Water cooling the Asus Maximus SE X38

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03-02-2008, 01:39 PM
Talonman

Most of us ordered our mobo's when the SE was the only Maximus out.
03-02-2008, 01:42 PM
Talonman

Quote:

Originally Posted by C'DaleRider

While not exactly an SE, actually just the plain Jane Maximus Forumla, I got my loop, as it is, up and running last week. Course, not much different from what others have posted here.

Not much really.....Maximus Formula mb, Q6600 cpu @ 3.6GHz, 2 x 2GB Mushkin Redline DDR2-1000 RAM, Asus HD3870 video card......D-Tek FuZion cpu block, DD MPC universal chipset block on NB (essentially the same block as a Maze 4, just different pattern on block itself w/pins instead of a maze), Laing DDC2 pump w/XSPC top, Swiftech MicroRes, Thermochill 120.3 rad w/3 Zalman ZM-FC fans.....but I've found them to whine too much so they'll be replaced soon with Scythe S-Flex "F" fans.

Nice looking build..... :up:
03-03-2008, 08:09 AM
Durkadurka

Quote:

Originally Posted by neo_rtr

what was the problem with the motherboard? did you solv it? how?

I bought a new one :rolleyes:

Testing some OC'ing now, after almost 2 hours of Prime95 at 3800 MHz, here are my temps:

Ambient: 24 C
Core1: 44 C (D-Tek Fuzion w/washer no nozzle)
Core2: 39 C
Core3: 42 C
Core4: 42 C
NB: 34 C (EK S-Max Acetal)
SB: 35 C (EK NB/SB ASUS 3 Acetal)

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9679/3800ae5.jpg

I notice my 5V goes down to 4.85v. Should I be worried?
03-03-2008, 08:15 AM
Kingslayer

Hey does any of u guys know how to get the ek supreme on the asus maximus ??? what do i have to change / buy to do that
03-03-2008, 12:09 PM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durkadurka

I bought a new one :rolleyes:

I like your style! (i would do the same!)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durkadurka

I notice my 5V goes down to 4.85v. Should I be worried?

Mine does the same. I dont think do. I did measure it with a voltometer and on mine was 5v!
03-03-2008, 03:07 PM
Exaby1e

Hi everybody!
I'm about to remove all the heatpipes from my Maximus Formula non-SE. But I don't know whats the best way to do it. I have a hairdryer and coldspray (-55C). Which method is best, heat or cold?
03-03-2008, 03:19 PM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exaby1e

Hi everybody!
I'm about to remove all the heatpipes from my Maximus Formula non-SE. But I don't know whats the best way to do it. I have a hairdryer and coldspray (-55C). Which method is best, heat or cold?

I did it with cold!!
there is a collection of ways,pics on the 2nd page if you follow my sig.

have fun! and let us know your temps as well
03-03-2008, 03:55 PM
Talonman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durkadurka

I bought a new one :rolleyes:

Testing some OC'ing now, after almost 2 hours of Prime95 at 3800 MHz, here are my temps:

Ambient: 24 C
Core1: 44 C (D-Tek Fuzion w/washer no nozzle)
Core2: 39 C
Core3: 42 C
Core4: 42 C
NB: 34 C (EK S-Max Acetal)
SB: 35 C (EK NB/SB ASUS 3 Acetal)

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9679/3800ae5.jpg

I notice my 5V goes down to 4.85v. Should I be worried?

Thanks for the post buddy! ...

Does this look correct to you? :)
Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU ------------- Ambient --- NB Block
Durkadurka -------- 1.52v ------ 34°C -- 2HR Prime95 --- QX9650 @ 3.8GHz ------ 24.0°C --- EK S-MAX Acetal

I think I got er right... OP Updated with fresh data... :up:
03-03-2008, 04:01 PM
Exaby1e

Quote:

Originally Posted by neo_rtr

I did it with cold!!
there is a collection of ways,pics on the 2nd page if you follow my sig.

have fun! and let us know your temps as well

Thanks! :) I going to try it tomorrow with cold. The MB is all new, so I hope the heatpipe will pop off easy.
03-03-2008, 04:07 PM
Talonman

We wish you well brother... :)

And do report back!
03-03-2008, 07:32 PM
Kingslayer

Hey how did u guys get the ek supreme on this board what do you have to change??
03-04-2008, 10:29 AM
Durkadurka

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonman

Thanks for the post buddy! ...

Does this look correct to you? :)
Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU ------------- Ambient --- NB Block
Durkadurka -------- 1.52v ------ 34°C -- 2HR Prime95 --- QX9650 @ 3.8GHz ------ 24.0°C --- EK S-MAX Acetal

I think I got er right... OP Updated with fresh data... :up:

Yup, looks right :)
Running Prime95 right now at 9.5 x 425. NB temp is stilll 34C at 1.58 vNB, with ambient at 23C.
03-04-2008, 10:39 AM
Talonman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingslayer

Hey how did u guys get the ek supreme on this board what do you have to change??

I think it just fits on as is...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durkadurka

Yup, looks right :)
Running Prime95 right now at 9.5 x 425. NB temp is stilll 34C at 1.58 vNB, with ambient at 23C.

