big trouble could you still photograph the screws used for attatching your rad to the case.
Thanks :yepp:
So hey Skinnee {funny nickname.. you know what the Somalis were called by the Rangers, right? lol)
Did Ben of MM ever sell you the right length of wire for the power and reset buttons?
I'll list off what I used and can probably snap a pic...sure.
I'm as thin as a rail...have had the nickname for a long time. And, I don't think I know the answer to the rangers question.
Not to me...I had to extend the length, I really did expect a little more for the amount of money I spent on the case. None of my side or top panels really line up, the mobo tray PEM nuts are off. I'll be going Lian Li or Silverstone on future builds. But I will be keeping the Ascension as my main rig.
Pick up the phone. Work the phone. I know I would.
When you say "the mobo PEM nuts are off," you are referring to the mobo tray, and that your mobo is not aligned properly? If so, did you force in your expensive video cards? Don't do that! Get it fixed.
As to the side panels and top panels, precision fits are kind of difficult, and I see that too on some Lian Lis (I have a lot of them, just no 343Bs). My two classic MMs fit flush. I had issues with my TJ07 as well, but its tiny nitpicking.
Like I said, pay your tribute to Alexander Graham Bell. Well oiled machines are silent, but the squeaky wheel on the supermarket cart gets heard throughout the large box store and gets the manager's attention!
I know I would scream my head off, even in this forum. I would post progressively louder and louder complains (hence PITA name) until everything gets fully resolved to my satisfaction.
I give retailers and manufacturers hell, regardless of who.
That power switch wire needs to be shipped to you 100% free. If it is the mobo tray that is misaligned it needs exchanging, and it should be cross shipped.
The US forces in Somalia called the locals, especially the enemy combatants, "Skinnies" largely for the same reasons you stated about your physique.
Hey when i look at your pics and i see your southbridge beeing watercooled, if you mount another 280GTX on your motherboard will it not be on top of the SB?
Cause SLI cards are packed close to each other not? Or is that only the case of you tri sli ?
In my dreams i wonder how you fixed those 2 front rads to the case :ROTF:
I've read something about rivets but you didn't use them right?:up:
I did the first time around, I am still debating on whether I'll put the SB under water or not. If I am going to run SLI, then I will definitely be putting the SB under water.
Thats the case with Tri-SLI, the barbs on the SB just dont provide enoug room for even a single slot card to fit. If Eddy would maked the SB block a little longer, 6-8MM, that would provide enough room. I have yet to see if a DD block would do the trick or not.
I used 6-32 x 1/2" Socket Head Cap screws to mount the rads to the front of the case, I also have a fan vibration damper (the cheap ones) in between the case and the rad, so 3/8" just wasn't quite enough. I used socket head cap screws everywhere, ranging from 3/8" all the way to 1.5".
I did not use rivet nuts, I have them sitting here along with a Rivet Nut setter, but I just couldn't do that to my rads, it wasn't needed with a 6-32 tap.
hey skinnee
thanks for helping me out again hehe.
But those screw look awfull long to me?
Or is the case + damping material + rad so tick that you needed such long ones?
Thats not my pic...I snagged one off google image for "illustration purposes only" to show what I meant by socket head cap screws. I have no idea how long those are, but I do know they are not 6-32 either.
mkay sorry my bad :)
So they are 1,27 cm then ? ( 1/2" ) :confused:
- And i've seen something else what makes my question in the head how you mounted the HD's in your 5.25" bays?
Mountain mod mounting tool or something like that?
- Also nice to see that you are using a rheobus extreme. You modded + sleeved the rad fans per 2 I guess??
So you have 4 pairs of wires then to connect to the fancontroller i presume :D
But my question here is what did you do with the cable of the last fan of a rad?
- And did you used up the last fancontroller plug to?
Thanks again Skinnee :up:
[QUOTE=skinnee;3122384]Yeah, just need another GTX280 and 2 FC blocks. Oh yeah, and a sugar-momma too. ;)
I could do with a 'sugar-momma' any idea where I can get hold of one? :rofl:
Nice work BTW! :up:
No worries mate.
Correct, 1/2" = 1.27cm
I used the Scythe Stabilizer mounting kit, though I didn't use the plates, just the anti-vibe screws with M3 5/8" (1.5875cm) screws to attach the anti-vibe mounts to the drive bay. I would link to the M3 screws, but I picked those up locally. This way I kept the MM drive bay cover up front but had enough room to mount the HDD's. For all of the other bay devices I used 3/8" (0.9525cm) or 1/4" (0.6325cm) flat socket head screws from Fastener Express
For the rads, I connected all three fans to one header, sleaved the entire length and heatshrinked where each set of fan wires connected. The top panel has two fans, I soldered the one set of fan wires into the second and extended the run.
