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I haven't connected the fan controller yet. I'm only going off specifications, and they are there for a purpose.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
We rarely go past 60% load on power supplies when installing systems for work. I am applying the same rational. It is much better to spread the load and run a power supply (or in this case a fan controller point) at less than its maximum load.
As long as you do not exceed the maximum current/wattage draw for a power supply, you can hook up as much as you want. (However it is good to spread the load and run under the maximum).Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerswim8
The fans draw the required amperage/wattage - the power supply just has to be able to provide it. I am sure there are more qualified ppls here who could answer this question in more detail.Quote:
how does it evenly distribute the correct power to each fan?
Totally ran out of time today - had so much planned.
My lovely wife woke up with a migraine, so all plans for going out were scrapped.
After the obligatory gardening, mowing lawns, etc I had about half an hour left to do something.
So I went to Bunnings, bought a can of spray enamel and let my rad have it.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/53s.jpg Looks a million bucks now.
Then my son decided to see how far he could shove his finger into his brain...
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/54s.jpg
Its much better to stop the dust before it gets into your rad, I have filter>rad>shroud>fans with the fans sucking which is quieter and more efficient :)Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
GeoffP: great work. Keep us updated as I think very soon I will get myself one of those cases as well. The rad you got - what type is it and where did you get it from? Doest it align with the holes/fans of the U2-UFO?
It's a Thermochill PA120.3 and they line up perfectly on the UFO's..........;)
Do you know if any other rads will line up? I can not find thermochill in Australia and I rather NOT pay for postage and taxes from US...
dont think so, they're only made to line up with thermochills... if iam not mistaken.
MnM,
Rad is Thermochill PA120.3
I had to import it. Got it from Danger Den.
If you are going to get a U2-UFO, you would be best to purchase the rad at the same time. YOU are going to love the importation price on the U2 (check back earlier in my thread 4 postage costs)
I would make a complete list before ordering anything, that way you would save on importation costs by grouping your orders together - not like me, missed a few items, had to order separately from the same overseas supplier, paid EXTRA postage :(
sorry to even ask such question but I really cant tell from the pic...you also painted the fins?????
Yes, I gave them a quick blast for aesthetics.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoax
Got me worried now, hate to ask it, will that cause a problem with heat dissipation?
some problems probably. next time cover fins with cardboard, only paint sides.
Sorry didnt mean to create any panic.. Dont take my word for it, I just think we are not supposed to paint over the fins... every PA I seen that was repainted was masked for the fins.. and this recent thread also mentioned this:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php
other members will be able to tell a lot better then I could try, how much if any this will affect your temps... so all I can say is best of luck and hope somebody can bring you some good news and everyone can yell at me for even bringing it up :toast:
I have the fan filters you bought, but I scrapped them, as they absolutely murdered my airflow, it felt as if flow was brought to about 1/3 of the original. I removed them, and I take an air compressor to it every few months (though perhaps this isn't the best idea, I had some water come out of the compressor and that scared me, to say the least).
-Yan
Oh well, at least I only lightly sprayed the very tops of the fins, I didn't spray deep down inside the fins.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
I should have asked first before spraying :p:
you live and learn
EDIT: Found this link. Don't feel so bad now.
Well,
I'm getting to the business end of my build (finally) over the next few days.
Couple of more questions while I think of them.
Do I need any plumbing tape on the barbs for the following items:
1. AquaXtreme 3/8 > 1/2" Barbs for the rad.
2. Chrome plated brass fitting 1/4 in. BSPP x 1/2 in. barb for MCW60's
PT Nuke - one or two drops for the loop - right?
