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Yeah, after running the MCP35X on PWM, I'm completely sold on throttling pump speed dynamically...definitely the way to go for silence and it's good for heat and saving pump life as well.
FYI, I found this on the Sanyo controller:
http://semicon.sanyo.com/en/search/p...11683V&clcd=34
I'm testing the premodded Sany DDC1 now and going to try to solder up one of Bmaverick's pumps he sent over next.
Not sure which DDCs this one is compatible with, but obviously the DDC1s work.
Sanyo curve on a DDC-1, Laing original controller vs with the DIYINHK Sanyo board.
Small bump in performance which is nice to see considering it's also an improvement in noise. Power consumption does go up a couple of watts, but nothing significant. RPM also seems to read like any normal fan.
So no huge gains on this one, but a good quiet DDC3.1 like experience with a touch higher performance. It will also dial down to 7V if ultra silence is needed.
Even 1:1 performance would be good, as after all, reviving of otherwise unusable dead pump.
But nevertheless, this forum is called XtremeSystems not for nothing, so "overclocked" Toshiba's DDC"4.5" (or mini-iwaki) rises greater interest of mine :)
Just revived my old DDC with red rotor... Well, not only I can reuse it, but I got a better pump for the main loop.
I'm amazed! :D I'm controlling it with a Lamptron FC5.
Just a question: if I hook up a poti, will I have still 12V @ full?
PS: in our country we started talking about DIYINHK here, just as a repair... now it's modding excitement!
I wonder if you plotted a graph with the Toshiba controller versus something like the MCP35x comparing noise output at similar/identical performance settings (whatever voltage that may be for each pump to perform the same)?
That would definitely interest me :)
Yes, the poti will not degrade full speed performance like most fan controllers do. When VSP hits around 4.5V it's 100%...no loss by adding the controller:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by smanet
Yeah, I'm going to have to make another pump noise round, it's too hard to tell with the informal tests. The Sanyo is better than the DDC-1, but I'm not sure about the DDC 3.1 or MCP35X, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by chorner
FYI, I published my blog on the Sanyo along with an installation video of the process.
I worked through installing both the Sanyo and the Toshiba into DDC-1 pumps thanks to Bmaverick and both operate just fine.
I did notice that the DDC-1 is not nearly as power hungry with the Toshiba as the DDC3 series pump tested, so I'll have to run some more tests on the Toshiba to see what DDC-1 performance. The different windings between DDC1 and DDC3 makes the controllers behave differently.
SANYO blog:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/...placement-mod/
INSTALL video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E5kP...layer_embedded
martin - i watched your video and noticed that the coil assembly came off while you were desoldering the wires. I'm thinking that the 10W pump has more winds on each of the 6 coils compared to the newer DDC3.1's giving the DDC3.1 higher RPM output and amp draw.
My question is, if anyone has tried re-winding the 10W pumps with lesser winds to bring it up to DDC3.1 specs and using the Toshiba pcb. If i had spare pumps to try out, i would do this. Count the number of winds/coil of the 18W version and wind the exact amount on the 10W version. :)
I've notice that your are installing an heatsink on the SANYO PCB.
Is it usefull for the Toshiba too? It came just as showed before, w/o heatsink I mean. I'm using my revived pump @10V, it's a bit hot.
http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/...011053_mod.jpg
The pump on the left is the dead one. It has this coil :
http://www.pctunerup.com/up//img/jpeg.gif
This is the back of the revived one (sorry for no preview and bad soldering):
http://www.pctunerup.com/up//img/jpeg.gif
Swapping the red rotor with the blue one will make the pump operate better? I still have some probs understanding the color revisions of Laing impellers...
Yeah, I didn't intend for the coil to come out that way, it actually made more work for me in gluing it back in there, but it was easier to remove the coil wires that way without tweezers.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by glide 1
I'm not an electrical guy, but I assumed the winding difference was not so much the number of windings, but the orientation of the windings? The DDC3 series pumps have the windings wrapped parallel to the perimeter. Completely different magnets as well. You could always try it, but I don't have any deceased pumps left now...they have all been brought back to life..:)
Not the smaller PCB version, it looks like it's made specifically for the Sanyo IC. I don't think there is room for it inside the case either on a DDC3 pump, there is just enough room for the toshiba PCB. The Sanyo also has the IC on the bottom where the Toshiba sits on top.Quote:
Originally Posted by smanet
The Toshiba on the DDC-1 could use one of the magnets as a heat sink though, it sits about 3/4 directly below one of the large magnet flat spots, so I did just that when I did the DDC1/Toshiba. I scraped away the paint on the magnet and put some heavy/thick TIM on the IC. The DDC-1 also doesn't draw as much current on the Toshiba, so heat should be lower anyhow.
