i have a dual booting to vista 32 bit and i have seen no sata issues with it..that is on my Areca card...but, drivers are tricky to use with vista.
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i have a dual booting to vista 32 bit and i have seen no sata issues with it..that is on my Areca card...but, drivers are tricky to use with vista.
HI guys, very interesting and informative thread. Now after reading all 57 pages I think I have gleaned the basics from it. I am about to put together a new system, IP35 Pro, Q6600 g0, 2x1g Ballistx Tracers 1066 And a TR Ultra 120 Extreme. I have had all the parts since last Thursday but decided that they deserved a better enviroment than an Antec P160 with it's lousy airflow so I am waiting an a Stacker 830 EVO to arrive, hopefully tomorrow. Let me see if I got all the info to set this up properly.
1. Do Ace's mod of reseating the heatpipe system. I already picked up the hardware for it. Even went with all copper screws and nuts.
2. Prepare a thumb drive to flash to 11b bios
3. Lap the U120e ( I should have already done this since I have had it 5 days)
4. I will run my fans off a Nexus, not the board (just in case)
5. I will wait on the droop mod until I see what I have with my 520 Modstream
6. Start slow and work up (sounds good at least ;))
Have I missed something? It is hard to remember it when you read all 57 pages at once. I can't wait to join the fun. This is my first Abit board since my IC7-Max and it looks like this one will just as good.
sounds good!:)
Issues with uguru(3.104),2900xt(7.8) and xp pro.Displays pieces of uguru across the desk top.Anyone else have this issue?
Turbodream had that problem here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=633
IIRC he was able to fix it by changing the Uguru default skin and/or transparancy.
I've stayed away from posting for sometime as most of my post just seem to be offensive to people :( :(
I've been quite content and a believer in the BadAxe2 and that hasn't changed, it is a great product. Yet with a E6850, this Abit IP-35 Pro is killer. As I look through this thread I've seen many whiners about bios updates, yet I haven't found anything that doesn't work just the way it should...
As an old Abit fan that just finally gave up on them, I've got to say three cheers and kudos as this is clearly a Rock and Roll board.. :) :)
Regards to all........
Bah... I cant figure out how to upgrade the bios. My flash drive will not format as a bootable drive. Ive tried the programs that you all have listed here, as well as some others, and just reformatting my drive and making it dos bootable through the vista interface. I think it may be because I am in Vista 64 bit. Has anyone else done this succesfully in vista 64 bit? I dont want to flash until I am absolutely certain that it will be safe.
I´ve tried some bench now with my SS and E6850. Don´t know whats stopping me for going further. Maybe motherboard or cpu.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=229611
I just got my IP-35 Pro setup and although it is impressive I am incredibly dissapointed by one aspect.
So you can't run your ram at a slower speed then the FSB? The lowest divider is 1:1?
Am I correct?
I mean, my chip has more to give then my ram does, how can I run the FSB up and max out my CPU while allowing my memory a more relaxed time of it?
And another thing I need help with...
Ok, so I go into the BIOS, crank the voltages... well, within reason, and set the fsb to 500mhz... trying for a 4ghz suicide run.
Anyways, save my settings, system reboots, turns off, turns back on and the boots up at my previous setting, ignoring all the changes I made.
WTF?
Seriously, so far I'm a touch dissapointed with this motherboard.
Any ideas? Do I need to update my BIOS?
Thanks all! :up:
i agree with you...it is a 5 star board...i realize some had a few bad experiences and they have not gone unnoticed...but...all board makers let a few slip out of the factory that are duds!
as for bios updates...abit has done a GREAT job this time!...lets hope they keep up the good work...i rather not have a repeat of the QuadGT board bios updates, which was nill for about 4-5 months after the release....it was not like the pro board which had a good official bios release...the QuadGT official release bios had a lot more flaws-defects in that bios; not so for the IP35 Pro bios.