G11 or G12 Pentosin (I have both, depends on colour I want in the loop) - ppl say 5%, 10%, 20%, what is a good percentage to mix with the distilled water. I know some ppl will say you don't need it, you only need distilled & an algecide like PT Nuke, but, this is my very first wc job, I have UV lights to install, it's gotta have some internal bling :D
I reckon I'll be pretty right after this - or until I get stuck again
Have to say a big THANK YOU to everyone at XtremeSystems Forums, no way in the world could I have picked up such a vast wealth of knowledge in such a short time without everyone's assitance - Thanks PPL's :worship:
[QUOTE=GeoffP;2153522]
Do I need any plumbing tape on the barbs for the following items:
1. AquaXtreme 3/8 > 1/2" Barbs for the rad.
2. Chrome plated brass fitting 1/4 in. BSPP x 1/2 in. barb for MCW60's
PT Nuke - one or two drops for the loop - right?
G11 or G12 Pentosin (I have both, depends on colour I want in the loop) - ppl say 5%, 10%, 20%, what is a good percentage to mix with the distilled water.[QUOTE]
don't need taflon tape for barbs with O-rings, the o-rings act as seal, just hand tighten them, then turn 1/4 to 1/2 with the wrench always works for me.
PT Nuke, yes 1 to 2 drops.
Pentosin, mine did not reach 5% with distilled. currently have cloudy tubings from previous coolant used (spilled liquid due to stupidity)
but still i see nice blue pentosin/distilled water in my mcres micro, more like 3%, or just half bottle of blue pentosin mix with a liter distilled.
thanks septim
I agree,Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
The filter will definitely before the rad, just have to work out if I put it grill>filter>case>rad OR grill>case>filter>rad.
Actually, just thinking about it, I will be going grill>filter>case>rad. Then I can access the filters easily to clean and change simply by removing the individual grill.
What about a second gasket between the rad and the case.
Will that help seal a bit better?
On the other hand, wouldn't rad>case allow extra heat to dissipate from the rad to the case via metal on metal?
Hi YanBooth,Quote:
Originally Posted by YanBooth
Was the increase in air flow very noticeable when you removed the filters? (how did you gauge the increased air flow, hand over the air venting out the rad, etc)?
Was there also a measurable decrease in system component/loop temps?
This also leads to another question, what other types of filters does everyone use (or not use as well)?
I used the highly scientific 'feel the breeze over a slightly wetted hand' approach, its a toughie, but one can master this art with time ;)
I did not do a temperature change check, but it cut off so much airflow, I fear that it would have a noticeable effect on temps.
more pics, its looking great so far!
Did a bit more after work today.
Fitted the fans and neoprene gasket to the rad shroud.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/55s.jpg
The gasket hung over the edge a bit, so I trimmed it off before sticking it to the shroud.
Also notice that the hole widths on the gasket are a bit short of the shroud holes. Nothing major, but you think the manufacturer could get everything to line up - had to stretch the gasket a bit to get it to fit properly.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/56s.jpg
Fans fitted to shroud.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/57s.jpg
Shroud fitted to rad.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/58s.jpg
Parts ready for assembly.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/59s.jpg
And fitted - the filters were a real pr*cK to line up. I ended up fitting them between the rad and the case as they looked crap on the outside.
If the filters prove to bit too restrictive, they will be very easy to remove.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/60s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/61s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/62s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/63s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/64s.jpg
What do you reckon about the fan grills, too much bling or just dead sexy?
Hopefully tomorrow I will get the GPU's & CPU water blocks fitted, move over the mobo & maybe get the pump, res & loop sorted.
Bunnings stock a clean air compressor for $70, I use to clean monthly.
Thought I knew your sig. Remember you getting your NXT gimbals.
Just ordered my WC bits from Petra n DD. Wow the rate is great atm!
I got $1US = $1.20OZ
Not mad for the grills. Maybe decide after the rest of your components are in place?
grills are a little too much advertising for MM, hehehe. filter is good.
I like the grills, at least their shiny-ness, however the Mountain Mods logo and images are not to my taste, I prefer simple and elegant.
-Yan
If it was me, I would have had the fans pushing, not pulling, I think that would make better use of the fan grill.