Thanks for the confromation... Nice temps too, considering your ambient... :up:

Welcome into the ABC...
03-04-2008, 01:15 PM
Exaby1e

I need som help here ;)
I've been trying to remove the heatsink from my Maximum Formula non-SE now with coldspray, but it doesn't come off? I did spray it about 10 seconds and then wiggled it, but nothing happens?
03-04-2008, 01:22 PM
Durkadurka

On my first board (SE), I put it outside (-10C) for about 30 min, and it came straight off (board not used before removal).
On my second board (non-SE), I put it in the freezer for 15 min, and it came straigt off (board run on air cooling to flash to latest bios with e6600 cpu).

Try the last method, no hazzle at all.
03-04-2008, 01:24 PM
Exaby1e

But isn't coldspray like the same method?
How did you do after freezing?
03-04-2008, 01:33 PM
Durkadurka

Detach the NB/SB cooling heatpipe from the MoSFET cooler, and then you should be able to just lift it off.
If it doesnt come off easy, put a plastic card next to the NB chip, and then use a screwdriver to gently wiggle it off. Just dont use any force :)
03-04-2008, 01:53 PM
Exaby1e

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durkadurka

Detach the NB/SB cooling heatpipe from the MoSFET cooler, and then you should be able to just lift it off.
If it doesnt come off easy, put a plastic card next to the NB chip, and then use a screwdriver to gently wiggle it off. Just dont use any force :)

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow.
I managed to get the SB heatsink of now, but the rest is still stuck :(
03-05-2008, 12:39 AM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exaby1e

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow.
I managed to get the SB heatsink of now, but the rest is still stuck :(

for example
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2907/pict0139dg0.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1959/pict0142vq4.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
03-05-2008, 02:40 AM
perfection

neo_rtr did you have to heat up the cooler or chill it?? or did it just lever off?
03-05-2008, 02:58 AM
neo_rtr

Just an observation

NB volts............ NB Loaded............Ambient...............Difference
1.60v.................. 22......................12,7....................9, 3........... EK S-MAX Acetal (2 bloocks on loop)
1.55v.................. 26......................16,6....................9, 4.......... EK S-MAX Acetal (2 bloocks on loop)
1.70v.................. 28......................19.......................9 ............ Sixdesign sold by MIPS (5 blocks on loop)
1.46v.................. 30......................21,1.................... 8,9......... EK S-MAX Acetal
1.70v...................33.....................24. ......................9........... Sixdesign sold by MIPS (5 blocks on loop)
1.52v...................34.....................24. .....................10............EK S-MAX Acetal

So we have here about 9c warmer blocks than the ambient temperature.
What do you think of this table?
03-05-2008, 03:00 AM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by perfection

neo_rtr did you have to heat up the cooler or chill it?? or did it just lever off?

I tried to heat it up first but it dint move. Then with comressed air i chill it and it come off with some leverage as on the previous picture
03-05-2008, 05:10 AM
Talonman

Quote:

Originally Posted by neo_rtr

Just an observation

NB volts............ NB Loaded............Ambient...............Difference
1.60v.................. 22......................12,7....................9, 3........... EK S-MAX Acetal (2 bloocks on loop)
1.55v.................. 26......................16,6....................9, 4.......... EK S-MAX Acetal (2 bloocks on loop)
1.70v.................. 28......................19.......................9 ............ Sixdesign sold by MIPS (5 blocks on loop)
1.46v.................. 30......................21,1.................... 8,9......... EK S-MAX Acetal
1.70v...................33.....................24. ......................9........... Sixdesign sold by MIPS (5 blocks on loop)
1.52v...................34.....................24. .....................10............EK S-MAX Acetal

So we have here about 9c warmer blocks than the ambient temperature.
What do you think of this table?

Not bad! I think it also does show the EK ans MIPS blocks are neck-and-neck performance wise...
03-05-2008, 10:47 AM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonman

Not bad! I think it also does show the EK ans MIPS blocks are neck-and-neck performance wise...

How about to come up with a "standar" test for the freezers and SW (Everest, Orthos,Prime) that we choose to use in order to measure the test and report the temps.
Something like.
tested with everest, 30mins / 1hours,
WC: 2 blocks (CPU , NB) / 5 blocks (CPU, NB,SB, Mosfet 1, 2)
Ambient 1 C/F: Test 1
Ambient 2 C/F :Test 2
Ambient 3 C/F :Test 3
CPU: ??
Vcore: ??
NBvolt: ??

In a way it will look something like this
Tested SW: Everest (if we say that we test with everest)
Duration: 30mins / 1Hour (might better to choose 1 hour)
WC: 2 blocks (CPU , NB)
Ambient 1 24C: Test 1 NB=34C
Ambient 2 23C :Test 2 NB=33C
Ambient 3 15C :Test 3 NB=25C
CPU: Q6600 @ 3.2Ghz
Vcore: 1.35V
NBvolt: 1.40V
03-05-2008, 12:43 PM
Talonman

A standard might be nice, but I have growen attached to my current listing... :)

I think if we did that, we would have to start from scratch again.
03-05-2008, 12:56 PM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonman

A standard might be nice, but I have growen attached to my current listing... :)

I think if we did that, we would have to start from scratch again.

Sounds good. As your 1st post suggests : 1HR Prime95 is to be tested with.
Cheers!
03-05-2008, 01:33 PM
C'DaleRider

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exaby1e

I need som help here ;)
I've been trying to remove the heatsink from my Maximum Formula non-SE now with coldspray, but it doesn't come off? I did spray it about 10 seconds and then wiggled it, but nothing happens?