I see that as a pretty handy feature. On previous boards I've had, if it didn't like the overclock it wouldn't boot to bios at all(I'm thinking boards like the DFI NF4 Sli DR;)). Instead you were forced to flush cmos every time. In addition that was pre little switches on the back. That was frustrating.Quote:
And another thing I need help with...
Ok, so I go into the BIOS, crank the voltages... well, within reason, and set the fsb to 500mhz... trying for a 4ghz suicide run.
Anyways, save my settings, system reboots, turns off, turns back on and the boots up at my previous setting, ignoring all the changes I made.
WTF?
Seriously, so far I'm a touch dissapointed with this motherboard.
Any ideas? Do I need to update my BIOS?
Thanks all!
Just save your overclock in the profiles in bios (F6). If it resets as you say, then reload that profile (F7) and make the necessary adjustments.
RLM
Hi,
Get the board yesterday and after some "cooling tweaking" discovered that the heatpipe heatsink are in painted alloy not in real copper ??? too bad!
so have had to managed a new cooling system:
http://pix.nofrag.com/9/e/3/12b11c47...8f17f784cc.png
http://pix.nofrag.com/3/d/f/62b7f635...a5f26fc82e.png
will test later when my cpu will arrived at home .
is this the PWM area that is showing by µguru (temp value)?
http://pix.nofrag.com/4/0/6/bf4cf41f...f9d792696b.png
wonder if it will be enough for cooling them as I saw poeple report till 100°C for the PWM
http://pix.nofrag.com/0/6/f/28165520...db5ffddd76.png
tomati,
Would be really interested to see how effective those ramsinks will be on the PWMs and what temps you get. I'm guessing you will be mounting fans over them?
I re-installed my heatpipe the other day, and was very tempted to stick a waterblock on my NB and do the same as you with the PWM's.
Are those swiftech ramsinks? Any danger when it comes to taking them off again and can they be re-used?
What is the heatsink model you are using on the southbridge? A thermalright?
Cheers
RLM
Hi RML,
they are pretty same as swiftech but this is the enzotech version.
Don't plan to put any fan over there , only 2 on the U120e ( push/pull) and fan case as I'm concerned by silencing my new rig ( need the most silent pc with the best O/C)
Anyway I also started an other project for the PWM, making a base where I can fit an heatsink.
http://pix.nofrag.com/6/9/0/37181d47...1a4a9aad4b.png
http://pix.nofrag.com/f/1/0/2f17b188...84dc8bfcf0.png
just a starting phase.
For the reused of the ramsink, I get T411 and T412 ( heat pad) if needed, but I used them before on my dfi 965 and could reused them now.
For the southbridge it's the HR_05 sli, due to some solid caps in the way I have had to fit it like this. ( not straight right)
This post isn't really meant as a flame, just a little tired and annoyed with this board at the moment.... here is my current list of complaints:
1> vDroop. 0.13V under load (Q6600 @ BIOS 1.45V 3700).
2> Random system instability (RAM gets errors whilst @ stock, then works perfectly for several hours even @ like 1100 4-4-4 2.2V; seems to cycle between the two). Restarting, and powering off and on don't seem to effect.
3> Four phase PWM's get really hot. This is what is currently holding my OC back (would go higher, but 3800 needs more volts, and anything more than this makes PWM temps go way high, then the system restarts). It is fairly consistent, I can prime happily until PWM's hit 85C ish, then BSOD. Yes, there is a fan pointing at them.
4> PCI based Gigabit Ethernet. .... que cosa?
