Mr. Grinch,
You have the most lovely daughters. Your photography skills only make them all the more pretty.
Mr. Grinch,
You have the most lovely daughters. Your photography skills only make them all the more pretty.
ahhh,well,ahem...I got a 3 year old Canon A70..:shakes:
Very nice setup you have there. Tho personally I find the coolsleeves ugly :(
Nice build massa. I also have the same enclosure, at the moment sitting in the workshop waiting to be butchered ^^
Very useful to see a real life application of this quality before I start hacking and slashing...
I'm also a fan of Bulgin switches (I put them everywhere that I need a bit of subtle bling), but I have a little thorn in my side.
I've never found switches like these anodized in black (I suppose is self defeating having an anti-vandalic switch that will lose it's coating after the first week of heavy battering :p: ).
Does anyone know where I could source such thing?
thank you very much..:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
still decent...:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Movieman
Thx! I didn't like coolsleeves either but this turned out pretty good, imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmer411
Believe me I also looked for that anodized black bulgin switch. No where to be found.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
I hope you'll post pics of your install. I'd like to see what others are doing to their 343B. I didn't have to butcher mine much, infact hardly at all.
I thought that much, because Bulgin switches are made of SS, and if my memory serves me well the process of anodizing SS differs greatly of the process used with AL, and the result's durability is questionable to say the least.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
However, I'd like to find an alternative to the stock push buttons because I don't particularly like them.
I will, but it will take a while. The whole mod is still on the drawing board, because of this never ending fight between what I'd like to use and what, being realistic, I can source.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
Edit: Wooohoooo!!!! I haven't found black Bulgin switches, but I've found black aluminium (housing and actuator) anti vandal switches, flush mount, illuminated or not. Unfortunately they only make the illuminated rings in black or green, not blue or white, but still...
Sometimes seeking help in other sub-forums yields good results ^^
IanY: Since you have 2 of these, does any one or all of yours run hot? I find my 3007-HC to be the hottest in the system. The room gets warmed up, too warm for the summer SoCal heat, after a few minutes the LCD is turned on. Anyway to watercool these montsters? :lol2:Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
They are in the same room but not next to each other. They are on tables up against seperate room walls. They are hot monitors, but I recall I switched over from a 21 inch and a 24 inch CRT, so they are nowhere as hot as the old CRTs (Sonys). Sorry that I cannot lend you comfort against taming the heat, and in fact, the whole room of electronics creates somewhat of a sauna. I cool the room perpetually with a wall unit airconditioner that I run in fan mode in the fall and in the spring. In the summer, its unbearable without the A/C on because the humidity in teh East is obnoxious (even compared to So. Cal., and I lived there before for one year). Its only in the middle of winter (remember that this is New England here) that the room is comfortable in terms of temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
Dang... Nice build :D
And so many people here with all the expensive hobbies like me... I feel so at home... lol
BTW I have a Minolta 7D with far too many lens's and accesories... problem is I wish i would have known they would sell out to Sony so soon after my purchase... theres $10k of stuff I wont get back...
So now looking at getting a D200... dad has one adn makes me jealous everytime I am over...
See, this is how I can tell you're whipped! A real man would've kept both 3007's for himself, and given his wife the ol' 15" CRT! :yepp:
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bun-Bun
Along with the D200, I recommend the 18-200 f/3.5-5.6G AF-S with VRII. Its a good lens at a very decent price. There is also the 18-135 mm that is slightly cheaper. The SB-600 or SB-800 speedlight is a good complement.
Wise man say.. dog house by shed not so comfortable and warm/cool as bedroom...Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7boricua
Older wise man say.. one 3007WFP not bad when old wise man no pay for it... guess who paid for it :)
Very old wise man say.. 15 inch CRT ... no access to basic needs... big problem...
yeah my dad also has the 18-200 VR... man I love that combo. Currently my fav's with the 7D are 17-35 and 24-105.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
Dad actually has a spare D70s kicking around... might go pick up a 18-200 and just use his D70s until I can get the D200...
:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
You can get anti vandal switches in many colors . including the blue lighted ones. Google is your friend.
http://www.globalspec.com/FeaturedPr...Switch/37784/1
:rofl: You are very wise indeed, my friend.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
I envy Nikonians for their 18-200 VR. I wish Canon would produce a lens with the same focal ranges, at 2.8 and with image stabilizer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bun-Bun
Thanks for the input.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle 1
See, the problem wasn't finding a manufacturer that would produce the kind of switches I wanted.
