I gota do this
My core 2 is lapped now time to go to home depot
I gota do this
My core 2 is lapped now time to go to home depot
This looks like a good cheap option for a backplate too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835999351
It's pretty much the same as the thermalright bolt-through kit that was mentioned earlier, except a little cheaper (basically because you aren't paying for the screws & top retention system, which you wouldn't use anyways.)
This mod for the Infinity is really impressive :) I always wondered why the Infinity didn't do better in review/comparisons. I'm very close to deciding to get an Infinity and do this mount mod, as well as use two quiet fans (like yate loons.) I had previously thought about using an Ultra-120, as I love Thermalright stuff, but it looks like this setup would probably edge the Ultra-120 out a bit.
The only other thing I've been considering is a fairly inexpensive water cooling setup (probably no more than $150-$200,) but I"m not sure if the added cost would provide enough benefit over this modded air setup (other than bragging rights, I suppose.) I'm planning on upgrading to an e6600 in a few months, with a minimum overclock goal of 3.6ghz.
Edit: One other thing, what is a good way to mount a second fan on the Infinity, as they only give you clips for one fan? Tape/zipties would work I know, but I'm looking for a more elegant/professional method if possible.
Couldn't you screw one fan to the other as you would for any other inline dual fan arrangement.
no becuase both fans spin in the same direction. Also, if you evenhave to compare if water cooling would be worth it against high end air cooling, it probably isnt IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by GAM
[EDIT: sorry, I just realised what you're talking about. I was envisaging the wrong cooler, one with a fan mounted on top rather on one side. The objective here is to install them either side in a 'push/pull' arrangement. Sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by enz660
Cable ties it is, or find another mounting clip. You could probably even make up your own clip using appropriate wire.]
I must be missing something, but I assumed they wanted to install two fans, one on top of the other, to increase the air flow (in the same direction, down over the heatsink). Hence, screw one fan on top of the other (using standard fan screws) and clip the bottom one to the heatsink.
Do you think adding a sleeve around the infinity would cause it to cool more efficiently?
I'm thinking that some air is escaping from the sides of the cooler, and thus the reason dual fans improve airflow so much. Seeing as the fins are doubled up around the 10 heat-pipes, it seems like air could be pushing outward. Maybe a hood would allow air to better flow thru to the other side.
My infinity is OTW and I'm planning on making a hood, maybe out of tin. Also using the stock fan (~35CFM) along with a Silverstone 110cfm fan. Stock fan = pull and Silverstone = push.
Thoughts?
I think a sleeve would help a bit, but when you use a silverstone 110cfm for push, it wont do much good (but no bad neither..).Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinas
For materials, I'd suggest something like the polyglaze I used on my TTBT CPU duct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinas
no it wont really change the performance...ive tried it. An Infinity with Push><Push fan config seems to get the best temps, better than Pull<<Push.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinas
I didn't see any changes from normal push to push-pull. :(
But I'll have to try push-push. :D
what about this?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=OTC-SortPrice
Can I use M4 screws, will they fit? M3 are to damn small. :mad:
If you had read the entire topic, you would have known that I also used M4, which indeed fits perfectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by korby
Well, I didn't read all and every word. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRING
Thanks for the help!
What can I use if I can't find any springs? I've searched the entire city and nothing this small. :(
No need for springs, just use plastic (or at least isolated..) rings.. (soft material).Quote:
Originally Posted by korby
Same problem. :(
I think I will try to make a few of them out of some rubber.
--------------------------
Made something.
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/8...nityib1.th.jpg
Looks good :banana:Quote:
Originally Posted by korby
Looks even better. :D I wrote an article about this, here. It's in Romanian, so you'll need a translator. :p:
-------------------------
PS: I think I'll buy "Thermalright LGA775 Bolt Thru" when I'll have the oportunity. :p:
I attached my Infinity to my AW9D-MAX using the Thermalright LGA775 RM:
http://www.thermalright.com/a_images/lga775/1s.jpg
and some ¾” long #6 socket-head cap screws.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3...nersyf3.th.jpg
I wasn’t concerned so much about overclocking as component fatigue. With the Infinity running almost twice the mass of the Intel reference design, I was concerned about the ability of the clips to maintain the necessary socket preload and about twisting of the motherboard around the socket.
I mounted the back plate to the motherboard after drilling out the 3mm tapped holes. I also filed off the small bosses around the holes. Small cresent-shaped plastic “washers” were made to insulate the ends of the back plate and to stand-off the plate so it doesn’t interference with the required motherboard deflection under the socket.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7...k-plate.th.jpg
The heatsink clips sit on 0.1” “spacers” that I cut from 3/8”x 1" Nylon bushings. I original cut them using a X-acto Razor saw and miterbox, and then sanded them for hours, (or so it seemed.) Then it occurred to me to chuck them in my drill press and cut them out using the tip of an Xacto knife. I used one good one as a tool rest and cranked out the rest in no time. The 0.1” corresponds to the stand-off of the reference clips. Since I don’t know how to properly calculate or measure the required 18 –70 lbf preload needed to protect the solder joints in the processor socket, I’ll assume that Scythe factored that into the clip. If you're interested in increasing the pressure on the HSF/processor interface, you could use thinner spacers.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5...nt_side.th.jpg
I wanted to mount my Infinity to exhaust out the top of my Antec 900. It just fits, but I’m crowding a couple capacitors, here:
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/9779/cap-1.th.jpg
and here:
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3765/cap-2.th.jpg
The ¾” screws are a little long, but I drilled access holes in the motherboard tray so it wasn’t an issue. The next time I remount it I’ll probably trim them with a jewel's saw. (It make very clean cuts that won’t mangle the threads.) I think that using an allen wrench to reach under the heatsink and a nut driver from under the motherboard is actually easier than the standard clips, (at least on the MAX).
