Frozen SS

[Fhqwhgads6680]

Wow kayl that thing is looking awesome..I love those condensers, they are by far the beefiest mini-condensers I have ever seen! Just curious, but why ya routing the suction line through the back? Keep up the awesome work can't wait till its finished!

Brandon

[aussie_guy00000]

thanxs aussie_guy00000 , i think ill be emailing ya again this week with some more measurements and changes ready for the next cases. I think i am going to have threaded studds added, save me tapping hundreds of holes.
With the r507 compressor I though I would treat eva2000 for waiting so long, he deserves it hey.
Will bring alot of attention to i4memory.com for sure. cant wait.

Why bother putting screws/bolts in them, just use rivets, if you're worried about being able to take it apart again, it's a lot quicker to drill out the rivets then it is to unscrew all those bolts, just make sure you have the right size drill bit. Been doing it for years with coldrooms, and as long as you have the right bit and don't go crazy drilling it out, you can put it together and pull it apart heaps of times. Not to mention rivets cost almost nothing, well cheaper then little bolts anyway. Cheers

[Swinghammer]

Looking forward to see the finished product with some fancy grills and lights. thought of a logo yet kayl

[jinu117]

Uhmmm Uhmmmm damn someone has patient for threading all those holes?!!!!
Was it really necessary to have that many holes? Looking forward to end product none the less As for riveting... well it does work quite good and I do love using it myself too. But cleaning aftermass could be.... well... not fun.
Thought about using nut rivets instead on your unit? Those works great as if you mass up the thread, just replace it and you are done.

[kayl]

Wow kayl that thing is looking awesome..I love those condensers, they are by far the beefiest mini-condensers I have ever seen! Just curious, but why ya routing the suction line through the back? Keep up the awesome work can't wait till its finished!

Brandon

Thanxs, yeah it’s a pitty the 6 row condensers are no longer around. I went for the suction line through the back of the case, so that I could take the hood of the case if need to change a fan, or replace battery in temp display or something, just seemed easier at the time to have it that way. This unit will never see a tower case.
I would suspect that when eva2000 gets this thing hes never gonna turn it off with all the ram testing he does. 24-48hrs, he loves ram hence his forum name (i4memory)
With the next cases I will have the suction line leave the top of the case though.

Why bother putting screws/bolts in them, just use rivets, if you're worried about being able to take it apart again, it's a lot quicker to drill out the rivets then it is to unscrew all those bolts, just make sure you have the right size drill bit. Been doing it for years with coldrooms, and as long as you have the right bit and don't go crazy drilling it out, you can put it together and pull it apart heaps of times. Not to mention rivets cost almost nothing, well cheaper then little bolts anyway. Cheers

I was going to use rivets (the real large ones) as they would look sweet. No offence to eva2000, but from what I know he doesnt own a drill and rivet gun, and the though of metal shaving on electronics would stress.
For future cases (like in the email I posted ya) im having threaded studs installed when box is made to save a hell of a lot of time. Also bolts will pass through the side of the case instead of through the ends.

Looking forward to see the finished product with some fancy grills and lights. thought of a logo yet kayl

Havnt though of a logo yet, just the name Frozen SS for now.
Next im gonna have to find someone that’s good with graphics. I think the fancy stuff will go very nice in your TIchi case Simon.

Uhmmm Uhmmmm damn someone has patient for threading all those holes?!!!!
Was it really necessary to have that many holes? Looking forward to end product none the less As for riveting... well it does work quite good and I do love using it myself too. But cleaning aftermass could be.... well... not fun.
Thought about using nut rivets instead on your unit? Those works great as if you mass up the thread, just replace it and you are done.

Yeah taping those holes did take a few hours, its been so many years since I have done that sort of metal work (high school) forgotten just how much time and effort it takes.
I think I had about double the holes I would of needed, just stressing that the case will be crushed in transit, heard so many bad stories here at XS about posting stuff.

What are nut rivets??

[wdrzal]

hey kayl I just seen your post where you where going to get 10 cases, did you ever consider buying a box and pan brake and a shear??? a import 48" brake is around 400.00 and a 52"shear 900.00 usa dolllars but you should do a lot better if you by used especially the shear. metal is cheap ,even if you buy new after 15 or 20 cases its paid for then its about 90% profit (labor) for every thing after.

[Levish]

something like this riveted to the bottom is what I was thinking for the shipping weight concious

[eva2000]

yeah i dont own a rivet gun... so screws would be best for me..

Can't wait to get this baby - literally it will be placed in the center of my room for benching

[jinu117]

Nut Rivets are just like rivet in applying (well kind of). Instead of blind rivet (which we call rivets), this things goes in with threads inside. In fact, many computer cases have these type of rivets in there for screw mounting places. Basically saves your time putting the threading in as well as if the thread gets damaged, you just drill old one out, put new one in, and your done.
Search "rivet nut" under google and it will show you very good idea.