The problem was sourcing them in the UK and in single figure quantities.
But but this is not a Bulgin vandal swtich. We're looking for a Bulgin with anodized or aluminum black body/frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle 1
Which unfortunately doesn't exist.+Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
Bulgin's anti vandal switches are made of SS, and due to the differences in the process (I don't even know if with SS using the term anodizing is correct or not), the end result's durability is not very good. And having an anti vandal product that's going to look tatty in a week is not a good selling point :P
Anyway, instead of searching for the impossible, I settled for a manufacturer called Saia-Burgess.
They do a nice range of black anodized aluminium anti vandal switches, that fit my aesthetic criteria, and are available through RS Components, which means I will have to pay a premium but I won't have to buy 1000 :D
I hope you have better luck with your remote than I do. I'm not sure which model you have, but I purchased the Logisys remote a long time ago. The interference with other electronic components in the room (not even the PC itself) caused me to rethink about using it. I'm not sure if i got a defective model or if I should have purchased one from a different company like yours.
Mjassbong... nice setup. I'm working on a three loop system in the same case but I'm converting the mobo to a horizontal setup. While I'll be usuing dual rads, I'm curious... how much clearance is there above and below the PA120.3? Is the rad basically resting on the top of the rivets for the front casters and the pics you show of the top is therefore illustrative of how much net clearance you have?
Get P30 into it and 1333 here we come.
Get your vitamins Here and P30 is out today.
All this talk about 5D's, 30D's XTI's and other top notch photography gear has my Rebel XT feeling a bit inadequate. It has asked me to ask you to cease this behavior.
P.S. My Rebel GT has also started talking about suicide.:shrug:
RS Components stock no. is 665-635.Quote:
Originally Posted by spotswood
However, I just realized I have to double check the dimensions of the original mounting hole, because this one is for 16.2mm hole, not 19mm like the Bulgin.
Anyway, this will have to wait, time for work...
:rofl: :ROTF: :clap: ...it's all good ...:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I got the same Logisys remote as you do, purchased over a year ago. I don't seemt to have any problem with interference. The only electronics in it's vicinity are the PC itself, Klipsch PC speakers, the 30" Dell and a TV. What kind of interference are you getting?Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
Thx! I really like to see your setup with the horizontal mobo mounting.Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualrain
There isn't much clearance at the bottom of the rad if you let it rest on the caster rivets like I did on mine. However, if you remove the bays top plate and not re-use it unlike I did, you can mount the rad about another 1/2 to 3/4" higher.
Die Rebels! Die! :D j/kQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
The Rebels can still play with the 30Ds and 5Ds. I know a few pro photogs who has a Rebel as backup.
Coolpix FTW just kidding :) Because that's all I know how to use properly <- full noob auto focus :)
mjassbong...sweet built i must say :up: ...a coupla questions tho'
1) you mentioned replacing the PCP&C 1kw (length=23cm) for an Ultra X3, was it bec it didnt fit with the pa120.3, u reckon it'll fit a pa120.3 (push pull with 38mm fans) with a 22cm psu?
2) havent seen an actual 343b, so im not too clear abt u removing the top bay panel, whats that for anyway, keep the top panel frm flexing?
Thx
My first portal into digital world was a Coolpix 990 - great camera. Then it got stolen.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
Hey Mjassbong,
I gotta say, in order to get ready for some of my posts here at Xtreme, I looked at a great many pictures and components, and yours may take the cake. Seriously, hats off to you!
A few questions if you dont mind:
1 How long once you had all the components on hand did it take to get all the stuff in the case and fully set up for first boot?
2 If it is not a secret, how much did all that cost? Do you live under an overpass now that you own the best rig on the planet?
3 Could you give us a few HD Tach numbers on the RAID 0 x4 SCSI setup? I have seen some testing of RAID 0 with 4 enterprise drives at the techreport, but never really saw any large difference over RAID 0 with 2 Raptors. How much better is it?
It is time for you to enter that suckka into some mod contests and start taking home the cash!