Yan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Hi Jedda,
Do you have filters on your rig? Where is the rad, r u using push or pull?
When you blow out the crap, do you just push the air nozzle in from the rear (the inside) of the radiator and blow out dust that way?
I have dealt with Quoc twice now - best service I have ever received, AND they are super fast in processing orders.
I'm kinda in two minds already 'bout the grills - a bit overpowering, anywho, can decide on that later.
What gear did you order from Petra's?
YanBooth,Quote:
Originally Posted by YanBooth
Please explain why - thanks.
I went for pull config as that seemed to be the best for performance.
I should ask for advertising fees from MM :DQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
I could always use some reference urls for alternative grills :p:
Well, that's it. Am switching over to my notebook - this rig is being dismantled and moving into the U2 right now...
It is between the rad and the fans - have a closer look :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerswim8
What's the go with the M14 & M21 heat sinks. It doesn't take much for them to fall off - just a slight knock.
I also noticed that when I did knock one off, it didn't seem to be touching the center of the chip - the sticky pad was untouched.
I pushed them all down really hard again for 10 seconds or so each.
Hopefully they will give full cover of the chips now.
remove stock thermal adhesive pad, use superglue on 4corners and tim in middle,
this procedure worked for me better.
use blade to remove adhesive, and be careful.
Thanks septim,Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
What is "tim"?
Also, super doesn't transfer heat, does it?
So you would loose heat transference from the corners, and only get it from the middle of the chip with the "tim" transference compound - am I right?
If I leave the stock adhesive on, do they fall off by themselves? That could be quite a problem.
Nice pics GeoffP, I got a boner :eek:
LOL - thanks - I think :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
OK, I'm really, really pissed off.
The adhesive tape on the Swiftech BGA Memory Heatsinks is pathetic.
Had all the heatsinks fixed, putting on the Tygon tubing, the tubing just has to slightly touch the heatsink, and it :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing falls off.
If I breath hard, the :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing heatsink falls off.
Septim, you said use tim in the center - is that thermal interface material or something else. I need to know now as I'm certainly not relying on the adhesive to hold the bloody heat sinks on.
I was going great guns until this, good thing I do have some super glue.
What does everyone else do to hold on the heat sinks?
EDIT: Looks like Arctic Silver Adhesive will do the job.
One question re this, it did mention that using AS adhesive by itself will create a permanent bond, I did read that you can mix it with AS5 which will allow you to remove the heat sink in the future if required - anyone done this?
Now I have a time consuming job - remove the crappy thermal tape from 22 ram heat sinks - that will take a long time, it is really tough to get off :( Good thing I have a lot of acetone - should do the job.
yep ceramique or mx1 or as5, so far only 1 fell down on me. use needle to apply 4 corners with glue.
*anti gravity sinks?*
Think I'll go with the AS Adhesive Septim. Thanks anyway.
Unfortunately doesn't seem to be any store in Melbourne that supplies it open on a Sunday.
Update on Saturdays work:
Pulled out the G80 adapter plate I bought earlier in the week and just made sure the mounting holes lined up - good for my piece of mind..
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/65s.jpg
OK, first job was to gut the GPU's:
The existing fan & heat sink unit came off in about 10 seconds - removed the screws, slide it to break the seal, and lifted it off - simple
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/66s.jpg
Cleaned up
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/67s.jpg
Heat sinks on - as per earlier in my thread, HEAPS of problems with these things staying on
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/68s.jpg
MCW60 fitted
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/69s.jpg
2 cards stripped down and ready to rock :slobber:
NB: I also changed the dual mounting plates for single plates
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/70s.jpg
My son lost interest and went off to play KungFu on his computer :p:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/71s.jpg
Next job is the CPU:
Old Zalman 9700 CPU cooler removed, CPU cleaned up
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/72s.jpg
FuZion mounting screws screwed into Thermalright LGA775 RM LGA775 Retention Bracket. No drilling out of bracket required :p:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/73s.jpg
FuZion mounted ready for tension springs
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/74s.jpg
Finished
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/75s.jpg
Started experimenting with loop and equipment positioning.