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/3...loseeq0.th.jpg
I did notice that I’ll need to be more careful with the alignment while I’m tightening the screws. (I had actually started to install push nuts to hold the screws in alignment, but removed them after reading the recommendation for rotating the HSF after it contacts the TIM. I’m reconsidering that option for the future.
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/6...nutsnj5.th.jpg
It doesnt HAVE to be brass does it or did i miss something ? :p
this is the ninja mounted to my board with the TT bolt-thru kit.
i put washers between the spring and the mounting clips to apply more pressure.
http://athos.smugmug.com/photos/131031277-L.jpg
i feel my temps are still a bit high
in TAT/Speedfan beta at 1.35v at 3.25ghz under orthos small fft load i get to about 65/63 on cores after half an hour. in speedfan the tcase temp hits about 58. at these settings my idle is about 50/48 in TAT for the cores and about 39 for Tcase in speedfan.
at 1.31v at 3.15ghz i get about 60/58 max core temps after 30 minutes of orthos small fft. the Tcase temp as reported by speedfan beta hangs out at about 53c under load. idle i get about 35c for my Tcase in speedfan, and 48/46 for my cores in TAT.
what do u think? i feel this is high. i feel i should be getting my temps at 1.35-1.36volts what i am getting at 1.31v.
this chip can fly, i ran it at 3.6ghz stable at 1.4v but didnt keep it there long during tests, but it ran them fine. temps scared me. id like to run this at 3.4 24/7 but i would need about 1.4v and with these results at 1.35 i dont see this happening.
i lapped the cpu well. used up to 800 grit. checked it with a razor blade and i didnt see light. the heatsink was also lapped. i didnt worry about a mirror finish, i was more concerned with flatness. i went up to 1500 grit. the razor blade test was not as perfect as the chip but very close.
i applied the right amount of as5, the thin line down the middle of the chip as per their website.
the mounting has enough pressure, as i can see that i have threading left to screw down more, but i cant - i leaned down hard on the screwdriver and tightened them as much as they would go. i ground down the ninja mounting clip part with my dremel, which was touching a few capacitors, there is nothing impeding the ninja.
im thinking of getting a different heatsink to see if that is the issue. along with this grease - supposedly a 3c improvement from as5
http://www.crazypc.com/products/50118.html
suggestions comments?
ambient temps are just around 70 degrees F
my case temps are nice. my hard drive temps in speedfan are excellent. i did a good wiring job so that airflow in my p180 is unobstructed.it isnt the prettiest, but it is fairly efficient. there are no wires in the middle of the case where airflow is moving. they are run around the bottom and sides mostly. i also put in a front intake yate loon fan in front of the middle hd bay where one hd resides.
this is my case with my first mobo, the p5n-e sli - but is just as clean with my gigabyte. in fact cleaner since i bought an extension cord for my 4pin mobo power cord and ran it out of the way. it is not across the board as in the pic here.
http://athos.smugmug.com/photos/123430226-L.jpg
i have a dremel so i plan on making a few cuts on this case down the road, and wiring everything behind the board. making it virtually wire free in the main part of the case.
as per a suggestion on another board - kicking up my two antec tri cools exhaust fans from low to medium speed lowered temps a full 4 c both on Tcase and on each core on idle. the fan on the ninja is a scythe flex - but only jsut a low speed. i may get throw a tri cool on the ninja, and put the scythe on the top exhaust where i get the most noise from.
what do u think?
further testing now under load and with higher oc'ing.
i dont particularly like the noise. still quieter than a lot of pc's though.
what i would like is a heatsink that requires less exhaust power than this ninja does.
edit: at the 1.35v at 3.25ghz - now after 10 min orthos temps are down significantly - 5c each core down from 65-63c to 60-58c
and from 59c to 52c Tcase temp in speedfan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idiotekniQues
Are the screws bottoming out on the back panel? I'd think you'd
want the springs to be near-to bottomed out to get high pressure...
the screws are close to but not bottomed out. and like i said, i really tried hard to screw them down. i leaned on the screw with all my weight on the screw driver and turned em once they got tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by lad
the way i look at it the washers force the spring to coil back and the increased tension should increase pressure.
or am i wrong?
increasing my exhaust fans to medium speed got my temps dandy - but, i wish it was quieter.
i think taking the scythe flex fan off the ninja, putting a faster fan on there, and replacing the top exhaust with the flex would be effective, and keep less noise blowing right out the top of my case.
I will do this on my ninja with the danger den kit from petra's if my e6700 buy works out.