5> Randomly not booting after resetting BIOS (even taking out battery / power cycling / etc). I've had errors ranging from 7B to C1 to 0D - 0D isn't even mentioned in the book.
t
I had a Conroe in it up until last weekend - PWMs were much cooler then. Obviously, Quads are a lot more load, but this board was supposed to be optimised for it etc :(
t
Agreed. My E6600 didn't drive the pwm up like the Q6600 does with a high OC. FWIW, my board is pretty solid overall, with minimal droop, but I do think the pwm breaking down at high temps is causing me problems reaching max OC as well. Same type of resets you describe when pushing heavy loads and 4 GHz. The board is great for pushing C2D, and I think is solid for moderate and even fairly high OC's with C2Q. I think that when the dust settles it will be shown that some other boards out there are the be-all/end-all for maxing C2Q, where this will be just the top of the 2nd tier.
agree, the pwms on my board is also limiting my OC... Can go to 3.6 on my q6600 easy and prime a bit until the pwm overheats... haven't really had the time to do the screw/bolts mod yet but ill post some results after i get a chance to do them.
Aslo, it seems like everytime i take my computer apart and reassemble it, i have booting problems and have to reset my cmos. Like last time i took my comp apart to remount the mobo heatsink with ceramique. After putting everything back together, my comp would just fail to boot. It would power up for one second then turn itself off and repeat... had to reset the cmos jumper on the board to solve the problem =/
I just bought a IP35 PRO to replace this POS EVGA / FOXCON hows this thing overclocking Q6600 GO?
Any advice about 2 2x1gb kits that works without problems in this board?
gskill hz
That bolt mod is fantastic. :clap: Dropped my pwm temps 20C! I also stuck a 60mm fan bw my tunic tower and the board, it fit perfectly, the tunics fins hold it down and it blows air right over the pwm. I also loosened up my tuniq tower a bit, bc I noticed that my board was warping around it and it lowered temps considerably. Now I am not breaking 60C when priming, with like 26C ambient @ 3.5 ghz and 1.38v!!! :) :)
is that really an actual 0.13V droop from idle to load or a combination of the initial value not being what is set in the BIOS plus a droop for idle to load?
this appears to be a design decision to allow the continued use of the other PCI-E even when the x4 is in use - on mobos like the Gigabytes using the x16 + x4 disables the other PCI-E slots.Quote:
4> PCI based Gigabit Ethernet. .... que cosa?
droop is normal for all boards...that is by intel design...they allow for droop...my droop under load is around 0.08 to 0.09v...you might have a 12v rail problem.
i tell you right now..you are running to tight of memory settings for DDR-1100...you might think of boosting your Vdimm to 2.4v to see if that helps...OR...raise your timing to 5-5-5 with 2.2v...performance is barely going to change by jumping to 5-5-5.Quote:
2> Random system instability (RAM gets errors whilst @ stock, then works perfectly for several hours even @ like 1100 4-4-4 2.2V; seems to cycle between the two). Restarting, and powering off and on don't seem to effect.
you need to do my heatpipe mod to help with the PWM temp and NB temp...top of the pageQuote:
3> Four phase PWM's get really hot. This is what is currently holding my OC back (would go higher, but 3800 needs more volts, and anything more than this makes PWM temps go way high, then the system restarts). It is fairly consistent, I can prime happily until PWM's hit 85C ish, then BSOD. Yes, there is a fan pointing at them.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...55#post2330555
nothing wrong with my connection...i haven't seen any difference between PCIe and PCI based network chipset....now, if you are loading the PCI bus down with other hardware, that might affect overall network performance.Quote:
4> PCI based Gigabit Ethernet. .... que cosa?
C1 is a problem reading the memory..could be your main problem overall...might try some other sticks or just take it down to one stick...switch out the stick to try the other....try the other slots to see if one slot is better than the other.Quote:
5> Randomly not booting after resetting BIOS (even taking out battery / power cycling / etc). I've had errors ranging from 7B to C1 to 0D - 0D isn't even mentioned in the book.
@Ace-a-Rue out of curiousity did you hook up the additional 4 pin molex lead to the board and is it even needed without a second GFX Card?
i tried it with and without...i noticed no difference but my setup is only using the 4x and 16x slot...if i was using the 1x slot, it might make a difference...the 4 pin plug is meant to be used as an auxillary or supplemental power...probably if the board traces had higher resistance and therefore dropped the voltage, i would think the additional or supplemental power source would overcome that.
