8800GT voltage mods

gOJDO,
If your Asus G92GTS has the same PCB as in Demo's pic then it works your card too.
My Asus G92GTS 512MB is reference board so it wouldn't work on mine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

Heinzkopf,
That's perfectly normal, those components are mosfets that convert vGPU and vMEM voltages so it's normal they get hot especially when voltmodded and overclocked. All you can do is sink 'n' fan 'em.

The buzzing sound gets the stronger the higher your card OCs. Most likely it's caused by the encased vGPU inductors (big block-like components) on the frontside of the card. It's not dangerous at all.

---

Hmm okay that sounds appeasing to me.

But i'm still searching for a safe VGPU for permanent operation.

What max. IDLE Voltage would you (and of course also other members) personally choose without extra heatsink and cooling of the card's backside?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

gOJDO,
If your Asus G92GTS has the same PCB as in Demo's pic then it works your card too.
My Asus G92GTS 512MB is reference board so it wouldn't work on mine.

---

Mine is reference board too. So, no vGPU pencil mod for us? :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Heinzkopf

Hmm okay that sounds appeasing to me.

But i'm still searching for a safe VGPU for permanent operation.

What max. IDLE Voltage would you (and of course also other members) personally choose without extra heatsink and cooling of the card's backside?

---

RAM sinks are ~$1/each. To me a few dollars spent to maintain some level of safety while improving clocks 15+% is money well spent.

I wouldn't go any higher than where you are w/o some sinks on there. The equivalent components on the reference design are cooled by the stock cooler. If nVidia thinks they should be cooled at stock voltage then don't you think they especially need to be cooled when volt-modding?

http://pix.nofrag.com/a/0/0/363d2211...f42a7162tt.jpg

I have find it for U :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jason4207

RAM sinks are ~$1/each. To me a few dollars spent to maintain some level of safety while improving clocks 15+% is money well spent.

I wouldn't go any higher than where you are w/o some sinks on there. The equivalent components on the reference design are cooled by the stock cooler. If nVidia thinks they should be cooled at stock voltage then don't you think they especially need to be cooled when volt-modding?

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I have RAM heatsinks installed on my card. The RAM doesn't get hot anyway because I didn't increase the vDimm.
The stock cooler had just contact to GPU and RAM with pads. Other parts of the frontside weren't cooled by it. I just have a 120mm fan below the frontside at the bottom of my chase to blow cool air from outside onto the graphics card.
The back of the card gets really hot because here is no nearly no airflow. But these parts there had already no sinks installed with stock.
But you are right, maybe ill get some small sinks on the mosfets

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Heinzkopf

I have RAM heatsinks installed on my card. The RAM doesn't get hot anyway because I didn't increase the vDimm.
The stock cooler had just contact to GPU and RAM with pads. Other parts of the frontside weren't cooled by it. I just have a 120mm fan below the frontside at the bottom of my chase to blow cool air from outside onto the graphics card.
The back of the card gets really hot because here is no nearly no airflow. But these parts there had already no sinks installed with stock.
But you are right, maybe ill get some small sinks on the mosfets

---

When I said 'RAM sinks' I meant it generically. I used 'RAM' sinks on my MOSFETS, but I guess it would be better to just call them sinks.

You're right that the RAM doesn't really require sinks, b/c vdimm is low. However, the PCB will get hot, and through conduction heat up the RAM.

On the reference design the MOSFETS are on the other side of the board and are cooled by the stock HSF. Since you have a non-reference design you are going to have to adjust a little bit to compensate.

The entire PCB gets pretty hot when you start getting the volts/clocks up there so it is good to get sinks on anything you can...especially components that are hot enough to burn you. Also, rig up some fans or get a PCI fan card if at all possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jason4207

The entire PCB gets pretty hot when you start getting the volts/clocks up there so it is good to get sinks on anything you can...especially components that are hot enough to burn you. Also, rig up some fans or get a PCI fan card if at all possible.