Got interesting at this point as I realized that even though the case is great, I would have liked a bit MORE room :p: It is certainly EXCELLENT to work with though, can get your hands in ANYWHERE.
Found a really good position for the res, tucked up in between the two drive bays, great spot. I also had to swing the rad around 180 degress from my initial positioning.
I thought if I can keep the loop on one side, and the power supply and myriad of cables on the other side, that would be a good thing. Unfortunately my power supply is not modular (note to myself, but a bloody modular supply next time :p: )
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/76s.jpg Will have to redo the pump position I think - I also forgot my drain line which will go in after the pump :slap:
It was a this stage that I realized that the 1/2" ID tubing is really, really WIDE/THICK. Had all sorts of problems getting the 2 worm clamps onto the FuZion barbs, and (to me) impossible to get them onto the MCW60 barbs.
I will have to use cable ties for the MCW60's I think.
Also found that while I was working on the GPU's, the bloody ram sinks would get knocked EVER so slightly and fall off.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/77s.jpg Stopped there for the night, did some reading on the net and decided I definitely need some Arctic Silver Adhesive for these things.
Last job for the night was to cut out a hole in the bottom of the drive bay with a hole saw. This will allow me to feed cables into the drive bay and keep them relatively hidden as well.
NB: Even though I did dremmel it out and the hole edges are very smooth I will still be fitting a grommet - will do the same for the other drive bay as well
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/78s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/79s.jpg
On Sunday all I can do is clean up the 22 ram sinks and play around with the loop configuration. Can't get any adhesive until Monday. BUGGER - was hoping to be practically finished by Sunday.
Nice job Geoff! :)
That black PCB Gainward is just yum :slobber:
I see you are cursed with 1 black pcb and green pcb. I'm in the same boat. I'll swop you my green pcb for your black pcb. :p:
Yep :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] Hard H20
Comes down to not being able to source a second XFX when I wanted it. Had to settle for the Gainward.
I do have a can of black spray paint, I could always..........
lolz, nice job on that, carry on man...
no to the spraypainted XFX..... again Lolz.
hope your ramsinks stays on this time...
Just spent the last 90 minutes cleaning the thermal adhesive tape off the ram sinks.
That tape is bloody hard to remove.
I am using Arctic Clean 1 & 2 Thermal Material Removers but it is still hard work.
Initially used my finger nail, gave up on that quite quickly, swapped to my Frequent Flyer card, much better.
Anywho, having a bit of a break, done 14 sinks, ONLY 8 to go.
NB: My thumb feels like it is going to fall off :p:
FINALLY finished :cool:
BEFORE http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/80s.jpg AFTER http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/81s.jpg
Only took 2 1/2 hours...:eek:
hehehe, told you to use a blade on em. put AC1 to soften em up then blade em off, then clean with AC2...
damn I remember doing that with my ancient nf2 NB heatsink. I used some axe body spray in that it contained some alcohol, it helped A LOT but still took time; the sinks were forever doomed with smell of :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty fragrance
Jesus. I didn't even go to those lengths. I just put the AS-A/Ceramique mix directly on top the tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
LOL wow lots of people are having serious problems with the heatsinks on the RAM. Did your son loose interest, or did you have to kick him out because you were saying inappropriate words while putting the sinks on? :D
I may be slightly "ANAL RETENTIVE" :eleph:Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
Did some more work on the loop today as well.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/82s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/83s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/84s.jpg
Still have to add the 2 GPU's, but that will be done after I have stuck on the ram sinks.
Not too sure about the positioning of the drain tube. Is this a good position? If I moved it down towards the rad any more I started to loose the free flowing bend in the tubing. At the moment I can't see any flattening in the curves which is good.