Cool!:up: ...glad you had good success with my mod...really not totally my idea...someone else had mentioned about removing the heatpipe and adding either AS5 or ceramique but not any bolts and nuts...so...i just took it to the next level...i wanted to save the heatpipe system and not bastardize it like i did to my QuadGT board...i hate adding more money just to beef up the cooling system...it looked like the heatpipe system should perform nicely...once i removed it to do the mod, i understood why the temps were high with it in the original configuration!
Ace, I did your blot mod and am I ever glad I did. An this is without ever even running the board at all. I think I found why some people may be having such bad PMW temp problems. I think you will see what I mean in the picture. And also, 1/2" bolts worked just fine for me ;).
Pntgrd, and bfox2,
what is your current pwm temp right now? and how much different temp before the mod?
YES!..it is what i had but mine was a little worse...i hardly had any indentations and the TIM just peeled off like olive oil was coating the bottom of the TIM!:D
anyway...i updated my post with using 3/4" bolt length to make it just a little easier for everyone...you must be like me;) ...one who likes to work in cramp spaces, under the most extreme conditions and upon success, walk away with a great sense of satisfaction!:up:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...47#post2330347
Sorry Goone, no pre temps. I haven't even installed the thing yet. Got my Stacker for it all today. Did this first and now I am in the process of lapping an Ultra 120 Extreme. I should have had this done already as I have had it for a week.
Of 3 mb's in the last year: Epox 9npa, DFI NF4, and this, all have had high PWM temps when doing dual burns. It ranged from 80c to 105c, 80c being on a cool day. Ambients were about 28c. I don't see what the big deal is about this, does it lower your overclock? I thought these mosfets are rated to handle 135C+.
i think most relate lower temps to a higher success with overclock...i believe that is where it comes from.
Right now my pwm temp is 45c, idling at 3.5ghz. Loaded it gets up to mabye 65-70C ish depending on ambient. ambient being anywhere from 80-95F(i live in arizona, its 115F outside). Before i was hitting 65C idle and 85C priming.
Its definetly worth it, even if you have to take your machine apart:up:
Well, my lowest pwm is 77c with a fan over the pwm hs. That's the lowest I've ever gotten mine to. I get 50 to 60c just at idle just 10 min after a cold boot. Depends on the vcore too I guess. I mean, how important can this be? Is there a voltage ripple if these get too high?
Thanks guys for the replies, right now idle at 49 load could get up to 80-85 with a fan over it, this is running with quad right after upgrade from 6600. Too much hassle to take this thing apart.
Got to be honest, after bolting mine down and using mx-1, I didn't really notice much of a difference. I did take care to make sure that the heatsinks were bolted down flat and securely.
Maybe mx-1 wasn't the best choice in this instance, don't know.:confused:
As I said previously, on my setup the greatest impact has come from replacing the 40mm fan with an 80mm fan over the PWM area and it's surroundings. Temps have dropped by 10-20c.
On previous small Ftt runs, my PWMs were hitting 83c. With this fan, and even higher voltages, I'm hitting 63c.
RLM
Another bios update, this one noted performance improvements with email.
http://fugger.netfirms.com/B02.zip
Enjoy at your own risk
This is really good to see Abit stepping up the bios releases.
12B02 supposedly addresses the low firewire transfer rate too
Could be same problem I've had with the last two bios updates.Quote:
Shocker.. couldn't boot into windows with a mild overclock.. avoid
Given a bit of time they do seem to kick in and start overclocking again. Don't know why this happens.
RLM
Of course it was page 16, how could I forget.
Just spent a few minutes hunting this down, before I try the new bios. Thought helpful to post it again.
Quote:
this is what i used since i did save the original bios to my USB thumb drive...if you do not have the capacity then change the "sy" switch to "sn"!