I actually have 5, one connecter for each radiator, the top panel, then one fan from the back panel. The other fan on the mobo trays connects to the mobo.
I have all three fans on the radiator connecting to one common header.
I have one open rheobus on the fan controller.
No problem! :up:
Mutch appriciated Skinnee:clap::clap::clap:
Nice build. I see you used Feser 1 uv dye, did you use any other additive?
PT_nuke, I have not seen any ill effects. But I am currently down, mobo went back on RMA.
For all you MM owners, I strongly suggest lining the mobo tray with 1mm-2mm thick neoprene. The shorter mobo standoffs and backplates (CPU, NB, SB and Mosfets) are not a good situation.
That doesn't sound good. I'll keep an eye on that when I mount. I'm a bit leery of the neoprene because even the tiny bit of air running under there helps and the neoprene would act as a thermal insulator as well as an electrical one. But heat would be better than a short.Quote:
For all you MM owners, I strongly suggest lining the mobo tray with 1mm-2mm thick neoprene. The shorter mobo standoffs and backplates (CPU, NB, SB and Mosfets) are not a good situation.
Wonder if Ben needs to have a look into modifying the mobo tray :(
Keep an eye on it, its extremely close for the spots I could see. I was using backplates on my NB and SB, couldn't see if those were touching or not.
Thats why I suggest a very thing layer (1mm-2mm) or some clear mylar just under the backplates...just to be sure.
Well, I haven't had any problems with it touching. And even if the backplates did touch, it shouldn't cause a problem. Maybe a thin layer on the backplate itself?
Definitely wouldn't hurt.
Next time you have your mobo tray in a spot you can check take a look and let me know what you see.
Black vinyl (or wide electrical) tape in the few spots would be invisible under the mobo and would likely insure against any issues providing poky parts weren't sticking through the tape.
For MMs, you should use $100 bills as insulation material ? LOL
:ROTF:
Panda fur, lion manes. Did you gents get woken up a little early perhaps? Or is work really that boring...? :rofl:
im not even sure they have a job, theyre like 24/7 on the forum :P
Oh, we have jobs...
To rid the world of stupid, one idiot at a time! Its a thankless job really.
Work.. work is ... yawn... what work... ?
I was thinking about these "nothing is too good for my MM case" thoughts as I was drilling some holes in it yesterday...
I do appreciate the looks, and I'm going to do some nice things to the case, but for things that are out of sight, or fit the need of practicality (drilled holes), then I do what's needed for the task at hand. I like the looks, but the biggest thing I think of with the MM case is just a huge amount of practicality. Need more cooling say for 2 cpu's a year or two down the line? Add it, the MM case can fit a larger mobo, or more rads with ease. There is ROOM, outright clear space to work in, to drop in some new hardrives if you choose down the line. And unlike many MM case builders I don't want to fill all that empty space. I prefer to have space to fit things later, to add or change things around later all within this same case.
So no $100 bills for me. I like the looks yes, but the practicality is king for me.
I think you're missing our heavy sarcasm.
Anemone,
I need to come up to Boston and bring you a couple of Sam Adams.
Part of having fun is being silly :)
Are you making fun of my use of :up:
I hope that the guys @ MM can do a revision of the case :D
longer motherboard standoofs and longer power + led wires :D
If I could bold the little guy I would. ;)
How you like me now, B.? haha
IanY that'd be great to do someday. Sorry if I mistook the silly factor - was a bit tired this morning after doing Dad duty with my 16 month old early am.
I have to ask, does anyone look at this case and just think of the options that are available down the road? With most cases you are often going "well if I wanted to put xxx in, I'd probably have to move that, rewire that and maybe stick it over in that space right there". With MM, you just look at what you want and decide what wall or floor to attach it to, end of problem. I don't want to exaggerate, but you could a reasonably sized phase system in the Ascension, 2 1.2+kw psu's, and who knows what else.
Just love it.
Thats what I did...was modding fans anyway...
just another couple inches of wire, two solder points and some heatshrink each. Much easier than picking up the phone and requesting new switches and led's.
@Astratuner
All of the stuff I mentioned is minor. Hell, just think of the mods you have to do on a 343B to get a triple loop up and running. If case modding and modding in general is not your cup of tea, you might be in for a world of hurt and disappointment getting into WC'ing in the first place.
Anemone,
I fully understand the Dad duty thing. I have a 40 month old myself, and he's still doing the diaper thing, except with an attitude problem.
I wished I saw things the same way you do with MM. I find space to be a premium, and I find it kind of annoying. But most of it is me and my dumb ass ideas.