You may also want to consider this:Quote:
Originally Posted by cursivearmy1
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekcpuwamoha.html
I just purchased the Danger Den Kit and the EK. The springs on the EK kit are quite a bit thicker than the DD's
The 4mm pan head screws are a bit long, (45mm), for the Infinity, so I replaced them with 35mm ones. You could probably add spacers under the motherboard or just cut off 5-10mm's.
I used some nylon and steel washers on the back and steel washers under the springs to finish up. The 4mm nut was added as a jam nut.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6...ountce3.th.jpg
When I saw this post, I think that I have to make this modification, but when I went to the hardware store he had not any springs, and I have to made this modifications:
I used rubber washeds instead of the springs, I use a lot of this (6x4) in order to have sufficient elasticity.
Here are the results:
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/8735/crw2580nq2.th.jpg
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4...2584zg4.th.jpg
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/4613/crw2585yv4.th.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/7295/crw2593gz2.th.jpg
I lapping my procesor too, and I take 5ºC less than before.
Thanks and sorry for my poor english.
This is my spanish post:
http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=185105
PD: I have a 6400@2800 (55º full TAT), Ninja, P5W-DH...
Hey, that's my method. :D Good job. ;)
I did this on my ninja with the danger den kit today. I realize I did not tighten enough what so ever. I need to get to that, that's most likely why I have high temps.
I just installed my infinity today in a hurry, didn't even have the correct stuff to mount it with modified fashion, so my temps are near stock, but slightly lower than stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by cursivearmy1
I will remount the infinity once i am done with finals next week, just don't have time at the moment to do it.
Just wondering where i might be able to pick up a few of those springs from the first post, if a hardware store, which would be the best?
Also, the knurled knobs would make the mounting easier.
I went to lowes, but i didn't find such a great selection.
i appreciate any info you can give me.
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
If you’re in the Mid-Atlantic and have a Taylor’s DO-IT center in your location, they carry the Midwest Fastener line where you could get the knurled knobs as well as the screws/washers etc., (but not the springs).
However, I’d recommend Petra’s Tech Shop:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoac.html (look never the bottom)
They have the Danger Den and the EK kits. I bought both and prefer the EK, (bigger springs). Both kit have everything you need. The prices are great and the shipping is amazing. I order both kits Monday, and received them Wednesday. The total for both kits, with shipping, was under $17. If you could find everything locally, you’d probable burn that much in gas.
You can see the EK kit in action back here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=127
my local ace hardware had the knurled knobs and the springs ... as well as any other things i needed like screws and washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
I am actually on the west coast, and i have the screws and nuts, but it would be easier to do and have better mounting with the springs and the knurled knobs which are all i need.Quote:
Originally Posted by deees
I appreciate the info and the links. petra seems to be a little pricey since you can do the kit yourself for under $7, and petra charges around that for shipping alone.
thanks, ill check out my local ace and post back once i get everything mounted if they have what i need.Quote:
Originally Posted by s1rrah
Hey guys, re knurled knobs.
I haven't tried this yet, but I thought about drilling and tapping some aluminium thumbscrews. Cut off the external thread first, obviously. Probably need a drill press and vice to ensure your pilot hole is sound. I am going to try this out next time I'm in the workshop.
Well, in fairness to Petra's, they stocking and selling complete kits for specific applications. I also think they'll ship First Class to the East Coast for $1.60. (They included a hand written note with my order reminding me of the fact.)Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
The EK kit, (currently sold-out), does have some nice 4mm screws and heavier springs. If you can find something similar at ACE, post the part numbers so other people can benefit. I checked out the local ACE in my area, but they didn't have any springs that were suitable. They can order them, but it's kind of a subject item, so a part number were help.
excellent guide!
Did the mod, with a "custom" backplate, Gigabyte's CrazyCool plus 2 pci brackets.
I didn't lap my Infinity, as I am not aware of the procedure.
Gave me -3C drop. Now I am o/ced at 3500MHz with my E6300 with 1,36v @ 54C max.
some photos ->
http://aycu24.webshots.com/image/132...0191317_rs.jpg
http://aycu13.webshots.com/image/111...4163569_rs.jpg
http://aycu33.webshots.com/image/137...6431090_rs.jpg
http://aycu34.webshots.com/image/137...2379644_rs.jpg
there's a modder!
good job.
nice work on the backplate hack. although, the PCI brackets most likely don't have as much tensil strength as you really want ...
:)
no, they don't :(
but I believe its sufficient, 'cause if you see the 3rd photo, the m/b isn't bending at all.
I picked a strong one and carefully used the appropriate spacers,
and a less strong, so that it could bend slightly over the other, and tighten the whole structure.
With the stock push pins, my motherboard used to bend (slightly).
I believe Scythe should have made an Infinity rev. B with a backplate.
At my first mount with the stock pins, I wasn't even sure if I had it right.
Too much pressure had to be applied.
This mod rulez :)
yeah. knocked an easy 5C off of my own temps. great mod for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Gonzo
and regarding scythe ...
not only should they have included a backplate ... they shouldn't have wussed out in the first place and used the cheapo push pins.
they went with the established and pre designed intel push pin standard and avoided having to do a tad bit of custom work for a bolt through method. hamstrung their own design, IMO.
bolt thru, FTW!