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Yes that's true, the whole PCB gets really hot especially around the area of the mosfets. Well best solution was installing a fan that blows air to the backside of the card. But that is a bit dump to put the fan on it- and since I have a silent system another fan would increase the noise of the computer.
Well i'll try to improve the temperatures passivly by heatsinks first. that means sinks on mosfets and maybe the copper mounting holes.
Think that should be enough then.
With stock cooler the GPU reached 90°C as temperature by standard and so I think the card got even a bit hotter as now. additionally I think these mosfets are designed for high temperatures. But yes the ramchips may be the most sensitive parts on the card

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Heinzkopf

Yes that's true, the whole PCB gets really hot especially around the area of the mosfets. Well best solution was installing a fan that blows air to the backside of the card. But that is a bit dump to put the fan on it- and since I have a silent system another fan would increase the noise of the computer.
Well i'll try to improve the temperatures passivly by heatsinks first. that means sinks on mosfets and maybe the copper mounting holes.
Think that should be enough then.
With stock cooler the GPU reached 90°C as temperature by standard and so I think the card got even a bit hotter as now. additionally I think these mosfets are designed for high temperatures. But yes the ramchips may be the most sensitive parts on the card

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Silence and volt-modding don't really mix well, but you may be able to find a good balance.

I'm sure the MOSFETs are designed for higher temps, but I'm also sure they'll work better if you can keep them cooler. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jason4207

1.2k isn't too low, but there is no reason to go that low unless you are trying for some serious clocks w/ major voltage under DI/LN2. ~4k is better suited to air/water.

The guy that lost his card had removed an SMR. Thus removing the circuit that detects OCP, and also making it difficult for the card to balance the load b/n the MOSFETS. One MOSFET received too much current, and blew up!

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Renegade5399

And here's why. I am set for ~1.45v load. Every bench runs around that. Lightsmark will hit about 1.475v. But FUR on the other hand spikes the card over 1.52v. This is probably why people's cards are dieing. Mine is water cooled and never breaks 38°C loaded. I have sinks on everything the stock cooler touched, plus a couple other components I found to be hot.



I used 2.2k ohm 1/4 watt resistors from Radioshack. Soldered wire leads on them and soldered the leads to the surface mount caps on the board.

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Thx guys :)

I will try out with 1.2 K so the card can get some Dice :D

What should be the resistance between these two points (the blue ones)? I think maybe I messed this up, I have close to 16mil between these two points.

scottc19,
Resistance between the SMR you marked should be around 22Ω.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jason4207

Silence and volt-modding don't really mix well, but you may be able to find a good balance.

I'm sure the MOSFETs are designed for higher temps, but I'm also sure they'll work better if you can keep them cooler. ;)

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Yes u're right.
Now I installed some small heat sinks on the card, hope they help keeping it cooler.
http://www2.picfront.org/picture/pDK...mg/memsink.jpg

With them I think I can set the idle voltage to 1.2V and see what's max clock with it.

1100MHZ no V-Mod stable my card rocks !

XSS,
Samsung GDDR3, I presume?

Hey guys,

at first the pic:

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3307/vmodho1.jpg

this is my second try with the OCP mod all soldering points have contact but I think the mod didn't works.

First problem: Card clocks 770/1900/1030 without VMods but for a "little" more GPU Clock I need much more Voltage ( 1,45 V for 850/2200) I think that can not be normal

Second problem: more than 850 MHz isn't possible, not important what voltage I give

Third problem: 850/2200/1000 @ 1,45 V is stable in all Benches but AM3 fully runs and before the score is displayed the screen goes black and don't get back.


This sounds to me like a non working OCP mod :-( can someone help me?
I know that the memory clock is important to the Shader clock, so I test each Clock once.

Vmods for the new XFX8800GT alpha dog edition and the 8800GS:

http://www.techzine.nl/f/g/15255php4KGpRq.JPG

VGPU: 5K var. resistor.

VMEM: 15K var. resistor.

PWM used for GPU is BN-9G
PWM used for DDR is SC2621A

Kabauterman,
What is your vGPU after a crash/black screen?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

Kabauterman,
What is your vGPU after a crash/black screen?