Jay
Those SCSI drives arnt for speed (although they will be faster due to the better controller) they are meant for reliability.Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhall0315
Sure you can go buy a couple SATA drives and put them in raid and get similar performance but you don't have the Scalability and Reliability that SCSI controllers and drives provide...
But yes he does have a very impressive rig...
In what sense? Not trying to be argumentative, but we use both SCSI and SATA file storage/sever and RAID systems in our lab with Red Hat and Debian and for the most part, none of us in the lab can tell a difference. We seem to get much more bang for the buck from simple 250 GB Caviar drives. Care to add a bit more info?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bun-Bun
If we could all get more folks behind projects like Ubuntu, the computing road ahead will be better for us all,
Jay
Jay
[1]Quote:
Originally Posted by cablesguy
The PCP&C 1kw will fit with a PA120.3 mounted but will leave no room for the PSU cables and running tubes to the rad. The Ultra X3 is 19cm in lenght and there are 2 things that helped with the clearance between the psu and the rad. (1) X3 modular cables are thin and flexible. I managed to tuck some of the cables underneath the psu. (2) I had to cut both the top and bottom fan shrouds from the LL343B Fan Module so that the PA120.3 can be mounted further toward the front, providing about another 1.5" of clearance.
Cut along red line to top (shown) and bottom of this fan module. Result is image on the right.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...NMODULE_01.jpg http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...55_Cropped.jpg
With your 22cm psu, it should fit with a PA120.3 push+pull config. provided you mod the 3x5.25 Fan Module by cutting the shrouds. OR, get this bay module instead:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3704
One more additional option is to mount the rad with barbs at the top if there's not enough clearance to run tubes at the bottom.
[2]
I should call that piece plate instead of panel. Yes, that top plate is to keep the bay cage firm. But once you mounted a rad, it is very firm even without that top plate.
For the most part you won't be able to tell a difference with smaller raids. And yes simple drives do give the best bang for your buck (although I wouldn't trust my data to a Caviar drive) The newest Seagates give you the best bang for your buck... which is why I got them over Raptors and got a X-Fi Elite Pro instead...Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhall0315
Where the benefit to SCSI comes in is when you have large raids (5+ drives) and have a lot of simataneous access to those drives.
For example here at work we run 10 76 GB SCSI drives in raid 5 for our file server. At any given time there is at least 150 people accessing that raid. Currently SCSI controllers can handle that way better then SATA controllers and offload almost (if not all) all of the load from the CPU. Why do you think there are SCSI controllers out there with P4 equiv. processors and 2+ GB of ram?
Then there is the reliability factor... SCSI drives and controllers are plain just built to last. Run two servers... one with SATA drives and one with SCSI drives... the SCSI server will outlast the SATA one by a long shot. There is a 4 x 36GB Raid Tower sitting here that as been used for over 5 years with constant daily access without even the slightest hitch. Don't see that with SATA...
Is that to say SATA is incapable of all that... no... The technology just has not matured enough yet. Gotta think about how long SCSI has been around... SATA is still an infant in comparison.
Is that also to say SCSI is worth it for everyone? No... I don't use SCSI... I use SATA at home. I have a 1.5 TB raid 5 on my new server made up of SATA Seagates. And I use an external drive for backup... good enough. SCSI is more for mission critical servers that can't afford even the slightest bit of down time. Such as work here where up to 300 employee's coudl be caused to not be able to work due to a Server problem.
Thanks very much. I never thought about entering any contests. The built was out of personal enjoyment and for my own use. But now I may submit this to NV SLIzone rig of the month :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jayhall0315
1. Once I had all of the components and determined the components placement inside the case, I'd say it took me about 3 weekends to set it all up. The minor details, such as cable sleevings, case mods, lightings, etc. took a lot of time.
2. LOL! Fortunately I still have a roof over my head. But ever since this rig was completed, my meals consist of only Cup O'noodles (j/k). This rig costs me between $4500 to $5k with the Dell 30" but excluding the following because they were migrated from my previous system:
- SCSI setup and SATA drives
- Plextor DVD
- 1 x PA120.3
- D5 pump
3. There are alot of benches with comparisons between various enterprise SCSI drives, most notably Seagate, Maxtor and Fujitsu at storagereview.com. There are also benches comparing between Raptors and SCSI. Here's direct link: http://www.storagereview.com/WD1500ADFD.sr?page=0%2C0
But I will do some benches of my own and will include HD performances along with 3dmark06 on my SLI set up.