I also cut down the pump power cord and sleeved it as well :p:
At this stage I think I will be putting the power supply at the top of the case - that gives me a natural fall down behind the mobo tray for all the power cables as well as freeing up a lot of real estate on the base of the case on the pump side.
I also moved the pump from the mobo side as it was getting too cramped, and that was without the drain tube as well so I think the layout is a bit better now.
I'm open for comments - good and bad please for the loop layout so far.
both :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Any idea where to go for a comprehensive site for sleeving, molex modding, psu modding instructions? I'm on the last leg of finishing off my system for good and I'm looking to cut my ATX cable from my PSU down by half of its length as well as relocating molexes and sleeving them. However, I'm a bit scared to just read tid bits here and there and jump in. A PCP&C 1K PSU doesn't come cheap...Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
But this http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod1944.htmQuote:
Not too sure about the positioning of the drain tube. Is this a good position? If I moved it down towards the rad any more I started to loose the free flowing bend in the tubing. At the moment I can't see any flattening in the curves which is good.
Then you have more freedom to position the tubin as you want. I am using it on my current water cooled system and it works just fine.
As for me I am still questioning my sanity after seeing the total of the UFO case + rad. Is arounf 1K... Still not decided if I want to pay that much... looking at the DD - Water Box Plus maybe I will end up buying that one - with postage is less than the cost of the UFO case. Still undecided ... has anyone got anything (bad/good) to say about the DD - Water Box Plus?
(https://www.dangerden.com/store/prod...3&cat=1&page=1)
As for you GeoffP - would you still buy the case if you knew then your experience from now?
Your build is coming along nicely. I especially like how you did the fan controller using the custom bay cover...excellent work.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
About the RAM sinks and thermal adhesive. I highly recommend that you NOT use the thermal adhesive by itself. It is better to mix some Arctic Silver 5 in with it so that if you need to remove the sinks later, you'll be able to do so without as much hair pulling as I went through.
I don't recommend cutting your PCP&C's main ATX cable. There are more creative ways to minimize cable clutter. For example; you could fold the cable over on itself, zip tie it and then sleeve over top of that to keep the 'clump' from looking bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
If you were to cut the cable to shorten it and needed to use it in a different case or with a different motherboard in the future, you'll be up the creek unless you want to 'un-mod' your previous 'shorten the cable mod'. ;)
I found a link on sleeving which was very descriptive - will try to find it for you. I used that information to do the fans on the rad shroud. After that its dead easy to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
You just need a good soldering iron (with flame adapter for heat shrink shrinking), solder, sleeving, heat shrink, good set of cutters, electrical tape, sharp scissors to cut electrical tape, molex pin removers, bite your tongue and off you go. ALWAYS remember to make a note of the pin-out of ANY cables you remove from a molex connector (or take a photo for visual reference).
I have also purchase some extra wide sleeving which I will be using to help hide some of the power supply cables which wont be needed. Next supply I buy will definitely be modular in design - MUCH better idea.
Once you have done a couple of sleeves, its quite infectious :p:
Thanks mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
I will definitely be mixing AS5 or Ceramique with the adhesive. Like the option of undoing what I have done.
Ranker,
Found the link on how to sleeve a cable - here
freecableguys instruction are very informative as usual.
Does it matter which input you use at the bottom of the EK Reservoir?
I am using the bottom vertical flow hole for out and the bottom horizontal flow hole directly above it for in.
There are two bottom horizontal holes with a small divider between them. In the above in/out config, does it matter which side of the divider the in flow is on?
Hope this makes sense...
How long does it take the AS adhesive to set firmly?
I mixed it with a bit less than 1 to 1 with Ceramique.
The ram sinks felt fairly solid, started putting on the tubing, and they still fell off.
Do you have to leave this stuff overnight to harden?