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vGPU is the same as before 1.45V
I can not realize why only AM3 shows the Black screen and why it runs fine during the test.

Quote:

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vGPU is the same as before 1.45V

---

Then your problem has nothing to do with OCP. That leaves just the traditional "draw of luck" OC'ability of each chip.

yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay

i'm no longer a modding virgin :D

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/8872/74093771jp6.jpg
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/8671/90700767bf0.jpg
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/9914/59670254mz7.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/7089/81707078pc9.jpg
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/8424/73705103xy7.jpg
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/3996/86150137jz8.jpg
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/7053/85144981kw1.jpg
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/554/50497566aj9.jpg

If I can do it anyone can :rolleyes:

Good work Dino , now how well does it clock ?

Have you done the second card yet ??

:up:

gained 100MHz on core

still on stock cooling :D

haven't done the second card
my soldering iron isn't that great cause i had trouble soldering to ground points
just wouldn't stick :S

but i got it in the end

the read point was reading 1.988v LOL and then i checked it manually and found it was reading 1.111 ....that was a relief heh

Quote:

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gained 100MHz on core

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So what does that add up to ?

That vgpu point is damn tiny ey ? (in your third last pic)

:up:

to be honest that was the easiest one to solder

i am just quickly benching

did a 92K 3DMARK01
single card :o pretty good for card clocks and CPU at 5.1GHz :)

Looks good, though you used a lot of soldering tin. Not bad at all for a first-timer, though,, you'll get better :).

Soldering to ground points is always a bit harder than soldering to resistors. Did you have any problem soldering the wire to the trimmer? If not, your soldering iron is more than okay.

Nice work dinos ;) I'm also doing my first steps on Vmoding ... Just soldering at random difficult points ... victims : old, really old VGAs (Radeon 7500, SiS, GeForce 2 etc ... :D) ... hehe :ROTF:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massman

Looks good, though you used a lot of soldering tin. Not bad at all for a first-timer, though,, you'll get better :).

Soldering to ground points is always a bit harder than soldering to resistors. Did you have any problem soldering the wire to the trimmer? If not, your soldering iron is more than okay.

---

no probs with trimmer :)

second fastest 3DMARK01 run and not fully tweaked and only ran CL once too ;)


http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8...hze8500lp1.png

:D

I'm a total noob. I've already got a dead palit 8800gt and don't know what caused that. looks like fungus on one "chip". psu and MB DEAD TOO!
So guys which 8800gt should i buy as replacement? is there one that gives consistantly good/better results when o'volted on air?

also off topic: what is the case in pinto's avatar? like that lots

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OldChap

I'm a total noob. I've already got a dead palit 8800gt and don't know what caused that. looks like fungus on one "chip". psu and MB DEAD TOO!
So guys which 8800gt should i buy as replacement? is there one that gives consistantly good/better results when o'volted on air?

also off topic: what is the case in pinto's avatar? like that lots

---

Go with an 8800GTS-512 if you can afford it. There are lots of awesome deals on them nowadays.

Do you have pics of the 'fungus'?

no pics... ran out of ideas so took it to shop for diagnosis... clean now.
will start stripping tomorrow, keen to see state of Max Formula.

8800gts? any make in particular? or any to avoid? (thinking about make of memory etc.)

All reference design boards come from Foxconn anyway. Your pretty much just choosing which warranty you like best. I like eVGA, but I don't think it matters much. I've heard good things about BFG & XFX as well. All the newly produced cards have Samsung memory chips I think. Just hope you don't get old stock.

I don't have any experience w/ the non-reference designs, so i can't comment on that.

:eek:
Dino you soldered a vmod! Awesome work :up:


Also posting up my Gigabyte non-reference 8800GT mods as per a PM request:

Vgpu:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../88gtcore4.jpg

Vdimm:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...88gtvdimm3.jpg

Thanks for that oohms, looking to do this soon.

