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Thread: My cooling head

  1. #1
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    My cooling head

    Hello

    I almost finished the cooling system for my friend Szymek and i would like to share with you the way i made my cooling head.


    The first thing i made was cutting a piece of wood so it fits very nicelly to a P4/Opteron and drilling holes for the suction line and mounting holes. The piece of wood is 2cm thick and alone is a very good insulator, with a -40C evap touching it the surface is 18C with a 21C ambient, but that isnt enough...



    here you can see how well it fits a mounting bracket from a P4




    The next thing i did was drilling a hole on the corner opposite to the suction line so the poliurethane foram can be injected there. I dont have any nice pic of it but its vissible here (you can see a cable from a temp. probe going through there)



    As you can see the evaporator isnt mounted yet to the mounting piece. The interface material between the evaporator and wood was plastic, 2 pieces of a 8mm OD, 40mm long pipes made from a BIC pen (made prom polyethylene) beacause they were preety flexible. The glue i used was "super glue" (cyanoakrylate glue).

    The next thing i did (after the evaporator was glued ) was filling the chamber wich was created between the evaporator and mounting bracket. I used a 8mm hole in the top of the piece of wood for it, but before doing anything i putted the evap head in to some water, sticked the outlet of the can of poliurethane foam to the hole and sprayed some of it between the evaporator and bracket. This way i was sure there were no air gaps. Thanks to the fact the surface of the evaporator and wood were wet the poliurethane created smaller bubbles and was muich harder and stronger.



    A moment after i filled the sides of the head with poliurethane foam and let it expand to the sides. As you can see i covered the piece of styrofoam with "food foil" (like you pack your sandwiches with) so it wont stick to the styrofoam.

    After the whole assembly dried i decided its time to cut the foam to its shape.

    Some pics:





    As you can see on the last pic the system was used before taking it, the shape you see is some arctic silver ceramique, a P4 wich was sitting there and some frost (no seal was used)

    And now, the final part, the seal. Its made of a 19mm thick piece of neoprene, cutted a lil so its thinner (~13mm):





    The back side of the mother board is insulated using a piece of neoprene (19mm thick) attached with a piece of wood.

    The head isnt finished yet, it needs some finishing touches but even now it works beautifully. No heaters are used and with a -41C evaporator no cold can be felt. The total thickness is 2-3cm on the sides and 8mm on top + 20mm of wood

    I think i will use the same type of insulation in my cascade wich is about to be finished

    berkut

  2. #2
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    damn that took a while for the pics to load...also most of them are red x's! looks good thus far berk!
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    they should work :\

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    It took me forever to load the pics, they all work, and worth the wait. Good job.

    I'll bet he gets really good CPU temps with all that insulation.
    Last edited by Gary Lloyd; 02-05-2004 at 12:52 PM.


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  5. #5
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    ya they work...is this the vapor system u have been working on for a few months?
    In the works... P5wdh | E6600 | G-skill 6400 hz | Ocz Gamextreme 700w | 2x Wd 250 raid-0 | 7600gs until i get my x1950pro
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  6. #6
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    No, ive been working on it for my friend, mine is still being made

    And Gary - yes, i have some preety nasty temps, i still have to vacuum it properly and calibrate the charge.

    I have some problems with the condenser being too big but im working on it

  7. #7
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    nice work berkut.

    I dunno if you have tried this but I gave it a go the last time I used the expanding foam to insulate a block and it turn out very well.

    In the pic where you have everything mounted onto the styrofoam, before you put everything on the sheet of styrofoam, cover the styrofoam with a sheet of wax paper (with the wax side up of course), then lay on the expanding foam as usual.

    after the foam was nice and dry on mine, I pulled off the wax paper and the insulation around the evap baseplate was so smooth that it almost looked like injection molded plastic.
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  8. #8
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    Took a while to load but looks nice.

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  9. #9
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    In the pic where you have everything mounted onto the styrofoam, before you put everything on the sheet of styrofoam, cover the styrofoam with a sheet of wax paper (with the wax side up of course), then lay on the expanding foam as usual.
    A moment after i filled the sides of the head with poliurethane foam and let it expand to the sides. As you can see i covered the piece of styrofoam with "food foil" (like you pack your sandwiches with) so it wont stick to the styrofoam.
    We all use the same tricks

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    Nice job!

  11. #11
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    I sitll don't get why wood.

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  12. #12
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    I wud of used plexi instead of wood ...if it were mine. but since its not urs either
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  13. #13
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    I think its because wood is cheaper and easier to work with than plexi.

  14. #14
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    And its simply better ... Right now im finishing my I stage.... but as always i have a god damn problem...

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    Welcome to the wonderful world of refrigeration. One god damn problem after another is what we do all day every day.


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  16. #16
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    Welcome to the wonderful world of refrigeration. One god damn problem after another is what we do all day every day.
    You should know better than anyone how many problems i had.... I wish THIS time it will work and there wont be any GOD DAMN LEAK..... i would rather like to see the system blow up than have a knother f*** leak...

  17. #17
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    Originally posted by berkut
    We all use the same tricks
    I can't believe I missed that on the 1st read thru....I must have been distracted by the massive pics.

    that trick works great with the expanding foam. there is another one that I have tried that also works fairly well....clamp the evap to a piece of 1/4" thick plexi but before clamping it down, add a decent layer of car wax to the surface of the plexi and then lightly buff off the residue. that will produce a super smooth finish on the bottom of the foam as well.

    as for the leaks, I cheat on that one - I braze up every fricken part I can get a torch upon.

    flare fittings? screw em down and braze those bastages. lol
    Last edited by Weapon; 02-07-2004 at 12:40 PM.
    Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
    go to sleep
    go to sleep
    go back to sleep.

    carpe noctem.

  18. #18
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    My school ;]

    I also dont like any fittings but in the cascade ill have 1 banjo joint and 1 joint made on a O-ring :\

  19. #19
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    Originally posted by berkut
    You should know better than anyone how many problems i had.... I wish THIS time it will work and there wont be any GOD DAMN LEAK..... i would rather like to see the system blow up than have a knother f*** leak...
    My gpu cascade was giving me a head ache. Leaked most of the gas out even after a 250 micron vacume . Well at first I thought the schrade valve blew but I then removed all the insulation and found oil sign on a piece of pipe. I am now on a vacume and will test in near future... And 1 gdp after another... If not for the problems us reefer techs would go broke but as it is we can't sleep either.

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