How long did you leave the mix to harden before handling the GPU?Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
I gave it a couple of hours, thought the ram sinks were firmly attached, started putting on my tubing, they all fell off..
Have any of your sinks been knocked off since you stuck them on with adhesive/ceramique?
I've started the work on all of my fans and sleeved them all. Now i'm working on doing a custom job on all of my power connectors. I'm going to remove some and add some connectors to different cables done at custom lengths. I'm a bit worried about the main ATX cable though. If anyone's done it, let me know if I should be careful to watch out for something (so far, i'm going to tag all the individual cables in the ATX cable with #'s so i know the exact order they were in).Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
BTW, what would you need a soldering iron for? I have one, but I haven't run across a need for it yet.
The adhesive stuff can be a bit tricky. At least it was for me. It took me about 4 tries before I had the stuff mixed just right. It is a lot less forgiving of a bad mix than say regular epoxy is.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
Make sure that you mix the two equal parts of the adhesive together throughly first. I can't stress the 'equal' & 'throughly' part enough...very important! Then add your other stuff. I'm not sure what the best ratio is but you may have to reduce the amount of Ceramique you use to get a more firm bond.
You might want to experiment on an old circuit board you have lying around. That way you'll know your mix is right. Ideally, you'll want to be able to 'pop' off the sinks with just a little extra force.
And, no...it doesn't take overnight for it to get strong enough to work with. Keep in mind that the sinks will not normally have any force applied to them at all anyway so as long as they stay on when the card is upside down, you should be good.
You may also find these directions beneficial.
EDIT:
I don't remember if I had told you this on another thread before or not but if not, I don't recommend cutting your main ATX cable...instead, sleeve it creatively. Think about how you could get the same result you imagine w/o shortening it. That way you could still use the PS on a different build (or sell it) in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
If you are insistent on doing it though, learn on an old PS before chopping into your good one.
A soldering iron comes in handy any time you are going to reconnect wires together. For example; wiring several fans together, changing a for pin molex connection down to a 3 pin header connection, or extending the length of a pump's power cable.
like he said it, wouldn't recommend cutting up main atx wires, best just fold and use zip ties and tuck somewhere unobtrusive...
geoffp, gud luck on experimenting with AS adhesive. me, i'll stick with superglue...
Yeah, I guess I'll do that then. I figure if two people are gonna save me from myself, i might as well listen.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Used the soldering iron when I joined and extended the fan wires on my rad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
If you are going to modify your power cables, how are you planning on reconnecting the moles pins? Are you using new ones, if so, I would still recommend soldering as well as crimping the on.
Thanks mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
I re-stuck them down last night, fitted the cards this morning, no sinks fell off. I was UBER careful though not to hit them at all :)
Unfortunately I have found that the tubing between the two GPU's is really flattening out.
Can you get cool sleeves for Tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" O/D tubing, or something else that will round out the tubing again?
Re-jigged loop photos:
Circled where the tubing is flattening out.
I also relocated the t-piece for the drain tube so it is at the lowest point in the loop.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/85s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/86s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/87s.jpg
Not real sure what to do about the flattening tube. The 3/4" O/D tube diameter makes it too thick for Cool Sleeves - I actually don't like the look of Cool Sleeves anyway, but I suppose it is a necessary evil.
I just need to solve this problem, then I can fill 'er up and leak test :p:
just put some coolsleeves on where the tubing is flattening out...you will be fine..
granted, coolsleeves do look like ass, but they will do the job
Can you wind Cool Sleeves on with the tubing already in place, or do you have to unclamp one end and slide it on?
Would rather not frig with the GPU's again at the moment after all the problems with ram sinks.
well sleeves can't just magically "unkink" an already kinking tube. you should use on tubing with its natural bendQuote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
K, thanks Nooc.
Just talked with PCCaseGear, the Cool Sleeves they have is not suitable for the 3/4" O/D Tygon. They used to get some that was suitable for my application, but the manufacturer no longer makes it.