Bub-Bun: Well put! I've used SCSI since the days of Ultra2 to now at Ultra320 and never once did any of the drives ever failed. I've set up servers at home using IDE RAID and had numerous drive failures.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bun-Bun
I agree that SCSI is not for everyone, especially at home for mostly gaming. Where you see SCSI shining performance is in the server environment with multiple users and multiple instant file access. Then why am I using SCSI? Well (1) for reliability, (2) video editing?, (3) I got the drivess off Ebay for almost the same price of a Raptor. I even got a great deal on the controller. So, why not SCSI eventhough I have to deal with heat? :)
mjassbong,
What a beautiful setup!!
I have spent a couple of weeks looking at all kinds of cases and as I read your writeup, it became clear that this is the case for me.
I will be utilizing two MCR-320 Radiators for the two loops. I'll mount the first one on the right side vertically, like you did, but where do you suggest mounting the 2nd MCR-320? It looks like the radiator would be too long to mount on the removable panel on top.
The system will utilize two CDROMs and a 5.25" fan controller. That will be mounted on the left side. The other question is where can I mount the six hard drives? I suppose I could mount them in an internal cage somewhere.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Rick
Cascade Rick,
If you absolutely must have optical drives, then you can use a MCR320 on the right, a MCR220 on the left and a MCR220 up top. The case has an optional top panel designed to fit an MCR220 perfectly. Mjassbong chose to use Thermochill rads, so the optional top radiator panel cannot be used.
I was the person who talked Mjassbong out of optical drives. This is the day of USB2 and Firewire2, not to mention other options such as eSata2, SAS2 and Ultra3Scsi. Mjassbong has his dvdrw drive in an external case that sits on his desktop. That is what I would recommend to you.
As for HDDs, I hinted to Mjassbong that he should look at the Mountain Mods HDD brackets, and he heeded my advice. That is what I suggest to mount six HDDs. If more HDDs are needed, more MM HDD brackets can be requisitioned.
Cheers.
IanY,
Yeah, that case is so universial, you can do just about anything with it. I suppose I could use two of the MCR220s and not have to cut any metal.
Now, I just need to find those MM HDD brackets.
Here are the two loops I am thinking about implementing using two MCR220s:
Loop1: Res->Petra Pump->MCR220->MCR220->CPU->PWM->Res
Loop2: Res->Petra Pump->MCR320->NB->SB->GTX->Res
Regards,
Rick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cascades
Cascades Rick,
The MM HDD brackets are easily found and readily available. Buy them here for cheap. I suggest black ones to blend in with the LL case.
http://www.mountainmods.com/index.php?cPath=21_34_65
You can use two MCR220s and one MCR320, and yet use up to three more PA120.1s if you deem necessary. All that without cutting anything. Alternatively, as I suggested, you can use two MCR320s, one MCR220 and up to three MCR120QPs or three PA120.1s. More radiators are even possible with a little imagination, subject to your budget, which probably is unlimited.
I suggest three loops. I suggest not mixing anything with the CPU.
res>pump>MCR320>cpu>res
res>pump>MCR320>gpu>res
res>pump>NB>SB>pwm>res
Possibilities are limitless and you can even break the pwm from the NB/SB. If you have the budget, we have the way :)
Regards.
IanY: You are pretty much a part of soul and spirit of this system. You are now officially my hardware consultant :)
Cascades: What IanY said. You can get the brackets from mountainmods.com. I had 6 drives also (4 SCSIs and 2 SATAs) but had to sacrifice 1 SATA because of space. After the build was completed, again with another IanY suggestion, there is a way for me to add that 1 left-over drive. I could have installed 2 more sets of MM brackets on the main components side and have a total of 12 drives but I chose not to. I wanted to keep that side clean at all cost.
As of right now, that extra drive is externally connected to a SATA port on the back of the Striker board.
These are what I had to give up.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...BayDevices.jpg
For this.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...CandEX-127.jpg
Not one regret!