/py /sy /WB /cd /cp /cc /CKS
do not overclock while flashing...and...don't forget to clear CMOS after the flash is complete...load default bios settings after clearing CMOS, save and reboot back into the bios to change settings from there.
does anyone know if their is any difference in which memory slots u use?
12.B02 seems safe enough to me. I flashed with FlashMenu. Nothing startling that I can see.
After flying thru this new BIOS I see an option for FP HD Audio or FP AC97 Audio I hadn’t seen before.
Super Pi Mod 1M, 2M, and 4M times are the same, or very very close to the same, as 12.B01. And 11.BIN for that matter.
I always use the procedure below with all my systems. I only own Abit motherboards and do the same with all of them. At the second “Enter BIOS” I set my normal 340 x 10 with the same voltages and it fired right up.
Clear CMOS and Load Optimized Defaults.
Unplug from wall.
Turn the computer on to drain all power from the capacitors.
Remove the battery.
Move the CMOS Jumper on the motherboard (or rear panel switch) to the Clear CMOS position.
Let it sit a few minutes.
Put it all back together again and move the Jumper (or rear panel switch) back to the Normal position.
Start it up.
Enter BIOS and "Load Optimized Defaults", F10 to save & exit. It restarts...
Enter BIOS to make the rest of your necessary changes.
my board has no differences...other posters over time have said this slot works better over another slot...you will need to insert the memory in the other slots to see if it can post to boot and then get a better overclock...now, if you are using all four slots and having difficulty overclocking, this is a known limitation in getting a high overclock...remove some memory and then try with the overclock.
I´m having trouble to run this board with divider. When i set fsb to 400 and divider 1:1:x0 to get my memory at 600mhz i get the code 54. Tried many different voltages but no improvment :( Anyone here can use dividers ?
are you sure it is 600, not 800 mhz?
First off thanks for the link.
Running B02.
Shakey start, but back up to previous overclock. Tested in NuclearMC, SuperPi and Cinebench10. No real difference. SuperPi exactly the same. NuclearMC and Cinebench very marginal increase.
Only things noticed were as mentioned the FP audio, and the fact that my thermal control option has now disappeared from cpu feature options. Not sure if it is tied into one of the other settings, as it was there when I first booted into bios.
Would be interested to know what and where these increased performances are.:)
Edit: Just read this on the Abit forum.
RLMQuote:
new 12B02
Supposedly 4GB memory capability improved, general chipset latency tweaks, and a few other minor changes such as Firewire transfer speeds being improved, use at your own risk.
i've benched 600 before.
it has to do with your memory as well.
just used the same settings (400FSB), and threw my RAM up to 1200mhz for the 1st time. Everything looks great for me. OH yeah I forgot to change from a 1Tcr to 2Tcr, but it still booted into windows, I guess that just shows how weak the 1T CR is. Here are some screenies with benchmarks.
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/6...hz1taa5.th.jpg
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8...hz1tqa0.th.jpg
cant wait to see what you get Ace-a-Rue, actually I get a much higher score in Sandra Mem with my RAM@4-4-4-12 2T 1094, I wonder if my CPU@4.1 was the reason for it..heres the shot
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4...amemzu2.th.jpg
darn!:D..that's UNREAL!;)
my teamgroup DDR 1000 won't cut it at ALL!...i have the corsair DDR1143 but it does about the same on this board, maybe slightly better than the teamgroup...i will throw it in later tonight to see.
you are running at 1:1.5 FSB memory ratio which puts it into the 1066 strap...that is why you have that hellish memory bench..nice going!:)
I really do like this board...I have had 0 issues so far, and Im running the latest Beta Bios (not the one just posted today). The only thing is, I wish their were more mem divider options
had to back my memory off to 850Mhz 4-4-4-12 1T. My previous setting of 970Mhz 4-4-4-12 1T wasn't stable after an extended test. I tried all the way up to 2.25v and I didn't want to go past that. DDR2-1020 5-5-5-15 2T wasn't stable at 2.25v either.