I would simply look into heatsinks for the casing base if you want to cool a DDC3.
He does have that decoupler/heatsink that extends beyond the base. That would help spread the heat:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DDC-pump-bottom-...ht_1207wt_1005
Or you could make your own, or Koolance, or Swiftech is coming out with one....lots of options.:up:
Not sure on the impellers if it makes any difference or not. I know the current tops are designed for the smaller inlet opening on the blue impellers, so but I'm not sure what is different internally if anything.
I kind of like the Toshiba on the DDC1 pump as it is. It's quite a bit smoother in sound than the DDC3 pump and I suspect it's more powerful than the Sanyo on a DDC-1. The noise was a bit too much on the DDC3 for my taste, but it's not bad on the DDC-1. More tinkering and testing is in order on the Toshiba/DDC-1..:D
Magnetic field is a function of the number of turns, so it does matter (biot savard law if you wanna buff up on the specifics)Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Thanks Martin, I'll look for an heatsink mounted on the base. When I put the DIYINHK, I just scratched some glue from the coil base (but there weren't so much) and put the PCB on it, dunno if Toshiba chip is touching the metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
I didn't know that tops were designed for the smaller hole in the blue impeller; I'm just looking now for the two original tops (one from a MCP355 and one from the older 18W DDC3.2, you can see both in some pictures I posted some posts ago) and are exactly the same. :shrug: I should send you the red impeller to get some of your precious tests. :D
The strange fact is that my 18W pump, the famous red impeller one I revived, has a "flat" coil as DDC1, differently from the "flower-like" coil in DDC3.
I think Laing has changed coil/rotor combos during the marketing period of DDC3.2 / 1Plust-T.... Maybe I had a DDC1 coil with DDC3.2 motor driver... :shrug:
UPDATE: I found this:
http://www.cooling-masters.com/image...0706/laing.png
So this paces my doubts. I revived a DDC2 not a DDC1 and nor a DDC3.2 ..that's why I have DDC1 coil and still 18W.
Yeah, I'm kicking myself for throwing away my old DDC2 that I ran 30V through (My test power supply when bonkers and fried that one). It would have been a perfect candidate for one of these boards..:)
I can try impeller swaps, but I've only got a DDC1 (Black), DDC3.2(Blue), and DDC3.25(Blue/Orange) on hand.
While the new tops are narrowed up on the opening to better serve the DDC3 series pumps, they still work well in DDC1/2 pumps as well. Perhaps not perfect, but still a very good gain over stock.
I also have a pair of PTS DDCT-01 acetal tops that were designed for the old larger impeller inlets. They will now have a happy home on some modded DDC-1s...:D
FYI,
Finished up a couple more voltage runs on the Sanyo. 8V is really quiet as you might expect. The controller scales well with voltage control and since it doesn't take a ton of power you could probably do this with most fan controllers.
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...comparison.png
Added a noise comparison video to a DDC-1 and DDC 3.2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCMiFDsNRHY
Cheers!
Martin
The DDC-1 w/o the DIYINHK board sounds awful.
Funny thing is everyone complained when Laing went from the DDC2 to DDC3.2s because of power loss. While I was still pretty much a D5 user at the time, I don't remember too many people noting an improvement in noise.
It's pretty clear to me there was a really good improvement in noise from the DDC1/2 series to DDC3 series.
Fortunately the Sanyo PCB brings the otherwise gritty/buzzy DDC1/2 series to nearly DDC3 smoothness. Subjectively I think there is actually a little bit less high pitched whine, while a bit more buzz. BUT...that's a bit apples/oranges with the 18w vs 12w comparison. I don't have any DDC3.1s so I just threw it in there for a secondary comparison.
Martin why is there never any commentary from you in your vids? Your vids are great but they'd be better with a bit of narration.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Martin: imho most actual voltage step is not 8V but 7V, as it can be directly got from molex by simple wire swap.
That's my style..I just like letting the data do the talking and let the user make their own judgments. Narration during noise testing doesn't work either...screws up the meter with its slow response time, so it would have to be mixed in post processing. Not sure what to say...Listen carefullly?..:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Sideroxylon
should be very careful, the sanyo board damage immediately if the + - power is reverse connected. and some motherboard cannot read the rpm signal if the low level is 5V not the normal 0VQuote:
Originally Posted by churchy
it's better use a good fan controller to varies the speed
wizard1238: better, right. But molex 7V mod is cheapest of them all. Nice for price/performancy builds. And to regulate DDC from controller controller must handle relatively lot of power per channel.