Just to clarify, I'll be soldering the 200K VR in parallel with whatever that the green line is pointing to, for vGPU control?
*edit* Whoops, read it says 'to ground'. My bad :P
To read vGPU I need to connect one probe from DMM to the thing the green line points to and one to vGPU reading point? Or is it from vGPU reading point to ground?

And I'll assume to read vDIMM, it will be the same as the method for reading vGPU

What do you guys use as a suitable ground to solder to?

Thanks in advance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DrMambo

Thanks for that oohms, looking to do this soon.

Just to clarify, I'll be soldering the 200K VR in parallel with whatever that the green line is pointing to, for vGPU control?
*edit* Whoops, read it says 'to ground'. My bad :P
To read vGPU I need to connect one probe from DMM to the thing the green line points to and one to vGPU reading point? Or is it from vGPU reading point to ground?

And I'll assume to read vDIMM, it will be the same as the method for reading vGPU

What do you guys use as a suitable ground to solder to?

Thanks in advance.

---

200kOhm to ground for the mod and vGPU reading to ground for the voltage reading! :up:

Hello guys,

Is there an mod for the Qimonda memory chips? And where can i find it?

Tnx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RobinL

Hello guys,

Is there an mod for the Qimonda memory chips? And where can i find it?

Tnx

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Quimonda ram doesn't OC very well unless you loosen the timings. Dont know what card you exactly have but this may help you!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RobinL

Hello guys,

Is there an mod for the Qimonda memory chips? And where can i find it?

Tnx

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There is a pot mode for the Quimonda chips to give less voltage as they seem to generally be more stable like that. It allows to gain ~50MHz. I don't have any link, search earlier in this thread ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RobinL

Is there an mod for the Qimonda memory chips? And where can i find it?

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If the reverse mod is what you're talking about, then go here.

:up: Thanks Oohms, possibility of retaining the top is still there.
GB non reference chill-time, if everything goes ok :D

Tnx Guys! For the good help. I can do 800Mhz or higher to the core, but memory is only 999mhz. But think the mem speed is to low. Because my benchmarks aren`t that high too. Cpu e8500 @ 4GHZ.

Im having HUGE performancde problems after doing the OCP mod.
Tried 3dmark01, 06 and ATI tools.

All points in the direction that I lost 50-75 % performance, CPU score is the same and system the same.
Temp is not an issue!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nosfer@tu

Im having HUGE performancde problems after doing the OCP mod.
Tried 3dmark01, 06 and ATI tools.

All points in the direction that I lost 50-75 % performance, CPU score is the same and system the same.
Temp is not an issue!

---

Is your link width still at x16?

Is there a way to raise voltage through bios or with a pencil mod for this card? I have a Zotac card, and dunno if it's reference pcb. :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Niccolò

Is there a way to raise voltage through bios or with a pencil mod for this card? I have a Zotac card, and dunno if it's reference pcb. :confused:

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All the topics has been discussed in this thread already! I suggest you read the entire thread! BIOS is goo until 1.1V I believe!

Hello,

I got my hands on an OEM Nvidia 8800GT, however it uses an ISL6568CRZ IC instead of the Primarion for GPU voltage regulation. :confused: The rest of the card is same as the reference. Here's a picture of the back of the card:
>> Image <<

Datasheet of the ic:
>> Download <<

I hope you guys can help me with a vgpu mod for this card. Currently running 700/1600/2000, stock voltages. :rolleyes: If you need me to measure something, let me know!

varga,
What is the stock vGPU of your card?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

varga,
What is the stock vGPU of your card?

---

I measured 1.108V on the pad marked C552.

Is there any known issue regarding Zotac 8800gt ? Cos no matter what bios i flash or what voltage i set, i can't get over 700mhz. Actually, max voltage i tested was 1.25v, but i think it's enough just to pass 700mhz, isn't it? This card is bothering me SOOO MUCH. Someone who has a zotac card could please upload his bios so i can give it a try (it's ok even if it's an AMP! version)? Thanks.
I won't loose hope :(

I know it has been a problem to overclock with vista x64 in sli as only one card will increase clocks w/riva tuner, has anyone got around this? gpu-z and everest read the clocks incorrectly of the second card, gpu-z reads 0clocks and everest reads them at half. My xp boot works great, but would like to oc my vistax64 now... THANKS

Niccolò,
Bios mod can not get you more than 1.10V. Hard mod is the only way.


varga,
This will get you to 1.325v.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

varga,
This will get you to 1.325v.