So I'll stick with DDR2-850 4-4-4-12 1T 2.1v. I have 4x 1GB so maybe that's a factor.
good memory article that says, we are wasting our money if we buy memory any faster than DDR-800...AND...DDR3 memory is a joke at the moment!
Quote:
Today we look at why DDR3 memory has provided us with no noticeable performance gains over existing DDR2 memory. The reasoning is quite simple really and it has to do with the Core 2 Duo processors lack of need for memory faster than 800MHz. The article investigates this in a little more detail and looks to the future, when DDR3 will become an important memory standard.
Over the past few months we have published quite a few DDR2 memory related articles that looked at how timings, frequency and capacity influence the performance of Intel’s Core 2 Duo processors. The results did not really surprise us, though many of the readers did seem shocked by our findings. First of all memory timings (latency) make very little difference, as CAS 3-3-3-8 T1 delivered just 5% more memory bandwidth at 800MHz when compared to CAS6-6-6-18 T2 timings. In almost all games this made near no difference, particularly at higher resolutions such as 1920x1200. So memory timings are somewhat irrelevant for Core 2 Duo systems then.
http://www.legionhardware.com/document.php?id=674
Could somebody please give me some referrence points to get me going on overclocking this board with my Q6600 G0? The board will be here in a day and I am not at all familliar with the Abit Bios and motherboards!
Couple of pointers on whats good at stock setting up till what point and what not to over due on some of the settings, possibly a explanation of some of the settings too right now I am on a EVGA 680i and the Abit Bios are completely foreign to me!
Best regards .....BE
Read the thread. Everyone has posted some sort of successful voltage at some point, as well as explained most of the significant features.
Just received my IP35 Pro from newegg today, along with an E4300, Ultra 120 Extreme, and a hard drive. Just waiting on my G.Skill to come.
I'll post my results when I get it running.
I've only had my system up and running with the E6850 since yesterday, after a couple of hours of playing, here's where I'm at...
http://aycu06.webshots.com/image/264...1387600_rs.jpg
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=230457
btw, o'c was done with Abit IP35-PR0, my signature reflects my new mobo on order.
I've booted into windows @ 4.2Ghz using the x9 multi, but crashed almost immediatley. Likely need to up vcore to 1.65+ to get it stable.
Hello everybody and thank you for this awesome thread! :YIPPIE:
I have read most of this with the most gratest interest, but there is just this one thing I´m still not sure how to do it correctly. I have tried to get all information available but there are still a few questions unanswered...:confused:
It´s when you´re flashing bios with the USB stick!!!!:shocked:
1.
Can I just copy the bios files with changed names to a USB stick? I mean the same stick, which allready has the DOS system files in it..? or do I need a second USB stick where I copy those Bios files after booted from the other?
2.
Can I for example extract the bios files to "whatever folder" in the hard drive and flash from there? Is it how relevant to put bios files in to a folder in a first place? Can someone please explain this c.l.e.a.r.l.y enough so even dumper can understand it... :rocker:
Chears! :toast:
I will add what I've seen while I am nothing like an overclocker.
I am using my new PC for editing (mostly). I have just upgraded from a 4 years old PC. I built it myself and fired it up but I haven't install XP yet.
What I did was to put the memory to 1:1 and then cracked up to 3g only by FSB and it was a bit of a shock that at bios the temperature was 49 just like before. I have a B3 and it is hotter from what I have read but I will live with that...
I will inform you how it goes. My previous mobo was an IC-7...
Hello to all.
You are welcomed to Liquid forums if you need something.
P.S. A strange thing I observed is that the 3rd SATA at bios is holding the 2nd place? I mean it is SATA 1 SATA 3 and then SATA 2...:eek:
the easiest thing to do is to take your flash drive and format it into a boot flash drive. there are many links to how to do this... the easiest for me to remember is this one (since i'm a regular there): http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31878
after you create that, you will need to copy awdflash and the bios file you want to flash onto the usb drive.
go into your bios and set the usb drive as your first boot and you will be in DOS mode... then use the switches provided by ace-a-rue on page 16? i believe and voila! that's it.