I used the cold spray method....but sprayed much longer than 10 seconds. In fact, I tried first with a short shot of spray...something like 10 sec., and had remarkably little success.

I then sprayed the block, on top and both exposed sides (the sides w/o the heatpipe entering/leaving the block) for maybe 30 sec., or even longer. I know the entire block ended up covered in frost as was the surrounding part of the motherboard.

I didn't use the motherboard proper to lever upon, though. Instead, I put a very small piece of wood along side the block and that's what I pried upward against. The entire NB section then just popped off lickety split. Only took a second or two of easy prying.....and I was quite worried about the IHS coming off as I had run the board on aircooling for well over a month prior to doing this.

Other things I'd consider to use as the "fulcrum" block.....a Molex fan connector, a thumb drive.....anything about a 1/4" tall or so to get the screwdriver off the motherboard and give you more leverage, so you can pop it off without having to twist the screwdriver, esp. against the motherboard itself. The slight increase in height will give you a lot of leverage, making it very easy to get the HS off......and it removes any chance of damaging any traces on the motherboard.

Here's what the bottom of the HS looked like after I got it off:

http://jamayer.org/pics/hs1.jpg

I just think you didn't freeze it nearly long enough......and I wouldn't worry about the frost that happens on the board.....your board will stand cold much easier than heat....just make sure you let the frost you create dissipate before you hook it back up to electricity. There are even companies that'll cryogenically freeze your electronics....supposed to align the molecular structure in all the metal to give better performance. Heard they do a lot of car parts for racing, too. (Pistons, rings, valves, metal brake rotors, etc. All for enhanced performance.)
03-05-2008, 02:44 PM
neo_rtr

Prime95 1 hour test

Prime95 1 hour test
This test was performed with the following settings
QX6700, 3.6Ghz
CPU Voltage : 1,48125V
CPU PLL Voltage : auto
North Bridge Voltage : 1,57V (1,63V in everest)
DRAM Voltage : 2,18V (2,32V in everest)
FSB Termination Voltage : 1,54v
South Bridge Voltage : 1,075v
Loadline Calibration : enable
Ambient 18.1c NB 28c

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/3559/prime95zf7.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-03-05

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9...e181c1hjy6.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-03-05
03-05-2008, 05:25 PM
Talonman

Thanks for the post! :)

Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU ------------- Ambient ---- NB Block
neo rtr ------------ 1.63v ------ 28°C -- 1HR Prime95 --- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 18.1°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS

Did you still want this entry too buddy?
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 19.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
It's up to you.. You can have as many as you like, I just thought this might be a replacement entry. ;)
03-06-2008, 01:41 AM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonman

Thanks for the post! :)
Did you still want this entry too buddy?
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 19.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
It's up to you.. You can have as many as you like, I just thought this might be a replacement entry. ;)

Yes pls as this one was with Everest
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ----Everest------- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 19.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
03-06-2008, 02:15 AM
Talonman

OK, Both entries will be kept! ;)
03-06-2008, 04:42 PM
Creek Tha Gray

1 Attachment(s)

ok so updated pic with all ek waterblocks

EK-Supreme - Plexi
EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38) - Plexi
EK-NB S-MAX - Plexi
EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Plexi
03-06-2008, 05:20 PM
Talonman

Sweet!!

Looks like OP material to me .... :up:

I can't get that picture by quoteing... ??
Good Trick! ;)
Ahhhh it's an attached image...
03-06-2008, 05:27 PM
Creek Tha Gray

Tolonman here is the img ready to quote

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...08017small.jpg
03-06-2008, 06:04 PM
disruptfam

nice ek set !!!!

pic would look better in natural light without the flash.. :)
03-06-2008, 06:20 PM
Creek Tha Gray

Quote:

Originally Posted by disruptfam

nice ek set !!!!

pic would look better in natural light without the flash.. :)

will be updated soon with a canon rebel xt
03-06-2008, 11:19 PM
neo_rtr

got the link below from te cebit 2008 thread!! it was posted by l1m1t.nl

Asus Maximus II Extreme: Intel P45 + ICH10R, DDR3-1600, ATi CrossfireX Support, Asus EPU, Asus Fusion Block WC.

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/screen...Extreme_00.jpg

More pictures at PCGamesHardware.de
03-07-2008, 02:36 AM
Talonman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Creek Tha Gray

Tolonman here is the img ready to quote

Thanks buddy! :up:
03-07-2008, 05:12 AM
Pete

Seams the NB/SB4 is needed for dual cards. Look a much better fit. I'll order one now i think!
03-07-2008, 07:56 AM
zlojack

Sweet setup Creek!

Makes me wonder if I should get one of those for my SB... I was just going to go passive air on the SB with the low profile Enzotech for my Crossfire. The SB doesn't really get that hot on this board...
03-07-2008, 08:14 AM
Creek Tha Gray

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlojack

Sweet setup Creek!

Makes me wonder if I should get one of those for my SB... I was just going to go passive air on the SB with the low profile Enzotech for my Crossfire. The SB doesn't really get that hot on this board...

with the setup with all fans at slow my temps are

cpu 17C idle this is at 2.6ghz
NB 29C
SB 31C
03-07-2008, 10:58 AM
ShArKo

Sorry i got a question...........Does the MCW30 water block fix fine on the maximus formula??? maybe I buy 2 of then, but I need to know if this water blocks its going to be fine fix???