---

Thanks! I will try it out soon. If you feel like having too much spare time, you could send me a PM how did you figure that out, I am really looking forward to learn more about vmodding/electronics.

Greets!:up:

@LArgon:

Actually it can. I measured with my multimeter and it's 1.25v. Anyway it's not a problem for me to hardmod, but i won't do it as long i'm not sure it will work. Voltage it's enough to get over 700, but it doesn't work, so the problem it's not voltage. Anyway, looking at the picture you posted, voltage control of this card works like 7900 or 9600gt? Is there a code table and a bunch of bit you can short to get what voltage you need? That would be great, i dont' like putting trimmers on my boards..

Niccol&#242;
:eek:
You have a modded bios that goes >1.10V? That's certainly a huge breakthrough as people have been trying that for months and months without success. Btw, what version of Nibitor were you using to mod it?

Please post your bios that allows 1.25v. :)

And nope, there's no VID bits we could alter. Trimmer is the only way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

varga,
Nope, there's no VID bits we could alter. Trimmer is the only way.

---

Ah.. so it won't work? :confused: If you could confirm this I would be graceful, because I don't want to kill my card.

varga,
Oops. That quote wasn't intended for you but Niccol&#242;. The pic I posted regarding your card is valid.
The mod works by altering the VID-code bits found in the datasheet (page 12, table 2) - these bits dictate the base of the output voltage (vGPU). At stock your card has VID pin config VID4@1, VID3,2,1@0, VID0@1 = 1 0 0 0 1 = 1.125v. VID-pins are described on page 1. If we were to open (break) VID4 and close (connect) VID3 we get 0 1 0 0 1 = 1.325v.

But not all cards have such bits that can be altered. Such as reference design of 8800GT.

Been reading 95&#37; of this thread for the last days, i got 2 questions.

Is a 500 Ohm chiptrimpot going to work for vGPU? (don't know if "chiptrimpot" is any different from a VR pot). It's a 20 turn pot, can change the resistance from 0 Ohms up to 500 Ohms.
The pot i'm using is 5 x 5millimeters tiny btw. Heh.

Is there a +/- on the pot so that you have to solder one of the legs to ground and the other to the FB and not the other way around? I mean, does it work both ways or not?

Thanks!

Got a link to the "chip trimpot" you're talking about?

Anyways, it sounds like it would work fine. And these things have no polarity.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by largon

Niccol&#242;
:eek:
You have a modded bios that goes >1.10V? That's certainly a huge breakthrough as people have been trying that for months and months without success. Btw, what version of Nibitor were you using to mod it?

Please post your bios that allows 1.25v. :)

And nope, there's no VID bits we could alter. Trimmer is the only way.

---

Actually every bios i tryed allowed me to reach at least 1.2v. Version of nibitor is 3.9 (the last i think). Anyway this is my original bios, but as i said i can't get over 700mhz, and dont know if it's a bios issue or something else. I will probably try the hardmod but i don't see much use in it couse volts already are 1.25, and still useless.
http://rapidshare.com/files/105291734/Original.rom.html

Largon can you upload your bios too, so i can try it and see if it solve my problem?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by largon

varga,
Oops. That quote wasn't intended for you but Niccolò. The pic I posted regarding your card is valid.
The mod works by altering the VID-code bits found in the datasheet (page 12, table 2) - these bits dictate the base of the output voltage (vGPU). At stock your card has VID pin config VID4@1, VID3,2,1@0, VID0@1 = 1 0 0 0 1 = 1.125v. VID-pins are described on page 1. If we were to open (break) VID4 and close (connect) VID3 we get 0 1 0 0 1 = 1.325v.