Regards.
haha just gave me an image of my son crawling inside the empty case and making it his "fort" :)
And yes, EVEN with the MM, it is very easy to "spend" the space you have. Sounds like you are heading towards building a "room" to house a pc, lol!
Its not that big.
Although, it is a perfect place to hide after I have pissed off the wife. ;)
:yepp:
I'm looking at those 6 fan holes with thermochill spacing going I've got one PA120.3 which i'd mount on the back, but id't be such a shame not to fill the front 3 holes too... Heck, i then i could run dual loops easy, there's room for anything down there!:up:
Recieved the email yesterday, Mobo RMA is all set, package is en route back to me!
Crap, now I gotta get off my duff and do a bunch of stuff!
:up:
wtf you do with 9600gt?:confused:
Run my second display.
No, was really starting to like the board. I am 50/50 on exactly what happened...but I am leaning towards grounding out on the mobo tray.
I have that issue covered so it won't happen again. :up:
Got my board back!
Added a layer of mylar to the mobo tray. Glad I did, because the CPU backplate (Thermalright) does contact the mobo tray.
Will be firing it back up shortly, although I won't be putting the NB, SB and Mosfets under water until after I put the board through stability testing.
didn't the d-tek came with a backplate???
I'd bet a thin plastic (mylar?) report cover from Staples, cut up to the right size would do the trick. A leather/hole punch could make the screw holes easy enough.
I used some double thick (about 1mm) mylar sheets, I'm not exactly sure on the kind...I'll try and find the tag that was on the sheet.
And to be truthfully honest, I got it at Jo-Ann Fabrics. They have all sorts of mylar in their scrapbooking section. Apparently mylar sheets are a major part of scrapbooking, because they had tons of it.
Hey R3, you can get some pink mylar for your rig too!
Good to hear you got the board back. Good luck with the stress testing :)
Most likely Acetate, not mylar.
Skinnee, did you get this thing done yet? I want to see it!
Yeah, I just quit doing photo updates. I might throw another set of photos up when I change out the Chipset and Mosfet blocks, or wait until I get the GTX280's strapped with DD Tietons.
Considering sending those Tietons back to DD to get them chromed? :)
Haven't ordered them yet...but yes, I will be going after the nickel plated Tietons. After seeing them in DB's Daywalker build I just can't resist...and I like the look of copper too!
The disappointment I've had with EK blocks and the growing number of reports that the EK blocks just aren't working for the GTX280's sealed the deal, DD's FTW! :up:
Fessing up is fine, only took several of us point out problems for that confession.
My fanboy list is slightly different than yours, the EK GTX200 series block is not the only complaint I have with EK. But, I am a grumpy little bastard and I will choose to spend my $$$ on the companies that have taken care of me when I point out a problem...the same thing I expect you to do.
I give Eddy props for that, but that does not change my opinion.
I have quite a list here...but for example, the threads on the reservoirs were horrible, I had to re-tap them and the Tri-SLI oops for the Asus SIIE. Anyhow, I know Eddy is a stand-up guy, I'm not debating that.
Its personal preference I know, the big thing for me is DD's support, you can call them up and throw questions at them and they are glad to help. DD also has a massive list of folks they sponsor...I don't know of a single sponsorship by EK. For me, DD's support and involvement in the community cannot be touched by many of manufacturers.
See this where we disagree, I will gladly express my opinion of a company regardless of what others opinions of that company may be. For every person that see's my opinion as a "bash", another will find that opionion helpful or inline with their own thinking. Same as you expressing your like for vendors/manufacturers that "bash".
Never know...they might, but I'm not talking about Koolance. I can honestly say I will never purchase a Koolance product.
I have never come after you for an opinion you have expressed even though I may disagree with it, I go by the old saying which my old man taught me long ago..."Opinions are like A:banana::banana:holes, everybody has one."
:up:
So do we get to see pics with just plain water in the loops?
I don't know...not really sure if I'm going to take more pics or not. Starting to work on my test and benching setup now.
drain valves are going in....
http://photos.skinnee-industries.com...DrainValve.jpg
WHOAAA a picture!
LOL... :rofl:
Yeah, I might sprinkle a pic in now and then. I still have a ways to go before I consider the build "done", and who knows there might even be some UV shots. I decided to make this build more show and just have my bench and test rigs be down and dirty.
Aww man that's my idea! :eek:
Great minds think alike my man... :cool:
I figured it was time for a thread necromance, the parts from these photos and a whole lote of murderMod sleeving to make their way into my case over the holiday break.
http://www.skinnee-industries.com/ph...u-block_01.jpg
http://www.skinnee-industries.com/ph...u-block_02.jpg
Shots before these go on the test bench...
http://www.skinnee-industries.com/ph...ld/chipset.jpg