Thanks for the answers and sorry for my ugly English....
03-07-2008, 03:27 PM
Talonman

This is what I know about that:
North Bridge - EK-NB S-MAX, EK-NB S-MAX Acetal, DangerDen Maze4, Sixdesign sold by MIPS,
Swiftech MCW30 (Caution: Some have problems with the MCW30 being a tad too small.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aldy402

I just switched out the fusion block for a mcw30.
I can confirm that it fits, but it takes a little manipulating...
It only works with the hard mount.

South Bridge - EK-NB/SB ASUS 3, EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal, EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal, Sixdesign sold by MIPS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nowakjan2000

I used the MCW30 on the SB chip and it fitted well. The only thing I had to do was to reposition (change the direction) the metal holders on both sides of the block. Otherwise it wouldn't fit.

There is a picture too, of a MCW30 mounted in the origional post in this thread. ;)
03-08-2008, 04:06 AM
Exaby1e

Quote:

Originally Posted by C'DaleRider

I used the cold spray method....but sprayed much longer than 10 seconds. In fact, I tried first with a short shot of spray...something like 10 sec., and had remarkably little success.

I then sprayed the block, on top and both exposed sides (the sides w/o the heatpipe entering/leaving the block) for maybe 30 sec., or even longer. I know the entire block ended up covered in frost as was the surrounding part of the motherboard.

I didn't use the motherboard proper to lever upon, though. Instead, I put a very small piece of wood along side the block and that's what I pried upward against. The entire NB section then just popped off lickety split. Only took a second or two of easy prying.....and I was quite worried about the IHS coming off as I had run the board on aircooling for well over a month prior to doing this.

Other things I'd consider to use as the "fulcrum" block.....a Molex fan connector, a thumb drive.....anything about a 1/4" tall or so to get the screwdriver off the motherboard and give you more leverage, so you can pop it off without having to twist the screwdriver, esp. against the motherboard itself. The slight increase in height will give you a lot of leverage, making it very easy to get the HS off......and it removes any chance of damaging any traces on the motherboard.

I just think you didn't freeze it nearly long enough......and I wouldn't worry about the frost that happens on the board.....your board will stand cold much easier than heat....just make sure you let the frost you create dissipate before you hook it back up to electricity. There are even companies that'll cryogenically freeze your electronics....supposed to align the molecular structure in all the metal to give better performance. Heard they do a lot of car parts for racing, too. (Pistons, rings, valves, metal brake rotors, etc. All for enhanced performance.)

Thanks, I did it! :P
I used a piece of wood and sprayed until th whole HS (over the NB) was frosty as you said. Then i started to work with the screwdriver and I heard the "crack"-sound and the whole HS popped of :P
03-08-2008, 04:37 AM
Exaby1e

I noticed that the orginal mosfet-pads didn't come loose, so what is best, use them or replace them with the pads I got from EK? The blocks I will use for mosfets are EK-mosfet Asus 3a.
03-08-2008, 08:01 AM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exaby1e

I noticed that the orginal mosfet-pads didn't come loose, so what is best, use them or replace them with the pads I got from EK? The blocks I will use for mosfets are EK-mosfet Asus 3a.

I dont think they are glued to the mosfets. hmm.. on mine they come off no problem.
Anyway. i got the same pads from EK, (not used them though) so i think yes no problem to use the EK ones..
03-08-2008, 11:01 AM
Talonman

Is tahat Avatar really you neo? :)

Every time I see it, all I can think of is James Bond 007. :p:
03-08-2008, 12:30 PM
Anemone

Max 2 uses P45? Seems strange to not use X48...

But the ICH10 is a nice +
03-08-2008, 02:01 PM
Talonman

It does look like a runner! It will be fun to read a review on that mobo just to see how it does.

I am happy with my Maximus SE, and glad it runs my Q6600 a nice cool 3.8GHz for me.
03-08-2008, 02:32 PM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonman

Is tahat Avatar really you neo? :)

Every time I see it, all I can think of is James Bond 007. :p:

thank you for the compliment..yes it is .
i might have to change my avatar !! to something not so personal
03-08-2008, 02:58 PM
Talonman

Not at all....

It's a positive thing to be smart in computers, and a lady's man!!

Mabey you will attract some new female members here. :)

Keep up the fine job!
03-09-2008, 12:08 AM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonman

Not at all....

It's a positive thing to be smart in computers, and a lady's man!!

Mabey you will attract some new female members here. :)

Keep up the fine job!

lets hope my wife appreciates this forum as well

;) :)
03-09-2008, 02:01 AM
Talonman

LOL... I let my wife read my posts if she want's, and make sure to keep clear of any trouble! (If you know what I mean..) :up:
03-10-2008, 07:54 AM
Creek Tha Gray

4 Attachment(s)

pic updates still waiting on my new video card though

and if you go wT4 is the light its 60 UV led's on one side of case and 60 on the other side.
03-10-2008, 11:40 AM
Waymon3X6

Sorry to change the subject guys, but I have a major problem.

The barbs that I had cooling the NB on the SE, one of them cracked around the neck (small crack) and I noticed it almost right away, after there was a small puddle on my 3870. (I think it will be ok though)

Anyways, I cannot find a replacement 1/2" white barb anywhere!