But not all cards have such bits that can be altered. Such as reference design of 8800GT.

---

Thanks for the explanation. Just one more question: why dont they simply short the gates instead of soldering an smd resistor(?) there? :confused:

Niccol&#242;,
How did you mod your bios to 1.25v? I can't see any options >1.10v in Nibitor with the bios you linked.
I don't have a 8800GT (only GTS 512MB) so it wouldn't be of much use for you. ;)

Also, have you measured the voltage with a multimeter that it actually is 1.25v?

varga,
Yup, bridging the pads should work too. Moving the part can be easier to reverse, though. And it's tidier too. :D

Sorry, my fault, thought you wanted my card original bios :D This is the bios i'm using, it's an EVGA bios and it's set to 1,4v but really it give 1.25v-1.27v (guess this is the maximum for bios mod). Checked with multimeter of course.
http://rapidshare.com/files/105335152/evga14.rom.html

Anyway have you got a clue why a card wouldn't overclock? It seems like additional voltage does nothing at all! At stock it does 700mhz, with mod still 700mhz. If i go further 3d mark will crash, and crysis too. I checked with a damn multimeter and the volts are there, i can't understand this ******* card. I flashed the moon in there too, and still nothing. Could it be an overheating problem? The gpu is on WC, but the rest of the card is totally naked and no fan on it, but i don't think heat (and just on the pcb, couse gpu is fresh) is able to reduce this much you oc, is it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Niccol&#242;

Sorry, my fault, thought you wanted my card original bios :D This is the bios i'm using, it's an EVGA bios and it's set to 1,4v but really it give 1.25v-1.27v (guess this is the maximum for bios mod). Checked with multimeter of course.
http://rapidshare.com/files/105335152/evga14.rom.html

Anyway have you got a clue why a card wouldn't overclock? It seems like additional voltage does nothing at all! At stock it does 700mhz, with mod still 700mhz. If i go further 3d mark will crash, and crysis too. I checked with a damn multimeter and the volts are there, i can't understand this ******* card. I flashed the moon in there too, and still nothing. Could it be an overheating problem? The gpu is on WC, but the rest of the card is totally naked and no fan on it, but i don't think heat (and just on the pcb, couse gpu is fresh) is able to reduce this much you oc, is it?

---

What is your DMM reading when you use the stock BIOS?

I think your reading the voltage wrong, or your DMM is messed up. Which ground are you using? Try one on the gfx card PCB itself.

I think the fact that your not able to clock any higher means that your not actually increasing the voltage through the BIOS like you think you are.

No one else can change the voltage above 1.1v using the BIOS on a reference design, so I don't know how you would be able to. :confused:

...


Alright, I've checked out your BIOS, and you have done the same thing that many people tried a while back. You are changing the VID labels. This does not change the actual voltage. VID03 will always equal 1.1v even if you change the label to 1.4v. The label is for our reference. The gfx card could care less what we want to call it. All it sees is VID03, and it sets the voltage to a predetermined voltage based on that. To get any higher you would have to have a VID04. It is possible to add VID04, & VID05 to the BIOS (there's room in the code), but the card doesn't see anything above VID03 no matter what you do. [It's probably 2-bit, so it can only see 0-3.]

Most reference design cards come w/ VID02 set, and you can change that to VID03 to get an extra 0.05v, but that's it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jason4207

What is your DMM reading when you use the stock BIOS?

I think your reading the voltage wrong, or your DMM is messed up. Which ground are you using? Try one on the gfx card PCB itself.

I think the fact that your not able to clock any higher means that your not actually increasing the voltage through the BIOS like you think you are.

No one else can change the voltage above 1.1v using the BIOS on a reference design, so I don't know how you would be able to. :confused:

...