Hey.. that's a dangerous statement... to which address do I send my invoice for my monthly retainer fee? After that, I hold people hostage with per diems :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
You know the real good news ?... Remember the Swiftech MCR120QPs with fixed 3/8 barbs? Well, they are not as good as PA120.1s but they are more skinny and three of them would fit nicely in a LL 343B. I just heard from Swiftech that they are moving to screw on barbs. You know what that means? We can have 1/4" barbs on one of those MCR120QPs and cool the OCZFlexx in a separate loop with a reliable less powerful pump like the D-Tek DB1. We can also route the NB and SB to the other two single radiators. That leaves the whole top dual radiator available for cooling expansion! Let's say we have two PA120.2s cooling two G92s.. on two separate loops, instead of stuffing two hot G92s into one PA120.3. This leaves open 3 optical bays for your optical stuff.. which is perfect for your Plex, your Matrix Orb and your X-fi Bay !!! hoooray !!
Have you seen my buddy Doubage's 343B? Another masterpiece.
{Edit: actually I saw that you posted in the update thread.. so you know about this work of art}
Initial Thread
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...hlight=doubage
Update/Upgrade
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...hlight=doubage
That things crazy! Thanks for the pics.
IanY: LOL! See, I rest my case. My wallet is already empty and my bank accounts dried from this rig. If you keep on providing more valuable info, personally I will have to declare bankruptcy. But this is good news, indeed, for those others who are looking to build new rig with a 343B.
Your friend's rig is where I got some of the inspirations from :)
Boxcar: Thanks mate!
Gotcha...thx for taking the trouble to explain in detail+pix, man this's really xtremesystems, all the sweet builts and mods...plus experienced advice, suppose Thx are in order to IanY for advising you on getting it right and coming with a nice built for all to see. Anymore pix :D
Cheers All :up:
Thx cablesguy. IanY doesn't need any Thx from me because he will be sending me his invoices instead :D j/k. He shall, forever, have my gratitude.
Mjassbong,
What's your feeling on those Akasa sound dampeners? I'm considering adding some to my HTPC rig, and inside my pump/res external enclosure, but unless they are effective I might pass for the Damptek or Acoustipak stuff.
This is only subjective but I like 'em. I have no data, evidence or proof to claim that Akasa works better than the other or that the Akasa has reduced noise level and vibration in my case IF I were not to use it. I can tell you this tho, I bought another brand (don't recall which) and prefer the Akasa over the unknown brand just because the Akasa mat is black to match with my black lian li. The other brand is grey eventho it was claimed to be black. I used the grey brand in unexposed areas.
The "grey stuff" is most likely the one from Acousti Products.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
I found myself looking at it as well, because this case, based on my experience with my much enjoyed Lian-Li PC-70, is going to be a nightmare of squeaks, rattles, reverberations and sonic annoyances in general...
With that particular one I ended up using the kind of (ugly as hell) foam we would use in floor insulation (3 cm thick high-density), basically because it was free (offcuts ftw! ^^). It didn't help a lot though. At that time I mounted the orange TT fans for the case, and a 60mm delta on the CPU, and the only way to silence those was to smash them with a blunting object (which in the end I did ^^; )
However, I must agree with you, they've managed to choose a rather unatractive colour for it :p:
And I don't like the Akasa one either because they've decided to print the bloody logo all over it, which doesn't really float my boat (unless they decide to sponsor my mod, of course ^^).
And the DampTEK one, although they call it (rather poetically) Anthracite Grey, looks more like filthy-used-to-be-white to me :p:
Mind you, I don't know why I bother about the looks because I'm going to ditch the windowed panel (or rather leave it in the loft for the spider's amusement) in favour of the original non-windowed one.
Being not-so-bright is sometimes such a hindrance...
how bad are the squeks and what nots for this case?
u referring to 343b?
havent used sound dampeners b4 but frm what i gather, it increases temps a little and a pita to remove
mjassbong, I'm out in San Fernando. Maybe we should hang out sometime. I could drool over your camera/LCD/computer a bit.
Quite an amazing machine you have there.
With regard to hobbies.. Every one I enter seems to be more expensive than the next..
1. RC Cars (stopped due to expense)
2. Computers (havnt stopped, but dont purchase items as much because they dont break every time u use them)
3. Photography (also ties into computers due to screen calibrator and better LCD panels)
Thanks Maxxx!