Do you guys know where to find one? Could I PM one of you who might have an extra? I am using 1/2" tubing.
03-11-2008, 01:28 AM
Talonman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Creek Tha Gray

pic updates still waiting on my new video card though

and if you go wT4 is the light its 60 UV led's on one side of case and 60 on the other side.

Looking good Creek!! :up:

I think she should be plenty bright now to show off the innards!
03-11-2008, 08:59 PM
CaseMD

Very nice cube.

I´ve one question:
I want to use the ek-mosfets. Do i have to use the backplates or can i use them without them? Can you give me some info for pro´s and contra´s?

Thanx
03-12-2008, 11:56 AM
deepcover

I just wanted to further confirm that removal of the NB heatsink on the Maximus Formula (non-SE) was a snap with the circuit freeze spray as was stated earlier. I sprayed it on the SB and the heatsink came loose on its own. The NB I sprayed for about 3-4 minutes and pryed it gently with a screwdriver and it popped right off. I've been using my MB for a month prior to removal of the NB heatsink. The freeze spray costs 8 bucks at Radio Shack or Fry's electronics. I also reused the backplate of the NB by removing the bolts with a plyer and widening the holes a little with a drill. I used the SB heatsink as a backplate for the SB. I used the rubber washers that were allready on the SB and extra plastic washers to ensure that there was enough space between the backplate, the PCB, and the motherboard tray. The cement was removed easily from the NB and SB with acetone as someone stated earlier.

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...UJYXx2Q/01.jpg

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...fldEj1A/02.jpg

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...2OsiJwQ/03.jpg

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...0eLLdBw/04.jpg

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...t5rT8jA/05.jpg

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...0a4VpKQ/06.jpg

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...WTyGMsA/07.jpg

http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...TJiGf1A/08.jpg
03-12-2008, 12:10 PM
Talonman

Thanks for the post, and pictures deepcover... :clap:

OP Updated! :cool:
03-12-2008, 02:18 PM
Waymon3X6

Is anyone going to answer my question??
03-12-2008, 08:10 PM
Creek Tha Gray

Quote:

Originally Posted by Waymon3X6

Sorry to change the subject guys, but I have a major problem.

The barbs that I had cooling the NB on the SE, one of them cracked around the neck (small crack) and I noticed it almost right away, after there was a small puddle on my 3870. (I think it will be ok though)

Anyways, I cannot find a replacement 1/2" white barb anywhere!

Do you guys know where to find one? Could I PM one of you who might have an extra? I am using 1/2" tubing.

contact asus to get one should be easy.
03-12-2008, 08:12 PM
Creek Tha Gray

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaseMD

Very nice cube.

I´ve one question:
I want to use the ek-mosfets. Do i have to use the backplates or can i use them without them? Can you give me some info for pro´s and contra´s?

Thanx

at first i had no backplates and it did work but the mobo has a little bend in it so I now have backplates and say they are the way to go.
03-13-2008, 02:24 PM
WFO

Quote:

Originally Posted by Creek Tha Gray

at first i had no backplates and it did work but the mobo has a little bend in it so I now have backplates and say they are the way to go.

Did you make the backplates yourself?

Also, anyone that watercooled cpu, NB,SB and mosfets, would you post your OC results here? I just did CPU/NB and was wondering whether I should have gone further with my water-cooling. My rig will be coming apart soon for a 45nm chip. Sooo if it's worth the effort, I need to plan for it now. :yepp:
03-14-2008, 10:06 PM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by deepcover

I just wanted to further confirm that removal of the NB heatsink on the Maximus Formula (non-SE) was a snap with the circuit freeze spray as was stated earlier.

Nice one mate.. :up:
hope you dont mind iam updating the removal page with your post as well
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&postcount=22
03-15-2008, 12:29 AM
crackbag

2 Attachment(s)

a little info

i just upgraded to the maximus formula and i replaced the mosfet blocks with the thermalright hr-90u's on both sets, they dont get warm at all, the bottom one dose alittle but the side one is cool, they seam tight on there and my computer is still running. are there temp sensors that show the temps like in everest? if so wich ones are they? i just wanna see if anyones are the same, i over hauled my whole comp and will post my pics and test tomarrow. anyways thx in advance for any replies!
03-15-2008, 04:25 AM
zlojack

Nice stuff crackbag!

I'm putting those on too...
03-17-2008, 04:32 AM
Xilikon

After all, I might join the club myself since my P5K-E is crapping out and I'm awaiting to see if the store will accept a refund for the RMA (the store stopped doing exchanges recently so I'm in unchartered waters). If yes, I might jump on a Maximus Formula or even a Rampage Formula if timing is right (I heard it will be released this friday).
03-18-2008, 06:55 AM
Celoth

Just ordered a set of EK blocks for my future Rampage. I will be using the swifttech F-fittings to have a parallel 6mm ID loop for the mosfets, SB, RAM and HD waterblocks and a aquacomputer 5.6mm flowsensor. The main 1/2" loop will have the CPU and GPU water blocks.

This leaves me with the NB block. Can I put it in the low-flow loop and still get good results, or would I better off sacrificing a bit of the CPU/GPU flow and add it to that loop instead? I am guessing it's probably best to add it to the main 1/2" loop.