...
i'm still stoked on the mod'd infinity; running at 35C right now with ambients of 25C on a E6400 at 3.2ghz - 1.3v (move down from 3.6 for the summer months!).
great cooler once properly modified.
again, good work ...
:toast:
Awesome mod :toast:
Just did this for my Infinity on a DS3 and E6400. Instant 3C drop, will be more when AS5 sets.
With a lapped IHS, 21c ambient temp, CPU at 3.4ghz 1.45v sits at 52c under load (orthos)
So you simply used the top plate that came with the Ninja and the back plate, screws and springs from the TT kit with a few extra washers?Quote:
Originally Posted by idiotekniQues
That looks like the easiest way to avoid using the cheesy plastic pushpin things that the Rev. B comes with.
We've been discussing 775 mounting allot over at http://www.silentpcreview.com lately. People are tired of good heatsinks not performing how they should because they follow the reference Intel 775 design.
Here is my latest, and hopefully last installment in the never end quest for Infinity attachment. I purchased the EK CPU mounting kit from Petra’s site primarily for the heavy springs and the 4mm screws and thumbnuts.
The kit worked well, but the strain of the Scythe mounting clips was starting to make me worry.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6...ountce3.th.jpg
I started to look into recreating them in extruded aluminum, (basically adapting the dimensions for increased material thickness). This is a far as I got:
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1003/clip-2.th.jpg
After test fitting, I discovered that it wasn’t viable as a replacement because there is too much junk crowding around the socket, (at least on the AW9D).
A similar clip made by lad:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...25&postcount=4
…avoiding this problem by moving the horizontal tabs higher above the motherboard.
Unfortunately for me, that wouldn’t leave me enough room under the cooling vanes to install the springs and thumbscrews.
The solution was to move the thumbscrews to under the motherboard. Since I would no longer have access to the screw head because of the cooling vanes, I had to come up with a way to stop them from turning.
Using some 3mm thick aluminum stock, I made braces to link the two screws head so they can’t turn. The 4mm holes are threaded and the screw heads have small notches filed in them to allow a #2 set screw lock them into position. Thread lock would probably work as well.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/5035/stockwz2.th.jpg
Here are the pieces assembled to test the fit. The thumbscrews are installed above the back plate to hold anything together. The black spots on the screw heads are the hand-made setscrews.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/9...testzt2.th.jpg
A close-up on a test subject showing the screwhead:
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/5...crewvq1.th.jpg
Once it is assembled on the HSF, lock nuts were used to “preload” the springs so that some of the slack is removed before installation. It also has the effect making the unit more rigid.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/4...bledat4.th.jpg
The back plate was insulated with some green sheet plastic I cut to cover all of the contact area. I’d like to replace the stamped metal back plate with a solid metal one if I can find one. Meanwhile, I’ll need to use plastic spacers to expose more the thumbscrews, so I can get a hold of them.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/7...lateip7.th.jpg
One unexpected benefit of the design is that I can now tight two opposing corners at one time, and don’t have to deal with the problem of the heat sink “rocking” back and force.
A side and corner view showing the attachment to the extruded aluminum part of HSF, using #6 threaded stock and locknuts.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/2775/siderd5.th.jpg
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/852/angledff1.th.jpg
The basic dimensions of the bracket
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/3...ket2ej8.th.jpg
and the brace
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/8928/bracemq9.th.jpg
:toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by deees
here's to high pressure mounts!
great work man. kudos for pushing the envelope.
...
i too noticed my infinity clips were bending as i tightened the screws ...
:)
After I built my new rig, DS3 and E4300+Ninja 1100P, I was being told BY TAT that I was idling at around 48-50C. 1st run I spread the AS5 all over, the 2nd run (remount)I used the dab in the middle and squish it down method. Didnt make any diff. So I decided to lapp and pressure mount to help get temps down as remounting the Ninja alone did nothing.
I went to ACE hardware and they had everything I needed, and they sold wet/dry sandpaper by the sheet. So $.80 for 1 sheet was way better than $4-5 for a pack of each grit. I only did 220, 400, and 600.
When I gave the CPU and HS the razor test they both looked like this:
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1...0004pv0.th.jpg
So I basically had a clam shell between the two.
My workbench:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1...0001sb3.th.jpg
After a few beers, ohh and some work:
http://img468.imageshack.us/img468/9...0021qy1.th.jpg
The 600grit it starting to reflect pretty nicely but I hear beyond this it is VERY diminishing returns. I could have run some Weimens polish on it to make it LOOK better than it is but IDK, its flat and thats what I want.
I only used a single 1/4" washer and a felt type insulator washer under the mainboard. On top, I just used a 1/4" washer top and bottom of spring. I also bought springs that were probably heavier then needed.
Finished:
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/5...0025fm4.th.jpg
This took a solid 8C off my load temps. Later I found out that TAT uses a Tjunction max temp of 100C on L2 stepping instead of 85C so that it is reporting temps 15C too high. So I use SpeedFan now because it still uses 85C. But I am running 3.0Ghz @ 1.35v. Not stellar but good enough. DS3 rev 3.3's dont like high FSB on E4300's so Im limited in my OC choices. But I run about 27C idle and 48C max load. But to keep things in perspective, The C2D's dont have any way to read the DTS by software so any temps by any program are really arbitrary since they are merely a best guess based on a furmula using Tj max aproximated as either 85C or 100C plus a base temp determined by the CPU type. So all temps are relative, not absolute. Thats my relatively noob and vague understanding of the temps anyways.