Alright, I've checked out your BIOS, and you have done the same thing that many people tried a while back. You are changing the VID labels. This does not change the actual voltage. VID03 will always equal 1.1v even if you change the label to 1.4v. The label is for our reference. The gfx card could care less what we want to call it. All it sees is VID03, and it sets the voltage to a predetermined voltage based on that. To get any higher you would have to have a VID04. It is possible to add VID04, & VID05 to the BIOS (there's room in the code), but the card doesn't see anything above VID03 no matter what you do. [It's probably 2-bit, so it can only see 0-3.]

Most reference design cards come w/ VID02 set, and you can change that to VID03 to get an extra 0.05v, but that's it.

---

Man, my DMM was messed up! Actually, i only had to change batteries to it :D That really makes me happy couse it means it's only a volts matter. Now it reads correctly and i have 1.03 idle and ONLY 1.06v load :shakes:
That's the explanation for my poor overclock. I'll be hardmodding as soon as i get a soldering gun, cos mine is more like a soldering cannon :cool:

I don't understand why a pencil mod is not possible. This mod is made on the FB pin, is it? Can't i reduce the resistance that's already there?

Niccol&#242;,
Pencil mod only works when a FB-to-GND resistance is measured in high kilo-ohms, this is because the pencil itself has high resistance. Resulting resistance drop will be miniscule if you add a 30kΩ resistor (= heavy pencil shade) parallel to a resistance of ~15Ω (FB-to-GND on 8800GT).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

varga,
Yup, bridging the pads should work too. Moving the part can be easier to reverse, though. And it's tidier too. :D

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I will probably move it instead of removing, but I'll have to wait for a new tip for my soldering iron.. :cool: Will post pictures later!

I'm sure that no one runs ~1.5v like I have been doing, but let me tell you that my card appears to degrading now... I haven't done all the testing to see what the lowest volts I can run stock at, but I'm pretty sure that I need more. I also think my cpu also might have issues, even though it passes 3+hours of prime,but I can't be for sure. Just something to keep in mind.

scottc19,
You running on watercooling or what?
What clocks @ 1.5v? Temps idle/load?

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Originally Posted by jason4207

Is your link width still at x16?

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No I dident check that.
But 75% Performance droop because of that shouldent happen.
And it was at settings where everything worked out fine erliger!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nosfer@tu

No I dident check that.
But 75% Performance droop because of that shouldent happen.
And it was at settings where everything worked out fine erliger!

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PCIe at x1 will do just what you described. I've seen it first hand on a P5B-Deluxe.

Some boards are finicky, and will go to x1 or x4 for no apparent reason.

I had problem with my 8800GT going into x4 or x1-mode, it happened to be that the 8800GT was malfunctioning and not the motherboard. And i don't know how/why it happens. Was a damn good OC-card :( Had it @ 748 / 1828 / 2206 without any vGPU/vMEM-mod... Now i can't hardly reach that with 1.25v on my current card.

hi guys, my card is a first revision 600/1500/900 with quimonda 1ns so I did the reverse mod but faced a weird problem. First I used Ati Tool Artifact Tester and from the default 1,988 vram (1,972@100K), I reached 1026@1,908 but when I tested the very same frequence with BOP 3dmark03, I had sudden artifacts again and again til I lowered vram to 1,845 to max out @990Mhz with relaxed timings...On the other hand I can pass 3dmark03-06 and Crysis benchmarks at 771/1944 (actual vgpu 1,15) but AtiTool doesn't like this at all beeping as soon as I launch it...So what test should I rely on? Why the results are so different? Thank you for patience and sorry for my errors as english is not my language.

thanks to all on this thread, hats off to all the people who put the time in to help others. never joined a forum but XS seems the place to be. with that out of the road i have a gainward bliss 8800gt 1024mb golden sample. i used a pic from this thread and did the VGPU mod, stock volts was 1.1 and now has no problem up to 1.5V, i havnt needed to go over 1.5V as my best performance is at 824 core / 1000 mem / 2071 shader at 1.3V, volts jump up to 1.4V during 3D'06 (all average readings as im using a needle meter) temps are in the low to mid 50's using ATI tool test (all stock cooling) i shall post some pics over the next few days. thanks again awsome thread :clap:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jason4207

PCIe at x1 will do just what you described. I've seen it first hand on a P5B-Deluxe.