This is my first "break the bank" PC build and there will not be another one for a very long time, I hope. Of course, I will just upgrade the CPU and GPUs down the road :D
I can imagine why you've stopped with RC cars. Between computers and photog, they get the most breakdowns.
P.S. - We definitely should have a hang out. Am about an hour+ from you, in Lakewood.
Mjassbong.
i am simply amazed, theres nothing i can say that hasnt been said..... simply amazing, the attention to detail is second to none!
id sure hate to have to swap a part out in that rig though.... (ie, ram stick!)
my rig took me all of 6 hours to put togetrher, and looks like a POS compared to yours! i will be rebuilding mine in fall after my major house rono's (which include a new pc/work room!) ill be using your build as a refence to the merits of attention to detail! right down to the remote controlled lighting!
very nice work, you should be proud of what you've built there!
off to my crappy job. but ill be thinking of your rig all day ;-)
Thank you :)
I do agree. It's going to be a real pain in the ass when I have to drain the coolant or replace any of the components.
That's got to be the design weakness of all the cube cases we see.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
With motherboard mid-mounted they all overlap it with other components on both sides. I guess they want to take advantage of all the space in what are fairly large cases.
I'd prefer six inches more depth and none to very little overlapping the front side of the board.
Guess, making it myself would be the only way to get one like that.
Amazing system's specs and amazing job !! :clap: :clap:
I think it's one of the best in the forum ;)
mjassbong,
How thick is that sound dampening material you used? I found some stuff that is 1/8" thick that has no logos on it. It's 4' wide and $6.95 per running foot.
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/prices.html
Rick
Am with you. This case would have been PERFECT if it is a few more inches deep and taller.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
noel82: Thank you.
Rick: The Akasa is 4mm thick, just a little over 1/8". That site you listed has good price. I should have shopped around first.
that's It...............I've had enough...you deserve an "ICE COLD" beer:
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/_MG_2158.jpg
:up: :up: :clap: :shocked:
believe it or not this is EXACTLY how they looked coming out of my fridge!..:woot:
:lol: That is exactly what needed here in Socal. It is so hot today. Thanks for the ice cold beer.
no prob....*-)
W:shocked:W!!!! Very nicely done!
Best WC system I've seen so far! Absolutely amazing.
Yes more depth and a removeable mobo system would have been tons better. Put my 343B (log to come in a month or two as things are building slowly) to the saw yesterday, cut the mobo down to ATX size and give myself access to both drive bays much easier. Like the change very much, but it sure was kind of creepy cutting such a case.
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tauvo
Thanks! This was a straight-up install - very little case modding done. Mekrel and Angry_Steel and a few others are setting up a system using the same case. But their case-modding skills will put mine to shame :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydsmart
343 being conceptually two Lian Li cases joined together, it's all about which cases they chose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemone
I came up with the same idea but using the V1000 instead.
Appearance-wise it's not as good looking externally but the extra bit of room makes layout much better, imho. Build log soon.
bolted 2 v1000's together???
Yep!
Jedda....any pix to showoff
Well, this is Mjassbong's thread and I'll be posting mine in a build thread soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by cablesguy
But just to show it's not hot air and with apologies to Mjassbong for the liberty, I'll show the extra half behind the motherboard which is where the bulk of my WC will be. A PA120.3 top and bottom with pumps and reservoirs in the middle for two loops planned.
Edit Have my thread up Here so I've taken the pic down. Folks should be looking at Massbong's pics, not mine.
cool...cant wait :up:
@ Jedda - funny how u came up with fusing those two... just 2 weeks ago i was thinking of fusing 2 343B's together, but instead of next to each other, one on top of the other :D
Yeah, the first company to come up with a connect together system that lets us really build our own layout will reign. A lot of the Lian Li stuff transfers between their cases as it is.
I'd just like to add my congratulations. That is a fantastic build :up:
I'm just starting my 1st water-cooling build, and have purchased the PC-343 case (originally bought an MM, but wasn't totally happy with it) together with a PA120.3 rad (single loop for now).
I did have a few questions regarding component layout for this case, but this thread seems to have answered most of them :)
I may have more questions during the build process however. I hope I can rely on your support :p:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
There are several of us that are building a custom system using the 343 case using different layouts. Search 343 for different ideas.