Anyone know the screw and nut size for a the standard northbridge mounting holes?
M3 works perfectly, already tried on 3 mobos: DFI LP NF4 Ultra-D, DFI ICFX3200 -T2R/G and abit AB9 QuadGT. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by james111
M3?Quote:
Originally Posted by korby
sorry I'm a n00b.... but I know that the northbridge holes are smaller than the ones around the cpu and since the cpu holes use the 6-32 size acording to this pic:
http://members.cox.net/kjboughton/s_4.jpg
what size would I need for the northbridge? 5-30? 4-20? or something like that...
I’d rather move to far off topic, but according to the Intel C2D design guide:
http://download.intel.com/design/pro...x/31368502.pdf
(See the drawing on page 124)
the CPU HSF holes are 4.03mm. (they’re clearance hole for the 3.5mm plastic pins.)
ANSI threads below ¼” are measured in gages and specified by <diameter>-<pitch>
Metric threads are measured in millimeters and typically prefixed with “M”. They’re also specified by <diameter>-<pitch> (Unless the course thread is assumed and they’re just labled M[some number])
#6-32 ANSI threads are 0.138” in diameter, (or about 3.5mm), and will work. (So will M4 threads).
The holes for the chipset coolers are typically smaller, 3mm being the logical choice. I’m not sure if this is covered by any specification. #4-40 UNF should work for clearance, (#5-40 might be tight since it's larger than 3mm), but it’s not going to work with any existing metric threads.
Well I did this mod(great guide OP) - but it hasn't done anything good for me, in fact if anything it's made my temps slightly worse. I was peaking around 65C before I did the mod, since I did it I'm up as high as 68C(same ambient in the room, same fans). I'm not sure whether I just did a truly terrible job lapping it(it took me around 90 minutes and I wasn't very happy with the result, first time lapping) - or whether the stuff I used for mounting it just wasn't put together well by myself. I even used springs, so it's rather dissapointing that it's done at best nothing to my temps. Ah well.
Have you tried reseating the heatsink, (with new TIM), just in case you trapped air between the HSF and the IHS? Do you have a backplate?Quote:
Originally Posted by specofdust
Could you post some pictures of your assembly?
One of the problems with this modification is knowing if your actually improving things, i.e., increasing the pressure between the components. I'd love to have a sensor that would allow me to measure the pressure on the IHS.
If you’re using the original metal clips, what is the distance between the bottom of the clip and the motherboard? If it's more than the thickness of the white pins, (where the clips would rest), you can’t be increasing the pressure. Springs won’t help unless they can provide more pressure than the original pins. Just don’t get too carried away, or you could experience this: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...35&postcount=1
Yeah, I've had a backplate. I realised the problem I think when taking it off to reseat it - I noticed that the HSF was actually listing to one side. As can be seen on the image here there are 6 low-rise caps situated around my CPU socket that interfere with the cooler. It appears that althogh they're low enough that you can get an acceptable contact with pins, when you try to mount it tightly it pulls down on one side, and I'm guessing only contacts around half the IHS. Looks like new CPU cooler time for me :( - great thread though everyone, very very helpful and I'm sure it would have been great had I a friendly mobo.
well, I just did this with my scythe.
he push pins basically died on me. after a few remountings I was about to give up hope, especially since I'd run out of thermal paste and was just reusing the crap that they included with the HSF.
well results are in, went from 55idle to 32idle 70+load(never really tested it more than a few seconds, i don't like seeing temps like that so I stopped turned off my OC and undervolted which helped but didn't fix the problem, then I swapped to the stock cooler which was performing better sadly) to 52load
so basically a huge improvement based off of what I had been getting witha dying mounting system. Now, I just to to apply some arctic ceramic(it's cheaper and works just as good/better than AS5 so I don't want to hear it) and do a few mods to the fan(namely filing the base with paste for better contact)
New case and new paste.
31C idle 43Cload. significant improvement.
now, to do a bit of modding and to see if can drop it a few more C... I'm aiming for 40C.
Thanks for this guide... I managed to mod my Ninja (Rev. B).
I couldn't find any of those fancy knobs around, so I used wing-nuts instead, which actually worked out pretty well. My layout of each screw went:
(bottom)screw -> 4 washers + 1 insulated washer -> (thru mobo) thru heatsink mounting hole -> 1 washer -> spring -> 1 washer -> wing-nut.
I have about 8-10 degrees drop. :)
Where can i get a back plate?
http://www.svc.com/lga775rm-21.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by t1no
also which one should i get for the mounting hardware?
http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoac.html
Thanks,
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekcpuwamoha.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by t1no
Do you need a backplate for this mod?
Not necesarely, but it is recommended. My board is bent now even with the cooler out. :(
Anyone got any UK links for a back plate, Im having trouble finding one.
would this work though?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-Socket-478...QQcmdZViewItem
Hmm...
We are talking about LGA 775 here. o.OQuote:
Socket 478
yeah sorry should have mentioned that!