Some boards are finicky, and will go to x1 or x4 for no apparent reason.

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HEHE damm, I unsoldered it because of that :)

I will try once more at some point.

hope this will help someone, awsome card for $350AUD its helped me push 16,009 on '06, all stock cooling, running 824/2071/1000 at 1.35v stable on ati for over 5 hours @ 53degCAttachment 76749

Attachment 76750

Attachment 76751

sorry, my first time posting pics, i will reduce em next time:shrug:

The red molex gives a nice touch.
:)

Too bad VR's don't come in multiple colors.
:p:

Yea, the red molex connector is sweet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

The red molex gives a nice touch.
:)

Too bad VR's don't come in multiple colors.
:p:

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spray paint?:rolleyes: ;) :D

so whats the deal with the 881mhz lock in riva tuner? my friend says his wont go passed 881mhz even when he sets it to 975mhz. still says 881..

Up the shader clock more, and you'll be able to raise the core higher.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

The red molex gives a nice touch.
:)

Too bad VR's don't come in multiple colors.
:p:

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psu is blue with blue cables and red molex, wots left of the original case is red so it all ties in nice :)

wow guys

i just slapped some watercooling on one of my 8800GT cards and modded vcore on this second card

i am going to be able to bench at 900MHz core :shocked: 2000MHz shader (probably a bit more on this one) and 1GHz RAM (still not modded)

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/664...orewatekv5.png

cooled by Corsair Nautilus 500 + DTEK GPU WB

:up:

it's a slow CPU but you can still see the power of this OC in nature ;)

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/1...orewatetg0.png

I bet you can get the shaders atleast a few hundred MHz higher.
;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

I bet you can get the shaders atleast a few hundred MHz higher.
;)

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nah it starts freaking out at 2100

Ohh nice... too bad I sold mine off too early :p:
You guys are having good fun with GT :up:

dinos22,
Weird, my GT benched happily at 2430MHz shaders but 900MHz core caused severe instability. Back then when it was alive that is.

Can someone tell me if the Zotac 8800GT AMP Edition uses the reference board design? If so I can just use the standard vgpu mod method to solder :)

If the card matches with the guide pic then it is.

Thanks largon. I'm thinking to switch over to a Zotac AMP edition.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aoch88

Can someone tell me if the Zotac 8800GT AMP Edition uses the reference board design? If so I can just use the standard vgpu mod method to solder :)

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I thought you had the Galaxy model? Did you get the vGPU mod to work on your card? :confused:

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Originally Posted by HitandRun

I thought you had the Galaxy model? Did you get the vGPU md t work on your card? :confused:

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I only had the vMem mod on my Galaxy and I was thinking to try the Zotac AMP Edition out plus the vGPU mod.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by largon

dinos22,
Weird, my GT benched happily at 2430MHz shaders but 900MHz core caused severe instability. Back then when it was alive that is.

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yeah i've noticed some GT cards scale really well but i am out of luck here
i wish i could get 24xx shader clocks as they certainly help in bench scores

man with better cooling you would probably crash 3000 shaders :eek:

I am gunna throw a D-TEK WB on my gainward 8800gt 1g golden sample in a few weeks, would anyone know of OVP and OCP mods for this card? i shall be more than happy to take more pics of it if needed. i am stoked with the stable 870/2175/1000 @ 1.5v but wot the hell , i may aswell see wot it can really do :)

Is this 500ohm vr acceptable to use for the vgpu mod?
http://www.newark.com/04F2159/passiv...ECTROL-070Y501

That would work but it's more expensive ($4.42) than the alternatives as it's rated to higher wattage (1W vs. 0.5W) - go with this ($1.45) or any of these ($1.90). You don't need 1W rating for vmods.

Thank you.

Can someone please repost the pics for the Vcore for the original Galaxy short card with the spiral cooler. All of the pics a re bandwidth exceeded.

the short galaxy has a jumper for 3 voltages no? 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 I believe.