They said some people have wrapped ordinary wire around the kinks :eek:
I might just go for a couple of cable ties for a temporary fix, and start leak testing. Need to get my main pc back up :p:
I have the save problem with my machine. I used a mix of cool sleeve for the SLI bend and some Zip Ties for the crucial spots.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
What tubing r u using?Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
Well, this is interesting, hooked up the power supply to the pump, shorted green & black on the mobo connector, measured 9.9V on the p/supply molex, turned off p/supply, plugged in pump, turned on p/supply - nada nix nothing :mad:
Tried adjusting the flow setting from 1 to 5, still nothing.
Tried loading the p/supply with a cd drive, tested drive eject mechanism (worked fine), still nothing at the pump.
Swapped p/supply and redid all the above, still nothing.
Dunno - dead pump?
can you get your hands on a PSU tester? like this?
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=77203
I use something very similar when I am redoing/refilling my loop.
I'm using a mix of Tygon 2075 and R-3603. All of which are 7/16".Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
Hi Grinch,Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinch
Not sure what that would achieve.
I am using a voltmeter which shows I have 9.9V at the 4-pin molex when green & black are shorted together - open circuit on green & black gives no volts at 4-pin molex. I think that proves that both p/supplies are ok.
K, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
fitting coolsleeves on tubing before putting on barbs is easiest.
or maybe route tubing differently if possible...
for the moment try your zipties, if it don't work, then you'd really have to redo them tubes...
tap tap tap pump?
Well, looks like I have a dead pump :mad:
Checked cabling as I cut the length down and sleeved it, but absolutely no problems there, everything is insulated properly.
Pump runs from 8-24VDC - molex is providing 9.9V so plenty of power.
The only conclusion I can draw is that the pump is dead.
I can get one locally from PCCaseGear but that doesn't help with this unit. Don't think I can RMA it now as I have chopped the power cable, besides I got it from PPC and I am never buying anything from them again. The down time would also be excessive.
Pretty much I'm screwed and have to go for a local replacement pump.
Really, really pissed at the moment :mad:
Is there anything else I can try??
thats a huge case! i like it. sorry if i read wrong, but did i see that there was going to be 2 thermochills?
Check the sig :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerswim8
Swiftech MPS655
Hmmm, a bit worried as this is a leak test, I suppose I could plug it in and quickly flick the p/supply on & off to see if the pump fires up. Pump does need 1.9A.
EDIT: OK, just tried it with mobo plugged in, mobo lit up, pump still dead.
Hi, thanks, no only one rad..Quote:
Originally Posted by teyber
is this the very first time you attempt to power up the pump??
really sorry to hear you have to go thru all this after so much work.. hope it works out
:toast:
yep, first time
just about sums up my week.
gonna see if i can pull it apart - if not, throw it thru the wall.
teyber, its ranker who has 3 thermochill rads...
geoffp, are you really sure about wiring of pump, you could have mistaken wiring, if not, then sorry to hear another setback...
Well,
Pulled pump apart, as much as I could anyway. NB: Like the magnetic half dome spinning thingamajigy :p:
All cabling is correct, black to black, red to red - not real hard to get right, but worth checking again.
Pulled out an EDM 13.8VDC 2A Power supply and connected pump to it, nothing.
Bugger,
As per the picture there isn't much to check for on the circuit board (not for me anyway), no obvious burnt components, etc.
Put it back together, gave it one last try, BINGO, it started (only ran it for a second or two dry), but it ran... :confused:
Not sure why now and not before, put it back on the pc p/supply. nada, put it back on the seperate EDM p/supply, no problems..
So, setup the loop to be temporarily powered by the EDM while I leak test.
Been running about 30 minutes - no leaks at all YET - good thing, good thing :)
Boy that pump is noisy with the bubbles ripping thru it - didn't take too long to get rid of the majority of them. Lots of little one though.