The whole thing will be cooled by two Thermochill PA160s with Noctua NF-P12 fans. Pump is an Aquastream XT Ultra with up to 4.2m (13.78') head.
03-19-2008, 01:51 PM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celoth

The whole thing will be cooled by two Thermochill PA160s with Noctua NF-P12 fans. Pump is an Aquastream XT Ultra with up to 4.2m (13.78') head.

I think its not enough for all the things you want to cool down.
maybe iam misstaking..
03-19-2008, 06:55 PM
dogin

Fianally got the correct NB block so ready to go (much delayed-Worse than Talonman). Used the cold removal method for the fusion. Hit it about 15 sec and nothing would not budge. Hit it again until fusion frosty and heard a snap and it was loose. Found the thermal glue they used went up the side of both heatsinks as they used too much and really sealed it down. The down side to freezing is a lot of frozen thermal glue chips to clean up. Acetone took the remaining glue off the chips easily. On my way if mobo survived the removal process.

Noticed some connectors surrounding one of the SB heatsink attachment holes so using an off set mount heatsink could short something. Contacted supplier of low pro fan/heatsink and they agreed that thermal glue may be the best attachment method for the SB. Got the original NB backplate modded to use as mentioned earlier in this thread. Will post back when up and running.

A lot of little things to do. Had to cut the reservoir mount I made to clear the new 28cm vid cards. My 8800GTX was about 26cm and I only had about another 1 1/2Cm clearance on the mount behind it (the reservoir itself is over far enough on the mount to clear.) Hope they do not make longer vid cards!!!
03-20-2008, 04:07 AM
Xilikon

Can someone give the measures of the NB backplate, especially the 4 holes ? I would rather keep the backplate stock for warranty purposes and use some of my scrap aluminium panels from my case modding project (some are 2-3mm thick, great for a backplate) to make a custom one.

Would using electrical tape (2 layers all over the surface) be sufficient for insulating ?
03-20-2008, 05:17 AM
dogin

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xilikon

Can someone give the measures of the NB backplate, especially the 4 holes ? I would rather keep the backplate stock for warranty purposes and use some of my scrap aluminium panels from my case modding project (some are 2-3mm thick, great for a backplate) to make a custom one.

Would using electrical tape (2 layers all over the surface) be sufficient for insulating ?

I would just use the water block and trace a pattern and mark the holes (ie have seen on these forums where measurements did not translate to a correct part). The stock one comes with 4 rubber rings that you could use on your backplate where the bolts go through that spaces it away from the board (although the stock one still has an insulating layer on the mount side). I would not use electrical tape in high heat areas????? Chilled PC or some other outlet could probably provide you with something like they use on their mosfet back plates (ie my mofset back plate came with a little extra so using it under the SB Heat sink pin attachment points as decided pin attachment better than thermal glue alone)???
03-20-2008, 05:25 AM
Xilikon

I know what you are talking about the insulating layer. The problem is to find out where I can order it in Canada or USA ? That's the problem ;)

About using the stock block to outline the backplate, that's a good idea and it's better than taking measures and risk being wrong.
03-20-2008, 06:13 AM
zlojack

Finally got to work on my Maximus this week.

I put the board in the freezer overnight (couldn't find freeze spray anywhere!) on Monday and Tuesday morning the heatsink array popped off like nothing. Cold is definitely the way to go for this.

I mounted the Fuzion with the Pro Mount kit but instead of the Pro Mount backplate, I used the backplate from my Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme since it has posts that go through the holes in the mobo, making it easier to reseat the block without having to dismount the motherboard in the future.

The EK NB went on no problem once I drilled out the backplate (bye bye warranty, I hope my board works when I power back on!!!)

The SB was a bit of an issue as the Enzotech block I bought had to be modded slightly and still went on crooked... I had to drill an extra hole closer to the body of the block to get the pushpin to go all the way through....it's not pretty, but it's on there nicely, and can be removed should I decide to do so in the future.

Thermalright HR-09's went on the mosfets and now tonight I should be able to put the loop together!

Waiting to be violated
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02012.jpg

A night in the freezer and *POP*
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02013.jpg

Fuzion with Pro Mount and TRUE backplate (check the quad nozzle!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02023.jpg

CPU & NB partners in crime!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02022.jpg

Here's my crooked SB cooler...still makes full contact!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02021.jpg

All together
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02018.jpg

Gratuitous pr0n section:

Hate to see her go :p:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02007.jpg

EK work of art!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02009.jpg

Partners in crime!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02025.jpg
03-21-2008, 10:38 AM
neo_rtr

Looks great. Nice work!
:up:
03-21-2008, 12:04 PM
IN7OX

very nice thinking of going the same way parts ordered
03-21-2008, 04:32 PM
zlojack

Thanks guys... here's the current status (let me know if too many pics or OT and I'll get rid of some)

The filling and bleeding went amazingly fast! I guess due to the reservoirs and the strong pumps, but I moved it all around to get any bubbles out of the blocks and there don't seem to be any more. I've topped up the reservoirs and now we're leak testing.

Tomorrow I'll do some cable management stuff and hopefully be ready to go in the evening!

Closeup of the Microes...love that velcro!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02036.jpg

Drivebay res
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02038.jpg

Interior
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02040.jpg

All done
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02043.jpg

Ready for filling
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02041.jpg

I need to figure out what to do with the cathode controller and it's white cables :censored:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02042.jpg

Leak testing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02044.jpg
03-21-2008, 05:10 PM
Fitseries3

why didn't you link the 2 blocks back 2 back?

looks pretty good. your the first i've seen with the x2 blocks.
03-21-2008, 06:09 PM
zlojack

Quote:

Originally Posted by fitseries3

why didn't you link the 2 blocks back 2 back?

looks pretty good. your the first i've seen with the x2 blocks.