If I want to mod my infinity, I want to use a backplate. Which is better?(e6600)
Coolermaster:
http://ecd.coolermaster.com/english/...ylist_ebp_n775
Thermalright(this is a backplate right?)
http://www.azerty.nl/producten/produ...5-rm-clip.html
Which is better? the CM one is only 1 euro, the TR is 6 euro. Which is stronger/better for this mod(s775)?
If you can get your hands on a backplate from an Asus Silent Square ... then your almost gauranteed not to bend your backplate.Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
I wish I had a photo of it ... it's a behemoth backplate; super fat and not the typical 'cross' shape like most you'll find available for order ... almost a solid square of metal ...
I had one a while back but sold it ...
Even contacted Asus, but they won't sell the backplate without the cooler ...
I can't get that kind of backplate. I only can get those 2, but i'm not sure if the thermalright is a backplate. Is it a backplate?Quote:
Originally Posted by s1rrah
If so, which is better of those 2?
hi all, (this is my first post :cheer:)
Thanks to google I saw this thread when I was searching for reviews about the Scythe Infinity that I was about to buy.
Well....I can say reading this arcticle my face was going like this: :confused: :rolleyes: :) :D
The Infinity is now on its way to my new E6600 as is the AS-5 and ArctiClean.
The ZM-CS2 is also coming soon:
http://www.zalman.co.kr/images/produ...serator106.jpg
And also the Alphacool CPU 4-hole Bolt Set: (out of stock :( )
http://www.sallandautomatisering.nl/files/26986.jpg
I am going to mount all this on the XFX N680-ISH9 mobo:
http://www.xfxforce.com/media/produc...39170013/2.jpg
More pictures
I think this is all going to work and I hope to be able to post 4 GHz screenshots soon! :dj:
By the way: What cleaning stuff do I have to use for cleaning the connection points of the cpu to the socket?
Because after lapping my cpu the bottom might become dirty too.
Greetings,
intel_478
With the right ambient temps, and a decent 6600 chip, 4+ghz shouldn't be a problem; I've bench tested my own 6400 at over 4.2ghz with the very same pressure mounted infinity.Quote:
I think this is all going to work and I hope to be able to post 4 GHz screenshots soon! :dj:
Dry sand the CPU when lapping it; wet sand works better for the Infinity.Quote:
By the way: What cleaning stuff do I have to use for cleaning the connection points of the cpu to the socket?
Because after lapping my cpu the bottom might become dirty too.
When doing the CPU, if provided when you purchased it, use the little plastic cap that goes over the back of the chip; otherwise, when finished lapping the CPU, just blow the pin side out real good with some compressed air. Also, you can use a magnifying glass to inspect for any particles.
I wouldn't recommend any sort of cleaner, however ... although it might not hurt if you use a high alcohol concentration cleaner and let the chip dry adequately.
Thanks for the tips! I'm going to use that cap that comes with it then.Quote:
Originally Posted by s1rrah
And I think I'm going to practice on my P4 S478 (3,0 prescott) & NB-CoolScraper 120 (rev2.0) first ;)
I'm wondering how you can create a flat surface by moving the big Infinity over the sandpaper... any experience-tips about that would be great!
The infinity will be a bit more challenging to lap. Mostly cause it's so tall and because the little aluminum heat sink attached to the base, makes it awkward to hold.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
Tips for Lapping the Infinity:
1. Wet sand. Use a couple tablespoons of water on the paper (not enough to go running all off the glass); also, to make things really silky smooth, use a drop or two of dish washing soap added to the water. The sand paper will not cut as quickly as if dry sanding, but it will still be cutting the bottom of your cooler, even though it doesn't feel like it. (See the photo at the bottom)
1. Go slow. No need to hurry. If you try to move the cooler too quickly, or with uneven pressure applied, it will grab/stutter across the sandpaper.
2. For the most part, slide the cooler over the sandpaper while simply holding it very loosely on each side of the base; this way, you let the weight of the cooler suffice for downward pressure. As you make progress, and as you get more comfortable with the movement of the cooler over the sand paper, you can begin experimenting with applying a bit more pressure (while still holding evenly on both sides)
3. Stop very 20 minutes or so to check your progress using a marker on the bottom of the cooler-- dry the cooler base, scribble across the entire base with a felt tip marker, then return to lapping very briefly, then check the base to see if the marker is wearing off evenly.
4. Go slow. Take your time. I sanded mine for a good hour before it was totally flat. Went from 400 to 600 to 1000.
...
Here's a shot of mine in the middle of lapping:
http://resume.jbhfile.com/temp/scythe_lap.jpg
As you can see, I'm only using enough water to cover the sand paper; also, but not evident in the shot, I *am* using a small amount of dish soap in the water. As long as the pressure applied was even and slight, the cooler would slide across the paper like it was on ice ... very very smooth. And as you can see from all the copper visible in the shot, it was still very effectivly (if not a bit more slowly than dry) cutting the metal.
...
:up:
Can i also make a home-made backplate? I thought making one from (don't know how you call it in english):Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
http://www.ikea.com/PIAimages/59292_PE165117_S3.jpg
It's called, in the netherlands, "snijplank". You cut meat, vegetable and stuff on it. Can i make a backplate out of this stuff?(People use it here (don't know if they use it also in the USA) as mou nting hardware of containers for dry-ice and stuff. Just cut a hole in it and 4 holes for the screws and you have a mounting bracket.) I hope i have explained it well enough.