[wdrzal]

Those are a little on the expensive side and require special tool to install.but a real good option. another option is body clips ,you drill a hole and they slide on, no tool required.

just use self threading hex head screws.(I like the hex heads with screwdiver slot also) while you need a driver to install the first time after that thet can be put in and out with a screwdriver. there are basicly 2 types: a ZIP point (just a sharp point to start hole generaly work well in up to 20 gage steel.(#10,#12,#14 screw size) and Drill point ,any gage but a little more expensive than zip point.(these are great for larger diameter sizes) (#10 and larger) note a drill/driver should be used (has adjustable torque settings) with a magnetic hex bit.

tip: if your not used to using these center punching will help with accurate placement but not needed. also the shorter lenghts are easier to use. get 1/2"

[kayl]

Thanxs for that Levish, I understand now what ya talking about. Yes that would greatly increase the base strength.

yeah i dont own a rivet gun... so screws would be best for me..
Can't wait to get this baby - literally it will be placed in the center of my room for benching

I cant wait to see the benches eva2000

Nut Rivets are just like rivet in applying (well kind of). Instead of blind rivet (which we call rivets), this things goes in with threads inside. In fact, many computer cases have these type of rivets in there for screw mounting places. Basically saves your time putting the threading in as well as if the thread gets damaged, you just drill old one out, put new one in, and your done.
Search "rivet nut" under google and it will show you very good idea.

Im pretty sure that’s what they are hey. I haven’t actually seen what they are, just the metal shop described them to me. They said $5 and we’ll add them for ya.
Just got to put them on the drawing which is the hard bit.

Those are a little on the expensive side and require special tool to install.but a real good option. another option is body clips ,you drill a hole and they slide on, no tool required.

just use self threading hex head screws.(I like the hex heads with screwdiver slot also) while you need a driver to install the first time after that thet can be put in and out with a screwdriver. there are basicly 2 types: a ZIP point (just a sharp point to start hole generaly work well in up to 20 gage steel.(#10,#12,#14 screw size) and Drill point ,any gage but a little more expensive than zip point.(these are great for larger diameter sizes) (#10 and larger) note a drill/driver should be used (has adjustable torque settings) with a magnetic hex bit.

tip: if your not used to using these center punching will help with accurate placement but not needed. also the shorter lengths are easier to use. get 1/2"

I asked the wife the other day if she wanted her own shed. “NO we already have a shed. “ So for now im full hey, no where to keep anymore stuff.

[kayl]

its all brazed insulated and 80% wired. now just got to get the gas

[Carlz0r]

Pictures are dead.

[kayl]

Pictures are dead.

i have upload space isues here, so its linked from another forum until i get it sorted. been talking with fugger about it.

[kayl]

Its all fished now, just trying to get some r404a or r507 refrigerant now to charge it ready for benching/tunning

[the_new_guy]

look really good!!

no froster?

[kayl]

look really good!!

no froster?

not this unit, i got one for the next unit, but i have to finish this one first.

[ICE COOL]

nice unit, but why use every one so big condensor for one compressor.
maybe can you give me the answer.

ICE COOL

[kayl]

nice unit, but why use every one so big condensor for one compressor.
maybe can you give me the answer.

ICE COOL

Yeah they are quiet big arnt they. I bought a bunch of these of chill1 condensers ages back when he was selling this type. Still got a few of them left though. Once i run out ill be looking at getting smaller ones. Even the vapo ones are plenty big with a desupaheater. I would say that the desupaheater isnt need either in this system but looks good

[aussie_guy00000]

Hey Kayl, if you're still having trouble hosting your pics gis a yell and I could whack them on my webspce if you like

[kayl]

Hey Kayl, if you're still having trouble hosting your pics gis a yell and I could whack them on my webspce if you like

ya got pm.


for now im just checking that at low temps its close to k-type standard.
I use to make electronic instruments as a technician.
We did 50c and 0c pot tweaks to fit a linear curve.


I managed to take the little SS to get charged today with r404a. Little overcharged and tunning on the fly as i post.
Not too loud (system), lot of suction through that front window that 105CFM fan is doing nicly at the front. Just need the back grill and its ready.

[Fhqwhgads6680]

Wow Kayl! That thing turned out SEXY!! awesome work! I am guess this will be the first of many eh!

Brandon J

[krullet]

that machine is so hot

[LukeXE]

Very nice work Kayl, as always

[bh2k]

ya got pm.


for now im just checking that at low temps its close to k-type standard.
I use to make electronic instruments as a technician.
We did 50c and 0c pot tweaks to fit a linear curve.


I managed to take the little SS to get charged today with r404a. Little overcharged and tunning on the fly as i post.
Not too loud (system), lot of suction through that front window that 105CFM fan is doing nicly at the front. Just need the back grill and its ready.

Love the pic of the pic of the computer on top of the computer on your bottom screen.