Thanks

Not clear what you mean by the X2 blocks back to back?
If I put them with one going down and one going up, they hit each other. This was the only way I could figure out to get it to fit, and even then it was a PITA.
03-21-2008, 06:12 PM
Fitseries3

like mine in the pic......

all you need is 2 EK stubbies....
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekhifig1th1o1.html

http://forums.techpowerup.com/attach...0&d=1203309602
03-21-2008, 06:21 PM
zlojack

Thanks dude!

I think I'm going to try that.

Will be a PITA to disarm the loop, but I suppose I could clamp the tubes.
03-21-2008, 08:15 PM
dogin

I am only using one 8800GTX so won't have the same issue, but the stubbies would come in handy when I go that route. Here is my mobo getting ready for a leak test. Got my fingers crossed.
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...h_IM000214.jpg[/IMG]
03-21-2008, 09:15 PM
zlojack

Nice dogin!

I see you've pretty much got the same stuff on there as I do.

How'd you find getting the Enzotech on the SB? (I think that's the Enzotech)

What kind of fan is that on the SB?
03-21-2008, 11:40 PM
Grimtas

I used EK shorties for my x2 bridge. I need to take a closer pic though.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...i/SSC_0842.jpg
03-22-2008, 05:14 AM
dogin

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlojack

Nice dogin!

I see you've pretty much got the same stuff on there as I do.

How'd you find getting the Enzotech on the SB? (I think that's the Enzotech)

What kind of fan is that on the SB?

Yeah the EnZotech SLF-1 from chilled PC and it comes with the low profile fan. Cut off the outer end of the attachment points and then routed out the inner attachment hole so they lined up with the mobo holes. Squeezed the two ends closer together that were left after cutting the outer portion off. Also used thermal glue even though it looked like the pins were doing there job. Looks like I got a tight fit with EnZotech. Flushing the rad now so hopefully get the leak testing done this weekend (just need some free time).

Really like your set-up zlojack. Hope mine goes uneventful like yours with no leaks and the mobo still works???
03-22-2008, 06:43 AM
zlojack

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogin

Yeah the EnZotech SLF-1 from chilled PC and it comes with the low profile fan. Cut off the outer end of the attachment points and then routed out the inner attachment hole so they lined up with the mobo holes. Squeezed the two ends closer together that were left after cutting the outer portion off. Also used thermal glue even though it looked like the pins were doing there job. Looks like I got a tight fit with EnZotech. Flushing the rad now so hopefully get the leak testing done this weekend (just need some free time).

Really like your set-up zlojack. Hope mine goes uneventful like yours with no leaks and the mobo still works???

Well so far I have one really small leak (like about 1 drop every 2 hours) from the interior rad's intake. I've tried to tighten the fitting and now I'm checking again.

I haven't powered back on yet...still leak testing. I didn't get a fan with my Enzotech, but I'm not sure if the SB needs it. My case also has a huge 25 CM side fan which will blow over the whole mobo (TT Armor).
03-22-2008, 06:53 AM
dogin

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlojack

Well so far I have one really small leak (like about 1 drop every 2 hours) from the interior rad's intake. I've tried to tighten the fitting and now I'm checking again.

I haven't powered back on yet...still leak testing. I didn't get a fan with my Enzotech, but I'm not sure if the SB needs it. My case also has a huge 25 CM side fan which will blow over the whole mobo (TT Armor).

Hope that fixes the leak. Yeah really don't need the SB fan. I didn't use my case 300mm cross flow fan as used the cross flow fan outer cover modded to mount my reservoir and hide fan power tree for the rad, hide mobo wiring etc. Going to use two 120mm fans on the case front to help the cool the rad in air that exhausts out the case top.
03-22-2008, 06:24 PM
zlojack

Success! It's on and working...but... the CPU temps seem unreasonably high.

I'm getting 58 58 52 53 Prime95 Small FFTs across the 4 cores at 3.6 GHz with 1.26v on my QX9650.

I know the IHS is uneven on this CPU because I checked it when it was dismounted, but I was getting the same temps on AIR! I figured I'd get better temps on water under load. I'm a bit leery about lapping a $1K CPU....

Also, the SB is running hot...44 Degrees. I might need to put one of my 80mm fans blowing on it or else look at a block for it since I'm going to have to re-plumb the GPU loop to accomodate the side panel fan...

Anyway...anyone have any ideas on the CPU? Could it be that the TRUE backplate I used doesn't allow enough pressure?

I'm pretty sure I'm getting good flow and I've got 4 Scythe S-Flex 1200 RPM fans on that rad in push/pull....

Ambient is probably around 20-21 C.

Any ideas guys?

Here's a shot of the rig:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02047.jpg
03-23-2008, 04:57 AM
neo_rtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlojack

the CPU temps seem unreasonably high.
Ambient is probably around 20-21 C.

If not misstaken you have a dualrad with CPU/NB and 2x Crossfire.
The VGA generate lot more heat that you think.
With 20-21C ambient you should get about 10C + idle. about!! 30 on your cpu.