EDIT: used with ln2 container:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...eelding011.jpg
Do you think it's good/strong enough for a backplate for the infinity?(with only 4 scew holes)
Thank you very much again s1rrah !!
---
@ barzi:
I think it will do the trick because all the cuttingboards I know are really stiff/strong.
But I suggest to use a metal backplate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
In US. We call 'cutting board.'
:)
Seems that would not be rigid enough. You couldn't obtain as high of a pressure with that as you could with metal. Too flexible.
I could be wrong, though ...
In light of the previous posts about the cutting board-debacle (:p:) I cancelled the zahlman backplate because it's made of plastic and I don't think it wil be strong/good enough, so now I'm going for the Thermalright backplate mentioned earlier in this thread.
I wonder if the Scythe Infinity heatsink is actually bigger or smaller than my current NB-CoolScraper (socket 478) heatsink
By the way, about the logo of this forum: if the word "Max" was placed more to the left it would make more sense (no offence) :horse:
I wouldn't recommend the ZALMAN backplate. I tried it on my bolt-down mod, (back at post #146), but found it too flexible. I switched to the Thermalright, the only issue I have with it is related to the thumbnuts I use to tighen the mounting screws. I needed to add spacers in order to allow me to get a grip on them. This is only because I tighten my unit from behind the motherboard. I'm sure the Thermalright is stiff enough to crush the LGA775 socket if I really wanted to.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
@ deees:
I think it's very true what you say and, as I mentioned above, I have already switched the zalman for the Thermalright backplate.
But a few things 'concern' me:
Where are those spacers situated?Quote:
Since I don’t know how to properly calculate or measure the required 18 –70 lbf preload needed to protect the solder joints in the processor socket, I’ll assume that Scythe factored that into the clip. If you're interested in increasing the pressure on the HSF/processor interface, you could use thinner spacers.
And do I need to drill out the holes of the TT backplate if I use Alphacool's 4M screws?
And.... Now I took another look at you post, I am still very impressed by the very strong clips you made. Any chance you want to make the same for me? Of course I will pay you :up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
So the cutting board is to flexible?
What about these 2 backplates? Is the thermalright one a backplate?(because it's called RM clip)
Are those just the same? Because the CM is only 1 euro, and the thermalright one is 6 euro.
The spacers I was referring to in the version back at post #120 were the ones between the motherboard and the HSF mounting clips. The white part of the Intel pins are about 0.1” thin, and I cut my spacers to the same thickness. The logic was that the clips provide the necessary preload when compressed to that distance from the motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478@ deees:
I think it's very true what you say and, as I mentioned above, I have already switched the zalman for the Thermalright backplate.
But a few things 'concern' me:
Quote:
Originally Posted by deees
Where are those spacers situated?
In later versions, I replaced the spacers with springs to maintain the preload while permitting me to increase the pressure by tightening the mounting screws
Yes, the Thermalright backup plate has 3mm threaded bosses.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
Unfortunately, there is an awful lot of handwork needed for me to make these, so I’d end up charging you more than you’d want to pay. Also, I’d be reluctant to sell them since they could potential cause damage to other expensive computer components and I wouldn’t what to deal with the potential liability. (Don’t you just love the new litigious sociality we live in)?Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
Having said that, I’d certainly be happy to assist you in making your own. They’re time-consuming to make, but not terrible difficult. The tools I used were inexpensive and pretty easy to find. (Although this project has really gotten me thinking about buying a small milling machine). If you decide to try this and have any questions, let me know.
The Thermalright is a back plate made of stamped steel metal. (The same basic plate that is used in a lot of other HSF's.) I can't speak for the Coolmaster one, (it should be stiff enough if it's made out of the right alloy), but I know that is Thermalright will definitely work.Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
@ deees
I believe you right away and I think I won't be able to make better clips than shipped with the Infinity so I'll just use those. But thanks anyway.
It's a bit disappointing that the Thermalright backplate doesn't have 4M holes, especially when I tell you that I paid €8,90 for it.. :shrug:
Ermm, I was wondering if anyone here actually used the Scythe Universal Retention Kit?
If so, can anyone give any thoughts on using this "genuine" mounting kit instead of a modded one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by musa
WOW! just what i was looking for!
Unfortunately there's a copper spacer that seems very dubious to me... that's why I need experienced info on this.
To all my Scythe Modding comrades!
I offer you an Inspirational Photo(tm):
...
http://resume.jbhfile.com/temp/infinity_pwn.jpg
...
Pressure modified this Infinity about 5 months ago; when installing the pressure mod, I discovered my springs were way to weak and flimsy and so, thinking fast, I cut a bic ball point pin into 1/4 inch segments and used these in place of the springs.
Bent my motherboard all to hell but finally got it mounted.
I haven't dismantled it since. Scared to, in fact. It's working so good.
Anyway, when I get a new cooler, and finally get the nerve to break this thing apart, I'll take some photos of my Ghetto Pen Mod(tm) and post them here so as to possibly humor you all.
But it works, so ...