Cheers!
Thx for the info Cascades. I've subscribed to the other threads and will take my time working through them.
As this will be my 1st attempt at both water-cooling and modding, my build will not be as extreme as those posted. Just a single loop for the CPU to start and then maybe look to extend at a later date once I have built up a little experience.
Thanks! You have chosen one nice case. You will find Cascades and many others with the same case in the process of setting up. So you've come to the right place with questions :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
awesome build!!
mjassbong: can you please post the wiring for the logysis remote? i've ordered one form the US over ebay and got it delievered last week. i've also just had the LL343b delieved today-and will be wirng it all up in the next few days.
From the black small box you have 5 wires.
blue one is for the RF antenna
the 2 black are ground
red one is 12v IN
and white 12v is OUT.
Am i right in saying that one black and 12v IN is connected to the PSU; and the other black and 12v OUT is connected to a molex for example-which is then looped to the several cathodes?
pic attached:
http://www.egraphixstudios.com/images/remote.jpg
That's pretty much it. You have the wiring diagram correctly. One option to connect the 12V OUT to is a power station like this one:
http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-po...-mini-box.html
Then you can connect all of your lighting to be remotely turned on/off to this box.
Also be sure to hang up the blue RF wire high. Otherwise, you'd have to be really close to your LL343B to use the key fob.
Good one, mjassbong. That is a nice looking machine. I right-clicked Save As every damn picture you posted :ROTF:
Mjassbong: Absolutely magnificent build.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
Thx! I am flattered. Let me know if you want any high resolution (4368 x 2912) images :DQuote:
Originally Posted by pH(x)
Thx again Movieman. I really enjoy using this system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Movieman
Well...actually me too....funny but i still come in once awhile to see even tho i hv it saved in my hd :DQuote:
Originally Posted by pH(x)
Wow, very impressive. I swear the more I look at builds the more excessive my plans try to become.
I have a question about the fittings you are using. I have been looking for compression fittings that work with a 1/2" ID tube, what are those and how happy are you with them? I like the look of compression fittings over zip ties or worm clamps. Also how are they for being secure/ leak free.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
Thanks for any help.
Try reading the first post. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by shabranigdo
WOW! VERY nice build man! Looks WAY better than my loop... I'm jealous.
nice build and nice sig its very funny
Gotta agree ... verrrrry verrrry nice system. Love to see these types of builds - they are inspiring!
Watching your psu closely.
Is that the only brand with modular board leads, 24-pin etc?
My Tagan had a good sheilded board aux power molex 4-pin lead but too stiff. My Corsair only has a std molex for the board aux. What's the X3 have for aux board lead use?
They are Koolance's. In order to use their 1/2" or 13mm ID fitting, you are limited to use only a 1/2"ID 5/8"OD tubing.Quote:
Originally Posted by shabranigdo
Am not aware of any other brand other than Ultra's X3 that comes with a modular 24-pin. All of X3's cables are modular and the cables are very very flexible. You can see a closer pics at Patriote's new build here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
And thank you all for the comments. It's been over 3 months since I've completed this build and it is still running strong.
And now that it ain't broke, you've got to fix it till it breaks ! And then build a new one !! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
LOL! Don't push me. I've been putting off swapping the B3 Q6600 with a G0 for over a month now because am afraid of screwing up a perfect setup. As you can see, swapping a CPU isn't as easy as pie. I'd have to drain a loop or two.
Can't ya take off the cpu block and put a new cpu in without draining the loop?Quote:
LOL! Don't push me. I've been putting off swapping the B3 Q6600 with a G0 for over a month now because am afraid of screwing up a perfect setup. As you can see, swapping a CPU isn't as easy as pie. I'd have to drain a loop or two.
i'm not sure with the gtx block but i did with i swapped out my cpu with my fuzion.....but in your situation might be different...
Also where are you dvd drive's?
I remember this was asked earlier:Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
I have the same concerns with my build. I've just completed final leak testing and already have some concerns about the layout - I know my pump needs to be moved, which will require the motherboard to be removed and have realised that I cannot do this without draining the system. However, I'm not entirely sure how to achieve this :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by mjassbong
Anyway, I'll try and post a build log with some pics in a separate thread and maybe I can get some good suggestions.