The "on load" i think is about correct at 55C

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlojack

I'm getting 58 58 52 53

It seems to me that your CPU is unleved. If it had been equal pressure from the cpu mount it should show something like 58 58 57 57 or similar. Seems one side is pressing more than the other-

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlojack
03-23-2008, 03:30 PM
wreckwriter

Great thread guys! I got a ton of info and ideas here.

My EK-NB S-MAX block should be in tomorrow. Haven't seen any instructions online anywhere so not sure what to expect as far as mounting it. I've read here about modifying the stock backplate but I'd rather not do that since the board hasn't been proven non-DOA yet. What's the stock mounting method for the EK-NB S-MAX?

Thanks!
03-24-2008, 03:10 AM
dogin

Quote:

Originally Posted by wreckwriter

Great thread guys! I got a ton of info and ideas here.

My EK-NB S-MAX block should be in tomorrow. Haven't seen any instructions online anywhere so not sure what to expect as far as mounting it. I've read here about modifying the stock backplate but I'd rather not do that since the board hasn't been proven non-DOA yet. What's the stock mounting method for the EK-NB S-MAX?

Thanks!

You need a backplate so either have to mod the existing one or buy a custom from some one like Chilled PC. Mine has been leak testing for 12 hrs now and so far so good.
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...h_IM000218.jpg[/IMG]
03-24-2008, 03:54 AM
wreckwriter

So the EK comes with no mounting system? Nothing like value for your money. Chilled PC is not a viable option, they are UK I believe. Guess I'll come up with something. Thanks for the reply.
03-24-2008, 04:55 AM
Xilikon

I got a idea... It seems the original backplate have 4 threaded posts where you screw the heatpipe assembly. I'm wondering what is the threading so I could buy 4 bolts and reuse the same backplate ?
03-24-2008, 05:47 AM
wreckwriter

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xilikon

I got a idea... It seems the original backplate have 4 threaded posts where you screw the heatpipe assembly. I'm wondering what is the threading so I could buy 4 bolts and reuse the same backplate ?

I had the same idea. Screws are very small, #4 or smaller (might be metric). I have no screw gauge small enough to get exact size, just have to compare I guess. Later today I will dig through my junk box and see if I have anything that will fit (either backplate or screws).
03-24-2008, 05:50 AM
Xilikon

I think it's metric but since I don't see it (It's currently running in my box with stock cooling till I receive the new EK S-Max waterblock this week).
03-24-2008, 06:05 AM
wreckwriter

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xilikon

I think it's metric but since I don't see it (It's currently running in my box with stock cooling till I receive the new EK S-Max waterblock this week).

Agreed, metric is most likely. Might even be able to use the same screws with washers but they pretty short so I'm thinking not. Someone here must have tried and I don't see it mentioned as an option so....

I'm thinking an old P4 backplate might be close. I probably even have stuff from the Celeron 300 days in my box.
03-24-2008, 09:25 AM
wreckwriter

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddy_EK

Hi!

I must admit that was our fault, because we did not double check the measures that I got from User on this forum, I think It was Pete.

What I can recommend is to drill the holes holes, so it would fit. (about 1mm each hole. We will have new tops made in one week, then we will send every end customer that has already bought the block new top with new o-ring, so he can replace it.

Sorry Guys, well fix that ASAP :(

This post is very worrisome. Were these blocks actually shipped to resellers with the incorrect tops? I ordered mine from Jab-Tech.com. Any way to know in advance if it will fit or not?

Edit- Answer from Jab-tech- > EK sent us all new tops for these blocks, you were also shipped the new top and
> a new O-Ring.

Big relief!
03-24-2008, 09:29 AM
BigGaroupa

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlojack

Success! It's on and working...but... the CPU temps seem unreasonably high.

I'm getting 58 58 52 53 Prime95 Small FFTs across the 4 cores at 3.6 GHz with 1.26v on my QX9650.

I know the IHS is uneven on this CPU because I checked it when it was dismounted, but I was getting the same temps on AIR! I figured I'd get better temps on water under load. I'm a bit leery about lapping a $1K CPU....

Also, the SB is running hot...44 Degrees. I might need to put one of my 80mm fans blowing on it or else look at a block for it since I'm going to have to re-plumb the GPU loop to accomodate the side panel fan...

Anyway...anyone have any ideas on the CPU? Could it be that the TRUE backplate I used doesn't allow enough pressure?

I'm pretty sure I'm getting good flow and I've got 4 Scythe S-Flex 1200 RPM fans on that rad in push/pull....

Ambient is probably around 20-21 C.

Any ideas guys?

Here's a shot of the rig:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC02047.jpg

Hay how did you mount your Swiftech micro-res?

I have the same case and same res, mine is just sitting on top of my CD-ROM at the moment.
03-24-2008, 09:42 AM
zlojack

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigGaroupa

Hay how did you mount your Swiftech micro-res?

I have the same case and same res, mine is just sitting on top of my CD-ROM at the moment.

Stuck the velcro on the side and then stuck it to the inside of the HD bay area.:D
03-25-2008, 07:53 AM
dogin

Up and running

Still to soon to give all the results, but it Idles (CPU,GPU and NB) right around 30C. Pushed it a little before I had to leave for the day and very happy so far. The NB did not go over 33C on the initial testing (a lot more to do when I have time, but liquid cooling is the only way to go with this board. Will post back later with full results.

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