Kinda got a vortex thingy happening in the REK res. Filled it practically to the top, have the top on and sealed, vortec still happening, not sure if bubbles are getting sucked back into the pump from the vortec, or bubbles are raising to the surface of the rad.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/88s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/89s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/90s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/91s.jpg
The question still remains, why doesn't either power supply I used get the pump going?
Pump is supposed to be power from 8V to 24V - needs 1.9A, maybe the p/supply needs more load on it apart from one mobo & one cd-drive to get it going - don't know, I'm not an electrician.
Would love to hear some theories from you techie guys :)
pump, mobo + CD should be plenty of load for pump jump start
strange thing there
is your molex plugging in correctly in the PSU plug.....the only thing i can think of
must be something wrong with your wiring, like broken wire perhaps. or the connectors are non contacting...
You should have a higher voltage at the connector. It is a 12V line so with the +- 5% tolerances factored in you should see between 11.4 - 12.6 V on the +12 V Line. Since it works with the other PS, I think the low voltage is the issue. What voltage reading do you get when you measure the +12V line on the other PS? If the EDM's voltage is between the above values, then it has to be something wrong with your other power supply or the wiring job.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
I'd look at the wiring first. How did you re-connect any wires that you previously cut? Did you solder them back together or do it another way? If you soldered them, were the solder connections shiny or dull looking after you were finished?
Both pc p/supplies are providing approx 9.9V at the 4-pin molex - this is measuring the black & red wires on the molex - positive & negative. Can someone tell me what is the purpose of the orange & second black wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
Soldering is fine but thanks for the suggestion :p:
Leak testing - after 3 hours, NO leaks anywhere.
Only bubbles I can see are when I tap the rad, tends to release a surge of bubbles, but they quickly bleed out in the rad :)
Wiring job on the pump is OK as it is running fine on the EDM p/supply.
Can someone with the MCP655 do me a favour please, pretty please. Unplug it and take a photo of the end of the plug looking into the molex pins, plus if not viewable make a note of red & black cables leading to the molex pins.
Am asking for this as I am 99.999% sure I have the read & black pins on the correct side of the molex - pays to be sure though.
LEAK TESTING - After 3 hours no leaks at all :)
The only bubbles I see are when I tap the rad, that releases a small surge of air bubbles that are still trapped. They quickly bleed out through the rad though.
you have to grab the RAD and give it a good shake a few times to get rid of all the bubbles
LOL - that will be a bit hard, it is mounted in the U2 case :p: I might gently lift the case on its side a bit, see how that goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
Last update for today.
Re-wired and sleeved two 120mm fans for the rear hard drive mounting plates. Four hard drives will be mounted at the rear of the case. Two per mounting plate/fan location.
Before http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/92s.jpg
After http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/93s.jpg Nice and long to route along the edge of the case to the front fan controller.
These Noctua fans don't seem to push much air - they will be changed for Scythe SFF21F's if they turn out to be crap.
3 1/2 hours leak tested, still no leaks :woot:
Black and red @ the molex under load should read 5.0V, yellow and black should read 12.0V :slapass:Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
SoQuote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
A) If I had the Black & Red molex pins FROM the pump connected to the Black & Red molex pins FROM the p/supply under load I will only get 5.0V
BUT
B) if I had the Black & Red molex pins FROM the pump connected to the Yellow & Black molex pins FROM the p/supply under load I will get 12.0V?
Is this correct in my layman's terms? Sorry to sound like a dag, I just want to make sure.
Currently looks like I am using option A) which will under volt the pump.
Looks like I may have transposed the molex pins to the wrong side of the molex connector which would explain my problem :p:
Thanks heaps alphaOne.
Picked up small leak from bottom rad barb 5 1/2 hours in leak testing. Only happens when I move the tubing - re-cabled-tied the tube, no probs :)
yep yellow and black from PSU would give you 12v
which is what you need to run pump.
Lolz geoffp, at least you are good to go now.