...
E6400 @ 3.51ghz
In a 25C room, currently idling at 38C
:)
(scythe could OWN the air cooling market if they'd just clean up their mounting)
Has anyone tried to increase pressure not by applying more force at the bolts, but by applying a wedge between the 2 prongs and heatsink slots and keep the intel plastic plugs?
@s1rrah
Are all those big fans close to each other really necessary?
My plan was to put the 120mm fan that comes with the Infinity on the back of my case and leve the heatsink passive.
Because there is also an 120mm fan of my powersupply above the cpu.
Can anyone tell me (or gues, based on some experience) if I will be able to oc my E6600 to 3.6GHz (stable) ?
One of the concerns with the Intel design is the ability of the plastic pins to handle even the dead weight of the Infinity, (being 2x the design load). Adding to that any additional pressure would make me nervous.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobHarris
There's also going to be a limit on how much pressure the metal clips themselves can handle before they snap, (although providing support between the motherboard and “feet” will reduce the rotational torque that probably causes most of the failures).
Just be careful if you try to increase pressure using the standard Scythe clips without spacers between the motherboard and the clips.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
Why don’t you check out your local hardware store for some aluminum angle, (L-channel). The stuff I used was ¾” x ¾”x 1/8 “, (or 19x19x3mm). That would give you enough material to make several clips, (including any mistakes) and it ran me about $5USD. I made the cuts using one of these:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...9.1259336&sr=1
…using a 40 TPI blade. The holes were drilled using one of these:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...entPage=family
You could start with the bracket:
http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?i...racket2ej8.jpg
The only “critical” dimensions are the hole locations and the clearance between the horizontal “tabs”. I recommend that you start with the holes, and then work on removing the excess material. The finishing work is just filing and sanding. Even without making the braces, you could have a usable pressure-mod.
Just drill-out the bosses and secure the screws with nuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
The Heatsink fans (two FM121's) are in a somewhat standard and normal push > < push configuration (both blowing IN to the heatsink fins); the rear case fan, which is also somewhat traditional is actually flipped around and is bringing room air straight into the Infinity fan; similarly, in the front of my case, I've mounted two more 120mm fan's to blow room air into the other Infinity fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
Works so good man.
I tested everything, single fan, dual fan's in push > pull > ... case fans in a more traditional intake/exhaust scheme ... and the below configuration seriously beats anything else I've tried.
My Armor case is basically one big mesh box, totally perforated and so using mostly intake fan's works rather well:
...
Here's how it's setup:
http://resume.jbhfile.com/temp/push.push.gif
...
:)
(BTW ... 3.6ghz will depend on your cpu/mb/ram ... properly mounted, the Infinity is fine for 3.6ghz; I run at 3.8ghz sometimes and temps are fine)
Just a thought ... you won't be happy at 3.6ghz running the cooler passive ... it's a so-so passive cooler but not great or anything; certainly not on par with running such as the thermalright's passive ...Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
You don't have to run the fan's that fast; mine are usually at about 40% of their rated speed; 1300 RPM's or something ... adding two fan's really lets you cut the RPM's back.
Thanks very much for all the excellent information and advice people!
I made a quick picture of my current airflow situation. (see picture below)
I will look up the cfm values if needed.
I like the thought of lower rpm very much, because I'm kind of a ultra-low-noise-freak.
Therefor all my fans are currentle max. ~20dB and avg. ~15 dB (automatic digital temp. monitoring fancontroller)
I have read that the Infinity comes with a 23 dB fan and I was hoping to get it operating at ~19 dB.
<edit> I just bought 2 extra low-noise 120mm Scythe fan's </edit> for a push-push intallation on the Infinity to make the 3.6 GHz possible.
Attachment 59774
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...5&d=1168064579Quote:
Originally Posted by msgclb
http://athos.smugmug.com/photos/131031277-L.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by idiotekniQues
That looks like the perfect mount for the Infinity. If the springs work for the 120 Ultra, the proper compression should fall within the same ballpark for the Infinity with the added washers. The springs for the mod on the first page are completely compressed already so they may not be strong enough.
How would you turn those screws? The infinity blocks the top of those screw heads. Can you just push down, squeeze the bolt head with your fingers and turn? Or can these screw heads only be used with the Ninja because the opening at the corners allow a long screwdriver to fit through?
Try it. You'll bleed for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobHarris
:)
You won't be reaching under the infinity to hand tighten regular screws ... have to go with gnurled knobs or use nuts and a wrench.
I went with the wrench option, myself ...
:)
How about placing a hex screwdriver tip over the screw to turn it?
http://img.alibaba.com/photo/5158719...er_Bit_Set.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by deees
From your dwg the holes are 72mm apart on a LGA775 board in both directions right? What would the spacing be on a 478 is it the same?
Sorry if its a dumb question. I think I'm gonna have to make a backplate myself I cant find one anywhere in UK.
LOL just installed this cooler, it roxors...
LOAD 45C :D 316X9.5 1,4VCORE in BIOS w0000t
The holes on the Intel LGA478 reference cooler are 76.2mm x 59.44mm, (3.00"x2.34").Quote:
Originally Posted by lepbob
http://download.intel.com/design/Pen...s/30056401.pdf (page 55).