Can anyone confirm please regarding jonny's Vdroop mod the ohms resistance of ~620~650ohms
Is that value set before soldering to the board (so ~ 635ohms set before you fit to the board) or is the variable resister set at ~ 635ohms once connected to the two points on the board
thanks for any help given :up:
Could please someone tell me why at bios (even 1.1) I have
SATA 1
SATA 3
SATA 2
SATA 4
SATA 5
SATA 6
Isn't supposed that the 3rd SATA must be 3rd and not 2nd?:eek: :mad:
Here is my best guess:
On the IP35 Pro the six SATA connectors are arranged in three stacks, two in each stack. 1, 3, & 5 are closest to the motherboard, 2, 4, & 6 are above. Like this:
6-4-2
5-3-1
If you look in Device Manager, IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers, you will see two ICH9 Serial ATA Storage Controllers. Controller 1 is 4 port and Controller 2 is 2 port.
So 1, 2, 3, & 4 are on Controller 1, and 5 & 6 are on Controller 2. But now also consider how they are mounted on the motherboard.
1 – next to MB - Controller 1
3 – next to MB - Controller 1
2 – above 1 - Controller 1
4 – above 3 - Controller 1
5 – next to MB - Controller 2
6 – above 5 - Controller 2
So there you have it:
SATA 1
SATA 3
SATA 2
SATA 4
SATA 5
SATA 6
This isn't the first board that does this. My old NF4 Ultra (IIRC) boot order was 2-4-1-3.
when i 1st saw that out of order numbers, i said, "HUH"!.."here we go again"!:D
I flashed to the 12_bo2 BETA BIOS last night just to see if I could find any extra bandwidth or lower latency as it was suggested these were tweaked in this build.
I was not able to get my 12 hour + Orthos stable rig with retail BIOS 11 stable for more than 30 minutes at 462 x 8 DDR1109 CL5 2T with the 12_bo2 BIOS.
I cant find any performance improvement over the retail 11 BIOS.
Has anyone got 12_bo2 Orthos stable for any length of time & if so have you found any performance gain?
One last thing I too can bench DDR1200 @ 3.6GHz 400 x 9 with both 11 & 12_bo2 but it is not Orthos stable & it is slower than 450 x 8 DDR1000 CL5 2T which means its no good for daily use even though DDR1200 sounds great.
Also as viper said earlier I too love this board & have not had or got 1 single problem with it yet its an excellent board.
CN
the latest beta bios appears to be the same as the previous beta...i am back to bios 11, the 2nd official sanctioned bios release....
my system is not prime stable...i really don't care because i will never grind all four cores at 100%...i call stable, 24/7 as whatever you do with your machine and it does not give you a BSOD, freeze the screen, randomly reboot on you, programs do not close out on you or you bounce back to the desktop if you are gaming...to me, that is a stable system.
Same here I have gone back to official 11.
Sure stable is whatever you personally deem acceptable all I was trying to do using Orthos was tell people BETA 12_b02 failed Orthos running the same settings that passed 12 hours + with official 11.Quote:
my system is not prime stable...i really don't care because i will never grind all four cores at 100%...i call stable, 24/7 as whatever you do with your machine and it does not give you a BSOD, freeze the screen, randomly reboot on you, programs do not close out on you or you bounce back to the desktop if you are gaming...to me, that is a stable system.
I have also spent 10 hours + playing with my rig trying to get it to run Orthos with BETA 12_bo2 but couldn't get it to run past 30 minutes & as Orthos is an accepted stress tester I thought I would post my findings which may help others.
CN
Out of the 2x1gb ddr2-800's listed on the first page, are any of them better then the others for the ip35-pro with the e6750 I'm getting? I wont be benching, just oc'ing and gaming. Should I just go with which ever I can find the cheapest?